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SOURCE  OF  THE  JORDAN. 


NARRATIVE 


OF  THE 

UNITED  STATES’  EXPEDITION 

t  o 

THE  RIVER  JORDAN 


AND  THE 


DEAD  SEA, 

B  Y 

W.  F.  LYNCH,  U.  S.  N., 

COMMANDER  OF  THE  EXPEDITION, 


WITH 

MAPS  AND  NUMEROUS  ILLUSTRATIONS 


SIXTH  EDITION,  REVISED. 


PHILADELPHIA: 

LEA  AND  BLANCHARD, 

1849. 


Entered,  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1849,  by 
LEA  &  BLANCHARD, 

in  the  Clerk’s  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States,  for  the  Eastern 

District  of  Pennsylvania. 


STEREOTYPED  BY  J.  FAGAN, 

PRINTED  BY  T.  K.  AND  P.  G.  COLLINS. 


(2) 


^jiis  Jfunatm 


is 

RESPECTFULLY  DEDICATED 

TO 

JOHN  Y.  MASON, 

EX-SECRETARY  OF  THE  NAVY, 

AS 

A  SLIGHT  TRIBUTE  TO  HIS  PRIVATE  WORTH 

AND  PUBLIC  EXCELLENCE. 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2019  with  funding  from 
Princeton  Theological  Seminary  Library 


https://archive.org/details/narrativeofuniteOOIync_O 


PREFACE. 


The  object  of  the  Expedition,  the  narrative  of  which 
is  here  presented,  was  unknown  to  the  public,  until  a 
very  short  time  prior  to  its  departure  from  the  United 
States,  when  the  indications  were  such  as  to  induce  me 
to  apprehend  that  it  was  not  appreciated.  Nevertheless, 
I  had  an  abiding  faith  in  the  ultimate  issue,  which 
cheered  me  on ;  for  I  felt  that  a  liberal  and  enlightened 
community  would  not  long  condemn  an  attempt  to 
explore  a  distant  river,  and  its  wondrous  reservoir, — the 
first,  teeming  with  sacred  associations,  and  the  last, 
enveloped  in  a  mystery,  which  had  defied  all  previous 
attempts  to  penetrate  it. 

As  soon  as  possible  after  our  return,  I  handed  in  my 
official  report,  and,  at  the  same  time,  asked  permission  to 
publish  a  narrative  or  diary,  of  course  embracing  much, 
necessarily  elicited  by  visiting  such  interesting  scenes, 
that  would  be  unfit  for  an  official  paper.  To  this  appli¬ 
cation,  I  was  induced  by  hearing  of  the  proposed  pub¬ 
lication  of  a  Narrative  of  the  Expedition,  said  to  be  by 
a  member  of  the  party.  The  permission  asked,  was 

(  V  ) 


VI 


PREFACE. 


granted  by  the  Hon.  J.  Y.  Mason,  Secretary  of  the  Navy, 
with  the  remark,  “I  give  this  assent  with  the  more 
pleasure,  because  I  do  not  think  that  you  should  be 
anticipated  by  any  other,  who  had  not  the  responsibility 
of  the  enterprise.” 

Feeling  that  what  may  be  said  on  the  subject  had 
better  be  rendered  imperfectly  by  myself  than  by 
another,  I  have  been  necessarily  hurried ;  and  the  reader 
will  decide  whether  the  narrative  which  follows  was 
elaborately  prepared,  or  written  “currente  calamo.” 

To  E.  Robinson,  D.  D.,  of  the  Union  Theological  Semi¬ 
nary,  New  York,  I  was  indebted  for  letters  to  his  friends 
in  Beirut,  and  for  much  information  furnished  from  his 
copious  store.  I  have  also  to  thank  Professor  Haldeman, 
of  Columbia,  Pa.,  for  some  valuable  suggestions,  which  I 
adopted. 

To  Mr.  Stephens,  of  New  York,  the  author  of  one 
of  the  most  interesting  books  of  travels  which  our  lan¬ 
guage  can  produce,  I  return,  in  this  public  manner,  my 
acknowledgments  for  a  timely  letter,  written  when  the 
equipment  of  the  Expedition  was  under  consideration. 

While  I  am  responsible  for  everything  here  advanced, 
it  is  proper  to  say,  that  I  have  occasionally  used  the 
notes  of  other  members  of  the  Expedition ;  and  am 
particularly  indebted  to  Mr.  Bedlow,  who  accompanied 
the  land  party  down  the  valley  of  the  Jordan. 

The  drawings  are  by  Lieutenant  Dale  and  Passed- 
Midshipman  Aulick,  —  some  of  them  complete,  and  some 


PREFACE. 


•  • 
Yll 

outline  sketches.  To  Messrs.  Gilbert  and  Gihon,  of  this 
city,  who  undertook  the  illustrations,  I  am  indebted 
for  the  beautiful  wood-engravings  which  accompany  the 
volume.  They  are  all  true  to  nature ;  each  scene  was 
taken  upon  the  spot  it  was  intended  to  delineate,  and 
every  portrait  is  a  likeness. 

The  maps  were  prepared  by  Mr.  F.  D.  Stuart,  of 
Washington,  from  copies  furnished  by  Mr.  Aulick,  from 
the  labours  of  Mr.  Dale  and  himself. 

Through  fatigue,  privation  and  sickness,  the  officers 
and  men  of  the  Expedition  acquitted  themselves  man¬ 
fully;  and  the  only  drawback  to  our  grateful  recollec¬ 
tions  is,  that  one  who  shared  our  labours  has  not  been 
spared  to  participate  in  the  gratification  of  our  return. 
Lieutenant  Dale  was  an  able  and  accomplished  officer, 
and,  by  his  death,  the  profession  has  been  shorn  of  one 
of  its  proudest  ornaments.  His  wife  has  since  followed 
him  to  the  grave ;  but,  in  his  name,  he  has  left  a  rich 
inheritance  to  his  children. 

I  am  wholly  unskilled  in  author-craft,  and  have  sought 
rather  to  convey  correct  ideas,  than  to  mould  har¬ 
monious  sentences.  I  send  this  forth,  therefore,  in 
trepidation,  yet  with  a  confiding  trust  in  that  charitable 
construction  which  the  people  of  this  country  have  nevei 

denied  to  any  one  who  honestly  does  his  best. 

Philadelphia,  May,  1819. 

A  new  edition  of  this  work  being  called  for,  the  author 
has  made  some  slight  changes,  and  corrected  several  errors 
that  were  discovered  in  the  first  impression. 

November,  1849. 


LIST 


OF  THE 

MEMBERS  OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 


W.  F.  Lynch,  Lieutenant-Commanding. 

John  B.  Dale,  Lieutenant. 

R.  Aulick,  Passed-Midshipman. 

Francis  E.  Lynch,  Charge  of  Herbarium. 

Joseph  C.  Thomas,  Master’s  Mate. 

George  Overstock,  Seaman. 

Francis  Williams,  “ 

Charles  Homer,  “ 

Hugh  Read,  “ 

John  Robinson,  “ 

Gilbert  Lee,  “ 

George  Lockwood,  66 

Charles  Albertson,  “ 

Henry  Loveland,  “ 

Henry  Bedlow,  Esq.,  and  Henry  J.  Anderson,  M.  D., 
were  associated  with  the  Expedition  as  volunteers,  after 
its  original  organization, — the  first  at  Constantinople, 
and  the  other  at  Beirut.  More  zealous,  efficient,  and 

honourable  associates  could  not  have  been  desired. 
They  were  ever  in  the  right  place,  bearing  their  full 
share  of  watching  and  privation.  To  the  skill  of  Mr. 
Bedlow,  the  wounded  seaman  was  indebted  for  the  pre¬ 
servation  of  his  life ;  and  words  are  inadequate  to  express 
how  in  sickness,  forgetful  of  himself,  he  devoted  all  his 
efforts  to  the  relief  of  his  sick  companions. 

(viii) 


LIST  OF  ILLU STRATI 0 NS 


MAPS. 

Sketch-Map  of  the  River  Jordan . . - . To  face  page  13 

Sketch-Map  of  the  Dead  Sea . .... . . .  268 


PLATES. 

Source  of  the  Jordan . . .  Frontispiece. 

Camp  on  the  River  Belus  . . To  face  page  126 

jAkil  Aga . ........... .... . . .  128 

Sheri f  o f  JVIec ca.  . . . .« . . . . . .  .  . . . - . . . .... . « - . . . . . . . . . .  131 

Caravan  of  the  Expedition . .  146 

Tiberias . .  ... .  .... .  . .  . .  . . .  154 

Ruined  Bridge  of  Semakh...... . . . . .  176 

Jum’ah . . . . .  216 

View  on  the  Jordan . . . . . . . .  234 

Sherif  Masa;Dj  Emir  Nassir,  and  Beni  Sukr  Sheikh .  244 

Pilgrims  Bathing  in  the  Jordan . . . .  262 

Shore  of  the  Dead  Sea.. . .. . . . .  276 

Ain  Jidy . . . . . . .  290 

Pillar  of  Salt . . ... . . . . .  308 

A  Ta'amirah . ... . . .  314 

Mustafa  the  Cook. ........... ... . ... . . . .. «... .. . . .... . . .» . . . . « . .  318 

Masada . . . . . . . . . .  332 

Christian  Arabs  of  Kerak . . .  342 

Sheikh  of  Mezra’a . . . . .  346 


Wady  Mojeb . . . . . 


......... ...........  36  8 


Greek  Archbishop . 388 

T OM B  OF  ^ BSALOM  .......  398 

Garden  of  Gethsemane . 416 

Tombs  in  the  Valley  of  Jehoshaphat  . . . .  418 

Greek  Priest  at  Nazareth .  462 

Fountain  of  Nazareth . 464 

Great  Sheikh  of  the  ’Anazeh  Tribes .  494 

Baalbec . . 500 

a  (ix) 


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A.  •  . 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

INTRODUCTION. 

Page, 

Application  to  the  Navy  Department  —  Favourable  result — Vessel  desig¬ 
nated —  Preparations — Metallic  boats  —  Selection  of  men — Officers — 
Orders  for  departure  —  Instructions  for  the  Expedition  —  Detention  of 
the  ship  —  Time  employed  in  various  preparations  —  Water-bags  — 
Boats,  and  the  means  of  their  transportation .  13 

CHAPTER  II. 

FROM  NEW  YORK  TO  PORT  MAHON. 

Sail  from  New  York  —  Pleasing  anticipations — Currents  and  gales  —  The 
Azores — Trafalgar — Strait  of  Gibraltar — The  Mediterranean — St.  Roque 

—  Algesiras  —  View  of  Gibraltar  —  Aspect  of  the  town  —  Defences  — 

Character  of  the  population — Fort  St.  Philip — A  rash  vow — Retrospect 
—A  disappointment — Small-pox  on  board — Port  Mahon — Its  disadvan¬ 
tages — Balearic  Isles — Celtic  Ruins .  16 

CHAPTER  III. 

FROM  PORT  MAHON  TO  SMYRNA. 

Departure  from  Mahon  —  Arrival  at  Valetta  —  Pleasing  incident  —  Leave 
Malta  —  Enter  the  Egean  Sea — View  of  the  shores  of  Greece  —  Reflec¬ 
tions — Oriental  scenes  —  Smyrna  —  Turkish  women — Aspect  of  Smyrna 
— Turkish  cemeteries — Punishment  of  crime — Its  necessity — Revolting 
execution — Environs  of  Smyrna — Fertility  of  the  soil — An  excursion — 

A  Turkish  garden — Beautiful  scene — The  Jannissaries .  33 

CHAPTER  IV. 

FROM  SMYRNA  TO  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Embarkation  for  Constantinople  —  Motley  group  —  Morning  devotions  — 
Shores  of  Greece  —  The  Hellespont  —  Classic  associations  —  Sestos  — 

A  fop  on  board  —  A  Turkish  efiendi  —  Dardanelles — A  disappoint¬ 
ment —  Constantinople  —  Beautiful  scene  —  Tophana  —  Turkish  ladies 

—  Caiques  —  Harbour  of  Constantinople — Minarets — An  American  resi 

(xi) 


Xll 


CONTENTS. 


dent  —  Improvements  in  agriculture  —  Slavery  in  Turkey  —  The  Negro 
race  —  The  slave-market  —  Kind  reception  —  Excursion  up  the  Bos¬ 
phorus —  Scenery — The  Black  Sea  —  Tomb  of  Joshua — Superstition — 
Magnificent  view — Probability  of  invasion  by  Russia — Servile  condition 
of  the  Turkish  women  —  Blessings  of  Christianity .  48 

CHAPTER  Y. 

CONSTANTINOPLE,  AND  VOYAGE  TO  SYRIA. 

Visit  to  the  Sultan  —  Pipes  and  coffee  —  Disputed  point  of  etiquette — Ser¬ 
vility  of  the  officers — Presence  of  the  Sultan — Sad  reflections — Offer  of 
a  present — The  American  minister — Visit  to  the  mosques — The  Hippo¬ 
drome —  Call  of  the  Muezzins  —  Tomb  of  Sultan  Mahmoud  —  Turkish 
reforms  —  Subterranean  cisterns  —  Bazaars  —  Bargaining  —  Women  in 
public  —  Visit  of  the  Sultan  to  the  mosque  —  His  appearance  —  The 
barracks  —  The  seraglio  —  Hall  of  ambassadors  —  Armory  —  Stables  — 
Cemeteries — Variety  of  costumes — Environs  of  the  city — Excursion  up 
the  Bosphorus  —  Barbarossa’s  tomb  —  Cemetery  of  Scutari  —  Dancing 
dervishes — Necessity  of  religion — St.  Stefano — Visit  Dr.  Davis — Village 
dignitaries — Receive  our  firman  —  Embarkation  —  Rejoin  the  “Supply” 

—  Leave  Smyrna  —  Gale  —  Scio  —  Riding  on  a  rail  —  Ruins  of  Ephesus 

—  Ayasalouk  —  Church  of  St.  John  —  “Bishop’s  Palace”  —  The  river 
Meander — Visit  to  the  Governor — Visit  returned  —  Greek  fashionables 

—  Scala  Nuova — Patmos  —  Cos — Lunar  rainbow  —  Candia — Rhodes — 

Cyprus — Mountains  of  Lebanon .  71 

CHAPTER  VI. 

FROM  BEIRUT  TO  DEPARTURE  FROM  ST.  JEAN  D’ACRE. 

Beirut — Visit  to  the  Pasha — Preparations — Peculiar  costume — Departure 
— Sidon  and  Tyre — St.  Jean  d’Acre — Mount  Carmel — Dangerous  land¬ 
ing — Extensive  view — Convent  of  Mount  Carmel — Grotto  of  Elias — 
Boats  landed  and  tents  pitched — Thieving — First  night  ashore — Arab 
horses — Brook  Kishon — Akka — Visit  to  the  American  Consul — Appear¬ 
ance  of  the  town — A  drawback  to  personal  charms — Governor  of  Acre 
— A  conference — Difficulties — Arab  curiosity — Audience  at  the  palace 

—  Singular  mode  of  begging  —  ’Akil  Aga  —  Attempt  at  extortion  — 

Meeting  with  American  travellers — Exciting  reports  —  Deliberations — 
Troublesome  visitors  —  Etiquette  —  Sherif  of  Mecca — Camels  used  for 
draught — Delays — Beautiful  mirage — Letter  to  Dr.  Anderson .  114 

CHAPTER  VII. 

FROM  ST.  JEAN  D’ACRE  TO  DEPARTURE  FROM  THE  SEA  OF  GALILEE. 

Disappointments — Effrontery  of  Sa’id  Bey — Journey  continued — Plain  of 
Acre — Village  of  Abelin — Doubts  and  mistrust — Character  of  the  village 


CONTENTS. 


and  surrounding  country — Inhospitable  reception — Embarrassing  posi¬ 
tion — Relief — Arab  morals — An  escort — Blowing  Valley — Picturesque 
views — Khan  el  Dielil — Castle  of  Sefurieh — Nazareth— Reflections — 
Mode  of  dealing  among  the  Arabs — Equestrian  exercises — Difficulties 
of  the  road — Turan — Mount  Tabor — Meet  Dr.  Anderson — An  Arab 
Repast  — Music  —  Lubieh  —  Character  of  the  country  —  Magnificent 
scenery — The  Sea  of  Galilee — Thrilling  emotions — Safed — Joseph’s 
Well — Tiberias — Reception — Visits  from  and  to  the  Governor — Admin¬ 
istration  of  justice — Thraldom  of  the  Jews — Chapel  of  St.  Peter — Jewush 
Synagogues — Habits  and  costume  of  the  Jewish  females — Letters  from 
Jerusalem — Firman  from  the  Pasha — Express  from  Acre — Launch  of 
the  boats — Profound  emotion — Hot  baths — Ruins  of  Tiberias — Produc¬ 
tions  of  the  plain — Excursion  on  the  lake — Genesareth — Mejdel,  or 
Magdala — Fish — Discouraging  accounts  of  the  Jordan— Filthy  lodgings 
— Summary  dealings — Preparations  for  the  Expedition — Visit  from  an 
ogre  prince — Assignment  of  duties — Departure  of  the  land-party .  139 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

FROM  THE  SEA  OF  GALILEE  TO  THE  FALLS  OF  b!jk’AH. 

Departure  of  the  boats — Scenery  of  the  lake — Enter  the  Jordan — Mount 
Hermon — Bridge  of  Semakh — Dangerous  situation  of  the  boats — Cha¬ 
racter  of  the  country — Arab  hospitality — Formidable  rapids — Trouble¬ 
some  strangers — More  rapids — Village  of  Abeidiyeh — Falls  and  whirl¬ 
pool  of  Buk’ah — Ruins  of  Delhemiyeh — Rejoined  by  the  land-party — 
Predatory  habits  of  the  Bedawin — Account  furnished  by  the  land-party 
— Visit  from  Emir  Nasser — Preparations  for  further  progress — Night- 
encampment  . . .  171 

CHAPTER  IX. 

FROM  THE  FALLS  OF  BUK’aH  TO  THE  FOURTH  CAMPING-PLACE 

UPON  THE  JORDAN. 

Daybreak  excursion — Profusion  of  flowers — Gadara — Loss  of  a  boat — Pas¬ 
sage  of  the  cascades — Imprudence — Descent  of  the  fourth  rapid — the 
River  Yermak — View  from  a  hill-top — Another  frightful  rapid — Bridge 
of  the  Place  of  Meeting — Ruined  khan — Bedawin  encampment — Con¬ 
tinued  succession  of  rapids  —  Excessive  heat  —  A  noble  Arab  —  Ruins 
of  Gadara — Land  of  Issachar — Visit  of  Lieutenant  Dale  to  Muhammed 
Pasha — Preparations  for  defence — Perilous  situation  of  the  Fanny  Ma¬ 
son — Escape — Peculiar  formation  of  the  hills — Desert  silence — Principal 
productions — Change  of  climate  —  Arab  camp  —  Commotion  —  Extra¬ 
ordinary  windings  of  the  river  —  Starting  of  the  caravan — Desolate 
aspect  of  the  country — Heat  and  drought — A  relief — Arab  beauty — A 
pastoral  entertainment  —  A  Turkish  camp  —  An  unwelcome  escort  — 
Arab  tents — Voracity  of  the  Arabs — A  false  alarm 

1* 


186 


XIV 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  X. 

FROM  THE  FOURTH  CAMP  ON  THE  JORDAN  TO  THE  FORD  OF  SCKA. 

Start  anew— Wonder  of  the  barbarians — Windings — Rapid  current — Beau¬ 
tiful  scenery — Wild  beasts — Birds — Management  of  the  boats — Sand¬ 
banks  and  islands — Meeting  with  ’Akll — Perils  of  the  voyage — Change 
of  aspect  —  Eastern  Mountains  —  The  ogre  prince  and  his  tribe  —  Geo¬ 
logical  features  of  the  country  —  Prevailing  productions  —  Numerous 
islands  —  Fish  and  Birds  — Wild  Boars  —  Indications  of  ruins  —  Pre¬ 
cautions —  Dangers  of  navigation — Ruins  of  Succoth  —  True  character 
of  the  camel — Route  of  the  caravan — Fording  the  river — A  Floral  plain 
— Fresh  difficulties  and  dangers  of  the  river — Abundance  of  the  thistle 
— General  description  of  the  country — Ford  of  Scka — Alarming  intelli¬ 
gence —  Exciting  incident  —  Painful  desolation  —  Vegetation  on  the 
Jordan  —  The  zukkum  —  Botanical  specimens  —  Muhammedan  sects — 
Nocturnal  anxiety  —  Arab  fraternization  —  Description  of  the  river — 

An  Eastern  scene  —  Picturesque  view  —  Mournful  music  —  A  singular 
minstrel — The  Emir’s  love-song . . .  211 

CHAPTER  XI. 

FROM  FORD  OF  SCKA  TO  PILGRIM’S  FORD. 

Changes  in  the  vegetation  —  Suspicious  neighbourhood  —  Fresh  perils  — 
Roman  bridge — Arab  cookery — Mode  of  eating — Parting  with  the  Emir 
— Aspect  and  productions  of  the  banks — Singular  caverns — River  Jabok 
— Scripture  localities — An  alarm — A  present  received — More  rapids — 

Cold  —  A  night  voyage  —  Disagreeable  situation  —  El  Meshra’a —  A 
sacred  spot — Capture  of  a  camel — Gazelles — Jericho — Glimpse  of  the 
Dead  Sea  and  mountains  of  Moab — Pilgrim’s  Ford — False  alarm — Army 
of  pilgrims — Bathing  in  the  Jordan — Happy  meeting — Determination  to 
proceed — Letter  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy .  245 

CHAPTER  XII. 

FROM  PILGRIM’S  FORD  TO  FIRST  CAMP  ON  THE  DEAD  SEA. 

Further  progress  —  Character  of  the  river  —  Enter  the  Dead  Sea — Gale — 
Arab  tradition — Discouragements — Change  of  weather — Aspect  of  the 
shores — Night  upon  the  sea — Apprehensions — A  landing — Pleasing  in¬ 
cident —  Ancient  caverns  —  Fountain  of  the  Stride  —  Dismissal  of  our 
escort  —  Excursion  —  Painful  Desolation  —  Arab  honour  —  A  Bedawin 
feast — Leave-taking — Unwelcome  music — Arabs  at  prayer — Evidences 
of  animated  nature — Wretched  appearance  of  proffered  guides  — 
Anxiety  respecting  the  boats  —  Their  safe  return  —  Soundings  of  the 


CONTENTS. 


XV 


Dead  Sea  —  Brook  Kidron — Valley  of  Jehoshaphat — Cliff  or  Mukiitta— 
Aspect  of  the  shores  of  the  sea — Fresh-water  stream — Preparations  for 
moving  southward  . . . .  266 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

FROM  AIN  EL  FESHKHAH  TO  AIN  JIDY  (ENGADDl). 

Incidents  at  starting  —  Delightful  spot — Vegetable  products  —  Shooting  at 
ducks — Quiet  night  scene — Intelligence  from  Dr.  Anderson  —  Hills  and 
ravines  —  Ruins  —  Remarkable  caves — Wilderness  of  Engaddi — Disap¬ 
pointment — Fruits  and  flowers — Evidences  of  former  cultivation — Cav¬ 
ernous  mountain  —  Examination  of  the  boats  —  Barometrical  and  ther- 
mometrical  observations  —  Scruples  of  the  Arabs  in  regard  to  pork  — - 
Their  sobriety  —  Their  habits  of  pilfering  —  Singular  phenomenon — - 
Arabs’  opinion  of  the  cause  of  our  visit — Commerce — Anxiety  respect¬ 
ing  provisions — Observe  Easter  Sunday  —  Atmospheric  phenomena  — 
Wild  boars  brought  in  —  Inaccessible  caverns  —  A  welcome  arrival — 
Currents  in  the  Dead  Sea — Magnificent  sunset — An  Arab  dance — Kind¬ 
ness  of  Mr.  Finn,  the  British  Consul  —  An  unexpected  luxury  —  Illness 
of  a  seaman  —  Departure  for  the  peninsula  —  Orders  —  Result  of  sound¬ 
ings —  Description  of  the  Peninsula  —  Geological  formation — Total  ab¬ 
sence  of  vegetation  —  Bushes  incrusted  with  salt  —  The  River  Arnon  — 
Discouraging  information — Arab  improvisatore .  282 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

EXPEDITION  AROUND  THE  SOUTHERN  SEA. 

Start  upon  a  reconnoissance — The  escort  escorted  —  Currents  —  General 
observations — Cliff  of  Sebbeh — Ruined  fortification — Geological  forma¬ 
tion  of  the  western  shore — Locusts — Moses’  stone — Fears  and  anxieties 
of  the  Arabs — Ruins — Distressing  heat — A  sirocco — Search  for  the  ford 
— Landing  at  Usdum —  Salt  mountain  —  Pillar  of  salt  —  Bitter  melon — ■ 
Dismiss  the  Arabs  —  Muddy  shore  —  Heat  of  the  soil  —  Difficulties  in 
taking  observations — Complete  desolation  —  Lofty  hills  —  Remarkable 
phenomenon — Burning  hurricane — Ancient  mill-stone — Painful  effects 
of  the  sirocco — Apprehensions  of  the  Arabs — Physical  conformation  of 
the  tribes  —  Insupportable  heat  and  thirst  —  A  dreadful  night  —  Abate¬ 
ment  of  the  heat — An  alarm — A  menaced  attack — Zoar — Moab — Arabs’ 
ideas  respecting  the  boats — Verification  of  Scripture  narrative — Another 
sirocco — Scarcity  of  provisions — Usefulness  of  the  Arabs — Atmospheric 
refraction — Tendency  to  drowsiness — Return  to  Ain  Jidy — Intelligence 
from  home  —  European  news  —  Reflections  —  Dwellings  in  the  rock  — 
Egerian  fountain — Delicious  bath — Luxurious  repast — Singular  appear¬ 
ance  of  the  sea — Density  of  the  water — Experiments — Opinion  of  Galen 
— The  osher,  or  apple  of  Sodom — Character  of  the  north  winds .  301 


/ 


Xvi  '  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTEK  XV. 

EXCURSION  TO  MASADA. 

Call  to  prayer  —  Party  despatched  to  Masada- — Firing  of  minute-guns  in 
honour  of  Ex-President  Adams — Remarkable  changes  in  the  aspect  of 
the  sea  —  Mode  of  reaping  and  threshing  among  the  Arabs  — Their  hu¬ 
manity  to  animals  —  Singular  illusion  —  Dangerous  route  —  Ruins  of 
Masada . . .  328 


CHAPTER  XYI. 

FROM  CAMP  TO  THE  CAPITAL  OF  MOAB. 

The  day  of  rest— Effects  of  the  climate  upon  health — Heat  and  desolation 
—  Irresistible  drowsiness  —  Painful  forebodings  —  Battle  between  two 
parties  of  Arabs  —  Friendly  invitation  from  the  sheikh  Abd  Allah  — 
Benefits  of  bathing — Luxuriant  vegetation— An  Arab  present — The  fel- 
lahin  tribes — Mezra’a — Christian  Arabs — Mode  of  salutation — Interest¬ 
ing  incident  —  Meteors  —  Damages  to  the  boats — Preparation  of  speci¬ 
mens — Wild  boar  killed  — Density  of  the  water  in  the  bay — Generous 
conduct  of  the  Arabs  —  Zoar — Ancient  ruins  —  Muslim  and  Christian 
sheikhs — Letter  from  Akil — Curiosity  and  superstition  of  the  Arabs — 
Songs  of  welcome  and  war-cries — Fears  of  treachery — Preparations  for 
defence — Inland  excursion — Ancient  fortification— Stupendous  view — 
Appalling  storm  —  Wild  character  of  the  scenery  —  Inexpertness  of  the 
Arab  marksmen  —  Symptoms  of  cultivation  —  Entrance  into  Kerak  — 
Filth  and  discomfort  of  the  dwellings — Annoying  curiosity — A  Christian 
priest  and  chapel — Magnificence  of  the  castle — The  cemetery — Ambi¬ 
tious  views  of  Akil  —  Discontent  of  the  Muslim  sheikh  —  Reasons  for 
distrust  —  Oppression  of  the  Christians  of  Kerak  — Their  appeal  to  the 
Christians  of  America — Nocturnal  pleasures — Departure  from  Kerak — 
Insolence  of  the  Arabs —  Precautions  —  Muhammed  made  prisoner  — 
Arrival  at  the  beach — Letter  to  Akil — Extortion  practised  upon  former 
travellers — Release  of  Muhammed — Embarkation .  335 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

CRUISE  ALONG  THE  ARABIAN  SHORE. 

The  river  Arnon  —  Lofty  cliffs  —  Singular  ravine  —  Fears  of  sickness  — 
Sketch  of  the  shores — Hot  springs  of  Callirohoe — Delightful  contrast — 
Privation  and  discontent — Reflections .  367 


* 


m- 


CONTENTS.  xyii 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

|r 

FROM  THE  OUTLET  OF  THE  HOT  SPRINGS  OF  CALLIROHOE  TO 

AIN  TURABEH. 

Changes  of  temperature  < — Disappointment — Machasrus — Deep  soundings 
— Arrival  at  Ain  Turabeh — Return  to  the  tents — Preparation  for  depar¬ 
ture — Intense  heat — Sirocco — The  bulbul — Increasing  heat — The  Ame¬ 
rican  flag  floating  over  the  sea  —  Analysis  of  the  water  —  Result  of  our 
labours — Hypotheses — Conviction  of  the  truth  of  the  Scripture  narrative 
— Our  last  night  on  the  Dead  Sea .  372 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

FROM  THE  DEAD  SEA  TO  THE  CONVENT  OF  MAR  SABA. 

Breaking  up  of  our  camp — Regrets  at  leaving — Incidents  of  the  journey — ■ 
Night  encampment — Sherif  tells  his  history — His  character — Indebted¬ 
ness  of  the  expedition  to  his  fidelity — Monks  of  Mar  Saba — Intelligence 
from  the  sick  seamen  —  Rapid  change  of  climate  —  Dreary  scenery  — 
Holy  associations — Specimens  forwarded — Painful  alternations  of  tem¬ 
perature  —  The  brook  Kedron  —  Convent  of  Mar  Saba  —  Plants  and 
flowers  —  The  hyssop  —  Thunder-storm  —  Accident  —  Sabbath  rest  — 

The  coney .  381 

CHAPTER  XX. 

FROM  MAR  SABA  TO  JERUSALEM. 

4rab  attendants  discharged — Labours  renewed — Rocky  cistern — The  vir¬ 
tue  of  necessity  —  Desolate  aspect  of  the  country — Fulfilment  of  pro¬ 
phecy — A  contrast — Painful  reflections — Arab  burial-ground — Tokens 
of  cultivation  —  Arab  encampment  —  Tobacco  —  Pilgrims’  road  —  The 
tribe  Subeih — Curiosity  of  the  people — Troublesome  interference — At¬ 
tempted  extortion  —  Pastoral  scene  —  Highly  cultivated  valley  —  Inse¬ 
curity  of  the  husbandman — An  Arab’s  love — Mode  of  courtship — Tales 
of  jealousy  and  revenge  —  First  view  of  Jerusalem  —  Impression  pro¬ 
duced —  Prominent  objects  —  Character  of  the  surrounding  country — 
Well  of  Job — Mount  of  offence — Pool  of  Siloam — Fountain  of  the  Virgin 
— Village  of  Siloam — Tombs  of  Absalom,  Zacharias,  and  Jehoshaphat — 
Garden  of  Gethsemane — Valley  of  the  Son  of  Hinnom — Traditionary 
spots  —  The  Aceldama — Garden  of  Urias  —  Mount  Zion — Hill  of  Evil 
Counsel  —  Tents  pitched — View  from  the  encampment — Night  under 
the  walls  of  Jerusalem . . .  389 


Xviii  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

JERUSALEM. 

Cold  morning  —  Levelling  proceeded  with  —  Turkish  military  review  — 
Tomb  of  the  Empress  Helena — Scenery  on  the  Jaffa  road — Convent  of 
the  Holy  Cross  —  Ludicrous  superstition  —  View  of  the  city  from  this 
point — Description — Habitations  of  the  lepers — Boats  sent  to  Jaffa — Re¬ 
creation — Dr.  Anderson  leaves  us — His  praiseworthy  conduct — Extract 
from  the  diary  of  one  of  the  officers — His  first  day  in  Jerusalem — Via 
Dolorosa — Threatened  attack — Mosque  of  Omar — Church  of  the  Holy 
Sepulchre — Motley  groups — Mendicity — Pious  zeal  of  the  pilgrims — 
Description  of  the  interior  of  the  Church  of  the  Sepulchre — Ascent  of 
the  Mount  of  Olives — View  from  the  summit — Visit  to  the  Garden  of 
Gethsemane — The  Golden  Gate — Fountain  of  the  Virgin — Armenian 
convent — Splendid  chapel  —  Character  of  the  visitors  to  Jerusalem  — 
Traditionary  fables — Sacred  localities,  their  claims  to  confidence — Re¬ 
flections — Skepticism  and  blind  credulity — Speculations  upon  the  future 
—  Scripture  predictions — Scientific  labours  continued  —  Description  of 
interesting  localities — Magnificent  view  from  the  Mount  of  Olives — A 
coxcomb  out  of  place — Kindness  of  the  British  Consul — Scanty  condi¬ 
tion  of  our  wardrobe  —  Expedients  —  Pool  of  Bethesda  —  Picturesque 
scene — Varieties  of  costume — Singular  marriage-procession — Pompous 
promenade  of  the  foreign  consuls — Walls  of  the  city— ^Muhammedan 
and  Christian  predictions — Visit  to  Bethlehem — Pool  of  Gihon — Well  of 
the  Magi — Plain  of  Rephaim — Convent  of  John  the  Baptist — Tomb  of 
Rachel  —  Wilderness  of  St.  John  —  Valley  of  Elah  —  David’s  Well  — 
Doubts  as  to  the  birth-place  of  the  Messiah — Calmet’s  views — Hill  of 
the  Annunciation — Ruth’s  gleaning-ground — Lovely  rural  view — Treat¬ 
ment  of  pilgrims  at  Jerusalem — Restrictions  upon  Christians — Products 
of  the  surrounding  country . 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

FROM  JERUSALEM  TO  JAFFA. 

Preparations  for  departure — Mizpeh — Affecting  incident — Luxuriant  vege¬ 
tation —  Bridge  of  the  Kulonieh  —  Picturesque  scene  —  A  cameleon 
caught — Restrictions  upon  the  Arab  tribes — Craft  met  by  craft — Acute¬ 
ness  of  hearing  of  the  Arabs — Peculiarities  in  their  physical  conforma¬ 
tion —  The  North  American  Indian  —  Results  of  education  —  The  Arab 
and  Indian  contrasted  —  Chateaubriand’s  opinion  —  Further  progress — 
Character  of  the  country — Scriptural  localities  —  Meeting  with  a  lady 
traveller — Execrable  nature  of  the  roads  and  accommodations — Kirjath- 
jearim  —  Attempt  to  stop  our  progress — An  Arab  robber  sheikh — The 
olive  tree — View  of  the  Mediterranean— Exhilaration  of  feeling — Vale 


400 


CONTENTS. 


xix 


of  Sharon — Visit  from  a  sheikh — Pastoral  scene  —  Improvement  in  the 
roads — Village  of  Latrun — Gaza — Kubab — Jackals — Singular  mode  of 
loading  donkeys — Filthy  habits  of  the  people — Ramleh — Traditions — 
Environs  of  the  town — Yazur — Dervishes  and  pilgrims  —  Fountain  and 
mosque  —  Results  of  our  operations  in  levelling — Jaffa — Proposed  har¬ 
bour — Description  of  the  town  and  its  environs — Copt  village — Muham- 
medan  superstitions — Throwing  the  djerid — Funeral  procession — Syro- 
American  consul  —  Historical  and  mythological  recollections  of  Jaffa  — 
Traditions  —  Population — Dinner  at  the  Consul’s  house  —  A  beautiful 
woman  —  Etiquette  —  Kindness  and  courtesy  of  the  consul — Bridal  pro¬ 
cession —  Treatment  of  Turkish  wives  —  Laws  of  divorce  —  Universal 
thraldom  of  woman — Turkish  laws  of  inheritance — Seclusion  of  females 
in  Syria — Dine  at  the  house  of  the  British  Consul — Singular  costume  of 
his  lady — Agricultural  improvements  introduced  by  him — Anecdotes — 
Supposed  antediluvian  rnin — Zodiacal  lights — An  estrangement — Boats 
launched — The  estrangement  explained — Treatment  of  slaves  .  426 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

FROM  JAFFA  TO  NAZARETH. 

Preparations — An  Arab’s  toilet — Departure  of  the  land-party  for  St.  Jean 
d’Acre  —  Embarkation  —  Detention — View  of  Jaffa  from  the  harbour — 

Start  afresh — Meditations  suggested  by  the  scenery — Arrival  at  St.  Jean 
d’Acre — Route  of  the  land-party  —  Ruins  of  Apollonia  —  El  Haram — - 
Mukhalid — Es  Skarki — Incidents — Ruins  of  Caesarea — The  river  Zerka 
— Town  of  Tantura  —  Dreadful  accident  to  one  of  the  seamen -—Castle 
of  the  pilgrims— -Mount  Carmel — Village  of  Haifa — Visit  from  Sherif 
and  ’Akil — Visit  returned — Arab  entertainment — Start  for  Nazareth — 
Valley  of  the  Winds — Annoying  accident — Arrival  at  Nazareth — Scene 
at  the  Fountain  of  the  Virgin  —  Franciscan  convent  —  Traditions  —  De¬ 
scription  of  the  town — Turkish  tax-gatherer — Flowers  collected  .  454 


CHAPTER  XXI Y. 

FROM  NAZARETH  TO  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

Start  for  Mount  Tabor  —  Plain  of  Esdraelon — Village  of  Nain — Ascent  to 
the  summit  of  Mount  Tabor — Ruins — Extensive  view — Proceed  onward 
— Ruined  villages — Bid  farewell  to  the  lower  Jordan — Sea  of  Galilee — 
Ruins  of  Tarrichrea  and  Kades — Hot  bath  of  Emmaus — Tiberias — Dis¬ 
appointment-Fountain  Bareideh — Magdala — Localities  passed — Ruins 
of  Khan  Minyeh — Fountain  of  the  Fig — Supposed  site  of  Capernaum — 
Debouchure  of  the  upper  Jordan  —  Singular  tents  —  Disturbed  rest  — 
Bethsaida  —  Aspect  of  the  country — View  of  Mount  Hermon  —  Lake 
Merom  —  Fountain  of  the  Salt  Works  —  The  Golden  Stream — Castle  of 


XX 


CONTENTS. 


Honin  —  Roman  bridge — The  Ancient  Dan  —  Copious  springs — Deriva¬ 
tion  of  the  word  Jordan — Cesarea  Philippi — Ruins — River  of  Banias — 
Fabulous  legends  —  Improvements  in  culture  and  civilization — Town  of 
Hasbeiya —  Reception  of  visitors  —  Population  of  the  town  —  Variety  of 
sects  —  Religious  discord  —  Persecution  of  Protestants — Horrors  of 
Fanaticism — Visit  from  Prince  Ali — Source  of  the  Jordan — Magnificent 
scene  —  Costume  of  the  prince  —  Dress  of  the  lower  orders  —  Terrace 
cultivation  —  The  Druses  —  Their  religious  tenets  —  Their  costume  — 
Visit  to  the  valley  of  the  Litany  —  Pits  of  Bitumen  —  Women  at  the 
fountain— A  trying  transition . i .  464 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

FROM  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  JORDAN  TO  DAMASCUS,  BA’ALBEK, 

BEIRUT,  AND  HOME. 

Joyful  intelligence  —  Start  for  Damascus — Druse  villages — Disappearance 
of  cultivation — Character  of  the  vegetation — Gorge  of  the  Wistanee — 

Fine  view  —  Cities  visible — Abortive  attempt  to  ascertain  the  height  of 
Mount  Hermon — Snow — Geological  features — Mineral  spring — Legend 

—  Reappearance  of  cultivation  —  Approach  to  Damascus  —  Beautiful 
gardens  —  Description  of  the  town  —  Meeting  with  an  American  —  The 
flag  of  our  country  displayed  —  Pleasant  quarters  —  A  cafe  —  Curious 
scene — Multitude  of  dogs — Turkish  insolence — The  bazaars — A  bath — 
Population  —  Entertained  by  American  missionaries — A  family  history 

—  St.  Paul’s  escape  from  Damascus  —  Antiquity  of  the  town — Vicissi¬ 
tudes  in  its  history  —  Jewish  dwellings  —  Dress  of  the  Jews — Distin¬ 
guished  visitors  —  Leave  the  city  —  Striking  and  beautiful  view  —  Cha¬ 
racter  of  the  surrounding  country  —  Village  of  Zebdany — Fine  gardens 

—  Traditions  —  Holy  spring  —  A  haughty  Kurd  prince  —  An  Arab 
drunkard  —  Plain  of  Biik’ah —  Arab  traditions  —  Ruins  of  Heliopolis — 
Lamartine’s  description — Indisposition  of  some  of  the  party — Enormous 
block  of  granite — Roman  mound — Arab  fellahas — Night  encampment 
— Increasing  sickness — Self-reproaches  —  Route  continued  — Numerous 
villages — Town  of  Zahley — Disheartening  occurrences — Roman  road — 
Unexpected  relief — Arrival  at  the  sea -shore  —  Disappointment  — 
Exhaustion  and  increasing  illness  —  Medical  relief — Convalescence  — 
Anniversary  of  our  country’s  independence — Alarming  illness  of  Mr. 

Dale  —  Kindness  of  Rev.  Mr.  Smith  and  Dr.  De  Forest — Visit  from  Dr. 
Vandyke — Case  of  unfeeling  selfishness — Death  of  Mr.  Dale — Prepara¬ 
tions  to  convey  the  remains  to  his  native  land  —  Painful  accident  and 
disappointment  —  Interment  of  the  body  in  the  Frank  cemetery  — 
Embarkation  —  Tedious  passage  —  Arrival  at  Malta  —  Kindness  of  the 
American  Consul  —  Quarantined  —  Arrival  of  the  Supply — Reembarka¬ 
tion —  Uncourteous  reception  at  Naples,  Marseilles,  and  Gibraltar  — 
Arrival  home  —  Conclusion — Analysis  of  Dead  Sea  Water .  481 


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EXPEDITION 


TO 

THE  DEAD  SEA. 

i 


CHAPTER  I. 

INTRODUCTORY. 

On  the  8th  of  May,  1847,  the  town  and  castle  of 
Yera  Cruz  having  some  time  before  surrendered,  and 
there  being  nothing  left  for  the  Navy  to  perform,  I  pre¬ 
ferred  an  application  to  the  Hon.  John  Y.  Mason,  the 
head  of  the  department,  for  permission  to  circumnavi¬ 
gate  and  thoroughly  explore  the  Lake  Asphaltites  or 
Dead  Sea. 

My  application  having  been  for  some  time  under 
consideration,  I  received  notice,  on  the  31st  of  July,  of 
a  favourable  decision,  with  an  order  to  commence  the 
necessary  preparations. 

On  the  2d  of  October,  I  received  an  order  to  take 
command  of  the  U.  S.  store-ship  “  Supply,’’  formerly 
called  the  “  Crusader.” 

In  the  mean  time,  while  the  ship  was  being  prepared 
for  her  legitimate  duty  of  supplying  the  squadron  with 
stores,  I  had,  by  special  authority,  two  metallic  boats, 
a  copper  and  a  galvanized  iron  one,*  constructed,  and 
shipped  ten  seamen  for  their  crews.  I  was  very  par- 

*  Built  by  the  patentee,  Mr.  Joseph  Francis,  of  New  York. 

2  ( xhi ) 


INTRODUCTORY. 


14 

ticular  in  selecting  young,  muscular,  native-born  Ame¬ 
ricans,  of  sober  habits,  from  each  of  whom  I  exacted 
a  pledge  to  abstain  from  all  intoxicating  drinks.  To 
this  stipulation,  under  Providence,  is  principally  to  be 
ascribed  their  final  recovery  from  the  extreme  prostra¬ 
tion  consequent  on  the  severe  privations  and  great 
exposure  to  which  they  were  unavoidably  subjected. 

Two  officers,  Lieutenant  J.  B.  Dale  and  Passed  Mid¬ 
shipman  B.  Aulick,  both  excellent  draughtsmen,  were 
detailed  to  assist  me  in  the  projected  enterprise. 

In  November  I  received  orders  to  proceed  to  Smyrna, 
as  soon  as  the  ship  should  in  all  respects  be  ready  for 
sea ;  and,  through  Mr.  Carr,  U.  S.  Eesident  Minister  at 
Constantinople,  apply  to  the  Turkish  government  for 
permission  to  pass  through  a  part  of  its  dominions  in 
Syria,  for  the  purpose  of  exploring  the  Dead  Sea,  and 
tracing  the  Eiver  Jordan  to  its  source. 

I  was  then  directed,  if  the  firman  were  granted,  to 
relinquish  the  ship  to  the  first  lieutenant,  and  land 
with  the  little  party  under  my  command  on  the  coast 
of  Syria.  The  ship  was  thence  to  proceed  to  deliver 
stores  to  the  squadron,  and  Commodore  Eead  was 
instructed  to  send  her  back  in  time  for  our  re-embar- 
cation. 

In  the  event  of  the  firman  being  refused,  I  was 
directed  to  rejoin  the  squadron  without  proceeding  to 
the  coast  of  Syria. 

The  ship  was  long  delayed  for  the  stores  necessary 
to  complete  her  cargo.  The  time  was,  however,  fully 
occupied  in  collecting  materials  and  procuring  infor¬ 
mation.  One  of  the  men  engaged  was  a  mechanic, 
whose  skill  would  be  necessary  in  taking  apart  and 
putting  together  the  boats,  which  were  made  in  sec¬ 
tions.  I  also  had  him  instructed  in  blasting  rocks, 


INTRODUCTORY. 


15 


should  such  a  process  become  necessary  to  ensure  the 
transportation  of  the  boats  across  the  mountain  ridges 
of  Galilee  and  Judea. 

Air-tight  gum-elastic  water  hags  were  also  procured, 
to  he  inflated  when  empty,  for  the  purpose  of  serving 
as  life-preservers  to  the  crews  in  the  event  of  the 
destruction  of  the  boats. 

Our  arms  consisted  of  a  blunderbuss,  fourteen  car¬ 
bines  with  long  bayonets,  and  fourteen  pistols,  four 
revolving  and  ten  with  bowie-knife  blades  attached. 
Each  officer  carried  his  sword,  and  all,  officers  and 
men,  were  provided  with  ammunition  belts. 

As  taking  the  boats  apart  would  be  a  novel  experi¬ 
ment,  which  might  prove  unsuccessful,  I  had  two  low 
trucks  (or  carriages  without  bodies)  made,  for  the  pur¬ 
pose  of  endeavouring  to  transport  the  boats  entire  from 
the  Mediterranean  to  the  Sea  of  Galilee.  The  trucks, 
when  fitted,  were  taken  apart  and  compactly  stowed  in 
the  hold,  together  with  two  sets  of  harness  for  draught 
horses.  The  boats,  when  complete,  were  hoisted  in, 
and  laid  keel  up  on  a  frame  prepared  for  them ;  and 
with  arms,  ammunition,  instruments,  tents,  flags,  sails, 
oars,  preserved  meats,  and  a  few  cooking  utensils,  our 
preparations  were  complete. 


\ 


CHAPTER  II. 


FROM  NEW  YORK  TO  PORT  MAHON. 

All  things  being  in  readiness,  on  the  20th  of  Novem¬ 
ber  we  dropped  down  from  the  Brooklyn  Navy-Yard, 
abreast  of  the  Battery,  and  waited  for  a  change  of 
weather. 

Friday,  Nov.  26, 1847.  At  10  A.  M.  weighed  anchor, 
and  at  10.15,  with  a  fresh  breeze  from  W.  N.  W.,  under 
a  press  of  sail,  we  stood  down  the  bay  of  New  York. 
Around  us  the  ruffled  water  was  chequered  with  nu¬ 
merous  sails,  and  the  shadows  of  detached  clouds  flit¬ 
ting  before  the  keen  and  cutting  wind,  fit  harbinger  of 
the  coming  frost.  Before  us,  the  “  Narrows”  open  into 
Raritan  Bay,  and  thence  expand  into  the  wide-spread 
and  magnificent  ocean. 

At  2,  P.  M.,  passed  the  light-house;  at  2.80  dis¬ 
charged  the  pilot;  2.45  braced  our  yards  to  the  fresh 
and  favouring  breeze,  and  bade,  as  God  in  His  mercy 
might  decree,  a  temporary  or  a  final  adieu  to  our 
native  land. 

In  a  few  hours  the  low  lands  were  sunk  beneath  the 
horizon,  and  at  sunset  the  high  lands  of  “Navesink” 
were  alone  visible  above  the  agitated  surface  of  the 
water.  The  dry  wind  sweeping  over  the  land,  which 
had  been  saturated  by  the  rains  of  the  two  preceding 
days,  caused  an  evaporation  so  great  as  wonderfully  to 
increase  the  refraction.  The  setting  sun,  expanding  as 

it  dipped,  and  varying  its  hues  with  its  expansion, 

(16) 


THE  LAND  DISAPPEARS.  17 

assumed  forms  as  unique  as  they  were  beautiful.  Now 
elongated  in  its  shape,  and  now  flattened  at  its  ends,  it 
would,  at  times,  be  disparted  by  the  white  crest  of  an 
intervening  wave,  and  present  alternately  the  appear¬ 
ance  of  golden  cups  and  balls,  and  jewelled  censers 
tossing  about  upon  a  silver  sea.  As  the  minutes  ad¬ 
vanced,  the  western  sky,  tint  by  tint,  became  one 
glorious  suffusion  of  crimson  and  orange,  and  the  disc 
of  the  sun,  flattening,  widening,  and  becoming  more 
ruddy  and  glowing  as  it  descended,  sunk  at  last,  like  a 
globe  of  ruby  in  a  sea  of  flame. 

I  took  this  as  an  auspicious  omen,  although  we  sailed 
on  Friday,  the  dreaded  day  of  seamen.  Why  supersti¬ 
tion  should  select  this  day  as  an  unlucky  one,  I  cannot 
conceive.  On  the  sixth  day,  Friday,  God  created  man 
and  blessed  him ;  and  on  Friday,  the  Redeemer  died  for 
man’s  salvation :  on  Friday,  Columbus  sailed  from  Palos 
in  quest  of  another  world:  on  the  same  day  of  the 
week,  he  saw  the  realization  of  his  dream  of  life ;  and 
returned  upon  a  Friday,  to  electrify  Europe  with  the 
wondrous  tidings  of  his  discovery.  As  a  harbinger  of 
good,  therefore,  and  not  of  evil,  I  hailed  our  departure 
upon  this  favoured  day. 

With  the  setting  sun,  all  vestige  of  the  land  disap¬ 
peared,  and  nothing  remained  but  a  luminous  point, 
which,  from  the  solitary  light-ship,  gleamed  tremu¬ 
lously  across  the  waters.  As  it  sunk  beneath  the 
waves,  our  last  visible  tie  with  the  Western  World  was 
severed.  How  gladly  on  our  return,  perchance  a  tem¬ 
pestuous  night,  shall  we  hail  that  light,  which,  flicker¬ 
ing  at  first,  but  at  length  steadfast  and  true,  welcomes 
the  weary  wanderer  to  his  home  ! 

Without  the  least  abatement  of  affection  for,  I  turned 
with  less  reluctance  than  ever  from,  the  land  of  my 
2*  B 


18  PLEASING  ANTICIPATION. 

nativity.  The  yearnings  of  twenty  years  were  about 
to  be  gratified.  When  a  young  midshipman,  almost 
the  very  least  in  the  escort  of  the  good  Lafayette  across 
the  ocean,  my  heart  was  prepared  for  its  subsequent 
aspirations.  In  truth,  in  our  route  across  the  Atlantic, 
in  the  silent  watches  of  the  night,  my  mind,  lost  in 
contemplation,  soared  from  the  deep  through  which  we 
ploughed  our  way,  to  that  upper  deep,  gemmed  with 
stars,  revolving  in  their  ceaseless  round,  and  from  them 
to  the  Mighty  Hand  that  made  them ;  and  my  previous 
desire  to  visit  the  land  of  the  Iliad,  of  Alexander  and 
of  Csesar,  became  merged  in  an  insatiate  yearning  to 
look  upon  the  country  which  was  the  cradle  of  the  hu¬ 
man  race,  and  the  theatre  of  the  accomplishment  of  that 
race’s  mysterious  destiny;  the  soil  liallownd  by  the 
footsteps,  fertilized  by  the  blood,  and  consecrated  by 
the  tomb,  of  the  Saviour. 

Twice,  since,  at  distant  intervals,  I  contemplated 
making  the  desired  visit.  But  the  imperative  calls  of 
duty  in  the  first  instance,  and  a  domestic  calamity  in 
the  second,  prevented  me.  As  I  have  before  said,  in 
the  spring  of  the  present  year  I  asked  permission  to 
visit  the  lands  of  the  Bible,  with  the  special  purpose 
of  thoroughly  exploring  the  Dead  Sea;  the  extent, 
configuration,  and  depression  of  which,  are  as  much 
desiderata  to  science,  as  its  miraculous  formation,  its 
mysterious  existence,  and  the  wondrous  traditions  re¬ 
specting  it,  are  of  thrilling  interest  to  the  Christian. 

The  same  liberal  spirit  which  decided  that  the  Expe¬ 
dition  should  be  undertaken,  directed  ample  means  to 
be  furnished  for  its  equipment.  With  our  boats,  there¬ 
fore,  and  arms,  ammunition,  and  instruments,  I  felt 
well  prepared  for  the  arduous  but  delightful  task  be¬ 
fore  me. 


THE  GULF  STREAM. 


19 


The  boats  66  Fanny  Mason”  and  “  Fanny  Skinner/’  of 
nearly  equal  dimensions,  were  named  after  two  young 
and  blooming  children,  whose  hearts  are  as  spotless  as 
their  parentage  is  pure.  Their  prayers,  like  guardian 
spirits,  would  shield  us  in  the  hour  of  peril;  and  I 
trusted  that,  whether  threading  the  rapids  of  the  Jor¬ 
dan,  or  floating  on  the  wondrous  sea  of  death,  the  “  Two 
Fannies”  would  not  disgrace  the  gentle  and  artless  be¬ 
ings  whose  names  they  proudly  bore. 

Tuesday,  Nov.  30.  Spoke  an  English  brig  bound  to 
New  York.  She  had  many  passengers  on  board,  and 
had  evidently  been  a  long  time  at  sea.  Poor  fellows  ! 
they  were  sadly  out  of  their  reckoning,  and  we  endea¬ 
voured  to  correct  their  longitude,  but  the  wind  blew  so 
fresh  that  I  fear  we  were  not  understood.  There  are 
few  things  more  exciting  than  the  meeting  of  two  ships 
on  the  lonely  waters.  Approaching  rapidly,  and  as 
rapidly  receding,  but  a  few  moments  are  allowed  for 
friendly  greeting ;  but,  in  that  brief  interval,  how  many 
thoughts  of  home  and  its  endearments  crowd  the  mind 
of  the  anxious  wanderer ! 

Thursda}q  Dec.  2.  The  wind  freshened  into  a  steady 
gale ;  fragments  of  clouds  flitted  hurriedly  across  the 
sky;  and  the  ship,  now  riding  upon  the  crests,  and 
again  sunk  in  the  hollow  of  a  wave,  rolling  and 
plunging,  dashed  furiously  onward,  like  a  maddened 
steed,  instinct  with  desperation. 

The  deep  colour  of  the  water,  its  higher  tempera¬ 
ture,  and  the  light  mist  which  shrouded  its  surface, 
showed  that  we  had  been  for  some  days  in  the  Gulf 
Stream,  that  wonderful  current  which  originates  from 
the  multitudinous  waters  that  are  swept  across  the  At¬ 
lantic  before  the  trade  winds,  and  impinge  against  the 
western  continent ;  thence,  sent  with  a  whirl  along  the 


20 


CURRENTS  AND  GALES. 


southern  coast  of  the  United  States,  they  are  inter¬ 
cepted  by  the  Bahamas,  and  turned  rapidly  to  the  north 
and  east,  until,  encountering  the  Grand  Bank,  they  are 
deflected  easterly  towards  the  Azores,  and  thence,  pur¬ 
suing  different  routes,  one  branch  seeks  the  Mediter¬ 
ranean,  and  the  other  is  lost  in  the  sluggish  Sargossa 
Sea. 

Our  chronometers,  invariably  ahead  of  the  reckoning, 
proved  that  we  were  accelerated  by  the  current  half  a 
mile  an  hour.  We  occasionally  met  with  patches  of 
sea-weed  (fucus  natans),  and  one  morning  found  several 
mollusca  upon  a  branch  of  it. 

Between  the  coast  of  the  United  States  and  the  inner 
edge  of  the  Gulf  Stream,  we  were  swept  forty  miles  to 
the  southward,  attributable,  perhaps,  to  the  great  polar 
current  setting  along  our  coast  to  the  south-west.  This 
eddy  current  of  the  Gulf  Stream  may  be  the  cause  of 
the  increase  of  cold  experienced  by  navigators  on  reach¬ 
ing  soundings. 

We  were  favoured  with  fresh  north-westerly  gales, 
frequent  rains,  and  a  heavy  sea,  but  there  had  been  no 
great  falling  of  the  barometer.  When  under  close  reefed 
topsails  and  a  reefed  course,  with  a  high  sea  running, 
the  barometer  had  only  fallen  t1?  of  an  inch.  On  the 
approach  of  an  easterly  gale,  a  few  days  previous  to  our 
departure  from  New  York,  it  fell  t\  of  an  inch. 

This  day,  tested  thermometrical  barometer,  No  2. 
Temperature  of  air,  68°;  of  surface  of  the  sea,  70°;  of 
the  sea,  at  100  fathoms,  63°.  Barometer,  30.6.  Water 
boiled  at  212.95.  Salt  hygrometer  floated  at  1.4. 
Latitude,  38°  40',  north;  longitude,  43°  00',  west. 

Tuesday,  Dec.  7.  The  barometer  gradually  fell,  and 
the  weather  became  more  and  more  tempestuous. 


THE  AZORES. 


21 


Wednesday;  Dec.  8.  In  the  morning  watch  we  were 
compelled  to  heave  to;  the  ship  labouring  excessively. 
In  the  afternoon;  the  barometer  had  reached  its  mini¬ 
mum;  29. 72;  when  the  wind  shifted  in  a  sudden  squall. 
Although  the  wind  was  fierce,  the  sky  was  cloudless, 
and  the  sea  exhibited  in  magnificent  confusion  its  top¬ 
pling  waves,  with  their  foaming  crests  and  driving 
spray,  which  sailors  call  spoom-drift,  flashing  in  the 
sunlight.  The  interest  of  the  scene  was  heightened  by 
several  sperm  whales  sporting  in  the  wild  chaos  of 
waters,  and  exhibiting  their  glossy  hacks  as  they  rose 
occasionally  to  the  surface,  and  blew  high  in  air  volumes 
of  water  from  their  capacious  nostrils. 

Thursday,  Dec.  9.  The  fitful  airs  throughout  the  day 
indicated,  apart  from  our  observations,  the  near  vicinity 
of  the  land. 

Friday,  Dec.  11.  This  morning,  made  the  islands  of 
Corvo  and  Flores,  the  north-westernmost  of  the  Azores, 
and  by  sunset  we  had  reached  the  meridian  of  Flores, 
its  brown  and  furrowed  sides  undecked  with  a  single 
flower,  and  giving  no  indication  of  the  origin  of  its 
name.  Fearing  that  we  should  be  becalmed  if  we  ran 
to  leeward  of  it,  and  the  sea  setting  heavily  upon  Corvo, 
I  determined  to  run  between  them,  although  we  had  no 
chart  of  the  islands,  and  no  one  on  board  knew  whether 
or  not  the  passage  was  practicable.  To  this,  I  was 
induced  by  two  considerations  :  In  the  first  place,  from 
the  rounded  summits  of  the  islands,  they  were  evidently 
of  volcanic  origin,  and  shoals  are  rare  in  such  vicinities. 
In  the  second  place,  the  sea  ran  so  high,  that  it  must 
break  over  any  intervening  obstacle,  and  present  a  dis¬ 
tinct  and  prohibitory  line  of  foam.  We  therefore  stood 
boldly  through,  and,  as  if  to  cheer  us,  the  rays  of  the 
setting  sun,  intercepted  by  a  rain-cloud  which  had 


BEAUTIFUL  NIGHT. 


99 

swept  over  us,  arched  the  passage  with  the  best-defined 
and  most  vivid  rainbow  I  have  ever  seen.  It  was  so 
striking,  that  every  draughtsman  on  board  was  imme¬ 
diately  employed,  endeavouring  to  catch  the  flitting 
beauties  of  the  scene. 

In  the  middle  of  the  passage,  the  bow  had  faded  away 
with  the  setting  sun,  leaving  the  sky  less  brilliant,  but 
far  more  beautiful.  In  the  east,  directly  ahead,  rose 
the  planet  J upiter,  lustrous  as  a  diamond,  cresting  with 
his  brilliant  light  the  line  of  vapour  which  skirted  the 
horizon.  Near  the  zenith,  shone  the  moon  in  her  meri¬ 
dian  ;  lower  down,  the  fiery  Mars ;  and  in  the  west, 
the  beautiful  Venus  slowly  descended,  enveloped  in  the 
golden  hues  of  the  sun,  which  had  preceded  her.  The 
gorgeous  sun,  the  placid  moon,  the  gem-like  Jupiter, 
and  the  radiant  Venus,  bespoke  the  enduring  serenity 
and  the  joys  of  Heaven;  while  the  agitated  sea,  crested 
with  foam,  breaking  loudly  on  either  shore,  which,  in 
the  gathering  dimness,  seemed  in  dangerous  proximity, 
told  of  the  anxieties  and  perils  of  this  transitory  life. 

We  passed  through  unimpeded,  at  a  glorious  rate, 
and  the  next  day,  at  4  P.  M.,  were  abreast  and  in  sight 
of  the  island  Graciosa,  the  last  of  the  group  in  our  line 
of  route,  its  rude  outlines  dimly  seen  through  its  misty 
shroud.  The  barren  faces  of  these  lofty  islands  present 
no  indication  of  their  fertility.  They  abound,  however, 
in  cereal  grains,  and  produce  an  excellent  wine.  They 
are  frequently  resorted  to  by  our  whalers,  and  by 
homeward-bound  Indiamen,  for  supplies. 

A  case  of  varioloid  made  its  appearance  on  board, 
but  so  slight  as  to  create  no  alarm,  and  in  the  opinion 
of  the  surgeon,  did  not  require  isolation.  I  had  1113^ 
misgivings,  for  it  is  but  the  milder  type  of  a  disease  as 
insidious  as  it  is  loathsome ;  and,  with  the  concurrence 


/ 


A  SQUALL.  23 

of  the  surgeon,  purposed  to  have  every  officer  and  man 
vaccinated  the  first  opportunity. 

Friday,  Dec.  IT.  Made  Cape  St.  Vincent,  the  “  Sa¬ 
crum  Promontorium”  of  the  Romans,  the  south-western 
extremity  of  vine-clad  Portugal,  as  it  is  of  Europe  also. 
This  is  the  second  time  we  have  made  land  upon  a 
Friday.  It  was  off  this  cape  that  Admiral  Jarvis 
gained  his  celebrated  victory,  and  from  it  was  derived 
the  title  of  his  patent  of  nobility. 

During  the  night,  the  wind  hauled  to  the  southward 
and  freshened  to  a  gale,  making  it  necessary  to  stand 
off  from  the  shore.  At  4  A.  M.,  without  an  instant’s 
warning,  the  wind  shifted  in  a  squall,  taking  the  sails 
aback,  the  most  perilous  position,  with  a  heavy  sea,  in 
which  a  ship  can  he  placed.  Fortunately  the  courses 
were  not  set,  and  the  noble  ship,  although  pressed 
down  and  deeply  buried,  obeyed  the  reverse  helm  and 
paid  off  before  the  wind.  Had  she  been  less  buoyant 
and  seaworthy,  she  must  have  inevitably  foundered. 
The  squall  subsided  into  a  steady  breeze,  and  passing 
Cape  St.  Vincent,  we  were,  at  meridian,  abreast  of  the 
coast  of  romantic  Spain  —  its  mountains,  towering  as 
they  receded  from  the  shore,  wreathed  their  craggy 
summits  with  the  mist  which  floated  in  the  distance. 

Sunday,  Dec.  19.  Made  Cape  Trafalgar,  and  sailed 
over  the  scene  of  the  great  conflict  between  the  fleet  of 
England  and  the  combined  fleets  of  France  and  Spain. 
Here,  the  great  Collingwood  broke  the  opposing  line ! 
There  the  heroic  Nelson,  the  terror  of  his  foes  and  the 
pride  of  his  countrymen,  nobly,  but  prematurely  fell — 
his  last  pulsation  an  exultant  throb,  as  the  shout  of 
victory  rang  in  his  dying  ear.  He  died  gloriously,  for 
he  fell  iu  his  country’s  cause,  but  prematurely  for  his 
own  fair  fame.  Had  he  lived  his  noble  nature  would 


24 


TRAFALGAR. 


have  freed  itself  from  the  thraldom  of  a  syren,  and 
casting  aside  the  seductions  of  the  beautiful  daughter 
of  sin,  his  after  life  would  have  been  as  morally  great, 
as  his  early  deeds  were  unequalled  in  daring  achieve¬ 
ment. 

We  have  noiv  a  mottled  sky  above  us,  and  ride  upon 
a  tumultuous  but  not  a  stormy  sea.  The  waves,  like 
clumsy,  living  things,  rush  and  tumble  along  in  the 
utmost  seeming  disorder,  and  we  have  only  the  sweep 
of  the  wind  and  the  surge  of  the  sea,  as  the  waves 
topple  and  break  around  and  before  us. 

Then ,  the  atmosphere  was  pure  and  the  sky  serene, 
and  the  gentle  and  undulating  waves  pressed  the  sides 
of  the  huge  armaments  they  supported,  their  aspect 
lovely  and  their  rippling  sound  melodious.  The  light 
breeze,  bearing  fragrance  on  its  wing,  wooed  the  upper 
sails  of  the  advancing  fleet  in  its  soft  embrace,  and 
slowly  propelled  it  towards  the  opposing  line.  A  few 
brief  moments,  and  how  changed  the  scene !  The 
balmy  air  became  murky,  sulphurous,  and  stifling,  and 
one  dark  cloud,  concealing  earth,  and  sea,  and  sky,  en¬ 
veloped  the  commingled  fleets,  from  whence  came  forth 
incessant  flashes  and  resounding  peals,  which  rivalled 
the  red  lightning  and  the  loud  thunder  of  an  elemental 
strife.  From  amid  this  sound,  frightful,  yet  stirring  to 
the  human  heart,  and  appalling  to  every  other  creature, 
came  other  sounds,  yet  more  harrowing  —  the  shout  of 
defiance,  the  shriek  of  agony  and  the  yell  of  despair, 
—  and  fish,  and  bird,  and  every  other  living  thing  fled 
precipitately  from  the  scene,  leaving  man,  the  monarch 
of  creation,  to  slay  his  fellow  man,  the  image  of  his 
august  Creator !  Such  is  battle  !  and  he  who  rushes 
into  it,  impelled  by  other  than  the  highest  motives, 
perils  more  than  life  in  the  encounter.  It  is  a  glorious 


THE  MEDITERRANEAN. 


25 


privilege  to  fight  for  one’s  country ;  but,  the  seaman  or 
the  soldier  who  strikes  for  lucre  or  ambition,  is  an  un¬ 
worthy  combatant. 

As  the  day  advanced,  the  weather  became  tem¬ 
pestuous  ;  huge  clouds,  swollen  with  rain,  rose  in  rapid 
succession,  and  sweeping  over,  discharged  themselves 
in  heavy  gusts.  A  mist  of  varying  density,  wreathed 
along  the  coast,  was  here  and  there  disparted  by  a  bold 
promontory,  or  sharp  projecting  rock. 

Fearful  of  being  swept  by  the  rapid  currents  upon  the 
northern  shore  of  the  straits,  into  which  we  had  now 
fairly  entered,  we  hauled  more  to  the  southward,  and 
soon,  looming  through  the  mist  in  gloomy  grandeur, 
the  mountains  of  Africa,  lofty  and  majestic,  rose  upon 
the  view. 

Keeping  thence  the  mid  channel,  we  soon  passed 
Tarifa,  the  southern  point  of  Europe,  where  the  Sara¬ 
cens  first  landed  under  El  Arif,  from  whom  it  derives 
its  name.  The  waves  were  dashing  wildly  against  its 
battlements,  encircling  them  with  a  line  of  foam. 

Twice  has  this  narrow  strait  been  covered  with 
Saracen  flotillas.  First,  on  their  invasion  of  Spain, 
when  they  subjugated  its  fairest  and  most  fertile  por¬ 
tion  ;  and  secondly,  when,  overcome  by  the  wily  Fer¬ 
dinand  and  the  peerless  Isabella,  they  fled  disorderly 
from  a  land  they  had  held  so  long,  and  loved  so  fondly. 
The  Martello  towers  erected  along  the  coast,  attest  the 
fears  long  entertained,  and  the  vigilance  long  exercised 
to  guard  against  invasion. 

2.30  P.  M.  The  clouds  and  mist,  driven  before  the 
freshening  wind,  have  left  us  a  clear  atmosphere. 
Ahead,  is  the  blue  expanse  of  the  Mediterranean, 
held  by  the  ancients,  as  its  name  imports,  to  be  the 
centre  of  the  earth.  On  either  bow,  is  Calpe  and 
3 


26 


GIBRALTAR. 


Abyla,  the  pillars  of  Hercules,  and  termini  of  two 
continents. 

2.40.  The  strong  current,  and  yet  stronger  wind,  have 
propelled  us  so  rapidly  onward,  that  the  “Rock”  and 
the  bay  of  Gibraltar  are  now  in  full  view  to  the  east 
and  north.  As  the  bay  opened,  the  towns  of  St.  Roque 
and  Algesiras  greeted  us  to  the  north  and  west.  The 
former,  directly  ahead,  as  we  steered  for  the  anchorage, 
is  situated  on  the  summit  of  a  high,  rounded  hill,  sepa¬ 
rated  from  the  surrounding  ones  by  a  luxuriant,  cir¬ 
cular  valley.  It  is  the  most  picturesque,  and  needs  but 
foliage  to  be  the  most  beautiful  town,  at  a  distance,  I 
have  ever  beheld. 

4  P.  M.  Anchored  immediately  abreast  of  the  town 
of  Gibraltar. 

The  rock  of  Gibraltar,  abrupt  on  this,  its  western 
side,  and  on  the  other  absolutely  precipitous,  has  a 
summit  line,  sharp  and  rugged,  terminating  with  a 
sheer  descent  on  its  northern  face,  and  sloping  gradu¬ 
ally  to  Europa  point  at  its  south  extreme.  From  an 
angle  of  the  bay,  this  rock,  1400  feet  high  and  three 
miles  long,  presents  the  exact  appearance  of  a  couchant 
lion ; — his  fore-paws  gathered  beneath  him,  his  massive, 
shaggy  head  towards  Spain,  his  fretted  mane  bristling 
against  the  sky,  and  his  long  and  sweeping  tail  resting 
upon  the  sea. 

Upon  the  debris  on  its  western  side,  about  one-third 
the  distance  from  its  northern  end,  the  town  is  built, 
tier  above  tier,  containing  a  crowded  population  of 
15,000  souls,  in  a  most  contracted  space.  The  houses, 
built  of  stone  and  covered  with  tile,  are  mostly  small 
and  incommodious,  and  their  fronts  are  coated  with  a 
dark  wash,  to  lessen  the  glare  of  the  sun,  which,  from 
meridian  until  it  sinks  beneath  the  mountains  of  Anda- 


DEFENCES  OF  GIBRALTAR.  27 

lusia,  shines  full  upon  them.  With  the  exception  of 
the  upper  part  of  the  town,  where  alone  the  suburbs 
are,  the  confined  and  narrow  streets  and  dwellings  are 
badly  ventilated;  hence,  in  the  summer  season,  epi¬ 
demics  are  often  rife  and  devastating. 

The  entire  water  front  of  the  bay  is  one  continuous 
line  of  ramparts,  and,  from  numerous  apertures,  the 
brazen  mouths  of  artillery  proclaim  the  invincible  hold 
of  its  present  possessors.  It  is  said,  that  there  is  not 
one  spot  in  the  bay,  on  which  at  least  one  hundred 
cannon  cannot  be  brought  to  bear.  Its  northern  face, 
too,  is  excavated,  and  two  tiers  of  chambers  are  pierced 
with  embrasures,  through  which  heavy  pieces  of  ord¬ 
nance  point  along  the  neutral  ground  upon  the  Spanish 
barrier.  This  neutral  ground,  a  narrow  isthmus,  at  its 
junction  with  the  rock,  but  soon  spreading  out  into  a 
llat,  sandy  plain,  separates,  by  about  half  a  mile,  the 
respective  jurisdictions  of  Great  Britain  and  Spain. 

Just  within  the  Spanish  barrier  is  a  small  village, 
containing  fifty  or  sixty  houses,  a  few  constructed  of 
stone,  but  most  of  them  of  thatched  straw.  Yfhat  a 
contrast  it  presents  to  the  cleanliness,  order,  and  air  of 
comfort  which  pervade  the  fortress,  so  short  a  distance 
from  it !  Ill  clad,  lazy  men,  lounging  in  the  sun ; 
homely,  dirty,  dishevelled  women,  with  yet  filthier 
children,  seated  in  the  door-ways ;  and  hordes  of  impor¬ 
tunate  beggars,  who,  the  dogs  excepted,  are  the  only 
active  inhabitants  of  the  place,  all  too  plainly  bespeak 
an  unhappy  and  misgoverned  country. 

South-west  of  the  barrier,  on  the  northern  margin  of 
the  bay,  are  the  ruins  of  fort  St.  Philip,  erected  during 
the  siege  of  Gibraltar  by  the  combined  land  and  naval 
forces  of  France  and  Spain.  Immediately  north,  on 
the  first  ridge  of  a  mountain  chain,  which  becomes 


28  A  N  INCONSIDERATE  VOf. 

more  and  more  lofty  in  the  distance  until  it  is  lost  in 
the  Sierra  Nevada,  is  a  rounded  stone  or  semi-column, 
upon  which,  it  is  said,  the  Queen  of  Spain  took  her  seat 
when  the  batteries  opened  upon  the  town  and  fortress 
of  Gibraltar,  solemnly  protesting  that  she  would  not 
rise  from  it  until  the  allied  banners  waved  in  the  place 
of  the  blood-red  flag  of  England.  Like  many  another 
rash  and  inconsiderate  vow,  it  was  necessarily  broken, 
and  the  mortification  of  defeat  was  enhanced  by  the 
recollection  of  her  folly. 

About  a  mile  west  of  the  barrier,  a  narrow  gully  in 
the  sand,  which,  in  the  winter,  is  partly  filled  with 
water,  and  in  the  summer  perfectly  dry,  indicates  the 
bed  of  the  river  May  or  go,  on  the  banks  of  which  the 
populous  city  of  Carteia  once  stood.  Between  these 
banks,  how  many  a  proud  Koman  and  Carthaginian 
galley  has  passed,  as  the  place  fell  alternately  into  the 
possession  of  either  power !  Of  the  thousands  who 
inhabited  that  city, — of  the  houses  they  dwelt  in,  and 
the  walls,  towers,  and  citadel  which  encircled  and 
defended  them,  not  a  single  vestige  now  remains.  How 
transitory  and  fleeting  is  the  life  of  man !  In  the  midst 
of  terrestrial  cares,  he  is  swept  from  existence,  and  the 
memory  of  the  most  favoured  is  scarce  treasured  beyond 
the  first  anniversary  of  his  fall.  Alas  !  “  What  sha¬ 
dows  we  are,  and  what  shadows  we  pursue !” 

We  here  took  observations,  to  ascertain  the  rate  of 
our  chronometers,  and  purchased  some  chemical  tests 
and  an  herbarium,  for  the  Expedition.  Having  only 
stopped  at  Gibraltar  for  some  mathematical  instru¬ 
ments,  ordered  from  London,  we  were  in  hourly  expec¬ 
tation  of  their  arrival,  when  an  untoward  event  com¬ 
pelled  us  to  sail  without  them.  One  of  the  officers 
had  been  violently  ill  for  some  days,  and  the  skill  of 
the  surgeon  was  baffled  to  detect  the  character  of  the 


SMALL-POX  OX  BOARD.  29 

disease,  when,  on  the  morning  of  the  fifth  day,  it  deve¬ 
loped  unequivocal  symptoms  of  the  small-pox.  My  first 
thought  was  to  seek  a  place,  to  which  those  who  might 
be  attacked  could  be  removed  as  soon  as  taken,  and 
thereby,  as  much  as  possible,  retard  the  dissemination 
of  the  pestilence  among  the  crew.  My  next  considera¬ 
tion  was  to  protect  the  crowded  town  and  garrison, 
where  we  had  been  so  hospitably  received.  I  therefore 
immediately  interdicted  all  communication  with  the 
shore,  and,  as  soon  as  the  weather  would  permit,  sailed 
for  Port  Mahon,  where  the  flag-ship  was,  and  where 
there  are  extensive  hospitals.  The  sick  man  knew, 
however,  that  before  it  could  be  reached,  he  must  pass 
the  ordeal.  His  feelings  can  be  better  imagined  than 
described.  Prostrate  with  a  disease  as  malignant  as  it 
is  loathsome ;  with  a  body  inflamed  and  swollen,  and 
a  mind  so  racked  with  fever,  that  reason,  from  time  to 
time,  fairly  tottered  on  her  throne,  he  must  naturally 
have  longed  to  exchange  his  hard  and  narrow  berth, 
and  the  stifling  atmosphere  of  a  ship,  soon  to  be  tossed 
about,  the  sport  of  the  elements,  for  a  softer  and  more 
spacious  couch,  a  more  airy  apartment,  and,  above  all, 
the  quiet  and  the  better  attendance  of  the  shore. 

After  a  boisterous  passage  of  eight  days,  we  reached 
Port  Mahon,  where  the  invalid  was  hoisted  out  of  the 
ship,  and  taken  in  his  bed  to  the  Lazaretto,  or  Lazar 
House,  the  most  cheerless,  bleak,  and  dreary  quarters 
ever  occupied  for  such  a  purpose.  The  few  dismal 
weeks  he  spent  there,  unable  to  read  and  incapable  of 
writing,  will,  doubtless,  be  long  remembered  by  him. 

Fortunately,  there  was  but  one  additional  case;  and 
the  ship,  by  repeated  fumigations,  and  various  modes 
of  ventilation,  was  finally  purged  of  the  foul  and  fester¬ 
ing  disease. 


30 


PORT  MAHON. 


Mahon,  so  named  from  Mago,  the  father  of  Hannibal, 
is  the  chief  town  of  the  island  of  Minorca.  It  is  beau¬ 
tifully  situated  at  the  north-west  extremity  of  one  of 
the  most  secure  and  spacious  harbours  in  the  world. 
This  port,  since  the  first  introduction  of  a  U.  S.  naval 
force  in  the  Mediterranean,  subsequent  to  the  war  with 
the  freebooters  of  Barbary,  has,  with  few  exceptions, 
been  the  winter  rendezvous  of  our  squadrons  stationed 
in  that  sea.  Why  it  should  be  so,  with  the  security 
of  the  anchorage  its  only  recommendation,  it  is  difficult 
to  conceive.  Other  places  there  are,  sufficiently  secure, 
less  isolated  in  their  position,  less  tempestuous  in  their 
winter  climate,  abounding  with  classical  associations 
and  teeming  with  inducements  to  scientific  research, 
far  superior  to  Port  Mahon.  A  place  famed  for  the 
facilities  it  presents  for  acquiring,  and  the  cheapness 
of  indulging  low  and  vicious  habits: — famed  for  the 
circumstance  that  the  senior  officers,  and  all  who  can 
be  spared  from  watch,  abandon  their  ships  and  reside 
for  months  on  shore  ;  while  many  of  the  young  and 
the  inexperienced,  and  some  of  their  superiors,  spend 
much  of  their  time  and  all  their  money  in  the  haunts 
of  the  dissipated  and  the  vile.  I  do  not  mean  to  reflect 
upon  the  respectable  part  of  the  population  of  Mahon, 
for  there  is  not  a  more  kind-hearted  or  gentle  people 
in  the  world.  But  ignorance  of  the  language  compels 
most  of  our  officers  to  keep  aloof  from  a  society,  which, 
if  it  do  not  increase  the  refinement  of  their  manners, 
should  at  least  protect  them  from  moral  degradation. 

Apart  from  all  moral  considerations,  there  are  politi¬ 
cal  ones  why  Port  Mahon  should  not  be  the  winter 
rendezvous  of  our  squadron  in  the  Mediterranean. 

Within  twelve  years,  difficulties  were  once  antici¬ 
pated  with  France,  and  twice  with  England;  —  with 


the  former  power  on  the  subject  of  indemnity,  and 
with  the  latter  on  the  questions  of  the  north-eastern 
boundary  and  the  disputed  claim  to  Oregon.  On  these 
occasions,  our  depot  was,  and  our  squadrons  mostly 
were,  at  this  port,  in  a  small  island,  two  hundred  miles 
distant  from  Toulon,  the  nearest  point  on  the  main 
land,  and  equi-distant  from  Gibraltar  and  Malta  —  all 
three  strongholds  of  probable  enemies.  Its  isolated 
position  debars  intelligence  from  the  continent  more 
frequently  than  once  a  month,  and  the  first  indication 
of  hostilities  might  have  been  the  summons  of  a  hostile 
fleet. 

It  is  true  that  our  commanders  have  received  direc¬ 
tions  not  to  winter  at  Mahon,  but  orders  are  fruitless 
while  commanders  of  squadrons  claim  the  privilege 
of  exercising  their  own  judgment  without  regard  to  the 
instructions  of  the  authorities  at  home.  We  found 
the  flag-ship  here,  and  here  it  is  believed  that  the 
squadron  will  winter. 

The  islands  of  Minorca  and  Majorca,  with  the  small 
one  of  Ivica,  closely  contiguous,  form  the  Balearic  isles, 
from  whence  the  Carthaginians  and  the  Romans,  as 
they  successively  conquered  it,  procured  their  Baleares 
or  slingers.  It  is  said,  that  in  Mahon  Hannibal  took 
the  well-known  oath  of  vengeance  against  the  unrelent¬ 
ing  foe  of  his  country. 

The  soil  is  thin,  yet  exceedingly  productive ;  but  so 
great  are  the  trammels,  alike  on  agriculture,  commerce, 
and  every  branch  of  domestic  manufacture,  that  the 
people  are  deplorably  impoverished.  Numerous  beg¬ 
gars,  and  the  yet  more  painful  sight  of  abject  poverty 
peeping  from  beneath  the  ragged  skirts  of  pride,  every¬ 
where  greet  the  eye.  Every  day  presents  scenes  cal- 


ANCIENT  RUINS. 


go 
oA 

culated  to  make  the  philosopher  moralize  and  the 
Christian  weep.  Alas  !  poor  Spain  ! 

Friday,  Jan.  28.  Lieutenant  Dale  and  myself  visited 
the  talayots  of  Trepuco  and  Talatli,  two  Celtic  ruins, 
with  mounds  and  musae  or  altars.  The  first  is  in  the 
midst  of  a  circular  fort  with  five  bastions,  behind 
which,  tradition  says,  the  inhabitants  of  the  island  de¬ 
fended  themselves  against  the  Moors.  We  thought  the 
circumvallations  more  modern  than  the  mound,  or  the 
musse  or  altars. 

These  ruins,  and  others  on  the  island,  are  either 
monumental  tombs  or  altars  of  sacrifice,  on  which 
human  victims  were  most  probably  immolated.  The 
Druids,  or  priests  of  the  Celts,  derived  their  religion, 
perhaps,  from  the  Egyptians.  How  much  labour  and 
ingenuity  that  ancient  people  evinced  in  quarrying, 
transporting  and  elevating  such  enormous  blocks  !  The 
exact  manner  in  which  they  are  placed  with  regard  to 
the  cardinal  points,  and  being  so  accurately  poised  as  to 
stand  for  many  centuries,  exhibit,  also,  no  inconsiderable 
knowledge  of  geometry.  Scarce  a  vestige  remains  of 
the  nations  that  have  subsequently  possessed  this 
island,  while  here  stand  these  huge  old  stones  and 
enormous  piles,  the  mute,  but  expressive  memorials  of 
the  most  ancient  people  of  all !  Mr.  Dale  took  exact 
sketches  of  the  mound  of  Trepuco  and  the  musa  of 
Talatli. 

The  Balearic  isles,  believed  to  have  been  settled  by 
the  Phoenicians,  if  not  by  the  Celts  long  before  them, 
have  fallen  successively  under  the  yoke  of  the  Cartha¬ 
ginians,  the  Romans,  the  Goths,  the  Saracens,  the 
English  and  the  Spaniards,  —  under  the  latter  three 
times. 


CHAPTER  III. 


PORT  MAHON  TO  SMYRNA. 

Friday,  Feb.  4  th.  At  10  P.  M.  left  the  harbour  of 
Mahon  with  a  light  but  favourable  wind.  Our  stay  had 
been  so  protracted  that  we  gladly  hailed  the  familiar 
sight  of  a  boundless  horizon  before  us.  We  had  all  be¬ 
come  somewhat  impatient  of  the  many  causes  of  detention 
that  had  interfered  with  our  departure ;  and  we  were,  of 
course,  proportionately  elated  when  at  length  we  were 
again  careering  over  the  blue  waves  of  the  Mediter¬ 
ranean. 

The  breeze  freshened  as  the  night  wore  on,  and  we 
wended  joyfully  on  our  way,  each  congratulating  the 
other  on  the  prospect  of  a  speedy  disembarcation.  The 
next  day  we  passed  south  of  Sardinia ;  and  the  morning 
after  made  the  Island  of  Maritimo,  and  beyond  it  could 
see  the  blue  outlines  of  Sicily.  The  day  was  at  first  clear 
and  beautiful,  but,  with  the  ascending  sun,  a  dim  vapour 
spread  along  the  sky,  and,  wafted  by  the  wind,  like  a 
misty  shroud,  enveloped  the  larger  island.  To  the  eye, 
all  was  serene  and  peaceful,  but  beneath  that  veil  the 
myrmidons  of  power  and  the  assertors  of  human  rights 
were  engaged  in  deadly  conflict.  The  Sicilian  revolution 
had  begun.  Its  end,  who  could  foresee  ? 

c 


(33) 


34 


MALTA. 


P.  M.  Passed  the  island  of  Pantellaria,  the  Botany  Bay 
of  Naples  and  Sicily,  and  accounted  by  some  to  be  the 
Isle  of  Calypso. 

To  avoid  danger  in  the  shape  of  rocks  and  shoals  at 
sea,  it  is  ever  best  to  shape  the  course  directly  for  them, 
for  then  all  are  vigilant.  We  stood,  therefore,  directly 
for  the  shoal  which  marks  the  spot  where,  some  years 
since,  a  volcanic  island  suddenly  rose  from  the  sea,  and 
shortly  after  disappeared.  We  saw  nothing  of  it. 

During  the  night  we  shortened  sail,  but,  with  the  fresh 
wind  blowing,  it  was  difficult  to  check  the  ship  in  her 
headlong  velocity.  At  early  daylight,  the  Islands  of 
Gozo  (the  true  Calypso)  and  of  Malta  were  directly  before 
us.  To  the  eye  they  presented  the  barren  aspect  of  rugged 
brown  rocks,  their  surfaces  unrelieved  by  tree  or  verdure ; 
and  the  houses,  built  of  the  same  material,  and  covered 
with  tile,  rather  added  to,  than  varied,  the  tiresome  uni¬ 
formity  of  the  scene. 

With  a  fresh  and  favourable  wind,  we  sailed  along  the 
abrupt  and  precipitous  shores,  and  came  to  anchor  in  the 
famous  port  of  Yaletta.  Three  promontories,  their  sum¬ 
mits  fretted  with  artillery,  frown  down  upon  the  triune 
harbour.  Along  the  city  walls,  from  Castle  Ovo  to  the 
extreme  point  on  the  right,  are  lines  of  fortifications, 
relieved  here  and  there  by  some  towering  Saracenic 
structure,  presenting,  in  graceful  contrast, 

u  The  Moorish  window  and  the  massive  wall.” 

Here,  too,  has  Napoleon  been !  From  Moscow  to  Cairo, 
where  has  he  not  ? 

W e  rowed  around  in  our  boat,  and  in  the  upper  harbour 
saw  a  number  of  towering  three-deckers  and  heavy  line- 
of-battle  ships  moored  in  formidable  array.  One  of  the 
latter,  some  hours  afterwards,  passed  us,  outward  bound ; 
and  by  the  side  of  our  little  ship  she  looked,  indeed,  like 


DEPARTURE  FROM  MALTA.  35 

a  huge  leviathan.  She  sailed  by  “ majestically  slow;” 
her  hull,  her  armament,  her  spars  and  sails,  presenting  a 
perfect  combination  of  graceful  symmetry  and  gigantic 
strength.  The  deepest  silence  prevailed,  broken  only  by 
the  ripple  of  the  water  beneath  her  bows,  and  the  occa¬ 
sional  voice  of  her  commander,  who,  whether  despotic  or 
humane,  had  the  true  urbanity  of  a  gentleman.  As  with 
the  gathering  wind  his  ship  swept  by,  he  caught  sight  of 
our  pennant  and  descried  our  uniform,  when,  instantly 
crossing  the  deck,  he  courteously  and  gracefully  saluted 
us.  If  ever  the  republican  dogs  of  war  are  to  be  again 
let  loose,  Heaven  grant  that  it  may  be  against  a  foe  so 
well  worthy  of  a  grapple  in  the  honourable  trial  at  arms. 

As  we  were  not  admitted  to  pratique,  we  saw  nothing 
more  of  Malta,  but  left  it  at  sunset.  Having  once  before 
been  there,  I  bear  in  vivid  remembrance  her  many  scenes 
teeming  with  interest.  The  bay  and  the  cave,  spots  con¬ 
secrated  by  the  shipwreck  and  the  miraculous  preserva¬ 
tion  of  the  great  Apostle  of  the  Gentiles :  her  armory, 
with  its  shields  and  swords,  and  her  rare  and  exquisite 
gardens. 

Saturday,  Feb.  12.  At  daylight,  made  the  Island  of 
Cerigo,  the  ancient  Cythera,  upon  which  was  wafted  at 
her  birth  the  Goddess  of  Love  and  Beauty.  It  is  also 
reputed  to  have  been  the  birth-place  of  Helen,  the  frail 
heroine  of  the  Trojan  war. 

Passing  under  easy  sail,  between  Cerigo  and  Ovo, 
leaving  Candia  (ancient  Crete)  to  the  south,  we  entered 
the  blue  Egean,  and  had  the  Group  of  the  Cyclades  before 
us  as  we  turned  to  the  north.  In  the  course  of  the  day 
we  saw  Milo,  famed  for  its  spacious  harbour  and  its  excel- 


36 


THE  GRECIAN  SHORES. 


lent  wine ;  Paros  for  its  marble  quarries,  and  Anti-Paros 
for  its  celebrated  grotto,  deemed  one  of  the  wonders  of 
the  world. 

Sailing  through  the  Sporadic  group,  we  passed  the 
Gulf  of  Athens,  and  saw  Cape  Colonna,  (ancient  promon¬ 
tory  of  Sunium,  where  Plato  taught,  and  where  are  the 
ruins  of  a  temple  of  Minerva. 

Greece !  poetic  Greece !  but  that  my  soul  is  engrossed 
by  one  pervading  thought,  how  I  would  love  to  visit  thy 
shores !  How  have  I  loved  to  follow  the  muse  in  this 
favoured  land !  How  delighted  to  pursue  the  arts,  and 
trace  the  history  of  this  wonderful  people  !  How  ad¬ 
mired  the  chaste  philosophy  of  Greece,  springing  with 
Corinthian  beauty  into  life,  amid  the  storms  of  sedition, 
and  bending,  like  the  brilliant  Iris,  her  beautiful  bow  in 
the  clouds  which  had  overshadowed  her  sleeping  oracles ! 
The  bold  and  inquisitive  spirit  of  Grecian  philosophy 
could  not  be  fettered  by  a  loose  and  voluptuous  religion, 
however  graceful  in  its  structure  and  poetical  in  its  con¬ 
ceptions.  Grecian  philosophy,  reflecting  the  early  rays 
of  revelation,  more  powerful  than  the  Titans,  scaled  the 
pagan  Heaven,  and  overthrew  its  multitude  of  gods. 

Did  time  permit,  how  I  would  love  to  look  upon  the 
Piraeus  and  the  Acropolis !  Upon  the  place  where 
Socrates,  in  the  dispensation  of  a  wise  Providence,  was 
permitted  to  shake  the  pillars  of  Olympus,  and  where  the 
Apostle  of  Truth,  in  the  midst  of  crumbling  shrines  and 
silenced  deities,  proclaimed  to  the  Athenians  the  Unknown 
God ,  whom,  with  divided  glory,  they  had  so  long  wor¬ 
shipped  in  vain. 

Continuing  our  route  through  the  Sporades,  between 
Ipsari  and  Scio,  of  sad  celebrity,  we  rounded,  on  the 
morning  of  the  15th,  the  promontory  of  Bouroun,  and 
entered  the  Gulf  of  Smyrna. 

P.  M.  By  a  sudden  transition  from  the  fresh  head-wind 


SMYRNA. 


37 


without,  we  were  now  floating  upon  the  placid  bosom  of 
a  beautiful  bay,  with  our  wing-like  sails  spread  to  a  light 
and  favouring  breeze. 

Far  beyond  the  shore,  might  be  seen  the  snowy  crest  of 
the  Mysian  Olympus.  We  passed  in  sight  of  the  first 
Turkish  town,  with  its  little  cubes  of  flat-roofed  houses, 
and  its  groves  and  trees,  so  refreshing  to  the  eye  after 
the  Grecian  isles,  all  brown  and  barren.  It  is  the  ancient 
Phocoea. 

The  bay  was  dotted  with  the  numerous  sails  of 
feluccas,  outward  and  inward  bound.  As  we  passed,  the 
Bay  of  Yourla  opened  on  our  right,  —  and  on  the  left, 
were  some  remarkable  green  hills,  —  and  beyond  them, 
a  long,  very  long,  low  track,  with  a  barely  visible  assem¬ 
blage  of  white  dots  beyond.  It  was  Ismir !  Infidel  Ismir ! 
Christian  Smyrna !  The  setting  sun  empurpled  the  neigh¬ 
bouring  mountains,  gilding  here  and  shadowing  there,  in 
one  soft  yet  glorious  hue,  lending  a  characteristic  enchant¬ 
ment  to  our  first  view  of  an  Oriental  city. 

The  wind  failing,  we  anchored  about  eight  miles  from 
Smyrna,  near  Agamemnon’s  wells.  Abreast,  was  fort 
Sanjak  Salassi,  with  its  little  turrets  and  big  port-holes, 
even  with  the  ground,  whence  protruded  the  cavernous 
throats  of  heavy  guns,  entirely  disproportioned  to  the 
scale  of  the  fortifications. 

Our  eyes  were  here  refreshed  with  the  sight  of  rich 
olive-groves;  Turkish  villages  embowered  among  trees, 
many  of  the  latter  covered  with  blossoms,  interspersed 
with  the  melancholy  cypress  (the  vegetable  obelisk),  and 
backed  by  a  range  of  verdant  mountains  beyond. 

Wednesday,  Feb.  16.  The  scene  which  this  morning 
presented  to  our  admiring  eyes,  was  one  of  surpassing 
loveliness.  To  the  north  and  west  was  a  sheet  of  placid 
water,  with  cloud-capped  mountains  in  the  distance. 
Before  us  was  the  city,  overshadowed  by  a  lofty  peak, 

4 


38 


ORIENTAL  SCENES. 


the  snow-crowned  summit  of  which  glittered  in  the  rays 
of  the  rising  sun.  On  an  abrupt  platform,  immediately 
beneath  it,  were  the  embattled  towers  of  a  once  formidable 
castle;  from  thence,  on  a  descending  slope,  which  spread 
its  base  until  it  reached  the  water,  the  houses  were 
thickly  clustered ;  while  here  and  there  a  swelling  dome, 
and  lofty,  pyramidal  spire,  indicated  a  mosque,  with  its 
attendant  minaret. 

But  on  the  right  was  the  most  exquisite  feature.  A 
narrow,  but  most  luxuriant  valley  skirted  the  base  of  a 
rangb  of  mountains  to  the  south,  and,  from  the  lofty  bar¬ 
ricade  to  the  very  verge  of  the  bay,  presented  one  ena¬ 
melled  mead  of  verdure  and  bloom.  The  grass  and  cereal 
grains  had  all  the  vivid  tints  of  early  spring,  while  the 
white  and  the  pink  blossoms  of  the  nectarine  and  the 
almond  were  interspersed  with  the  graver  hue  of  the 
dark  and  abounding  olive.  While  enjoying  the  scene, 
we  heard  the  tinkling  of  bells,  and  looking  to  the  left, 
beheld  a  caravan  of  camels  rounding  a  distant  hill.  In  a 
long  line,  one  after  the  other,  slowly,  sedately,  with  mea¬ 
sured  strides,  they  passed  along  the  road  towards  the 
west.  Each  one  was  laden  with  heavy  packages,  except 
two,  which  had  women  and  children  perched  high  upon 
their  uneven  backs. 

11  A.  M.  Sail  up  and  anchor  off  the  city  of  Smyrna. 

Thursday,  Feb.  17.  With  the  first  dawn  of  day  we 
were  amused  watching  the  deck  of  an  Austrian  steamer, 
which  arrived,  during  the  night,  from  Constantinople. 

With  the  sun,  up  rose  Turks,  Greeks,  and  Armenians, 
shaking  and  settling  themselves  in  their  strange  and  gor¬ 
geous  costumes.  There  were  magnificent  Turks  with 
blessed  beards,  clothed  in  multitudinous  garments,  with  a 
whole  armory  of  pistols  and  daggers  stuck  in  their  sashes. 
One  old  fellow  was  particularly  striking,  in  a  drab- 
coloured  capote  and  a  white  beard,  smoking  his  chi- 


/ 


TURKISH  WOMEN. 


39 


bouque  in  dignified  abstraction  from  the  world  around 
him.  There  were  two  or  three  Persians,  with  black 
beards  of  extraordinary  unction,  and  high,  black,  conical 
caps.  There  was  one,  a  perfect  magician,  with  beard 
blacker  than  a  raven’s  plume,  and  a  lofty  brow,  pale  as 
alabaster.  There  were  Turkish  officers  and  soldiers, 
Greeks  and  Armenians,  all  with  the  red  tarbouch;  and 
lastly,  a  sailor-looking  man,  with  his  hands  independently 
thrust  into  his  pea-jacket  pockets. 

They  all  passed  near  us  on  their  way  from  the  steamer 
to  the  shore.  Among  them  were  several  women,  with 
ugly,  white  muslin  drawn  over  their  faces,  —  closely 
veiled.  One  of  the  latter  we  were  particularly  anxious 
to  see,  as  she  accompanied  a  rich  old  Turk  with  a  perfect 
boat-load  of  goods  and  chattels.  As  she  passed,  one  hand 
was  exposed  from  beneath  the  folds  of  the  muslin.  Do 
the  Turkish  ladies  wear  black  gloves?  Credat  Judaeus 
Apella !  Let  the  circumcised  Jew  believe  it !  Can  a 
Christian  credit  that  she  was  a  Nubian,  of  the  deepest 
Cimmerian  tint  ? 

We  landed  and  passed  into  the  streets,  the  narrow, 
winding  ways  of  Smyrna.  How  strange  everything 
seems !  After  all  one  has  fancied  of  an  eastern  city,  how 
different  is  the  reality !  The  streets  are  very  narrow 
and  dark,  and  filled  with  a  motley  and,  in  general,  a 
dirty  population — passing  to  and  fro,  or  sitting  in  their 
stalls,  for  they  deserve  no  better  name.  Greeks,  Arme¬ 
nians,  and  Jews,  seem  to  prevail. 

But  the  most  striking,  living  feature  of  the  east  is  the 
long  strings  of  camels,  huge,  meek-looking  beasts,  with 
long  necks  and  small  projecting  heads,  tramping  along 
under  enormous  loads,  with  their  great  pulpy,  India- 
rubber  splay  feet,  threatening  to  bear  down  everything 
in  their  onward  march.  Again  and  again  we  were  com¬ 
pelled  to  slip  into  the  open  stalls  to  avoid  being  crushed. 


40 


MOSQUES,  BATHS,  AMD  STREETS. 

At  length  we  adopted  the  precaution  of  each  one  keeping 
under  the  lee,  as  sailors  term  it,  of  a  heavily  laden  camel, 
for  it  was  not  only  necessary  to  avoid  the  camels  and 
little  donkeys,  hut  also  dirty,  ragged,  staggering,  over¬ 
laden  porters,  whose  touch  threatened  not  only  to  com¬ 
municate  the  plague,  but  also  whole  detachments  of  the 
insect  tribes  of  Egypt. 

We  proposed  entering  a  mosque,  but  as  we  were  required 
to  take  off  our  boots,  and  the  pavement  was  damp  and 
dirty,  we  deferred  the  gratification  of  our  curiosity  until 
we  had  visited  Constantinople. 

We  came  to  the  same  resolution  with  respect  to  a  bath, 
the  one  we  looked  into  being  repulsive  from  its  filth  and 
slovenliness,  and  far  too  public  for  our  ideas  of  propriety. 
Our  consul,  Mr.  Offiey,  an  honour  to  his  name  and  to  the 
position  he  fills,  told  us  that  he  once  took  a  Turkish 
bath,  but  never  repeated  the  operation. 

The  city  of  Smyrna,  so  inviting  in  its  exterior,  is 
crowded,  dirty,  and  unprepossessing  within.  The  houses, 
excepting  those  on  the  Marina,  or  Water  front,  rarely 
exceed  one  story  in  height,  and  are  dingy  and  mean ;  and 
the  very  mosques,  so  imposing  from  without,  fall  far  short 
of  the  conceptions  of  the  visitant. 

The  Smyrniotes  have  fair  complexions,  much  fairer, 
we  think,  than  the  people  of  the  Morea,  and  very  much 
more  so  than  the  Kurds,  Armenians,  Syrians,  and  Jews. 

The  River  Meles,  sacred  to  Homer,  in  winter  a  foaming 
torrent,  but  in  summer  scarce  a  flowing  stream,  runs  in 
a  northerly  direction,  along  the  eastern  limits  of  the  city. 
On  the  line  of  travel  to  the  East,  it  is  spanned  by  the 
caravan  bridge,  the  great  halting-place  of  returning  and 
departing  caravans.  As  we  saw  it,  the  river  was  a  shal¬ 
low  stream,  not  half  filling  the  space  between  the  widely 
separated  banks.  Kneeling  on  the  sands,  on  each  side 
of  the  river,  above  and  below  the  bridge,  were  many  hun- 


TURKISH  CEMETERIES. 


41 


dreds  of  camels,  with  their  heavy  packs  beside  them.  It 
was  the  hour  of  feeding,  and,  arranged  with  their  heads 
in  the  centres  of  circles,  of  which  their  tails  formed  the 
peripheries,  without  noise,  they  ate  the  dry  straw  which 
was  placed  before  them.  While  we  looked  on,  the  hour 
elapsed,  and  the  burdens  were  replaced  on  the  backs  of 
the  patient  animals.  Although  constituting  a  number  of 
separate  caravans,  they  were  all,  evidently,  subject  to  the 
same  regulations.  At  a  given  signal,  they  slowly  raised 
first  one  foot  and  then  another  from  beneath  them,  and 
then,  with  a  peculiar  cry,  plaintive  yet  discordant,  jerked 
themselves,  as  it  were,  to  an  erect  position.  The  turbaned 
drivers,  the  uncouth,  patient  camels,  and  the  tinkling 
bells,  formed  a  scene  truly  Asiatic. 

Turning  from  the  throng  of  living  beings,  we  passed 
immediately  through  an  extensive  grove  of  dark,  funereal 
cypress,  every  interval  between  the  tall,  symmetrical  trees 
being  covered  with  Turkish  tomb-stones.  These  are 
mostly  two  erect  slabs  of  marble,  one  at  the  head  and  the 
other  at  the  foot  of  each  grave,  their  flat  surfaces  turned 
towards  the  highway  and  covered  with  Turkish  or  Arabic 
inscriptions,  usually  in  gilt  letters,  recounting  the  name 
and  character  of  the  deceased.  The  head-stones  of  the 
males  have  invariably  a  carved  turban,  coloured  red  or 
green,  according  to  the  family  of  the  deceased.  On  the 
head-stones  of  the  females,  carved  rose-branches  are  gene¬ 
rally  seen. 

Some  of  the  old  head-stones  had  carved  on  them  the 
implements  of  the  trades  pursued  in  life  by  the  tenants 
beneath.  The  hammer  and  the  saw  denoted  the  car¬ 
penter  ;  the  last,  the  shoemaker ;  the  trowel,  the  mason, 
and  the  shears,  the  tailor.  We  were  told,  that  in  the 
vicinity  of  Constantinople  there  are  some  with  the  gal¬ 
lows  carved  on  them,  indicating  that  those  beneath  had, 
by  that  instrument,  met  their  doom.  It  is  further  said, 
4  * 


42 


PUNISHMENT  OF  CRIME. 


that  in  the  times  of  Turkish  despotism,  a  man’s  family 
deemed  it  a  sure  and  convincing  proof  of  the  wealth  or 
talent  of  their  ancestor,  if  he  had  been  considered  of 
sufficient  importance  to  be  executed. 

The  bowstring  and  the  scimetar  have  now  superseded 
the  ignominious  gallows.  The  day  will  come,  and  is 
coming,  when  the  public  mind  in  every  enlightened  com¬ 
munity  will  shrink  with  horror  from  the  infliction  of  the 
punishment  of  death.  But,  until  the  minds  of  men  are 
more  enlightened,  and  their  conduct  influenced  more  by 
holy  aspirations  than  base,  ignoble  fears,  there  necessarily 
must  be  an  inflexibly  restraining  power. 

How  beautiful  is  the  moral  of  the  eastern  allegory 
in  relation  to  punishment!  The  Brahmins  represent 
Punishment  as  the  son  of  the  Deity,  and  the  security 
of  the  four  orders  of  the  state.  He  rules  with  a  sceptre 
of  iron,  and  from  the  beasts  of  the  field  to  the  children 
of  men,  the  order  can  never  be  violated  with  impunity. 
He  is  the  perfection  of  justice.  All  classes  would  become 
corrupt ;  all  barriers  would  be  overthrown,  and  confusion 
would  prevail  upon  the  face  of  the  earth,  if  punishment 
either  ceased  to  be  inflicted  or  were  inflicted  unjustly. 
But,  while  the  Genius  of  Punishment,  with  his  dark 
countenance  and  fiery  eye,  presses  forward  to  extirpate 
crime,  the  people  are  secure  if  justice  be  impartial. 

Crime,  like  a  leprous  cancer,  spreads  from  individuals 
to  nations.  It  should  be  the  duty,  therefore,  of  a  Chris¬ 
tian  to  oppose  everything  which  tends  to  corrupt  morals 
and  promote  licentiousness.  History,  with  her  grave 
and  solemn  countenance,  constantly  admonishes  us,  that, 
whatever  may  have  been  the  immediate  cause  of  national 
calamities,  licentiousness  of  morals  has  always  preceded 
and  precipitated  the  catastrophe.  The  political  revolu¬ 
tions  which  have  most  afflicted  mankind  were  introduced 
by  an  era  of  national  profligacy.  Charles  was  the  natural 


Vi 


NECESSITY  OF  PUNISHMENT.  43 

precursor  of  Cromwell,  and  Cromwell  the  fit  successor  of 
Charles.  The  licentious  cavalier  was  aptly  followed  by 
the  stern  and  formal  Puritan.  The  morals,  the  litera¬ 
ture,  the  religion  of  the  English  nation  had  become 
utterly  depraved,  and  the  interposition  of  the  Genius  of 
Punishment,  the  Avenger  of  crime,  the  security  of  the 
four  orders  of  government,  became  necessary,  to  chastise 
and  to  correct.  The  sufferings  of  the  nation  were  terrific, 
but  its  crimes  had  been  enormous. 

But,  as  if  to  teach  mankind  a  lesson  which  tradition 
could  never  forget,  the  crimes  of  the  French  people  were 
permitted  to  accumulate  until  Paris  rivalled  Sodom  in 
iniquity :  and,  perhaps,  the  sudden  and  consuming  wrath 
which  fell  upon  the  city  of  the  plain,  was  mercy  compared 
with  the  protracted  sufferings  of  this  abandoned  people. 
If  the  world  shuddered  at  the  enormity  of  their  crimes, 
nations  grew  pale  at  the  intensity  of  their  sufferings. 
The  Avenger  of  crime  again  exacted  the  full  measure  of 
retribution. 

Alas !  man,  whether  in  his  individual  or  social  capa¬ 
city,  is  a  frail  and  rebellious  creature,  and  the  sternest 
sanctions  of  the  law  have,  in  all  ages,  been  required  for 
the  maintenance  of  peace  and  order.  But,  all  the  force 
of  the  law  has,  under  every  frame  of  government,  been 
found  insufficient  to  repress  the  spirit  of  insubordination. 
The  strong  impulse  of  the  passions,  and  the  hope  of  im¬ 
punity,  still  impel  daring  and  wicked  men  to  commit  the 
most  detestable  and  atrocious  crimes. 

The  Genius  of  Punishment,  therefore,  with  his  dark 
countenance  and  fiery  eye,  must  yet  awhile  longer  fre¬ 
quent  the  haunts  of  the  children  of  men.  These  reflec¬ 
tions  have  been  indulged,  in  order  to  strengthen  the  mind 
to  contemplate  a  dire  necessity,  and  to  prepare  it  for  the 
recital  of  a  shocking  circumstance  attendant  on  a  legal 
execution  here. 


44  REVOLTING  EXECUTION. 

A  criminal  was  recently  condemned  to  death,  and  the 
mode  adjudged  was  decapitation.  He  was  led  forth  into 
one  of  the  public  streets,  and  duly  prepared.  The  clumsy 
executioner,  unable  to  strike  off  the  head  with  repeated 
blows,  deliberately,  with  a  saw,  severed  the  hacked  and 
disfigured  head  from  the  convulsively  writhing  trunk. 

The  heart  sickens  at  the  recital.  It  is  painful  to  hear, 
—  most  painful,  on  the  best  authority,  to  narrate  an  inci¬ 
dent  so  harrowing.  Were  I  to  consult  my  inclinations, 
my  pen  should,  like  the  sun-dial,  note  “  those  hours  only 
which  are  serene.”  But,  if  I  speak  at  all,  it  is  my  duty 
to  describe  things  exactly  as  I  find  them. 

Such  an  event  as  the  one  above  narrated  would  have 
shocked  all  England,  even  when  her  penal  laws,  like 
those  of  Draco,  were  written  in  blood ;  and  an  unhappy 
mother,  starving  herself,  was  hung  for  stealing  a  loaf  of 
bread,  wherewith  to  feed  her  starving  child. 

Even  with  such  a  fact  before  us,  it  is  difficult  to  say 
whether  the  Ottoman  government  is  most  a  despotic  or  a 
patriarchal  one.  Certain  it  is,  that  if  the  late  barbarous 
execution  were  made  known  to  him,  the  humane  heart 
of  the  Sultan  would  shrink  with  horror,  as  much  as  that 
of  any  Christian.  Unhappily,  he  is  kept  in  most  pro¬ 
found  ignorance,  and  every  thing  calculated  to  give  him 
pain,  or  excite  his  mind  to  inquiry,  is  sedulously  excluded. 
Such  is  the  account  given  by  intelligent  Franks,  long 
resident  in  his  dominions. 

The  country  around  Smyrna  is  highly  cultivated,  and 
the  benignant  soil  and  genial  climate  amply  repay  the 
toil  of  the  husbandman.  Less  productive  of  the  cereal 
grains,  its  vintage  and  its  crops  of  fruit  are  most  superior 
and  abundant.  Except  the  mountain  sides,  which  are 
sparsely  covered  with  brushwood,  the  frequent  groves  of 
cypress,  each  denoting  a  burial-place,  and  the  clusters  of 
orange  trees  around  the  villas  of  the  wealthy,  the  surface 


ENVIRONS  OF  SMYRNA. 


45 


of  the  country  is  thickly  dotted  with  the  olive  and  the 
almond,  the  mulberry  and  the  fig-tree.  Smyrna  is  parti¬ 
cularly  celebrated  for  an  exquisitely  flavoured  and  seed¬ 
less  grape,  and  for  the  superior  quality  of  its  figs. 

It  is  also  one  of  the  claimants  for  the  birth-place  of 
Homer,  the  blind  old  bard,  whose  fame  was  purely  posthu¬ 
mous  !  The  Grecian  virgins  scattered  garlands  through¬ 
out  the  seven  islands  of  Greece,  upon  the  turf,  beneath 
which  were  supposed  to  lie  the  remains  of  him ,  who  wan¬ 
dered  in  penury  and  obscurity  through  life,  or  only  sang 
passages  of  his  divine  poem  at  the  festive  board  of  his 
contemporaries.  We  were  shown  his  cave — but  I  will  no 
longer  trust  myself  to  speak  of  him,  whom 

w  I  feel,  but  want  the  power  to  paint.” 

We  also  visited  Diana’s  bath,  whence  Acteon’s  hounds, 
like  many  a  human  ingrate  after  them,  pursued  and  tore 
the  hand  that  had  caressed  them. 

Meeting  with  an  acquaintance  of  one  of  the  party,  he 
invited  us  to  his  country-seat  at  Bournabat,  which  is  the 
summer  resort  of  the  Franks,  and  a  great  place  of  attrac¬ 
tion  without  the  walls  of  Smyrna. 

Mounted  upon  diminutive  donkeys  with  enormous  ears, 
in  the  course  of  the  ride  everybody’s  stirrups  broke  away, 
and  everybody’s  pack-saddle  turned  so  easily,  that  each 
one  found  it  difficult  to  preserve  his  seat.  Steering  with 
a  halter,  our  only  bridle,  we  scoured  along  the  road  and 
soon  entered  upon  a  plain  covered  with  rich  plantations 
of  olives  and  figs,  with  many  nectarine  and  almond  trees 
in  full  bloom,  and  villas,  here  and  there,  embowered  in 
orange  groves, — the  flatness  of  the  landscape  relieved  by 
clustering  spires  of  the  dark  cypress,  their  tall  stems  ex¬ 
panding  high  in  air,  in  graceful  and  luxuriant  foliage. 

We  alighted  before  an  elegant  villa,  and  entering  a 
porte-cochere,  passed  along  an  avenue  bordered  with  fra- 


46 


A  TURKISH  GARDEN. 


grant  shrubs  and  a  variety  of  flowers,  with  orange-groves 
on  each  side,  and  up  a  lofty  flight  of  steps  into  the  main 
building,  which  was  beautifully  furnished  in  the  European 
style.  After  a  while,  we  were  conducted  through  the 
garden,  upon  walks  of  variegated  pebbles,  set  in  diamond 
figures.  We  were  thence  led  to  a  small  kiosk,  or  summer¬ 
house,  where  pipes  were  brought  by  female  servants  of 
decided  Grecian  features.  A  queen-like  old  lady,  dressed 
in  a  blue  silk  sack,  trimmed  with  rich  fur,  and  wearing 
upon  her  head  a  braided  turban  interwreathed  with 
natural  flowers  and  silver  ornaments,  was  introduced  to 
us  by  our  kind  entertainer  as  his  mother.  Presently,  a 
silver  salver  was  brought,  with  small  dishes  of  the  same 
material  upon  it,  containing  conserves  of  various  kinds. 
Taking  it  from  the  servant,  the  superb  old  lady  handed  it 
to  each  of  us  in  turn,  not  omitting  her  son.  This  is  one 
of  the  customs  of  the  East  which  so  peculiarly  differ  from 
our  own.  Here  man  is  indeed  the  sole  monarch  of  crea¬ 
tion  ;  but  his  degradation  of  the  female  sex  recoils  fear¬ 
fully  upon  himself. 

After  wandering  about  beneath  the  shade  of  the  orange 
and  the  cypress,  admiring  the  night-blooming  cereus,  and 
inhaling  the  fragrance  of  the  rose  and  the  jasmine,  and 
examining  the  old-time  Persian  water-wheel  and  artificial^ 
mode  of  irrigation,  we  entered  a  saloon  where  an  oriental 
collation  of  fruits  and  cream  had  been  prepared  for  us. 
Although  the  month  of  February,  the  climate  was  that 
of  summer. 

Returning,  we  trotted  merrily  along  the  rich  alluvial 
plain,  carpeted  with  the  young  grain  just  springing  from 
the  earth.  Near  Smyrna,  we  observed  a  fig-tree  thickly 
hung  with  shreds  of  cloth,  of  every  hue  and  texture.  It 
is  a  common  practice  among  ignorant  Muslims,  who  be¬ 
lieve  that  a  piece  of  a  sick  person’s  garment  suspended 


A  TURKISH  JANISSARY.  47 

from  a  tree  near  the  tomb  of  a  Santon  or  Mahommedan 
saint,  will  promote  the  recovery  of  the  wearer. 

Emerging  from  the  gloom  of  a  dense  cypress  grove, 
which  overshadows  thousands  of  Muslim  tombstones,  we 
came  upon  the  caravan  bridge,  which  spans  the  Meles 
with  its  single  arch.  It  was  the  same  we  had  before  seen, 
but  at  a  different  hour  and  under  a  different  aspect.  On 
the  banks,  below  the  bridge,  were  hundreds  of  camels  re¬ 
posing  for  the  night.  The  setting  sun  shone  upon  the 
red  and  blue  and  yellow  saddle-cloths,  while  the  pictu¬ 
resque  costumes  of  the  Mukris  or  camel-drivers,  grouped 
listlessly  about,  relieved  the  dun  colour  of  the  caravan 
with  a  pleasing  effect.  It  was  a  rich,  golden,  oriental 
sunset,  worthy  of  the  pencil  of  a  Claude  Lorraine. 

Keturning  through  the  city,  the  same  strange  scenes 
presented  themselves  as  on  our  first  arrival.  The  variety 
of  costume ;  the  filthy,  unpaved  lanes  for  streets,  and 
the  necessity  of  giving  way  before  the  onward  tramp  of  a 
line  of  loaded  camels  or  a  mud-bespattering  donkey.  We 
were  much  assisted,  however,  by  the  consul’s  janissary, 
who  did  his  best  to  clear  the  way  before  us.  Consuls  and 
other  foreign  officials  in  Turkey  are  allowed,  as  guards,  a 
certain  number  of  janissaries  or  kavashes,  recognized  and 
appointed  for  that  purpose  by  the  Turkish  government. 
This  janissary  is  always  heavily  armed,  and  possessing 
much  authority,  is  very  cavalier  in  his  treatment  of  the 
common  people.  He  is  ever  a  Turk,  and  with  his  long, 
silver-mounted  baton,  preceding  the  consul  or  his  guests, 
is  the  very  picture  of  solemn  self-sufficiency. 


CHAPTER  IV. 


SMYRNA  TO  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Friday,  Feb.  18.  At  5,  P.  M.,  embarked  in  the  Aus¬ 
trian  steamer  “  Prince  Metternich,”  for  Constantinople. 
When  fairly  under  way,  her  decks  presented  as  motley 
an  assemblage  as  I  ever  beheld.  Abaft,  on  the  larboard 
side,  near  the  helmsman,  were  two  groups  of  females, 
consisting  of  five  Asiatics  and  two  Africans.  All,  mis¬ 
tresses  and  slaves  (for  they  bore  that  relation  to  each 
other),  had  the  upper  and  the  lower  parts  of  their  faces 
concealed  by  the  u  yashmak,”  a  thin,  white  muslin  veil, 
so  arranged  as  to  leave  only  the  eyes  and  the  upper  part 
of  the  nose  exposed  to  view.  Their  bodies  were  en¬ 
veloped  in  the  “  ferejeh,”  a  narrow-skirted  cloak,  of  a  thin 
worsted  material,  with  a  cape  extending  down  behind,  the 
full  length  and  breadth  of  the  body ;  five  of  them  were 
yellow,  and  two  a  dingy  purple,  —  the  colour  irrespective 
of  mistress  or  slave. 

One  of  the  groups  consisted  of  an  Armenian  family,  and 
on  this  occasion  their  dress,  in  no  particular,  varied  from 
that  of  the  Turks.  It  is  said,  however,  that  in  the  capital 
the  Turkish  female  may  be  distinguished  by  the  red  or 
yellow  ferejeh,  and  the  invariable  yellow  boot  or  slipper. 
In  this  group  there  was  little  distinction  in  the  quality 
of  dress,  and  there  seemed  to  be  very  little  reserve  in  the 
demeanour  of  the  whites  towards  the  blacks.  Certainly 
the  latter  conceal  their  faces  as  studiously  as  their  mis¬ 
tresses.  They  were  all  seated  upon  rugs,  placed  on  boards 

elevated  a  few  inches  above  the  deck,  and  were  busied 

(48) 


DEPARTURE  FROM  SMYRNA.  49 

making  preparations  to  pass  the  night  in  the  positions 
they  occupied. 

In  advance  of  them,  extending  to  the  break  of  the 
quarter-deck,  were  various  groups  of  the  most  respectable 
class  of  male  passengers  ;  and  beyond  them,  on  both  sides 
of  the  deck,  for  two-thirds  the  length  of  the  ship,  was 
clustered  a  heterogeneous  assemblage  of  lower  grade,  con¬ 
sisting,  like  that  on  the  quarter-deck,  of  Turks,  Greeks, 
Armenians,  Jews,  and  Syrians.  Many  wore  the  turban 
either  white  or  variously  coloured,  except  the  despised 
Jew,  whose  brows  were  enveloped  in  sable.  But  most  of 
them  had  on  the  crimson  tarbouch,  with  a  long  blue  or 
black  silken  tassel  pendent  from  the  crown.  Their  under¬ 
dress  was  wholly  concealed  by  the  universal  “Grego,”  a 
long,  heavy,  brown  woollen  coat,  with  a  hood,  and  orna¬ 
mented  with  scarlet  cord  and  facings. 

With  their  feet  drawn  beneath  them,  they  were,  like 
tailors,  squatted  (those  who  had  them)  upon  rugs,  with 
their  baggage  piled  around  them,  and  each  with  the  stem 
of  a  chibouque,  or  a  narghile,  in  his  mouth. 

There  is  no  bar  for  the  sale  of  intoxicating  liquors  on 
board.  All  is  orderly  and  quiet,  and  there  is  neither 
quarrelling  nor  loud  discussion.  In  sobriety,  at  least,  the 
Turk  is  a  fit  model  for  imitation. 

We  swept  with  great  rapidity  up  the  beautiful  Gulf  of 
Smyrna,  and  early  in  the  night  entered  the  channel  of 
Mitylene,  between  the  Island  of  Mitylene  (the  ancient 
Lesbos)  and  the  main.  This  large  and  fertile  island, 
placed  at  the  mouth  of  the  Adramatic  Gulf,  derived  its 
ancient  name  from  one  of  its  kings,  who  reigned  before 
the  Deucalion  flood.  It  is  the  birth-place  of  Sappho, 
and  was  considered  by  the  ancients  the  seventh  in  the 
Egean  Sea.  First  governed  by  its  own  kings,  and  then 
by  a  democracy,  it  has  been  subject  to  the  Persians,  the 


50 


MORNING  DEVOTIONS. 


Athenians,  the  Macedonians,  the  Romans,  the  Y enetians, 
and  the  Turks. 

11  P.  M.  Enveloped  in  their  Gregos,  their  cloaks  and 
various  coverings,  the  deck  passengers,  screened  from  the 
sight,  sleep  profoundly;  and,  from  sheer  weariness,  we 
retired  below  to  enjoy  “  the  balmy  blessings  of  the  night.” 

Feb.  19.  This  morning,  the  deck  presented  a  singular 
scene.  Its  whole  surface  was  one  uninterrupted  range 
of  tumuli,  beneath  each  one  of  which  reposed  a  human 
being.  Not  having  been  sheltered  by  awnings,  their 
clothing,  saturated  by  the  rain  which  had  fallen  during 
the  night,  was  reeking  from  animal  heat,  and  rising  and 
falling  with  the  light  or  heavy  breathing  of  the  sleepers 
beneath.  » 

“  The  low  hung  vapours,  motionless  and  still, 

Rest  on  the  summit  of  each  tiny  hill.” 

As  the  day  dawned  they  severally  arose,  and  the  first  act 
of  each  one  was  to  throw  himself  on  his  knees,  with  his 
face,  as  he  supposed,  towards  the  Kebla  of  Mecca  (some 
sadly  erring  in  the  quarter  of  the  compass),  and  with 
many  prostrations,  which  from  time  to  time  were  repeated, 
commenced  the  morning  prayer,  a  series  of  recitations 
from  the  Koran.  Some  stuck  their  daggers  into  the  deck, 
a  short  space  before  them,  which  was  respected  as  sacred 
by  those  who,  having  finished  their  devotions,  wandered 
about  the  ship.  The  most  of  them  were  seemingly  ab¬ 
stracted,  but  it  was  evident  that  some  were  satisfactorily 
conscious  of  being  observed. 

One  thing  may  be  said  of  the  benighted  Turk :  he  is 
never  ashamed  of  his  religion.  No  human  respect  in¬ 
fluences  him  to  shrink  from  an  open  avowal  of  his  wor¬ 
ship  ;  and  if  outward  observance  be  indicative  of  inward 
piety,  the  Turk  is  the  most  devout  of  human  beings. 
His  first  act,  when  he  awakes  in  the  morning,  is  prayer ; 
at  three  other  stated  intervals  during  the  day,  it  is 


THE  SHORES  OF  GREECE.  51 

repeated ;  and  with  the  descending  sun,  for  the  fifth  time, 
he  prostrates  himself  in  prayer. 

Every  public  and  private  deed  of  record  begins  with 
“  Bismillah,”  “  in  the  name  of  Him and  the  salute  of  a 
Turk,  when  he  meets  a  friend,  is  neither  the  “  How  are 
you?”  “How  d’ye  do?”  “How  d’ye  find  yourself?” 
“How  d’ye  carry  yourself?”  and  “How  d’ye  stand?”  of 
the  American,  the  Englishman,  the  German,  the  French¬ 
man,  the  Italian,  and  the  Spaniard, — hut  simply  “God 
preserve  you !” 

Immediately  after  their  devotions,  they  resorted  to 
their  inseparable  chibouque;  but,  as  it  is  difficult  to 
describe 

44  A  Turk,  with  beads  in  hand  and  pipe  in  mouth, 

Extremely  taken  with  his  own  religion,” 

we  turned  to  the  east,  and  beheld  Mount  Ida,  capped 
with  snow,  and  its  tributary  range,  which,  in  a  graceful 
sweep,  embraces  the  valleys  of  the  Thymbrek  and  the 
Mendere,  the  Simois  and  the  Scamander  of  the  Iliad.  A 
short  distance  from  Eski  Stambhol,  are  the  ruins  of  Alex¬ 
andria  Troas,  screened  from  the  view  by  a  thick  growth 
of  stunted  trees  and  shrubbery.  At  Lesbos  and  here,  St. 
Paul  has  been.*  On  the  left,  bearing  west,  is  the  Isle  of 
Tenedos,  in  one  of  the  ports  of  which  the  Greeks  con¬ 
cealed  their  fleet  when  they  pretended  to  have  abandoned 
the  siege  of  Troy.  Tenedos,  more  frequently  even  than 
Lesbos,  has  fallen  a  prey  to  the  conqueror. 

As  we  advanced  to  the  north,  with  the  coast  of  Phrygia 
on  the  right,  we  soon  beheld  that  of  Thrace  in  Europe 
before  us,  with  the  islands  of  Lemnos  and  Imbros  to  sea¬ 
ward.  Immediately  on  the  Phrygian  shore,  facing  the 
broad  expanse  of  the  Mediterranean,  are  two  conspicuous 

#  It  was  here  that,  in  a  vision,  St.  Paul  was  called  to  Macedonia — here 
he  restored  the  dead  to  life  —  and  here  left  his  cloak,  parchments,  and 
books.  —  Acts,  xvi.  9  ;  xx.  9  and  10.  2  Tim.  iv.  13. 


52 


THE  DARDANELLES. 

tumuli,  pointed  out  by  tradition  as  the  tombs  of  Achilles 
and  Patroclus.  The  requiem  of  the  heroic  friends  is  sung 
by  the  surging  waves,  which  break  against  the  abrupt  and 
precipitous  shore. 

To  the  north-east,  on  the  extremity  of  the  Phrygian 
shore,  is  the  Sigsean  Promontory,  crowned  with  a  castle, 
and  disfigured  with  a  town.  On  the  opposite,  or  Thracian 
shore,  with  the  Dardanelles  between,  is  Cape  Helles,  with 
a  corresponding  fortress,  and  its  unprepossessing  town 
attendant.  Near  the  European  cape,  was  fought  the 
great  naval  battle  so  fatal  to  the  Athenians. 

Turning  to  the  east,  we  rounded  Cape  Janissary  (the 
Sigaean  Promontory) ,  and  entering  the  strait,  saw  the  sup¬ 
posed  bed  of  the  Scamander,  between  which  and  the  pro¬ 
montory,  the  Grecian  fleet  was  hauled  up,  and  the  Gre¬ 
cian  hosts  encamped.  A  little  beyond,  is  another  barrow, 
said  to  be  that  of  Hecuba ;  yet  further  is  the  Phaetian  pro¬ 
montory,  on  which  also  is  a  mound,  called  the  tomb  of 
Ajax. 

The  plain  of  Troy,  so  familiar  to  every  classic  reader, 
now  barren  and  unattractive,  save  in  its  associations, 
presents  nothing  to  the  eye  until  it  rests  upon  Mount 
Olympus ;  and,  in  the  distance,  the  imagination,  fixing 
upon  the  spot  where 

u  Silver  Simois  and  Scamander  join,” 

fills  the  circumjacent  plain  with  the  lofty  towers  of 
“wide  extended  Troy,”  the  beleaguring  hosts  and  their 
dismantled  ships.  Passing  a  point  on  the  left,  designated 
as  the  first  in  Europe  whereon  was  raised  the  banner  of 
the  Saracen,  we  came  to  that  part  of  the  strait  whence 
its  other  name  of  Hellespont  is  derived. 

The  strait,  about  five  miles  wide  at  its  mouth,  narrows 
gradually  as  we  ascend,  until,  near  the  town  of  Darda¬ 
nelles,  the  lofty,  but  gently  swelling  shores  compress  the 


THE  HELLESPONT. 


53 


stream  within  the  narrowest  limits,  and  then  receding, 
leave  two  prominent  points,  Sestos  and  Abydos,  obliquely 
facing  each  other. 

The  Hellespont  teems  with  more  poetic  and  classic 
associations  than  any  other  stream  on  earth.  Its  shores 
were  the  chosen  scenes  of  the  greatest  and  most  wondrous 
epic  produced  in  any  age  or  clime ;  and,  separating  two 
great  continents,  its  swollen  and  impetuous  waters  have 
been  repeatedly  crossed  by  invading  armies ;  by  two  Per¬ 
sian  monarchs,  by  Philip’s  warlike  son,  by  the  crusading 
hosts  of  Europe,  and  by  the  Muhammedan  conqueror  of 
Constantinople. 

Its  rushing  flood  engulfed  Leander  within  hearing, 
perhaps,  of  the  thrilling  shriek  of  the  watchful  and 
agonized  Hero  :  and  it  is  left  to  the  imagination  to  decide 
whether  the  lover,  paralyzed  by  fear,  yielded  unresist¬ 
ingly,  or,  with  all  that  he  coveted  on  earth  in  view, 
grappled  with  fate,  and  struggled  manfully,  until,  with 
the  water  drumming  in  his  ear  and  gurgling  in  his  throat, 
he  sank  beneath  the  surface  as  the  last  heart-rending  cry 
swept  across  the  angry  tide. 

Here,  too,  turning  from  poetic  fiction  to  prosaic  fact, 
the  noble  bard  of  England  successfully  rivalled  the  feat 
of  Leander ;  but  for  his  reward,  instead  of  the  arms  of  a 
blooming  Hero,  found  himself  grappled  in  the  chill  em¬ 
brace  of  a  tertian  ague. 

We  stopped,  for  a  short  time,  at  Sestos  for  the  purpose 
of  landing  a  number  of  passengers,  and  the  scene  was 
extremely  amusing,  although  it  rained  incessantly.  Nu¬ 
merous  Turks,  in  the  crimson  tarbouch,  or  capacious  tur¬ 
ban,  and  yet  more  capacious  breeks,  with  a  miscellaneous 
crowd  of  Armenians,  Greeks,  Smyrniotes,  and  Syrians, 
were,  together  with  their  motley  piles  of  baggage,  huddled 
in  seemingly  inextricable  confusion  at  the  gangway, 


54 


A  TURKISH  EFFENDI. 


whence  the  Italian  baggage-master,  swearing  “  Per  corpo 
di  Bacco,”  was  endeavouring  to  drive  them  into  the  boats. 
In  clamorous  confusion  it  surpassed  the  richest  scenes  of 
Billingsgate. 

In  Mitylene,  we  received  on  board  a  dandy,  who,  in 
dress  and  smirking  self-conceit,  scarce  fell  short  of  the 
exquisite  fop  of  Broadway  in  sustaining  the  delineation 
of  the  insect.  His  tarbouch  was  higher,  and  the  long, 
blue  silk  tassel  pendent  from  it  was  more  flowing  and 
redundant,  his  purple  vest  was  more  richly  embroidered, 
his  trowsers  more  capacious,  and  his  red  morocco  boots 
more  pointed,  than  any  we  had  seen. 

At  Tenedos,  where  we  had  also  stopped,  we  received 
on  board  a  Turkish  effendi  (gentleman),  chief  of  customs 
in  the  island.  He  had  a  large  retinue  of  servants,  who 
obsequiously  attended  upon  him.  He  was  now  playing 
backgammon  with  a  Greek  officer  in  a  faded  uniform,  who 
sported  the  largest,  fiercest,  and  most  fiery  moustache  we 
had  ever  seen.  The  Turk  had  a  pleasing  countenance, 
and  although  dignified,  was  sociable.  He  was  dressed  in 
an  azure  silk  tunic,  trimmed  with  fur,  and  his  head  was 
covered  by  the  tarbouch  worn  by  all  officials,  beneath 
which  escaped  a  short  crop  of  hair.  His  air  was  gentle, 
and  his  person  clean.  His  pipe-bearer  had  brought  him 
a  superb  narghile,  a  silver  vase  eighteen  inches  high,  with 
a  flexible  tube  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  long,  wound  round 
with  silver  wire,  and  having  a  costly  amber  mouth-piece 
at  the  end.  Pie  politely  passed  it  round,  and  we  each  in 
turn  took  a  puff.  The  substance  smoked  was  not  tobacco, 
although,  as  prepared,  it  resembled  the  stem  of  that 
weed  finely  chopped.  It  was  called  “  Tombec,”  a  product 
mostly  of  Syria  and  Mesopotamia.  The  present  speci¬ 
men  was  from  Bagdad,  and  its  flavour  was  aromatic  and 
agreeable. 

But  while  we  were  sheltered  below,  the  deck-passen- 


CONSTANTINOPLE.  55 

gers  were  exposed  to  the  storm :  among  them  were  several 
females,  besides  those  I  have  mentioned. 

The  town  of  Dardanelles  (Abydos),  situated  on  the 
Asiatic  side,  is  unattractive  in  its  appearance,  but  a 
mart  of  considerable  commerce.  A  number  of  consular 
flags  wave  along  the  water-front,  and  here,  vessels  bound 
to  Constantinople,  or  to  any  of  the  ports  of  the  Euxine, 
must  await  their  firman  or  permit.  The  castles  of  the 
Dardanelles  are  formidable — the  one  on  the  Asiatic  side 
especially  so,  from  its  heavy  water-battery. 

A  little  after  sunset,  we  entered  the  sea  of  Marmara 
(White  Sea).  The  mist  and  clouds,  which  during  the 
afternoon  had  gathered  on  the  hills  of  Thrace,  were  now 
swept  towards  us,  and  discharged  copious  showers  as  they 
passed.  The  sea  and  its  surrounding  shores  were  soon 
shrouded  in  obscurity,  and  we  retired  below,  first  lending 
our  only  umbrella  to  a  group  of  females,  to  shield  them, 
in  part,  from  the  driving  rain.  Nor  could  we  suppress 
our  indignant  remarks  on  the  neglect  of  the  officers  of 
the  boat,  when  we  looked  upon  so  many  human  beings 
exposed  to  the  inclemency  of  such  a  night,  without  even 
the  protection  of  an  awning. 

When  we  retired,  we  were  told  that  the  steamer  would 
stop  until  morning  at  the  village  of  San  Stefano,  four 
leagues  this  side  of  Constantinople,  and  we  anticipated 
enjoying  the  matchless  view  which  this  city  is  said  to 
present  from,  the  sea  of  Marmara ;  but  a  bitter  disappoint¬ 
ment  awaited  us.  On  first  awaking  in  the  morning,  we 
felt  that  the  boat  was  not  in  motion,  and  hastening  imme¬ 
diately  to  the  deck,  discovered  that  we  were  anchored  in 
the  66  Golden  Horn,”  or  harbour  of  Constantinople. 

On  our  left  was  the  Seraglio,  with  the  city  of  Stambhol 
(or  Constantinople  proper)  stretching  to  the  north  and 
west,  with  a  multitudinous  collection  of  sombre  houses, 
the  dull,  brown  surfaces  of  their  tile-roofs  interrupted 


56 


BEAUTIFUL  VIEW. 


frequently  by  tbe  swelling  domes  of  mosques,  with  their 
tall  and  graceful  minarets  beside  them. 

The  “  Golden  Horn,”  three  miles  in  length,  was  filled 
with  ships  and  vessels  of  every  class,  and  rig,  and  nation 
and  hundreds  of  light  and  buoyant  caiques  flitted  to 
and  fro  among  them.  In  the  far  distance,  above  the  two 
bridges,  the  upper  one  resting  on  boats,  flanking  the  har¬ 
bour  in  an  oblique  line,  were  the  heavy  ships  of  war  of 
the  Turkish  fleet.  To  the  right,  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  harbour,  were  the  suburbs  of  Pera,  Tophana,  and 
Galata  (each  of  them  elsewhere  a  city),  with  the  tower 
of  the  last  springing  shaft-like  to  the  skies.  To  the  east, 
across  the  sea  of  Marmara,  where  it  receives  the  Bos¬ 
porus,  was  the  town  of  Scutari  (the  ancient  Chalcedon), 
where  the  fourth  general  council  of  the  Christian  church 
was  held.  Near  Scutari,  is  a  spacious  grove  of  cypress, 
shading  its  million  dead ;  and  a  high  mountain  behind  it 
overlooks  the  cities,  the  harbour,  the  sea,  the  Bosporus, 
and  the  surrounding  country. 

But,  wearied  with  the  very  vastness  of  the  field  it  is 
called  upon  to  admire,  the  eye  reverts  with  renewed 
delight  to  the  beautiful  point  of  the  Seraglio. 

A  graceful  sweep  of  palaces,  light  in  their  proportions 
and  oriental  in  their  structure,  washed  by  the  waters  of 
the  Sea  of  Marmara  and  the  “  Golden  Horn,”  look  far  up 
the  far-famed  Bosporus.  Here  and  there,  upon  the  as¬ 
cending  slope,  clustering  in  one  place,  and  dispersedly  in 
another,  many  a  cypress  shoots  up  its  dark  green  pyra¬ 
midal  head,  between  the  numerous  and  variegated  roofs. 
The  shaft-like  form  of  the  minaret  seems  to  have  been 
borrowed  from  the  cypress,  and  they  both  exquisitely 
harmonize  with  oriental  architecture.  On  the  summit  is 
a  magnificent  mosque,  its  roof  a  rounded  surface  of  domes, 
the  central  and  largest  covered  with  bronze,  and  glittering 
in  the  sun,  with  a  light  and  graceful  minaret  springing 


TURKISH  LADIES. 


57 


from  each  angle  of  its  court.  The  pen  cannot  describe, 
nor  can  the  pencil  paint,  the  beauties  of  the  scene  :  I  will 
not,  therefore,  attempt  it. 

We  landed  at  Tophana  and,  passing  a  marble  Chinese 
fountain,  elaborately  carved,  and  between  two  mosques, 
an  ancient  and  a  modern  one,  struck  directly  into  the 
narrow  and  tortuous  streets  that  wind  up  the  steep  ascent 
towards  the  Frank  quarter  in  Pera.  The  houses  are 
mostly  of  wood,  rudely  constructed,  rarely  exceeding  one 
story  in  height,  and  covered  with  a  dark-brown,  clumsy 
tile.  The  shops,  for  they  are  no  more,  are  open  to  the 
street,  each  with  a  slightly-elevated  platform,  upon  which 
the  shopkeeper  and  his  workmen  are  seated  a  la  Turque. 

We  did  not  anticipate  seeing  so  many  Turkish  females 
in  the  streets.  It  seems  that,  like  many  of  their  sex  in 
our  own  country,  they  spend  a  great  deal  of  their  time  in 
shopping.  When  abroad,  they  invariably  wear  the  yash¬ 
mak,  the  ferejeh,  and  the  clumsy  red  or  yellow  morocco 
boot  and  slipper.  The  dress  of  the  Armenian  woman  is 
almost  exactly  the  same,  and  the  Greek  women  wear  the 
Frank  costume.  The  last  is  making  rapid  encroachments, 
although  many  are  bitterly  opposed  to  it.  A  Frank  lady 
recently  visited  one  of  the  Sultanas,  when  there  were 
other  female*  visitors  present;  one  of  the  latter,  not 
knowing  that  the  Frank  lady  understood  the  Turkish 
language,  said  to  another,  “  See  how  shamelessly  the 
Frank  lady  exposes  her  face  !” 

“  Do  you  know,”  replied  the  one  addressed,  “  it  is  said 
that,  before  long,  we  shall  do  so,  too?” 

“  Allah  forbid  !”  exclaimed  the  first. 

Monday,  Feb.  21.  Took  a  caique  for  San  Stefano,  the 
residence  of  our  Minister,  twelve  miles  distant,  on  the 
Sea  of  Marmara.  Differing  in  its  construction  from  other 


*  Except  the  nearest  relatives,  males  never  visit  females  in  Turkey. 


58  HARBOUR  OF  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

boats,  except,  in  some  points,  the  American  canoe  and 
the  Malay  proa,  the  breadth  of  the  caique  rarely  exceeds 
one-fourteenth  of  its  length.  The  bow  and  stern  rise 
high  and  curvilinear,  and  these  boats  are  so  easily 
careened  that  passengers  are  compelled  to  recline  upon 
the  bottom.  In  consequence  of  their  extreme  buoyancy, 
they  are  propelled  with  great  rapidity  when  the  water  is 
smooth,  but  when  it  is  ruffled,  they  are  exceedingly  un¬ 
safe,  and  at  times,  when  a  squall  sweeps  across  the  har¬ 
bour,  they  are  to  be  seen  like  affrighted  wild  fowl,  flitting 
before  it.  The  greatest  number  of  them  are  rowed  by 
two  men,  with  two  oars  each.  The  latter  are  not  very 
long,  but  have  wide  blades,  with  concave  ends,  and  heavy 
looms,  caused  by  their  being  nearly  three  times  the  usual 
diameter.  This  swelling,  as  it  may  be  termed,  is  intended 
as  a  counterbalancing  weight ;  but,  instead  of  the  clumsy 
lozenge-like  protuberance,  a  band  of  lead  or  iron,  of 
moderate  thickness,  would  better  answer  the  purpose. 

We  could  not  have  wished  a  more  delightful  day.  The 
sky  was  serene,  the  surface  of  the  sea  undisturbed  by  a 
ripple,  and  unchequered  by  the  shadow  of  a  cloud.  With 
great  rapidity  we  swept  by  the  wall  of  the  Seraglio  and 
the  sea-wall  of  the  city,  both,  throughout  their  whole 
extent,  seemingly  Grecian,  with  more  modern  props  and 
repairs,  for  which  purpose,  intermixed  with  Roman  brick 
and  cement,  marble  slabs,  pilasters  and  columns  have 
been  indiscriminately  used.  From  one  position  I  counted 
fifty  minarets  in  Stambohl  alone,  omitting  Scutari  on 
one  side,  and  Tophana,  in  full  view,  on  the  other. — 
We  soon  rowed  past  the  Seven  Towers,  the  slaughter¬ 
house  of  the  days  of  despotism,  which  overlooks  the 
western  wall,  and,  with  the  aid  of  the  current,  made  a 
speedy  passage. 

San  Stefano  is  a  paltry  village,  but  delightfully  situated 
on  the  margin  of  the  sea,  with  Princes’  Islands  towards 


COTTON  IN  TURKEY. 


59 


tlie  southern  shore,  and  the  snow-crowned  summit  of 
Mount  Olympus  beyond  it.  This  village  possesses  two 
things  in  its  near  vicinity,  of  peculiar  interest  to  an  Ame¬ 
rican —  a  model  farm  and  an  agricultural  school.  The 
farm  consists  of  about  two  thousand  acres  of  land,  espe¬ 
cially  appropriated  to  the  culture  of  the  cotton-plant. 
Both  farm  and  school  are  under  the  superintendence  of 
Dr.  Davis,  of  South  Carolina;  a  gentleman  who,  in  the 
estimation  of  Armenians,  Turks  and  Franks,  is  admirablv 
qualified  for  his  position.  He  is  intelligent,  sustains  a 
high  character,  and  has  many  years’  experience  in  this 
branch  of  cultivation.  Already  he  has  made  the  compa¬ 
ratively  arid  fields  to  bloom ;  and  besides  the  principal 
culture,  is  sedulously  engaged  in  the  introduction  of 
seeds,  plants,  domestic  animals,  and  agricultural  instru¬ 
ments.  The  school  is  held  in  one  of  the  kiosks  of  the 
sultan,  which  overlooks  the  sea. 

Dr.  Davis  has  brought  some  of  his  own  slaves  from  the 
United  States,  who  are  best  acquainted  with  the  cotton 
culture.  So  far  from  being  a  mere  transposition  of  slavery 
from  one  country  to  another,  the  very  act  of  removal  is  a 
guaranty  of  emancipation  to  the  slave.  By  a  law  of  the 
Ottoman  Empire,  no  one  within  its  limits  can  be  held  in 
slavery  for  a  period  exceeding  seven  years.*  Should  the 
culture  of  the  cotton-plant  succeed  in  this  region,  many, 
very  many,  thousands  of  additional  hands  will  be  required. 
In  that  event,  the  Ottoman  Empire  will  present  a  most 
eligible  field  for  the  amelioration  of  the  condition  of  the 
free  negro  of  our  own  country. 

In  Turkey,  every  coloured  person  employed  by  the 
government  receives  monthly  wages ;  and  if  a  slave,  is 

*  Can  this  ordinance,  like  the  prohibition  of  pork,  be  traced  to  the  Jews 
under  the  Theocracy  ?  “And  if  thy  brother,  an  Hebrew  man,  or  Hebrew 
woman,  be  sold  unto  thee,  and  serve  thee  six  years,  then  in  the  seventh 
year  thou  shalt  let  him  go  free  from  thee.”  —  Deut.  xv.  12. 


60 


THE  NEGRO  RACE. 


emancipated  at  the  expiration  of  seven  years,  when  he 
becomes  eligible  to  any  office  beneath  the  sovereignty. 
Many  of  the  high  dignitaries  of  the  empire  were  origin¬ 
ally  slaves ;  the  present  Governor  of  the  Dardanelles  is 
a  black,  and  was,  a  short  time  since,  freed  from  servi¬ 
tude.  There  is  here  no  prejudice  founded  on  distinction 
of  colour.  The  avenues  of  preferment  are  open  to  all, 
and  he  who  is  most  skilful,  accomplished  and  persevering, 
be  his  complexion  ruddy,  brown  or  black,  is  most  certain 
of  success. 

With  us,  it  is  manifest  that  the  distinctive  character 
of  the  Israelite  does  not  so  effectually  cut  him  off  from  a 
full  assimilation  with  the  human  family,  as  does  the  pre¬ 
judice  arising  from  distinction  of  colour  separate  the 
Anglo-Saxon  from  the  African.  No  matter  whether  this 
prejudice  be  implanted  for  wise  and  holy  purposes,  or 
whether  it  be  the  curse  of  the  age.  It  exists,  its  roots 
are  deeply  planted,  it  is  a  part  of  ourselves,  and  he  is  a 
shallow  observer  of  man,  blind  and  bigoted,  who  will 
overlook  or  despise  this  pervading  and  resistless  feeling, 
originate  where  it  may. 

Denied  with  us,  the  protecting  care  which  the  interest, 
if  not  the  humanity,  of  the  owner  extends  to  the  slave, 
the  free  negro  is  subject  to  all  the  prejudices  of  colour, 
with  some  of  the  rights  of  a  freeman,  and  many  of  the 
sentiments  of  a  slave.  They  constitute  an  intermediate 
class;  having  no  bonds  of  common  interest,  no  ties  of 
sympathy  to  sustain  it,  often  too  indolent  to  labour,  and 
too  insolent  to  serve,  it  is,  collectively,  the  most  depraved 
and  unhappy  race  in  the  western  hemisphere. 

The  only  hope  of  the  free  negro,  is  in  his  removal  be¬ 
yond  the  barriers  of  prejudice.  A  plan  of  colonization, 
connected  with  this  country,  would  present  a  broad  plat¬ 
form  upon  which  the  friends  of  this  unhappy  race  may 
meet  in  soberness  and  truth.  The  moral  and  the  physical 


SLAVERY  IN  TURKEY. 


61 


condition  of  the  free  negroes  among  us ;  the  frequent  con¬ 
flicts  between  them  and  the  whites  in  our  principal  cities, 
show  that  to  them,  on  our  soil,  freedom  carries  no  healing 
on  its  wings,  and  liberty,  that  blesses  all  besides,  has  no 
blessings  for  them. 

As  the  consumption  of  the  necessaries  of  life  ever 
increases  in  proportion  to  the  facility  of  their  production, 
and  as  Turkey  cannot,  for  a  century  to  come,  under  any 
possibility,  raise  sufficient  cotton  for  one-half  of  her  popu¬ 
lation,  she  cannot  become  a  rival  in  the  cotton-market. 
On  the  contrary,  its  general  introduction,  as  a  fabric  for 
domestic  wear,  would  create  a  demand  far  transcending 
the  home  supply,  and  another  mart  be  thereby  opened  to 
the  cotton-planters  of  the  southern  and  south-western 
states.  Already,  cotton  is  fast  superseding  silk,  as  an 
article  of  domestic  apparel  in  the  Turkish  dominions. 

It  is  said,  but  untruly,  that  the  slave-market  of  Con¬ 
stantinople  has  been  abolished.  An  edict,  it  is  true,  was 
some  years  since  promulgated,  which  declared  the  pur¬ 
chase  and  sale  of  slaves  to  be  unlawful.  The  prohibition, 
however,  is  only  operative  against  the  Franks,  under 
which  term  the  Greeks  are  included.  White  male  slaves 
are  purchased  for  adopted  sons,  and  female  ones  for  wives 
or  adopted  daughters.  Nubians  are  bought  as  slaves,  to 
serve  the  allotted  term.  Young  females,  of  the  principal 
families  of  Georgia  or  Circassia,  are  often  entrusted  to 
commissioners,  who  are  responsible  for  their  respectful 
treatment.  They  are  only  purchased  with  their  own 
consent,  and  when  so  purchased,  are  recognised  by  the 
Muhammedan  law  as  wives ;  the  portion  is  settled  upon 
them  by  law,  and  if  the  husband  misuses  them,  or  proves 
unfaithful,  they  can  sue  for  divorce,  and  recover  dowry. 
But,  unfortunately,  the-  husband  has  the  power  of  divorce 
at  will,  without  resorting  to  any  tribunal;  and  the  words, 
“I  divorce  you,”  from  his  lips,  is,  to  the  poor  woman,  the 
6 


62 


THE  SLAVE-MARKET. 


sentence  of  dismissal  from  her  husband’s  roof,  and  from 
the  presence  of  her  children.  If  dismissed  without  good 
cause,  however,  she  has  a  right  to  dowry,  but  is  ever 
after  debarred  from  appeasing  that  mighty  hunger  of  the 
heart,  the  yearning  of  a  mother  for  her  children. 

The  female  slaves,  bought  for  servitude,  are  subject  to 
the  wife,  and  not  to  the  husband.  He  has  no  property  in 
them,  but  is  bound  to  protect  and  to  aid  them  in  their 
settlement.*  The  males  rise  in  condition  with  their 
masters :  several  pashas  have  been  bondmen,  and  Seras- 
kier  Pasha  was  once  a  Georgian  slave. 

In  a  ramble  to  and  from  the  slave-market,  yesterday,  I 
saw  two  females,  whose  lots  in  life  are  now  widely  dif¬ 
ferent.  The  first  was  a  Circassian  slave,  young  and  inte¬ 
resting,  hut  by  no  means  beautiful,  attired  plainly  in  the 
Turkish  costume,  and  her  features  exposed  by  the  with¬ 
drawal  of  the  yashmak.  She  walked  a  few  paces  behind 
her  owner,  who  passed  to  and  fro  about  the  market. 
Stopping  occasionally,  and  again  renewing  his  walk,  he 
neither  by  word  nor  gesture  sought  to  attract  a  customer. 
When  he  was  accosted,  she  quietly,  hut  not  sadly,  sub¬ 
mitted  to  the  inspection,  and  listened  in  silence,  and 
without  perceptible  emotion,  to  the  interrogatories  of  the 
probable  customer. 

The  second  female  to  whom  I  have  alluded  was  an  Ar¬ 
menian  bride  being  escorted  to  the  residence  of  her  hus¬ 
band.  There  were  three  arabas,  or  clumsy  carriages  of 
the  country,  drawn  by  two  oxen  each.  The  panels  of 
the  second  one  were  richly  carved  and  blazoned,  and  its 
roof  was  supported  on  upright  gilt  columns,  with  richly 
embroidered  curtains,  and  fringes  of  silk.  The  concave 
bottom  had  no  seats,  but  was  covered  with  cushions,  upon 
which,  at  half  length,  reclined  the  bride,  with  a  female 

*  “And  when  thou  sendest  him  out  from  thee,  thou  shalt  not  let  him  go 
away  empty.”  —  Deut.  xv.  13. 


A 


AN  ARMENIAN  BRIDE. 


63 


attendant  beside  her.  On  the  backs  of  the  oxen  were 
four  or  five  stakes  diverging  outwards,  like  radii  from  a 
centre,  with  long  hearse-like  purple  plumes  drooping  from 
them.  The  bride  was  gorgeously  dressed,  but  her  head 
and  its  appendage  riveted  my  attention.  From  it  hung  a 
veil  (I  can  call  it  nothing  else),  composed  of  long  strings 
of  bright  gold  beads,  spanning  from  temple  to  temple,  and 
reaching  from  the  forehead  to  the  waist.  With  the  mo¬ 
tion  of  the  araba,  it  swayed  to  and  fro  in  gently  waving 
lines,  but  without  disparting,  and  my  strained  vision 
could  not  penetrate  the  costly  screen.  I  have  heard  of 
the  man  in  the  iron  mask,  but  never  before  of  a  woman 
in  a  golden  one. 

The  husband,  who  is  yet  as  ignorant  as  myself,  may, 
like  the  Prince  of  Arragon,  find  only  the  blank  counte¬ 
nance  of  a  blinking  idiot  beneath  it,  and  discover,  when 
too  late,  that  the 

u  Beauteous  scarf 
Veils  but  an  Indian  beauty.” 

They  were  both  destined  victims  to  the  matrimonial  cus¬ 
toms  of  the  country;  and  perhaps  the  sacrifice  of  this 
poor  Circassian  may  not  be  more  venal  than  the  mer¬ 
cenary  marriage  of  the  other. 

The  conditions  of  the  two  females  are  now  widely  dif¬ 
ferent  ;  but,  such  are  the  peculiar  customs  of  this  people, 
that  it  is  by  no  means  impossible,  indeed  is  far  within  the 
range  of  probability,  that  the  slave  of  whom  I  have 
spoken,  may  yet  be  elevated  to  a  sphere  more  exalted 
than  that  of  the  wealthy  Armenian.  If  every  good  has 
its  attendant  evil,  every  evil  has  its  antidote ;  and  in  this 
clime  of  despotism  the  fetters  of  slavery  are  less  galling 
than  in  our  own  more  favoured  land.  The  slave  has  here 
a  voice  in  his  own  disposal,  and  his  consent  is  necessary 
to  make  a  transfer  legal.  The  female  slave  therefore 
may,  and  doubtless  does,  reject  the  ill-favoured  or  tyran¬ 
nical,  and  yield  her  assent  only  to  the  comely  or  the 


I 


64  EXCURSION  ON  THE  BOSPHORUS 

wealthy  purchaser,  perchance  a  bey  or  a  pasha,  and  be¬ 
come  the  favourite  wife  of  a  future  governor  of  an  exten¬ 
sive  province. 

Besides  Dr.  Davis  and  family,  including  his  intelligent 
brother,  we  here  met  Dr.  Smith,  who  holds  the  important 
office  of  geologist  to  the  Ottoman  government,  to  whom 
we  are  indebted  for  many  excellent  scientific  suggestions. 
From  Bishop  Southgate,  of  the  American  Episcopal  mis¬ 
sion,  we  received  many  kind  offices,  including  a  present 
of  his  work  on  Armenia,  Persia,  and  Mesopotamia.  By 
the  gentlemen  of  the  Evangelical  Mission,  and  their  fami¬ 
lies,  we  were  also  welcomed  with  cordial  hospitality. 

Tuesday,  Feb.  24.  We  embarked  with  our  minister, 
Mr.  Carr,  in  his  sixteen-oared  caique,  for  a  trip  up  the 
Bosporus.  The  lovely  and  meandering  Bosporus,  ever 
at  the  ebb,  but  rarely  turbulent,  for  the  last  five  miles 
before  it  becomes  merged  in  the  Sea  of  Marmara,  flows 
between  almost  uninterrupted  ranges  of  mosques,  palaces, 
gardens,  and  kiosks.  It  were  in  vain  to  attempt  to  de¬ 
scribe  it.  I  only  noted  such  prominent  places  as,  from 
time  to  time,  we  passed. 

First,  on  the  left,  or  European  shore,  was  a  beautiful 
mosque,  erected  by  the  late  Sultan  Mahmoud,  in  com 
memoration  of  the  extinction  of  the  Janissaries.  Next, 
an  immense  cannon  foundry,  with  a  spacious  “Caserne,” 
or  barracks,  on  the  hill  behind  it;  then  the  palace  of 
Beschiktasche,  and  the  one  built  by  Mahmoud  for  the 
heir  apparent,  the  present  sultan,  and  another  mosque, 
all  with  gardens  and  their  kiosks  between.  We  also 
passed  the  tomb  of  the  great  admiral  Barbarossa,  with 
the  name  “Wao”  (Jehovah),  in  large  Arabic  characters, 
inscribed  upon  it.  Near  the  palace,  stood  the  column  of 
Simeon  and  Daniel  Stylites,  two  saintly  men,  who  spent 
most  of  their  lives  upon  its  summit,  sixty  feet  above  the 
ground,  and 


SHORES  OF  THE  BOSPHORUS.  65 

u  Drowned  the  whoopings  of  the  owl  with  sound 
Of  pious  hymns  and  prayers.” 

The  tomb  marks  the  spot  where  Muhammed  II.,  during 
the  siege  of  Constantinople,  transported  a  fleet  of  galleys 
overland  to  the  “  Sweet  Waters/’  the  head  of  the  “  Golden 
Horn." 

We  then  rowed  by  the  stairs,  beneath  the  windows  of 
“Cherighan,”  the  palace  where  the  reigning  monarch 
holds  his  court.  Like  the  one  below,  it  fronts  upon  the 
Bosporus.  It  is  of  wood,  neatly  constructed,  and  painted 
a  light  stone-colour.  Its  form  is  a  hollow  square,  with 
handsomely  laid-out  gardens  in  the  centre,  and  a  guard¬ 
house  beside  it.  It  is  a  fine,  rich  building,  but,  for  a 
royal  palace,  quite  an  unpretending  one.  Its  style  of 
architecture  is  oriental,  and  presents  to  the  eye  a  light 
and.  graceful  appearance. 

On  the  opposite,  or  Asiatic  side,  from  Scutari  up,  is  a 
like  continuous  line  of  gardens,  kiosks,  and  palaces. 
The  swelling  hills  on  each  side  of  the  Bosporus  alter¬ 
nately  approach  and  recede,  so  that  the  banks  of  this 
meandering  and  beautiful  stream  form  seven  promon¬ 
tories,  and  as  many  corresponding  inlets  to  each  shore. 

At  the  narrowest  part  of  the  strait,  is  Roumelia  Hissar, 
or  castle  of  Roumelia.  Here,  was  the  bridge  over  which 
Darius  led  his  army  into  Scythia,  and  the  overlooking 
hill  is  thence  called  the  throne  of  Darius.  The  castle 
was  built  by  Muhammed  II.,  prior  to  the  conquest  of 
Constantinople ;  and,  from  a  whim  of  that  monarch,  the 
walls  run  in  the  form  of  the  Arabic  characters  of  the 
word  Muhammed. 

At  the  foot  of  each  inlet  of  the  Bosporus,  is  a  valley, 
now  luxuriant  in  its  verdure.  That  of  Buyukdere,  about 
midway,  was,  at  the  same  time,  the  most  extensive  and 
the  most  beautiful.  Hither,  in  the  summer,  resort  the 
Frank  ambassadors  and  their  families.  A  short  distance 
6  *  E 


66 


THE  BLACK  SEA. 


up  this  valley,  is  Belgrade,  with  its  extensive  forest,  and 
where  once  resided  the  celebrated  Mary  Montagu.  We 
did  not  stop  at  Buyukdere,  although  it  looked  inviting, 
for  other  beauties  were  around,  and  the  Euxine  was 
before  us. 

Passing  along  the  base  of  the  Giants’  mountain,  and  by 
a  modern  battery,  with  the  ruins  of  a  Genoese  tower  high 
on  the  hill  above  it,  and  by  the  ancient  Pharos,  on  the 
European  side,  and  by  the  upper  forts,  with  their  con¬ 
tiguous  lighthouses,  we  swept  rapidly  into 

u  The  Pontic  sea, 

Whose  icy  current  and  compulsive  course 
Ne’er  feels  retiring-  ebb,  but  keeps  due  on 
To  the  Propontic  and  the  Hellespont” — 

and  beheld  in  the  distance  the  Symplegades,  so  familiar 
to  the  classic  reader  for  the  perilous  passage  of  Jason, 
when  in  search  of  the  Golden  Fleece.  Beyond,  the  left- 
hand  shore  extended  north-west  and  north,  to  the  moun¬ 
tains  of  the  Balkan,  “  the  sentinels  of  an  enchanted  land,” 
and  thence  to  the  dark,  swift  rolling  Danube.  To  the 
right,  the  mountainous  shores  stretched  in  a  continuous 
range  towards  the  site  of  Sinope,  the  ancient  capital  of 
Pontus  and  the  birth-place  of  Diogenes.  Towards  the 
north  and  north-east  was  one  broad  expanse  of  water, 
which,  so  far  from  presenting  a  gloomy  appearance,  rip¬ 
pled  its  tiny  waves  before  the  breath  of  a  gentle  breeze, 
and  basked  in  the  rays  of  an  unclouded  sun.  A  number 
of  vessels  bound  to  the  Danube,  to  Odessa,  to  Trebizond, 
and  to  other  ports  of  this  inland  sea,  were  stretching 
away,  under  full  sail,  towards  their  respective  destinations. 

We  looked  long  and  earnestly, — first  to  the  left,  where 
the  mind’s  eye  followed  the  course  of  the  Danube  to  the 
lands  of  civilization  and  refinement ;  to  the  north,  across 


THE  TOMB  OF  JOSHUA. 


67 


the  barren  steppes,  to  the  frozen  limits  of  inhospitable 
and  semi-barbarous  Russia;  to  the  north-east  and  east, 
over  the  range  of  the  Caucasus  and  along  the  shores  of 
the  almost  unknown  Caspian,  and  thence  southwardly, 
through  Persia  and  India,  to  Hindostan  and  the  Ganges. 
Warned  by  the  lapse  of  time,  we  reluctantly  forbore  to 
visit  the  Semplygades,  on  the  largest  of  which  a  fragment 
of  a  pillar,  supposed  to  be  part  of  an  altar  to  Apollo,  was 
distinctly  visible. 

Returning  along  the  Asiatic  shore,  we  stopped  near  the 
fortress  which  lies  below  the  Genoese  ruin,  and  ascended 
the  Giants’  mountain.  On  the  summit  is  a  mound  twenty 
feet  long  and  five  feet  high,  called  the  tomb  of  Joshua. 
On  the  bushes  around  it  are  hung  shreds  and  patches  of 
clothing,  votive  offerings  for  the  recovery  of  the  sick. 
All  Muhammedan  visitors  dissolve  a  little  of  the  superin¬ 
cumbent  earth  in  water,  and  drink  it  as  an  antidote  of 
the  fever ;  and  to  those  who  are  diseased,  it  is  conveyed 
as  a  certain  remedy. 

Another  tradition  maintains  that  the  tomb  contains 
only  the  head  of  a  being  so  gigantic,  that  when  seated  on 
the  summit  of  the  mountain,  he  had  one  foot  immersed  in 
the  Bosporus  and  the  other  in  the  Euxine.  The  first 
tradition  is  most  credited,  and  a  mosque  is  erected  conti¬ 
guous  to  the  tomb,  which  a  dervish  guards  from  profana¬ 
tion.  The  view  from  this  mountain  height  surpasses  all 
that  in  my  wandering  life  I  have  ever  seen.  The  Black 
Sea,  its  surface  dotted  with  many  sails,  stretched  in  a 
boundless  expanse  to  the  north ;  nearer  were  the  Sym- 
plegades  and  the  mouth  of  the  strait,  and  nearer  yet  the 
Genoese  ruin  on  the  site  of  the  temple  of  Serapis,  and 
over  against  it  the  ancient  Pharos,  or  light-house  of  the 
strait.  Before  us  was  the  great  valley  of  Buyukdere, 
which,  as  its  name  imports,  is  broad,  beautiful  and  luxu¬ 
riant,  with  its  river,  its  port,  its  shipping  and  its  houses ; 


68  INVASION  FROM  RUSSIA. 

an  acqueduct  near,  and  Belgrade,  with  its  forest,  in  the 
distance ;  while  sweeping  between,  and  stretching  its 
meandering  length  along  as  far  as  Constantinople,  is  the 
palace-crowned,  the  indescribably  beautiful  Bosporus. 
The  promontories,  bold,  but  not  rugged,  gracefully  swell¬ 
ing  into  the  air,  and  covered  with  verdure ;  and  the  val¬ 
leys,  so  inviting  as  to  create  a  longing  desire  to  erect  in 
each  successive  one  a  bower  for  those  we  love  most  dearly. 

A  little  below  Buyukdere,  on  the  Asiatic  shore,  there 
is  a  rude  granite  column  upon  a  projecting  point,  which 
indicates  the  last  encampment  of  ten  thousand  Russians, 
on  the  march  to  succour  Constantinople,  when  threatened 
by  Mehemet  Ali,  of  Egypt. 

When  Constantinople  was  rescued  from  the  clutches  of 
this  rebellious  pasha  by  the  interposition  of  the  European 
powers,  he  came  as  a  tributary  to  render  homage  to  the 
sultan.  While  here,  he  selected,  as  the  site  of  the  palace 
he  was  required  to  build,  the  promontory  immediately 
below  and  in  full  sight  of  the  one  upon  which  the  Russian 
column  is  erected,  as  if  to  intimate  to  posterity  that  if 
the  Russians  came  thus  far,  he  had  preceded  them,  and 
that  it  was  the  fear  of  him  that  brought  them. 

These  are  ominous  signs,  the  first  especially ;  for,  if  a 
Russian  army  can  so  speedily  and  unexpectedly  (it  came 
without  a  summons)  reach  the  environs  of  Constantinople, 
what  is  to  prevent  the  same  rapid  movement  of  a  hostile 
and  yet  more  powerful  force  ?  Of  their  danger  the  Turks 
are  well  aware,  but  instead  of  preparing  to  resist,  in  the 
spirit  of  fatalism  they  supinely  await  the  dread  event. 
There  is  a  tradition  among  them  that  they  are  to  be 
driven  from  Europe  by  a  light-haired  race  from  the  north, 
and  their  fears  have  settled  upon  the  Russians.  The 
prediction  will  work  its  own  accomplishment:  the  un- 
liappy  presentiment  of  the  Turk,  (for  the  feeling  amounts 
to  such,)  will  be  more  than  embattled  hosts  against  him, 


WOMEN  IN'  TURKEY. 


69 


and  the  dispassionate  observer  can  already  predict  not 
only  his  expulsion  from  Europe,  but  the  downfall  of  the 
Ottoman  empire.  The  handwriting  is  on  the  wall,  and 
it  needs  not  a  Daniel  to  interpret  it.  Under  present 
auspices,  this  country  must  ere  long  attain  her  destiny ; 
and  her  decline  and  fall  will  add  another  to  the  many 
lessons  of  experience,  to  instruct  future  generations  and 
furnish  another  proof  of  the  perishable  nature  of  all 
human  institutions.  Could  Christianity  but  shed  its 
benign  influence  over  this  misguided  people,  their  na¬ 
tional  existence  might  be  prolonged,  and  the  sad  catas¬ 
trophe  averted.  One  crying  evil  pervades  the  land,  and 
while  it  exists,  there  can  be  no  hope. 

In  this  country,  from  the  hovel  to  the  palace,  woman  is 
in  a  state  of  domestic  servitude.  It  is  unnecessary  to  dwell 
upon  the  degradation  of  the  female  sex  here,  in  India, 
and  among  all  barbarous  nations.  The  fact  is  clearly 
established,  that  everywhere,  in  all  nations  and  among 
every  people,  beyond  the  pale  of  Christianity,  woman  is 
deplorably  debased.  Christianity  has  ever  expressed  the 
deepest  solicitude  for  the  female  sex ;  for  the  inordinate 
authority  of  man  over  woman,  or  the  undue  subjection  of 
the  female  to  the  male,  tends  to  the  debasement  of  the 
morals  of  each.  Woman,  even  when  invested  with  the 
plenitude  of  her  rights  and  mistress  of  her  own  actions,  is 
but  too  often  the  feeble  victim  of  the  seducements  which 
surround  her.  How  utterly  helpless  is  she,  therefore, 
when  her  will  is  not  her  own  !  The  very  idea  of  resist¬ 
ance  vanishes,  vice  becomes  a  seeming  duty,  and  man, 
gradually  debased  by  the  facility  with  which  his  irregular 
appetites  are  indulged,  plunges  into  the  lowest  depths  of 
sensuality.  Woman,  whose  influence  over  the  heart  of 
man  is  irresistible,  whenever  she  is  debased,  revisits  her 
corruption  upon  man ;  and  thus  this  pervading  influence 
of  the  sexes  over  each  other,  by  a  species  of  mutual  con- 


70 


woman’s  influence. 


tamination,  moves  from  generation  to  generation  in  one 
vicious  circle,  from  which  they  can  only  be  delivered  by 
the  supernatural  and  refining  influence  of  Christianity. 

Christianity  acts  first  upon  woman,  because,  from  the 
gentleness  and  tractability  of  her  nature,  she  is  more  sus¬ 
ceptible  of  the  influence  of  its  law  of  purity  and  love; 
and  when  she  is  thus  regenerated,  who  shall  declare  the 
extent  of  her  chastening  influence  over  the  sons  of  the 
children  of  men  ?  Under  the  elevating  and  benign  influ¬ 
ences  of  Christianity,  she  proceeds  to  subdue,  to  reform, 
to  ennoble,  and  perfect  everything  around  her ;  and,  by 
this  supernatural  power,  she  so  softens  the  affections  and 
refines  the  feelings  of  the  lord  of  creation,  as  to  dispose 
him  to  prefer  the  purity  and  confidence  of  domestic  love, 
to  the  selfish  and  utter  isolation  of  a  life  of  sensual 
indulgence. 

But,  alas  !  Christianity,  all  lovely  and  gentle  as  she  is, 
can  find  no  entrance  here ;  for  bigotry,  with  sneering  lip 
and  contracted  brow,  stands  at  the  portal. 


I 


CHAPTER  V. 


CONSTANTINOPLE,  AND  VOYAGE  TO  SYRIA. 

Saturday,  Feb.  26.  To-day,  by  appointment,  I  had  an 
audience  with  the  sultan.  Accompanied  by  the  Drago¬ 
man  of  our  legation,  I  took  a  caique,  and  proceeded  three 
miles  up  the  Bosporus,  to  the  palace  of  “  Cherighan,” 
mentioned  before. 

We  landed  at  the  palace  stairs,  and  leaving  our  over¬ 
shoes,  which  etiquette  required  us  to  bring,  we  ascended 
a  broad  and  lofty  flight  of  stairs,  and  passing  through  an 
ante-chamber,  were  ushered  into  a  room  which  overlooked 
the  Bosporus,  and  was  occupied  by  Sheffie  Bey,  the  chief 
and  confidential  secretary  of  the  sultan.  It  was  hand¬ 
somely  furnished,  but  no  more. 

With  the  secretary,  was  an  Armenian,  a  great  favourite 
of  the  monarch,  and  superintendent  of  the  public  works 
in  and  near  Constantinople. 

Shortly  after  we  were  seated,  as  many  pipe-bearers  as 
there  were  visitors  entered  the  apartment,  and,  with  heads 
bowed  down  and  their  left  hands  upon  their  breasts,  pre¬ 
sented  each  of  us  with  a  chiboque;  then  retiring  back¬ 
wards  a  few  paces,  dropped  on  one  knee,  and  lifting  the 
bowl  of  the  pipe,  placed  a  gilt  or  golden  saucer  (I  could 
not  tell  which)  beneath  it. 

I  am  not  a  smoker,  and  hold,  with  King  James  I.,  that 

u  If  there  be  any  herb,  in  any  place, 

Most  opposite  to  God’s  herb  of  grace,” 

it  is  tobacco ;  but  as  an  opportunity  of  inhaling  the  odour 

of  the  weed  of  royalty  might  never  again  present  itself, 

(71) 


72 


YISIT  TO  THE  SULTAN. 


my  inclinations  jumped  accordant  with  the  rules  of  eti¬ 
quette,  and  I  puffed  away  with  as  much  vivacity  as  any 
Turk. 

In  a  short  time  the  attendants  reappeared,  one  of  them 
hearing  a  golden  salver,  covered  with  a  crimson  cloth, 
gorgeously  embroidered.  The  latter  was  presently  with¬ 
drawn,  and  exhibited  upon  the  massive  piece  of  plate  a 
number  of  tiny  coffee-cups,  set  in  stands  or  holders,  in 
shape  exactly  like  the  egg-cups  we  use  at  home.  The 
cups  were  of  the  choicest  porcelain,  most  beautifully  ena¬ 
melled,  and  the  holders  were  rich  filagree  gold,  set  with 
turquoise  and  emerald. 

Again  an  attendant  approached  each  of  us,  and,  in  the 
same  manner  as  before,  presented  a  cup  of  coffee.  Like 
the  tobacco,  it  was  flavoured  with  some  aromatic  sub¬ 
stance,  which  rendered  it  delicious. 

As  I  sat  upon  the  divan,  a  cup  of  priceless  value  in 
one  hand,  and  the  other  holding  a  chibouque,  the  bowl 
of  which  was  eight  feet  distant,  with  a  jasmin  stem  be¬ 
tween,  having  a  mouthpiece  of  the  purest  and  costliest 
amber,  encircled  with  diamonds,  I  could  scarce  realize 
my  position.  But  I  had  been  under  a  royal  roof  before, 
and  my  nerves  preserved  their  equanimity. 

The  secretary  had  the  most  prepossessing  countenance 
of  any  Turk  I  had  yet  seen,  and  in  conversation  evinced 
a  spirit  of  inquiry  and  an  amount  of  intelligence  that  far 
surpassed  my  expectations. 

To  this  tribute  he  is  not  indebted  to  the  pipes  and 
coffee,  which  form  as  indispensable  a  part  in  a  Turkish 
welcome  to  a  visitor,  as,  with  us,  the  invitation  to  be 
seated. 

His  history  is  a  pleasing  one.  He  was  a  poor  boy ;  a 
charity  scholar  in  one  of  the  public  schools.  The  late 
sultan,  Mahmoud,  requiring  a  page  to  fill  a  vacancy  in 
his  suite,  directed  the  appointment  to  be  given  to  the 


most  intelligent  pupil.  The  present  secretary  was  the  for¬ 
tunate  one,  and  by  his  abilities,  his  suavity  and  discretion, 
has  risen  to  the  highest  office  near  the  person  of  majesty. 

The  empty  cups  and  exhausted  pipes  were  removed  by 
the  attendants,  who,  in  all  their  approaches  and  retirings, 
were  careful  not  to  turn  their  backs  upon  us.  Observing 
this,  I  began  to  distrust  my  ability  to  make  a  retrograde 
movement  in  a  direct  line,  from  the  sublime  presence  into 
which  I  was  about  to  be  ushered. 

One  of  the  pashas  had  preceded  me,  and  I  was  com¬ 
pelled  to  wait  nearly  half  an  hour.  At  length,  we  were 
summoned.  Descending  the  flight  of  stairs  and  resuming 
our  overshoes,  we  were  led  across  the  court,  into  which, 
when  passing  in  a  caique  a  few  days  before,  I  had  looked 
so  eagerly.  It  is  oblong,  and  contains  about  four  acres, 
laid  out  in  parterres  and  gravel  walks,  with  many  young 
and  thrifty  trees,  and  a  great  variety  of  plants :  flowers 
there  were  few,  for  it  was  yet  early  in  the  season.  In 
the  centre,  with  a  gravelled  walk  between,  were  two 
quadrangular,  artificial  ponds,  in  which  a  number  of  gold 
and  silver  fish  were  gambolling  in  security,  protected  as 
they  were  from  the  talons  of  the  cormorant  by  nets  drawn 
over  a  few  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  water. 

The  fish  sporting  beneath,  the  bird  of  prey  poised 
above,  ready  for  a  swoop  through  the  first  rent  of  the 
flimsy  screen,  seemed  fitting  emblems  of  the  feeble  Turk 
and  the  vigorous  and  grasping  Russian. 

There  was  nothing  imposing,  but  all  was  rich  and  m 
exquisite  taste.  The  bronze  gates,  with  alternate  gilt 
bars,  which  open  on  the  Bosporus  between  the  centre 
building  and  the  northern  wing,  were  exceedingly  light 
and  beautiful.  A  part  of  the  court,  most  probably  that 
appropriated  to  the  harem,  or  apartments  of  the  women, 
was  screened  off  by  a  lofty  railing  of  like  material  and 
construction. 

7 


74  A  POINT  OF  ETIQUETTE. 

We  were  led  to  the  entrance  of  the  southern  wing,  and 
again  throwing  off  our  overshoes,  entered  a  lofty  and  spa¬ 
cious  hall,  matted  throughout,  with  two  broad  flights  of 
stairs  ascending  from  the  far  extreme  to  an  elevated  plat¬ 
form  or  landing,  whence,  uniting  in  one,  they  issued  upon 
the  floor  above. 

On  the  right  and  left  of  the  hall  were  doors  opening 
into  various  apartments,  and  there  were  a  number  of  offi¬ 
cers  and  attendants  on  either  side  and  stationed  at  inter¬ 
vals  along  the  stairway,  all  preserving  a  silence  the  most 
profound. 

The  secretary,  who  had  gone  before,  now  approached 
and  beckoned  to  us  to  follow.  But  here  an  unexpected 
difficulty  was  presented.  The  chamberlain  in  waiting 
objected  to  my  sword,  and  required  that  I  should  lay  it 
aside.  I  replied  that  the  audience  was  given  to  me  as  an 
officer  of  the  United  States ;  that  the  sword  was  part  of  my 
uniform,  and  that  I  could  not  dispense  with  it.  My  re¬ 
fusal  was  met  with  the  assurance  that  the  etiquette  of  the 
court  peremptorily  required  it.  I  asked  if  the  custom 
had  been  invariably  complied  with,  and  inquired  of  the 
dragoman  whether  Mr.  Carr,  our  minister,  had,  in  confor¬ 
mity  with  it,  ever  attended  an  audience  without  his 
sword ;  hut  even  as  I  spoke,  my  mind,  without  regard  to 
precedent,  had  come  to  the  alternative,  no  sword,  no 
audience. 

Whether  the  secretary  had,  during  the  discussion,  re¬ 
ferred  the  matter  to  a  higher  quarter,  I  could  not  tell,  for 
my  attention  had  been  so  engrossed  for  some  minutes, 
that  I  had  not  noticed  him.  He  now  came  forward,  how¬ 
ever,  and  decided  that  I  should  retain  the  sword.  At 
this  I  truly  rejoiced,  for  it  would  have  been  unpleasant 
to  retire  after  having  gone  so  far.  It  is  due  to  Mr.  Brown, 
fhe  dragoman,  to  say  that  he  sustained  me. 

The  discussion  at  an  end,  we  ascended  the  stairway, 


PRESENCE  OF  THE  SULTAN.  75 

which  was  covered  with  a  good  and  comfortable  but  not 
a  costly  carpet,  and  passed  into  a  room  more  handsomely 
furnished  and  more  lofty,  but  in  every  other  respect  of 
the  same  dimensions  as  the  one  immediately  below  it.  A 
rich  carpet  was  upon  the  floor,  a  magnificent  chandelier, 
all  crystal  and  gold,  was  suspended  from  the  ceiling,  and 
costly  divans  and  tables,  with  other  articles  of  furniture, 
were  interspersed  about  the  room ;  but  I  had  not  time  to 
note  them,  for  on  the  left  hung  a  gorgeous  crimson  velvet 
curtain,  embroidered  and  fringed  with  gold,  and  towards 
it  the  secretary  led  the  way.  His  countenance  and  his 
manner  exhibited  more  awe  than  I  had  ever  seen  depicted 
in  the  human  countenance.  He  seemed  to  hold  his 
breath,  and  his  step  was  so  soft  and  stealthy  that  once  or 
twice  I  stopped,  under  the  impression  that  I  had  left  him 
behind,  but  found  him  ever  beside  me.  There  were  three 
of  us  in  close  proximity,  and  the  stairway  was  lined  with 
officers  and  attendants,  but  such  was  the  death-like  still¬ 
ness  that  I  could  distinctly  hear  my  own  footfall,  which, 
unaccustomed  to  palace  regulations,  fell  with  untutored 
republican  firmness  upon  the  royal  floor.  If  it  had  been 
a  wild  beast  slumbering  in  his  lair  that  we  were  about  to 
visit,  there  could  not  have  been  a  silence  more  deeply 
hushed. 

Fretted  at  such  abject  servility,  I  quickened  my  pace 
towards  the  curtain,  when  Sheffie  Bey,  rather  gliding 
than  stepping  before  me,  cautiously  and  slowly  raised  a 
corner  for  me  to  pass.  Wondering  at  his  subdued  and 
terror-stricken  attitude,  I  stepped  across  the  threshold, 
and  felt,  without  yet  perceiving  it,  that  I  was  in  the  pre¬ 
sence  of  the  Sultan. 

The  heavy  folds  of  the  window-curtains  so  obscured 
the  light  that  it  seemed  as  if  the  day  were  drawing  to  a 
close  instead  of  being  at  its  high  meridian. 

As  with  the  expanding  pupil  the  eye  took  in  surround- 


76 


THE  SULTAN. 


ing  objects,  the  apartment,  its  furniture  and  its  royal 
tenant,  presented  a  different  scene  from  what,  if  left  to 
itself,  the  imagination  would  have  drawn. 

The  room,  less  spacious,  but  as  lofty  as  the  adjoining 
one,  was  furnished  in  the  modern  European  style,  and 
like  a  familiar  thing,  a  stove  stood  nearly  in  the  centre. 
On  a  sofa,  by  a  window,  through  which  he  might  have 
looked  upon  us  as  we  crossed  the  court,  with  a  crimson 
tarbouch,  its  gold  button  and  blue  silk  tassel  on  his  head, 
a  black  kerchief  around  his  neck,  attired  in  a  blue  mili¬ 
tary  frock  and  pantaloons,  and  polished  French  boots 
upon  his  feet,  sat  the  monarch,  without  any  of  the  attri¬ 
butes  of  sovereignty  about  him. 

A  man,  young  in  years,  but  evidently  of  impaired  and 
delicate  constitution,  his  wearied  and  spiritless  air  was 
unrelieved  by  any  indication  of  intellectual  energy.  He 
eyed  me  fixedly  as  I  advanced,  and  on  him  my  attention 
was  no  less  intently  riveted.  As  he  smiled  I  stopped,  ex¬ 
pecting  that  he  was  about  to  speak,  but  he  motioned 
gently  with  his  hand  for  me  to  approach  yet  nearer. 
Through  the  interpreter,  he  then  bade  me  welcome,  for 
which  I  expressed  my  acknowledgments. 

The  interview  was  not  a  protracted  one.  In  the  course 
of  it,  as  requested  by  Mr.  Carr,  I  presented  him,  in  the 
name  of  the  President  of  the  United  States,  with  some 
biographies  and  prints,  illustrative  of  the  character  and 
habits  of  our  North  American  Indians,  the  work  of  Ame¬ 
rican  artists.  He  looked  at  some  of  them,  which  were 
placed  before  him  by  an  attendant,  and  said  that  he  con¬ 
sidered  them  as  evidences  of  the  advancement  of  the 
United  States  in  civilization,  and  would  treasure  them  as 
a  souvenir  of  the  good  feeling  of  its  government  towards 
him.  At  the  word  civilization,  pronounced  in  French,  I 
started ;  for  it  seemed  singular,  coming  from  the  lips 
of  a  Turk,  and  applied  to  our  country.  I  have  since 


MELANCHOLY  REFLECTIONS.  77 

learned  that  lie  is  but  a  student  in  French,  and  presume 
that,  by  the  word  “  civilization,' ”  he  meant  the  arts  and 
sciences. 

When  about  to  take  my  leave,  he  renewed  his  welcome, 
and  said  that  I  had  his  full  authority  to  see  anything  in 
Stambohl  I  might  desire. 

While  in  his  presence,  I  could  not  refrain  from  drawing 
comparisons  and  moralizing  on  fate.  There  was  the  Sul¬ 
tan,  an  Eastern  despot,  the  ruler  of  mighty  kingdoms  and 
the  arbiter  of  the  fate  of  millions  of  his  fellow-creatures ; 
and,  face  to  face,  a  few  feet  distant,  one,  in  rank  and  con¬ 
dition,  among  the  very  humblest  servants  of  a  far-distant 
republic ;  and  yet,  little  as  life  has  to  cheer,  I  would  not 
change  positions  with  him,  unless  I  could  carry  with  me 
my  faith,  my  friendships,  and  my  aspirations. 

My  feelings  saddened  as  I  looked  upon  the  monarch, 
and  I  thought  of  Montezuma.  Evidently,  like  a  northern 
clime,  his  year  of  life  had  known  two  seasons  only,  and 
he  had  leaped  at  once  from  youth  to  imbecility.  His 
smile  was  one  of  the  sweetest  I  had  ever  looked  upon, — 
his  voice  almost  the  most  melodious  I  had  ever  heard ;  his 
manner  was  gentleness  itself,  and  everything  about  him 
bespoke  a  kind  and  amiable  disposition.  He  is  said  to 
be  very  affectionate,  to  his  mother  in  especial,  and  is 
generous  to  the  extreme  of  prodigality.  But  there  is  that 
indescribably  sad  expression  in  his  countenance,  which  is 
thought  to  indicate  an  early  death.  A  presentiment  of 
the  kind,  mingled  perhaps  with  a  boding  fear  of  the  over¬ 
throw  of  his  country,  seems  to  pervade  and  depress  his 
spirits.  In  truth,  like  Damocles,  this  descendant  of  the 
Caliphs  sits  beneath  a  suspended  fate.  Through  him,  the 
souls  of  the  mighty  monarchs  who  have  gone  before,  seem 
to  brood  over  the  impending  fate  of  an  empire  which  once 
extended  from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Ganges,  from  the  Cau¬ 
casus  to  the  Indian  Ocean. 


78  OFFER  OF  THE  SULTAN. 

Returning  from  the  room  of  audience  to  that  of  the 
secretary,  we  were  again  presented  with  pipes,  and,  in¬ 
stead  of  coffee,  sherbet  was  handed  round ;  a  drink  so  cool 
and  so  delicious,  that  my  unaccustomed  palate  treasures 
its  flavour  in  grateful  remembrance. 

One  circumstance  occurred  to  me  as  singular.  Neither 
on  the  palace  stairs,  nor  in  the  court,  nor  in  the  palace 
itself,  did  I  see  a  single  soldier ;  and,  but  for  the  obse¬ 
quiousness  of  the  Sultan’s  officers  and  attendants,  I  might 
have  fancied  myself  on  a  visit  to  a  wealthy  private  gen¬ 
tleman. 

One  trifling  circumstance  will  serve  to  show  the  gene¬ 
rous  disposition  of  the  Sultan.  On  the  day  succeeding 
the  audience,  he  expressed  to  the  Grand  Yizier  his  desire 
to  tender  me  a  present,  such  as  became  a  sovereign  to 
make,  and  directed  him  to  ascertain  in  what  mode  it 
would  be  most  acceptable  to  myself.  When  his  wish  was 
made  known  to  me,  I  replied,  that  I  felt  sufficiently  com¬ 
pensated  by  an  audience,  which,  I  had  been  given  to 
understand,  was  never  before  granted  to  any  but  officers 
of  the  highest  rank ;  and  that,  even  if  the  constitution  of 
my  country  did  not  prohibit  it,  I  could  not  accept  a  remu¬ 
neration  for  an  act  of  duty  that  had  been  rendered  so 
grateful  in  its  performance.  I  further  added,  that  more 
than  any  present,  I  would  prize  the  granting  of  the 
firman. 

The  peculiar  honour  intended  to  be  conferred  by  the 
audience,  I  ascribed  to  the  high  standing  and  correspond¬ 
ing  influence  of  our  minister,  Mr.  Carr. 

That  gentleman’s  reputation  needs  not  my  shallow  tri¬ 
bute  to  swell  his  tide  of  merited  popularity.  In  every 
manly  and  political  relation,  he  was  all  that  we  could 
desire  to  see  in  a  representative  of  our  country.  Sparing 
no  exertion  in  our  behalf,  he  had  failed  in  one  thing  only, 
for  which  I  was  most  solicitous,  —  that  the  officers  who 


VISIT  TO  THE  MOSQUE  OF  VICTORY.  79 

were  with  me  should  also  be  admitted  to  the  audience. 
The  application  was  courteously,  but  firmly  refused,  and 
the  audience  granted  was  strictly  a  private  one. 

My  instructions  from  the  Navy  Department,  when  I  left 
the  United  States,  were  to  apply,  through  our  Minister  at 
the  Ottoman  Porte,  for  a  firman,  authorising  our  party  to 
pass  through  the  Turkish  dominions,  in  Syria,  to  the 
Dead  Sea.  It  was  asked  as  a  matter  of  respect  to  the 
Turkish  government,  and  to  procure  facilities  from  its 
officials,  when  in  their  vicinities.  As  to  protection  against 
the  Arabs,  it  could  afford  none  whatever;  for  Eastern 
travellers  well  know  that,  ten  miles  east  of  a  line  drawn 
from  Jerusalem  to  Nabulus,  the  tribes  roam  uncontrolled, 
and  rob  and  murder  with  impunity.  Mr.  Carr  fully  car¬ 
ried  out  the  instructions  he  had  received,  and  did  his  best 
to  procure  the  firman. 

Before  leaving  Constantinople,  in  part  with  the  officers, 
in  part  alone,  I  visited  some  of  the  principal  mosques,  the 
seraglio,  the  arsenal,  and  the  fleet,  and  found  that  the  per¬ 
mission  given  by  the  Sultan  was  not  an  idle  compliment. 

We  first  visited  the  mosque  of  Victory,  built  by  the  late 
Sultan,  to  which  I  have  before  alluded.  It  is  throughout 
of  white  marble,  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  large  quadran¬ 
gular  court,  near  the  inlet  of  the  Golden  Horn,  from  the 
Bosporus.  It  has  a  colonnade  all  around  it;  the  columns 
supporting  it,  lofty  and  well-proportioned.  Drawing  slip¬ 
pers  over  our  boots,  we  lifted  a  corner  of  the  mat  which 
hung  as  a  curtain  over  the  door-way,  and  entered  within 
the  mosque.  It  is  a  lofty  rotunda,  the  vaulted  roof 
sweeping  gracefully  above  it,  at  the  height  of  upwards  of 
a  hundred  feet.  It  has  high  windows,  with  Saracenic 
arches  at  the  sides,  and  Arabic  sentences  from  the  Koran 
are  inscribed  in  gilt  characters  around  the  walls.  Front¬ 
ing  the  entrance,  the  mihrab  (a  stone  set  in  a  recess) 
indicates  the  direction  of  the  Kebla  of  Mecca,  towards 


80  INTERIOR  OF  THE  MOSQUE. 

which  the  faithful  turn,  when  they  make  their  prostra¬ 
tions  and  recite  their  prayers.  A  little  to  the  right  of 
the  mihrab  was  the.  minber  (an  elevated  pulpit),  where 
the  Cheatib,  or  Imaum,  reads  the  chapters  from  the  Koran. 
There  were  no  paintings,  no  sculpture,  no  furniture.  The 
only  ornaments,  the  mihrab  and  the  minber,  being  of  a 
semi-transparent  alabaster  and  pea-green  marble.  Fur¬ 
ther  to  the  right  was  a  gallery,  screened  by  Arabesque 
gilt  lattice-work,  for  the  accommodation  of  the  Sultan, 
when  he  attends  the  mosque.  Besides  the  characters  from 
the  Koran,  which  formed  a  kind  of  zone  around  the  cor¬ 
nice,  the  walls  were  covered  with  chequered  lines  of 
various  colours,  which  gave  them  a  light  and  not  un¬ 
pleasing  appearance.  The  floor  was  richly  carpeted,  and 
two  large  chandeliers  hung  suspended  from  the  ceiling. 
Ascending  to  the  gallery,  we  found  several  apartments, 
the  floors  covered  with  carpets  of  English  manufacture, 
which  led  to  the  latticed  gallery-room,  overlooking  the 
interior  of  the  mosque.  It  had  simply  a  carpet  on  the 
floor,  and  a  divan  with  cushions  on  one  side ;  on  the  other 
side  was  a  beautiful  boudoir,  with  Persian  carpet,  French 
curtains  and  mirrors,  and  with  divans  of  rich  sky-blue 
damask  silk.  This  last  is  intended  as  a  place  of  repose, 
when  the  Sultan  returns  from  his  devotions. 

Over  the  door  of  the  former  was  inscribed  in  large  gilt 
characters,  the  words  “  the  Sultan  is  the  shadow  of  God 
on  earth.”  Beside  the  mosque  were  two  cylindrical,  hol¬ 
low  shafts  of  marble,  called  minarets,  with  a  gallery  run¬ 
ning  around  each  near  the  top,  whence  the  muezzin  calls 
the  faithful  to  prayer.  Within  the  mosque  there  were  no 
devotees  —  no  officiating  dervishes.  Perhaps,  like  some 
fashionable  churches  with  us,  it  is  too  aristocratic  for 
daily  worship,  and  set  forms  on  set  days  alone  indicate 
the  object  of  its  institution. 

Thence  we  crossed  the  Golden  Horn  in  caiques,  and 


MOSQUE  OF  ST.  SOPHIA.  81 

landing  on  Seraglio  Point,  by  an  old  kiosk,  proceeded 
to  the  mosque  of  St.  Sophia,  —  externally,  an  indescriba¬ 
ble  mass  of  blocks  and  domes,  with  outstanding  minarets 
beside  it.  This  former  Christian  church,  built  by  Con¬ 
stantine  the  Great  in  the  fourth,  and  rebuilt  by  Jus¬ 
tinian  in  the  sixth  century,  has  often  passed  through  the 
scathing  ordeal  of  fire,  and  witnessed  many  revolutions 
around  it.  Unfortunately,  a  number  of  workmen  were 
employed  in  repairing  it,  and  from  near  the  floor  to  the 
roof  of  the  dome,  its  interior  presented  one  entangled  net¬ 
work  of  scaffolding.  This  church,  first  called  the  66  temple 
of  Divine  Wisdom,”  was  built  of  granite  and  porphyry, 
and  white,  blue,  green,  black  and  veined  marbles.  It  has 
eight  porphyry  columns,  taken  by  Aurelius  from  the  great 
temple  of  the  sun  at  Baelbec;  eight  jasper  ones  from  the 
temple  of  Diana  at  Ephesus ;  and  others  from  Troas, 
Cyzicus,  Athens  and  the  Cyclades.  Its  dome  and  roof  are 
supported  by  columns  of  the  temples  of  Isis  and  Osiris ; 
of  the  sun  and  moon,  at  Heliopolis  and  Ephesus ;  of 
Minerva,  at  Athens ;  of  Phoebus,  at  Delos ;  and  of  Cybele, 
at  Cyzicus.  Over  the  main  cross,  were  inscribed  the 
words  of  the  vision,  66  In  hoc  signo  vinces.” 

After  its  destruction  by  fire,  it  was  sixteen  years  re¬ 
building.  When  completed,  Justinian  entered  with  the 
Patriarch  on  Christmas  day,  and  running  alone  to  the 
pulpit,  cried  out,  66  God  be  praised,  who  hath  esteemed 
me  worthy  to  complete  such  a  work.  Solomon,  I  have 
surpassed  thee !” 

This  church  is  in  the  form  of  a  Greek  cross,  180  feet 
high,  269  long,  and  143  broad.  It  has  one  large  central 
and  two  side  domes ;  its  walls  are  of  polished  stones,  and 
it  is  paved  with  large  flags.  Within  the  cupola,  is  in¬ 
scribed  the  verse  of  the  Koran,  “  God  is  the  light  of  the 
heavens  and  the  earth.”  It  has  two  banners,  one  on  each 
side  of  the  minber,  denoting  the  victories  of  Ismalism  over 

F 


82 


MOSQUE  OF  SULTAN  AHMED. 


Judaism  and  Christianity;  and  on  the  nights  of  the  Rama¬ 
dan,  when  this,  as  well  as  all  the  other  mosques,  are  illu¬ 
minated,  the  Imaum  mounts  it  with  a  wooden  sword  in 
his  hand.  On  each  minaret  is  a  gilt  crescent. 

Upon  the  interior  surface  of  the  great  dome  and  the 
vaulted  roofs  of  the  transept,  we  counted  many  crosses  in 
mosaic,  the  work  of  its  Christian  architect.  A  number 
of  workmen  were  employed  scaling  off  the  plaster,  which, 
in  a  more  bigoted  day,  had  been  spread  over  the  interior 
walls  of  this  once  rich  and  beautiful  church.  When  Con¬ 
stantinople  was  taken  by  Muhammed  II.,  he  forced  his 
charger  through  a  throng  of  priests  and  nuns,  who  had 
fled  to  the  sacred  temple,  and  riding  up  to  the  high  altar, 
sprang  from  his  horse  and  exclaimed,  “  there  is  no  God 
hut  God  —  and  Muhammed  is  his  prophet !”  This  dese¬ 
cration  was  the  signal  for  murder,  violation  and  every 
horrible  excess. 

Ascending  to  the  gallery,  supported  on  columns  of 
jasper,  we  were  led  out  upon  the  swelling  roof,  dazzling 
with  reflected  light,  to  look  upon  the  bee-hive  city  and 
its  circumjacent  scenes.  On  leaving  the  mosque,  our 
curiosity  ungratified  from  its  condition,  we  were  accosted 
by  many  boys,  proffering  for  sale  pieces  of  mosaic,  that 
had  fallen  from  the  ceiling. 

We  next  visited  the  mosque  “  Sultan  Ahmed,”  which, 
unlike  the  rest,  has  six  minarets  beside  it.  It  seemed 
larger  even  than  St.  Sophia,  but  is  entirely  destitute  of 
decoration,  save  a  multitude  of  small  lamps,  each  sus- 
jiended  by  a  separate  chain,  and  reaching  from  the  ceiling 
to  within  eight  feet  of  the  pavement.  There  are  also 
four  enormous  columns  supporting  the  dome,  their  height 
scarce  twice  exceeding  their  diameter;  they  are  108  feet  in 
circumference.  Their  disproportioned  bulk,  with  the  nu¬ 
merous  chains  and  small  parti-coloured  lamps,  very  much 
impair  the  effect  of  an  otherwise  magnificent  interior. 


MUHAM  MEDAN  APATHY. 


83 


There  were  sparrows  flitting  about  among  groups  of 
worshippers ;  and  in  a  remote  corner  was  a  Nubian,  with 
his  head  bent  to  the  pavement  in  prostration.  Just 
within  the  great  door,  a  Turkish  scribe  was  copying  the 
Koran.  In  the  gallery  were  many  boxes,  said  to  be 
filled  with  the  treasures  of  the  faithful,  who  had  depo¬ 
sited  them  there,  when  starting  on  the  pilgrimage  to 
Mecca.  There  were  some  twenty  or  thirty  persons  pre¬ 
sent  ;  a  few,  like  the  black,  engaged  in  their  devotions, 
but  the  greater  number  wandered  about,  with  little  reve¬ 
rence  in  their  deportment;  and  the  boys,  who  had  fol¬ 
lowed  us  from  St.  Sophia,  were  importunate  in  offering 
their  mosaics  for  sale.  If  a  stranger  could  be  justified  in 
forming  an  opinion  on  so  grave  a  subject,  founded  on  the 
observation  of  a  few  weeks,  he  might  be  led  to  conclude, 
from  the  universal  apathy  prevailing  around  him,  that 
the  religion  of  Muhammed  is  now  in  about  the  same  con¬ 
dition  as  was  the  Polytheism  of  Pagan  Rome,  immediately 
prior  to  the  introduction  of  Christianity. 

Justinian  and  Muhammed  II.,  the  rebuilder  and  dese- 
crater  of  the  great  temple,  lie  together  in  a  mosque  erected 
by  the  last  on  the  site  of  the  church  of  the  Holy  Apostles. 
There  are  none  so  wholly  evil  as  not  to  possess  some 
redeeming  trait.  It  is  related  of  this  Muhammed,  that, 
when  building  his  mosque,  a  poor  woman  refused,  on  any 
terms,  to  dispose  of  her  dilapidated  house,  which  stood 
within  the  precincts ;  and  the  monarch,  respecting  her 
rights,  allowed  it  to  stand,  a  monument  of  his  own  justice, 
until,  at  her  death,  he  became  peaceably  possessed  of  it. 
The  same  mosque  contains  the  tomb  of  Sultan  Selim,  the 
conqueror  of  Egypt.  On  it,  the  following  words  are 
inscribed : 

“  On  this  day,  the  Sultan  Selim  passed  to  his  eternal 
kingdom,  leaving  the  empire  of  the  world  to  Sulieman.” 

From  the  mosque  “  Sultan  Ahmed”  we  passed  into  the 


84 


THE  HIPPODROME. 


Hippodrome,  formed  by  the  emperor  Severus.  It  is  now 
upwards  of  700  feet  long,  and  nearly  500  broad.  In  it  is 
the  great  obelisk  of  Thebaic  stone,  a  four-sided  pyramidal 
shaft,  of  one  entire  piece,  fifty  feet  high,  and  covered  with 
hieroglyphics.  A  short  distance  from  it  is  the  fragment 
of  another,  composed  of  different  pieces  of  marble,  and 
once  covered  with  brass  plates.  At  one  end  stands  the 
“  brazen  column,”  consisting  of  three  serpents  embracing 
in  spiral  folds,  and  supposed  to  have  been  brought  from 
Delphi,  where  it  supported  the  golden  tripod,  which  the 
Greeks,  after  the  battle  of  Platsea,  found  in  the  camp  of 
Mardonius.  While  standing  here,  our  minds  absorbed 
in  the  past,  we  were  brought  back  to  the  present  by  the 
muezzin’s  call  to  prayer  from  the  numerous  minarets 
around.  The  sonorous  tones  of  the  muezzins,  and  the 
solemn  import  of  the  words,  appeal  strongly  to  the  senses, 
and  in  a  crowded  city  are  more  appropriate,  as  they  are 
certainly  more  impressive,  than  the  discordant  sounds  of 
our  clanging  bells.  But,  if  “  use  doth  breed  a  habit  in  a 
man,”  so  a  habit,  once  acquired,  becomes  frequently  a 
mere  physical  matter,  independent  of  and  sometimes 
apart  from  the  mind.  The  Turks  passing  to  and  fro  in 
the  Hippodrome  paid  no  attention  to  the  muezzin’s  call, 
which,  if  not  unheard,  was  wholly  unheeded. 

Within  the  Hippodrome  we  saw  what  we  had  all  been 
taught  to  consider  the  dromedary,  viz.,  a  camel  with  two 
humps  upon  its  back.  But  we  learned  from  good  au¬ 
thority  that  the  dromedary  differs  from  the  camel  only  in 
possessing  more  agility  and  swiftness ;  the  first  bearing 
the  same  relation  to  the  second  that  the  thorough-bred 
horse  does  to  the  heavy,  plodding  hack.  The  camel  and 
the  dromedary  have  each  one  hump ;  those  with  two  are 
rare  exceptions,  and  an  authentic  writer  states  that  in  a 
caravan  of  five  thousand  camels,  he  saw  not  more  than 
eight  or  ten  with  two  humps.  The  one  we  saw  was  a 


TOMB  OF  SULTAN  MAHMOUD.  85 

Bactrian  camel,  the  camel  of  central  Asia,  which,  unlike 
the  others,  has  frequently  two  humps.  It  is  found  in  the 
Crimea,  and  the  countries  bordering  on  the  Caucasus. 
But  the  Hippodrome,  or  the  Atmeidan,  is  interesting  as 
the  theatre  of  the  most  fearful  tragedy  of  modern  times 
— the  slaughter  of  the  Janissaries. 

From  the  Hippodrome  we  were  conducted  to  the  mau¬ 
soleum  containing  the  tomb  of  the  Sultan  Mahmoud  and 
several  of  his  family.  It  is  a  lofty  circular  room,  with  a 
vaulted  ceiling,  —  the  whole  admirably  proportioned  and 
exquisitely  finished.  The  architect  was  an  Italian,  and 
the  groined  roof  and  beautiful  foliage  of  flowers  in  stucco, 
around  the  cornice,  proved  that  he  was  a  master  in  his 
calling.  Everything,  save  the  tombs,  is  of  the  softest 
and  purest  white. 

The  tomb  of  Mahmoud  is  a  sarcophagus  about  eight 
feet  high  and  as  many  long,  covered  with  purple  cloth 
embroidered  in  gold,  and  many  votive  shawls  of  the 
richest  cashmere  thrown  over  it,  any  one  of  which  would 
excite  attention  and  awaken  cupidity  in  the  female  breast. 
At  the  head  is  the  crimson  tarbouch  which  the  monarch 
wore  in  life,  with  a  lofty  plume  secured  by  a  large  and 
lustrous  aigrette  of  diamonds.  The  following  words  are 
inscribed  in  letters  of  gold  on  the  face  of  the  tomb : 

This  is  the  tomb 

Of  the  layer  of  the  basis  of  the  civilization 
Of  his  empire : 

Of  the  monarch  of  exalted  place, 

The  Sultan  victorious  and  just, 

Mahmoud  Khan, 

Son  of  the  victorious  Abd’  al  Hamid  Khan. 

(May  the  Almighty  make  his  abode  in  the  gardens  of  Paradise.) 

Born,  Rebuel  Evol  14,  1199. 

Accession,  Jemaji  Evol  4,  1228. 

Death,  m.  9,  1255. 

Reigned  31  years,  10  months,  14  days. 


8 


86 


TURKISH  REFORMS. 


According  to  the  impelling  motive,  the  hero  or  the 
butcher  of  the  Almeidan,  he  died  peaceably  in  his  bed,  by 
whose  word  of  command,  thousands  of  his  fellow-creatures 
were  swept  from  existence.  Whether  the  dictates  of 
an  unfeeling,  or  a  sound  yet  reluctant  policy,  the  mas¬ 
sacre  of  the  Janissaries  is  a  fearful  page  in  his  life’s  his¬ 
tory.  How  difficult,  and  how  thankless,  is  the  task  of 
a  reformer !  Mahmoud,  who  sagaciously  discerned  the 
superiority  of  the  arts  of  civilization  over  wild  barbaric 
force,  commenced  the  radical  reform  of  a  people  univer¬ 
sally  regarded  as  the  most  impracticable  in  the  world. 
With  an  indomitable  energy,  worthy  of  a  better  result, 
he  persevered  to  the  hour  of  his  death.  How  his  efforts 
were  seconded  by  the  Christian  kingdoms  of  Europe,  let 
the  destruction  of  his  fleet  at  Navarino,  and  the  partial 
dismemberment  of  his  empire,  attest.  By  destroying  the 
turbulent  and  rapacious  Janissaries,  although  his  people 
were  benefited,  he  crushed,  perhaps  for  ever,  that  fanatic 
courage,  founded  on  fatalism  and  bigotry,  which  had  so 
often  led  the  Muslim  troops  to  victory. 

Whether  the  efforts  made  by  the  late  Sultan,  and  now 
making  by  Abd’  al  Medjid,  his  successor,  will  result  in 
the  civilization  or  the  downfall  of  the  Ottoman  Empire, 
remains  to  be  determined.  From  the  eager  employment 
of  Franks,  the  introduction  of  foreign  machinery,  and 
the  adoption  of  improved  modes  of  cultivating  the  land, 
the  present  Sultan  gives  the  strongest  assurance  of  his 
anxiety  to  promote  the  welfare  of  his  people.  But  the 
very  attempt  at  a  higher  development  of  national  cha¬ 
racter,  has  led  to  greater  military  weakness ;  and  the 
fable  of  the  Wolf  and  the  Lamb,  its  actors  represented  by 
Bussia  and  the  Porte,  will  ere  long  be  transferred  to  the 
page  of  history. 

After  the  tomb  of  Mahmoud,  we  were  shown  the 
“  Burnt  Cojumn,”  so  called  from  its  having  been  charred 


SUBTERRANEAN  CISTERN. 


87 


and  blackened  by  numerous  conflagrations  around  it.  It 
is  of  porphyry,  and  was  brought  from  Rome  by  Constan¬ 
tine  the  Great,  whose  statue,  it  is  supposed,  stood  upon 
its  summit — others  say,  an  Apollo  by  Phidias,  which  was 
struck  by  lightning.  Constantine  placed  some  relics  be¬ 
neath  it,  whence  Christians  make  the  sign  of  the  cross 
in  passing  it.  It  is  composed  of  eight  stones,  the  joints 
covered  with  copper;  hence,  some  travellers  have  de¬ 
scribed  it  as  a  monolith.  At  present,  it  is  disfigured  and 
unsightly.  Constantine  inscribed  these  words  on  the 
pedestal : — 66  Oh  Christ !  king  and  master  of  the  universe, 
I  consecrate  this  humble  tower,  this  sceptre,  and  the 
power  of  Rome,  to  thee  !  Have  them  in  thy  holy  keep¬ 
ing,  and  preserve  them  from  misfortune.” 

We  were  also  taken  to  the  cistern  of  a  thousand  and 
one  columns.  Descending  a  long  flight  of  wooden  stairs, 
dimly  lighted  from  the  low  door,  we  came  upon  a  subter¬ 
raneous  colonnade  of  apparently  unknown  dimensions.  A 
subterranean  palace,  its  vaulted  roof  supported  by  some 
hundreds  of  white  marble  columns  of  double  height,  will 
give  the  best  idea  of  the  wonderful  cisterns  of  this  ancient 
capital.  Now,  the  whole  interior  is  filled  with  earth  and 
rubbish  half  the  height  of  the  lower  tier  of  columns,  and 
we  found  it  occupied  by  silk  spinners,  who  seemed  merrily 
to  ply  their  tasks,  despite  the  damp  and  gloom  of  their 
singular  work-shop. 

Prom  the  summit  of  a  tower  similar  to  that  at  Galata, 
we  had  all  Constantinople  at  our  feet.  From  above, 
the  dense  masses  of  dingy  roofs  loomed  up  the  magnifi¬ 
cent  domes  of  St.  Sophia,  Sultan  Ahmed,  and  other 
mosques,  with  their  alabaster-like  minarets  beside  them, 
—  and  beyond,  semi-girdled  by  the  sea,  is  the  Seraglio,  or 
palace  of  the  Sultans,  covering  the  site  of  the  ancient 
Byzantium.  It  is  rather  a  collection  of  palaces  and  gar¬ 
dens,  relieved  and  beautifully  ornamented  by  the  light 


V 


88  THE  BAZAARS. 

airy  forms  of  the  arrowy  cypress.  But  it  is  impossible  to 
pourtray  the  striking  and  beautiful  effect  of  a  scene  liko 
this,  which  so  charmed 

“The  charming  Mary  Montagu.” 

On  our  way  to  the  bazaars,  we  stumbled  upon  the 
mosque  of  Bajazet,  the  court  of  which  is  surrounded  by 
a  row  of  old  columns,  evidently  pillaged  from  one  or 
more  heathen  temples  of  remote  antiquity.  Ten  were  of 
verde  antique,  six  of  Egyptian  granite,  and  four  of  jasper. 
In  the  court  is  a  fountain  and  some  wintry  trees,  their 
branches  darkened  by  many  pigeons.  The  love  of  ani¬ 
mals  inculcated  by  the  prophet  is  beautifully  shown  in 
the  court  of  this  mosque,  where  some  thousands  of  pigeons 
were  being  fed  by  an  old  Turk  from  a  chest  of  grain. 
This  chest  is  supported  by  charitable  contributions,  and 
we  saw  an  old,  poor  man, drop  in  his  copper  mite.  When 
the  pigeons  came  down  from  tree,  and  roof,  and  cornice, 
they  darkened  the  air,  and  while  feeding  presented  an 
immense  surface  of  blue  backs  and  tails. 

The  bazaars  form  a  labyrinth  of  narrow  streets,  arched 
over  like  some  of  our  arcades,  with  mean-looking  shops 
on  each  side.  We  were  compelled  to  pick  our  way  over 
round  paving-stones  coated  with  mud,  jostled  every  mo¬ 
ment  by  people  of  all  nations  hurrying  hither  and  thither 
in  their  busy  pursuits.  The  Turk  sits  smoking  dignified 
and  silent  until  you  express  a  desire  to  see  an  article  in 
his  shop ;  but  the  Christians,  and  more  particularly  the 
Jews,  fix  upon  you  with  a  tenacity  that  renders  it  diffi¬ 
cult  to  shake  them  off.  At  length,  we  struck  up  a  trad¬ 
ing  friendship  with  Mehemet  Effendi,  a  Turkish  dealer  in 
perfumes  and  embroidery,  which  continued  during  our 
stay  at  Constantinople.  In  his  neat  back  shop  we  were 
always  sure  to  be  regaled  with  pipes,  coffee,  and  a  cool, 
delicious  preparation  of  cream.  He  seemed  to  possess 


CHAFFERING  WITH  A  TURK.  89 

Aladdin’s  lamp,  for  we  could  call  for  nothing  that  was  not 
immediately  forthcoming,  from  a  jasmine  pipe-stem  to  the 
golden  embroidery  of  Persia ;  from  the  attar  of  roses  to 
the  Indian  cashmere. 

It  is  customary  here,  for  a  merchant  to  ask  a  great  deal 
more  than  he  expects  you  to  give.  You  offer,  perhaps, 
one-third  of  his  demand — he  abates  a  little  ;  you  become 
somewhat  more  liberal,  until  at  length  the  bargain  is 
closed,  much  to  the  annoyance  of  those  accustomed  to 
the  one  price  system ;  for  one  never  knows  that  he  has 
not  been  cheated.  We  had  provided  ourselves  with  a 
few  Turkish  phrases  for  the  occasion,  and  our  shopping 
proceeded  much  after  this  manner.  Taking  up  an  amber 
mouthpiece,  of  a  pure  lemon  colour,  (the  most  prized 
among  the  Turks,)  “ Katch  krutch  ?”  (How  many  piastres  ?) 
we  asked. 

Mehemet  Effendi.  — cc  Yus  eli ”  (150  piastres,  about  six 
dollars) . 

That  being  altogether  too  much,  we  replied, 

u  Chock  paxhali”  (It  is  too  dear). 

Whereupon  Mehemet,  with  oriental  gravity,  entered 
upon  a  long  dissertation  on  the  virtues  and  value  of  the 
mouthpiece,  —  which,  being  in  a  language  we  did  not 
understand,  had  no  effect  whatever.  However,  we  offered 
fifty  piastres;  and  after  much  talking,  smoking  divers 
pipes,  and  drinking  divers  tiny  cups  of  coffee,  the  bargain 
was  closed  at  one  hundred  piastres. 

Feb.  22.  All  good  Musselmen  go  to  mosque  on  Fridays, 
besides  praying  five  times  a  day.  The  Sultan  goes  every 
Friday  to  a  different  mosque,  which  is  known  beforehand. 
For  the  purpose  of  seeing  his  sublime  majesty  in  public, 
we  went  this  morning  to  the  convent  of  dervishes  in  Pera, 
where  he  was  to  be  present.  A  small  collection  of  the 
faithful  had  assembled  in  the  court  of  the  mosque,  toge¬ 
ther  with  many  Christians,  Greeks,  Armenians,  and 
8* 


90 


THE  TURKISH  WOMEN. 


Franks.  The  convent  is  a  mean-looking  building,  in  the 
rear  of  a  street  of  small  shops  and  cafes,  with  a  neglected 
burial-ground  in  front  and  beside  it.  None  but  the  faith¬ 
ful  being  permitted  to  enter  a  mosque  when  the  Sultan 
attends,  we  were  constrained  to  remain  in  the  court, 
taking  our  position  near  the  entrance.  At  the  gate  of  the 
adjoining  grave-yard  were  a  number  of  females,  forming 
a  separate  crowd  of  yashmaks  and  gay-coloured  ferajes, 
with  black  eyes  and  henna-stained  fingers. 

Here  it  is  not  the  custom  for  men  to  notice,  much  less 
speak  to,  women  in  public ;  and  yet  the  constant  presence 
of  Turkish  women  in  the  streets  and  public  places,  shows 
that  they  are  prone  to  gad  about  as  much  as  some  of  their 
Christian  sisters  in  America  ;  but  if  restricted  from  the  use 
of  that  little  instrument  the  tongue,  they  contrive  to  do  con¬ 
siderable  execution  with  their  almond-shaped  eyes,  inky 
eyebrows,  and  half-an-alabaster  nose,  which  is  all  that  is 
exposed  to  view.  There  was  one  little  beauty  in  a  pink 
feraje,  with  an  extremely  thin  yashmak,  who  might  have 
been  an  Odalisque.  The  rest  of  them  looked  like  ghouls 
risen  from  the  graves,  upon  the  tomb-stones  of  which  they 
were  standing.  Most  of  the  grave-yards  we  had  seen 
were  much  neglected,  many  of  them  like  open  commons, 
the  turbaned  tomb-stones  standing  at  all  angles,  and  fre¬ 
quently  trampled  under  foot. 

It  was  amusing  to  observe  the  crowd,  like  ourselves, 
waiting  in  patient  expectation  to  see  the  grand  seignor. 
All  the  soldiers  and  more  respectable  people  wore  panta¬ 
loons  and  the  red  tarbouch ;  but  the  lower  classes,  ever 
the  first  to  move  and  the  last  to  be  benefited  by  a  revolu¬ 
tion,  adhered  to  the  turban  and  capacious  breeks,  with 
a  kind  of  tunic  to  match.  The  dervishes  were  moving 
about  with  serious  faces,  wearing  faded  brown  or  green 
cloaks,  with  felt  hats,  shaped  like  inverted  funnels,  upon 
their  heads. 


We  waited  for  some  time;  and  as  the  Sultan  was  about 
to  appear  in  public,  our  imagination  pictured  the  magni¬ 
ficent  entree  of  a  great  Ottoman  monarch, — troops  of 
warriors ;  splendidly  caparisoned  horses,  and  all  the  bar¬ 
baric  pomp  of  an  oriental  court, — when  a  low  murmur 
indicated  that  the  cortege  was  approaching. 

First  came,  walking  backwards,  the  Imaum  of  the  der¬ 
vishes,  in  a  high  green  felt  hat,  swinging  a  censer  filled 
with  burning  incense,  and  followed  by  a  grave,  melan¬ 
choly-looking  young  man,  with  a  rather  scanty  black 
beard,  the  red  tarbouch  upon  his  head,  and  wearing  a 
blue  military  frock-coat  and  fawn-coloured  pantaloons  ; 
the  coat  fringed  or  laced,  with  a  standing  collar, — fawn- 
coloured  gloves  upon  his  hands,  and  a  short  blue  cloak 
thrown  lightly  over  his  shoulders.  It  was  the  Sultan ! 
He  was  followed,  in  single  file,  by  six  or  eight  persons, 
attired  in  blue,  some  wearing  swords,  and  others  carrying 
small  leather  portfueilles,  richly  embossed  with  gold. 

Contrary  to  expectation,  the  Sultan  had  dismounted  out¬ 
side,  and  his  gait,  as  he  passed  us,  was  feeble  and  almost 
tottering.  Indeed,  most  of  the  Turks  walk  what  is 
termed  “  parrot  toed,” — very  much  like  our  Indians. 
Ascending  a  covered  stairway  to  an  upper  gallery,  with 
windows  towards  the  court,  he  approached  one  of  them, 
and  looked  intently  down  upon  us ;  but  our  interpreter 
imprudently  exclaiming,  “  V oila  le  Sultan  !  le  Sultan  !” 
he  turned  slowly  away,  we  presume,  to  his  devotions. 

Without  the  court,  were  his  horses;  splendid  steeds, 
caparisoned  in  richly-embroidered,  but  chaste  saddle¬ 
cloths,  which,  as  well  as  the  reins  and  the  pommels  of 
the  saddles,  were  studded  with  precious  stones;  the  head- 
pieces  were  embossed  gold,  and  the  frontlets  glittered  with 
gems. 

The  Sultan’s  figure  was  light,  and  apparently  feeble. 
I  thought  so  when  I  saw  him  before,  in  a  semi-obscure 


92 


THE  SERAGLIO. 


apartment,  and  his  appearance  this  day  confirmed  the 
impression.  The  expression  of  his  features  at  the  mo¬ 
ment  of  passing,  was  that  of  profound  melancholy.  Like 
the  Mexican  prince,  of  whom  he  so  much  reminded  me, 
his  mind  may  be  overshadowed  by  the  general  and 
spreading  opinion,  that  the  Ottoman  rule  upon  the  Euro¬ 
pean  side  of  Turkey  is  drawing  to  a  close.  This  impres¬ 
sion  has  become  so  prevalent,  that  hundreds,  when  they 
die,  direct  their  remains  to  be  interred  on  the  Asiatic 
side  of  the  Bosporus.  It  is  sad  to  think  that,  from  the 
destruction  of  the  Janissaries  by  Mahmoud  to  the  present 
time,  the  very  advancement  of  the  Turks  in  civilization 
should  increase  the  weakness,  and  precipitate  the  dis¬ 
memberment,  if  not  the  downfall,  of  the  empire  !  It  was 
a  singular  scene !  A  few  ragged  Turks  in  the  old  turban, 
the  only  relic  of  the  past ;  the  mixture  of  European  cos¬ 
tumes  and  the  red  tarbouch ;  a  company  of  Christian 
officers,  from  a  far-off  land ;  the  mild-looking  young  Sul¬ 
tan,  so  humble !  so  gentle  !  with  so  little  parade  !  so  dif¬ 
ferent  from  his  haughty  Osmanlie  ancestors  !  And  then 
there  was  a  back-ground  of  veiled  women — the  ghouls 
peeping  out  of  the  grave-yard. 

Our  visit  to  the  Seraglio  deserves  an  especial  notice, 

not  that  we  saw  so  much,  but  that  we  saw  what  Franks 

are  rarely  permitted  to  look  upon.  We  landed  at  the  old 

■0 

kiosk  with  the  green  curtains,  and  exhibiting  our  firman, 
were  permitted  to  enter  the  precincts  of  the  Seraglio. 
Serai  is  the  Turkish  word  for  palace,  whence  this  princi¬ 
pal  one  of  the  Sultan’s  is  called,  par  excellence,  the 
Seraglio. 

Passing  through  an  arched  gateway,  between  files  of 
sentinels,  we  came  upon  an  open  space.  Near  us,  on  the 
left,  looking  towards  the  sea  of  Marmara,  was  a  large 
caserne  or  infantry  barracks.  To  the  right,  crowning  the 
elevation  of  the  hill,  were  the  halls  of  audience,  the  trea- 


TURKISH  BARRACKS.  93 

sury,  the  library,  and  the  kiosk  for  the  entertainment  of 
foreign  ambassadors.  On  the  declivity  of  the  hill  were 
the  royal  stables,  and  further  beyond,  but  yet  upon  the 
slope,  looking  out  upon  the  sea  of  Marmara  and  the  Bos¬ 
phorus,  were  the  royal  palaces  and  harem.  Between  the 
latter  and  the  wall,  which  rounds  with  the  sweep  of  the 
sea,  is  an  extensive  court,  where  the  annual  caravan  to 
Mecca  assembles  in  order  that  the  sovereign  and  his 
harem  may  witness  its  departure.  Immediately  looking 
upon  it,  are  the  windows  of  the  harem,  screened  with  fine 
gilt  lattice  work.  The  buildings  are  oriental,  very  an¬ 
cient,  and  well  adapted  to  the  climate.  The  Turks 
believe,  and  with  some  reason,  that,  in  a  changeable  cli¬ 
mate,  like  this,  frame  houses  are  drier  and  healthier  than 
those  constructed  of  a  more  durable  material. 

We  first  visited  the  barracks,  where  a  large  number  of 
Turkish  soldiers,  shaved  and  dressed  like  Europeans,  ex¬ 
cept  the  moustache  and  the  tarbouch,  received  us  with 
the  Asiatic  salute.  Elsewhere  in  Europe,  the  soldier 
touches  his  cap ;  here,  they  bring  the  hand  first  to  the  lip 
and  then  to  the  forehead,  with  a  quick  and  graceful 
motion.  The  wdiole  caserne  was  scrupulously  clean,  the 
bread  dark  coloured,  but  well  baked  and  sweet.  The 
colonel,  who  politely  accompanied  us,  said  that  the  basti¬ 
nado  had  been  discontinued,  on  account  of  its  injuring 
the  culprit’s  eyes.  Their  mode  of  punishment  is  now 
similar  to  our  own. 

Before  entering  the  sacred  precincts  of  the  Seraglio 
proper,  we  were  required  to  take  off  our  overshoes,  which 
we  had  donned  for  the  purpose.  Turks  of  both  sexes 
wear  a  loose  half-boot  of  thin  morocco,  either  red  or  yel¬ 
low,  which  fits  into  a  similarly  coloured  slipper,  with  a 
hard  rounding  sole,  but  open  at  the  heel.  The  custom 
of  throwing  off  this  loose  slipper  on  entering  an  apart¬ 
ment,  is  not  so  much  a  superstitious  one,  as  it  is  a  matter 


94  BATHS  OF  THE  SERAGLIO. 

of  absolute  necessity  in  a  country  where  everybody  sits 
upon  the  floor.  These  palaces  are  rarely  occupied,  the 
Sultan  usually  residing  at  Beschich  Tasch  or  Cherighan. 

Ascending  a  broad  flight  of  stairs,  we  passed  at  once 
through  extensive  suites  of  apartments,  furnished  in  a 
costly  but  gaudy  and  tasteless  manner.  The  most  modern 
articles  of  furniture  were  of  French  manufacture.  Each 
suite  consisted  of  three  or  four  sleeping  apartments,  two 
baths,  two  sitting  rooms,  and  a  banqueting  hall,  the  latter 
circular,  large,  and  lofty.  We  passed  through  a  variety 
of  saloons  and  their  corresponding  apartments,  including 
those  of  the  harem.  They  were  but  partially  furnished. 
In  most  of  them  were  one  or  two  couches,  profusely  gilt, 
and  covered  with  golden  fret-work  —  some  oblong,  and 
some  oval.  The  apartments  directly  over  the  court  are 
truly  beautiful,  and  command  a  glorious  view  of  the  sea 
of  Marmara  and  the  shipping  in  the  Golden  Horn. 

The  harem  looks  out  both  upon  the  court  and  the 
water,  but  to  the  windows  were  fitted  gilt  arabesque  grat¬ 
ings,  to  screen  the  sultanas  within.  What  scenes  have 
been  enacted  in  these  apartments  !  What  intrigues,  mur¬ 
ders  and  sewing  up  in  sacks  !  Alas,  poor  woman  ! 

Here  are  marble  baths  with  alabaster  fountains,  and 
domes  thickly  studded  with  glass-liglits  overhead  —  the 
bath  of  the  harem !  where  many  a  Circassian  form  has 
laved ! 

A  bath  with  us  signifies  a  trough  of  some  kind  for  one 
to  get  into,  but  the  Turkish  bath  is  different.  The  mar¬ 
ble  floor  of  the  apartment  is  highly  heated,  and  hot  and 
cold  water,  flowing  through  cocks  into  alabaster  basins,  is 
thence  thrown  lavishly  upon  it.  Here  you  are  scraped, 
scrubbed,  lathered,  and  washed  off. 

There  are  two  long  galleries  looking  out  upon  the 
court.  Along  the  inner  wall  of  each,  opposite  to  the  lat¬ 
ticed  windows,  were  a  series  of  engravings,  mostly  French, 


FURNITURE  OF  THE  SERAGLIO.  95 

with  but  two  or  three  oil  paintings.  Napoleon  must  have 
been  a  great  favourite  with  the  reigning  monarch  when 
the  modern  engravings  were  placed  in  this  sensual  sanc¬ 
tuary,  for  besides  a  likeness  of  himself,  nearly  every  one 
portrayed  some  scene  in  his  eventful  career. 

The  other  gallery  was  furnished  mostly  with  mere 
daubs  —  strange  to  say,  naval  pieces  —  in  which  the  most 
outre  looking  Turkish  ships,  in  most  grotesque  rig,  and 
under  most  impossible  circumstances,  were  represented  as 
triumphant  over  adversaries  more  formidable  and  far 
more  frightful  than  themselves.  In  the  harem  there  was 
little  tangible  to  feed  the  imagination,  and  it  was  thrown 
back  upon  the  sad  associations  connected  with  its  myste¬ 
rious  history. 

In  one  of  the  palaces  is  a  chair,  looking  very  French 
notwithstanding  its  Persian  embroidery.  It  is  the  Sul¬ 
tan’s  throne — but  nothing  more  in  fact  than  a  large  arm¬ 
chair  covered  with  crimson  velvet,  embroidered  in  gold, 
and  placed  on  a  semi-circular  platform  elevated  about  six 
inches  above  the  floor.  Although  gorgeous  to  the  eye,  it 
is  less  comfortable  than  one  of  those  formerly  in  the  east 
‘room  in  Washington. 

On  one  side  of  most  of  the  rooms  were  divans,  but 
others  had  only  the  more  modern  substitutes  of  sofas  and 
chairs.  The  cushions  of  the  divans  were  each  one  as 
large  as  a  double  feather  bed,  and  covered  with  the 
richest  damask  or  velvet,  profusely  embroidered.  The 
prevailing  colours  were  crimson  and  blue.  The  tables, 
with  costly  covers  upon  them,  were  of  plain  mahogany ; 
the  chairs  had  embroidered  backs  and  seats ;  but  the 
palace  and  harem  being  unoccupied,  the  carpets  were  up 
and  the  curtains  removed,  except  one  suite,  kept  always 
in  order  for  the  Sultan.  The  divan,  carpet,  curtains, 
chairs,  sofa,  and  bed-coverings  of  this  suite,  were  blue, 
embroidered  with  silver. 


96 


HALL  OF  AMBASSADORS. 


Passing  through,  a  retired  garden  of  the  harem,  with  its 
orangery,  its  pond  of  gold-fish,  and  evergreens  cut  in  most 
fantastic  shapes,  but  not  many  flowers,  we  sat  for  a  few 
moments  in  its  kiosk  or  summer  pavilion,  and  thence  pro¬ 
ceeded  to  the  “  hall  of  ambassadors,”  in  the  old  palace. 
It  was  here  that,  with  barbaric  pomp,  foreign  ambassadors 
were  received,  after  going  through  divers  ceremonies,  com¬ 
pared  to  which,  the  Chinese  Kotan  is  a  reasonable  affair. 

When,  on  such  occasions,  the  proper  officer  announced 
to  the  Grand  Seignor  that  the  ambassador  of  one  of  the 
European  powers  craved  an  audience,  the  reply  was, 
“  Take  the  Christian  dog,  and  feed  him.”  When  the 
feeding  was  over,  and  the  second  application  made,  the 
order  was  given,  “  Clothe  the  Christian  dog,  and  bring 
him  in.”  A  cloak  was  then  thrown  over  the  shoulders 
of  the  ambassador,  who,  previously  disarmed,  was  led 
into  the  presence,  a  eunuch  holding  him  on  each  side. 
The  latter  custom  having  originated,  it  is  said,  (although 
history  is  silent  upon  the  subject,)  in  the  assassination 
of  a  Sultan  by  an  ambassador.  At  a  respectable  distance 
the  humble  representative  of  a  Christian  prince  was  per¬ 
mitted  to  state  his  business,  when  he  was  abruptly  dis¬ 
missed  to  undergo  a  second  feeding. 

Over  the  ambassadors’  gate  is  written, — 

“The  chief  of  wisdom  is  the  fear  of  God.” 

The  old  divan  upon  which  the  Sultans  formerly  reclined 
when  they  gave  audience,  looks  like  an  overgrown  four- 
poster,  each  post  covered  with  carbuncles  of  precious 
stones,  turquoise,  amethyst,  topaz,  emeralds,  ruby,  and 
diamond :  the  couch  was  covered  with  Damascus  silk  and 
Cashmere  shawls.  Here,  we  saw  the  last  of  the  white 
eunuchs;  the  present  enlightened  Sultan  having  pensioned 
off  those  on  hand,  and  discontinued  their  attendance  for 
ever. 


ARMORY  AND  STABLES. 


97 


The  outer  walls  of  the  seraglio  are  said  to  cover  the 
site  of  ancient  Byzantium,  and  to  be  three  miles  in  cir¬ 
cuit.  We  had  not  time  to  see  one-half  of  what  they  con¬ 
tained;  but  wandered  about  so  much,  —  up  and  down 
flights  of  stairs,  through  corridors,  saloons,  baths,  sleep¬ 
ing-apartments,  &c., — that  we  were  exceedingly  fatigued, 
even  when  we  left  the  harem. 

We  visited  the  armory,  and  saw  a  vast  store  of  muskets, 
pistols  and  swords,  kept  in  admirable  order,  besides  a  large 
collection  of  Saracenic  armour.  There  were  morions  and 
shirts  of  mail ;  plate-armour,  inlaid  with  golden  verses 
from  the  Koran;  huge  two-handed  swords;  gigantic  blun¬ 
derbusses,  of  every  shape  and  kind ;  long,  sharp  spears, 
and  other  formidable  weapons  of  war.  In  a  court,  were 
several  large  porphyry  tombs,  —  sarcophagi,  it  is  sup¬ 
posed,  of  some  of  the  imperial  families  of  Rome.  In  an 
extensive,  but  nearly  vacant  building,  was  an  abortive 
attempt  at  a  museum. 

Next  came  the  royal  stables,  in  which  were  about  thirty 
stallions,  tethered  to  the  ground-floor  by  their  feet,  and 
not  separated  by  stalls,  as  with  us.  Two  or  three  were 
splendid  Arabians  —  the  remainder,  ordinary  in  appear¬ 
ance.  They  were  kept  for  state,  and  rarely  used. 

Returning,  we  should  have  passed  the  “  Sublime  Porte” 
unnoticed,  had  not  our  attention  been  directed  to  a  large 
yellow-arched  gateway,  with  a  remarkable  turtle-shell¬ 
like  canopy  above  the  entrance.  From  this  gateway,  the 
divan  or  supreme  council,  which  holds  its  sitting  in  an 
ordinary  building  within,  is  called  the  66  Sublime  Porte.” 

Crossing  the  bridge  of  boats  over  the  Golden  Horn,  we 
observed  a  neat  little  steamer,  which  had  been  presented 
to  the  Sultan  by  the  Pasha  of  Egypt ;  and  the  former, 
shortly  after,  was  about  to  pass  on  board,  when,  unfortu¬ 
nately,  one  of  his  slippers  fell  off,  and  the  contemplated 
excursion  was  instantly  abandoned — never  to  be  resumed. 


98 


THE  BURIAL-GROUNDS. 


We  reached  our  quarters  wearied  in  body,  but  exceed¬ 
ingly  gratified.  Plow  beautiful  is  the  seraglio !  What 
magnificent  structures  are  the  mosques  !  How  light  and 
graceful  the  minarets !  yet  how  mean  and  filthy  the 
streets  !  what  smells  !  What  numbers  of  mangy  dogs  ! 

On  Sunday  afternoon  we  strolled  along  the  banks  of 
the  Bosphorus.  There  are  three  Sabbaths  in  each  week, 
one  for  each  religion  :  Friday,  the  Muhammedan ;  Satur¬ 
day,  the  Jew;  and  Sunday,  the  Christian.  Of  all,  the 
latter  is  held  most  sacred,  and  the  first  are  becoming  less 
and  less  observant  of  the  injunctions  of  the  Koran,  with 
regard  to  Friday. 

From  the  brow  of  a  steep  hill,  we  had  the  great  bury- 
ing-ground  of  Pera  beneath  us.  It  is  an  article  of  Muslim 
faith,  that  the  soul  of  a  deceased  person  cannot  be  ad¬ 
mitted  to  Paradise  until  the  body  is  interred,  (unless  he 
die  in  battle) ;  hence  there  is  but  a  brief  interval  from  the 
death-bed  to  the  grave.  These  densely-crowded  burial- 
grounds,  in  the  midst  of  a  populous  city,  must  be  exceed¬ 
ingly  detrimental  to  health.  It  is  related  of  a  boy,  deaf, 
dumb  and  blind,  that  he  fainted  from  the  noxious  exhala¬ 
tions  of  a  grave-yard  he  was  passing,  his  smell  having 
been  rendered  acute  by  the  deprivation  of  other  senses. 

Although  more  than  half  the  people  we  met  were 
dressed  precisely  as  in  Paris  or  New  York,  yet  there  were 
many  curious  costumes.  The  Armenian  priest,  with  his 
long  beard  and  high,  square,  black  cap,  from  which  de¬ 
pended  a  coarse  black  veil,  concealing  his  features;  —  the 
gay-looking  Albanian,  with  his  bright  eye  and  well- 
trimmed  moustache ;  and  stranger  than  all,  the  Turkish 
women,  shuffling  along  in  slippers,  or  tottering  in  high 
wooden  clogs,  —  dressed  in  bright-coloured  ferajes  and 
shrouded  up  to  the  eyes  in  the  ugly  yashmak,  giving  to 
their  sallow  complexions  a  yet  more  ghastly  hue. 

The  yashmak  is  wrapped  round  the  head  and  brow, 


ENVIRONS  OF  CONSTANTINOPLE.  99 

brought  over  so  as  to  cover  the  face  down  to  the  eye¬ 
brows,  and  again  across  over  the  bridge  of  the  nose,  giv¬ 
ing  a  disagreeable  prominence  to  that  feature.  Ladies  of 
high  rank  wear  the  yashmak  so  thin,  as  scarcely  to  con¬ 
ceal  the  face  more  than  the  finest  veil  worn  by  our  ladies ; 
but  in  general  it  is  of  a  close  texture  and  of  a  dead  white, 
that  reminds  one  of  cerements  and  the  grave. 

The  feraje  is  a  narrow-skirted  cloak  of  silk  or  woollen, 
and  either  purple  or  a  light  fancy  colour,  entirely  cover¬ 
ing  the  fair  incognita,  saving  a  pair  of  bright  yellow 
morocco  boots,  coming  loosely  a  few  inches  above  the 
ancles,  not  unfrequently  exhibiting  streaks  of  alabaster 
skin  above  them  as  they  carefully  pick  their  way  along 
the  muddy  streets. 

Emerging  from  filthy  lanes,  we  came  out  upon  a  broad 
avenue  leading  into  the  country.  On  one  side  was  a 
handsome  range  of  barracks ;  on  the  other  the  parade- 
ground.  Among  the  city  offals  beyond,  more  than  a  hun¬ 
dred  dogs  lay  crunching.  A  regiment  of  soldiers  was 
being  drilled  in  the  trenches,  actually  delving  and  shovel¬ 
ling  with  pick  and  spade  for  exercise.  Up  and  down  the 
promenade  might  be  seen  caracoling  the  handsome  steed 
of  a  Frank  or  Greek  merchant  of  Pera.  Still  further  on 
was  the  Armenian  burying-ground,  resembling  a  tesselated 
pavement  from  the  number  of  tombstones  or  tablets.  A 
grave-yard  is  here  a  familiar  thing,  and  their  general 
condition  fully  confirms  the  copper-plate  maxim,  66  F ami- 
liarity  breeds  contempt.”  In  this  one  there  were  no 
cypresses,  that  tree  being  consecrated  only  to  the  faithful. 

About  a  mile  on  this  road  was  a  large,  rural-looking 
cafe,  with  a  band  of  music.  Round  about,  a  great  many 
Franks  of  both  sexes  were  seated,  enjoying  pipes  and 
sherbet.  Although  February,  they  were  in  the  open  air. 
It  was  like  our  Hoboken  in  a  more  genial  season. 

Monday.  Caiqued  up  the  Bosporus,  a  short  distance 


100 


CEMETERY  OF  SCUTARI. 


beyond  tbe  mosque  of  Victory,  to  Barbarossa’s  tomb,  of 
which  Mr.  Dale  took  a  sketch.  It  is  on  the  water’s  edge, 
overgrown  with  moss,  and  has  a  large  fig-tree  beside  it. 
Within  the  tomb  is  a  small  mosque,  with  the  same  word, 
Wao  (Jehovah),  inscribed  as  on  the  outside.  The  court 
was  much  neglected,  and  in  the  rear  of  the  tomb  were 
some  filthy  habitations.  An  old  man  told  us  that  there 
was  a  great  person  buried  beneath, — he  knew  not  exactly 
whom.  Such  is  fame !  This  tomb  commemorates  the 
ablest  sea-captain  of  his  age, 66  Chiareddin,”  who  succeeded 
his  brother,  the  celebrated  corsair,  Barbarossa  of  Algiers. 
He  was  the  great  rival  of  Doria,  and  the  terror  of  the 
Christian  world.  We  then  pulled  over  to  Scutari,  and 
saw  its  vast  cemetery,  shrouded  in  cypresses,  and  densely 
paved  with  grave-stones.  It  is  miles  in  extent,  and  in 
all  that  space  there  does  not  seem  room  for  an  additional 
tenant.  In  one  place  there  was  a  beautiful  green  lawn, 
where  several  companies  of  soldiers  were  going  through 
the  exercise.  They  were  dressed  in  blue,  with  the  red 
cap,  and  the  commander’s  magnificent  charger  stood  by. 
A  group  of  female  spectators  seated  on  a  bank,  in  their 
white  yashmaks  and  gay-coloured  ferajes,  gave  additional 
life  to  the  scene,  the  whole  relieved  by  a  back-ground  of 
the  melancholy  cypress.  The  drum  and  fife  sounded  dis¬ 
cordant  in  these  gloomy  shades. 

Tuesday,  Feb.  29.  Visited  the  same  convent  which  we 
had  seen  the  Sultan  enter,  to  witness  an  exhibition  of 
dancing  dervishes.  Casting  off  our  overshoes,  and  passing 
through  the  door,  beside  which  sentries  were  stationed, 
we  took  our  places  within  a  railing,  which  ran  around  the 
circular  floor  of  the  mosque.  There  was  a  similar  gallery 
above.  Some  thirty  dirty-looking  dervishes,  in  faded 
brown  and  green  cloaks,  with  white  felt  conical  hats 
upon  their  heads,  were  prostrate  around  the  circle,  while 
the  Imaum,  the  same  who  had  preceded  the  Sultan, 


DANCING  DERVISHES.  101 

clianted  a  prayer  before  the  mihrab  on  the  eastern  side. 
There  was  music  from  the  gallery,  plaintive,  yet  barba¬ 
rous,  mingled  with  the  occasional  tap  of  a  drum. 

After  repeated  prostrations,  at  a  signal  the  Imaum  led 
the  way,  in  a  slow  march,  round  the  apartment.  As 
each  one  passed  the  mihrab,  he  bowed  three  times,  grace¬ 
fully,  without  stopping,  or  turning  his  back  towards  the 
holy  place.  After  marching  round  three  times,  making 
the  same  reverence,  they  halted  with  their  faces  inwards, 
and  the  Imaum  resumed  his  seat  upon  his  rug  before  the 
mihrab.  The  others,  all  barefooted,  crossing  their  feet 
one  after  the  other,  in  slow  succession,  began  to  twirl 
around,  keeping  admirable  time  to  the  music ;  and  when 
all  in  motion,  looked  like  so  many  teetotums  spinning. 
The  word  spinning  conveys  a  better  idea  than  turning; 
for  they  seemed  to  move  about  without  the  slightest  effort, 
and  their  flowing  garments,  flying  out  in  extended  circles 
below,  gave  the  movement  a  most  graceful  appearance. 
As  the  music  became  louder  and  faster,  they  spun  round 
with  increasing  rapidity,  until  the  eye  became  dizzy  with 
looking  upon  them.  At  a  tap  of  the  drum,  they  stopped 
simultaneously,  with  no  perspiration  upon  their  forehead, 
and  neither  frenzy  nor  fatigue  expressed  in  the  eye. 
They  were  of  all  ages,  from  the  old  Imaum,  with  the 
benevolent  features,  to  a  boy  of  sixteen,  whose  melan¬ 
choly  face  excited  interest.  Indeed,  they  all  had  an  air 
of  sadness  and  profound  resignation :  nothing  ferocious, 
nothing  sinister,  nothing  fanatical.  Renewing  the  march, 
and  repeating  the  prostrations,  the  exercises  continued 
about  an  hour,  and  concluded  as  they  began.  The 
audience  either  stood  erect,  or  sat  upon  the  floor,  and 
preserved  deep  silence.  The  whole  affair  did  not  strike 
us  in  the  ridiculous  light  we  had  anticipated.  Indeed, 
some  of  the  customs  of  Christianity  are  equally  absurd. 
The  religious  sentiment  is  the  same  all  over  the  world, 
9  * 


102 


NECESSITY  OF  RELIGION. 


and  must  find  expression.  Humanity  rejoices,  when  such 
expression,  harmless  in  itself,  as  in  the  present  instance, 
neither  assails  the  opinions  nor  the  rights  of  others. 
Such  is  the  necessity  of  religion  for  the  support  of  all 
human  institutions,  that  any  form  of  worship,  however 
false  and  corrupt,  is  preferable  to  the  atrocious  enormities 
which  follow  in  the  train  of  absolute  impiety. 

The  paganism  of  Rome,  with  all  its  monstrous  errors 
and  superstitions,  even  to  the  human  sacrifice,  with  the 
faint  shadow  of  morality  which  it  inculcated,  formed  the 
cement  and  support  of  the  political  fabric  :  and  the  philo¬ 
sophy  of  Epicurus  and  his  followers,  by  denying  the 
superintendence  of  a  Supreme  Being,  struck  at  the  root 
of  all  social  and  political  morality,  thus  undermining  the 
ancient  institutions  of  the  government,  and  paving  the 
way  for  an  iron  and  blood-thirsty  despotism. 

The  gross  fables  and  puerile  mythology  with  which 
mankind  had  been  so  long  deluded  could  not  resist  the 
assaults  of  sensual  infidelity.  The  last  was  soon  enabled 
to  dissipate  the  shadows  that  had  so  long  enveloped  the 
human  intellect,  and  to  burst  the  bonds  of  a  superstition, 
whose  head  was  hidden  in  the  clouds,  and  whose  foot  was 
on  the  neck  of  nations. 

But,  instead  of  inculcating  a  purer  system  of  morals  for 
that  which  had  been  abolished,  and  erecting  an  altar  to 
Truth  amid  the  broken  shrines  of  the  divinities  it  had 
dethroned,  in  the  pride  of  its  heart,  sensual  philosophy 
exalted  its  own  form  for  the  adoration  of  mankind,  and 
by  removing  all  the  sanctions  of  religion  —  by  corrupting 
the  motives  and  inducements  to  virtue  —  by  stifling  all 
the  aspirations  of  the  heart,  yearning  and  restlessly  striv¬ 
ing  for  a  higher  and  purer  existence  —  it  unbridled  the 
wildest  excesses  of  passion ;  it  recalled  the  divine  principle 
from  its  heavenward  flight,  and  bade  it  seek  in  pandering 
to  the  grossest  sensuality  the  proper  end  and  object  of  its 


VISITING. 


103 


being.  The  result  was  inevitable.  Crime  on  a  gigantic 
scale  ensued.  Rome  grew  drunk  with  blood.  Men  looked 
with  horror  upon  the  present,  and  to  the  future  with 
despair.  One  universal  night  of  gloom  brooded  over  her 
empire,  and  it  seemed  as  if  the  impious  dogma  of  the 
philosopher  had  been  realized,  and  that  the  Deity  had 
abandoned  man  to  his  fate.  The  religious  sentiment  of 
Turkey,  misled  and  faint  as  it  is,  is  the  best  protection  it 
possesses  against  such  debaucheries  as  the  Saturnalia  of 
Rome,  or  the  utter  debasements  of  the  Parisian  worship 
of  the  Goddess  of  Reason. 

March  1.  Impatient  about  the  firman,  Mr.  Carr  ad¬ 
dressed  a  note  to  the  minister  of  foreign  affairs  upon  the 
subject.  In  reply,  the  latter  gave  the  assurance  that 
there  would  be  no  difficulty,  but  that  on  the  contrary  the 
Sultan  was  anxious  to  promote  our  views. 

March  2.  Went  again  to  St.  Stefano,  the  residence  of 
our  hospitable  minister.  In  the  afternoon  there  were  a 
number  of  revellers  assembled  on  the  village  green,  danc¬ 
ing  in  a  circle  round  a  shepherd  from  Bulgaria,  in  a  sheep¬ 
skin  coat,  wool  inside,  blowing  himself  red  in  the  face  on 
a  bagpipe,  —  a  veritable  bagpipe,  —  the  people  dancing  as 
their  ancestors  did  two  thousand  years  ago. 

Spent  the  evening  at  Dr.  Davis’s,  with  Osman  Pasha,  a 
German,  holding  an  office  in  the  Turkish  army,  just  re¬ 
turned  from  Kurdistan,  where  he  had  distinguished  him¬ 
self  in  quelling  a  rebellion.  There  were  also  Ohannis 
Didian,  the  Sultan’s  man  of  business,  Bocas  Aga,  the  rich 
man  of  the  village,  his  nephew,  the  Barout  ji  Bashi  (chief 
of  powder-works),  and  several  younger  Armenians.  The 
next  evening  we  spent  between  Didian’s  and  the  Barout 
ji  Bashi;  the  latter  has  an  immense  house  with  ragged 
retainers  lounging  about  the  court  and  lower  rooms.  We 
had  pipes,  coffee,  sherbet,  and  sweetmeats  —  the  latter 
presented  by  a  daughter  of  fourteen,  followed  by  a  very 


104 


THE  FIRMAN. 


pretty  daughter-in-law,  with  the  coffee.  The  master  of 
the  house  hospitable  and  fussy, — the  mistress  and  daugh¬ 
ters  gorgeously,  but  badly  dressed.  When  we  had  par¬ 
taken  of  refreshments,  exeunt  the  beautiful  visions,  with 
the  skirts  of  their  dresses  tucked  in  their  pockets.  The 
Armenians  are  the  great  business  men  of  the  nation,  and 
are  believed  to  be  less  cunning  and  more  faithful  than 
the  Greeks. 

Tuesday,  March  6.  Received  the  long-expected  firman 
from  the  Grand  Vizier.  It  was  addressed  to  the  Pashas 
of  Saida  and  Jerusalem,  the  two  highest  dignitaries  in 
Syria.  It  was  briefly  couched.  The  following  is  a  literal 
translation : 

“  Governors  of  Saida  and  Jerusalem  !  —  Captain  Lynch, 
of  the  American  navy,  being  desirous  of  examining  the 
Dead  Sea  (Bahr  Lut),  his  legation  has  asked  for  him, 
from  all  our  authorities,  all  due  aid  and  assistance. 

“  You  will,  therefore,  on  the  receipt  of  this  present 
order,  give  him  and  his  companions,  seventeen  in  number, 
all  due  aid  and  co-operation  in  his  explorations. 

66  Protect,  therefore,  and  treat  him  with  a  regard  due 
to  the  friendship  existing  between  the  American  Govern¬ 
ment  and  that  of  the  Sublime  Porte. 

(Signed)  “  Mustafa  Reschid  Pasha, 

“  Grand  Vizier . 

u  Mustafa  Pasha,  Governor  of  Saida. 

“Zarif  Pasha,  Governor  of  Jerusalem. 

u  Stambohl,  March  7,  1848.” 

In  half  an  hour  after  the  receipt  of  the  firman,  I  was 
on  board  the  French  steamer  “  Hellespont,”  the  rest  of 
the  party  having  preceded  me. 

For  the  last  time,  I  gazed  up  the  beautiful  Bosporus, 
its  rippling  waters  and  its  bold  headlands  basking  in  the 
rays  of  the  setting  sun.  This  stream  teems  with  classic 


RETURN  TO  SMYRNA. 


105 

and  historical  associations,  from  the  time  when  Europa 
was  borne  across  in  the  arms  of  Jove,  to  the  navigation 
of  the  Argonauts,  and  the  passage  of  the  Persians  under 
Darius.  The  word  “  Bosporus”  literally  means  “  Cattle 
Ford,”  a  name  now  wholly  inapplicable,  for  it  is  deep 
enough  to  float  a  heavy  line-of-battle  ship.  The  origin 
of  this  strait,  in  connection  with  that  of  the  Dardanelles, 
has  been  the  subject  of  much  discussion.  It  was  the 
opinion  of  the  ancients,  that  the  Euxine  became  so 
swollen  by  the  Danube,  the  Dnieper,  the  Dniester,  and 
other  rivers,  that  it  burst  through  to  the  Mediterranean. 
But  Count  Andreossy,  French  Ambassador  to  the  Porte 
in  1812,  discovered  indubitable  evidence  of  a  great  vol¬ 
canic  cataclism  at  the  mouth  of  the  straits.  He  inferred, 
that  this  opening  of  the  escarped  rocks  on  the  Black  Sea 
once  made,  the  waters  of  the  Euxine  must  have  rushed 
into  the  Propontis,  or  sea  of  Marmara,  enlarged  the  Hel¬ 
lespont  to  its  present  width,  and  thence,  expanding  over 
an  immense  plain,  have  left  only  the  slopes  and  summits 
of  the  mountains  visible  (the  present  Grecian  Archipe¬ 
lago),  and  united  with  the  Mediterranean.  The  parallel 
direction  of  the  Grecian  islands,  Candia  excepted,  con¬ 
firms  this  theory ;  and  the  longitudinal  position  of  that 
island  is  accounted  for,  by  the  supposition  that  the  waters 
of  the  flood  were  deflected  by  the  high  mountains  of  Syria. 

Spent  the  night  on  the  sea  of  Marmara,  Passed  the 
next  day  in  sweeping  down  the  Hellespont,  and  skirting 
the  Phrygian  coast,  and,  on  the  morning  of  the  9  th, 
rejoined  the  66  Supply.” 

Friday,  March  10.  Sailed  from  Smyrna  for  the  coast  of 
Syria,  and  passed  through  the  straits  of  Spalmatori  and 
Scio,  and  by  the  island  of  Nicaria  (ancient  Icaria),  named 
after  him,  whose  waxen  pinions  so  signally  failed  him. 

Monday,  March  13.  The  wind  hauled  to  the  southward 
and  eastward,  and  freshened  to  a  gale — a  genuine  levanter. 


106 


SCIO. 


P.  M.  The  gale  increasing,  we  were  compelled  to  bear  up, 
and  run  for  a  lee.  Scudded  through  the  dark  night,  and 
in  the  morning  anchored  in  the  bay  of  Scio. 

In  the  afternoon,  the  weather  partially  moderating, 
visited  the  shore.  From  the  ship,  we  had  enjoyed  a 
view  of  rich  orchards  and  green  fields ;  but,  on  landing, 
we  found  ourselves  amid  a  scene  of  desolation — an  entire 
city,  with  all  its  environs,  laid  in  ruins  by  the  ruthless 
Turks  during  that  darkest  hour  of  Turkish  history,  the 
massacre  of  Scio.  Invited  into  one  of  the  dwellings,  we 
tasted  some  Scian  wine,  and  at  the  same  time  caught  a 
glimpse  of  a  pair  of  lustrous  eyes  peering  at  us  from 
above  : — the  wine  was  light  in  colour,  and,  to  our  tastes, 
unpalatable ;  but  the  eyes  were  magnificent.  The  Greek 
costume  differs  little  from  the  Turkish,  in  the  capital. 
The  tarbouch  is  higher;  the  shakshen  (petticoat-trowsers) 
shorter,  with  leggings  beneath.  The  Greeks  are  more 
vivacious  than  the  Turks,  but  much  less  respected  in  the 
Levant. 

We  rode  into  the  country.  Our  steeds  were  donkeys — 
our  saddles  made  of  wood  !  It  was  literally  riding  on  a 
rail.  What  a  contrast  between  the  luxuriant  vegetation, 
the  bounty  of  nature,  and  the  devastation  of  man !  Nearly 
every  house  was  unroofed  and  in  ruins  —  not  one  in  ten 
inhabited,  although  surrounded  with  thick  groves  of 
orange  trees  loaded  with  the  weight  of  their  golden  fruit. 

March  14.  Weighed  anchor  and  again  endeavoured  to 
pass  through  the  Icarian  Sea ;  but  encountering  another 
gale,  were  compelled  to  bear  away  for  Scala  Nouva,  on 
the  coast  of  Asia  Minor,  not  far  from  the  ruins  of  ancient 
Ephesus.  While  weather-bound,  we  availed  ourselves  of 
the  opportunity  to  visit  the  ruins  about  ten  miles  distant. 
There  are  no  trees  and  very  few  bushes  on  the  face  of 
this  old  country,  but  the  mountain  slopes  and  the  valleys 
are  enamelled  with  thousands  of  beautiful  flowers,  among 


RUINS  OF  EPHESUS. 


107 


which  the  most  conspicuous,  from  its  brilliant  colour,  is 
the  purple  anemone  (anemone  coronaria),  one  of  the  lav¬ 
enders,  and  known  to  the  ancient  Greeks. 

Winding  around  the  precipitous  crest  of  a  mountain,  we 
saw  the  river  66  Cayster”  (modern  66  Meander”)  flowing 
through  an  alluvial  plain  to  the  sea,  and  on  its  banks  the 
black  tents  of  herdsmen,  with  their  flocks  of  goats  around 
them.  At  length  turning  another  point  we  descried  the 
walls  of  Ephesus,  which,  according  to  Strabo,  was  the 
principal  mart  of  Asia  this  side  of  Mount  Taurus. 

Climbing  over  fragments  of  marble  and  stone  which  lay 
confusedly  upon  the  hill-side,  we  first  came  to  a  ruined 
building  on  a  high  elevation  to  the  left,  called  “  St.  Paul’s 
prison  crossing  a  shoulder  of  the  mountain,  we  beheld 
the  ruins  of  the  city,  lying  dispersedly  in  the  amphi¬ 
theatre  of  hills  below.  It  was  a  sad  yet  interesting  sight. 
First  was  the  theatre,  where  the  town  clerk  quelled  the 
tumult  of  the  silversmiths.  It  consists  of  piles  of  stones, 
of  the  Grecian  era,  with  arches  of  brick,  evidently  Roman. 
This  theatre  is  almost  wholly  destroyed,  and  there  are 
no  seats  visible.  The  inscriptions  over  the  gateway  and 
triumphal  arches  are  almost  entirely  defaced.  On  the 
east  side  is  a  ruined  aqueduct,  with  reversed  inscriptions 
of  Marcus  Aurelius.  Amid  the  tall  grass  are  shafts  of 
porphyry  columns,  one  fragment  bright  and  beautifully 
polished. 

Thence  passing  some  Roman  arches  on  the  left,  said  to 
have  been  granaries,  and  crossing  a  cultivated  field,  we 
reached  the  site  of  the  great  temple  of  Diana,  covered 
with  fragments  of  columns,  pilasters,  entablatures,  &c., 
which  seem  to  have  been  crushed  where  they  stood.  It 
appears  to  have  been  a  Doric  temple ;  some  of  the  columns 
are  fluted  three  and  a  half  inches  deep,  and  they  are 
about  four  feet  in  diameter.  One  of  the  fragments  mea¬ 
sured  twenty-nine  feet,  a  part  of  its  capital  lying  about 


103 


THE  TEMPLE  OF  DIANA. 


ten  feet  distant.  A  corner-stone  of  a  pediment  formed  a 
striking  mass  of  sculpture,  —  the  whole  of  white  marble, 
mellowed  by  time,  and  beautifully  cut,  particularly  an 
exquisite  fragment  of  a  lion’s  head. 

This  temple,  for  its  extent,  architecture,  and  decora¬ 
tion,  was  esteemed  one  of  the  wonders  of  the  world.  It 
was  425  feet  long,  220  broad,  and  was  supported  by  127 
pillars  of  marble,  each  seventy  feet  high.  Twenty-seven 
of  them  were  curiously  wrought,  and  the  rest  exquisitely 
polished.  It  was  planned  by  Ctesiphon,  the  architect, 
and  was  200  years  under  construction.  It  was  seven 
times  destroyed  by  fire,  once  on  the  same  day  that  Socra¬ 
tes  was  poisoned,  the  last  time  by  Erostratus,  on  the 
night  that  Alexander  the  Great  was  born ;  whence  it  was 
said  that  Diana  was  that  night  so  busy  superintending  the 
birth  of  a  hero,  that  she  could  not  protect  her  own  temple. 
It  was  rebuilt  the  last  time  by  female  contribution. 
Alexander  wished  to  erect  it  at  his  own  expense,  but  his 
offer  was  refused  with  the  flattering  remark  that  it  was 
not  seemly  for  one  god  to  contribute  to  the  erection  of  a 
temple  dedicated  to  another. 

This  temple,  the  metropolitan  shrine  of  all  others  de¬ 
dicated  to  Diana,  was  near  the  Ortygian  grove  and  Cen- 
clirian  stream,  where  she  and  Apollo  were  reputed  to 
have  been  born  of  Latona.  It  was  finally  destroyed  by 
the  Goths  in  the  third  century. 

The  amphitheatre  and  the  stadium,  like  the  theatre 
and  the  temple,  present  a  surface  of  marble  fragments, 
glittering  in  the  sun-light.  To  the  north-east  on  the  brow 
of  a  hill,  in  full  view,  is  the  cave  of  the  seven  sleepers, 
with  the  ruins  of  a  chapel  adjoining  it. 

The  seven  sleepers  were  seven  brothers  professing  the 
Christian  faith,  who,  with  their  dog,  were  walled  up  in 
this  cave  by  the  emperor  Decius.  They  are  fabled  to  have 
slept  157  years.  Their  names,  and  that  of  their  dog,  are 


THE  CHURCH  OF  ST.  JOHN. 


109 


engraved  on  the  rings  and  amulets  of  good  Muslims, 
and  are  considered  charms  against  the  perils  of  the  sea. 
They  are  Yemlika,  Moksilina,  Meslina,  Mernoos,  Dober- 
noos,  Shadnoos,  Kastitiyus,  and  their  dog  Kitmir. 

The  rocks  in  this  vicinity  are  mostly  marble  and  coarse 
limestone.  One  part  of  our  road  here  led  through  a  rocky 
chasm  of  micaceous  slate.  The  mountain  precipices 
over  Ephesus  present  the  wildest  forms,  and  rise  seven  or 
eight  hundred  feet  high.  Their  faces  are  perforated  with 
many  quarries,  whence,  doubtless,  was  drawn  the  marble 
for  the  construction  of  the  city. 

The  Turkish  village  of  Ayasalouk,  a  paltry  collection 
of  huts,  constructed  without  taste,  of  the  scattering  frag¬ 
ments  around,  is  the  forlorn  representative  of  the  glories 
of  ancient  Ephesus.  The  relics  of  Gentiles  and  of  Christ¬ 
ians  lie  subverted  and  unknown  among  the  habitations 
of  the  poor  and  ignorant  herdsmen,  just  without  the  ves¬ 
tibule  of  the  great  church  of  St.  John,  the  first  of  the 
seven  churches  of  Asia.  There  is  not  one  Christian  among 
them.  Before  the  Muslim  village  is  the  noble  gateway  of 
the  once  magnificent  church.  Looking  upon  the  crumb¬ 
ling  walls  which  once  echoed  the  eloquence  of  two  apos¬ 
tles,  one  fears  for  the  “  angel  of  Ephesus”  as  he  recollects 
the  awful  message, — 

u  Or  else  I  come  to  thee,  and  will  move  thy  candlestick  out  of  its  place, 
except  thou  do  penance.” 

Over  the  massive  portal  were  originally  fine  basso-relievos, 
now  all  removed  but  one.  From  a  cleft  in  the  wall  a  tree 
shoots  up  and  partly  shades  the  portal  within.  It  is  the 
beautiful  emblem  of  faith,  springing  from  and  surviving 
the  ruins  of  its  earthly  temple. 

Passing  through  the  gateway,  over  columns  of  porphyry 
and  massive  fragments  of  sculptured  marble,  we  came  to 
a  broad  pedestal  near  the  upper  end,  which  must  have 
10 


110 


THE  RIVER  MEANDER. 


been  the  site  of  the  grand  altar.  How  it  moves  the  heart 
to  its  inmost  depths  to  reflect,  that  before  that  high  altar 
have  stood  the  Beloved  Disciple  and  the  Apostle  of  the 
Gentiles !  In  fancy,  one  hears  the  tremulous  tones  of  the 
first,  as  he  repeats  over  and  over  his  favourite  exclama¬ 
tion,  “  My  children,  love  one  another.” 

On  the  southern  slope  of  the  hill,  near  its  base,  is  a 
large  marble  building,  with  a  dome  and  turrets,  over¬ 
grown  with  moss.  It  is  called  the  “  Bishop’s  Palace,” 
and  has  been  converted  into  a  mosque.  The  stones,  with 
inverted  inscriptions,  prove  it  to  be  of  comparatively 
modern  construction. 

We  returned  by  a  different  road,  striking  directly  across 
the  plain,  which  lay  in  front  of  the  ruins  of  the  ancient 
city,  and  covered  a  space  of  three  miles  in  extent. 
Through  this  extensive  plain,  which  is  cultivated  in 
patches,  amid  clusters  of  the  tamarisk  and  much  scatter¬ 
ing  shrubbery,  winds  the  river  Cayster,  which,  from  its 
serpentine  course,  is  called  the  “ Meander”  —  by  the 
Turks,  the  “  Lesser  Mendere.” 

There  can  be  no  question  that  this  alluvial  plain  was 
once  a  noble  bay,  and  on  its  shores  stood  the  city  of 
Ephesus  ;  which,  according  to  Pliny,  has  frequently 
changed  its  name  with  its  condition.  In  the  Trojan 
war,  it  was  called  “Alope;”  then  “Ortygia,”  “Morgas,” 
“ Ephesus;”  and  now,  “Ayasalouk.” 

The  plain  has  doubtless  been  formed  by  the  depositions 
of  the  river  Cayster,  in  its  overflow,  and  the  mountain 
torrents,  in  the  winter  season.  It  seems  improbable  that 
the  city  should  have  been  originally  built  on  a  mountain 
side,  three  miles  from  the  sea,  with  a  morass  between, 
through  which  flowed  a  shallow  and  insignificant  stream. 
The  bay  of  Scala  Nuova  is  annually  lessening  in  depth; 
and  the  inhabitants  maintain  that,  within  the  present  gene¬ 
ration,  the  land  has  materially  encroached  upon  the  sea. 

Saturday,  March  18.  While  the  rest  were  making 


VISITORS  ON  BOARD. 


Ill 


necessary  preparations  for  a  visit  to  the  ruins  yesterday, 
I  called  upon  the  Governor,  who  seated  me  beside  him  on 
the  divan,  and  entertained  me  handsomely  with  pipes, 
sherbet  and  coffee.  This  day  he  returned  the  visit. 
He  was  a  noble-looking  Constantinopolitan,  with  a  fine 
black  beard  and  moustache,  and  was  dressed  in  a  blue 
military  frock-coat,  with  red  tarbouch,  and  a  coloured 
kerchief  wound  around  it  as  a  turban.  He  wore  green 
spectacles,  and  was  followed  by  a  long  suite,  headed  by 
his  pipe-bearer.  Like  most  other  Turks  of  condition 
whom  we  had  seen,  in  consequence  of  taking  but  little 
exercise,  he  was  quite  corpulent,  and  puffed  like  a  por¬ 
poise  in  clambering  over  the  side.  He  evinced  much 
interest  in  our  naval  improvements,  arms,  &c.,  and  was 
exceedingly  gratified  with  the  salute  we  gave  him. 

P.  M.  Some  of  the  Greek  fashionables  came  on  board. 
The  men  were  of  the  soap-lock  order :  the  ladies  were 
dressed  pretty  much  as  our  ladies,  except  that  their 
clothes  did  not  fit  well,  and  nothing  seemed  exactly  in 
good  taste.  There  was  much  brilliancy,  but  little  clean¬ 
liness  ;  —  for  instance,  a  dirty  hand  adorned  by  a  magnifi¬ 
cent  ring,  as  old  as  the  temple,  —  perhaps  the  workman¬ 
ship  of  Demetrius  himself.  We  feasted  them,  and  sent 
them  on  shore  rejoicing,  and  shortly  after  left  the  port. 

The  town  of  Scala  Nuova  (ancient  Neapolis)  contains 
about  10,000  inhabitants,  of  whom  all  are  Turks  or  na¬ 
tives,  except  about  fifty  Greek  and  ten  or  twelve  Arme¬ 
nian  families. 

This  little  place  exports  annually  about  150,000  kilos 
of  wheat,  each  kilo  weighing  sixty  pounds ;  also  a  large 
quantity  of  an  inferior  kind  of  maize,  or  Indian  corn. 
This  vessel  is  the  first  bearing  the  American  flag,  which 
has  ever  entered  the  port.  Why  will  not  some  of  our 
trading-vessels  touch  here  ?  It  would  doubtless  pay  well. 
We  were  assured,  but  we  cannot  believe  it,  that  we  were 
the  first  visitors  from  the  New  World  to  the  ruins*  of 


112 


ISLE  OF  P  ATMOS. 


Ephesus.  The  authorities  here  do  not  seem  to  anticipate 
the  necessity  of  defence.  The  ancient  walls,  with  their 
projecting  turrets,  are  ungarnished  with  artillery. 

We  obtained  here,  besides  Grecian  coins,  two  antique 
marble  heads  of  Diana,  from  the  ruins  of  her  temple,  and 
part  of  an  inscription  from  the  once  magnificent  church 
of  St.  John. 

Sunday,  March  19.  The  wind  was  light,  and  we  ad¬ 
vanced  slowly.  Read  prayers  this  day  in  the  Forni 
passage,  between  Samos  and  Icaria,  in  sight  of  “the 
island  which  is  called  Patmos.”  Samos,  the  birth-place 
of  Pythagoras  and  of  one  of  the  Sibyls,  as  well  as  Chios 
and  Mitylene,  were  visited  by  St.  Paul.  At  night,  ob¬ 
served  the  eclipse  of  the  moon  by  the  chronometer. 

March  20.  All  day  in  sight  of  Patmos,  where  St.  John 
wrote  the  Apocalypse.  How  grateful,  yet  how  awe-in¬ 
spiring,  would  be  a  visit  to  the  cave  where  the  Scribe  of 
the  Almighty  dwelt ! 

Patmos  is  a  small,  rocky  isle,  with  not  a  tree  visible 
upon  it,  like  most  of  the  islands  we  have  seen.  There  is 
little  cultivation,  although  a  considerable  hamlet  is  seen 
clustering  on  the  hill-side,  while  a  castellated  building 
crowns  the  summit.  It  is  said  that  the  inhabitants  are 
supported  almost  entirely  by  the  proceeds  of  the  sponge 
fisheries  along  its  rocky  shores. 

March  21.  The  wind  strong,  but  adverse — freshened  to 
a  gale.  We  were  now  under  the  lee  of  Cos,  where,  as  well 
as  at  Cyprus  and  Tyre,  the  god  Phoebus  was  worshipped. 
This  island  was  also  visited  by  St.  Paul,  on  his  way  to 
Rhodes.  10  P.  M.  A  fair  wind,  and  a  lunar  rainbow ! 
Bore  away  under  full  sail,  leaving  Candia  broad  upon  the 
weather-quarter,  and  the  sandy  coast  of  Asia  Minor  glit¬ 
tering  in  the  moonlight  on  our  lee. 

Candia  (ancient  Crete),  once  called  Macarios  (happy 
island),  lies  across  the  entrance  of  the  Egean  Sea,  and  is 


RHODES  AND  CYPRUS. 


113 


nearly  equidistant  from  Europe,  Asia,  and  Africa.  In 
early  ages,  Saturn,  the  father  of  Jupiter,  reigned  here, 
while  the  latter  was  nursed  secretly  among  the  hills  of 
Ida.  Here,  also,  reigned  Minos  and  Rhadamanthus, 
feigned  by  poets  to  be  the  judges  in  hell.  Here,. too,  is 
the  intricate  labyrinth  made  by  Daedalus.  The  inhabit¬ 
ants  of  this  island  were  accounted  great  liars ;  hence  came 
the  term, “  a  Cretan  lie.”  From  one  of  its  ports,  Falconer’s 
“  Britannia”  went  forth,  breasting  the  lofty  surge,  which 
was  so  soon  to  dash  her  in  fragments  upon  the  rocky 
shore. 

We  have  passed  through  the  scenes  of  the  “  Shipwreck,” 
— the  only  nautical  epic  that  has  ever  been  published,  for 
the  Voyage  of  Argonauts  is  unworthy  of  the  name. 

With  a  flowing  sheet,  we  sailed  past  Rhodes  and 
Cyprus,  —  the  first  famed  for  its  brazen  colossus,  which 
no  longer  spans  the  entrance  of  the  harbour.  It  was  an 
ancient  seat  of  learning,  and  Cicero  and  Caesar  were 
among  the  pupils  of  its  school.  In  more  modern  times, 
under  the  Knights  of  St.  J ohn,  it  was  for  a  long  time  the 
bulwark  of  Christendom  against  the  Saracen. 

Cyprus,  the  “Chittim”  of  the  Old  Testament,  had  in  its 
Paphian  Grove,  a  bower  erected  to  the  Goddess  of  Beauty. 
It  was  captured  by  the  lion-hearted  Richard,  on  his  way 
to  the  Holy  Land ;  and  in  yet  more  recent  times,  the  eccen¬ 
tric  Lady  Hester  Stanhope  was  wrecked  upon  its  shores. 
Jews  are  not  permitted  to  reside  on  this  island. 

Saturday,  March  25.  This  morning  the  mountains  of 
Lebanon  are  before  us  —  their  shadows  resting  upon  the 
sea,  while  their  summits  are  wreathed  in  a  mist,  made 
refulgent  by  the  rays  of  the  yet  invisible  sun.  Brilliant 
as  the  bow  of  promise,  the  many-coloured  mist  rests  like 
a  gemmed  tiara  upon  the  brow  of  the  lofty  mountain. 
Like  the  glorious  sunset  on  the  eve  of  our  departure,  I 
hail  this  as  an  auspicious  omen. 

10  *  H 


CHAPTER  VI. 


BEIRUT  TO  DEPARTURE  FROM  ST.  JEAN  D’ACRE 

March  25.  At  8  A.  M.  anchored  off  the  town  of  Beirut, 
and  went  on  shore  to  call  upon  the  Pasha,  who  is  also  a 
Mushir,  which,  next  to  the  sovereignty,  is  the  highest 
rank  in  the  Ottoman  empire. 

Entering  the  palace,  and  passing  through  a  suite  of 
rooms  crowded  with  attendants,  we  found  the  Pasha,  in 
the  most  remote  one,  seated  a  la  Turque  upon  an  elevated 
divan.  Introduced  by  our  consul,  I  was  graciously  re¬ 
ceived,  and  the  usual  preliminaries  of  sherbet,  pipes  and 
coffee  having  been  discussed,  I  presented  the  imperial 
firman.  With  an  air  of  deep  respect  he  carefully  read  it, 
and  professed  his  readiness  to  obey  it. 

In  making  out  the  instructions  to  his  varions  subordi¬ 
nates  in  our  contemplated  route,  a  singular  difficulty  was 
presented.  He  was  uncertain  whether  the  eastern  side 
of  the  Jordan  was  included  in  his  jurisdiction  or  in  that 
of  the  Pasha  of  Damascus,  with  whom,  although  of  an  in¬ 
ferior  rank,  he  was  unwilling  to  interfere.  To  my  sug¬ 
gestion  of  sending  a  messenger  to  Damascus,  he  with  some 
hesitation  confessed  that  he  would  not  like  by  such  a 
step  to  betray  ignorance  of  the  extent  of  his  jurisdiction. 
We  consulted  a  chart,  but  as  the  limits  of  his  paslialic 
were  not  geographically  defined,  it  threw  no  light  upon 
the  subject.  We  at  length  ascertained  that  jurisdiction 
vested  in  the  Pasha  of  Damascus,  and  to  that  functionary 
a  messenger  was  forthwith  despatched. 

As  this  circumstance  reflects  discreditably  upon  the 

(134) 


PREPARATIONS. 


115 


Pasha,  I  would  omit  it,  although  a  feature  m  the  govern¬ 
ment  and  condition  of  the  country,  but  that  he  was  soon 
after  recalled,  and  there  is  no  possibility  of  his  ever  seeing 
this  recital,  or  of  his  interests  being  affected  by  it.  He 
evinced  during  the  interview  much  thirst  for  information, 
and  like  his  master,  the  Sultan,  expressed  a  wish  to  know 
the  results  of  our  labours. 

The  Rev.  Eli  Smith,  of  the  American  Presbyterian 
mission,  although  in  ill  health,  exerted  himself  in  our 
behalf,  and  to  him  we  were  indebted  for  securing  the  ser¬ 
vices  of  an  intelligent  young  Syrian,  named  Ameuny,  for 
our  dragoman  or  interpreter.  I  also  engaged  an  Arab, 
named  Mustafa,  as  cook.  The  other  gentlemen  of  the 
mission  rendered  us  all  the  assistance  in  their  power,  and 
cheered  us  with  cordial  good  wishes  for  our  success. 

We  received  here  two  pocket  chronometers  forwarded 
by  Dent  from  London  ;  and  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  en¬ 
gaging  Dr.  Anderson,  of  New  York,  as  physician  and 
geologist,  while  we  should  be  descending  the  J ordan,  and 
exploring  the  Dead  Sea. 

An  English  party  having  been  recently  attacked,  in 
attempting  to  descend  the  Jordan,  the  tribes  might  yet 
be  in  an  exasperated  state,  and  in  the  event  of  gun-shot 
wounds,  surgical  aid  would  be  indispensable.  Lieutenant 
Molyneux,  R.  N.,  the  commander  of  that  party,  having, 
like  Costigan,  the  only  man  who  preceded  him,  perished 
of  fever  caught  on  the  Dead  Sea,  I  felt  it  a  duty  to  secure 
the  valuable  services  of  Dr.  Anderson.  I  directed  him  to 
proceed  across  the  country,  to  make  a  geological  recon- 
noissance,  and  to  join  us,  if  he  could,  on  the  route  from 
Acre  to  Tiberias. 

For  the  purpose  of  making  some  necessary  pecuniary 
arrangements,  I  was  introduced  by  Mr.  Smith  to  a  wealthy 
Syrian  merchant.  When  informed  of  the  nature  of  our 
undertaking,  he  first  said,  “  It  is  madness but  the  mo- 


116 


MATTERS  OF  COSTUME. 


ment  after,  forgetful  of  the  comforts  and  luxuries  around 
him,  he  turned  to  me,  and,  with  his  soul  beaming  in  his 
eyes,  exclaimed,  “  Oh !  how  I  envy  you !” 

Our  consul,  Mr.  Chasseaud,  was  indefatigable  in  his 
efforts  to  facilitate  us ;  and  notwithstanding  the  weather 
was  tempestuous,  with  incessant  rain,  we  were  ready  at 
the  expiration  of  the  first  twenty-four  hours.  H.  B.  M. 
Consul-General,  Colonel  Kose,  was  kind  and  obliging. 
Besides  partaking  of  his  hospitality,  I  was  indebted  to 
him  for  a  letter  to  Mr.  Finn,  H.  B.  M.  Consul  at  Jeru¬ 
salem,  —  rendered  the  more  acceptable,  as  our  country 
has  no  representative  there. 

Beirut  is  a  Franco-Syrian  town,  with  a  proportionate 
number  of  Turkish  officials.  The  customs  of  the  east 
and  of  the  west  are  singularly  blended,  but  the  races 
remain  distinct,  separated  by  difference  of  complexion 
and  of  faith.  The  most  striking  peculiarity  of  dress  we 
saw,  was  the  tantur,  or  horn,  worn  mostly  by  the  wives 
of  the  mountaineers.  It  was  from  fourteen  inches  to 
two  feet  long,  three  to  four  inches  wide  at  the  base,  and 
about  one  inch  at  the  top.  It  is  made  of  tin,  silver,  or 
gold,  according  to  the  circumstances  of  the  wearer,  and 
is  sometimes  studded  with  precious  stones.  From  the 
summit  depends  a  veil,  which  falls  upon  the  breast,  and. 
at  will,  conceals  the  features.  It  is  frequently  drawn 
aside,  sufficiently  to  leave  one  eye  exposed, — in  that 
respect  resembling  the  mode  of  the  women  of  Lima.  It 
is  worn  only  by  married  women,  or  by  unmarried  ones 
of  the  highest  rank,  and  once  assumed,  is  borne  for  lift4. 
Although  the  temple  may  throb,  and  the  brain  be  racked 
with  fever,  it  cannot  be  laid  aside.  Put  on  with  the 
bridal-robe,  it  does  not  give  place  to  the  shroud.  The 
custom  of  wearing  it,  is  derived  from  the  Druses,  but  it 
is  also  worn  by  the  Maronites.  Its  origin  is  unknown ; 
it  is  supposed  to  have  some  reference  to  the  words, 


MOUNT  CARMEL.  117 

“the  horns  of  the  righteous  shall  he  exalted,”  and  other 
like  passages  of  Scripture. 

The  illimitable  sea  was  upon  one  side,  the  lofty  barrier 
of  the  Lebanon  on  the  other,  with  a  highly-cultivated 
plain,  all  verdure  and  bloom,  between  them.  But  so  in¬ 
dispensably  necessary  did  I  deem  it  to  reach  the  Jordan 
before  the  existing  flood  subsided,  that  no  time  was 
allowed  to  note  the  beauties  of  the  surrounding  scene. 
It  seemed  better  to  descend  the  river  with  a  rush,  than 
slowly  drag  the  boats  over  mud-flats,  sand-banks,  and 
ridges  of  rock. 

Monday,  March  27.  At  night,  got  under  way;  but  the 
wind  failing,  and  a  heavy  sea  tumbling  in,  we  were  com¬ 
pelled  to  anchor  again. 

Tuesday,  28.  A.  M.  The  wind  light,  and  adverse, — em¬ 
ployed  in  packing  instruments,  and  making  all  ready  for 
disembarkation.  3  P.  M.  Sailed  with  a  fine  breeze  from 
the  north-west.  At  midnight,  having  passed  Sidon  and 
Tyre,  heaved  to  off  the  White  Cape  (“  Album  Promonto¬ 
ri  um”  of  the  Romans,  and  “  Ras-el-Abaid”  of  the  Syrians), 
the  north  extreme  of  the  bay  of  Acre. 

At  daylight  filled  away,  and  the  wind  blowing  fresh, 
sailed  past  the  town  of  St.  J ean  d’ Acre,  its  battlements 
frowning  in  the  distance,  and  anchored  under  mount  Car¬ 
mel,  before  the  walled  village  of  Haifa. 

With  great  difficulty  I  landed  through  the  surf,  in 
company  with  our  dragoman  and  our  vice-consul  at  Acre, 
who  had  come  with  us  from  Beirut.  We  were  in  danger 
of  perishing,  and  were  only  rescued  by  the  Arab  fishermen 
who  came  to  our  assistance.  They  are  bold  and  dexterous 
swimmers,  as  much  at  home  in  the  water  as  the  natives 
of  the  Sandwich  Islands. 

The  increasing  surf  preventing  further  communication 
with  the  ship,  we  proceeded  first  to  Haifa  and  thence  to 
the  convent  for  a  bed,  for  in  the  miserable  village  there 


118 


EXTENSIVE  VIEW. 


was  no  accommodation.  The  first  thing  in  Syria  which 
strikes  a  visitor  from  the  western  world,  is  the  absence 
of  forest  trees.  Except  the  orchards,  the  mountains  and 
the  plains  are  unrelieved  surfaces  of  dull  brown  and 
green.  No  towering  oak,  no  symmetrical  poplar,  relieves 
the  monotony  of  the  scene.  The  sun  must  surely  be  the 
monarch  of  this  clime,  for,  outside  the  flat,  mud-roofed, 
cube-like  houses,  there  is  no  shelter  from  his  fiery  beams. 

The  road  to  the  convent  led  for  a  short  distance  through 
an  extensive  olive  orchard,  and  thence  up  the  mountain 
by  a  gentle  ascent.  On  the  plain,  and  the  mountain  side, 
were  flowers  and  fragrant  shrubs, — the  asphodel,  the  phea¬ 
sant’s  eye,  and  Egyptian  clover.  The  convent  stands  on 
the  bold  brow  of  a  promontory,  the  terminus  of  a  moun¬ 
tain  range  1200  feet  high,  bounding  the  vale  of  Esdraelon 
on  the  south-west.  The  view  from  the  summit  is  fine. 
Beneath  is  a  narrow  but  luxuriant  plain,  upon  which,  it 
is  said,  once  stood  the  city  of  Porphyraea.*  Sweeping 
inland,  north  and  south,  from  Apollonia  in  one  direction 
to  Tyre  in  another,  with  Acre  in  the  near  perspective, 
are  the  hills  of  Samaria  and  Galilee,  enclosing  the  lovely 
vale  of  Sharon  and  the  great  battle-field  of  nations,  the 
valley  of  Esdraelon ;  while  to  the  west  lies  the  broad  ex¬ 
panse  of  the  Mediterranean.  But  the  eye  of  faith  viewed 
a  more  interesting  and  impressive  sight ;  for  it  was  here, 
perhaps  upon  the  very  spot  where  I  stood,  that  Elijah  built 
his  altar,  and  “the  fire  of  the  Lord  fell  and  consumed  the 
burnt  sacrifice,  and  the  wood  and  the  stones  and  the  dust, 
and  licked  up  the  water  that  was  in  the  trench.” 

We  were  cordially  received  by  the  monks,  “Bon  frere 
Charles”  in  especial,  who,  as  it  was  Lent,  regaled  us  with 
vegetable  soup  and  fish. 

Within  the  convent  is  the  celebrated  grotto  of  Elias, 


*  The  true  site  of  Porphyraea  is  near  Sidon. 


TENTS  PITCHED. 


119 


with  a  beautiful  marble  rotundo  in  front,  and  a  chaste 
and  richly  decorated  chapel  above  it.  In  front  of  the 
main  building  is  a  tent-shaped  mausoleum,  erected  over 
2000  Frenchmen,  who,  sick,  and  unable  to  defend  them¬ 
selves,  were  massacred  by  the  Turks.  The  convent  was 
then  used  as  a  hospital.  The  word  “ Carmel”  means 
garden.  Mount  Carmel  has  been  visited  by  Titus,  St. 
Louis,  and  Napoleon. 

We  procured  here  some  of  the  flint  nodules  resembling 
chalcedony,  in  the  form  of  fruit,  —  petrified,  it  is  said,  by 
a  curse  of  the  prophet,  who  was  refused  some  of  it  by  the 
proprietor  when  he  was  faint  and  weary.  They  are 
nothing  more  than  round  hollow  pieces  of  flint,  with 
smooth  and  coloured  protuberances  within. 

Friday,  March  31.  Wind  changed  off  shore  with  a 
smooth  sea.  Sent  to  Acre  for  horses,  and  hoisted  out  the 
two  “  Fannies”  and  landed  them  with  our  effects.  Pitched 
our  tents  for  the  first  time,  upon  the  beach,  without  the 
walls  of  Haifa.  A  grave-yard  behind,  an  old  grotto-look¬ 
ing  well  (then  dry)  on  one  side,  and  a  carob  tree  on  the 
other.  This  tree  very  much  resembles  an  apple  tree,  and 
bears  an  edible  bean,  somewhat  like  the  catalpa,  which, 
in  times  of  scarcity,  is  eaten  by  the  poor.  It  is  supposed 
to  be  the  “  husk”  spoken  of  in  the  beautiful  and  touching 
parable  of  the  prodigal  son.  Indeed,  I  have  heard  orien¬ 
tal  scholars  maintain  that  “  husk”  is  not  the  proper  trans¬ 
lation  of  the  Hebrew  word.  The  fruit  is  called  (by  the 
Christians)  St.  John’s  bread,  and  the  tree,  which  is  an 
evergreen,  “the  locust  tree,”  from  the  belief  that  its  fruit 
is  the  locust  eaten  with  wild  honey  by  St.  John  in  the 
desert.  For  the  first  time,  perhaps,  without  the  consular 
precincts,  the  American  flag  has  been  raised  in  Palestine. 
May  it  be  the  harbinger  of  regeneration  to  a  now  hapless 
people ! 

We  were  surrounded  by  a  crowd  of  curious  Arabs,  of 


120 


FIRST  NIGHT  ASHORE. 


all  ages  and  conditions,  —  their  costumes  picturesque  and 
dirty.  The  rabble  already  began  to  show  their  thievish 
propensities  by  stealing  the  little  copper  chains  of  our 
thole-pins.  They  thought  that  they  were  gold.  Great 
fun  to  our  sailors  putting  together  the  carriages,  which 
with  the  harness  were  made  in  New  York  for  the  trans¬ 
portation  of  the  boats.  The  men  were  full  of  jokes  and 
merriment,  at  beginning  camp  life.  Mustafa,  the  cook, 
prepared  our  first  tea  in  Palestine. 

We  had  two  tents  made  of  American  canvass.  They 
were  circular,  so  constructed  that  the  boats’  masts  an¬ 
swered  as  tent-poles  to  them.  The  officers  occupied  the 
small  and  the  men  the  large  one.  We  had  each,  officers 
and  men,  a  piece  of  India-rubber  cloth,  two  yards  long,  to 
sleep  on,  and  a  blanket  or  comforter  to  cover  us. 

Night  came,  and  the  sentries  were  posted.  The  stars 
were  exceedingly  brilliant ;  the  air  clear  and  cool  — 
almost  too  cool,  —  and  the  surf  beat  in  melancholy  ca¬ 
dence,  interrupted  only  by  the  distant  cry  of  jackals  in 
the  mountains.  These,  I  suppose,  are  the  foxes  whose 
tails  were  tied  together  by  Sampson. 

Saturday,  April  1.  A  day  of  tribulation.  A  little  past 
midnight,  the  tinkling  of  bells  announced  the  arrival  of 
our  horses,  followed  soon  after  by  a  screaming  conversa¬ 
tion  in  Arabic  between  the  dragoman  (interpreter)  with¬ 
in  our  tent  and  the  chief  of  the  muleteers  outside.  Our 
sleeping  was  excessively  uncomfortable,  —  what  from  the 
cold,  and  the  stones  on  the  ground,  and  the  novelty,  we 
scarce  slept  a  wink.  Some  began  to  think  that  it  was 
not  a  “  party  of  pleasure,”  as  an  illiberal  print  had 
termed  it. 

With  the  first  ray  of  light,  we  saw  that  our  Arab 
steeds  were  most  miserable  galled  jades,  and  upon  trial 
entirely  unused  to  draught.  It  was  ludicrous  to  see 
how  loosely  the  harness  we  had  brought  hung  about 


EQUESTRIAN  DIFFICULTIES.  121 

their  meagre  frames.  On  trial,  as  an  exhibition  of  dis¬ 
content,  there  was  first  a  general  plunge,  and  then  a 
very  intelligible  equine  protest  of  rearing  and  kicking. 
After  infinite  trouble,  and  shifting  the  harness  to 
more  than  a  dozen  horses,  we  found  four  that  would 
draw,  when  once  started .  But  the  load  was  evidently 
too  much  for  them.  We  then  chartered  an  Arab  boat, 
to  convey  the  boats,  sails,  and  heavier  articles,  across 
the  bay  to  Acre.  Still,  the  horses  could  not,  or  would 
not,  budge ;  so  that  we  were  compelled  to  re-launch 
the  boats,  and  send  them  to  the  ship,  which  had  sailed 
over,  and  was  then  blazing  away,  returning  a  salute  of 
the  town.  With  a  sailor  mounted  on  each  of  the  trucks, 
the  horses  were  at  length  made  to  draw  them,  by  dint  of 
severe  beating.  The  road  along  the  beach  was  as  firm 
and  hard  as  a  floor.  About  half  a  mile  from  our  camping- 
place,  a  branch  of  the  V alley  of  Esdraelon  opened  on  the 
right,  drained  by  the  aNahr  Mukutta”  (the  river  of  the 
ford),  the  Kishon  of  Scripture,  in  which  Sisera  and  his 
host  were  drowned,  after  their  defeat  by  Deborah  and 
Barak,  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Tabor. 

u  The  river  of  Kishon  swept  them  away  : 

That  ancient  river,  —  the  river  of  Kishon.” 

It  was  to  the  brink  of  this  brook  that  the  450  prophets 
of  Baal  were  brought  from  Mount  Carmel,  and  put  to 
death  by  order  of  Elijah.  The  half-frightened  horses 
dashed  into  the  stream,  which  they  crossed  without  diffi¬ 
culty,  it  being  only  about  eighteen  inches  deep,  and  as 
many  yards  across.  Onward  we  went,  occasionally  coming 
to  a  dead  halt,  rendering  necessary,  renewed  applications 
of  the  cudgel, — for  lighter  instruments  of  persuasion  were 
of  no  avail. 

The  road  ran  along  the  beach, — in  fact,  the  beach  was 
the  road,  curving  gently  towards  the  north,  and  eventually 
to  the  west.  Passing  the  wrecks  of  several  vessels,  buried 

11 


122 


ST.  JEAN  D’ACRE. 


in  the  sand,  about  six  miles  from  the  Kishon,  we  came  to 
the  river  Namaane  (Belus),  nearly  twice  as  deep  and  as 
wide  again  as  the  first.  Plnry  says,  that  near  this  river 
some  shipwrecked  Phoenician  sailors  discovered  the  mode 
of  making  glass,  by  observing  the  alkali  of  the  dried  sea¬ 
weed  that  they  burned,  to  unite  with  the  fused  silex  of 
the  shore.  Thence,  the  beach  sweeps  out  into  a  low 
projecting  promontory,  on  which  stands  “Akka,”  the  “St. 
Jean  d’Acre”  of  the  Crusades,  and  the  “Ptolemais”  of  the 
New  Testament. 

Akka  derived  its  name  from  the  church  of  St.  Jean 
d’Acre.  It  has  been  esteemed  the  key  of  all  Syria;  and 
Napoleon,  when  he  saw  it,  exclaimed,  “On  that  little 
town  hangs  the  destiny  of  the  East.”  It  checked  him  in 
his  victorious  career,  and  7ie,  who  had  never  known  a 
reverse,  recoiled  before  it.  An  English  fleet,  a  few  years 
since,  however,  proved  that  it  was  not  impregnable,  and 
its  walls  and  bastions  are  yet  in  a  dilapidated  state,  but 
they  are  now  being  thoroughly  repaired  and  strengthened. 

It  being  necessary  to  see  the  consul  and  the  governor, 
I  preceded  the  party  to  the  town.  At  the  outer  gate  of 
this  fortified  stronghold,  two  or  three  soldiers  were  stand¬ 
ing,  and  there  was  a  guard-room  just  within  it.  I  made 
my  way,  as  well  as  I  could,  to  the  house  of  our  consul,  to 
which  the  stars  and  stripes  occasionally  beckoned  me,  as, 
from  time  to  time,  I  caught  a  glimpse  of  them,  floating 
above  a  lofty  turret. 

Riding  through  a  mass  of  masonry,  with  every  conceiv¬ 
able  name  in  the  science  of  fortification,  —  through  tor¬ 
tuous,  ill-paved  streets,  and  narrow  bazaars  and  covered 
ways,  I  found  myself  at  the  bottom  of  a  “cul-de-sac.” 
Dismounting  before  a  low  gateway,  flanked  by  a  gallery 
of  blank  walls,  ascending  a  stone  stairway,  and  passing- 
through  courts  and  ruined  buildings,  I  reached  the  consul’s 
house,  and  was  in  a  few  moments  seated  on  his  divan. 


APPEARANCE  OF  THE  TOWN.  123 

Had  I  not  been  in  so  much  anxiety  about  our  opera¬ 
tions,  the  whole  scene  upon  my  entrance  into  St.  Jean 
d’Acre  would  have  been  exceedingly  interesting.  It  is 
the  strangest-looking  place  in  the  world,  besides  its  being 
so  renowned  from  the  days  of  chivalry  to  the  English 
bombardment.  Perhaps  no  other  town  in  the  world  could 
have  stood  the  hurtling  of  the  iron  hail-storm  as  well. 
In  some  places,  but  comparatively  few  in  number,  there 
were  chasms,  showing  where  a  cannon-shot  had  passed ;  in 
others,  the  shot  had  formed  a  lodgment,  and  remained  a 
fixture ;  and  in  others,  again,  had  only  made  an  indenta¬ 
tion  and  fallen  to  the  ground. 

A  short  distance  within  the  gate  was  a  narrow  bazaar, 
roughly  paved,  about  two  hundred  yards  in  length,  with 
small  open  shops,  or  booths,  on  each  side.  They  only 
exhibited  the  common  necessaries  of  life  for  sale.  A  short 
distance  farther,  opposite  to  the  inner  wall,  was  a  line  of 
workshops,  mostly  occupied  by  shoemakers.  These,  with 
a  few  feluccas  in  the  harbour,  presented  the  only  indica¬ 
tions  of  commerce. 

In  the  walls  of  our  consul’s  castellated  bomb-proof 
house  several  shot  were  lodged ;  and  in  the  court  I  stum¬ 
bled  over  broken  bomb-shells  and  fragments  of  masonry. 
From  the  flat  terrace  roof  we  looked  down  upon  number¬ 
less  neighbours  :  women  with  golden  hair-ornaments  and 
ragged  trousers, — for  they  were  too  large  to  be  called 
pantalettes.  There  was,  on  an  adjoining  terrace,  a  young 
girl  with  a  glorious  profusion  of  curling  tresses,  which, 
from  beneath  a  golden  net-work  on  her  head,  fell  grace¬ 
fully  down  upon  her  dumpy  form.  Besides  a  boddice,  or 
spencer,  she  wore  a  short  pelisse  and  full  trousers,  which, 
to  say  the  least,  were  rather  the  worse  for  wear.  I 
should  have  admired  the  dark,  wild-looking  eye  and  the 
luxuriant  hair,  had  it  not  been  whispered  to  me  that  in 
the  morning  her  beautiful  head  was  seen  undergoing  a 


124 


GOVERNOR  OF  ACRE. 


more  critical  examination  than  would  be  necessary  with 
one  of  our  fair  countrywomen. 

The  consul  having  prepared  himself,  we  went  forth  to 
seek  the  governor,  who,  with  his  suite,  had  gone  outside 
the  walls.  There  were  few  people  in  the  streets,  hut  I 
noticed  that  the  turban  was  more  generally  worn  than  in 
Beirut,  Smyrna,  or  Constantinople.  Civilization  has 
scarce  landed  upon  these  shores ;  and  in  Syria,  we  may 
look  for  more  unadulterated  specimens  of  the  Muslim 
character  than  in  the  capital  of  the  empire. 

We  found  the  governor  just  without  the  gate,  seated  in 
the  most  democratic  manner,  against  the  side  of  a  thatched 
hut,  a  cafe,  I  believe.  He  received  us  courteously,  and 
we  were  immediately  provided  with  seats.  It  was  a 
singular  place  of  audience,  and  contrasted  strangely  with 
the  sparkling  gem  upon  the  finger  of  the  governor,  the 
amber  mouth-piece  of  his  chibouque  encircled  with  dia¬ 
monds,  and  the  rich  dresses  and  jewel-hilted  swords  of 
some  of  his  officers :  hut  I  liked  it ;  there  was  no  pre¬ 
tension  or  parade,  and  it  looked  like  business ;  moreover, 
it  had  a  republican  air  about  it  that  was  gratifying. 

In  this  public  place,  the  parley  was  held,  and  the 
horses  that  he  had  furnished  were  abused  in  unmeasured 
terms.  His  officers  and  ourselves  were  seated  upon  stools 
and  benches ;  the  attendants  were  in  front,  and  the  rabble 
stood  around  and  listened  to  the  talk. 

Sa’id  Bey,  the  governor,  is  about  forty-five  years  of  age. 
He  is  a  Syrian  by  birth,  an  Egyptian  by  descent,  and 
almost  a  mulatto  in  complexion.  He  was  dressed  in 
plain  blue  pantaloons  and  a  long  blue  surtout,  and  wore 
a  black  beard  and  the  red  tarbouch.  His  countenance 
indicated  cunning,  if  not  treachery.  The  crowd  seemed 
to  be  on  such  familiar  terms  with  their  superiors  as 
would  have  been  edifying  to  the  citizens  of  some  of  our 
own  states  at  home. 


CONFERENCE  WITH  THE  GOVERNOR.  125 

In  brief  terms,  I  told  the  governor  how  worthless  the 
horses  proved  which  he  had  sent.  He  professed  his  deep 
sorrow,  but  asked  what  could  he  do,  for  there  were  none 
better  to  be  procured.  I  then  proposed  oxen,  but  he 
stated  that  it  was  then  the  height  of  seed-time,  and  that 
without  great  injury  to  the  husbandmen  he  could  not 
take  them.  This  was  confirmed  by  our  dragoman  and  a 
Syrian  gentleman,  a  Christian  convert,  educated  by  the 
missionaries  at  Beirut.  Of  course,  although  burning  with 
anxiety  to  proceed,  I  would  not  consent  to  profit  by  an 
act  of  injustice.  From  the  governor’s  manner,  however, 
I  suspected  that  he  was  coveting  a  bribe,  and  determined 
to  disappoint  him. 

Assuming  a  high  stand,  I  told  him  that  we  were  there 
not  as  common  travellers,  but  sent  by  a  great  country, 
and  with  the  sanction  of  his  own  government :  —  that  I 
called  upon  him  to  provide  us  with  the  means  of  trans¬ 
portation,  for  which  we  would  pay  liberally,  but  not  ex¬ 
travagantly.  That  his  own  sovereign  had  expressed  an 
interest  in  our  labours,  and  if  we  were  not  assisted, 
I  would  take  good  care  that  the  odium  of  failure  should 
rest  upon  the  shoulders  of  Said  Bey,  governor  of  Acre. 
By  this  time  a  great  concourse  of  people  had  gathered 
around,  and  he  said  that  he  would  see  what  could  be 
done,  and  let  me  know  in  the  course  of  the  evening. 

The  “  Supply”  had  in  the  mean  time  weighed  anchor, 
and  stood  close  in  shore  to  land  the  provisions  and  things 
sent  back  in  the  morning.  The  boats  of  the  expedition 
had  also  arrived,  as  well  as  the  trucks  drawn  round  the 
beach.  The  governor  and  his  officers  came  to  look  at 
them,  followed  by  nearly  the  whole  population  of  the 
town.  Such  a  mob  !  such  clamour  and  confusion  !  I  re¬ 
quested  the  governor  to  employ  the  police  to  clear  a  place 
for  us  to  pitch  our  tents  upon  the  beach.  He  did  so  im¬ 
mediately,  but  it  was  of  no  avail ;  for  the  crowd,  driven 
11* 


126 


ARAB  CURIOSITY. 


off  at  one  moment,  returned  the  next,  more  clamorous 
than  before  :  and  he  confessed  that  he  had  not  power  to 
prevent  the  townspeople  from  gratifying  their  laudable 
desire  for  information,  —  not  to  speak  of  acquisition,  for 
they  are  notorious  thieves.  But  for  its  vexation,  the 
scene  would  have  been  very  amusing.  In  the  midst  of 
this  Arab  crowd  were  many  women,  with  coloured  trow- 
sers  and  long  coarse  white  veils ;  and  some  stood  in  the 
grave-yard  immediately  behind  us,  in  dresses,  veils  and 
all,  of  common  check,  black  and  white. 

Finding  it  utterly  impossible  to  land  our  effects  and 
encamp  in  this  place,  we  returned  and  pitched  our  tents 
on  the  southern  bank  of  the  Belus.  But  even  here  the 
crowd  followed  us,  evincing  a  curiosity  only  to  be  equalled 
by  our  own  brethren  of  the  eastern  states.  Since  the 
authorities  could  not  or  would  not  protect  us,  we  deter¬ 
mined  to  take  the  law  into  our  own  hands  and  protect 
ourselves,  and  accordingly  posted  sentinels  with  fixed 
bayonets  to  keep  off  the  crowd.  Jack  did  it  effectually, 
and  the  flanks  of  two  or  three  bore  witness  to  the  “  capa¬ 
ble  impressure”  of  the  pointed  steel ;  after  which  we  were 
no  more  molested.  We  then  hauled  the  boats  up  to  a 
small  green  spot  beside  the  river,  and  a  short  distance 
from  the  sea.  Behind  us  was  the  great  plain  of  Acre. 
While  thus  engaged,  some  Arab  fellahin  (peasants)  passed 
us,  their  appearance  wild,  and  their  complexions  of  the 
negro  tint. 

With  conflicting  emotions  we  saw  the  “  Supply,”  under 
all  sail,  stand  out  to  sea.  Shall  any  of  us  live  to  tread 
again  her  clean,  familiar  deck?  What  matters  it!  We 
are  in  the  hands  of  God,  and,  fall  early,  or  fall  late,  we 
fall  only  with  his  consent. 

Late  in  the  afternoon,  I  received  an  invitation  from 
Said  Bey  to  come  to  the  palace.  Ascending  a  broad 
flight  of  steps,  and  crossing  a  large  paved  court,  I  was 


. 


hr  ■ ...  >:  7.  -  a ' 

i 


f 


AUDIENCE  AT  THE  GOVERNOR’S.  127 

ushered  into  an  oblong  apartment,  simply  furnished,  with 
the  divan  at  the  farther  end.  I  was  invited  to  take  the 
corner  seat,  among  Turks  the  place  of  honour.  Imme¬ 
diately  on  my  right,  was  the  cadi,  or  judge,  a  venerable 
and  self-righteous  looking  old  gentleman,  in  a  rich  cash- 
mere  cloak,  trimmed  with  fur.  On  his  right  sat  the 
governor.  Around  the  room  were  many  officers,  and 
there  were  a  number  of  attendants  passing  to  and  fro, 
bearing  pipes  and  coffee  to  every  new  comer.  But,  what 
specially  attracted  my  attention,  was  a  magnificent  savage, 
enveloped  in  a  scarlet  cloth  pelisse,  richly  embroidered 
with  gold.  He  was  the  handsomest,  and  I  soon  thought 
also,  the  most  graceful  being  I  had  ever  seen.  His  com¬ 
plexion  was  of  a  rich,  mellow,  indescribable  olive  tint, 
and  his  hair  a  glossy  black ;  his  teeth  were  regular,  and  of 
the  whitest  ivory ;  and  the  glance  of  his  eye  was  keen 
at  times,  but  generally  soft  and  lustrous.  With  the  tar- 
bouch  upon  his  head,  which  he  seemed  to  wear  uneasily, 
he  reclined,  rather  than  sat,  upon  the  opposite  side  of  the 
divan,  while  his  hand  played  in  unconscious  familiarity 
with  the  hilt  of  his  yataghan.  He  looked  like  one  who 
would  be 

“  Steel  amid  the  din  of  arms, 

And  wax  when  with  the  fair.” 

Just  as  we  were  seated,  an  old  marabout  entered  the 
room,  and,  without  saluting  any  one,  squatted  upon  the 
floor  and  commenced  chanting  verses  from  the  Koran. 
He  had  a  faded  brown  cloak  drawn  around  him,  and  a 
dingy,  conical  felt  hat,  such  as  is  worn  by  the  dervishes, 
upon  his  head.  His  whole  person  and  attire  were  ex¬ 
ceedingly  filthy,  and  his  countenance  unprepossessing  in 
the  extreme.  The  company  sat  in  silence  while  he  con¬ 
tinued  to  chant  verse  after  verse  in  a  louder  and  yet 
louder  tone.  At  length  the  governor  asked  the  cause  of 
the  interruption,  but  received  no  answer ;  save,  that  the 


128 


A  SANTON. 


last  word  of  the  verse  which  the  madman  or  impostor  was 
reciting  at  the  moment  was  sent  forth  with  a  yell,  and 
the  next  verse  commenced  in  a  shriller  key  than  the  one 
which  had  preceded  it.  The  whole  council  (for  such  I 
suppose  it  may  be  called)  now  resigned  itself  to  the  inflic¬ 
tion  ;  and,  with  a  ludicrous,  apologetic  air,  the  cadi  whis¬ 
pered  to  me,  “  It  is  a  santon  !” 

At  length  the  marabout  paused  for  want  of  breath,  and 
the  governor  repeated  his  former  question.  This  time 
there  was  a  reply,  and  a  very  intelligible  one.  He 
wanted  charity.  A  sum  of  money  was  directed  to  be 
given  to  him,  and  he  took  his  departure.  Surely  this  is 
a  singular  country  !  Such  an  importunate  mode  of  beg¬ 
ging  I  never  saw  before,  although  I  have  been  in  Sicily. 
I  relate  the  circumstance,  with  no  farther  comment, 
exactly  as  it  occurred. 

When  we  were  again  quiet,  the  governor  stated  that 
since  he  had  parted  with  me  he  had  received  the  most 
alarming  intelligence  of  the  hostile  spirit  of  the  Arab 
tribes  bordering  on  the  Jordan,  and  pointed  to  the  savage 
chief  as  his  authority.  Tie  named  him  ’Akll  Aga  el 
Hassee,  a  great  border  sheikh  of  the  Arabs.  The 
governor  proceeded  to  say  that  the  “most  excellent 
sheikh”  had  just  come  in  from  the  Ghor,  where  the  tribes 
were  up  in  arms,  at  war  among  themselves,  and  pillaging 
and  maltreating  all  who  fell  into  their  hands.  He  was, 
therefore,  of  opinion  that  we  could  not  proceed  in  safety 
with  less  than  a  hundred  soldiers  to  guard  us ;  and  said 
that  if  I  would  agree  to  pay  twenty  thousand  piastres 
(about  eight  hundred  dollars),  he  would  procure  means 
for  the  transportation  of  the  boats,  and  guaranty  us  from 
molestation. 

He  could  not  look  me  in  the  face  when  he  made  this 
proposition,  and  it  immediately  occurred  to  me  that  the 
Bedawin  sheikh  had  been  brought  in  as  a  bugbear  to  in- 


AK1L  AGA 


INEFFECTUAL  PARLEY.  129 

timidate  me  into  terms.  This  idea  strengthened  with 
reflection,  until  I  had  reached  a  state  of  mind  exactly  the 
reverse  of  what  Said  Bey  anticipated. 

The  discussion  lasted  for  some  time,  the  governor,  the 
cadi,  the  sheikh,  and  others,  whose  names  and  rank  I  did 
not  know,  urging  me  to  accept  the  offer.  This  I  posi¬ 
tively  declined,  stating  that  I  was  not  authorized,  and  if 
I  were  would  scorn  to  buy  protection :  that  if  draught 
horses  could  be  procured  or  oxen  furnished,  I  would  pay 
fairly  for  them  and  for  a  few  soldiers  to  act  as  scouts ;  but 
that  we  were  well  armed  and  able  to  protect  ourselves. 

Finally,  the  governor  finding  that  I  would  not  embrace 
his  terms,  although  he  mitigated  his  demand,  urged  me 
to  abandon  the  enterprise.  To  this  I  replied  that  we 
were  ordered  to  explore  the  Dead  Sea,  and  were  deter¬ 
mined  to  obey. 

He  then  advised  me,  with  much  earnestness,  to  go  by 
the  way  of  Jerusalem.  As  he  was  too  ignorant  to  under¬ 
stand  the  geographical  difficulties  of  that  route,  I  merely 
answered  that  we  had  set  our  faces  towards  the  Sea  of 
Galilee,  and  were  not  disposed  to  look  back. 

The  sheikh  here  said  that  the  Bedawin  of  the  Ghor 
would  eat  us  up.  My  reply  was  that  they  would  find  us 
difficult  of  digestion ;  but  as  he  might  have  some  influ¬ 
ence  with  the  tribes,  I  added  that  we  would  much  prefer 
going  peaceably,  paying  fairly  for  all  services  rendered 
and  provisions  supplied ;  but  go  at  all  hazards  we  were 
resolutely  determined.  Here  the  conference  ended,  it 
having  been  prolonged  by  the  necessity  of  conversing 
through  an  interpreter,  which  had,  however,  this  advan¬ 
tage,  that  it  gave  me  full  time  to  take  notes. 

Without  the  court  I  overtook  the  sheikh,  who  had  pre¬ 
ceded  me,  and  asked  him  many  questions  about  the  tribes 
of  the  Jordan.  In  the  course  of  the  conversation  I 
showed  my  sword  and  revolver  —  the  former  with  pistol 

i 


130  AMERICAN  TRAVELLERS. 

barrels  attached  near  the  hilt.  He  examined  them 
closely,  and  remarked  that  they  were  the  66  devil’s  inven¬ 
tion.”  I  then  told  him  that  we  were  fifteen  in  number, 
and  besides  several  of  those  swords  and  revolvers,  had 
one  large  gun  (a  blunderbuss),  a  rifle,  fourteen  carbines 
with  bayonets,  and  twelve  bowie-knife  pistols,  and  asked 
him  if  he  did  not  think  we  could  descend  the  Jordan. 
His  reply  was,  “  You  will,  if  anybody  can.”  After  part¬ 
ing  from  him,  I  learned  that  he  was  last  year  at  the  head 
of  several  tribes  in  rebellion  against  the  Turkish  govern¬ 
ment,  and  that,  unable  to  subdue  him,  he  had  been 
bought  in  by  a  commission,  corresponding  to  that  of 
colonel  of  the  irregular  Arabs  (very  irregular!),  and  a 
pelisse  of  honour.  It  was  the  one  he  wore. 

It  was  now  near  nightfall  and  the  gates  were  closed ; 
I  therefore  accompanied  our  consul  to  his  house  for  re¬ 
freshment  and  a  bed,  for  I  had  eaten  nothing  since  early 
in  the  morning.  It  was  a  great  disappointment  to  me  to 
be  separated  from  the  camp ;  for,  apart  from  the  wish  to 
participate  in  its  hardships,  I  was  anxious  to  consult 
with  Mr.  Hale,  who  had  cheered  me  throughout  the  day 
by  his  zealous  co-operation. 

On  reaching  the  consul’s,  I  was  told  that  some  Ameri¬ 
can  travellers  from  Nazareth  had  called  to  see  me  in  my 
absence,  and  were  to  be  found  at  the  Franciscan  Convent. 
Thither,  I  immediately  hastened,  anxious  alike  to  greet 
a  countryman,  and  to  gather  information,  for  Nazareth 
was  nearly  in  our  contemplated  line  of  route. 

They  proved  to  be  Major  Smith,  of  the  United  States’ 
Engineers,  an  esteemed  acquaintance,  and  Mr.  Sargent, 
of  New  York,  together  with  an  English  gentleman.  Their 
account  confirmed  the  rumour  of  the  disturbed  state  of  the 
country,  and  they  had  themselves  been  attacked  two 
nights  previous,  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Tabor. 

I  can  give  a  very  inadequate  idea  of  my  feelings.  To 


131 


DOUBTS  AND  DELIBERATIONS. 

turn  back,  was  out  of  the  question;  and  my  soul  revolted 
at  tlie  thought  of  bribing  Said  Bey,  even  if  I  had  been 
authorized  to  spend  money  for  such  a  purpose.  I  felt 
sure  that  he  had  exaggerated  in  his  statement,  and  yet 
the  attack  on  our  countrymen,  so  far  this  side  of  the  Jor¬ 
dan,  staggered  me.  Had  my  own  life  been  the  only  one 
at  stake,  I  should  have  been  comparatively  reckless ;  but 
those  only  can  realize  what  I  suffered,  who  have  them¬ 
selves  felt  responsibility  for  the  lives  of  others. 

From  all  the  information  I  could  procure  of  the  Arab 
character,  I  had  arrived  at  the  conclusion,  that  it  would 
tend  more  to  gain  their  good-will  if  we  threw  ourselves 
among  them  without  an  escort,  than  if  we  were  accom¬ 
panied  by  a  strong  armed  force.  In  my  first  interview 
with  Said  Bey,  therefore,  I  only  asked  for  ten  horsemen, 
to  act  as  videttes,  which,  under  the  impression  that  they 
would  be  insufficient,  he  so  long  hesitated  to  grant,  that  I 
withdrew  the  application,  and  resolved  to  proceed  with¬ 
out  them.  He  afterwards  pressed  me  to  take  them,  and, 
calling  upon  me  at  the  consul’s,  offered  to  furnish  them 
free  of  cost ;  but  I  was  steadfast  in  refusal. 

The  attack  upon  our  countrymen,  however,  indicated 
danger  of  collision  at  the  very  outset,  and  I  determined 
to  be  prepared  for  it. 

On  leaving  the  “  Supply,”  I  had  placed  a  sum  of  money 
in  charge  of  Lieutenant-Commanding  Pennock,  with  the 
request,  that  he  would,  in  person,  deliver  it  to  H.  B.  M. 
Consul  at  Jerusalem.  Partly  for  that  purpose,  and  in 
part  to  make  some  simultaneous  barometrical  observa¬ 
tions,  he  had  sailed  for  Jaffa,  which  is  about  thirty  miles 
distant  from  the  Holy  City.  To  him,  therefore,  I  des¬ 
patched  a  messenger,  asking  him  to  call  upon  the  Pasha, 
and  request  a  small  body  of  soldiers  to  be  sent  to  meet  us 
at  Tiberias,  or  on  the  Jordan.  This  precaution  taken, 
my  mind  was  at  ease,  and,  indeed,  I  was  half  ashamed  of 


182 


GRADATIONS  OF  RANK. 


the  previous  misgivings ;  for,  from  the  first,  I  had  felt 
that  we  should  succeed. 

In  the  camp,  the  day  passed  quietly.  At  one  time, 
there  was  a  perfect  fete  around  it,  —  pedlers,  fruit- 
sellers,  and  a  musician  with  a  bagpipe,  who  seemed  to  sing 
extemporaneously,  like  the  Bulgarian,  at  San  Stefano. 
At  length,  the  crowd  becoming  troublesome,  a  space  was 
cleared  around  the  encampment,  and  lines  of  demarcation 
drawn.  Crosses  were  then  made  at  the  corners,  which, 
from  some  superstitious  feeling,  the  people  were  afraid 
to  pass. 

In  the  evening,  at  the  consul’s,  we  received  many 
visitors,  scarce  any  three  of  whom  were  seated,  or  rather 
squatted,  in  the  same  attitude.  There  is  no  part  of  the 
world  I  have  ever  visited,  where  the  lines  of  social  dis¬ 
tinction  are  more  strictly  drawn  than  here.  In  the  pre¬ 
sent  instance,  the  highest  in  rank  were  squatted,  a  la 
Turque,  with  their  heels  beneath  them,  upon  the  divan. 
The  next  in  grade  were  a  little  more  upright,  in  a  half 
kneeling  attitude ;  the  third,  between  a  sitting  posture 
and  a  genuflexion,  knelt  with  one  leg,  while  they  sat 
upon  the  other ;  and  the  fourth,  and  lowest  I  saw,  knelt 
obsequiously,  as  if  at  their  devotions.  It  was  amusing 
to  see  the  shifting  of  postures  on  the  entrance  of  a  visitor 
of  a  higher  rank  than  any  present ; — when  the  squatters, 
drawing  themselves  up,  assumed  a  more  reverential  atti¬ 
tude,  and  they  who  had  been  supported  on  one  knee, 
found  it  necessary  to  rest  upon  two. 

I  was  particularly  struck  with  these  evolutions,  on  the 
entrance  of  a  fine  old  man,  an  Arab  nobleman,  called 
Sherif  Hazza  of  Mecca,  the  thirty-third  lineal  descendant 
of  the  Prophet.  He  was  about  fifty  years  of  age,  of  a  dark 
Egyptian  complexion,  small  stature,  and  intelligent  fea¬ 
tures.  His  father  and  elder  brother  had  been  sherifs,  or 
governors  of  Mecca  until  the  latter  was  deposed  by  Me- 


SHERIF  OF  MECCA. 


133 


hemet  Ali.  He  was  dressed  in  a  spencer  and  capacious 
trousers  of  fine  olive  cloth.  His  appearance  was  very 
prepossessing,  and  he  evinced  much  enlightened  curiosity 
with  regard  to  our  country  and  its  institutions.  We  were 
told  that  from  his  descent  he  was  held  in  great  veneration 
by  the  Arabs ;  and  I  observed  that  every  Muhammedan 
who  came  in,  first  approached  him  and  kissed  his  hand 
with  an  air  of  profound  respect.  He  was  as  communi¬ 
cative  about  his  own  affairs  as  he  was  inquisitive  with 
respect  to  us  and  our  country.  Finding  that  he  was 
now  doing  nothing,  but  inactively  awaiting  the  decision 
of  a  law-suit,  I  suddenly  proposed  that  he  should  accom¬ 
pany  us.  At  first  he  smiled,  as  if  the  proposition  were 
an  absurd  one ;  but  when  I  explained  to  him  that,  instead 
of  a  party  of  private  individuals,  we  were  commissioned 
officers  and  seamen,  sent  from  a  far  distant  but  powerful 
country  to  solve  a  scientific  question,  he  became  interested. 
I  further  added  that,  with  us,  I  knew  he  believed  in 
the  writings  of  Moses ;  and  that,  with  solutions  of  scien¬ 
tific  questions,  we  hoped  to  convince  the  incredulous  that 
Moses  was  a  true  prophet.  He  listened  eagerly,  and  after 
some  farther  conversation,  rose  abruptly,  and  saying  that 
he  would  very  soon  give  me  an  answer,  took  his  depar¬ 
ture.  I  had,  in  the  mean  time,  become  very  anxious ; 
for  it  seemed  as  if  he  had  been  providentially  thrown  in 
our  way.  But  it  was  necessary  to  conceal  my  feelings, 
for  it  is  the  nature  of  this  people  to  rise  in  their  demands 
in  exact  proportion  to  the  anxiety  you  express ;  and  even 
if  he  were  to  consent  to  accompany  us,  he  might  rate  his 
services  at  an  exorbitant  price. 

Sooner  even  than,  in  my  impatience,  I  had  anticipated, 
he  returned  and  accepted  the  invitation,  shaming  my 
previous  fears  of  imposition  by  saying  that  he  left  the 
remuneration  of  his  services  entirely  to  my  own  appraise¬ 
ment.  He  also  brought  a  message  from  ’Akil,  the 
12 


134 


CAMELS  FOR  DRAUGHT. 


handsome  savage,  to  the  purport  that  Sa’id  Bey  was  a 
humbug,  and  had  been  endeavouring  to  frighten  me. 
Sherif  thought  it  not  unlikely  that  the  shiekh  might  also 
be  induced  to  accompany  us,  if  the  negotiation  were  con¬ 
ducted  with  secresy. 

This  Sa’id  Bey  is  an  instance  of  the  vicissitudes  of 
fortune  in  the  Ottoman  empire.  Holding  an  office  under 
Ibrahim  Pasha,  when  the  Egyptians  were  in  possession 
of  the  country,  he  was  detected  in  malpractices ;  and  at 
the  restoration  of  Acre  to  the  Turks,  was  found  in 
chains,  condemned  to  labour  for  life.  He  now  walks  as 
master  through  the  streets  which  he  formerly  swept. 
When  the  company  had  retired,  the  consul,  “  on  hospitable 
cares  intent,”  being  a  bachelor,  superintended  in  person 
the  preparation  of  my  bed.  Among  other  things,  he  had 
spread  upon  it  a  silk  sheet,  soft  and  tine  enough  to  deck 
the  artificial  figure  of  a  city  belle,  and  sufficiently  large 
for  the  ensign  of  a  sloop-of-war. 

Although  the  couch  was  luxurious,  the  balm  of  refresh¬ 
ing  sleep  was  long  denied,  and  for  hours  I  laid  awake  and 
restless,  for  I  was  not  alone — the  fleas  were  multitudinous 
and  remorseless. 

There  seemed  to  be  no  alternative  but  to  take  the  boats 
apart  and  transport  them  across  in  sections,  unless 
camels  could  be  made  to  draw  in  harness,  and  I  deter¬ 
mined  to  try  the  experiment.  During  the  night,  I  suf¬ 
fered  dreadfully  from  the  nightmare,  and  the  incubus  was 
a  camel. 

Sunday,  April  2.  In  the  afternoon,  when  the  religious 
exercises  of  the  day  were  over,  the  experiment  of  sub¬ 
stituting  camels  for  draught  horses  was  tried  and  proved 
successful ;  and  my  heart  throbbed  with  gratitude  as  the 
huge  animals,  three  to  each,  marched  off  with  the  trucks, 
the  boats  upon  them,  with  perfect  ease. 

The  harness,  all  too  short,  presented  a  fit-out  more  gro- 


■ 


t  ■'  r  ■  *!  1 .  ri 

'  *  ■'  '  '  " 

‘ 


VEXATIOUS  DELAYS.  135 

tesque  even  than  that  of  a  diligence  in  an  interior  pro¬ 
vince  of  France  ;  hut,  with  alterations,  it  answered  the 
purpose,  and  we  felt  independent  of  Sa’id  Bey,  for  camels, 
at  least,  could  be  had  in  abundance.  Determined,  there¬ 
fore,  not  again  to  have  recourse  to  the  grasping  governor, 
I  contracted  with  Sa’id  Mustafa,  a  resident  of  the  town, 
for  the  necessary  number  of  camels  and  horses. 

The  first  attempt  to  draw  the  trucks  by  camels  was  a 
novel  sight,  witnessed  by  an  eager  crowd  of  people.  The 
successful  result  taught  them  the  existence  of  an  unknown 
accomplishment  in  that  patient  and  powerful  animal, 
which  they  had  before  thought  fit  only  to  plod  along  with 
its  heavy  load  upon  its  back. 

The  qualities  of  the  camel,  uncouth  and  clumsy  as  he 
is,  are  scarcely  appreciated  in  the  East,  or  he  would  be 
more  carefully  tended.  It  is  a  matter  of  surprise  that  the 
Romans  never  employed  them.  Porus  used  them  against 
Alexander,  and  the  Parthians  against  Crassus ;  but,  I  be¬ 
lieve,  as  far  as  history  tells,  the  Romans  never  employed 
them  in  warfare,  nor  in  any  manner  as  means  of  trans¬ 
portation. 

Monday,  April  3.  We  were  moving  betimes,  packing 
up  and  waiting  for  the  camels  to  transport  our  baggage, 
the  boats  having  gone  ahead.  After  many  vexatious 
delays,  made  a  start  at  2.30  P.  M.,  but  soon  after  two  of 
the  camels  breaking  down,  we  were  compelled  to  camp 
again.  While  Mr.  Dale  was  getting  the  camp  in  order,  I 
rode  out  into  the  plain  after  the  boats  and  a  part  of  the 
caravan  which  had  gone  ahead  with  the  bedding.  About 
five  miles  from  town  I  overtook  them  and  turned  them 
back.  As  the  sun  sank  beneath  the  Mediterranean, 
which  lay  boundless  as  the  view  to  the  west,  the  moun¬ 
tains  and  the  plain  presented  a  singular  appearance. 

At  times,  from  the  mountains  to  the  sea  the  land  was 
entirely  concealed  by  mist,  which  condensing  as  the  heat 


136 


SHEIKH  ’AKIL. 


decreased,  had  the  effect  of  a  mirage,  and  seemed  to  ex¬ 
tend  the  plain  as  far  in  one  direction  as  the  sea  did  in 
another,  and  made  them  one  illimitable  green,  except 
where  large  spots  of  the  surface  were  decked  with  the 
daisy,  the  anemone,  and  the  convolvulus,  which,  inter¬ 
mingling  in  beautiful  contrast,  presented  a  mosaic  of 
emerald,  ruby,  turquoise  and  gold. 

Here  and  there,  scattered  upon  the  plain,  were  conical- 
shaped  green  tents,  with  tethered  horses  feeding  near 
them ;  some  of  the  last,  belonging  to  the  Pasha,  were 
beautiful  Arabians,  exceedingly  quick  and  graceful  in 
their  movements. 

Just  without  the  town  we  met  the  Bedawin  sheikh  ’Aldl, 
who  handed  me  a  letter  sent  by  express  from  our  consul 
at  Beirut.  The  sheikh,  on  his  way  to  Abelin,  one  of  his 
villages,  was  kind  enough  to  be  the  bearer  of  the  letter. 
It  contained  the  required  firman  from  the  Pasha  of  Da¬ 
mascus.  ’Akil  was  dressed  in  the  same  scarlet  cloak, 
flowing  white  trowsers,  and  red  tarbouch  and  boots  as  in 
the  council  two  days  previous.  He  was  mounted  on  a 
spirited  mare,  and  long  after  our  parting  I  could  see  his 
scarlet  cloak  streaming  in  the  wind  as  he  scoured  across 
the  plain. 

We  camped  on  the  same  spot  we  had  occupied  the  two 
preceding  days,  and  were  soothed  with  the  promise  of 
having  a  sufficient  number  of  camels  in  the  morning. 
The  sherif  paid  us  a  visit  and  promised  to  join  us  on  the 
route,  as  he  feared  that  Sa’id  Bey  would  detain  him  if  he 
heard  of  our  engagement.  The  son  of  Dr.  Anderson  had 
come  with  us  from  Beirut,  and  proposed  remaining  at  Acre 
until  he  heard  from  his  father,  and  with  him  I  left  the 
following  letter  for  the  Doctor,  in  the  event  of  our  not 
meeting  for  some  time  : 

“  Dear  Sir  :  —  Having  at  your  request  associated  you 
in  the  expedition  under  my  command,  with  the  express 


LETTER  TO  DR.  ANDERSON.  137 

understanding  that  you  are  to  make  no  communication, 
verbal  or  otherwise,  of  the  labours  or  results  thereof,  of 
yourself  or  any  member  pertaining  to  it,  save  to  myself 
officially,  until  relieved  from  the  obligation  by  the  Hon. 
Secretary  of  the  Navy,  I  beg  leave  to  name  a  few  points, 
in  the  elucidation  of  which,  I  believe,  as  well  as  hope, 
that  you  can  materially  aid  us. 

“  The  geological  structure  and  physical  phenomena  of 
the  shores  of  the  Dead  Sea  and  the  terraces  of  the  Jordan, 
and  if  time  permit,  of  the  ranges  of  the  Lebanon  also, 
constitute  in  their  investigation  one  of  the  most  interest¬ 
ing  and  important  objects  of  the  expedition. 

“  The  volcanic  phenomena  of  the  Dead  Sea  require  the 
strictest  investigation,  that  in  connexion  with  a  line  of 
soundings  by  the  surveying  party,  the  presumed  fault 
running  north  and  south  through  it  may  be  verified  or 
disproved. 

“  It  is  desirable  to  obtain  mineralogical  specimens,  to 
ascertain  if  the  surrounding  regions  be  volcanic,  and  for 
the  future  purpose  of  comparing  them  with  similar  speci¬ 
mens  from  Vesuvius  or  some  modern  active  volcano,  in 
order  to  ascertain  whether  or  not  modern  volcanic  pro¬ 
ductions  differ  from  more  ancient  ones. 

“  The  nature  of  the  soil,  on  the  eastern  shore  especially, 
as  formed  by  disintegration,  and  the  nature  of  the  vege¬ 
tation  as  connected  with  it,  are  points  of  useful  enquiry. 

u  The  soil  in  which  grapes  of  such  extraordinary  size 
are  said  to  grow  should  be  collected  for  analysis,  to  ascer¬ 
tain  if  the  chemical  composition  has  any  influence  on  the 
size  of  the  fruit. 

u  In  a  minute  examination  for  volcanic  characters, 
parts  of  the  eastern  coast  may  be  found  to  consist  of  ba¬ 
saltic  rocks,  with  a  crystalline  structure,  perpendicular 
to  the  surface,  and  disintegrating  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
present  perpendicular  cliffs.  Trap  rocks  may  be  found 
12  * 


4 


138  LETTER  TO  DR.  ANDERSON. 

cropping  out  through  other  rocks,  more  or  less  homoge¬ 
nous  in  their  appearance,  with  small  disseminated  crys¬ 
tals  sometimes  magnetic.  The  dark  basaltic  rock  is  (said 
to  be)  frequent  near  Tiberias.  Rocks  containing  fossils 
claim  particular  attention,  and  as  many  varieties  of  fossils 
should  be  collected  as  possible. 

“  Specimens  of  mud  from  various  parts  of  the  sea,  river 
and  lake,  should  be  collected  and  placed  in  air-tight 
vessels. 

“  It  is  said  that  the  mountains  of  the  west  coast  consist 
principally  of  a  bituminous  limestone,  which  inflames, 
smokes,  and  is  foetid.*  Lumps  of  sulphur  as  large  as  a 
walnut  have  been  found  at  Ain  el  Feshkha.  On  the  west 
coast  small  fragments  of  flint,  flesh  red  and  brown,  have 
also  been  found;  and  on  the  banks  of  the  Jordan,  nearly 
opposite  Jericho,  rolled  pebbles  of  white  carbonate  of  lime 
with  thin  veins  of  quartz. 

“  Although  not  immediately  within  your  province,  I 
invite  your  attention  to  Cochise  and  Conch se.  Speci¬ 
mens  of  any  species  of  crustacsea,  even  the  most  minute, 
are  very  desirable. 

“It  is  most  important  to  ascertain  whether  birds  live 
on  the  shores,  or  fish  within  the  depths,  of  the  Dead  Sea; 
and  not  less,  to  note  carefully  every  stream  and  fissure, 
their  direction  and  their  depth,  and  to  ascertain,  if  pos¬ 
sible,  whether  the  former  are  perpetual,  or  only  tempo¬ 
rary,  torrents. 

“  It  is  not  my  intention  to  limit  your  inquiries,  or  to 
pretend  to  instruct  you,  on  a  subject  wherein  you  are  so 
much  better  informed  than  myself ;  but  to  give  you  an 
idea  of  the  general  range  of  investigation,  deemed  most 
advisable  to  attain  a  satisfactory  result. 

“H.  J.  Anderson,  M.  D.” 


*  Robinson  and  Smith. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


FROM  ST.  JEAN  D’ACRE  TO  DEPARTURE  FROM 

THE  SEA  OF  GALILEE. 

Tuesday,  April  4.  The  daylight  brought  disappoint¬ 
ment.  As  Sa’id  Mustafa  was  not  to  be  found,  I  sent  the 
dragoman  to  our  consul,  requesting  him  to  call  imme¬ 
diately  upon  the  governor,  and  demand  more  camels;  for 
I  had  determined  that  I  would  not,  under  any  circum¬ 
stances,  again  present  myself  before  him.  By  8  o’clock, 
two  additional  camels  arrived,  and,  at  9  o’clock,  we  took 
up  the  line  of  march  after  the  boats, — sixteen  horses, 
eleven  loaded  camels,  and  a  mule. 

As  we  were  starting,  Sa’id  Bey  had  the  effrontery  to 
send  to  me  for  a  letter,  stating  that  he  had  rendered  all 
the  services  I  had  required.  I  sent  him  word  in  reply, 
that  he  had  done  nothing  to  assist  us ;  and  that  of  his 
gross  attempt  at  extortion,  I  had  apprised  our  govern¬ 
ment  at  home,  our  minister  at  Constantinople,  and  his 
superior,  the  Mushir,  at  Beirut. 

Following  the  beach  to  within  two  hundred  yards  of 
the  town,  we  turned  off  to  the  east,  and  skirted  a  hill, 
whence,  on  the  left,  we  saw  an  aqueduct,  and  the 
garden  of  Abdallah  Pasha,  —  a  grove  in  the  midst  of  a 
verdant,  but  treeless  plain.  Pursuing  the  same  route 
taken  the  evening  before,  we  crossed  the  great  plain 
of  Acre,  enamelled  with  flowers,  and  struck  into  a  rolling 
country  of  gentle  undulations.  Besides  the  profusion  of 
flowers,  a  stunted  tree  was  here  and  there  presented. 

(139* 


140 


AN  UNCERTAIN  GUIDE. 


The  evening  before,  I  had  promised  ’Akil  to  visit  him 
in  his  mountain  fortress,  if  I  could,  and  one  of  his  followers 
now  presenting  himself  as  a  guide,  we  rode  ahead  of  the 
caravan.  The  village  of  Abelin  was  soon  visible  on  the 
summit  of  a  high  hill,  rising  abruptly  from  the  southern 
slope  of  the  plain.  To  the  east  and  south-east,  in  the  far 
distance,  were  two  other  villages ;  all  else  was  a  nearly 
level  plain,  with  broken  ground  in  front.  Riding  over 
the  shoulder  of  the  hill,  we  opened  upon  the  head  of  a 
ravine, — wide  at  first,  but  narrowing  to  a  gorge  as  it 
descended,  and  swept  around  the  bases  of  the  hills. 
Crowning  the  one  opposite,  Abelin*  looked  like  an  inac¬ 
cessible  lion’s  hold.  I  had  been  cautioned  to  be  upon  my 
guard;  knew  nothing  of  ’Akil,  except  that  he  was  a 
daring  Arab  chief ;  had  never  before  seen  my  guide,  and 
was  uncertain  whether  he  would  prove  treacherous  or 
faithful.  I  had  accepted  the  invitation,  for  I  was  anxious 
to  prevail  on  ’Akil  also  to  accompany  us,  and  I  felt  that 
it  would  not  answer  to  show  distrust.  To  guard  against 
the  worst,  however,  I  gave  to  a  fellah,  whom  we  met,  a 
note  for  Mr.  Dale,  directing  him,  if  I  should  not  return, 
to  push  on,  without  delay,  and  accomplish  the  objects  of 
the  expedition. 

The  steep  rugged  path  had  never  before  been  trodden 
by  any  other  than  an  Arab  horse ;  and  but  that  the  one 
upon  which  I  rode  was  singularly  surefooted,  he  would 
have  often  stumbled  and  dislodged  me,  for  I  could  not 
guide  him,  so  much  were  my  senses  engrossed  by  the  ex¬ 
traordinary  variety,  fragrance,  and  beauty  of  innumerable 
plants  and  flowers. 

The  village,  perched  upon  the  loftiest  peak,  commands 


*  Can  this  village  take  its  name  from  the  district  of  Abilene,  mentioned 
m  the  third  chapter  of  St.  Luke,  and  of  which  Lysanias  was  the  tetrarch  ? 
It  is  generally  supposed,  that  the  district  was  in  another  direction. 


INHOSPITALITY. 


141 


an  extensive  view  from  the  “  Album  promontorium”  to 
the  Convent  of  Mount  Carmel.  But,  if  the-'  situation  be  1 
beautiful,  the  place  itself  is  indescribably  poor  and  filthy. 
The  houses,  built  of  uncemented  stones,  are  mostly  one 
story  high,  and  have  flat,  mud  roofs ;  and  without,  and 
encircling  the  whole,  is  a  row  of  small,  dome-roofed 
hovels,  made  entirely  of  mud,  and  used  for  baking  bread ; 
all  enveloped  in  a  most  offensive  atmosphere,  tainted  by 
the  odour  of  the  fuel, — the  dried  excrement  of  camels. 
There  appeared  to  be  as  many  as  one  of  those  little  hovels 
to  each  dwelling. 

After  having  been  detained  in  an  open  court  until  I  be¬ 
came  impatient,  I  was  ushered  into  a  large  room,  open  in 
front,  with  a  mud  floor  and  smoke-stained  rafters,  covered 
with  twigs.  A  collection  of  smouldering  embers  was 
in  the  centre,  stuck  into  which,  a  small  and  exceedingly 
dirty  brass  coffee-pot  stood  simmering ;  and,  seated  at  the 
farther  end,  a  short  distance  from  it,  were  the  Sherif, 
’Akil,  and  a  number  of  Arabs,  armed  to  the  teeth.  I  had 
parted  with  the  first,  at  a  late  hour  the  previous  evening, 
when  he  started  for  Haifa,  ten  miles  in  another  direction ; 
and  how  he  could  have  come  there,  puzzled  me. 

For  some  moments,  scarce  a  word  was  said;  and,  from 
inability  to  speak  the  language,  I  could  not  break  the 
awkward  silence,  having  left  the  interpreter  with  the 
train,  where  his  services  were  necessary. 

There  were  some  twelve  or  fifteen  present.  Look 
where  I  would,  their  keen  black  eyes  were  riveted  upon 
me ;  and  wherever  I  turned  my  eyes,  theirs  immediately 
followed  the  same  direction.  I  turned  to  Sherif,  in  the 
hope  that  he  would  say  something,  which  would  have  been 
cheering,  although  I  could  not  understand  his  language ; 
but,  lost  in  thought,  he  seemed  to  be  studying  the  geolo¬ 
gical  structure  of  the  lighted  coal  upon  the  bowl  of  his 
narghile.  To  ’Akil  I  made  a  friendly  sign  of  recognition, 


142 


* 


EMBARRASSING  SITUATION. 

which  was  returned  without  rudeness,  but  without  cor¬ 
diality.  My  position  began  to  be  irksome,  rendered  not 
the  less  so,  from  the  circumstance  that  the  pipe  and  the 
cup  of  coffee,  the  invariable  marks  of  welcome  beneath  an 
Arab  roof,  were  withheld. 

I  do  not  know  when  I  have  so  earnestly  longed  for  a 
cup  of  coffee ;  for,  apart  from  the  danger  inferred  to 
myself,  its  not  being  tendered,  seemed  an  ominous  sign 
for  the  expedition.  The  whole  business  looked  like  a 
snare. 

While  these  thoughts  were  passing  through  my  mind, 
a  few  words  had  been  exchanged  between  the  leaders  and 
their  followers, — mostly  brief  questions  and  monosyllabic 
replies,  the  last  almost  invariably  the  Arabic  negative, 
“  Lah !” 

Presently  one  of  the  questions  elicited  quite  a  warm 
discussion,  during  which  I  sat  entirely  unnoticed,  except 
that  occasionally  one  of  the  speakers  looked  towards  me, 
when  his  example  was  followed  by  the  whole  assembly. 
There  was  an  evident  air  of  constraint ;  I  had  been  re¬ 
ceived  with  bare  civility,  and  they  seemed  undecided 
what  measures  to  pursue.  There  were  evidently  conflict¬ 
ing  opinions. 

Fretted  with  impatience,  and  perhaps  more  nervous 
than  I  should  have  been,  without  thinking,  I  looked  at 
my  watch.  There  was  an  instant  pause  in  the  conversa¬ 
tion,  and  while  Sherif  asked  to  see  it,  they  all  crowded 
eagerly  round.  It  was  no  curiosity  to  him,  but  most  of 
those  present  examined  it  earnestly,  like  so  many  wild 
Indians  for  the  first  time  beholding  a  mirror.  I  took  as 
much  time  as  possible  to  exhibit  the  works,  and  when 
they  would  look  no  longer,  drew  my  sword,  and  glad  to 
feel  it  in  my  grasp,  pointed  out  to  them  the  peculiar  con¬ 
struction  of  the  handle.  They  examined  it  as  closely  as 
they  could,  for,  unlike  the  watch,  I  would  not  part  with  it; 


A  RELEASE.  143 

when,  just  as  their  curiosity  was  becoming  sated,  a 
cheering  sound  struck  upon  my  ear.  A  single  glance 
satisfied  me  that  I  was  not  mistaken,  and  springing  to  my 
feet,  I  stretched  out  one  hand  for  the  watch,  while  with 
the  other  I  pointed  to  the  foot  of  the  hill,  and  cried  out 
“djemmell!”  Djemmell!  djemmell!  (camel!  camel!)  was 
echoed  by  many  voices,  for  the  caravan  was  in  sight,  and 
from  that  moment  there  was  a  marked  change  in  their 
manner  towards  me. 

I  cannot  venture  to  say  that  there  was  an  intention  to 
rob  me,  for,  despite  appearances,  I  could  hardly  think  so. 
It  may  be  that  the  omission  of  the  chibouque  and  coffee 
made  an  undue  impression  on  me,  and  that  my  ignorance 
of  Arab  habits  did  the  rest.  Perhaps,  too,  I  was  rendered 
morbidly  suspicious  by  the  consciousness  of  having  a 
large  sum  of  money  about  me.  If  a  robbery  were  contem¬ 
plated,  I  came  upon  them,  perhaps,  before  their  plans 
were  mature ;  or  the  arrival  of  Sherif,  who  could  have 
preceded  me  but  a  short  time,  might  have  disconcerted 
them.  At  all  events,  I  now  felt  safe ;  for  the  gaping 
mouth  of  the  blunderbuss  and  the  sheen  of  the  carbines 
borne  by  my  companions  proved  ample  protectors. 

Notwithstanding  the  awkwardness  of  our  recent  posi¬ 
tion  towards  each  other,  I  felt  no  hesitation  in  entering 
into  an  agreement  with  ’Akil  on  the  same  terms  as  with 
the  Sherif.  Our  language  was  that  of  signs,  fully  under¬ 
stood  by  both  parties. 

According  to  the  Arab  code  of  morals,  ’Akil  would 
have  been  perfectly  justified  in  robbing  me  prior  to  a  con¬ 
tract  ;  but  to  do  so  afterwards  would  be  the  height  of  dis¬ 
honour.  From  subsequent  conversations  with  him,  I 
was  enabled,  perhaps,  to  trace  the  cause  of  my  cool  recep¬ 
tion.  There  was  an  emissary  of  Said  Bey  present,  he 
said,  and  he  wished  to  mask  his  intention  of  joining  us. 

On  leaving  Acre,  our  course  was  first  due  east  to 


144  ARABS  OF  THE  DESERT. 

E.  S.  E.,  then  gradually  round  to  south,  when,  crossing  a 
ridge  by  Abelin,  which  shuts  in  the  plain,  the  train  en¬ 
tered  a  narrow  gorge,  and  thence  steering  E.  by  N.,  came 
to  the  Blowing  V alley  or  valley  of  the  winds,  with  forests 
of  white  oak  on  the  flanks  of  the  hills. 

I  rejoined  the  caravan  as  it  passed  by  Abelin,  leaving 
our  allies  to  follow.  They  were  to  bring  ten  spears,  and 
formidable  ones  they  proved  to  be.  The  road  becoming 
difficult  for  the  carriages,  we  moved  slowly,  and  our  Arab 
scouts  soon  overtook  us.  They  had  all  assumed  the  garb 
of  the  desert,  and  each,  with  a  flowing  dark  aba  (cloak) 
on,  and  the  yellow  koofeeyeh  upon  his  head,  bound  round 
with  a  cord  of  camel’s  hair,  dyed  black ;  and  bearing  a 
spear  eighteen  feet  in  length,  some  of  them  tufted  with 
ostrich  feathers,  looked  the  wild  and  savage  warrior. 

In  the  middle  of  Wady  en  Nafakh  (Blowing  Yalley), 
we  came  to  a  halt,  three  miles  from  Abelin.  It  was  yet 
early,  3  P.  M. ;  but  the  great  regulator  of  every  thing  con¬ 
nected  with  life  and  motion  in  the  East  is  water.  We  had 
passed  a  well  about  a  mile  back,  and  between  us  and  the 
next  one  was  a  narrow  defile,  presenting  great  obstruc¬ 
tions  to  the  passage  of  the  boats.  We  therefore  pitched 
our  tents  upon  a  gently  sloping  esplanade,  and  our  Be- 
dawin  friends  were  over-against  us. 

It  was  a  picturesque  spot;  on  the  left  of  our  tents, 
which  faced  the  south,  were  the  trucks  with  the  two 
boats,  forming  a  kind  of  entrenchment ;  behind  these 
were  about  thirty  camels  and  all  our  horses.  From  the 
boats,  and  in  front  of  our  white  tents,  the  American  flag 
was  flying;  and  just  beyond,  an  officer  and  two  sailors, 
with  carbines,  had  mounted  guard,  with  the  loaded  blun¬ 
derbuss  between  them.  The  tent  of  our  allies  was  a  blue 
one ;  and  the  horses  tethered  near,  and  tufted  spears  in 
front,  together  with  their  striking  costume,  varied  and 
enlivened  the  scene. 


THE  BLOWING  VALLEY. 


145 


Towards  each  end  of  the  valley,  about  half  a  mile  from 
the  camp,  one  of  the  Arab  horsemen  was  stationed,  and, 
cutting  sharp  against  the  sky,  ’Akil  was  upon  the  crest 
of  the  hill  in  our  rear,  taking  a  reconnoissance.  They 
promised  to  make  admirable  videttes.  We  had  reason 
to  rejoice  at  having  secured  them.  One  brought  us  a 
sheep,  which  we  shared  between  the  camps ;  and  Mr.  Dale 
and  myself  went  over  and  took  a  tiny  cup  of  coffee  with 
them.  Abelin  bore  from  the  camp  S.  W.  by  W.  i  W., 
per  compass.  We  took  solar  and  barometrical  observa¬ 
tions  ;  and  at  night,  observed  Polaris. 

We  this  day  passed  through  the  narrow  tract  on  the 
coast  of  Syria,  which  was  never  subdued  by  the  Israel¬ 
ites,  and  through  the  narrowest  part  of  the  land  of  the 
tribe  of  Asser  into  that  of  Zebulon,  where  we  then  were. 

At  first, 

“Night  threw  her  sable  mantle  o’er  the  earth, 

And  pinned  it  with  a  star 

but,  by  degrees,  the  whole  galaxy  came  forth,  and  twinkled 
upon  the  scene.  It  was  a  brilliant  night,  but  we  had  rea¬ 
son  to  consider  that  the  place  was  appropriately  named. 
About  midnight,  the  wind  blew  with  great  violence,  and 
we  were  compelled  to  turn  out,  and  assist  the  officer  of 
the  watch  in  securing  the  instruments. 

Wednesday,  April  5.  We  were  early  on  the  move;  the 
sun  was  rising  beautifully  over  the  eastern  hills ;  the 
camels  were  straying  about  upon  their  slopes,  and  the 
flags  and  ostrich  feathers  were  drooping  with  the  mist. 
Called  all  hands,  breakfasted,  struck  tents,  hitched 
camels,  and  started  at  8.20  A.  M.  The  carriages,  with 
the  boats,  were  drawn  by  three  camels  each,  two  abreast 
and  one  as  leader,  with  twelve  spare  ones,  to  relieve  every 
half  hour.  Our  party  numbered  sixteen  in  all,  including 
dragoman  and  cook,  with  eleven  camels,  laden  with  bag¬ 
gage,  tents,  instruments,  &c. ;  and  fifteen  Bedawin,  all 
13  K 


146 


BEAUTIFUL  SCENE. 


well  mounted,  the  followers  and  servants  of  the  Sherif  of 
Mecca  and  Sheikh  ’Akll  Aga  el  Hassee. 

Our  course  was  at  first  east  for  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and 
then  by  a  short  turn  to  S.  E.,  down  a  narrow  gorge. 
Through  this  we  found  it  impossible  to  drag  the  boats ; 
and  therefore,  deploying  to  the  left,  we  drew  them  to  the 
summit  of  an  overhanging  hill,  and  there,  taking  the 
camels  out,  lowered  them  down  by  hand.  It  was  an 
arduous  and,  at  times,  a  seemingly  impracticable  under¬ 
taking,  but  by  perseverance  we  succeeded. 

Passing  along  this  ravine,  in  a  south-easterly  direction, 
for  three-quarters  of  a  mile,  the  boats  rattling  and  tum¬ 
bling  along,  drawn  by  the  powerful  camel  trains,  we  came, 
at  9.30,  upon  a  branch  of  the  great  plain  of  Buttauf. 
The  metal  boats,  with  the  flags  flying,  mounted  on  car¬ 
riages  drawn  by  huge  camels,  ourselves,  the  mounted 
sailors  in  single  file,  the  loaded  camels,  the  sherif  and  the 
sheikh,  with  their  tufted  spears  and  followers,  presented 
a  glorious  sight.  It  looked  like  a  triumphal  march. 

The  sun  was  curtained,  but  not  screened,  from  the 
sight  by  the  ascending  vapour,  and  the  soft  wind  was 
wooing  nature  to  assume  her  green  and  fragrant  livery. 
The  young  grain,  vivified  by  the  heat,  sprang  up  in  pro¬ 
lific  growth,  and  carpeted  the  earth  with  its  refreshing 
verdure.  The  green  turf  of  the  uncultivated  patches  of 
the  plain,  and  the  verdant  slopes  of  the  hills,  were  lite¬ 
rally  enamelled  with  the  white  and  crimson  aster,  the 
pale  asphodel,  the  scarlet  anemone,  the  blue  and  purple 
convolvulus,  the  cyclamen,  with  flowers  so  much  resem¬ 
bling  the  eglantine  rose,  and  many  others  of  brilliant 
hues  and  fragrant  odours ;  while,  interspersed  here  and 
there  upon  the  hill-sides,  were  clumps  of  trees,  on  the 
branches  of  which  the  birds  were  singing,  in  the  soft  light 
of  an  early  spring  morning, — enjoying,  like  ourselves,  the 
balmy  air  and  smiling  landscape.  It  was  an  exquisite 


CARAVAN  OF  THE  EXPEDITION. 


— 


' 

. 


NAZARETH.  147 

scene,  and  elevated  tlie  mind,  while  it  gratified  the  love 
of  the  beautiful.  Surely, 

“  There  lives  and  works 
A  soul  in  all  things,  and  that  soul  is  God.” 

In  front  was  a  level  lake  of  verdure  and  cultivation,  and 
down  the  gentle  slope,  towards  its  basin,  our  long  caval¬ 
cade  wended  its  way,  —  officers  and  men  in  single  file, 
their  arms  glittering  in  the  sunlight,  and  the  wild  Arabs, 
with  their  lances  pointed  at  every  angle,  some  of  them 
mounted  upon  the  best  blood  of  Arabia,  seeming  impa¬ 
tient  at  the  slowness  of  the  march. 

Winding  around  a  green  hill,  tufted  with  oak,  we  came, 
at  10.15,  to  Khan  el  Dielil,  now  in  ruins,  with  an  excel¬ 
lent  well  beside  it.  A  few  hundred  yards  beyond,  we 
came  to  a  shallow  pond  of  water,  the  collection  of  winter 
rains,  where  we  stopped  to  water  the  caravan.  Here  we 
took  chronometer  observations,  —  having  to  remove  some 
distance,  in  consequence  of  the  vibration  caused  by  the 
movement  of  the  animals. 

From  this  ruined  khan,  across  the  plain,  bearing  south, 
cresting  a  lofty  hill,  was  the  castle  of  Sefurich  (Sepphoris) , 
the  Dio  Cesarea  of  the  Romans.  It  was,  for  some  time, 
the  successful  rival  of  Tiberias;  and,  in  the  12th  century, 
was  the  great  rendezvous  of  the  Crusaders,  before  the 
fatal  battle  of  Hattin.  There  is  a  tradition  among  the 
Arabs,  that  Moses  married  and  lived  here  twenty  years. 
Thence  south-east,  over  a  hill,  lay  Nazareth ,  but  three 
hours  distant  from  us.  How  we  grieved  that  our  duties 
prevented  us  from  visiting  a  place  which,  with  Bethlehem 
and  Calvary,  the  scenes  of  the  birth,  the  residence,  and 
the  death  of  the  Redeemer,  are  of  most  intense  interest 
to  the  Christian !  To  the  left,  almost  due  east,  one  hour 
distant,  lay  Cana  of  Galilee. 

Who  has  not,  in  thought,  accompanied  the  Saviour  to 
that  marriage-feast,  and  thanked  him  from  his  heart,  that 


148 


ARAB  EXERCISES. 


he  should  have  gladdened  with  his  presence  the  fleeting 
festivities  of  sinful  man,  and  that  his  first  miracle  should 
have  been,  to  all  succeeding  generations,  a  lesson  of  filial 
love ! 

Each  day,  some  of  the  sheriffs  or  the  sheikh’s  followers 
brought  us  a.  sheep  or  a  lamb  as  a  present,  for  which, 
however,  they  expected,  and  always  received,  a  fair 
equivalent.  In  doing  so,  they  placed  a  quiet  trust  in 
Providence  with  regard  to  the  payment,  for  which  they 
never  asked.  Where  the  value  of  things  is  so  well  ascer¬ 
tained  as  among  this  primitive  people,  how  much  better 
is  this  plan  than  a  higgling  bargain ! 

At  11  o’clock,  started  again, — our  route  E.  N.  E.  along 
the  plain ;  our  Arabs  caracoling  their  steeds,  and  giving 
us  specimens  of  their  beautiful  horsemanship,  —  plunging 
about  and  twirling  their  long  spears,  and  suddenly  couch¬ 
ing  them  in  full  career,  as  they  charged  upon  each  other. 
It  was  like  the  game  of  the  djerid,  of  which  we  had  all 
read  so  often,  except  that,  instead  of  the  short  blunted 
spear  of  pastime,  these  were  the  sharp-pointed  instruments 
of  warfare.  The  old  slierif  was  mounted  upon  a  splendid 
grey  mare,  worth  many  thousand  piastres,  and  wore  him¬ 
self  a  rich  cloth  cloak,  embroidered  with  silver.  Beautiful 
bay  mares  were  ridden  by  the  sheikh  and  his  followers ; 
among  the  last  were  two  jet-black  Nubians,  —  one  of 
them  of  Herculean  frame,  disfigured  by  several  scars. 

1,  P.  M.  Coming  to  a  broken  and  rocky  country,  we 
encountered  much  difficulty  with  the  boats.  At  first 
sight  it  seemed  impossible  that  the  ponderous  carriages 
could  be  drawn  over  such  a  rugged  road.  The  word  road 
means,  in  that  country,  a  mule-track.  Wheel-carriages 
had  never  crossed  it  before.  In  their  invasion  of  Syria, 
the  French  transported  their  guns  and  gun-carriages 
(taken  apart)  on  the  backs  of  camels,  over  the  lofty 
ridges,  and  mounted  them  again  upon  the  plain. 


WALLED  VILLAGE. 


149 


At  length,  making  a  detour  to  the  right,  breaking  off  a 
projecting  crag  here,  and  filling  up  a  hollow  there,  we 
got  the  boats  over  the  first  ridge.  It  was  shortly,  how¬ 
ever,  succeeded  by  another  and  another,  and  the  trains 
were  obliged  to  abandon  the  road  altogether.  Winding 
along  the  flanks  of  several  hills,  we  came,  at  2.30,  upon 
an  elevated  plain  of  cultivated  fields.  Turning  then 
more  to  the  north,  and  skirting  a  ridge  of  rocky  lime¬ 
stone,  we  gradually  ascended  a  slope  covered  with  olive 
orchards.  Presently  we  came  in  sight  of  Turan,  an  Arab 
village. 

In  our  acceptation  of  the  word,  a  village  means  a  num¬ 
ber  of  scattered  peasant  dwellings,  but  here  it  is  a  strong¬ 
hold  of  the  agricultural  population.  Since  leaving  Acre, 
we  had  not  seen  a  single  permanent  habitation  without 
these  walled  villages.  Turan  is  quite  a  fortification.  It 
is  small ;  the  houses  are  built  of*  uncut  and  uncemented 
stone,  with  flat  mud  roofs,  not  exceeding  one  story  in 
height.  Just  beyond  the  village,  over  the  brow  of  the 
hill,  we  pitched  our  tents  upon  the  outskirts  of  an  olive 
orchard.  In  the  plain,  immediately  beneath,  was  fought 
a  decisive  battle  between  the  Syrians  and  the  French. 
Mount  Tabor  bore  S.  S.  W.  We  were  in  the  lands  as¬ 
signed  to  the  tribe  of  Zebulon.  By  invitation,  I  accom¬ 
panied  Sherif  and  ’Akil  into  the  village,  and  smoked  a 
pipe  and  drank  coffee  with  its  sheikh,  who  wore  the 
graceful  and  becoming  turban.  But  for  his  costume,  he 
would,  in  our  country,  pass  for  a  genteel  negro,  of  the 
cross  between  the  mulatto  and  the  black.  In  order  to 
economize  time  and  provisions,  and  to  prepare  us  for  the 
endurance  of  future  privations,  I  had  from  the  first  re¬ 
stricted  the  whole  party  to  two  meals  a  day — one  early 
in  the  morning,  before  starting,  the  other  when  we  had 
camped  for  the  night.  There  was  not  an  objection  or  a 
murmur. 

13  * 


150 


AN  ARAB  REPAST. 


While  at  supper,  Dr.  Anderson  joined  us.  On  liis  way 
to  Acre,  he  had,  from  a  height,  seen  the  expedition  mov¬ 
ing  along  the  plain.  He  described  it  as  a  beautiful  sight. 

The  sheikh  of  the  village  punctually  returned  my  visit, 
and  was  duly  regaled  with  pipes  and  coffee.  He  seemed 
to  prefer  our  tobacco  to  his  own.  In  the  evening  we 
went  down  to  the  tent  of  our  Arabs,  pitched  a  short  dis¬ 
tance  from  us,  with  their  horses  tethered  near  and  neigh¬ 
ing  loudly.  What  a  patriarchal  scene  !  Seated  upon 
their  mats  and  cushions  within,  we  looked  out  upon  the 
lire,  around  which  were  gathered  groups  of  this  wild  peo¬ 
ple,  who  continually  reminded  us  of  our  Indians.  Then 
came  their  supper,  consisting  of  a  whole  sheep,  entombed 
in  rice,  which  they  pitched  into  without  knives  or  forks, 
in  the  most  amusing  manner.  There  was  an  Arab  bard 
withal,  who  twanged  away  upon  his  instrument,  and  sung 
or  rather  chanted  mysterious  Arabic  poetry.  He  will 
never 

u  Make  a  swan-like  end, 

Fading  in  music.” 

We  had  ascended  upwards  of  1500  feet,  which,  better 
than  any  description,  will  give  an  idea  of  the  steepness, 
but  not  of  the  ruggedness,  of  the  road  since  we  left  the 
plain  of  Acre.  To-morrow  we  may  reach  the  Sea  of  Gali¬ 
lee  !  Inshallah ! 

Thursday,  April  6.  A  beautiful  morning,  wind  light 
and  weather  very  pleasant.  As,  in  consequence  of  great 
impediments,  the  boats  moved  but  slowly,  we  started  with 
them  at  an  early  hour.  At  11,  the  camp  followed  us. 
Nothing  could  be  more  picturesque  than  the  appearance 
of  our  cavaliers  of  the  desert,  when  they  rejoined  us, 
mounted  on  their  spirited  steeds,  with  their  long  spears 
and  flowing  garments  of  every  variety  of  hue. 

At  first  our  course  was  east,  down  a  long  descent,  and 
thence  over  the  undulations  of  a  rolling  plain.  At  1 


MAGNIFICENT  SLOPES. 


151 


P.  M.,  reached  a  large  artificial  reservoir,  with  an  area 
of  about  three  acres,  partly  filled  with  rain-water,  where 
we  stopped  fifteen  minutes.  Our  friends,  who  had  pre¬ 
ceded  us  and  Sherif,  with  one  of  his  followers,  had  gone 
aside  to  perform  their  devotions  in  a  field  apart. 

While  at  this  fountain,  wishing  to  take  some  bearings, 
one  of  our  swarthy  friends,  in  the  most  graceful  and 
polite  manner,  held  my  horse,  and  otherwise  assisted  me. 
Thus  far  these  terrible  Arabs  had  conducted  themselves 
like  gentlemen.  In  courtesy,  civilization  could  not  im¬ 
prove  them. 

At  1.45  we  passed  immediately  north  of  the  village  of 
Lubieh,  differing  only  in  its  less  conspicuous  position 
from  Turan  and  Abelin.  Our  Arabs  rode  into  the  vil¬ 
lage,  but  I  declined  the  invitation  to  coffee,  and  kept  on 
with  the  cavalcade. 

Since  leaving  the  olive  groves  of  Turan  we  had  not 
seen  a  tree  or  a  bush,  except  on  the  hill-sides  of  Lu¬ 
bieh  ; .  yet  the  whole  surface  of  the  valley  was  dotted 
with  unenclosed  fields  of  growing  grain,  and  carpeted 
with  green. 

We  continued  rising  until,  at  2.25,  we  opened  on  our 
right  a  magnificent  crater-like  series  of  slopes,  with  a  bare 
glimpse  of  the  Sea  of  Galilee  and  the  mountains  of  Ba- 
slian  beyond.  These  slopes  are  fields  of  grain,  divided 
into  rectangles  of  different  hues  and  different  stages  of 
growth.  Besides  these,  were  patches  of  flowers  scattered 
about, — here  the  scarlet  anemone,  there  the  blue  convol¬ 
vulus; — but  the  gentle  and  luxuriant  slopes  looked  like 
mosaic,  with  a  prevailing  purple  tinge,  the  hue  of  the 
thorny  shrub  merar.  On  our  route  thus  far  the  pre¬ 
vailing  rock  has  been  limestone,  but  since  leaving  Lu¬ 
bieh  we  have  seen  several  nodules  of  quartz,  and  much 
trap,  totally  destitute  of  minerals.  The  prevailing  flowei 
is  the  convolvulus,  from  the  root  of  which  scammony  is 


152 


THE  SEA  OF  GALILEE. 


said  to  be  extracted.  Ragged  peasants  were  ploughing 
in  the  fields ;  but  not  a  tree,  not  a  house.  Mount  Tabor 
now  bore  due  south. 

Pursuing  the  route  along  the  northern  ridge  of  this 
valley,  in  half  an  hour  we  came  to  a  fountain,  on  the 
high  road  from  Jerusalem  to  Damascus.  Some  Christian 
pilgrims,  from  the  latter  to  the  former  place,  were  seated 
around  it ;  their  tired  horses,  with  drooping  heads,  wait¬ 
ing  their  turn  to  drink.  Soon  after  leaving  them,  a  small 
party  passed  us ;  among  them,  the  only  pretty  female  we 
had  seen  in  Palestine  :  a  young  Syrian  girl,  with  smooth 
bronze  skin  and  regular  features. 

Unable  to  restrain  my  impatience,  I  now  rode  ahead 
with  Mustafa,  and  soon  saw  below,  far  down  the  green 
sloping  chasm,  the  Sea  of  Galilee,  basking  in  the  sun¬ 
light  !  Like  a  mirror  it  lay  embosomed  in  its  rounded  and 
beautiful,  but  treeless  hills.  How  dear  to  the  Christian 
are  the  memories  of  that  lake  !  The  lake  of  the  New 
Testament !  Blessed  beyond  the  nature  of  its  element,  it 
has  borne  the  Son  of  God  upon  its  surface.  Its  cliffs  first 
echoed  the  glad  tidings  of  salvation,  and  from  its  villages 
the  first  of  the  apostles  were  gathered  to  the  ministry. 
Its  placid  water  and  its  shelving  beach ;  the  ruined  cities 
once  crowded  with  men,  and  the  everlasting  hills,  the 
handiwork  of  God, — all  identify  and  attest  the  wonderful 
miracles  that  were  here  performed — miracles,  the  least  of 
which  was  a  crowning  act  of  mercy  of  an  Incarnate  God 
towards  his  sinful  and  erring  creatures. 

The  roadside  and  the  uncultivated  slopes  of  the  hills 
were  full  of  flowers,  and  abounded  with  singing  birds  — 
and  there  lay  the  holy  lake,  consecrated  by  the  presence 
of  the  Redeemer !  How  could  travellers  describe  the 
scenery  of  this  lake  as  tame  and  uninteresting  ?  It  far 
exceeded  my  most  sanguine  expectations,  and  I  could 
scarce  realize  that  I  was  there.  Near  by  was  the  field, 


MOUNT  OF  BEATITUDES.  153 

where,  according  to  tradition,  the  disciples  plucked  the 
ears  of  corn  upon  the  sabbath.  Yet  nearer  was  the  spot 
where  the  Saviour  fed  the  famishing  multitude ;  and  to 
the  left  the  Mount  of  Beatitudes,  where  he  preached  his 
wonderful  compend  of  wisdom  and  love.  At  its  foot,  as 
if  to  show  how  little  man  regards  the  precepts  of  his 
Maker,  was  fought  one  of  the  most  dreadful  battles  re¬ 
corded  on  the  page  of  history.  I  neither  put  implicit 
faith  in,  nor  yet,  in  a  cavilling  spirit,  question  the  local¬ 
ities  of  these  traditions.  Unhappy  is  that  man,  who,  in¬ 
stead  of  being  impressed  with  awe,  or  exultant  with  the 
thought  that  he  is  permitted  to  look  upon  such  scenes, 
withholds  his  homage,  and  stifles  every  grateful  aspiration 
with  querulous  questionings  of  exact  identities.  Away 
with  such  hard-hearted  scepticism  —  so  nearly  allied  to 
infidelity !  What  matters  it,  whether  in  this  field  or  an 
adjoining  one  —  on  this  mount,  or  another  more  or  less 
contiguous  to  it,  the  Saviour  exhorted,  blessed,  or  fed  his 
followers  ?  The  very  stones,  each  a  sermon,  cry  shame 
upon  such  a  captious  spirit  —  a  spirit  too  often  indulged, 
not  in  the  sincerity  of  unbelief,  but  to  parade  historical 
or  biblical  lore. 

Not  a  tree !  not  a  shrub !  nothing  but  green  grain, 
grass  and  flowers,  yet  acres  of  bright  verdure.  Far  up  on 
a  mountain-top  stands  conspicuous  the  “holy  city”  of 
Safed,  the  ancient  Japhet.  Nearer  is  the  well  into  which 
Joseph  was  put  by  his  brethren.  Beyond  the  lake  and 
over  the  mountains,  rise  majestic  in  the  clear  sky  the 
snowy  peaks  of  Mount  Hermon.  We  descended  the  steep 
hill  towards  the  lake.  How  in  the  world  are  the  boats 
ever  to  be  got  down  this  rocky  and  precipitous  path,  when 
we  are  compelled  to  alight  and  lead  our  horses  ?  From 
Acre  to  this  place,  we  have  dragged  the  boats  along  a 
series  of  valleys  and  ridges,  but  from  hence  there  is  a 
sheer  descent.  This  difficulty  overcome,  we  shall  only 


154 


TIBERIAS. 


have  our  own  familiar  element  to  deal  with.  We  shall, 
therefore,  have  to  brace  ourselves  to  a  desperate  effort. 

The  boats  could  come  no  farther  than  the  fountain, 
where  the  trains  stopped  for  the  night.  Along  the  ele¬ 
vated  plain  the  trap  formation  made  its  appearance  in 
scattered  fragments,  covering  the  brown  soil ;  large  boul¬ 
ders  then  succeeded,  and  on  the  shore  enormous  masses 
crop-out  in  the  ravines.  Winding  down  the  rugged  road, 
we  descended  to  the  city,  seated  on  the  margin  of  the 
lake.  Tiberias  (Tubariyeh)  is  a  walled  town  of  some 
magnitude,  but  in  ruins,  from  the  earthquake  which,  in 
1837,  destroyed  so  many  of  its  inhabitants.  Not  a  house 
nor  a  tree  without  the  walls,  yet  cultivated  fields  behind 
and  beside  them.  On  an  esplanade,  a  short  distance  from 
the  dismantled  gateway,  were  the  tents  of  a  small  detach¬ 
ment  of  Turkish  soldiers. 

Safed  and  Tiberias,  Jerusalem  and  Hebron,  are  the  four 
holy  cities  of  the  Jews  in  Palestine.  Tiberias  is  held  in 
peculiar  veneration  by  the  Jews,  for  here  they  believe 
that  Jacob  resided,  and  it  is  situated  on  the  shores  of 
the  lake  whence  they  hope  that  the  Messiah  will  arise. 
In  Robinson’s  elaborate  work,  is  an  accurate  account  of  it. 

Turning  to  the  south,  leaving  behind  us  a  beautiful 
concave  slope,  consecrated  by  tradition  for  the  miraculous 
draught  of  fishes,  we  entered  the  northern  half-ruined 
portal  of  the  town. 

We  were  yet  in  the  land  of  Zebulon ;  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  lake  are  the  lands  of  the  tribe  of  Manasseh. 

It  being  necessary  to  adjust  and  fix  the  rate  of  our 
instruments,  we  rented  part  of  a  house  in  town, — many 
being  proffered  for  our  accommodation, — indicative  alike 
of  the  hospitality  of  the  people  and  the  unprosperous  con¬ 
dition  of  the  place.  We  had  letters  to  the  chief  rabbi  of 
the  Jews,  who  came  to  meet  us,  and  escorted  us  through 
labyrinthine  streets  to  the  house  of  Ileim  Wiseman,  a 


TOWN  OF  TIBERIAS. 


OUR  DOMICIL. 


155 

brother  Israelite.  It  is  an  hotel  sui  generis,  as  well  in 
the  mode  of  entertaining  as  in  the  subsequent  settlement 
with  its  guests.  In  a  book  which  was  shown  to  us  we 
read  the  following  gentle  insinuation  : — “  I  beg  the  gen¬ 
tlemen  arriving  at  my  house  that,  at  their  departure, 
they  will  have  the  goodness  to  give  me,  in  my  hands, 
what  they  please.  Tibaria,  April  7,  1845.”  The  above 
is  an  exact  copy  of  the  notice  referred  to,  in  English.  It 
is  likewise  written  in  bad  Italian  and  worse  Spanish. 

Sherif  and  ’Akil  turned  up  as  if  by  magic.  Here  they 
were  before  us,  although  they  stopped  at  Lubiyeh,  and 
we  did  not  see  them  pass  us  on  the  road.  Nothing  but 
their  kind  feelings  towards  us  could  have  induced  them 
to  enter  the  house  of  a  Jew.  They  received  three  rabbis, 
who  came  to  see  us,  with  much  respect,  and  greeted  their 
own  Muslim  visitors  with  the  true  oriental  embrace. 
The  governor,  who  was  a  relative  of  ’Akil,  was  among 
the  first  who  called. 

There  was  no  doubt  of  the  high  standing  of  Sherif  and 
his  nej)hew,  Sherif  Musaid,  a  much  younger  and  very 
prepossessing  Arab,  who  had  recently  joined  us.  The 
governor  was  a  small  intelligent  Arab,  with  a  dark  Egyp¬ 
tian  complexion.  Our  friends  soon  left  us  to  quarter 
upon  him. 

Our  sailors  were  delighted  with  the  novelty  of  having 
a  roof  above  them,  and  we  all  felt  relieved  in  no  longer 
hearing  the  shrill  and  vociferous  screams  of  the  camel- 
drivers, — the  noisiest  of  the  children  of  men.  Our  saloon 
looked  out  upon  the  lake.  It  has  mere  apertures  in  its 
blank  walls  for  doors  and  windows.  A  number  of  swal¬ 
lows,  regardless  of  our  presence,  flitted  in  and  out,  busied 
in  the  construction  of  their  nests  amid  the  sustaining 
rafters  of  the  mud  roof.  The  windows  might  have  been, 
but,  from  an  error  in  its  construction,  the  door  could  not 
be,  closed. 


156 


LAKE  OF  TIBERIAS. 


We  had  fish,  delicious  fish  from  the  lake,  for  our  supper, 
which  we  ate  in  thankfulness,  although  we  knew  that  we 
should  pay  for  it  in  flesh,  —  for  the  king  of  the  fleas,  it  is 
said,  holds  his  court  in  Tiberias. 

Our  apartment,  which  was  at  once  our  parlour,  eating- 
room,  and  chamber,  was  the  rendezvous  of  the  .curious, 
and,  it  seemed  to  us,  also,  of  all  the  Arab  camel  and 
mule-drivers  in  the  town.  We  were  surrounded  by 
a  motley  assembly  of  all  classes,  standing,  sitting,  or 
reclining  in  democratic  disregard  of  all  rank  or  distinc¬ 
tion,  and  looking  with  amazement,  not  unmingled  with 
mirth,  at  our  strange  and  elaborate  mode  of  eating. 

Our  instruments  were  uninjured,  notwithstanding  the 
ruggedness  of  the  road,  and  we  fitted  them  up  in  a  sepa¬ 
rate  room,  preparatory  to  a  series  of  observations ;  and 
then,  wearied  but  gratified,  laid  down  to  sleep. 

Friday,  April  7.  The  beams  of  the  rising  sun,  reflected 
from  the  lake,  were  dancing  about  on  the  walls  of  the 
apartment  when  we  awoke.  A  light  breeze  ruffled  its 
surface,  which 

“  Broke  into  dimples,  and  laughed  in  the  sun.” 

There  was  a  silence  of  some  moments,  as  we  looked  forth 
upon  it,  and  the  mind  of  each  no  doubt  recurred  to  the 
time  when  an  angry  wind  swept  across,  and  the  Apostle 
of  wavering  faith  cried,  “  Lord,  save  me,  or  I  perish !  ” 

Our  first  thought  was  for  the  boats ;  but,  notwithstand¬ 
ing  the  utmost  exertions,  at  sunset  they  were  only  brought 
to  the  brink  of  the  high  and  precipitous  range  which  over¬ 
looked  the  lake  from  the  west. 

In  the  course  of  the  day,  I  returned  the  visit  of  the 
governor.  Tie  received  me  in  a  large  room,  opening  on  a 
small  court,  with  a  divan  in  a  recess  opposite  to  the  door. 

Justice  was  administered  with  all  the  promptitude  and 
simplicity  of  the  East.  On  my  way,  I  had  been  exaspe¬ 
rated  almost  to  the  point  of  striking  him,  by  a  half-grown 


THRALDOM  OF  THE  JEWS 


157 


boy  beating  an  elderly  woman,  who  proved  to  be  his 
mother.  The  latter  made  her  complaint  shortly  after  my 
entrance.  The  case  was  fairly  but  briefly  examined  by 
the  governor  in  person,  and  in  a  few  words  the  sentence 
was  pronounced.  From  the  countenance  of  the  culprit, 
as  he  was  led  forth,  I  felt  satisfied  that  he  was  on  his 
way  to  a  well-merited  punishment. 

Another  woman  complained  that  her  husband  had 
beaten  her.  In  this,  as  in  the  previous  case,  the  com¬ 
plainant  directly  addressed  the  governor.  The  husband 
seemed  to  be  a  man  of  influence,  and  the  trial  was  some¬ 
what  protracted.  The  evidence  was  clear  against  him, 
however,  and  he  was  made  publicly  to  kiss  her  forehead, 
where  he  had  struck  her. 

A  trifling  circumstance  will  show  in  what  thraldom  the 
Jews  are  held.  Our  landlord,  Heim  Wiseman,  had  been 
kind  enough  to  show  me  the  way  to  the  governor’s.  On 
our  entrance,  he  meekly  sat  down  on  the  floor,  some  dis¬ 
tance  from  the  divan.  After  the  sherbet  was  handed 
round  to  all,  including  many  dirty  Arabs,  it  was  tendered 
to  him.  It  was  a  rigid  fast-day  with  his  tribe,  the  eve  of 
the  feast  of  the  azymes,  and  he  declined  it.  It  was  again 
tendered,  and  again  declined,  when  the  attendant  made 
some  exclamation,  which  reached  the  ears  of  the  governor, 
who  thereupon  turned  abruptly  round,  and  sharply  called 
out,  “  Drink  it.”  The  poor  Jew,  agitated  and  trembling, 
carried  it  to  his  lips,  where  he  held  it  for  a  moment, 
when,  perceiving  the  attention  of  the  governor  to  be 
diverted,  he  put  down  the  untasted  goblet. 

On  our  return,  Mr.  Wiseman  led  me  to  a  vaulted  chapel 
dedicated  to  St.  Peter,  built  on  the  traditionary  spot  of 
one  of  the  miracles  of  our  Lord.  Strange  that  a  Jew 
should  point  out  to  a  Christian  the  place  where  the  Mes¬ 
siah,  whom  the  first  denies  and  the  last  believes  in,  estab¬ 
lished  his  church  upon  a  rock. 

14 


158 


TURKISH  TYRANNY. 


The  Jews  here  are  divested  of  that  spirit  of  trade  which 
is  everywhere  else  their  peculiar  characteristic.  Their 
sole  occupation,  we  were  told,  is  to  pray  and  to  read  the 
Talmud.  That  book,  Burckhardt  says,  declares  that  cre¬ 
ation  will  return  to  primitive  chaos  if  prayers  are  not 
addressed  to  the  God  of  Israel  at  least  twice  a  week  in 
the  four  holy  cities.  Hence  the  Jews  all  over  the  world 
are  liberal  in  their  contributions. 

Returned  the  visit  of  the  Rabbis.  They  have  two  syn¬ 
agogues,  the  Sephardim  and  Askeniazim,  but  live  harmo¬ 
niously  together.  There  are  many  Polish  Jews,  with 
light  complexions,  among  them.  They  describe  them¬ 
selves  as  very  poor,  and  maintained  by  the  charitable 
contributions  of  Jews  abroad,  mostly  in  Europe.  More 
meek,  subdued,  and  unpretending  men  than  these  Rabbis 
I  have  never  seen.  The  chief  one  illustrated  the  tyranny 
of  the  Turks  by  a  recent  circumstance.  In  consequence 
of  the  drought  of  the  preceding  year  there  had  been  a 
failure  of  the  crops,  and  the  Sultan,  whose  disposition  is 
humane,  ordered  a  large  quantity  of  grain  to  be  distri¬ 
buted  among  the  fellahin  for  seed.  The  latter  were  ac¬ 
cordingly  called  in ;  —  to  him  whose  portion  was  twenty 
okes*  was  given  ten,  and  to  him  whose  portion  was  ten, 
five  okes  were  given,  —  after  each  had  signed  a  paper 
acknowledging  the  receipt  of  the  greater  quantity.  How 
admirably  the  scriptures  portray  the  manners  and  cus¬ 
toms  of  the  east !  Here  is  the  verification  of  the  parable 
of  the  unjust  steward.  It  is  true,  that  in  this  instance 
the  decree  was  issued  by  the  Turks  —  a  comparatively 
modern  people,  —  but  it  was  carried  into  effect  by  the  de¬ 
scendants  of  the  ancient  Gentile  races  of  the  country. 

In  the  evening  we  visited  several  of  the  synagogues. 
It  was  impressive  yet  melancholy  to  witness  the  fervid 


*  An  oke  is  about  two  and  three-quarter  pounds. 


JEWISH  FEMALE  COSTUME.  159 

zeal  of  the  worshippers.  In  gabardines,  with  broad  and 
narrow  phylacteries,  some  of  them  embroidered,  the  men 
were  reading  or  rather  chanting,  or  rather  screaming  and 
shouting,  the  lamentations  of  Jeremias  —  all  the  time 
swaying  their  bodies  to  and  fro  with  a  regular  and  mono¬ 
tonous  movement.  There  was  an  earnest  expression  of 
countenance  that  could  not  have  been  feigned.  The 
tones  of  the  men  were  loud  and  almost  querulous  with 
complaint ;  while  the  women,  who  stood  apart,  were  more 
hushed  in  their  sorrow,  and  lowly  wailed,  moving  the  heart 
by  their  sincerity.  In  each  synagogue  was  an  octagon 
recess,  where  the  Pentateuch  and  other  sacred  works 
were  kept.  Whatever  they  may  be  in  worldly  matters, 
the  Jews  are  no  hypocrites  in  the  article  of  faith. 

The  females  marry  very  early.  There  was  one  in  the 
house,  then  eleven  and  a  half  years  of  age,  who,  we  were 
assured,  had  been  married  eighteen  months.  Mr.  Wise¬ 
man  pointed  out  another,  a  mere  child  in  appearance,  ten 
years  of  age,  who  had  been  two  years  married.  It  seems 
incredible.  The  unmarried  wear  the  hair  exposed,  but 
the  married  women  studiously  conceal  it.  To  make  up 
for  it,  the  heads  of  the  latter  were  profusely  ornamented 
with  coins  and  gems  and  any  quantity  of  another’s  hair, 
the  prohibition  only  extending  to  their  own.  Their  dress 
is  a  boddice,  a  short,  narrow-skirted  gown,  and  pantalettes 
gathered  at  the  ankles.  Unlike  the  Turkish  and  the 
Arab  women,  they  sometimes  wear  stockings.  The  bod¬ 
dice  is  open  in  front,  and  the  breasts  are  held,  but  not 
restrained,  by  loose  open  pockets  of  thin  white  gauze. 

There  are  about  three  hundred  families,  or  one  thou¬ 
sand  Jews,  in  this  town.  The  sanhedrim  consists  of 
seventy  rabbis,  of  whom  thirty  are  natives  and  forty 
Franks,  mostly  from  Poland,  with  a  few  from  Spain. 
The  rabbis  stated  that  controversial  matters  of  discipline 


160 


A  BU  YUEULDI. 


among  Jews,  all  over  the  world,  are  referred  to  this 
sanhedrim. 

Besides  the  Jews,  there  are  in  Tiberias  from  three  to 
four  hundred  Muslims  and  two  or  three  Latins,  from 
Nazareth. 

P.  M.  Received  an  express  with  letters  from  Jerusalem. 
Among  them  is  a  firman,  or  buyuruldi,  from  the  Pasha, 
which  I  transcribe  as  a  curiosity. 

u  Translation  of  Buyuruldi, 
from  the  Pasha  of  Jerusalem. 

6  April,  1848. 

u  Observe  what  is  written  in  this,  all  ye  who  stand  and 
see  it,  by  the  sheiks  and  elders  of  the  Arabs  and  keepers 
of  the  highways :  let  it  be  known  to  you  openly,  according 
to  this  buyuruldi,  that  fifteen  of  the  honourable  persons 
of  the  government  of  America  desire  to  depart  from  this 
to  the  Sea  of  Lot  and  thereabouts,  there  to  take  boats  and 
go  down  into  the  above-mentioned  sea.  And  accordingly, 
as  it  was  necessary,  we  have  drawn  this,  our  buyuruldi,  to 
you ;  and  it  is  necessary  for  you,  0  ye  that  are  spoken 
to,  that  to  the  above  persons,  at  their  passing  your  dis¬ 
tricts,  you  do  all  that  you  can  for  their  comfort,  and  let 
no  one  annoy  them — but  care  and  protection  is  required 
for  them ;  and  if  they  are  in  want  of  food  or  other  things 
for  price,  or  animals  for  hire,  you  are  to  supply  them 
And  if  God  please,  no  more  command  is  wanting ;  but  to 
the  persons  that  are  here  mentioned,  by  all  means  give 
comfort ;  and  for  this  reason  we  have  drawn  for  you  this 
buyuruldi  from  the  divan  of  the  honorable  Jerusalem, 
Nablus,  and  Gaza.  So  by  this  ye  may  know,  according 
to  what  is  written,  ye  are  not  to  do  the  contrary.  Know 
and  beware,  and  know  according  to  what  is  herein,  and 
avoid  the  contrary. 

u  Translated  by  Moses  Tanoos, 

British  Consulate. 

Jerusalem.” 


THE  WAVE  OF  REVOLUTION.  161 

Mr.  Pennock  wrote  me  that  Mr.  Finn,  H.  B.  M.  consul, 
has  been  very  active  and  friendly,  and  I  feel  that  we  are 
much  indebted  to  him.  Our  landlord  was  with  poor  Cos- 
tigan,  just  prior  to  his  attempt  to  circumnavigate  the 
Dead  Sea.  From  him,  and  from  an  Arab  boatman,  we 
received  an  account  of  the  attack  upon  the  boat  of 
Lieutenant  Molyneux,  his  pursuit  by  the  Arabs,  and 
subsequent  death.  Poor  fellows !  If  God  spare  us,  we 
will  commemorate  their  gallantry  and  their  devotion  to 
the  cause  of  science. 

The  express  from  Jerusalem  was  a  Janissary,  sent  by 
the  Pasha,  with  four  soldiers.  In  the  firm  belief  that  we 
should  not  need  them,  I  paid  them  and  directed  them  to 
return.  Our  Bedawin  friends  served  as  videttes,  to 
apprise  us  of  danger.  It  was  only  ambuscades  we  feared. 

Saturday,  April  8.  A  beautiful,  calm  morning.  Quiet 
as  a  sleeping  infant,  the  lake  lay  in  the  lap  of  its  lofty 
hills.  Received  an  express  from  Acre,  with  letters. 
They  brought  intelligence  of  revolutions  in  Europe. 

“It  is  the  low  booming  of  that  mighty  ocean,  which, 
wave  after  wave,  is  breaking  up  the  dikes  and  boundaries 
of  ancient  power.”  The  spirit  of  revolution  is  abroad. 
It  stands  upon  the  grave  of  the  past.  As  our  beautiful 
institutions  took  life  and  vigour  from  the  first  breathings 
of  this  spirit,  we  feel  deeply  interested  in  its  nature  and 
tendency.  It  engages  all  our  affections,  it  awakens  all 
our  sympathies.  It  is  the  cause  of  the  universe  —  it  is 
the  voice  of  the  great  family  of  nations,  which  is  coming 
up  from  the  four  winds  to  proclaim  change  and  reforma¬ 
tion  among  the  sons  of  the  children  of  men.  It  is,  per¬ 
haps,  the  last  of  the  Sibylline  volumes,  containing  new 
truths,  burthened  with  the  ripening  destinies  of  man. 

u  Man  is  one ! 

And  he  hath  one  great  heart. 

14  *  L 


162 


OUR  BOATS  LAUNCHED. 


It  is  thus  we  feel,  with  a  gigantic  throb  across  the  sea. 

Each  other’s  rights  and  wrongs  !” 

Heaven  speed  the  cause  of  freedom ! 

Took  all  hands  up  the  mountain  to  bring  the  boats 
down.  Many  times  we  thought  that,  like  the  herd  of 
swine,  they  would  rush  precipitately  into  the  sea.  Every 
one  did  his  best,  and  at  length  success  crowned  our 
efforts.  With  their  flags  flying,  we  carried  them  trium¬ 
phantly  beyond  the  walls  uninjured,  and,  amid  a  crowd 
of  spectators,  launched  them  upon  the  blue  waters  of  the 
Sea  of  Galilee  —  the  Arabs  singing,  clapping  their  hands 
to  the  time,  and  crying  for  backshish  —  but  we  neither 
shouted  nor  cheered.  From  Christian  lips  it  would  have 
sounded  like  profanation.  A  look  upon  that  consecrated 
lake  ever  brought  to  remembrance  the  words,  “  Peace !  be 
still !” — which  not  only  repressed  all  noisy  exhibition,  but 
soothed  for  a  time  all  worldly  care. 

Buoyantly  floated  the  two  66  Fannies,”  bearing  the  stars 
and  stripes,  the  noblest  flag  of  freedom  now  waving  in 
the  world.  Since  the  time  of  Josephus  and  the  Romans, 
no  vessel  of  any  size  has  sailed  upon  this  sea,  and  for 
many,  many  years,  but  a  solitary  keel  has  furrowed  its 
surface. 

Sunday,  April  9.  Another  glorious  morning.  Rose 
early  and  went  to  the  hot  baths  southward  of  the  town, 
near  the  ruins  of  Emmaus,  fitted  up  by  Ibrahim  Pasha 
when  Syria  was  in  possession  of  the  Egyptians.  The 
road  runs  along  the  sea-beach,  upon  which  also  the  baths 
are  situated.  On  the  way  we  passed  some  prostrate 
columns,  and  broken  arches,  and  vestiges  of  ruins  half 
concealed  beneath  mounds  of  earth  and  rank  vegetation. 
These  are  no  doubt  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  city  of  Tibe¬ 
rias,  the  present  site  of  the  town  being  a  more  modern 
one.  A  short  distance  back,  the  rugged  face  of  the  brown 
mountains,  with  here  and  there  a  yawning  cavern,  over- 


HOT  BATHS. 


163 


looked  the  narrow  plain  and  pellucid  sea.  Now  and  then 
a  splash  of  the  water  indicated  the  gambollings  of  fish 
beneath  the  surface,  while  above,  the  fish-hawk  sailed 
slowly  along,  ready  for  a  swoop,  and  just  out  of  gun-shot 
a  flock  of  wild  ducks  were  swimming  along  in  conscious 
security. 

There  are  two  baths  —  the  old  one,  all  in  ruins  —  and 
the  one  to  the  north  of  it,  now  in  use.  In  a  square 
vaulted  chamber  is  a  circular  basin  about  eighteen  feet  in 
diameter  and  four  feet  in  depth.  The  temperature  of  the 
water  is  143°,  almost  too  hot  for  endurance.  It  is  only  by 
slow  degrees  that  the  body  can  be  immersed  in  it.  We 
procured  some  of  it  for  analysis.  It  is  salt,  bitter,  and 
has  the  nauseous  smell  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen.  There 
are  several  other  springs  in  their  natural  condition,  which 
discolour  the  stones  as  they  flow  to  the  sea.  It  is  said 
that  these  baths  are  much  resorted  to  in  the  summer 
months,  particularly  by  rheumatic  patients.  It  is  Hum¬ 
boldt,  I  believe,  who  remarks  that  in  all  climates  people 
show  the  same  predeliction  for  heat.  In  Iceland  the  first 
Christian  converts  would  be  baptized  only  in  the  tepid 
streams  of  Hecla ;  and  in  the  torrid  zone,  the  natives 
flock  from  all  parts  to  the  thermal  waters. 

In  all  this  luxuriant  plain,  which  might  be  a  perfect 
garden,  there  were  only  some  cucumber  and  melon  beds 
and  fields  of  millet.  The  melons  of  this  valley,  according 
to  Burckhardt,  are  celebrated  all  over  the  east.  On  the 
slope  of  the  hill  towards  the  north,  some  kersenna  was 
growing  —  a  small  hard  pea  resembling  a  large  radish 
seed — the  husk  dark  brown,  the  kernel  a  deep  pink  colour, 
the  taste  sweet.  It  is  raised  almost  exclusively  for  the 
camel.  We  saw  no  cattle.  Camels,  horses,  mules  and 
goats  were  the  only  four-footed  animals  to  be  seen. 

P.  M.  We  pulled  up  the  lake,  and  visited  Mejdel,  on 
the  plain  of  Genesareth.  It  must  have  been  a  singular 


164 


MEJDEL,  OR  MAGDALA. 

sight  from  the  shore, —  our  beautiful  boats,  the  crews,  in 
man-of-war  rig,  with  snow-white  awnings  spread,  and 
their  ensigns  flying,  the  men  keeping  time  with  their  oars, 
as  we  rowed  along  the  green  shores  of  the  silent  sea  of 
Galilee  !  Pulling  to  the  shore,  we  inquired  the  name  of 
the  place,  of  a  fellah  who  was  watering  his  donkey.  His 
reply  was,  “  Mejdel.”  This  is  the  ancient  Magdala,  the 
birth-place  of  Mary  Magdalen,  and  was  once  visited  by 
our  Saviour.  We  were  coming  in  closer,  and  yet  closer, 
contiguity  to  sacred  scenes.  On  our  way  from  Beirut  to 
Haifa,  we  had  passed  the  ruins  of  Tyre,  where  the  Saviour 
yielded  to  the  importunities  of  the  Canaanitish  woman, 
and  healed  her.  Passing  between  Nazareth  and  Cana, 
and  approaching  this  lake,  we  looked  at  them  from  a 
distance,  but  here  we  were  upon  their  threshold.  I  do 
not  know  what  was  passing  in  the  minds  of  others,  but 
I  felt  myself  all  unworthy  to  tread  upon  the  consecrated 
spot.  Instead  of  landing,  we  pulled  a  short  distance  from 
the  shore,  and,  lying  upon  the  oars,  looked  in  silence 
upon  the  scene. 

Mejdel  is  now  a  poor  village  of  about  forty  families,  all 
fellahin.  The  houses,  like  those  of  Turan,  are  of  rough 
stone,  with  flat  mud  roofs.  Above  it  are  high  hills,  with 
rounded  faces  to  the  north-east,  and  perpendicular  preci¬ 
pices  behind,  presenting  a  stratified  appearance.  In  the 
face  of  the  precipice  are  many  caverns,  whether  natural 
or  artificial,  from  this  distance  we  could  not  tell.*  In 
these  caverns,  it  was  said  that  a  hand  of  robbers  once 
fortified  themselves,  and  were  with  difficulty  expelled. 
Josephus  states  that  the  assailants  were  lowered  down  in 
chests  from  the  summit  to  the  mouths  of  the  caverns. 
While  pulling  about  the  lake,  a  squall  swept  down  one  of 

*  Burckhardt,  who  visited  them,  says  that  they  are  natural,  but  united 
together  by  artificial  passages.  He  estimates  that  they  would  shelter  about 
GOO  men. 


FISH  IN  THE  SEA  OF  GALILEE.  165 

the  ravines,  and  gave  us  a  convincing  proof  how  soon  the 
placid  sea  could  assume  an  angry  look. 

We  had  not  time  to  survey  the  lake, — the  advancing 
season,  and  the  lessening  flood  in  the  Jordan,  warning  us 
to  lose  no  time.  We  deferred  making  the  necessary  ob¬ 
servations,  therefore,  until  our  return.  The  bottom  is  a 
concave  basin, — -the  greatest  depth,  thus  far  ascertained, 
twenty-seven  and  a  half  fathoms  (165  feet)  ;  but  this 
inland  sea,  alternately  rising  and  falling,  from  copious 
rains  or  rapid  evaporation,  apart  from  its  only  outlet,  is 
constantly  fluctuating  in  depth. 

The  water  of  the  lake  is  cool  and  sweet,  and  the 
inhabitants  say  that  it  possesses  medicinal  properties.  It 
produces  five  kinds  of  fish,  all  good, — viz.  the  “Musht,” 
“ Abu  But,”  “Huflafah,”  “Abu  Kisher,”  and  “Burbut 
the  last,  from  some  superstitious  idea,  is  not  eaten  by  the 
Jews.  The  musht,  about  one  foot  long  and  four  or  five 
inches  wide,  resembles  the  sole.  Burckhardt  mentions 
one  called  Binni,  like  the  carp.  All  that  we  tasted,  and 
we  tried  to  procure  them  all,  were  delicious. 

In  the  evening,  we  had  a  long  conversation  with  the 
Arab  boatman,  who  was  one  of  the  crew  of  Molyneaux’s 
boat.  He  gave  a  disheartening  account  of  the  great,  and, 
as  he  thought,  the  insuperable  impediments  to  boats  as 
large  as  ours.  He  dwelt  particularly  upon  the  rapids  and 
cascades,  false  channels  and  innumerable  rocks,  and  was 
inclined  to  think  that  there  was  a  cataract  in  the  part  of 
the  river  along  which  they  transported  their  boat  upon  a 
camel.  Among  other  things,  he  stated  that  many  rivers 
empty  into  the  Jordan,  which  I  did  not  believe. 

That  we  should  encounter  great  obstacles,  perhaps 
seemingly  insurmountable  ones,  I  did  not  doubt;  but  1 
had  great  faith  in  American  sailors,  and  believed  that 
what  men  could  do,  they  would  achieve.  So  there  was 
no  thought  of  turning  back. 


166 


A  SLATTERNLY  FAMILY. 


When  in  Constantinople,  my  patience  was  severely 
tried  by  a  countryman,  who,  with  the  best  intentions,  but 
in  bad  taste,  gave  me  a  circumstantial  account  of  the 
death  of  three  British  naval  officers,  of  my  name,  engaged 
in  expeditions  to  the  east.  One  captain  and  two  lieu¬ 
tenants  ;  the  first  perishing  with  his  vessel  in  the  Eu¬ 
phrates  ;  one  of  the  others  massacred  by  the  Arabs,  and 
the  third  dying  in  the  desert.  Had  their  names  been 
Jones  and  mine  Jenkins,  there  would  have  been  no  fore¬ 
bodings  ;  but  as  it  was,  the  supposed  astounding  informa¬ 
tion  was  conveyed  in  a  mysterious  whisper,  with  an 
ominous  shake  of  the  head ! 

The  house  we  inhabited  was  owned  by  a  Jew;  and  if 
the  king  of  fleas  holds  his  court  in  Tiberias  his  throne  is 
surely  here.  But  that  the  narrow  and  tortuous  lanes  of 
the  town  (there  are  no  streets,  in  our  acceptation  of  the 
word)  were  crowded  with  filthy  and  disgusting  objects,  I 
should  have  given  the  palm  of  uncleanness  to  our  host 
and  his  family.  They  were,  in  person  and  attire,  literally 
unwashed,  uncombed,  slouching,  shuffling,  dirty,  and 
repulsive.  Unlike  all  other  places  we  have  seen,  the 
women  are  not  more  cleanly  than  the  men ;  and  while 
the  married  ones  carefully  conceal  their  hair,  they  all 
studiously  exhibit  the  formation  of  their  breasts,  which 
renders  them  anything  but  attractive. 

The  men  have  the  abject,  down- trodden  look  which 
seems  peculiar  to  this  people  in  the  east.  Many  of  the 
children  are  quite  handsome ;  but  filth,  poverty,  avarice, 
and  tyranny,  have  changed  the  old  into  disgusting  libels 
upon  humanity.  Compared  to  them,  our  wild  Arabs  are 
paragons  of  manly  cleanliness. 

The  pashas  and  governors,  in  this  country,  have  an  off¬ 
hand,  arbitrary,  and  unfeeling  mode  of  transacting  busi¬ 
ness.  When  our  camels  broke  down  at  Acre,  Said  Bey 
was  applied  to,  by  our  consul,  for  additional  ones.  There 


167 


MUSTAFA,  THE  COOK. 

happened,  unfortunately,  to  be  a  fellah  coming  from  Na¬ 
zareth  with  two  loaded  camels,  just  then  without  the 
walls.  He  was  made  to  throw  his  sacks  of  grain  in  the 
road ;  and  without  clothes,  or  communication  with  his 
family,  sent  to  assist  in  the  transportation  of  our  effects. 
By  chance,  he  found  a  friend  to  take  care  of  his  grain. 
Of  course  we  knew  nothing  of  this ;  and  would  rather 
not  have  come  at  all,  than  have  our  progress  facilitated 
by  such  an  act  of  tyranny.  It  was  not  until  about 
to  settle  with  the  camel-drivers,  that  we  were  told  of 
it.  The  poor  fellah  was  remunerated  for  his  loss  of  time, 
and  paid  liberally  for  the  use  of  his  camels,  the  amount 
being  deducted  from  the  sum  contracted  for  with  Said 
Mustafa. 

We  found  here  an  old  frame  boat,  which  I  purchased 
for  six  hundred  piastres,  about  twenty-five  dollars,  in 
order  to  relieve  the  other  boats,  lessen  the  expense  of 
transportation  down  the  Jordan,  and  carry  our  tents 
upon  the  Dead  Sea ;  for  it  was  fast  becoming  warm,  and 
we  might  not  be  able  to  work  in  that  deep  chasm  with¬ 
out  them.  We  repaired  and  named  her  “Uncle  Sam.” 

Since  we  occupied  these  quarters,  as  well  as  along  the 
route  from  Acre,  Mustafa  had  purchased  and  cooked 
our  provisions.  He  was  inestimable ; — a  genuine  Arab, 
speaking  a  little  English,  and  able  to  boil  a  kettle,  or 
roast  a  sheep,  in  a  gale  of  wind  in  the  open  air.  But 
his  great  recommendation  was  his  unvarying  cheerfulness 
at  all  times,  and  under  all  circumstances.  Every  morn¬ 
ing,  before  and  during  breakfast,  our  room  was  thronged 
with  Arabs,  and  Mustafa  knew  exactly  what  amount  of 
attention  to  bestow  on  each.  To  the  governor  and  the 
sheikhs,  he  tendered  the  tiny  cup  of  coffee,  or  the  chi¬ 
bouque,  with  his  head  bowed  down,  and  his  left  hand 
upon  his  breast :  to  those  approaching  his  own  degree, 
they  were  handed  with  cavalier  nonchalence. 


168 


AN  OGRE  PRINCE. 


Monday,  April  10.  It  was  necessary  to  procure  other 
camels  here,  the  owners  of  those  we  brought  from  Acre 
not  being  willing  to  trust  them  in  the  desert,  for  which 
reason  we  had  been  detained,  but  not  in  idleness,  for  we 
were  constantly  occupied  in  making  barometrical  and 
thermometrical  observations,  and  taking  sights  to  ascer¬ 
tain  the  rate  of  the  instruments.  It  was  necessary,  also, 
to  purchase  and  carry  our  provisions  with  us.  Last  night 
the  camels  were  reported  as  coming,  and  this  morning 
their  arrival  was  announced.  All,  therefore,  was  the 
busy  note  of  preparation. 

A  distinguished  guest  at  our  usual  extempore  levee  this 
morning,  was  the  Emir  or  Prince  of  the  tribes  on  the  upper 
banks  of  the  Jordan.  This  royal  personage  delights  in 
the  euphonius  patronymic  of  Emir  Nasser  ’Arar  el  Guz- 
zaway.  He  had  heard  of  our  purpose,  and  came  to 
proffer  the  hospitalities  of  his  tribes.  He  was  consider¬ 
ably  taller  and  stouter  than  the  generality  of  the  race ; 
his  complexion  was  of  the  tint  of  burnt  umber,  his  eye 
black,  lascivious,  and  glistening  like  that  of  a  snake ;  he 
wore  a  tangled  black  beard,  and,  with  his  fang-like  teeth, 
smiled  a  la  Carker.  His  costume  was  in  no  manner  dis¬ 
tinguished  from  that  of  his  numerous  attendants,  unless 
in  its  superlative  uncleanliness,  and  a  pre-eminence  in 
the  liberal  mode  of  ventilation  adopted  by  this  people. 

The  dirty  barbarian  affected  a  love  of  nature,  and  a  slight 
taste  for  botany.  Eeclining  lazily  upon  the  cushions  of 
the  divan,  with  a  kind  of  oriental  voluptuousness,  he  ever 
and  anon  raised  a  rose-bud  to  his  nostril,  and  enjoyed  its 
fragrance  with  the  exquisite  languor  of  a  city  beau. 
The  ogre  prince!  We  accepted  the  invitation,  and  he 
joined  the  caravan. 

In  order  that,  by  a  division  of  labour,  our  work  might 
be  well  performed,  I  assigned  to  each  officer  and  volunteer 
of  this  expedition  his  appropriate  duty.  With  the  com- 


ASSIGNMENT  OF  DUTIES, 


169 


mand  of  the  caravan,  Mr.  Dale  was  to  take  topographical 
sketches  of  the  country  as  he  proceeded,  and  such  other 
notes  as  circumstances  would  permit. 

Dr.  Anderson  was  directed  to  make  geological  observa¬ 
tions,  and  collect  specimens  where  he  could ;  Mr.  Bedlow 
to  note  the  aspect  of  the  country  on  the  land  route,  and 
the  incidents  that  occurred  on  the  march ;  and  Mr.  Francis 
Lynch,  who  was  charged  with  the  herbarium,  to  collect 
plants  and  flowers. 

In  the  water  party,  I  assigned  to  myself,  in  the  u  Fanny 
Mason,”  the  course,  rapidity,  colour,  and  depth  of  the  river 
and  its  tributaries,  —  the  nature  of  its  banks,  and  of  the 
country  through  which  it  flowed, — the  vegetable  produc¬ 
tions,  and  the  birds  and  animals  we  might  see,  with  a 
journal  of  events.  To  Mr.  Aulick,  who  had  charge  of 
the  “  Fanny  Skinner,”  was  assigned  the  topographical 
sketch  of  the  river  and  its  shores. 

It  was  my  anxious  desire  to  avoid  taking  camels  down 
the  Ghor;  but,  from  the  best  information  we  could  obtain 
respecting  the  river,  I  was  obliged  to  employ  them.  As 
the  Jordan  was  represented  to  run  between  high  banks 
which  form  the  terraces  of  another  valley  yet  above 
them,  I  felt  that  our  safety  and  the  success  of  the  expedi¬ 
tion  would  depend  materially  upon  the  vigilance  and 
alacrity  of  the  land  party.  I  therefore  placed  it  under 
command  of  Mr.  Dale.  It  consisted  of  Dr.  Anderson,  Mr. 
Bedlow,  Mr.  Lynch,  Sherif,  ’Akil,  Mustafa  and  ten  Beda- 
win  videttes.  They  were  directed  to  keep  as  near  to  the 
river  as  the  nature  of  the  country  would  permit,  and 
should  they  hear  two  guns  fired  in  quick  succession,  to 
leave  the  camel-drivers  to  take  care  of  themselves,  and 
hasten  with  all  speed  to  our  assistance.  I  felt  sure  that 
Mr.  Dale  would  not  fail  me,  and  in  that  respect  my  mind 
was  at  ease.  The  Sherif,  ’Akil  and  the  Emir  all  assured 
me  that  there  was  no  danger  to  the  caravan,  but  that  the 
15 


170  DEPARTURE  OF  THE  LAND  PARTY. 

great  fear  was  an  attack  upon  the  boats  when  entangled 
among  rocks  and  shoals. 

After  much  delay  and  vexation,  quarrelling  of  the  boat¬ 
men,  loud  talking  of  the  camel-drivers,  and  a  world  of 
other  annoyances,  we  of  the  water  saw  our  friends  of  the 
land  party  take  their  departure. 

Winding  through  the  narrow  streets,  over  piles  of  rub¬ 
bish,  filth  and  garbage,  encountering  ruin,  want,  and 
wretchedness  at  every  turn,  they  issued  from  the  northern 
gate  of  the  town  to  join  our  Bedawin  friends  at  the 
“  Baths/’  the  appointed  place  of  rendezvous. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


FROM  THE  SEA  OF  GALILEE  TO  THE  FALLS  OF 
BUK’AH.  — DEPARTURE  OF  THE  BOATS. 

Bright  was  the  day,  gay  our  spirits,  verdant  the  hills, 
and  unruffled  the  lake,  when,  pushing  off  from  the  shelv¬ 
ing  beach,  we  bade  adieu  to  the  last  outwork  of  border 
civilization,  and  steered  direct  for  the  outlet  of  the  Jor¬ 
dan.  The  “  Fanny  Mason”  led  the  way,  followed  closely 
by  the  “  Fanny  Skinner;”  and  the  Arab  boatmen  of  the 
66  Uncle  Sam”  worked  vigorously  at  the  oars  to  keep  their 
place  in  the  line.  With  awnings  spread  and  colours 
flying,  we  passed  comfortably  and  rapidly  onwards. 

Our  Bedawin  friends  had  many  of  them  exchanged 
their  lances  for  more  serviceable  weapons,  long-barrelled 
guns  and  heavily  mounted  pistols.  ’Aldl  alone  wore  a 
scimetar.  The  priestly  character  of  the  Sherif  forbade 
him  to  carry  arms.  With  the  addition  of  Emir  and  his 
followers,  they  amounted  in  all  to  thirty  horsemen.  Pass¬ 
ing  along  the  shore  in  single  file,  their  line  was  long  and 
imposing.  Eleven  camels  stalked  solemnly  ahead,  fol¬ 
lowed  by  the  wild  Bedawin  on  their  blooded  animals, 
with  their  abas  flying  in  the  wind,  and  their  long  gun- 
barrels  glittering  in  the  sun ;  and  Lieutenant  Dale  and 
his  officers  in  the  Frank  costume  brought  up  the  rear. 

Gallantly  marched  the  cavalcade  on  the  land,  beau¬ 
tiful  must  have  appeared  the  boats  upon  the  water. 
Little  did  we  know  what  difficulties  we  might  have  to 
encounter !  But,  placing  our  trust  on  high,  we  hoped 
and  feared  not. 


(171) 


172  SCENERY  OF  THE  LAKE. 

We  started  at  2  P.  M.,  the  temperature  of  the  air  82°, 
of  the  water  70°.  For  the  first  hour  we  steered  S.  E., 
then  S.  E.  by  S.,  and  E.  S.  E.,  when,  at  3.40,  we  arrived 
at  the  outlet.  The  same  feeling  prevented  us  from  cheer¬ 
ing  as  when  we  launched  the  boats,  although  before  us 
was  the  stream  which,  God  willing,  would  lead  us  to  our 
wondrous  destination. 

The  lake  narrowed  as  we  approached  its  southern  ex¬ 
tremity.  In  its  south-west  angle  are  the  ruins  of  ancient 
Tarrichcea ;  opposite,  on  the  eastern  shore,  a  lovely  plain 
sweeps  down  to  the  lake,  and  on  the  centre  of  the  water¬ 
line  a  ravine  (wady)  comes  down.  Due  west  from  it, 
across  the  foot  of  the  lake,  the  Jordan  debouches  shortly 
to  the  right.  The  right  or  western  shore  descends  in  a 
slope  towards  the  lake ;  the  left  is  somewhat  more  de¬ 
pressed,  and  much  washed  with  rains. 

The  scenery,  as  we  left  the  lake  and  advanced  into  the 
Ghor,  which  is  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  breadth, 
assumed  rather  a  tame  than  a  savage  character.  The 
rough  and  barren  mountains,  skirting  the  valley  on  each 
hand,  stretched  far  away  in  the  distance,  like  walls  to 
some  gigantic  fosse,  their  southern  extremities  half  hidden 
or  entirely  lost  in  a  faint  purple  mist. 

At  3.45,  we  swept  out  of  the  lake;  course,  W.  by  N. 
The  village  of  Semakh  on  a  hill  to  the  south,  and 
Mount  Hermon  brought  into  view,  bearing  N.  E.  by  N.; 
the  snow  deep  upon  its  crest,  and  white  parasitic  clouds 
clinging  to  its  sides.  On  the  extreme  low  point  to  the 
right  are  the  ruins,  called  by  the  Arabs,  Es  Sumra,  only 
a  stone  foundation  standing.  A  number  of  wild  ducks 
were  upon  the  water,  and  birds  were  flitting  about  on 
shore.  3.55,  our  cavalcade  again  appeared  in  sight, 
winding  along  the  shore.  The  Bedawin  looked  finely  in 
their  dark  and  white  and  crimson  costumes. 

At  4.30,  course  W.  S.  W.  abruptly  round  a  ledge  of 


THE  RIVER  JORDAN-. 


173 


small  rocks ;  current,  two  knots.  Our  course  varied  with 
the  frequent  turns  of  the  river,  from  N.  W.  by  W.  at 
4.35,  to  S.  at  4.38.  The  average  breadth  about  seventy- 
five  feet ;  the  banks  rounded  and  about  thirty  feet  high, 
luxuriantly  clothed  with  grass  and  flowers.  The  scarlet 
anemone,  the  yellow  marigold,  and  occasionally  a  water- 
lily,  and  here  and  there  a  straggling  asphodel,  close  to 
the  water  s  edge,  but  not  a  tree  nor  a  shrub. 

At  4.43,  we  passed  an  inlet,  or  bay,  wider  than  the 
river,  called  El  Muh,  which  extended  north  a  quarter  of 
a  mile.  We  lost  sight  of  the  lake  in  five  minutes  after 
leaving  it.  At  4.45,  heard  a  shot  from  the  shore,  and 
soon  after  saw  one  of  our  scouts :  4.46,  passed  a  low 
island,  ninety  yards  long,  tufted  with  shrubbery;  left 
bank  abrupt,  twenty-five  feet  high ;  a  low,  marshy  island, 
off  a  point  on  the  right,  which  runs  out  from  the  plain  at 
the  foot  of  the  mountains.  Water  clear  and  ten  feet 
deep.  4.55,  saw  the  shore  party  dismounted  on  the  right 
bank.  Mount  Hermon  glittering  to  the  north,  over  the 
level  tract  which  sweeps  between  the  mountain,  the  lake, 
and  the  river. 

When  the  current  was  strong,  we  only  used  the  oars  to 
keep  in  the  channel,  and  floated  gently  down  the  stream, 
frightening,  in  our  descent,  a  number  of  wild  fowl  feeding 
in  the  marsh  grass  and  on  the  reedy  islands.  At  4.56, 
current  increasing,  swept  round  a  bend  of  the  shore,  and 
heard  the  hoarse  sound  of  a  rapid.  4.57,  came  in  sight 
of  the  partly  whole  and  partly  crumbled  abutments  of 
“  Jisr  Semakh,”  the  bridge  of  Semakh. 

The  ruins  are  extremely  picturesque;  the  abutments 
standing  in  various  stages  of  decay,  and  the  fallen  frag¬ 
ments  obstructing  the  course  of  the  river;  save  at  one 
point,  towards  the  left  bank,  where  the  pent-up  water 
finds  an  issue,  and  runs  in  a  sluice  among  the  scattering 
masses  of  stone. 

15* 


174 


SHOOTING  A  RAPID. 


From  the  disheartening  account  we  had  received  of  the 
river,  I  had  come  to  the  conclusion  that  it  might  be  ne¬ 
cessary  to  sacrifice  one  of  the  boats  to  preserve  the  rest. 
I  therefore  decided  to  take  the  lead  in  the  “  F anny  Ma¬ 
son  for,  being  made  of  copper,  quite  serious  damages  to 
her  could  be  more  easily  repaired ;  and  if  dashed  to 
pieces,  her  fragments  would  serve  to  warn  the  others  from 
the  danger. 

After  reconnoitering  the  rapid,  at  5.05,  we  shot  down 
the  sluice.  The  following  note  was  made  on  shore  : 

“  We  halted  at  the  ruins  of  an  old  bridge,  now  forming- 
obstructions,  over  which  the  foaming  river  rushed  like  a 
mountain  torrent.  The  river  was  about  thirty  yards 
wide.  Soon  after  we  halted,  the  boats  hove  in  sight 
around  a  bend  of  the  river.  See !  the  Fanny  Mason 
attempts  to  shoot  between  two  old  piers !  she  strikes 
upon  a  rock !  she  broaches  to !  she  is  in  imminent  danger ! 
down  comes  the  Uncle  Sam  upon  her!  now  they  are  free! 
the  Fanny  Skinner  follows  safely,  and  all  are  moored  in 
the  cave  below !” 

As  we  came  through  the  rapids,  ’Akil  stood  upon  the 
summit  of  one  of  the  abutments,  in  his  green  cloak,  red 
tarbouch  and  boots,  and  flowing  white  trousers,  pointing 
out  the  channel  with  a  spear.  Over  his  head  and  around 
him,  a  number  of  storks  were  flying  disorderly. 

What  threatened  to  be  its  greatest  danger,  proved  the 
preservation  of  the  leading  boat.  We  had  swept  upon  a 
rock  in  mid-channel,  when  the  Arab  crew  of  the  Uncle 
Sam  unskilfully  brought  her  within  the  influence  of  the 
current.  She  was  immediately  borne  down  upon  us  with 
great  velocity ;  but  striking  us  at  a  favourable  angle,  we 
slided  off  the  ledge  of  rock,  and  floated  down  together. 
The  Fanny  Skinner,  drawing  less  water,  barely  touched 
in  passing. 

The  boats  were  securely  moored  for  the  night  in  a  little 


THE  BRIDGE  OF  SEMAKH.  175 

cave  on  the  right  bank,  and  were  almost  hidden  among 
the  tall  grass  and  weeds  which  break  the  force  of  the  eddy 
current. 

From  a  boat  drawing  only  eight  inches  water  striking 
in  mid-channel  at  this  time  of  flood,  I  was  inclined  to 
think  that  the  river  must  be  very  shallow  in  the  summer 
months,  particularly  if  much  snow  has  not  fallen  among 
the  mountains  during  the  preceding  winter. 

We  found  the  tents  pitched  on  a  small  knoll,  com¬ 
manding  a  fine  view  of  the  river  and  the  bridge.  Over 
the  ruins  of  the  latter  were  yet  hovering  a  multitude  of 
storks,  frightened  from  their  reedy  nests,  on  the  tops  of 
the  ruined  abutments,  by  the  strange  sights  and  sounds. 
There  were  two  entire  and  six  partial  abutments,  and 
the  ruins  of  another,  on  each  shore.  The  snowy  crest  of 
Mount  Hermon  bore  N.  E.  iN.  The  village  of  Semakh, 
lying  in  an  E.  N.  E.  direction,  was  concealed  by  an  inter¬ 
vening  ridge. 

Our  course,  since  leaving  the  lake,  has  varied  from 
south  to  N.  W.  by  N.,  —  the  general  inclination  has  been 
west ;  river,  twenty-five  to  thirty  yards  wide ;  current,  two 
and  a  half  knots  ;  water  clear  and  sweet.  We 
islands,  one  of  them  very  small. 

We  were  upon  the  edge  of  the  Ghor.  A  little  to  the 
north,  the  Ardh  el  Hamma  (the  land  of  the  bath)  swept 
down  from  the  left.  The  lake  was  concealed,  although, 
in  a  direct  line,  quite  near ;  and  a  lofty  ridge  overlooked 
us  from  the  west.  The  soil  here  is  a  dark  rich  loam, 
luxuriantly  clothed  three  feet  deep  with  flowers,  —  the 
purple  bloom  of  the  thistle  predominates,  and  the  yellow 
of  the  marigold  and  pink  oleander  are  occasionally 
relieved  by  the  scarlet  anemone.  The  rocks  nowhere 
crop-out,  but  large  boulders  of  sandstone  and  trap  are 
scattered  over  the  surface.  Some  flowers  were  gathered 
here,  which  equal  any  I  have  ever  seen  in  delicacy  of 


passed  two 


176 


ARAB  HOSPITALITY. 


form  and  tint.  Among  them,  besides  those  I  have  named, 
were  the  Adonis  or  Pheasant’s  eye;  the  Briony,  formerly 
used  in  medicine ;  the  Scabiosa  Stellata,  in  great  luxu¬ 
riance,  and  which  is  cultivated  at  home ;  and  two  kinds 
of  clover, — one  with  a  thorny  head,  which  we  have  never 
seen  before,  and  the  other  small  but  beautiful,  with  purple 
flowers. 

From  the  eminence  above,  our  encampment  beside  the 
rapids  looked  charming.  There  were  two  American,  one 
Arab,  and  one  Egyptian  (Dr.  Anderson’s)  tents,  of  differ¬ 
ent  colours, — white  and  green,  and  blue  and  crimson. 
In  the  soft  and  mellow  light  of  the  moon,  the  scene  was 
beautiful. 

On  this  side  is  the  land  of  Zebulon ;  that  of  the  tribe 
of  Gad  lies  upon  the  other. 

The  sheikh  of  Semakh  holds  a  tract  of  land  on  a 
singular  tenure.  The  condition  is  that  he  shall  enter¬ 
tain  all  travellers  who  may  call,  with  a  supper,  and 
barley  for  their  horses.  Our  Bedawin  determined  to  avail 
themselves  of  the  privilege.  Nothing  could  be  more  pic¬ 
turesque  than  their  appearance  as  they  forded  the  stream 
in  single  file,  and  galloped  over  the  hill  to  Semakh. 
And  what  a  supper  they  will  have  !  A  whole  sheep, 
and  buckets  of  rice  !* 

Our  friends  returned  late  at  night,  splashing  the  water, 
shouting,  and  making  such  a  clatter  that  we  sprang  to 
our  arms  expecting  an  attack.  Repeatedly  afterwards 
during  the  night  we  were  disturbed  by  Dr.  Anderson’s 
horse,  which,  since  the  moment  he  joined  us  at  Turan, 
had  kept  the  camp  in  constant  alarm,  getting  loose  at 
night  and  rushing  franticly  over  the  tenhcords,  attacking 
some  slumbering  Arab  steed,  his  bitter  enemy. 

Tuesday,  April  11.  Very  early  this  morning  culled  for 

*  Usually,  when  the  sheikh  is  not  wealthy,  the  tents  of  the  tribe  take  it 
in  turn  to  entertain  strangers. 


RUINED  BRIDGE  OE  SEMAKH. 


FORMIDABLE  RAPIDS. 


177 


our  collection  two  varieties  of  flowers  we  had  not  before 
seen.  At  6  A.  M.,  called  all  hands,  and  prepared  for 
starting.  To  avoid  stopping  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  we 
were  necessarily  delayed  for  breakfast  in  the  morning. 

8.10  A.  M.,  started,  the  boats  down  the  river,  the  cara¬ 
van  by  land.  The  current  at  first  about  2i  knots,  but 
increasing  as  we  descended,  until  at  8.20  we  came  to 
where  the  river,  for  more  than  three  hundred  yards,  was 
one  foaming  rapid;  the  fishing-weirs  and  the  ruins  of 
another  ancient  bridge  obstructing  the  passage.  There 
were  cultivated  fields  on  both  sides.  Took  everything 
out  of  the  boats,  sent  the  men  overboard  to  swim 
alongside  and  guide  them,  and  shot  them  successively 
down  the  first  rapid.  The  water  was  fortunately  very 
deep  to  the  first  fall,  where  it  precipitated  itself  over  a 
ledge  of  rocks.  The  river  becoming  more  shallow,  we 
opened  a  channel  by  removing  large  stones,  and  as  the 
current  was  now  excessively  rapid,  we  pulled  well  out 
into  the  stream,  bows  up,  let  go  a  grapnel  and  eased  each 
boat  down  in  succession.  Below  us  were  yet  five  succes¬ 
sive  falls,  about  eighteen  feet  in  all,  with  rapids  between, 
—  a  perfect  breakdown  in  the  bed  of  the  river.  It  was 
very  evident  that  the  boats  could  not  descend  them. 

On  the  right  of  the  river,  opposite  to  the  point  where 
the  weirs  and  the  ruined  bridge  blocked  up  the  bed  of  the 
stream,  was  a  canal  or  sluice,  evidently  made  for  the  pur¬ 
pose  of  feeding  a  mill,  the  ruins  of  which  were  visible  a 
short  distance  below.  This  canal,  at  its  outlet  from  the 
river,  was  sufficiently  broad  and  deep  to  admit  of  the 
boats  entering  and  proceeding  for  a  short  distance,  when 
it  became  too  narrow  to  allow  their  further  progress. 

Bringing  the  boats  thus  far,  we  again  took  everything 
out  of  them,  and  cleared  away  the  stones,  bushes  and  other 
obstructions  between  the  mill  sluice  and  the  river.  A 
breach  was  then  made  in  the  bank  of  the  sluice,  and  as 

M 


178 


THE  RAPIDS  PASSED. 


the  water  rushed  down  the  shallow  artificial  channel, 
with  infinite  labour,  our  men,  cheerfully  assisted  by  a 
number  of  Arabs,  bore  them  down  the  rocky  slope  and 
launched  them  in  the  bed  of  the  river,  —  but  not  below 
all  danger,  for  a  sudden  descent  of  six  or  seven  feet  was 
yet  to  be  cleared,  and  some  eighty  yards  of  swift  and 
shallow  current  to  be  passed  before  reaching  an  unob¬ 
structed  channel. 

1  P.  M.  We  accomplished  this  difficult  passage,  after 
severe  labour,  up  to  our  waists  in  the  water  for  upwards 
of  four  hours.  Hauled  to  the  right  bank  to  rest  and 
wait  for  our  arms,  instruments,  &c.  We  were  surrounded 
by  many  strange  Arabs,  and  had  stationed  one  of  our 
men  by  the  blunderbuss  on  the  bows  of  the  Uncle  Sam, 
and  one  each  by  the  other  boats,  while  the  remainder 
proceeded  to  bring  down  the  arms. 

We  lay  just  above  an  abrupt  bend  from  S.  to  N.  E.  by 
E.  The  left  bank,  in  the  bend,  is  sixty  feet  high,  and 
precipitous,  of  a  chocolate  and  cream-coloured  earth. 
The  river  continues  to  descend,  lessened  in  rapidity,  but 
still  about  five  knots  per  hour.  It  breaks  entirely 
across,  just  below.  There  were  thick  clusters  of  white  and 
pink  oleander  in  bloom  along  the  banks,  and  some  lily- 
plants  which  had  passed  their  season  and  were  fading 
away.  Here  we  killed  an  animal  having  the  form  of 
a  lobster,  the  head  of  a  mouse,  and  the  tail  of  a  dog :  the 
Arabs  call  it  kelb  el  maya,  or  water-dog. 

1.20  P.  M.,  started  again.  1.45,  descended  a  cascade 
at  an  angle  of  30°,  at  the  rate  of  twelve  knots,  passing, 
immediately  after,  down  a  shoal  rapid,  where  we  struck, 
and  hung,  for  a  few  moments,  upon  a  rock.  Stopped  for 
the  other  boats,  which  were  behind.  The  course  of  the 
river  had  been  very  circuitous,  as  reference  to  the  chart 
will  show. 

At  2.05,  saw  some  of  our  caravan  on  a  hill,  in  the  dis- 


MORE  RAPIDS. 


179 


tance.  Wet  and  weary,  I  walked  along  the  difficult  shore 
to  look  for  the  other  boats,  when,  seeing  a  cluster  of  Be- 
dawin  spears  on  the  hank  above,  I  went  up  to  see  to 
whom  they  belonged.  It  was  a  party  of  nine  strange 
Arabs,  who  were  seated  upon  the  grass,  their  horses 
tethered  near  them.  They  examined  my  watch-guard 
and  uniform  buttons  very  closely;  and  eagerly  looked 
over  my  shoulder,  uttering  many  exclamations,  when  I 
wrote  in  my  note-hook.  They  repeatedly  asked  for  some¬ 
thing  which  I  could  not  understand,  and  as  they  began 
to  be  importunate,  I  left  them.  Shortly  after,  while 
walking  further  up,  I  came  upon  their  low,  black,  camel’s 
hair  tent,  almost  concealed  by  a  thicket  of  rank  shrubbery. 

At  2.40,  came  to  two  mills,  the  buildings  entire,  but 
the  wheels  and  machinery  gone,  with  a  sluice  which  had 
formerly  supplied  them  with  water.  As  in  the  morning, 
we  turned  the  water  from  the  upper  part  of  the  sluice 
into  the  river,  carried  the  boats  along,  and  dragged  them 
safely  round  these  second  series  of  rapids. 

The  soil  is  fertile,  but  the  country  about  here  is  wholly 
uncultivated.  The  surface  of  the  plain  is  about  fifteen 
feet  above  the  river,  thence  gradually  ascending  a  short 
distance  to  a  low  range  of  hills ;  beyond  which,  on  each 
side,  the  prospect  is  closed  in  by  mountains. 

At  4.45,  stopped  to  rest,  after  descending  the  eleventh 
rapid  we  had  encountered.  The  velocity  of  the  current 
was  so  great  that  one  of  the  seamen,  who  lost  his  hold 
(being  obliged  to  cling  on  outside),  was  nearly  swept  over 
the  fall,  and,  with  very  great  difficulty,  gained  the  shore. 
The  mountains  on  the  east  coast  of  Lake  Tiberias  were 
visible  over  the  left  hank.  The  summit  of  Mount  Her- 
mon  (the  snowy  summit  could  alone  be  seen)  bore  N.  E. 
by  N. 

At  5  P.  M.,  passed  a  ravine  (wady)  on  the  left,  in  a 
bend  between  high,  precipitous  banks  of  earth.  We  here 


180 


A  1ST  ARAB  VILLAGE. 


saw  canes  for  the  first  time,  growing  thickly.  On  the 
right  are  lofty,  perpendicular  banks  of  earth  and  clay. 
The  river  winding  with  many  turns,  we  opened,  at  5.04, 
an  extensive  uncultivated  plain  on  the  right;  a  small, 
transverse,  cultivated  valley,  between  high  banks,  on 
the  left ; — the  wheat  beginning  to  head.  The  river  fifty- 
five  yards  wide  and  two  and  a  half  feet  deep.  Current, 
four  knots;  the  water  becoming  muddy.  We  saw  a 
partridge,  an  owl,  a  large  hawk,  some  herons  (hedda), 
and  many  storks,  and  caught  a  trout. 

At  5.10,  rounded  a  high,  bold  bluff,  the  river  becoming 
wider  and  deeper,  with  gravelly  bottom.  A  solitary  carob 
tree,  resembling  a  large  apple  tree,  on  the  right.  At 
5.40,  the  river  about  sixty  yards  wide,  and  current  three 
knots,  passed  the  village  of  ’Abeidiyeh,  a  large  collection  of 
mud  huts,  on  a  commanding  eminence  on  the  right; — the 
people,  men,  women,  and  children,  with  discordant  cries, 
hurrying  down  the  hill  towards  the  river  when  they  saw 
us.  It  was  too  late  to  stop,  for  night  was  approaching, 
and  we  had  seen  nothing  of  the  caravan  since  wre  parted 
with  them,  at  the  ruined  bridge,  this  forenoon. 

If  the  inhabitants  intended  to  molest  us,  we  swept  by 
with  too  much  rapidity  for  them  to  carry  their  designs 
into  execution..  5.44,  passed  a  small  stream  coming  in 
on  the  right.  5.46,  another  small  stream,  same  side,  150 
yards  below  the  first ;  some  swallows  and  snipes  flying 
about.  5.48,  passed  a  bank  of  fullers’  earth,  twenty  feet 
high,  on  the  left ;  a  beautiful  bank  on  the  right,  clothed 
with  luxuriant  verdure ;  the  rank  grass  here  and  there 
separated  by  patches  of  wild  oats. 

The  mountain  ranges  forming  the  edges  of  the  upper 
valley,  as  seen  from  time  to  time  through  gaps  in  the 
foliage  of  the  river  banks,  were  of  a  light  brown  colour, 
surmounted  with  white. 

The  water  now  became  clearer,  —  was  eight  feet  deep ; 


181 


.  * 


FALLS  AND  WHIRLPOOL. 

hard  bottom  5  small  trees  in  thickets  under  the  banks,  and 
advancing  into  the  water — principally  Tiirfa  (tamarisk)  , 
the  willow  (Sifsaf),  and  tangled  vines  beneath. 

We  frequently  saw  fish  in  the  transparent  water;  while 
ducks,  storks,  and  a  multitude  of  other  birds,  rose  from 
the  reeds  and  osiers,  or  plunged  into  the  thickets  of 
oleander  and  tamarisk  which  fringe  the  banks, — beyond 
them  are  frequent  groves  of  the  wild  pistachio. 

Half  a  mile  below  ’Abeidiyeh  the  river  became  deeper, 
with  a  gentle  descent, — current,  three  and  a  half  knots. 
6.15,  passed  a  small  island  covered  with  grass:  started  up 
a  flock  of  ducks  and  some  storks ;  a  small  bay  on  the  left, 
a  path  leading  down  to  it  from  over  the  hills ;  canes  and 
coarse  tufted  grass  on  the  shores.  6.19,  another  inlet  on 
the  left;  6.21,  one  on  the  right.  The  left  shore  quite 
marshy, — high  land  back ;  the  water  again  became  clear, 
and  of  a  light  green  colour,  as  when  it  left  the  lake ;  many 
birds  flying  about,  particularly  swallows. 

At  8  P.  M.,  reached  the  head  of  the  falls  and  whirlpool 
of  Buk’ ah;  and  finding  it  too  dark  to  proceed,  hauled  the 
boats  to  the  right  bank,  and  clambered  up  the  steep  hill 
to  search  for  the  camp.  About  one-third  up,  encountered 
a  deep  dyke,  cut  in  the  flank  of  the  hill,  which  had  evi¬ 
dently  been  used  for  purposes  of  irrigation.  After  follow¬ 
ing  it  for  some  distance,  succeeded  in  fording  it,  and  going 
to  the  top  of  the  hill,  had  to  climb  in  the  dark,  through 
briars  and  over  stone  walls,  the  ruins  of  the  village  of 
Delhemiyeh.  A  short  distance  beyond,  met  a  Bedawin 
with  a  horse,  who  had  been  sent  to  look  for  us.  Learned 
from  him  that  the  camp  was  half  a  mile  below  the  whirl¬ 
pool,  and  abreast  of  the  lower  rapids.  Sent  word  to  Mr. 
Aulick  to  secure  the  boats,  and  bring  the  men  up  as  soon 
as  they  were  relieved,  and  hastened  on  myself  to  pro¬ 
cure  the  necessary  guards,  for  our  men  were  excessively 
fatigued,  having  been  in  the  water  without  food  since 
16 


182 


RUINED  VILLAGES. 


breakfast.  A  few  moments  after,  I  met  ’Akil,  also  look¬ 
ing  for  us.  At  my  request,  lie  sent  some  of  his  men  to 
relieve  ours,  in  charge  of  the  boats. 

The  village  of  Delhemiyeh,  as  well  as  that  of  Buk’ali 
opposite,  were  destroyed,  it  is  said,  by  the  Bedawin,  the 
wandering  Arabs.  Many  of  the  villages  on  and  near  the 
river  are  inhabited  by  Egyptians,  placed  there  by  Ibrahim 
Pasha,  to  repress  the  incursions  of  the  Bedawin  —  some¬ 
what  on  our  plan  of  the  military  occupation  of  Florida. 
Now  that  the  strong  arm  of  the  Egyptian  “  bull-dog,”  as 
Stephens  aptly  terms  him,  is  withdrawn,  the  fate  of  these 
villages  is  not  surprising.  The  Bedawin  in  their  incur¬ 
sions  rob  the  fellahin  of  their  produce  and  their  crops. 
Miserable  and  unarmed,  the  latter  abandon  their  villages 
and  seek  a  more  secure  position,  or  trust  to  chance  to 
supply  themselves  with  food  (for  of  raiment  they  seem  to 
have  no  need,)  until  the  summer  brings  the  harvest  and 
the  robber.  Once  abandoned,  their  huts  fall  into  as  much 
ruin  as  they  are  susceptible  of,  which  is  nothing  more 
than  the  washing  away  of  the  roofs  by  the  winter  rains. 

Although  I  knew  it  to  be  important  to  note  everything 
we  passed,  and  every  aspect  of  the  country,  yet  such  was 
the  acute  responsibility  I  felt  for  the  lives  placed  in  my 
charge,  that  nearly  all  my  faculties  were  absorbed  in  the 
management  of  the  boats — hence  the  meagreness  of  these 
observations.  As  some  amends,  I  quote  from  the  notes 
of  the  land  party. 

“  Our  route  lay  through  an  extensive  plain,  luxuriant 
in  vegetation,  and  presenting  to  view  in  uncultivated 
spots,  a  richness  of  alluvial  soil,  the  produce  of  which, 
with  proper  agriculture,  might  nourish  a  vast  population. 
On  our  route  as  we  advanced,  and  within  half  an  hour 
(distance  is  measured  by  time  in  this  country)  from  the 
last  halting-place,  were  four  or  five  black  tents,  belonging 
to  those  tribes  of  Arabs  called  fellahin,  or  agriculturists, 


as  distinguished  from  the  wandering  warrior  Arab,  who 
considers  such  labour  as  ignoble  and  unmanly. 

“  Enclosing  these  huts  was  a  low  fence  of  brush,  which 
served  to  confine  the  gambols  of  eight  or  ten  young  naked 
barbarians,  who,  together  with  a  few  sheep  and  a  calf, 
were  enjoying  a  romp  in  the  sunshine,  disregarding  the 
heat.  We  declined  the  invitation  to  alight,  but  accepted 
a  bowl  of  camel’s  milk,  which  proved  extremely  re¬ 
freshing. 

“A  miserable  collection  of  mud  huts  upon  a  most  com¬ 
manding  site,  called  ’Abeidiyeh,  attracted  our  attention 
as  we  passed  it.  The  wild  and  savage  looking  inhabit¬ 
ants  rushed  from  their  hovels  and  clambered  up  their 
dirt-heaps  to  see  the  gallant  sight — the  swarthy  Bedawin, 
the  pale  Franks,  and  the  laden  camels.  Still  further  on, 
we  passed  the  ruins  of  two  Arab  villages,  one  on  each 
side  of  the  Jordan,  and  upon  elevations  of  corresponding 
height,  ‘  Delhemiyeh’  and  ‘  Buk ’ah.’ 

“  Below  these  villages,  and  close  upon  the  Jordan’s 
bank,  where  the  river  in  places  foamed  over  its  rocky 
bed  with  the  fury  of  a  cataract,  we  pitched  the  camp. 
Here  we  were  to  await  the  arrival  of  the  boats.  At  2.30 
we  encamped,  and  at  5  they  had  not  yet  arrived.  The 
sun  set  and  night  closed  upon  us,  and  yet  no  signs  of 
them.  We  became  uneasy,  and  were  about  mounting  to 
go  in  search  of  them,  when  the  captain  made  his  appear¬ 
ance.” 

About  9  P.  M.,  Emir  Nasser,  with  his  suite,  came  to 
the  tent.  After  the  customary  cup  of  coffee  he  said  that 
he  would  go  with  us  to  Bahr  Lilt  (Dead  Sea),  or  wherever 
else  I  wished,  from  pure  affection,  but  that  his  followers 
would  expect  to  be  paid,  and  requested  to  know  how 
many  I  required;  how  far  they  were  to  go,  and  what 
remuneration  to  receive.  I  replied  that  I  was  then  too 
weary  to  discuss  the  matter,  but  would  tell  him  in  the 


184 


ROMANTIC  ENCAMPMENT. 


morning,  and  he  retired.  Either  from  exposure,  or 
fatigue,  or  the  effect  of  the  water,  one  of  the  seamen  was 
attacked  with  dysentery.  I  anxiously  hoped  that  he 
would  be  better  in  the  morning,  for  each  one  was  now 
worth  a  host. 

Our  encampment  was  a  romantic  one.  Above  was  the 
whirlpool ;  abreast,  and  winding  below,  glancing  in  the 
moonlight,  was  the  silvery  sheen  of  the  river ;  and  high 
up,  on  each  side,  were  the  ruined  villages,  whence  the 
peaceful  fellahin  had  been  driven  by  the  predatory  robber. 
The  whooping  of  the  owl  above,  the  song  of  the  bulbul 
below,  were  drowned  in  the  onward  rush  and  deafening 
roar  of  the  tumultuous  waters. 

We  were  now  approaching  the  part  of  our  route  consi¬ 
dered  the  most  perilous,  from  the  warlike  character  of  the 
nomadic  tribes  it  was  probable  we  should  encounter.  It 
therefore  behoved  us  to  be  vigilant ; — and  notwithstand¬ 
ing  the  land  party  had  been  nearly  all  day  on  horseback, 
and  the  boats’  crews  for  a  longer  period  in  the  water,  the 
watches  could  not  be  dispensed  with ;  and  one  officer  and 
two  men,  for  two  hours  at  a  time,  kept  guard  around  the 
camp,  with  the  blunderbuss  mounted  for  immediate  use 
in  front. 

Every  one  lay  down  with  his  cartridge-belt  on,  and  his 
arms  beside  him.  It  was  the  dearest  wish  of  my  heart 
to  carry  through  this  enterprise  without  bloodshed,  or  the 
loss  of  life;  but  we  had  to  be  prepared  for  the  worst. 
Average  width  of  river  to-day,  forty  yards ;  depth  from 
two  and  a  half  to  six  feet ;  descended  nine  rapids,  three 
of  them  terrific  ones.  General  course,  E.  S.  E. ;  passed 
one  island. 

It  was  a  bright  moonlight  night ;  the  dew  fell  heavily, 
and  the  air  was  chilly.  But  neither  the  beauty  of  the 
night,  the  wild  scene  around,  the  bold  hills,  between 
which  the  river  rushed  and  foamed,  a  cataract,  nor  moon- 


NIGHT  BESIDE  THE  FALLS.  185 

light  upon  the  ruined  villages,  nor  tents  pitched  upon  the 
shore,  watch-fires  blazing,  and  the  Arab  hard  singing 
sadly  to  the  sound  of  his  rebabeh,*  could,  with  all  the 
spirit  of  romance,  keep  us  long  awake.  With  our  hands 
upon  our  firelocks,  we  slept  soundly ;  the  crackle  of  the 
dry  wood  of  the  camp-fires,  and  the  low  sound  of  the 
Arab’s  song,  mingling  with  our  dreams;  dreams,  per¬ 
chance,  as  pleasant  as  those  of  Jacob  at  Bethel;  for, 
although  our  pillows  were  hard,  and  our  beds  the  native 
earth,  we  were  upon  the  brink  of  the  sacred  J ordan ! 

*The  rebabeh  is  shaped  like  a  miniature  spade,  with  a  short  handle; 
the  lowest  and  widest  part,  covered  with  sheepskin  on  both  sides,  is  about 
one  inch  thick  and  five  wide.  The  ghoss  (bow)  is  simply  a  bent  stick, 
with  horse-hair  for  strings.  This  instrument  is,  perhaps,  a  coarser  speci¬ 
men  of  the  nokhara  khana,  which  is  played  before  the  gateways  of  palaces 
m  Persia. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


FROM  THE  FALLS  OF  BUK’AH  TO  FOURTH  CAMPING 

PLACE  ON  THE  JORDAN. 

Wednesday,  April  12.  Went  out  at  daybreak  this 
morning  to  look  at  the  whirlpool  and  rapids,  above  and 
below  the  camp.  My  ankle  feeling  sore,  from  a  sprain 
yesterday,  I  returned  for  a  horse,  and  rode  nearly  down 
to  where  the  Yermak  (ancient  Hieromax)  falls  into  the 
Jordan  from  the  east,  when  I  saw  Sherif  coming  rapidly 
towards  me,  on  his  spirited  mare,  and  calling  out,  in  an 
angry  tone,  to  some  Arabs,  who,  I  now  perceived,  were 
approaching  under  cover  of  the  bank.  They  turned 
back,  and  when  he  joined  me  he  said  nothing  about  them, 
but  kept  close  by  me  the  remainder  of  the  ride.  He 
ordered  these  people  about  as  if  he  were  a  sovereign. 
During  the  ride,  he  was  of  great  service  in  assisting  me 
to  gather  flowers,  of  which  there  was  a  profusion ;  among 
them  were  the  “bisbas,”  a  yellow,  and  the  bughuk,  a 
crimson  flower.  The  last  like  the  mullen,  except  that 
each  flower  grows  on  a  separate  stem,  branching  out  at 
the  top,  some  distance  from  the  main  stalk.  It  was  seven 
feet  high,  a  miniature  tree  in  blossom.  The  banks  were 
fringed  with  the  laurestinus,  the  oleander,  the  willow,  and 
the  tamarisk;  and  farther  inland,  on  the  slope  of  the 
second  terrace,  grew  a  small  species  of  oak  and  the  cedar. 
The  arbutus  (strawberry  tree)  was  mingled  with  the 
flowers  of  the  plain.  From  the  banks  to  the  elevated 
ridges,  on  either  side,  the  grass  and  the  flowers  presented 
a  surface  of  luxuriance  and  beauty. 


(186) 


THE  ANCIENT  GADAEA. 


187 


Picked  up  some  specimens  of  quartz  and  trap.  The 
chain  of  transverse  hills  through  which  the  Jordan  forces 
its  way,  is  most  probably  that  which  separates  the  Ardh 
el  Hamma  from  the  vale  of  Jezrael. 

The  tribes  through  whose  territories  we  had  passed 
thus  far,  as  given  to  me  by  ’Aldl,  were  the  Beshatewa, 
one  hour  above  and  below  the  bridge  of  Semakh,  number¬ 
ing  two  hundred  fighting  men ;  next,  the  ‘Obeidiyeli,  on 
both  sides,  one  hour  back  from  the  river,  mustering  five 
hundred ;  and  the  Es  Siikr,  in  whose  territories  we  were 
now  encamped,  numbering  three  hundred  warriors. 

About  three  hours  from  this,  on  an  eminence,  at  the 
foot  of  which  flows  the  Yermak,  was  Um  Keis  (the  mother 
of  ruins),  the  ancient  Gadara.  This  place,  restored  by 
Pompey  the  Great,  is  said  to  contain  magnificent  ruins, 
in  an  extraordinary  state  of  preservation.  In  its  won¬ 
derful  tombs,  it  is  believed  that  the  demoniac  of  the 
Gospel  dwelt,  when  our  Lord  performed  a  miracle ;  and 
in  its  hot  baths  is  laid  the  strange  scene  of  incantation  in 
the  life  of  Iamblicus,  where  he  is  said  to  have  called  up 
the  spirits  of  Eros  and  Anteros.* 

As  the  hot  baths  indicated  the  existence  of  volcanic 
characters,  which  might  throw  light  upon  the  geological 
structure  of  that  region,  I  gave  Dr.  Anderson  an  escort, 
and  directed  him  to  diverge  from  the  line  of  march,  visit 
Um  Keis,  and  rejoin  us  at  the  appointed  place  of  rendez¬ 
vous  at  night. 

The  trap  continued  on  both  sides,  with  occasional  inter¬ 
ruptions  of  limestone,  sandstone,  and  conglomerate. 

Lake  Tiberias  was  but  four  hours  distant,  in  a  direct 
line ;  although  we  had  been  a  day  and  a  half  on  the  river, 
so  tortuous  is  its  course,  and  so  interrupted  is  its  channel. 

Before  starting  this  morning,  I  sent  for  the  elder  sherif 


*  Quarterly  Review. 


188 


LOSS  OF  A  BOAT. 


and  ’Akil,  and  told  them,  and  desired  them  to  repeat  to 
the  Emir,  that  we  did  not  ask  for,  and  would  neither 
buy  nor  receive,  protection :  —  that  we  were  willing  to 
pay  for  guides  and  provisions,  and  for  all  services  ren¬ 
dered  in  descending  the  river,  as  well  as  for  all  damage 
we  might  occasion  to  weirs  or  mill-dams, — but  for  nothing 
more ;  and  that  the  Emir  and  his  guides  would  not  be 
required  beyond  the  limits  of  their  territory.  They  said 
that  we  were  perfectly  right ;  but  as  the  Emir  had  tra¬ 
velled  to  Tubarlyeh  to  welcome  us,  and,  with  his  people, 
had  since  been  very  useful,  suggested  that  a  present 
should  be  made  to  him.  This  was  reasonable ;  and  the 
Emir  received  an  aba  and  a  koofeeyah.  Among  other 
things,  we  had  provided  ourselves  in  Acre  with  articles 
of  Arab  wearing  apparel  for  occasions  like  the  present. 
In  this  country,  it  is  usual  to  pay  the  followers  of  a  sheikh 
for  services  in  money;  but  to  the  sheikh  himself,  a  present 
is  made.  With  much  other  judicious  advice,  the  Rev. 
Mr.  Smith  had  in  Beirut  cautioned  me  not  to  employ  the 
Arabs  of  one  tribe  as  guides  through  the  territories  of 
another. 

The  “  Uncle  Sam”  foundered,  notwithstanding  all  our 
exertions  to  keep  her  afloat.  Built  of  wood,  she  was  less 
elastic  than  our  metallic  boats,  and  the  thumps  upon  the 
rocks  which  only  indented  the  last,  shattered  her.  Thus 
ended  all  our  hopes  of  transporting  the  tents  from  place 
to  place  along  the  Dead  Sea,  and  thereby  protect  the 
party  from  the  dews  of  night.  In  every  evil,  however, 
there  is  an  antidote,  and  we  now  had  conclusive  proof  of 
the  superior  qualities  of  metallic  boats  for  such  service. 
Frame  boats,  constructed  even  in  the  strongest  manner, 
would  sooner  or  later  have  shared  the  fate  of  the  “  Uncle 
Sam.” 

Having  reconnoitred  in  the  morning  from  where  the 
boats  lay  to  the  Yermak,  we  went  immediately  after 


A  DIFFICULT  PASSAGE.  189 

breakfast  to  endeavour  to  bring  the  former  down.  With 
a  lofty  hill,  the  terminus  of  a  lateral  range  on  each  side, 
there  was  no  possibility  of  conveying  them  round  the 
falls,  and  we  had,  therefore,  to  shoot  them.  The  current 
was  too  strong  to  use  the  grapnel. 

At  10.15  A.  M.,  cast  off  and  shot  down  the  first  rapid, 
and  stopped  to  examine  more  closely  a  desperate-looking 
cascade  of  eleven  feet.  In  the  middle  of  the  channel  wras 
a  shoot  at  an  angle  of  about  sixty  degrees,  with  a  bold, 
bluff,  threatening  rock  at  its  foot,  exactly  in  the  passage. 
It  would  therefore  be  necessary  to  turn  almost  at  a  sharp 
angle  in  descending,  to  avoid  being  dashed  to  pieces. 
This  rock  was  on  the  outer  edge  of  the  whirlpool,  which, 
a  caldron  of  foam,  swept  round  and  round  in  circling 
eddies.  Yet  below  were  two  fierce  rapids,  each  about  150 
yards  in  length,  with  the  points  of  black  rocks  peering 
above  the  white  and  agitated  surface.  Below  them  again, 
within  a  mile,  were  two  other  rapids  —  longer,  but  more 
shelving  and  less  difficult. 

Fortunately  a  large  bush  was  growing  upon  the  left 
bank,  about  five  feet  up,  where  the  wash  of  the  water 
from  above  had  formed  a  kind  of  promontory.  By  swim¬ 
ming  across  some  distance  up  the  stream,  one  of  the  men 
carried  over  the  end  of  a  rope  and  made  it  fast  around 
the  roots  of  the  bush.  The  great  doubt  was  whether  the 
hold  of  the  roots  would  be  sufficient  to  withstand  the 
strain,  but  there  was  no  alternative.  In  order  not  to  risk 
the  men,  I  employed  some  of  the  most  vigorous  Arabs  in 
the  camp  to  swim  by  the  side  of  the  boats,  and  guide 
them,  if  possible,  clear  of  danger.  Landing  the  men, 
therefore,  and  tracking  the  Fanny  Mason  up  stream,  we 
shot  her  across,  and  gathering  in  the  slack  of  the  rope, 
let  her  drop  to  the  brink  of  the  cascade,  where  she 
fairly  trembled  and  bent  in  the  fierce  strength  of  the 
sweeping  current.  It  was  a  moment  of  intense  anxiety. 


190  SHOOTING  THE  CASCADES. 

The  sailors  had  now  clambered  along  the  banks  and  stood 
at  intervals  below,  ready  to  assist  us  if  thrown  from  the 
boat  and  swept  towards  them.  One  man,  with  me  in  the 
boat,  stood  by  the  line ;  a  number  of  naked  Arabs  were 
upon  the  rocks  and  in  the  foaming  water  gesticulating 
wildly,  their  shouts  mingling  with  the  noise  of  the  bois¬ 
terous  rapids,  and  their  dusky  forms  contrasting  strangely 
with  the  effervescing  flood,  and  four  on  each  side,  in  the 
water,  were  clinging  to  the  boat,  ready  to  guide  her  clear 
of  the  threatening  rock  if  possible. 

The  Fanny  Mason,  in  the  meanwhile,  swayed  from  side 
to  side  of  the  mad  torrent,  like  a  frightened  steed,  straining 
the  line  which  held  her.  Watching  the  moment  when 
her  bows  were  brought  in  the  right  direction,  I  gave  the 
signal  to  let  go  the  rope.  There  was  a  rush,  a  plunge,  an 
upward  leap,  and  the  rock  was  cleared,  the  pool  was 
passed,  and,  half  full  of  water,  with  breathless  velocity, 
we  were  swept  safely  down  the  rapid.  Such  screaming 
and  shouting !  the  Arabs  seemed  to  exult  more  than  our¬ 
selves.  It  was  in  seeming  only,  they  were  glad ;  but  we 
were  grateful.  Two  of  the  Arabs  lost  their  hold  and 
were  carried  far  below  us,  but  were  rescued  with  a  slight 
injury  to  one  of  them. 

It  was  exactly  twelve  o’clock  when  we  cleared  the  cas¬ 
cade.  Mr.  Aulick  soon  followed  in  the  “  Fanny  Skin¬ 
ner,”  and  by  his  skill  and  coolness  passed  down  in  perfect 
safety. 

Stopping  sufficiently  long  to  give  the  men  and  the 
Arabs  who  had  assisted  us  some  warm  coffee,  we  started 
again  at  .45  P.  M.,  and  at  one  o’clock  had  completed  the 
descent  of  the  third  rapid  to¬ 
ll  and  s. 

At  1.45,  passed  down  the  fourth  fall  and  a  shelving 
rapid  of  one  third  of  a  mile.  Hauled  over  to  the  right 
bank,  just  above  a  shelving  rapid,  with  a  yet  more  ugly 


day.  Hard  work  for  all 


IL 


191 


RIVER  YARMAK. 

.sheer  at  an  abrupt  angle,  and  waited  for  the  “  Fanny 
Skinner.”  Sent  for  the  arms,  and  gave  directions  for  the 
caravan  to  proceed  to  Jisr  el  Mejamia  (bridge  of  place 
of  meeting),  about  three  miles  distant  by  land,  but  much 
farther,  and  far  more  difficult,  by  the  river.  It  was  repre¬ 
sented  by  our  friends  as  the  only  place  where  the  caravan 
and  boats  could  meet  that  night,  and  where,  in  the 
opinion  of  Sherif,  yet  greater  difficulties  awaited  us. 

Gathered  some  geological  specimens,  and  afterwards, 
as  our  awnings,  sails,  &c.,  had  been  left  in  the  camp  to 
lighten  the  boats,  and  the  sun  was  beginning  to  warm 
up,  I  took  shelter  under  an  oleander  bush  in  full  bloom. 
But  its  fragrance  above  (for  the  oleander  is  here  frag¬ 
rant)  scarce  compensated  for  the  annoyance  of  the  insects 
beneath  it.  Soon,  from  sheer  fatigue,  I  fell  asleep,  and 
was  awakened  by  the  sun  shining  full  upon  me.  We 
here  saw  some  wire-grass  for  the  first  time.  The  water 
had  a  sweet  taste. 

At  2.30,  the  caravan  passed  about  a  mile  off,  a  camel 
being  detached  towards  us  with  our  arms.  When  it  came 
up,  as  all  the  arms  had  been  packed  away,  I  imprudently 
consented  to  let  them  be  carried  back  to  the  caravan, 
taking  out  only  a  few  weapons  that  were  convenient.  At 
3.15,  saw  the  caravan  again,  creeping  along  the  crest  of 
the  high  hills  to  the  southward,  in  an  extended  and  pic¬ 
turesque  line.  There  is  no  road ; — in  other  words,  no 
camel  or  mule  track. 

At  3.50,  the  u  Fanny  Skinner”  came  down,  and  we 
descended  the  fourth  rapid,  rounding  back  from  W.  S.  W. 
to  S.  E.  by  S.  in  a  distance  of  ninety  yards.  4  P.  M., 
shot  the  equally  circuitous  but  less  difficult  rapid  below. 

At  4.20,  passed  the  mouth  of  the  Yermak  (Iliero- 
max),  forty  yards  wide,  with  moderate  current,  its  centre 
bearing  E.  i  S.  4.22,  passed  an  island  twelve  feet  high, 
covered  with  grass  and  weeds.  4.48,  a  small  island — 


ft 


192 


VIEW  FROM  A  HILL-TOP. 


river  very  rapid  —  abreast  of  this  island  was  the  most 
perilous  part  of  our  passage,  owing  to  great  velocity  of 
current,  about  twelve  miles  an  hour,  and  some  sunken 
rocks,  one  of  which  we  escaped  by  about  two  inches. 

At  4.32,  stopped  to  examine  a  bend  of  the  river.  4.45, 
rounded  the  bend,  a  bold,  precipitous  cliff  on  the  left,  a 
flat  peninsula  on  the  right,  covered  with  luxuriant  grass 
and  weeds — some  resembling  the  cheat,  and  others  the 
timothy.  At  4.55,  a  very  steep  and  tumultuous  rapid. 
On  hands  and  knees  I  climbed  an  almost  perpendicular 
hill-side  to  examine  for  a  passage.  The  hill-side  and 
summit  were  thickly  clothed  with  grass  and  flowers, 
which  rendered  it  very  slippery  to  climb. 

The  hill  was  about  three  hundred  feet  high,  and  the 
view  from  the  summit  wild  and  peculiar.  The  high  allu¬ 
vial  terraces  on  each  side  were  everywhere  shaped  by  the 
action  of  the  winter  rains  into  a  number  of  conical  hills, 
some  of  them  pyramidal  and  cuniform,  presenting  the  ap¬ 
pearance  of  a  giant  encampment,  so  perfectly  tent-like 
were  their  shapes.  This  singular  configuration  extends 
southward  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach.  At  intervals  I 
caught  a  glimpse  of  the  river  in  its  graceful  meanderings, 
sometimes  glittering  like  a  spear-head  through  an  opening 
in  the  foliage  of  its  banks,  and  again,  clasping  some  little 
island  with  its  shining  arms,  or,  far  away,  snapping  with 
the  fierceness  and  white  foam  of  a  torrent  by  some  pro¬ 
jecting  point. 

Fortunately  there  were  some  bushes  on  the  right  bank, 
which  determined  me  to  attempt  the  descent.  Bearing 
the  boats  as  far  down  as  we  could  hold  them  against  the 
current,  we  fastened  the  end  of  a  rope  to  a  bush  and 
lowered  them  down  to  near  its  end ;  then  sheering  in 
shore,  fastened  the  rope  to  another  bush,  lowered  away, 
and  dropped  through  one  of  the  most  frightful  rapids  we 
had  yet  encountered.  It  was  near  sunset  when  both 


A  RUINED  KHAN. 


193 


boats  bad  accomplished  the  passage,  and  it  became  neces¬ 
sary  in  so  wild  a  country  to  make  every  exertion  to  reach 
our  friends,  for  we  had  but  one  carbine  and  three  pistols 
with  us. 

After  shooting  two  more  slight  rapids,  we  came,  at 
6.15,  in  sight  of  Jisr  Mejamia  (bridge  of  the  place  of 
meeting),  above  which  we  landed  on  the  right  shore,  and 
ascended  the  cliff  to  examine  the  fall  and  rapid  immedi¬ 
ately  below. 

A  ruined  khan  crowned  the  crest  of  the  hill,  at  the  foot 
of  which  large  masses  of  volcanic  rock  or  tufa  were  lying 
about,  as  if  shaken  from  the  solid  mass  by  the  spasm  of 
an  earthquake.  The  khan  had  evidently  been  a  solid 
structure  and  destroyed  by  some  convulsion,  so  scattered 
were  the  thick  and  ponderous  masses  of  masonry.  The 
bridge  gracefully  spans  the  river  at  this  point.  It  has 
one  large  and  three  smaller  Saracenic  arches  below,  and 
six  smaller  ones  above  them,  four  on  the  east  and  two  on 
the  west  side.  The  river,  deep,  narrow,  and  impetuous, 
flows  through  the  larger  arch  and  immediately  branches, — 
the  left  arm  rushing  down  a  nearly  perpendicular  fall  of 
about  eight  feet,  and  scarce  a  boat’s  length  ahead  encoun¬ 
ters  the  bold  rock  of  the  eastern  bank,  which  deflects  it 
sharply  to  the  right.  The  right  branch,  winding  by  an 
island  in  the  centre,  and  spreading  over  a  great  space,  is 
shallow  and  breaks  over  a  number  of  rocks. 

Above  and  below  the  bridge  and  in  the  bed  of  the 
river  are  huge  blocks  of  trap  and  conglomerate ;  and  al¬ 
most  immediately  opposite  is  a  great  fissure  exposing  per¬ 
pendicular  layers  of  basalt,  the  structure  distinct,  black, 
and  porous.  Upon  the  left  bank,  which  is  about  sixty 
feet  above  the  river,  a  short  distance  up,  were  twenty  or 
thirty  black  Bedawin  tents,  with  a  number  of  camels 
grazing  around, — the  men  seated  in  groups  —  the  women, 
the  drudges  of  each  tribe,  passing  to  and  fro,  busied  appa- 
17  N 


I 


194 


ANCIENT  BRIDGE. 


rently  in  culinary  preparations,  and  near  them  some  chil¬ 
dren  playing.  We  decided  to  try  the  right  branch,  for 
we  dreaded  these  ugly  leaps. 

In  some  instances  during  the  day  the  rapids  had  been 
perfect  cataracts,  down  which  the  boats  plunged  with 
such  velocity  as  to  drive  them  over  the  rocks  below,  upon 
which  they  would  otherwise  have  rested,  from  the  shal¬ 
lowness  of  the  water. 

At  6.24,  resumed  the  oars,  shot  through  the  main  arch 
and  down  about  two  hundred  yards  of  the  descent  to  the 
right,  when  it  becoming  too  dark,  hauled  to  the  bank  and 
made  fast  for  the  night.  Took  everything  out  of  the 
boats  and  proceeded  with  the  crews  to  the  camp,  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  below.  Our  main  course  had  been 
S.  S.  W.,  but  the  river  was  very  serpentine.  We  descended 
three  very  threatening  and  four  less  difficult  rapids.  The 
only  tributary  passed  was  the  Yermak,  coming  in  from* 
the  east,  as  wide  and  as  deep  nearly  as  the  Jordan.  The 
current  was  very  rapid,  averaging  eight  miles  per  hour. 

Our  tents  were  pitched  upon  a  small  promontory,  com¬ 
manding  a  fine  view  of  the  ruined  khan  and  the  bridge, 
with  the  river  dashing  and  foaming  through  its  arch. 
Directly  in  front,  the  river,  filled  with  fragmentary  rocks, 
is  quite  wide,  and,  separating  into  several  channels,  forms 
some  small  sedgy  islands,  where  snipe  were  flitting  about, 
and  discordant  frogs  were  croaking. 

The  bridge  is  on  the  road  from  Nabulus,  through  Bei- 
san,  to  Damascus.  The  second  place,  now  in  ruins,  was 
the  Bethsean  of  the  Bible  and  Scytliopolis  of  the  Greeks. 
Saul  and  his  three  sons,  after  the  defeat  of  Mount  Gilboa, 
threw  themselves  upon  their  swords,  and  their  bodies 
were  exposed  from  the  walls  of  this  town. 

“  Mejamia  ’  means  “  place  of  meeting.”  Can  this  be 
the  place  called  by  Jacob,  “Mahanaim”  (place  of  meet- 
ing),  where  the  angels  of  God  met  him? 


A  NOBLE  ARAB. 


195 


At  noon  to-day  the  thermometer  stood  at  90°  in  the 
shade.  The  elder  sherif  (who  by  way  of  distinction  we 
call  the  sherif)  and  ’Alul  frequently  visited  us  in  our  tent. 
The  former  was  our  counsellor,  sagacious  and  prudent; 
the  latter  was  the  bold  warrior  and  the  admirable  scout. 
On  the  march,  it  was  said  that  he  contrived  to  get  a  sight 
of  the  boats  when  no  one  else  could.  We  never  tired  of 
the  company  of  this  graceful  savage.  Altogether,  he  was 
the  most  perfect  specimen  of  manhood  we  had  seen. 
Looking  at  his  fine  face,  almost  effeminate  in  its  regu¬ 
larity  of  feature,  who  would  imagine  that  he  had  been 
the  stern  leader  of  revolt,  and  that  his  laughing,  careless 
eye  had  ever  glanced  from  his  stronghold  on  the  hill  upon 
the  Pasha’s  troops  in  the  plain,  meditating  slaughter  in 
their  ranks  and  booty  from  the  routed  Turk ;  or  searched 
the  ravines  and  the  hill-sides,  the  wady  and  the  valley, 
for  the  lurking  fellahin  and  their  herds  ?  That  arm 
which,  in  its  easy  and  graceful  position,  seemed  almost 
nerveless,  had  wielded  the  scimitar  with  fatal  strength ; 
and  he ,  seemingly  so  mild,  had  successfully  led  a  small 
but  desperate  band  against  the  authority  of  the  sultan, 
and  forced  the  governor  of  Acre  to  treat  with  him,  and 
purchase  the  security  of  the  district  with  a  high  office 
and  the  crimson  pelisse  of  honour. 

’Akil  did  not  excel  in  physical  qualities  alone;  his 
intelligence  was  far  above  mediocrity;  and  although  a 
barbarian,  he  had  much  of  the  manners  and  feelings  of  a 
gentleman.  Indeed,  we  had  never  seen  manners  more 
courtly,  or  an  address  more  winning,  than  his.  Sherif 
was  the  Nestor,  and  ’Akll  the  Achilles,  of  our  camp. 

When  ’Akil  was  this  evening  asked  why  he  did  not 
settle  down  on  some  of  the  fertile  lands  in  his  district, 
and  no  longer  live  on  pillage,  his  reply  was,  “  Would  you 
have  me  disgrace  myself,  and  till  the  ground  like  one  of 
the  fellahin  ?” 


196 


RUINS  OF  GADARA 


When  I  told  him  that  many  of  our  most  eminent  men 
were  tillers  of  the  ground,  his  smile  was  more  of  a  con¬ 
temptuous  one  than  we  had  ever  seen  upon  his  handsome 
features.  This  genuine  barbarian  owned  a  small  pistol, 
which  he  has  been  known  to  give  loaded  to  his  children 
for  a  plaything. 

We  were  all  fatigued,  and  retired  early  to  our  hard  but 
welcome  beds.  The  moon  was  almost  at  her  full,  and 
the  same  wild  scene  of  Arabs’  tents,  tethered  horses,  and 
watch-fires,  with  the  strange,  monotonous,  song  of  the  Be- 
dawin  bard,  formed  a  repetition  of  last  night’s  romance. 
Early  in  the  evening,  Dr.  Anderson  returned.*  In  the 

*  The  following  is  an  extract  from  Dr.  Anderson’s  notes  of  his  visit  to 
the  ruins  of  Gadara : — 

“At  9.15  A.  M.,  left  to  visit  Um  Keis.  Trap  exposed  at  the  banks  of 
the  Jordan.  Ascended  the  plain  on  the  east  side,  in  a  south-easterly  direc¬ 
tion  at  first.  Crossed  the  Sheriat  el  Mandur,  by  a  bridge  in  good  preserva¬ 
tion,  called  Jisr  el  Ahmar.  The  sides  of  the  stream  rocky  and  water-worn 
— trap,  with  basaltic  fissures.  Water  running  with  rapid  current.  Occa¬ 
sionally  cascades. 

“  10.15.  Apparently  in  the  middle  of  the  great  plain.  The  view  down 
the  Ghor  is  uninterrupted.  Atmosphere  very  clear.  Hermon  seen  on  right 
of  the  north  end  of  the  Ghor. 

“  10.50.  Had  crossed  the  great  plain  (terrace  ?).  The  southern  extremity 
of  the  Ghor  bears  S.  30°  W.  The  shores  of  the  Dead  Sea  faintly  visible. 
The  surface  of  the  plain  a  brown,  loamy  soil.  Vegetation  very  rank. 

“  11.02.  Half-way  up  the  bluff,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Jordan,  limestone 
and  trap. 

“11.15.  On  the  plain,  near  the  summit.  View  of  Lake  Tiberias  and 
town. 

“  11.19.  Saw  on  right  of  road  two  fallen  columns,  formed  of  a  conglo 
merate  rock. 

“  11.30.  On  right  of  Wady  el  ’Arab,  many  Butin  trees  (Pistacia  tere- 
binthus). 

“  The  guides  brought  me  here,  frequent  specimens  of  esculent  roots, 
having,  the  most  of  them,  a  not  unpleasant  taste.  One  of  these  is  the  root 
of  a  plant  resembling  the  burdock,  which  they  called  rejateh.  It  tastes 
something  like  a  young  and  very  tender  radish,  without  its  pungency. 


RUINS  OF  GADARA. 


197 


forenoon,  the  weather  was  warm ;  towards  noon  it  clouded 
up  and  looked  like  rain,  but  in  the  evening,  cleared  away 
and  was  pleasant. 

We  are  in  the  land  of  Issachar,  that  of  Gad  still 
opposite. 

There  is  another,  resembling  this,  called  the  harfish,  tasting  a  little  like 
the  green  stalks  of  young  celery,  but  more  juicy  and  less  aromatic. 

u  11.53.  Fairly  on  the  summit-plain,  which  extends  horizontally  for 
miles  around.  The  rock  is  trap,  the  soil  good.  Our  course  was  here, 
E.  15°  N.  Cultivated  fields  of  barley. 

u  11.56.  Urn  Keis  in  sight,  east  of  us,  a  mile  or  more  distant. 

“  12.10.  The  road  runs  east;  then,  12.12,  E.  S.  E.  for  seven  minutes; 
then  east  again. 

“  12.20.  A  number  of  broken  and  fallen  columns  on  the  right  of  the 
road.  Some  of  conglomerate,  some  of  trap. 

“  Before  us,  a  descent  of  no  great  depth,  and  the  ruins  on  the  slope  east 
of  it. 

“  12.26.  Um  Keis.  No  inhabitants — no  habitable  buildings. 

“  The  remains  of  Gadara  occupy  an  eminence,  with  an  inconsiderable 
valley  on  the  west  side,  and  a  steeper  and  deeper  one  on  the  north.  The 
ground  southwardly  inclines,  with  some  undulations,  towards  the  Wady 
el  ’Arab. 

“  The  descent  on  the  north  is  determined  by  the  Wady  el  Yarmak. 
The  ruins  comprise  a  spacious  area,  covered  with  many  broken  columns, 
Sic.,  a  large  theatre,  a  smaller  inclosure,  and  a  necropolis. 

“  The  walls  may  be  traced  very  distinctly  on  the  west  side  of  the  great 
area,  and  less  obviously  on  the  east.  The  main  part  of  the  miscellaneous 
ruins  lies  north  of  the  theatre.  With  some  difficulty,  I  could  refer  the 
fragments  to  distinct  buildings,  and  distinguish  passages,  which  may  have 
been  determined  by  lanes  or  streets. 

“The  columns  are  principally  of  Hauran  basalt,  rudely  sculptured,  a 
few  still  standing  on  their  original  pedestals ;  some  are  of  a  calcareous 
conglomerate,  brought  from  the  neighbouring  hills.  Towards  the  N.  E., 
I  observed  a  few  sarcophagi.  The  ruins  here  are  so  buried  in  weeds  and 
brambles,  that  it  is  not  easy  to  make  them  out. 

“  The  theatre  has  the  form  of  a  half-oval,  the  longer  semi-axis  running 
nearly  east  and  west,  —  opening  on  the  west.  The  short  diameter,  or 
breadth  of  the  edifice,  measured  inside  of  the  inclosure,  is  about  eighty- 
feet;  including  the  inclosure,  about  120  feet. 

“  The  long  semi-diameter,  reckoning  from  the  rear  of  the  seats  to  the 

17* 


198 


RUINS  OF  GADARA. 


Thursday,  April  13.  Hearing  that  Muhammed  Pasha, 
military  governor  of  the  district  of  Nab  ulus,  was  encamped 
in  the  Valley  of  Esdraelon  (Jezrael?),  a  short  distance 
from  Beisan,  I  sent  Lieutenant  Dale,  this  morning,  to  call 
upon  him.  I  considered  this  a  becoming  mark  of  respect ; 

middle  of  the  open  part,  is  little  short  of  the  interior  breadth.  Fifteen 
steps,  or  seats,  separated  at  the  fifth  by  one  much  higher  than  the  others, 
ascend  from  the  arena  to  the  platform  of  the  inclosing  walls. 

u  At  the  upper  edge  of  each  step  is  a  cornice  of  several  inches  in  breadth. 
Every  part  of  this  building  appears  to  have  been  constructed  of  the  Hauran 
basalt,  which,  though  porous,  is  of  a  very  firm  texture.  The  seats  are  in¬ 
terrupted  by  five  passages,  converging  towards  the  centre  of  the  open 
space  below.  Beside  these  adits  are  the  remains  of  two  others,  correspond¬ 
ing  with  the  western  base. 

u  Exterior  to  the  seats  are  three  concentric  walls,  furnishing  a  covered 
corridor  of  eighteen  or  twenty  feet  width  within,  and  an  outer  opening  oc¬ 
cupied  by  staircases  ascending  to  the  upper  gallery  on  a  level  with  the 
hinder  seats.  The  lower  lobbies  are  arched,  where  necessary,  with  circular 
arches  formed  of  large  blocks.  On  the  walls  of  these  passages  I  observed 
frecpiently  single  letters  of  the  Roman  alphabet,  with  several  stones  marked 
with  Arabic  numerals,  and  not  unfrequently  stars,  crosses,  and  other  sym¬ 
bolic  characters  of  different  creeds  and  times. 

u  I  was  told  that  the  warm  springs  were  about  an  hour  and  a  half  dis¬ 
tant,  towards  the  N.  E.  The  necessity  of  returning  before  night  obliged 
me  reluctantly  to  give  up  the  idea  of  going  to  them.  They  have  been  de¬ 
scribed  by  Irby  and  Mangles,  Seetzen  and  Buckingham. 

u  From  the  brow  of  the  hill  there  is  a  fine  view  of  nearly  the  entire  lake 
of  Tiberias,  including  the  valley  of  the  Hieromax  in  the  foreground,  and 
Mount  Hermon  in  the  distance. 

u  4.40  P.  M.  We  descended  into  the  Ghor  by  the  path  we  had  taken  in 
going  up ;  but,  in  crossing  the  plain,  struck  a  course  south  of  the  morning 
track,  towards  a  point  where  we  expected  to  find  the  camp.  The  trap 
was  again  traceable  in  fragments,  gradually  diminishing  in  size  until  within 
a  half  hour’s  ride  of  the  Jordan.  On  the  eastern  cliff,  south,  if  I  remember, 
of  the  Wady  el ’Arab,  I  was  shown  the  village  of  Sidum’ad,  where  a  few 
fellahin,  by  the  payment  of  an  annual  tribute,  still  maintained  themselves 
against  the  encroachments  of  the  nomad  tribes.  Along  the  higher  hills, 
far  inwardly,  might  be  seen  two  or  three  clusters  of  black  tents,  belonging 
to  the  Bedawin  of  Es  Seru.  Down  the  Ghor,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach, 
a  forest  of  weeds  and  thistles  draw  from  the  teeming  soil  a  sustenance  that 


r  r 


PREPARATION  FOR  DEFENCE.  199 

for,  except  Sa’id  Bey,  the  Turkish  officers  have  been  very 
civil  to  us. 

Although  it  threatened  rain  yesterday,  this  morning’s 
sky  was  cloudless.  After  much  labour  we  succeeded  in 
getting  the  boats  down  the  rapids  uninjured,  except  a 
few  indentations  in  the  bilge,  and  got  on  board  the  arms 
and  instruments.  At  9.30,  started  at  the  same  time  with 
the  caravan.  As  we  would  to-day  reach  the  utmost 
limits  of  cultivation,  and  approach  the  lower  Glior  —  a 
perfect  desert,  traversed  by  warlike  tribes,  —  Sherif 
warned  me  to  be  prepared.  I  therefore  mounted  the 
blunderbuss  on  the  bows  of  the  Fanny  Mason.  Formi¬ 
dable  it  must  have  looked,  with  its  gaping  mouth,  pointed 
down  stream,  and  threatening  slugs  and  bullets  to  all 
opponents. 

At  10.40,  came  to  an  ugly  rapid,  a  long,  thatched  hut 
on  the  right  bank.  Notwithstanding  all  our  efforts, 
the  Fanny  Mason  struck  and  broached-to,  broadside  on, 
against  the  rocks  beneath  the  surface,  and  was  thrown 
upon  her  bilge,  taking  in  a  quantity  of  water.  For  some 
moments,  I  feared  that  she  would  go  to  pieces ;  but,  all 
hands  jumping  overboard,  her  combined  strength  and 
buoyancy  carried  her  safely  over.  On  the  first  heights 
of  the  Ghor,  to  the  eastward,  is  the  village  Sidum’ad ; 
and  the  village  Jum’ah,  on  the  western  bank.  At  9.40, 
passed  the  village  of  Kaukab  el  Hauma,  visible  to  the 
west,  on  a  lofty  height,  which  presents  trap-rock  with 

might  have  fed  the  half  of  Palestine.  It  was  too  plain  that  we  had  reached 
a  land  where  property  was  a  crime. 

u  6.  The  descent  from  the  upper  terrace  of  the  Ghor  to  the  present  val¬ 
ley  of  the  Jordan  is  here  a  gradual  one.  Very  near  the  stream  a  more 
sudden  change  of  level  is  apparent,  but  there  was  nothing  to  prevent  our 
coming  down  to  the  bridge  El  Mejami’ah  at  a  gallop.  On  both  sides  of 
the  river  the  polygonal  structure  of  the  rock  is  very  remarkable,  and  we 
passed  for  several  hundred  yards  over  the  uncovered  heads  of  enormous 
vertical  prisms  of  columnar  basalt.  The  upper  surface  was  excessively 
rough  and  uneven.” 


200 


INTENSE  HEAT. 


fissures.  10.12,  a  rapid.  At  11.02,  we  heard  a  small 
tributary  falling  in,  from  S.  E.  by  E.,  but,  owing  to  the 
thicket,  could  not  see  it.  A  village  in  sight  on  a  hill 
far  to  S.  E.' 

There  are  evidently  two  terraces  to  the  Jordan,  and 
through  the  lowest  one,  the  river  runs  its  labyrinthine 
course.  From  the  stream,  above  the  immediate  banks, 
there  is,  on  each  side,  a  singular  terrace  of  low  hills,  like 
truncated  cones ;  the  upper  terrace  of  which  I  have 
spoken ;  which  is  but  the  bluff  terminus  of  an  extended 
table-land,  reaching  quite  to  the  base  of  the  mountains  of 
Hauran  on  the  east,  and  the  high  hills  on  the  western 
side.  Their  peculiarity  of  form  is  attributable,  perhaps, 
to  the  washing  of  rain  through  a  long  series  of  years. 
The  hill-sides  presented  the  appearance  of  chalk,  without 
the  slightest  vestige  of  vegetation,  and  were  absolutely 
blinding,  from  the  reverberated  sunlight. 

At  times  we  would  be  perfectly  becalmed,  the  trees 
and  bushes  which  lined  the  banks  intercepting  the  light 
air  that  came  down  from  the  mountains ; — when,  even  at 
this  early  season,  the  heat  would  be  intense ;  and  the 
birds,  ceasing  to  sing,  hid  themselves  among  the  foliage, 
from  which  even  the  noise  we  made  could  not  startle 
them. 

There  is  nothing  more  vivid  than  the  impression  made 
by  such  scenes — the  stillness  of  an  untrodden  wilderness, 
when  “  the  slightest  sound  makes  an  onslaught  upon 
silence,” — a  silence  rarely  broken,  except  by  the  noise  of 
the  far-distant  rapid,  which  comes  upon  the  ear  like  the 
wind  when  it  sweeps  the  dry  leaves  of  autumn  before  it. 

On  one  of  these  occasions,  when  the  stream  was  sha¬ 
dowed  by  the  graceful  oleander,  the  low,  drooping  willow 
and  the  fern-like  tamarisk,  and  a  stillness  audible  pre¬ 
vailed,  we  were  swept  sharply  round  the  base  of  a  high 
barren  bluff,  towards  the  opposite  shore,  when  it  became 


CHANGE  OF  CLIMATE. 


201 


necessary  to  pull  out  again  into  the  channel.  In  so 
doing,  the  water-worn  banks  distinctly  echoed  the  steady 
beat  of  the  oars  in  the  rullocks ;  but  it  was  soon  after  lost 
in  the  hoarse  murmur  of  the  rapid  we  were  approaching, 
which  went  surging  over  the  shallows  in  its  burly,  blus¬ 
tering  course. 

At  11.20,  passed  an  island  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
long,  with  many  trees  upon  it.  A  singular  gap  in  the 
mountains  to  the  southward. 

Heretofore  the  course  of  the  river  had  varied  to  every 
quarter  of  the  compass,  but  to-day  it  preserved  a  more 
southerly  direction.  The  prevailing  growth  upon  the 
banks  were  the  ghurrah  (like  the  aspen),  the  turfa 
(tamarisk),  sifsaf  (willow),  and  difleh  (oleander).  The 
principal  flowers  had  been  the  bisbas  (yellow),  and  the 
baghuk  (a  crimson  one). 

At  11.25,  Castle  Kaukab  (star),  the  Bel  voir  of  the 
crusaders,  bore  W.  by  N.  Soon  after  reached  Zor  el  Ba- 
sha,  the  territories  of  the  tribe  el  Gaurineh  (Emir  Nas- 
sir’s),  occupying  two  hours  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  and 
numbering  three  hundred  fighting  men.  11.40,  stopped 
to  take  observations  for  the  latitude. 

There  were  many  wild  pigeons  flying  about,  some  of 
them  very  large.  At  12.09,  started  again;  passed  two 
successive  but  slight  rapids,  with  many  trees  in  the 
stream.  12.30,  stopped  to  rest  in  a  grove  of  tamarisk; 
the  weather  becoming  warmer  every  day.  We  were 
changing  our  climate  in  a  twofold  manner,  by  descent  and 
by  progress  southward.  We  found  here  the  “  derukma,” 
a  pleasant  tasted  vegetable,  with  flat  seeds  growing  at 
the  extremities  of  the  branches.  The  seeds  are  the  parts 
eaten.  We  also  found  the  ghumsilan,  a  root  resem¬ 
bling  a  parsnep,  of  a  pale-brown  colour ;  it  is  not  edible ; 
and  sufan,  a  dry,  brown  fungus,  adhering  to  a  tree. 

2  P.  M.  Started  again,  the  river  becoming  serpentine — 


202  COMMOTION  AMONG  ARABS. 

course,  all  round  the  compass.  A  great  many  Arabs  on 
the  shore,  who  ran  after  us,  shouting  loudly.  They  were 
the  subjects  of  the  Emir.  Some  Arab  women  on  a  high 
hill  to  the  left.  The  river  thirty-five  yards  wide,  six  feet 
deep,  gravelly  bottom;  current,  five  knots.  2.18,  four 
Arabs  in  sight ;  current  strong  but  unobstructed.  2.39, 
remarkably  smooth  but  rapid  descent.  2.41,  river  very 
serpentine,  five  feet  deep ;  a  beautiful  strip  of  variegated 
sands  and  marls ;  passed  a  wady,  or  dry  ravine,  on  the 
right.  2.46,  course  S.  W.  to  W.  by  N.,  thick  canes  and 
thistles  ;  water  appeared  to  have  fallen  two  feet  within 
the  last  day  or  two;  steady  descent.  2.58,  the  land 
ahead  worn  into  small  mounds ;  we  saw  a  beautiful  land- 
bird — brown  body,  white  wings  tipped  with  black,  and  a 
white  ring  round  the  neck,  and  at  root  of  tail.  Large 
rolled  stones  on  the  banks,  alternating  with  clay  and 
sand. 

For  the  last  hour,  we  had  seen  no  rocks.  At  3.15,  a 
small  rapid,  the  river  running  from  left  to  right,  across 
the  valley.  On  the  right,  a  round  point  with  an  Arab 
encampment  upon  it,  the  population  in  an  uproar ;  men, 
women,  and  children  shouting,  and  running  down  to  the 
landing-place;  passed  a  small  island  just  below. 

At  3.15,  along  reach  in  the  river;  the  first  straight 
line  we  have  seen  in  its  entire  course,  thus  far.  Passed 
the  territory  of  the  tribe  Es  Sukr  el  Ghor,  500  fighting 
men.  There  were  large  ghurrah  trees  on  each  side.  They 
are  like  the  aspen,  and  are  said  to  bear  a  juicy,  sweet- 
flavoured  fruit.  There  were  many  birds  on  shore,  and 
several  fish-hawk  (hedda)  flying  about.  At  6.10,  a 
cluster  of  small  islands;  and  at  6.30,  a  number  of  short 
turns  in  the  river.  Saw  ’Akll,  our  tutelary  genius,  on 
the  summit  of  a  high  bank.  Brough t-to  for  the  night, 
and  secured  the  boats.  The  banks  were  high  and  pre¬ 
cipitous,  but  guarded  in  some  measure  from  the  erosive 


THE  LAND  OF  ISSACHAR. 


203 


action  of  the  swift  current  by  the  gnarled  roots  of  the 
trees  and  the  thicket  growth  along  the  bluff.  Just  above 
and  below  this  spot,  which  was  selected  for  our  camping- 
ground,  the  river  describes  a  series  of  frantic  curvilinears, 
and  returns  in  a  contrary  direction  to  its  main  course, 
thus  forming  a  peninsula ;  and  the  isthmus,  now  rapidly 
wearing  away  on  both  sides,  bids  fair  speedily  to 
become  an  island.  The  boats  were  secured  to  the  right 
bank,  thirty  feet  below  the  summit.  We  have  descended 
to-day  three  large  and  seven  small  rapids ;  general  course, 
S.  by  E.  We  passed  one  small  stream  coming  in  from 
south-east,  and  four  small  islands.  The  river  averaged 
forty-five  yards  width,  four  feet  deep,  and  five  knots 
current. 

We  were  yet  in  Galilee,  in  the  land  of  Issachar;  oppo¬ 
site  was  Gilead,  the  land  of  Gad.  The  caravan  started 
with  us  this  morning,  ’Akil  and  his  scouts  acting  as 
guides.  As  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  the  plain  extended 
before  them ;  the  course  of  the  river  distinctly  distinguish¬ 
able  in  some  of  its  mazes  and  graceful  sinuosities,  and 
again  hidden  by  some  bold  bluff  or  conical  hill,  at  the 
base  of  which  it  turned  abruptly,  and  left  them  in  doubt 
whether  it  flowed  north,  east,  south,  or  west. 

They  first  passed  some  cultivated  patches  of  wheat  and 
barley,  even  at  this  early  season  looking  ripe,  and  nearly 
ready  for  the  harvest.  Who  would  reap  them?  Not  a 
human  being  was  in  the  scope  of  vision;  nor  tent,  nor 
hut,  nor  sight  of  human  dwelling.  There  was  no  sound, 
save  the  rush  of  the  river  and  the  noise  of  the  wind,  as  it 
swept  over  the  nodding  grain — a  yellow  sea !  where  light 
seemed  chasing  shadows  as  the  breeze  passed  over.  And 
yet,  the  hands  that  planted  would  come  to  reap  them  in 
the  season, — if  not  anticipated  by  the  spoiler.  The  wheat 
and  the  barley  would  fall  before  the  sickle,  and  the  hands 
of  the  gleaner  be  busy  in  the  steps  of  the  reaper;  the 


204 


A  STERILE  PLAIN. 


tents  would  be  spread  by  the  river-side,  and  tbe  young 
and  the  old,  the  strong  and  the  feeble,  the  youth  and  the 
young  girl,  would  be  abroad  in  those  silent  fields.  And 
when  the  sheaves  are  bound  with  the  withes,  and  the 
unmuzzled  ox  has  trodden  out  the  golden  grain,  or  the 
threshing  sledge  has  been  trailed  round  the  slippery  croft, 
and  the  light  wind  has  winnowed  the  uptossed  wheat, — 
then,  all  their  wealth  close  reaped  and  gleaned,  once 
more,  upon  their  waste,  unsheltered  fields,  will  settle 
silence  and  the  desert  heat. 

The  first  hour  of  their  journey,  which  was  through  a 
most  beautiful  tract  of  alluvial,  the  country  was  entirely 
destitute  of  cultivation ;  nothing  but  a  rank  luxuriance 
of  thistles  and  wild  grass  indicating  the  natural  produc¬ 
tiveness  of  the  soil.  The  variety  of  thorns  and  thistles 
was  remarkable. 

Along  the  banks  of  the  river  ran  a  singular  terrace  of 
low  hills,  in  shape  like  truncated  cones,  which  extended 
quite  to  the  base  of  the  mountains. 

From  thistles  and  wild  grass,  they  advanced  into  utter 
barrenness  and  desolation ;  the  soil  presenting  the  appear¬ 
ance  of  chalk,  without  the  slightest  vegetation.  Around, 
and  quite  near,  were  large  flocks  of  storks,  walking  with 
exceeding  vanity,  and  in  no  manner  alarmed  or  discon¬ 
certed  ;  some  even  stood  on  one  leg,  in  quiet  contempla¬ 
tion  of  the  unusual  spectacle  which  the  caravan  presented. 

At  one  time,  they  stopped  to  rest ;  and,  seated  in  the 
wilderness,  the  fierce  sun  beat  upon  their  heads,  and 
glittered  on  the  barrels  of  their  guns,  until  they  became 
painful  to  sight  and  touch.  Not  a  tree,  nor  a  shelter 
from  the  heat,  in  that  vast  plain !  but  up  from  the  parched 
and  blasted  earth  went  streaming,  like  visible  air,  the 
waving,  heated  atmosphere ;  and  the  whole  extent  of  land, 
to  the  deep-rooted  hills  in  the  purple  distance,  was  quiver¬ 
ing  with  the  heat. 


Starting  afresh,  a  short  ride  brought  them  once  more 
near  the  banks  of  the  river,  down  to  which  they  turned 
their  horses.  It  was  almost  impossible  to  restrain  the 
thirsty  brutes.  At  the  sight  and  sound  of  the  flowing 
river,  they  dashed  down  the  slope,  plunged  through  the 
thicket,  and,  standing  mid-leg  in  the  stream,  thrust  in 
their  heads  to  the  very  eyes,  and  drank  till  their  whole 
frame  shook  with  the  action. 

The  day  was  considerably  advanced  when  they  came 
in  sight  of  an  encampment  of  black  tents.  Diverging 
from  their  line  of  march,  they  ascended  the  steep  bank  tc 
an  elevated  plain,  upon  which  the  encampment  stood. 
Several  of  the  tribe  came  to  meet  them,  bearing  the  tufted 
spear,  which  indicates  the  sheikh  himself  or  some  of  his 
sons.  Dismounting,  they  entered  the  tent  pointed  out  to 
them,  where  mats  were  spread,  and  coffee  and  pipes  in 
readiness,  indicating  an  expectation  of  their  arrival. 

u  Pottle-bellied  children,”  with  hair  unkempt  and 
streaming  in  a  scalp-lock  (the  rest  of  the  head  close- 
shaven),  naked  as  cherubim  in  a  church  picture,  were 
rolling  on  the  grass  and  performing  other  gambols  pecu¬ 
liar  to  that  tender  age.  Soon  after,  the  old  men  and  the 
Badawiyeh  (female  Bedawin),  their  palms  and  finger¬ 
nails  tinged  with  henna,  and  their  cheeks  and  lips  tat¬ 
tooed  purple  by  the  kholl  powder,  came  forth  to  look  upon 
and  wonder  at  the  Franks.  Some  of  the  young  girls  would 
have  been  pretty,  were  it  not  for  the  disfiguring  tattoo, 
which  gave  the  lips  an  appearance  almost  revolting,  from 
its  resemblance  to  the  livid  hue  of  death.  Some  of  the 
young  men  of  the  tribe  were  cast  in  as  soft  and  delicate  a 
mould  as  manhood  is  susceptible  of,  without  leaning  to 
effeminacy.  The  brother  of  the  Emir  was  a  perfect  An- 
tindus,  with  Hyperian  locks  and  Apollonian  limbs,  who, 
however,  thought  more  of  his  personal  beauty  than  be¬ 
came  a  brave,  and  the  brother  of  a  warlike  sheikh. 

18 


206  A  PASTORAL  ENTERTAINMENT. 

The  encampment  consisted  of  some  thirty  or  forty  of 
those  peculiarly  constructed  tents,  made  of  coarse  cloth 
of  goats’  hair.  They  were  supported  by  a  row  of  poles  in 
the  centre  (for  they  are  not  shaped  like  the  ordinary 
tent),  the  sides  slightly  inclined  and  hauled  out  by  ropes 
which  are  pinned  to  the  ground.  In  shape  they  resemble 
somewhat  an  oblong  shed,  and  are,  generally  speaking, 
miserable  substitutes  for  a  shelter  or  dwelling. 

The  little  cup  (for  they  had  but  one,  apparently)  having 
been  artistically  cleansed  by  the  thumb  of  the  attendant 
Ganymede,  and  presented  to  each  in  turn  (the  Franks,  as 
guests,  having  the  precedence),  the  coffee  it  contained 
being  a  concentrated  essence  of  that  luxury,  pipes  were 
offered,  and  then  having,  as  usual,  submitted  to  be  stared 
at,  and  their  arms  handled  about  and  inspected  as  if  they 
were  at  muster,  water  was  brought  and  poured  upon  their 
hands  from  a  very  equivocal  water-jar,  after  which  fol¬ 
lowed  the  repast.  A  large  wooden  bowl  of  pilau  (boiled 
rice,  liberally  larded  with  rancid  butter)  constituted  this 
pastoral  banquet ;  the  enjoyment  of  which  could  not  be 
attained  through  the  medium  of  fork  or  spoon,  but  de¬ 
manded  a  kind  of  scientific  conversion  of  the  hands  and 
fingers  into  these  civilized  conveniences. 

An  hour’s  ride  thence  brought  them  to  the  end  of  the 
plain,  or  tabular  summit  of  the  low  range  of  sand-hills 
upon  which  the  encampment  they  had  visited  was  situ¬ 
ated.  Here  descending  the  precipitous  hill  to  the  plain 
or  terrace  below,  they  came  once  more  upon  the  banks  of 
the  Jordan.  Numerous  black  tents  occupied  the  green 
and  richly  cultivated  plain,  or  were  scattered  here  and 
there,  close  to  the  river  bluff,  half  hidden  by  the  pale 
green  willow  and  the  deeper  shadow  of  the  tamarisk. 
Here  they  pitched  the  tents  and  waited  for  the  boats  — 
the  whole  population  crowding  round  them  in  speechless 
admiration  of  all  that  transpired. 


Camp  E.  by  N.  from  Beisan,  which  was  two  hours 
distant. 

With  the  interpreter,  Mr.  Ameuny,  and  the  Arab  es¬ 
cort,  Mr.  Dale  had  started  at  an  early  hour  to  call  upon 
Muhammed  Pasha.  The  banks  of  the  Jordan,  he  reports, 
are  divided  into  two  regular  steps  or  terraces,  one  on  each 
side,  before  reaching  the  mountains  :  1st,  a  flat  through 
which  the  river  winds,  and  2d,  an  elevated  plain.  After 
passing  a  deep  ravine,  he  came  upon  the  Emir’s  wheat 
fields,  which  covered  the  sloping  plain  to  Beisan  •  the  soil 
a  rich  marl. 

Following  the  wady  (ravine)  towards  Beisan,  he  came 
to  quite  a  large  stream,  issuing  directly  from  the  base  of 
a  hill,  with  a  solitary  palm-tree  near  it ;  the  first  tree  of 
any  kind  he  saw  on  the  elevated  plain.  The  flat,  how¬ 
ever,  was  covered  with  trees.  This  spring  forms  an 
oasis,  and  is  called  Ain  es  Sauda,  the  black  spring. 

Instead  of  passing  through  the  ruins  of  Beisan,  he 
went  north,  about  a  mile  distant  from  them.  He  then 
came  in  sight  of  a  magnificent  valley,  filled  with  the 
Pasha’s  tents,  and  a  thousand  horses,  all  picketed  out  to 
graze. 

Muhammed  Pasha,  a  fat  Osmanlie,  received  him  frankly 
and  kindly.  He  said  he  was  about  to  move  his  command 
(one  thousand  Turkish  cavalry),  for  the  purpose  of  chas¬ 
tising  a  band  of  bad  Arabs  to  the  southward,  but  had 
delayed  his  march  on  our  account,  for  fear  of  exas¬ 
perating  them  to  some  attack  upon  us.  He  gave  him 
coffee,  pipes,  and  oranges,  and  insisted  upon  sending  ten 
horsemen  to  accompany  the  expedition  through  the  dan¬ 
gerous  territory. 

It  was  a  magnificent  sight,  the  camp  and  war-horses 
spread  over  this  beautiful  plain  of  Jezrael,  a  branch  of 
Esdraelon. 

After  a  long  talk  about  European  affairs,  in  which  the 


208  AN  UNDESIRED  ESCORT. 

interpreter  endeavoured,  quite  in  vain,  to  explain  to  him 
the  beauties  of  republicanism,  Mr.  Dale  took  his  depart¬ 
ure,  and  rode  through  the  ancient  city  of  Scythopolis,  or 
Beisan.  There  were  acres  of  building-stone,  old  walls, 
a  theatre,  &c.,  in  good  preservation.  A  few  columns  still 
stood  in  the  valleys.  Most  of  the  present  buildings  ap¬ 
peared  to  be  Saracenic,  mills  and  khans.  On  the  summit 
was  a  large  fortress-looking  building,  the  court  now  con¬ 
verted  into  a  cow-yard  by  the  Arabs,  who  have  formed  a 
village  round  it.  He  then  descended  to  the  plains,  pass¬ 
ing  through  two  or  three  collections  of  black  tents,  the 
possessions  of  the  Emir  Nassir. 

I  regretted  that  the  Pasha  had  sent  the  horsemen,  for 
their  presence  would  tend  more,  perhaps,  to  endanger 
than  to  aid  us ;  but,  as  it  was  meant  in  kindness,  it 
would  have  seemed  rude  to  send  them  immediately  back, 
particularly  as  the  march  of  the  Turkish  detachment 
had  been  delayed  on  our  account.  But  the  presence  of 
the  horsemen  increased  my  anxiety :  the  sight  of  them 
might  exasperate  the  Arabs,  and  I  had  no  faith  in  their 
courage  or  fidelity. 

The  Emir  insisted  upon  our  dining  with  him  this 
evening,  and  would  take  no  denial.  It  was  decided  that 
a  part  should  go,  and  a  part  remain  to  guard  the  camp. 
At  5,  the  former  set  out  to  partake  of  the  wild  Arab's 
hospitality  in  his  black  tent.  These  tents,  as  I  have 
said,  are  nothing  but  strips  of  black  cloth,  made  of  goats’ 
hair,  put  up  hut-fashion,  and  opening  in  front.  This 
cloth  is  coarse  and  porous,  but  is  said  to  swell  when  wet, 
and  thus  become  impervious  to  the  rain. 

When  we  arrived  at  their  encampment,  an  Arab 
woman  screamed  out  and  wept  bitterly  at  the  sight  of 
’Akll.  In  him  she  recognised  the  murderer  of  her  hus¬ 
band,  in  a  foray  the  previous  year.  If  ’Akil  felt  remorse, 
as  he  certainly  must  have  done,  he  possessed  too  much 


ARAB  VORACITY.  209 

of  the  stoicism  of  the  savage  to  let  it  become  ap¬ 
parent. 

Great  was  the  Emir’s  delight  at  our  visit,  and  more 
particularly  at  the  honour  of  receiving  a  lineal  descendant 
of  the  Prophet  in  his  tent.  He  exhibited  his  flocks  of 
sheep,  his  cows  (the  first  we  had  seen  on  the  Jordan),  his 
goats,  his  camels,  and  little  dirty  objects  which  he  called 
his  children.  There  was  the  children’s  pet,  a  beautiful 
young  camel,  three  months  old,  white  as  drifted  snow, 
with  hair  soft  and  fleece-like  as  wool. 

At  sunset,  a  young  man  wearing  a  white  turban,  pro¬ 
bably  a  mullah  (or  teacher),  spread  his  sheep-skin  jacket 
upon  the  ground,  and  stood  up  and  called  the  faithful  to 
prayer.  The  Sherif  and  four  others  formed  a  line  behind 
the  mullah,  who  led  the  recitations.  While  going  through 
their  prostrations,  like  a  file  of  soldiers,  the  others  were 
talking  as  usual. 

To  add  to  the  scene,  the  file  of  horsemen  sent  by  the 
Pasha,  on  their  w~ay  to  our  camp,  arrived  in  time  to  par¬ 
take  of  our  dinner,  just  then  brought  in.  It  consisted  of 
an  enormous  wooden  bowl,  filled  with  a  stew  of  mutton 
and  rice  for  the  Arabs,  and  a  smaller  one  for  ourselves. 
The  sheep  had  been  killed  and  dressed  immediately  in 
front  of  the  tent.  All  ate  with  their  hands, — the  Arabs 
gathering  up  small  balls  of  unctuous  rice,  and  fairly 
cramming  it  into  their  mouths.  The  ogre  prince  was  the 
most  voracious  of  all,  and,  instead  of  Guzzawy,  should  be 
called  Guzzle-away.  Hungry  as  we  were,  it  was  impos¬ 
sible  to  eat;  for,  although  a  separate  bowl  was  placed 
before  us,  we  had  seen  the  poor  sheep  killed,  and  had 
misgivings  of  the  cleanliness  of  the  cook.  The  most  we 
could  do,  was  to  affect  to  eat. 

It  was  a  wild  sight  after  dark,  to  see  groups  of  these 
ragged  Ghuarineh  seated,  in  front  of  the  encampment, 
around  a  blazing  fire. 

18* 


o 


210 


A  FALSE  ALARM. 


It  was  a  soft,  clear  night,  and  the  dew  fell  heavily  in 
the  mid-watch ;  and  the  bulbul  sang  a  low,  plaintive  song 
in  the  myrtle  thicket,  and  the  sentinels  walked  to  and  fro 
upon  the  bank,  which  was  wearing  away  beneath  them. 

u  Hark  !  their  heedless  feet  from  under, 

Drop  the  crumbling  banks  for  ever; 

Like  echoes  to  a  distant  thunder, 

They  fall  into  the  gushing  river.” 

“  Some  gentle  thing  has  heard  their  tread,”  for  there  was 
the  sound  of  wings,  and  a  quick,  shrill  cry,  growing  fainter 
and  fainter  in  the  distance.  This  sweet  hour  of  romance 
was  broken  in  upon  by  the  most  appalling  sounds :  — 
“To  arms!  to  arms!”  What  is  it?  Dr.  Anderson’s  horse 
has  made  a  foray  upon  his  unsuspicious  enemies. 


CHAPTER  X. 


FROM  FOURTH  CAMP  ON  THE  JORDAN  TO  THE 

FORD  OF  SEK’A. 

Friday,  April  14.  A  beautiful  morning;  but  several  of 
us  quite  sick.  Took  leave  of  the  caravan  for  the  day, 
and,  with  Sherif  and  the  Emir,  descended  to  the  boats  by 
the  aid  of  the  gnarled  and  tangled  roots  which  protruded 
from  the  face  of  the  bank;  and,  with  a  “push  off,”  “let 
fall,”  and  “give  way,”  we  shot  into  the  current,  and 
swept  away  before  the  eyes  of  the  wondering  Ghaurineh. 
Their  astonishment  at  beholding  our  boats,  and  our 
strange  appearance,  had  in  it  something  extremely  ludi¬ 
crous.  On  rising  at  an  early  hour  this  morning  (for  we 
were  generally  up  and  stirring  long  before  the  lagging 
sun),  we  found  the  whole  bank  lined  with  these  wonder¬ 
ing  barbarians,  who  were  lying  at  full  length  upon  the 
bluff,  with  their  heads  projecting  over  the  bank,  and 
looking  upon  the  floating  wonders  beneath ;  turning,  from 
time  to  time,  to  regard  the  race  to  whom  belonged  such 
rare  inventions,  such  famous  mechanism,  as  boats  and 
six-barrel  revolvers. 

The  boats  had  little  need  of  the  oars  to  propel  them,  for 
the  current  carried  us  along  at  the  rate  of  from  four  to  six 
knots  an  hour,  the  river,  from  its  eccentric  course,  scarcely 
permitting  a  correct  sketch  of  its  topography  to  be  taken. 
It  curved  and  twisted  north,  south,  east,  and  west,  turn¬ 
ing,  in  the  short  space  of  half  an  hour,  to  every  quarter 
of  the  compass,  —  seeming  as  if  desirous  to  prolong  its 

luxuriant  meanderings  in  the  calm  and  silent  valley,  and 

(211) 


212  SCENERY  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

reluctant  to  pour  its  sweet  and  sacred  waters  into  the 
accursed  bosom  of  the  bitter  sea. 

For  hours  in  their  swift  descent  the  boats  floated  down 
in  silence,  the  silence  of  the  wilderness.  Here  and  there 
were  spots  of  solemn  beauty.  The  numerous  birds  sang 
with  a  music  strange  and  manifold ;  the  willow  branches 
were  spread  upon  the  stream  like  tresses,  and  creeping 
mosses  and  clambering  weeds,  with  a  multitude  of  white 
and  silvery  little  flowers,  looked  out  from  among  them ; 
and  the  cliff  swallow  wheeled  over  the  falls,  or  went  at 
his  own  wild  will  darting  through  the  arched  vistas, 
shadowed  and  shaped  by  the  meeting  foliage  on  the 
banks ;  and,  above  all,  yet  attuned  to  all,  was  the  music 
of  the  river,  gushing  with  a  sound  like  that  of  shawms 
and  cymbals. 

There  was  little  variety  in  the  scenery  of  the  river  to¬ 
day.  The  stream  sometimes  washed  the  bases  of  the 
sandy  hills,  and  at  other  times  meandered  between  low 
banks,  generally  fringed  with  trees  and  fragrant  with 
blossoms.  Some  points  presented  views  exceedingly  pic¬ 
turesque  —  the  mad  rushing  of  a  mountain  torrent,  the 
song  and  sight  of  birds,  the  overhanging  foliage  and 
glimpses  of  the  mountains  far  over  the  plain,  and  here 
and  there  a  gurgling  rivulet  pouring  its  tribute  of  crystal 
water  into  the  now  muddy  Jordan.  The  western  shore 
was  peculiar,  from  the  high  calcareous  limestone  hills, 
which  form  a  barrier  to  the  stream  when  swollen  by  the 
efflux  of  the  sea  of  Galilee  during  the  winter  and  early 
spring;  while  the  left  or  eastern  bank  was  low,  and 
fringed  with  tamarisk  and  willow,  and  occasionally  a 
thicket  of  lofty  cane,  and  tangled  masses  of  shrubs  and 
creeping  plants,  giving  it  the  character  of  a  jungle.  At 
one  place,  we  saw  the  fresh  track  of  a  tiger  on  the  low 
clayey  margin,  wdiere  he  had  come  to  drink.  At  another 
time,  as  we  passed  his  lair,  a  wild  boar  started  with  a 


THE  BULBUL. 


213 


savage  grunt  and  dashed  into  the  thicket ;  but,  for  some 
moments,  we  traced  his  pathway  by  the  shaking  cane 
and  the  crashing  sound  of  broken  branches. 

The  birds  were  numerous,  and  at  times,  when  we 
issued  from  the  shadow  and  silence  of  a  narrow  and  ver¬ 
dure-tented  part  of  the  stream  into  an  open  bend,  where 
the  rapids  rattled  and  the  light  burst  in,  and  the  birds 
sang  their  wildwood  song,  it  was,  to  use  a  simile  of  Mr. 
Bedlow,  like  a  sudden  transition  from  the  cold,  dull- 
lighted  hall  where  gentlemen  hang  their  hats,  into  the 
white  and  golden  saloon,  where  the  music  rings  and  the 
dance  goes  on. 

The  hawk,  upon  the  topmost  branch  of  a  blighted  tree, 
moved  not  at  our  approach,  but 

“Stood  with  the  down  on  his  beak, 

And  stared  with  his  foot  on  the  prey 

and  the  veritable  nightingale  ceased  not  her  song,  for  she 
made  day  night  in  her  covert  among  the  leaves ;  and  the 
bulbul,  whose  sacred  haunts  we  disturbed  when  the  cur¬ 
rent  swept  us  among  the  overhanging  boughs,  but  cliir- 
rupped  her  surprise,  calmly  winged  her  flight  to  another 
sprig,  and  continued  her  interrupted  melodies. 

Unable  to  obtain  one  alive,  we  startled  the  solitude  of 
the  wilderness  with  a  gun-shot,  and  secured  the  body  of  a 
brown-breasted,  scarlet-headed  and  crimson-winged  bird, 
the  eastern  bulbul.  The  Arabs  call  a  pretty  bird  a  bul¬ 
bul,  but  Sherif,  who  was  with  me  in  the  boat,  insisted 
upon  it  that  it  was  the  specific  name  of  the  bird  we  had 
killed.  We  were  less  successful  with  others  of  the 
feathered  race,  for  although  the  sharp  crack  of  the  rifle 
and  the  louder  report  of  the  carbine  awoke  the  echoes  of 
the  Jordan  wilds,  no  other  trophy  than  this  unhappy 
bulbul  could  be  produced  when  we  met  at  night.  The 
gentle  creatures  seemed  each  to  bear  a  charmed  life,  for 


214 


MANAGEMENT  OF  THE  BOATS. 


when  we  fired  at  them,  they  would  spread  their  wings 
unhurt,  and  dart  into  the  thick  and  tangled  brushwood, 
and  burst  forth  again  in  song  from  a  more  hidden  covert; 
or  sometimes  just  rise  into  the  air  and  wheel  above  the 
broken  sprig,  or  torn  leaf,  to  settle  once  more  as  calmly 
as  if  the  noise  which  had  startled  them  were  but  the 
familiar  sound  of  the  breaking  of  a  dried  branch,  or  the 
plunge  of  a  fragment  of  the  soil  from  the  water-worn 
banks  into  the  current  below. 

Our  course  down  the  stream  was  with  varied  rapidity. 
At  times  we  were  going  at  the  rate  of  from  three  to  four 
knots  the  hour,  and  again  we  would  be  swept  and  hurried 
away,  dashing  and  whirling  onward  with  the  furious 
speed  of  a  torrent.  At  such  moments  there  was  excite¬ 
ment,  for  we  knew  not  but  that  the  next  turn  of  the 
stream  would  plunge  us  down  some  fearful  cataract,  or 
dash  us  on  the  sharp  rocks  which  might  lurk  unseen  be¬ 
neath  the  surface. 

For  the  reasons  I  have  before  stated,  the  Fanny  Mason 
always  took  the  lead,  and  warned  the  Fanny  Skinner 
when  danger  was  to  be  shunned  or  encountered.  When 
the  sound  of  a  rapid  was  distinct  and  near,  the  compass 
and  the  note-book  were  abandoned,  and,  motioning  to  the 
Fanny  Skinner  to  check  her  speed,  our  oars  began  to 
move  like  the  antennas  of  some  giant  insect,  to  svreep  us 
into  the  swiftest,  which  is  ever  the  deepest,  part  of  the 
current;  when  it  caught  us,  the  boat’s  crew  and  our 
Arab  friend  Jumali  (Friday)  leaped  into  the  angry 
stream,  accoutred  as  they  were,  and,  clinging  to  her  sides, 
assisted  in  guiding  the  graceful  Fanny  down  the  perilous 
descent.  In  this  manner  she  wras  whirled  on,  driving  be¬ 
tween  rocks  and  shallow's  with  a  force  that  made  her 
bend  and  quiver  like  a  rush  in  a  running  stream ; — then, 
shooting  her  through  the  foam  and  the  turmoil  of  the 
basin  below,  where,  in  the  seething  and  effervescing 


SAND-BANKS  AND  ISLANDS.  215 

water,  she  spun  and  twirled,  the  men  leaped  in,  and,  with 
oars  and  rudder,  she  was  brought  to  an  eddying  cove, 
from  whence,  by  word  and  gesture,  she  directed  her  sister 
Fanny  through  the  channel. 

Beyond  these  interruptions,  the  river  flowed  broad 
and  deep,  yet  maintaining  much  of  the  features  of  a 
torrent. 

Many  islands,  some  fairy-like,  and  covered  with  a 
luxuriant  vegetation,  others  mere  sand-bars  and  sedi¬ 
mentary  deposits,  intercepted  the  course  of  the  river,  but 
were  beautiful  features  in  the  general  monotony  of  the 
shores.  The  regular  and  almost  unvaried  scene  of  high 
banks  of  alluvial  deposit  and  sand-hills  on  the  one  hand, 
and  the  low  swamp-like  shore,  covered  to  the  water’s 
edge  with  the  tamarisk,  the  willow,  and  the  thick,  high 
cane,  would  have  been  fatiguing  without  the  frequent 
occurrence  of  sand-banks  and  verdant  islands.  High  up 
in  the  sand-bluffs,  the  cliff-swallow  (’asfur)  chattered  from 
his  nest  in  the  hollow,  or  darted  about  in  the  bright  sun¬ 
shine,  in  pursuit  of  the  gnat  and  the  water-fly. 

A  little  before  twelve  o’clock  we  stopped  to  take  a 
meridian  observation.  This  requiring  but  a  short  time, 
we  were  soon  on  our  way  again,  to  encounter  more  trials 
in  this  difficult  navigation.  As  the  evening  shadows 
lengthened  more  and  more  upon  the  stream,  we  repeat¬ 
edly  stopped  to  look  out  for  the  caravan.  The  Sherif  was 
evidently  very  uneasy.  On  each  occasion  the  faithful 
Jumah  was  our  scout,  but  he  never  landed  without 
putting  on  a  belt  with  a  brace  of  pistols.  He  returned, 
at  last,  with  the  intelligence  that  he  had  seen  the  caravan 
pursuing  its  march  in  the  distance,  and  we  continued  on 
our  way. 

The  loud  report  of  a  carbine  presently  echoed  among 
the  cliffs,  and  a  flock  of  storks  rose  from  the  margin  of 
the  river,  and  flew  past  us.  The  Sherif  had  wounded  one 


216 


AN  ARAB  HORSEMAN. 


poor  fellow,  and  his  leg  hung  shattered  and  dangling,  as 
he  strove  to  keep  up  with  his  frightened  companions. 
His  efforts  were  unavailing ;  the  movement  of  his  wings 
was  but  a  spasm  of  his  agony,  and  he  fell  in  the  water 
before  us.  The  stream  carrying  him  down,  threw  him 
on  a  low  marshy  bank,  where  the  poor  creature  was 
making  desperate  efforts  to  drag  himself  from  the  water, 
as  we  dashed  by  on  the  rapid  out  of  sight.  I  could  not 
refrain  from  telling  Sherif  that  it  was  a  pity  to  shoot  a 
bird  unfit  to  eat,  and  not  required  as  a  specimen,  and 
which,  by  the  Muhammedan  law,  was  regarded  as  a 
sacred  one. 

For  an  hour  or  more  we  swept  silently  down  the  river, 
and  the  last  tints  of  sunset  were  resting  on  the  summits 
of  the  eastern  mountains ;  wet  and  weary,  without  a 
change  of  clothes,  and  with  neither  tents  nor  provisions, 
we  began  to  anticipate  a  night  upon  the  river,  separated 
from  our  friends,  when,  at  a  turn,  we  beheld  a  horseman 
on  the  crest  of  a  high  hill,  his  long  aba  and  his  koofeeyeh 
streaming  in  the  wind.  To  our  great  delight  we  recog¬ 
nised  him  to  be  our  gallant  ’Akil.  He  descended  rapidly 
the  almost  perpendicular  hill-side !  None  but  an  Arab 
steed  and  rider  could  have  done  it ! 

The  brief  remainder  of  our  day’s  journey  was  rendered 
more  perilous  even  than  the  commencement,  from  the 
frequency  of  rapids  and  the  difficulty  of  navigation  in  the 
fast-fading  light.  The  swift  current,  as  we  sometimes 

r 

turned  a  point  of  land,  would  seize  us  and  send  us  off  at 
a  salient  angle  from  our  course,  as  if  it  had  been  lurking 
behind  that  point  like  an  evil  thing,  to  start  out  and 
clutch  us  suddenly  and  dash  us  upon  the  opposite  bank, 
or  run  us  under  the  low  hanging  boughs,  as  if  for  the 
purpose  of  rubbing  us  all  out ,  or  injuring  us  against  the 
gnarled  and  projecting  roots,  where  skulked  the  long 
clammy  earth-worm  and  the  green  lizard. 


— 


CHANGE  IN  THE  RIVER.  217 

The  scenery  became  also  more  wild  as  we  advanced ; 
and  as  night,  like  a  gloomy  Rembrandt,  came  throwing 
her  dark  shadows  through  the  mountain  gorges,  sobering 
down  the  bright  tints  upon  their  summits,  the  whole 
scene  assumed  a  strange  and  savage  aspect,  as  if  to  har¬ 
monise  with  the  dreary  sea  it  held  within  its  midst, 
madly  towards  which  the  river  now  hurried  on. 

But,  altogether,  the  descent  to-day  was  much  less  diffi¬ 
cult  than  those  which  had  preceded  it.  The  course  of  the 
river  formed  a  never-ending  series  of  serpentine  curves, 
sometimes  dashing  along  in  rapids  by  the  base  of  a  moun¬ 
tain,  sometimes  flowing  between  low  banks,  generally 
lined  with  trees  and  fragrant  with  blossoms.  Some 
places  presented  views  extremely  picturesque,  the  rapid 
rushing  of  a  torrent,  the  song  and  sight  of  birds,  the  over¬ 
hanging  trees,  and  glimpses  of  the  mountains  far  over  the 
plain.  Here  and  there  a  gurgling  rivulet  poured  its  tri¬ 
bute  of  pure  water  into  the  now  discoloured  J ordan.  The 
river  was  falling  rapidly ;  the  banks  showed  a  daily  fall 
of  about  two  feet,  and  frequently  we  saw  sedge  and  drift 
wood  lodged  high  up  on  the  branches  of  overhanging 
trees  —  above  the  surface  of  the  banks  —  which  conclu¬ 
sively  proves  that  the  Jordan  in  its  “  swellings”  still  over¬ 
flows  the  lower  plain,  and  drives  the  lion  from  his  lair,  as 
it  did  in  the  ancient  time. 

In  some  places  the  substratum  of  clay  along  the  banks 
presented  the  semi-indurated  appearance  of  stone.  For 
the  first  time  we  saw  to-day  sand,  gravel,  and  pebbles, 
along  the  shores,  and  the  cane  had  become  more  luxuri¬ 
ant,  all  indicating  the  approach  to  the  lower  Glior.  The 
elevated  plain  or  terrace,  on  each  side,  could  be  seen  at 
intervals,  and  the  high  mountains  of  Ajlun  were  visible 
in  the  distance. 

At  6.40  P.  M.,  hauled  up  just  above  an  ugly  rapid, 
which  runs  by  Wady  Yabes  (dry  ravine). 

19 


218  AN  EMIR  AND  HIS  TRIBE. 

It  looking  too  hazardous  to  “  shoot”  without  lightening 
the  boats  of  the  anns?  instruments,  &c.,  and  there  being 
no  near  place  of  rendezvous  below,  we  pitched  our  tents 
immediately  against  the  falls  and  opposite  to  the  ravine. 

We  have,  to-day,  passed  through  the  territories  of  the 
Emir  Nassir  el  Ghuzzawy,  which  are  two  hours  in  extent, 
but  more  than  twice  the  distance  along  the  tortuous 
course  of  the  river.  The  tribe  musters  300  fighting  men. 
His  territory,  in  size  and  fertility,  surpasses  some  of 
the  petty  kingdoms  of  Europe. 

The  Emir  and  some  of  his  people  have  wiry  hair  and 
very  dark  complexions,  but  no  other  feature  of  the 
African.  His  brother  and  some  of  the  tribe  are  bright, 
but  less  so  than  ’Akil  and  his  followers.  The  darker 
colour  of  the  skin  may,  perhaps,  be  attributed  to  the 
climate  of  the  Ghor. 

The  hills,  forming  the  banks  of  the  upper  terrace,  have, 
to-day,  assumed  a  conical  form,  with  scarped  and  angular 
faces,  marked  with  dark  bands,  and  furrowed  by  erosions. 
These  hills,  and  the  high  banks  of  alluvial  deposit,  with 
abrupt  and  perpendicular  faces,  indicate  that  the  whole 
valley  has  once  been  covered  with  water.  The  prevailing 
rock  seen  has  been  siliceous  limestone  and  conglome¬ 
rate, — much  of  the  last  lying  in  fragments  in  the  river, 
covered  with  a  black  deposit  of  oxide  of  iron  and  man¬ 
ganese.  Towards  the  latter  part  of  the  day,  rock  was 
less  abundant,  alluvion  began  to  prevail,  and  pebbles, 
gravel,  and  sand,  were  seen  beneath  the  superincumbent 
layers  of  dark  earth  and  clay.  Just  above  where  we 
had  secured  the  boats,  were  large  blocks  of  conglomerate 
in  the  stream. 

The  prevailing  trees  on  the  banks  have  been  the  wil¬ 
low,  the  ghurrah,  and  the  tamarisk ;  the  last  now  begin¬ 
ning  to  blossom.  There  were  many  flowers,  of  which 


TREES,  FISH,  AND  BIRDS.  219 

9  ■*  / 

the  oleander  was  the  most  abundant,  contrasting  finely 
with  the  white  fringe  blossom  of  the  asphodel.  Where 
the  banks  were  low,  the  cane  was  ever  at  the  water’s 
edge.  The  lower  plain  was  covered  with  a  luxuriant 
growth  of  wild  oats  and  patches  of  wild  mustard  in  full 
flower. 

In  our  course,  to-day,  we  have  passed  twelve  islands, 
all,  but  three,  of  diminutive  size,  and  noted  fourteen  tri¬ 
butary  streams,  ten  on  the  right  and  four  on  the  left 
hank.  With  the  exception  of  four,  they  were  but 
trickling  rivulets. 

We  saw  many  fish,  and  a  number  of  hawks,  herons, 
pigeons,  ducks,  storks,  bulbuls,  swallows,  and  many  other 
birds  we  could  not  identify— some  of  them  of  beautiful 
plumage.  At  one  time,  there  were  a  number  of  moths 
flitting  over  the  surface  of  the  stream,  and  we  caught 
one  of  them.  Its  body  was  about  the  size  of  a  goose- 
quill,  was  an  inch  in  length,  and  of  a  cream  colour, 
widest  at  the  head,  and  its  wings,  like  silver  tissue, 
were  as  long  as  the  body.  After  frightening  the  wee 
thing  by  our  close  inspection,  we  let  it  go.  J ust  before 
coming  in  sight  of  camp,  we  observed  several  tracks  of 
wild  boars. 

The  surface  of  the  hill  behind  us  was  thickly  covered 
with  boulders  of  quartz  and  conglomerate.  Dr.  Anderson 
found  the  remains  of  walls  at  the  summit ;  and  one  large 
stone,  dressed  to  a  face,  and  marked  He  distinguished 
two  separate  formations,  one  an  early  and  the  other  a  late 
conglomerate.  The  bank  opposite  was  high  and  rocky, 
and  consisted  of  the  same  puddingstone,  with  layers  of 
indurated  marl. 

In  our  route  of  upwards  of  twenty  miles  to-day,  we 
saw  the  scouts  but  twice ;  and,  in  consequence  of  the  na¬ 
ture  of  the  country,  the  caravan  was  compelled  to  diverge 


220 


PRECAUTIONS. 


so  far  from  the  river,  that  the  guns  we  fired  from  time  to 
time  at  the  wild-fowl  were  unheard. 

As  we  were  now  approaching  the  territories  of  the  had 
Arabs,  and  were  not  far  from  the  place  where  the  boat  of 
poor  Molyneux  was  attacked,  every  precaution  was 
taken.  Our  tent  was  pitched  beside  a  brawling  rapid, 
while  all  around  were  lances  and  tethered  horses,  be¬ 
traying  the  position  of  the  Arabs  for  the  night.  On  the 
crest  of  the  hill  behind  us,  the  Sherif  was  looking  out 
upon  the  vast  plain  to  the  southward,  although  I  had  just 
seen  the  old  man  asleep  on  the  ground  near  our  tent, 
fie  was  the  counsellor,  and  ’Aldl  the  warrior. 

It  was  a  strange  sight :  collected  near  us  lay  all  the 
camels,  for  security  against  a  sudden  surprise ;  while,  in 
every  direction,  but  ever  in  close  proximity,  were  scat¬ 
tered,  lances  and  smouldering  fires,  and  bundles  of  gar¬ 
ments,  beneath  each  of  which  was  a  slumbering  Arab, 
with  his  long  gun  by  his  side.  The  preparations  for 
defence  reminded  one  of  Indian  warfare. 

At  night,  Sherif  and  ’Akll  came  to  our  tent  to  consult 
about  to-morrow’s  journey.  They  stated  their  suspicions 
of  the  tribes  through  whose  territories  we  were  about  to 
pass,  and  how  necessary  it  would  be  for  the  land  and  the 
river  parties  to  keep  close  together.  They  gave  it  as  their 
opinion,  that  it  would  be  impossible  for  the  caravan  to 
proceed  on  the  western  shore  to-morrow,  and  advised  that 
early  in  the  morning  it  should  cross  over  to  the  eastern 
side.  This  course  was  adopted ;  and  it  was  agreed  that 
’Akll  and  his  scouts  should  keep  along  the  western,  while 
the  caravan  took  the  eastern  side, — thus  having  the  boats 
between,  so  that  one  or  other  of  the  land  parties  might  be 
within  hearing,  and  hasten  to  their  rescue,  if  attacked. 
It  was  further  agreed,  that  whenever,  by  the  intervention 
of  the  mountains,  the  land  parties  were  long  out  of  sight 


SUNKEN  ROCKS. 


221 


of  the  boats,  scouts  should  he  sent  to  the  summits  to  look 
out  for  them,  and  that  two  gun-shots,  in  quick  succession, 
should  be  the  signal,  if  attacked.  They  both  said  that 
there  was  not  the  slightest  danger  to  the  land  parties,  but 
expressed  great  solicitude  for  the  boats.  Sherif  thought 
it  best  for  him  to  be  with  the  caravan  to-morrow,  as  his 
influence  might  be  of  service  with  the  sheikhs  of  tribes, 
should  they  be  inclined  to  hostilities.  From  the  tortuous 
course  of  the  river,  it  was  supposed  that  the  caravan  on 
the  eastern  side  would  be  ever  in  advance  of,  while  the 
scouts  on  the  western  shore  would  keep  pace  with,  the 
boats. 

Stationing  the  sentries,  we  then  retired,  —  some  of  us 
quite  exhausted,  from  frequent  vomiting  throughout  the 
day.  I  thought  that  our  Bedawin  magnified  the  danger, 
to  enhance  their  own  importance.  But  it  was  well  to 
be  prepared. 

The  course  of  the  river  varied  to-day  from  N.  E.  by  N. 
and  N.  N.  W.  to  ,S., — the  true  course,  from  the  place  of 
departure  this  morning  to  our  present  camp,  S.  S.  W.  The 
width  of  the  river  was  as  much  as  seventy  yards,  with 
two  knots  current,  and  narrowed  again  to  thirty  yards, 
with  six  knots  current :  —  the  depth  ranging  from  two  to 
ten  feet.  The  trees  and  flowers  the  same  as  yesterday. 

We  struck  three  times  upon  sunken  rocks  during  the 
day,  and  the  last  time  nearly  lost  the  leading  boat :  with 
everything  wet,  we  were  at  length  extricated,  in  time  to 
direct  the  channel-way  to  the  Fanny  Skinner.  The  water 
was  slightly  discoloured.  When  we  left  the  camp,  the 
thermometer  stood  at  76°;  but  in  a  few  hours  the  weather 
was  oppressive. 

About  five  miles  nearly  due  west  from  the  camp,  were 
the  supposed  ruins  of  Succoth.  To  get  to  this  place, 
Jacob  must  have  made  a  retrograde  movement  after 
19* 


222  TRUE  CHARACTER  OF  THE  CAMEL. 

meeting  Esau,  and  crossed  the  Jordan,  or  recrossed  the 
Jabok. 

Saturday,  April  15.  We  were  up  and  off  at  an  early 
hour  this  morning,  with  less  than  the  usual  disturbance 
between  the  camel-drivers  and  their  insufferable  beasts. 
Of  all  the  burden-bearing  beasts,  from  the  Siam  elephant 
to  the  Himmaleh  goat,  this  “ship  of  the  desert,”  as  he 
has  been  poetically  termed,  —  this  clumsy-jointed,  splay¬ 
footed,  wry-necked,  vicious  camel,  with  its  look  of  injured 
innocence,  and  harsh,  complaining  voice,  is  incomparably 
the  most  disagreeable. 

Loud  have  been  the  praises  of  its  submissive  and  self- 
sacrificing  spirit,  all  gentleness  and  sagacity;  its  power 
of  enduring  hunger  and  thirst  for  an  indefinite  period, 
and  its  unwearied  tramp  day  after  day  through  the  smit¬ 
ing  sun  and  over  the  burning  sands  of  the  desert ;  but 
this  animal  is  anything  but  patient  or  uncomplaining. 
As  to  the  enormous  weight  it  can  carry,  we  have  heard 
it  growl  in  expostulation  at  a  load  which  the  common 
“  kadish”  (Syrian  pack-horse)  would  be  mortified  to  have 
allotted  to  him  as  suited  to  his  thews  and  sinews. 

The  steady  little  donkey,  with  preposterous  ears  and 
no  perceptible  hair  on  his  hide,  that  leads  the  trudging 
caravan,  and  eats  his  peck  of  barley  (if  he  be  a  lucky 
donkey),  and  travels  stoutly  all  day  long,  is  a  model 
for  him  in  endurance ;  and  the  most  unhappy  mule 
that  ever  bore  pack,  or,  blindfold,  turns  the  crank  of 
Persian  water-wheel,  is  an  example  to  him  of  patient 
meekness  and  long-suffering.  While  on  the  road,  they  do 
not  loiter  by  the  way,  dropping  their  loads  and  commit¬ 
ting  trespasses  upon  the  fields  of  grain,  and  rarely  need 
to  be  urged  on  by  the  unceasing  cry  of  “  yellah,”  “  hem- 
she,”  and  the  application  of  the  belabouring  cudgel  of  the 
mukris.  While  the  “  djemmel”  (camel),  with  his  hypo- 


CAUSE  OF  THE  CAMEL’S  ILL-NATURE.  223 

critical,  meek  look,  his  drunken  eye,  and  sunken  nether 
lip,  begins  to  expostulate  in  a  voice  discordant  with  min¬ 
gled  hatred  and  complaint,  from  the  moment  he  is  forced 
upon  his  callous  knees,  until  he  clumsily  rises  with  his 
burden  and  goes  stalking  lazily  on  his  road. 

The  meek  enduring  look  of  the  camel  is  a  deception ; 
we  have  seen  it  refusing  the  load,  or,  shaking  it  off,  rise 
with  a  roar,  and  dash  furiously  at  its  master,  even  while 
its  lip  was  reeking  with  the  fresh  and  juicy  herb  he  had 
just  gathered  for  it. 

It  is  a  pity  to  contradict  the  pleasing  accounts  given 
of  this  friend  of  the  wandering  Bedawin,  but  our  opinions 
have  been  formed  after  close  observation  of  its  manners 
and  habits  in  the  desert.  Much  of  the  ill-nature  and 
obduracy  of  the  camel  is  doubtless  attributable  to  the 
almost  entire  neglect  of  its  owner  in  providing  food  and 
cleansing  its  hide,  so  subject  to  cutaneous  diseases. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  towns,  where  it  cannot  graze, 
straw  is  given  to  it ;  but  in  the  desert  it  must  crop  the 
thistle  or  the  parched  herbage  as  it  passes,  straying  from 
side  to  side  in  its  march,  like  the  yawing  of  a  stately  ship 
before  the  wind.  At  night,  if  it  be  necessary  to  keep  the 
camels  within  the  encampment  for  security,  the  mukris 
gather  thistles,  herbage,  and  dwarf  bushes  for  them,  but 
otherwise  turn  them  loose  to  graze.  There  is  no  question 
that  if  the  camel  were  well  fed  and  gently  treated,  it 
would  sustain  the  character  ascribed  to  it  by  partial 
writers. 

The  soft,  spongy,  india-rubber-looking  foot  of  the  camel 
is  eaten  by  the  Arabs,  and  considered  a  great  luxury. 
Perhaps  it  is  the  same  dish  to  which  “rare  Ben  Jonson” 
alludes,  when  he  describes  our  ancestors  of  the  sixteenth 
century  as  eating — 

u  The  tongues  of  carps,  dormice,  and  cameVs  heels , 

Boiled  in  the  spirit  of  sol.” 


224 


FORDING  THE  RIVER. 


Leaving  the  place  of  encampment  for  the  ford  W acabes, 
the  caravan  wound  round  the  base  of  a  low  conical  sand¬ 
hill,  and  traversed  a  small  grove  of  oak  and  arbutus  and 
a  thick  and  matted  undergrowth  of  brush  and  briers,  with 
long,  keen,  penetrating  thorns.  Here,  as  had  been  ar¬ 
ranged,  ’Aldl  and  his  Bedawin  scouts  separated  from  the 
caravan  and  proceeded  down  the  western  shore  ;  while 
the  latter  crossed  over  to  the  eastern  side. 

A  little  barren  island  divided  the  stream  at  the  ford, 
and  the  current  swept  by  with  such  rapidity  as  to  render 
it  doubtful  whether  the  passage  could  be  effected.  Mr. 
Bedlow,  however,  made  the  attempt,  and  succeeded  in 
reaching  the  island  with  no  greater  inconvenience  than 
dripping  extremities  and  a  moist  saddle.  The  rest  were 
soon  in  the  stream,  clumsy  camels  and  all,  breasting  and 
struggling,  with  various  success,  against  the  foaming  cur¬ 
rent.  There  was  a  singular  mixture  of  the  serious  and 
the  grotesque  in  this  scene,  and  the  sounds  that  triumphed 
above  the  “  tapage”  of  the  boisterous  ford,  were  the  yells 
of  the  camel-drivers  and  the  cries  of  the  Arabs,  mingled 
with  shouts  of  unrestrained  laughter  as  some  impatient 
horse  reeled  and  plunged  with  his  rider  in  the  stream, 
and  the  water  was  scattered  about  in  froth  and  spray  like 
a  geyser. 

The  depth  and  impetuosity  of  the  river  caused  us  some 
apprehensions  for  the  safety  of  our  cook,  Mustafa,  who, 
being  mounted  on  an  ill-favoured,  scrubby  little  beast, 
already  laden  to  the  ears  with  the  implements  and  raw 
materials  of  his  art,  was  in  danger,  donkey  and  all,  of 
being  snatched  from  us,  like  another  Ganymede,  by  the 
Epicurean  river-gods,  or  borne  away  by  some  deified 
Apicius,  disguised  as  a  donkey,  for  the  little  brute  looked 
at  times  as  if  he  were  swimming  away,  not  fording  the 
stream.  The  tiny  animal,  as  soon  as  it  had  achieved  the 
passage,  clambered,  dripping,  up  the  sloping  bank,  and 


A  FLORAL  PLAIN". 


225 


convulsively  shaking  his  eminently  miscalculated  ears, 
signalised  his  triumphant  exploit  by  one  prolonged,  hys¬ 
terical  bray,  which  startled  the  wilderness,  and  seemed 
to  be  a  happy  imitation  of  a  locomotive  whistle,  and  the 
sound  of  sawing  boards,  declining  gradually  to  a  sob. 

From  the  river,  the  banks  sloped  gradually  to  the  ter¬ 
race  above ;  presenting  a  broad  and  undulating  surface  of 
sparse  wild  oats  and  weeds,  and  a  few  fields  of  grass, 
intermingled  with  low  bushes,  and  a  slender  brown  fringe 
of  such  light  and  frail  structure,  as  to  bend  low  with  the 
faintest  breath  of  air. 

Among  this  scanty  herbage,  and  yet  hidden  by  it  in 
the  distance,  the  earth  was  covered  with  a  luxuriant 
growth  of  crimson  flowers  (the  anemone),  so  thickly 
matted  together,  that,  to  the  eye,  the  ground  at  times 
seemed  covered  with  a  crimson  snow.  Here  and  there, 
among  this  sea  of  scarlet  bloom,  were  patches  of  yellow 
daisy,  looking  like  little  golden  islands  in  the  incarnadined 
and  floral  ocean ;  while  the  bases  of  the  hills  were  fringed 
with  a  light  purple  blossom,  which  not  inaptly  represented 
the  foam  of  this  preternatural  sea. 

When  the  wind,  sweeping  down  the  gorges  of  the  hills, 
passed  over  the  plain,  a  broad  band  of  crimson  marked 
its  course ;  for  the  wild  grain,  light  and  elastic,  bent  low, 
and  revealed  the  flowers  beneath  it, — presenting  the 
appearance  of  a  phantom  river  of  blood,  suddenly  issuing 
from  the  earth,  and  again  lost  to  sight,  to  reappear  else¬ 
where,  at  the  magic  breath  of  the  breeze. 

This  plain  was  bounded  towards  the  south  by  a  deep 
ravine,  and  on  its  eastern  and  western  sides  it  rose,  in 
slight  and  irregular  undulations,  to  a  higher  terrace  or 
plateau,  which  blended  with  the  hills  in  the  distance, 
and  seemed  like  the  slopes  of  mountains,  instead  of  the 
elevated  plain  which  we  knew  it  to  be.  Except  upon  the 
banks  of  the  river,  there  was  not  a  tree  to  be  seen  3 

p 


226  NOTES  FOR  OUR  CHART. 

the  sun  poured  down  upon  hill,  and  valley,  and  stream,  a 
flood  of  lieat  and  splendour,  though  as  yet  it  was  but 
early  day. 

Shortly  after  passing  the  rapid,  immediately  below  our 
place  of  encampment,  the  boats  were  whirled  along  with 
great  velocity,  and  barely  escaped  a  rock  near  the  water’s 
edge,  and  directly  in  the  channel.  The  stream  was 
fringed  with  trees  of  the  same  variety  as  have  been  here¬ 
tofore  noticed,  and  we  began  to  meet  with  many  false 
channels,  which  rendered  our  navigation  more  tedious 
and  difficult. 

In  order  that  no  feature  of  the  river  might  be  omitted, 
I  noted  every  turn  in  the  course,  the  depth,  the  velocity, 
and  temperature  of  the  river ;  the  islands  and  tributary 
streams ;  the  nature  of  its  banks ;  the  adjacent  scenery, 
when  visible ;  the  trees,  flowers,  weeds,  birds,  and  tracks 
of  wild  beasts.  As  all  this  would  be  tedious  in  perusal, 
however  necessary  for  the  construction  of  a  chart  and  an 
accurate  knowledge  of  the  river,  I  have  deemed  it  best  to 
embody  it  in  an  Appendix  to  the  official  report. 

At  8.34,  started  from  below  the  rapid.  Air,  75°; 
water,  71°.  At  9.28  A.  M.,  we  passed  Wady  el  Hammam 
(ravine  of  the  bath),  with  a  small  stream  coming  down 
on  the  right  or  western  side.  It  is  a  slender  thread  of 
water  finding  its  way  down  a  chasm,  a  world  too  wide  for 
its  little  stream;  but,  joined  here  and  there  in  its  mean¬ 
dering  descent  by  tiny  tributaries,  it  comes  rattling  down 
its  pebbly  bed,  with  the  brawling  joyousness  of  a  moun¬ 
tain  stream.  At  9.34,  came  to  a  rather  ugly  rapid,  by 
Wady  el  Malakh  (ravine  of  salt),  with  a  small  stream  of 
clear  but  brackish  water  running  down  from  W.  N.  W. 
Beheld  ’Akil  and  some  of  the  scouts  upon  a  hill  beyond  it. 
Stopped  to  examine  the  rapid  for  a  passage.  Saw  tracks 
of  a  tiger  upon  the  shore,  and  found  some  plants  of  the 
ghurrah,  its  leaves  triangular-shaped,  of  a  light  green 


PECULIAR  THISTLE. 


227 


colour,  their  inner  surfaces  coated  with  a  saline  efflores¬ 
cence  :  the  other  parts  of  the  stem  purple,  the  new 
growth  a  light  green :  the  taste  of  the  stem  and  leaves 
salt  and  bitter.  The  fennel  was  also  quite  abundant,  the 
stalks  of  which,  Jumah,  our  Arab  friend,  ate  greedily. 
There  were  some  large  blocks  of  fossil  rock  on  the  right 
bank,  and  in  the  bed  of  the  river,  of  which  we  collected 
specimens.  The  temperature  of  the  brackish  stream 
was  70°. 

At  11.30  A.  M.,  we  stopped  to  take  a  meridian  observa¬ 
tion  of  the  sun.  Temperature  of  the  air,  82° ;  that  of 
the  river,  at  twelve  inches  below  the  surface,  at  which 
depth  it  is  always  taken,  74°.  The  heat  was  exceedingly 
oppressive  for  the  thermometrical  range ;  for,  the  wind 
being  excluded  by  the  lofty  hills  and  overhanging  trees, 
it  was  ever  a  perfect  calm ;  except  when,  at  times,  it 
came  in  squalls  down  the  yawning  ravines. 

The  plain  above  the  ravine  was  much  broken,  pre¬ 
senting  abrupt  mounds  and  sand-hillocks,  covered  with 
varieties  of  the  thistle,  some  of  which  were  peculiar  from 
the  sabre  shape  of  their  thorns,  and  the  rough  and  hairy 
coating  of  the  leaves ;  the  latter  emitting  a  milky  fluid 
when  broken.  The  thorn-bushes  were  so  large  and  so 
abundant  as  to  look  like  apple-orchards.  The  sides  of 
the  ravine  exposed  conglomerate  rocks. 

Before  starting  again,  we  gathered  some  flowers  for 
preservation,  and  a  plant  with  which  we  were  unac¬ 
quainted.  It  bears  clusters  of  seeds,  eight  or  ten  together, 
on  the  extremity  of  the  stamen,  resembling  in  appearance 
those  of  the  melon ;  the  main  stem  is  five  feet  high,  with 
thirty-five  stamens,  each  ten  inches  long.  It  grows  like 
the  castor  bean,  and  is  called,  by  the  Arabs,  kelakh. 

The  hills  preserved  their  conical  shapes,  with  bald 
faces,  and  the  water  was  becoming  of  a  light  mud, 
approaching  a  milk  colour. 


228 


DESOLATE  MOUNTAINS. 


Except  during  the  heat  of  mid-day,  when  every  living 
thing  but  ourselves  had  sought  refuge  in  the  thicket  or  in 
the  crevices  of  the  banks,  there  were  birds  flying  about 
in  all  directions. 

At  12.42,  we  saw  the  mountains  of  Salt  and  Belka 
ahead,  from  a  turn  of  the  river. 

At  1.32  P.  M.,  we  stopped  to  take  a  sketch  of  the  ex¬ 
traordinary  appearance  of  the  terraces  of  the  Jordan.  At 
2.23,  Wady  Ajlun  in  sight  on  the  left.  The  land  of  Faria 
begins  here.  The  tribe  El  Faria  numbers  100  fighting 
men.  Their  territory  was  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  for 
one  hour  in  extent.  We  have,  to-day,  passed  through 
the  territory  of  Es  Sukr  el  Ghor,  the  tribe  numbering  200 
warriors. 

The  mountains  towards  the  east  assumed  a  glooni}^ 
aspect  to-day,  and  stood  out  like  rough  and  verdureless 
crags  of  limestone.  Yet,  when  the  eye  could  withstand 
the  bright  glare  of  the  illuminated  cliffs  and  jagged 
ridges,  it  detected  many  portions  which  seemed  sus¬ 
ceptible  of  cultivation ;  and  when  breaks  in  the  calcined 
rocks  caught  the  intense  brilliancy,  and  reflected  it  into 
the  deep  gorges,  patches  of  verdure  relieved  the  arid  mo¬ 
notony  ;  but  the  scene,  from  the  blinding  light,  permitted 
no  minute  investigation. 

At  2.34,  saw  the  caravan  halted  on  the  bank.  Came 
to  and  pitched  our  tents  at  the  ford  of  Sek’a,  on  the  left 
or  eastern  bank,  abreast  of  two  small  islands.  The  plain 
extended  six  or  eight  miles  on  the  eastern,  and  about 
three-fourths  of  a  mile  on  the  western  side.  The  place 
of  encampment  takes  its  name  from  a  village  of  the 
Sukrs,  two  miles  distant. 

’Akil  was  on  friendly  terms  with  this  tribe,  and  some 
of  them,  who  had  just  come  in,  stated  that  their  village 
was  last  night  attacked  by  about  two  hundred  Bedawin, 


UNKNOWN  ARABS.  229 

who  killed  several  of  their  men,  and  carried  off  nearly  all 
their  horses,  cattle,  and  sheep. 

About  eighteen  miles  E.  by  N.  are  the  ruins  of  Jerash, 
supposed  to  be  the  ancient  Pella,  to  which,  Eusebius 
states,  the  Christians  were  divinely  admonished  to  fly,  just 
before  the  siege  of  Jerusalem  by  Titus.  With  Gadara 
(Um  Keis),  it  was  one  of  the  cities  of  the  Decapolis.  It 
has  magnificent  ruins,  many  of  them  churches,  and  we 
deeply  regretted  our  inability  to  visit  them.  Its  situation 
is  said  to  be  the  most  beautiful,  and  its  ruins  the  most 
interesting,  in  all  Syria.  What  a  field  the  Hauran  pre¬ 
sents  for  exploration ! 

This  was  a  most  solitary  day’s  travel.  We  had  not 
seen  the  caravan  from  the  time  of  starting  until  now,  and 
’Akil  and  his  party  were  visible  but  once.  With  the  last 
exception,  we  did  not  see  a  human  being.  The  caravan 
was  a  little  more  fortunate.  Shortly  after  crossing  the 
wady  El  Malakh  (salt  ravine),  they  discovered  a  solitary 
plane  tree  (dilbeh),  gnarled  and  twisted  by  the  action  of 
the  winds,  its  only  companions  the  crimson  poppy  and 
the  golden  daisy,  which  clustered  round  its  protruding 
roots  like  parasites.  Their  attention  was  instantly  drawn 
to  this  solitary  tree,  for  beneath  its  scanty  shade,  they  saw 
the  glitter  of  a  spear-head,  and  soon  after,  two  Bedawin 
horsemen,  who  came  forth,  and,  hastening  in  another  direc¬ 
tion,  were  soon  lost  in  the  thick  copse-wood  which  lined 
the  ravine.  For  an  instant,  our  Arabs  drew  the  rein  and 
consulted  among  themselves,  when  four  or  five  started  off 
at  headlong  speed  in  pursuit.  Making  a  long  detour  to 
intercept  the  strange  horsemen,  they  plunged  into  the 
ravine,  and,  like  those  they  pursued,  were  soon  lost  to 
sight  in  the  thick  foliage  that  skirted  its  sides. 

This  incident  created  more  excitement  than  one  so  tri¬ 
lling  would  seem  to  justify;  but  we  were  wanderers  in 
an  unknown  and  inhospitable  wilderness,  among  bar- 
20 


230 


SILENT  DESOLATION. 


barons  tribes  of  warlike  Arabs,  where  the  only  security 
against  rapine  and  murder  is  strength  of  numbers  and 
efficiency  of  weapons,  and  where  the  sight  of  a  stranger 
to  the  party  prompts  each  one  instinctively  to  feel  for  his 
carbine,  or  grasp  unconsciously  the  handle  of  his  sword. 

The  strange  horsemen  proved  to  be  friendly  Beni  Sukrs 
on  their  way  to  Beisan. 

Crossing  the  ravine  of  Ajlun,  with  a  considerable  stream 
running  down,  they  met  some  agricultural  Arabs,  one  of 
whom  kissed  Sheriffs  hand.  From  the  southern  side  of 
the  ravine,  they  saw  an  immense  plain  stretching  towards 
the  Dead  Sea.  Far  off  was  also  visible  the  village  of 
Abu  Abeidah,  containing  the  tomb  of  a  general  of  Muham- 
hammed,  some  say  of  a  great  sultan  of  Yemen,  who  died  on 
his  way  from  Arabia  Felix  to  Damascus.  While  crossing 
an  extensive  plain  before  halting,  they  saw  many  very 
large  thistles  in  full  bloom,  the  flowers  various  and  beau¬ 
tiful  ;  and  a  prevailing  yellow  flower,  called  “  murur”  by 
the  Arabs.  Just  before  camping,  they  passed  large  fields 
of  wheat  and  barley,  fast  ripening. 

Although  the  day  was  some  hours  past  its  meridian, 
the  weather  was  exceedingly  sultry,  and  the  eye  ached 
from  the  reverberated  glare  of  light  it  had  encountered 
since  morning. 

There  was  something  in  this  solitude  —  in  these  spots, 
forsaken  and  alone  in  their  hopeless  sterility  and  weird 
silence  —  that  begat  reflection,  even  in  the  most  thought¬ 
less.  In  all  this  dreary  waste  there  was  no  sound ;  for 
every  living  thing  had  retired,  exhausted,  from  the  wither¬ 
ing  heat  and  blinding  glare.  Silence,  the  fit  companion  of 
desolation,  was  profound.  The  song  of  a  bird,  the  chirrup 
of  a  grasshopper,  the  drone  of  a  fly,  would  have  been  out 
of  harmony.  The  wind,  without  which  even  solitude  is 
incomplete,  sounded  mournfully  as  it  went  sweeping  over 
the  barren  plain,  and  sighed,  even  in  the  broad  and  garish 


A  CONTINUAL  GLAEE. 


231 


day,  like  the  blast  of  autumn  among  the  marshy  sedge, 
where  the  cold  toad  croaks,  and  the  withered  leaf  is 
spotted  like  a  leprosy. 

Here,  the  eye  looked  in  vain  for  the  soft  and  tender 
sky,  so  often  beheld  in  utter  listlessness  in  our  own  far- 
distant  land,  and  yet,  dull  and  ungrateful  that  we  were, 
we  remained  untouched  with  the  beauty  of  its  transparent 
and  penetrable  blue  —  pure  azote  and  oxygen  —  into  the 
immeasurable  depths  of  which  the  eye  pierced  and  wan¬ 
dered,  but  to  return  to  earth  again,  dazzled  and  unfixed, 
as  though  it  had  caught  a  glimpse  of  infinity,  and,  wearied 
and  overpowered,  sought  the  finite  and  the  tangible, — 
the  comprehensible  reality  of  laminated  hills,  broad  plains, 
deep  valleys,  and  the  mountains,  broad  of  girth  and  firmly 
rooted.  The  heavens  of  more  favoured  climes,  —  climes 
as  yet  uncursed  of  God ;  skies,  tender,  deep,  and  crystal¬ 
line,  so  profound  in  their  unfathomableness,  and,  with 
their  lightning  and  black  thunder-cloud,  so  terrific  in 
their  wrath,  —  such  skies  are  never  seen  here. 

Here,  there  is  no  shifting  of  the  scenes  of  natural 
beauty ;  no  ever-varying  change  of  glory  upon  glory ; 
no  varied  development  of  the  laws  of  harmony  and 
truth,  which  characterise  her  workings  elsewhere ;  no 
morning  film  of  mist,  or  low,  hanging  cloud  of  unshed 
dew;  no  clouds  of  feathery  cirrus,  or  white  and  wool¬ 
like  pinnacles  of  cumuli;  or  light  or  gorgeous  tints, 
dazzling  the  eye  with  their  splendours ;  no  arrowy 
shafts  of  sunlight  streaming  through  the  rifts  of  drift¬ 
ing  clouds ;  no  silvery  spikes  of  morning  shooting  up  in 
the  east,  or  soft  suffusion  of  evening  in  the  west :  but, 
from  the  gleam  of  dawn,  that  deepens  at  once  into  inten¬ 
sity  of  noon,  one  withering  glare  scorches  the  eye,  from 
which,  blood-shot  and  with  contracted  pupil,  it  gladly 
turns  away. 

Here,  night  but  conceals  and  smoulders  the  flame  which 


232 


AN  IMPRESSIVE  LANDSCAPE. 


seems  to  be  consuming  earth  and  heaven.  Day  after  day, 
there  is  no  change.  Nature,  which  elsewhere  makes  a 
shifting  kaleidescope  with  clouds,  and  sunshine,  and  pure 
azure,  has  here  the  curse  of  sameness  upon  her,  and 
wearies  with  her  monotony. 

Beneath  a  sky  hollowed  above  us  like  a  brazen  buckler, 
and  refracting  the  shafts  of  smiting  sunlight,  we  jour¬ 
neyed  on,  heeding  neither  light  nor  heat,  hunger  nor 
thirst,  danger  nor  fatigue ;  but  each  day  looked  cheerfully 
forward  to  the  time  when  we  should  be  gathered  on  the 
margin  of  the  river,  —  the  tents  all  spread,  the  boats  fast¬ 
ened  to  the  shore,  the  watch-fires  blazing,  and  the  sound 
of  human  voices  breaking  the  tyrannous  silence,  and 
giving  a  home-like  aspect  to  the  wilderness. 

The  character  of  the  whole  scene  of  this  dreary  waste 
was  singularly  wild  and  impressive.  Looking  out  upon 
the  desert,  bright  with  reverberated  light  and  heat,  was 
like  beholding  a  conflagration  from  a  window  at  twilight. 
Each  detail  of  the  strange  and  solemn  scene  could  be 
examined  as  through  a  lens. 

The  mountains  towards  the  west  rose  up  like  islands 
from  the  sea,  with  the  billows  heaving  at  their  bases. 
The  rough  peaks  caught  the  slanting  sunlight,  while 
sharp  black  shadows  marked  the  sides  turned  from  the 
rays.  Deep-rooted  in  the  plain,  the  bases  of  the  moun¬ 
tains  heaved  the  garment  of  the  earth  away,  and  rose 
abruptly  in  naked,  pyramidal  crags,  each  scar  and  fissure 
as  palpably  distinct  as  though  within  reach,  —  and  yet 
we  were  hours  away;  the  laminations  of  their  strata 
resembling  the  leaves  of  some  gigantic  volume,  wherein 
is  written,  by  the  hand  of  God,  the  history  of  the  changes 
he  has  wrought. 

Towards  the  south,  the  ridges  and  higher  masses  of  the 
range,  as  they  swept  away  in  the  distance,  were  aerial 


i 


VEGETATION  ON  THE  JORDAN.  233 

and  faint,  and  softened  into  dimness  by  a  pale  transpa¬ 
rent  mist. 

The  plain  that  sloped  away  from  the  bases  of  the  hills 
was  broken  into  ridges  and  multitudinous  cone-like 
mounds,  resembling  tumultuous  water  at  “the  meeting 
of  two  adverse  tides ;”  and  presented  a  wild  and  che¬ 
quered  tract  of  land,  with  spots  of  vegetation  flourishing 
upon  the  frontiers  of  irreclaimable  sterility. 

A  low,  pale,  yellow  ridge  of  conical  hills  marked  the 
termination  of  the  higher  terrace,  beneath  which  swept 
gently  this  lower  plain,  with  a  similar  undulating  sur¬ 
face,  half  redeemed  from  barrenness  by  sparse  verdure 
and  thistle-covered  hillocks. 

Still  lower  was  the  valley  of  the  Jordan  !  The  sacred 
river  !  Its  banks  fringed  with  perpetual  verdure  ;  wind¬ 
ing  in  a  thousand  graceful  mazes ;  its  pathway  cheered 
with  songs  of  birds  and  its  own  clear  voice  of  gushing 
minstrelsy;  its  course  a  bright  line  in  this  cheerless 
waste.  Yet  beautiful  as  it  is,  it  is  only  rendered  so  by 
contrast  with  the  harsh,  dry,  calcined  earth  around.  The 
salt-sown  desert ! 

There  is  no  verdure  here  that  can  vie,  in  intensity  or 
richness,  with  that  which  June  bestows  upon  vegetation 
in  our  own  more  favoured  but  less  consecrated  land; 
where  the  margins  of  the  most  unnoticed  woodland  stream 
are  decked  with  varieties  of  tree  and  shrub  in  almost 
boundless  profusion. 

Here  are  no  plumy  elms,  red-berried  ash,  or  dark  green 
hazel;  no  linden,  beach  or  aspen;  no  laurel, . pine,  or 
birch ;  and  yet,  unstirred  by  the  wind,  the  willow  and 
the  tamarisk  droop  over  the  glittering  waters,  with  their 
sad  and  plume-like  tresses;  the  lily  bending  low,  moistens 
its  cup  in  the  crystal  stream,  and  the  oleander  blooms 
and  flowers  on  the  banks.  Amid  the  intricate  foliage 
cluster  the  anemone  and  the  asphodel,  and  the  tangled 
20  * 


4 


234  THE  ZUKKUM. 

copse  is  the  haunt  of  the  bulbul  and  the  nightingale. 
There  is  a  pleasure  in  these  green  and  fertile  banks,  seen 
far  along  the  sloping  valley ;  a  tracery  of  life,  amid  the 
death  and  dust  that  hem  it  in ; — 

UA  thing  of  beauty  and  a  joy  for  ever,” 

so  like  some  trait  of  gentleness  in  a  corrupt  and  wicked 
heart. 

Soon  after  camping,  Sherif  brought  to  me  a  fruit  or  nut 
which  was  described  by  the  land  party  as  growing  upon 
a  small  thorny  tree.  The  fruit  is  somewhat  like  a  small 
date,  but  of  an  olive-green  colour,  the  bark  of  the  tree 
smooth,  the  leaves  thin,  long,  and  oval,  and  of  a  brighter 
green  than  the  bark  or  fruit.  It  is  bitter  and  acrid  to  the 
taste,  and  is  called  by  our  Arabs  the  “zukkum,”  which  is 
declared  by  the  Koran  to  be  the  food  of  infidels  in  hell. 
Dr.  Kobinson,  quoting  Maundrell  and  Pococke,  describes 
it  as  the  “  balsam  tree,”  from  the  nut  of  which  the  oil  of 
Jericho  is  extracted  —  called  by  the  pilgrims  Zacclieus’ 
oil,  from  the  belief  that  the  tree  which  bears  it  was  the 
one  climbed  by  Zaccheus.  Scripture,  as  Dr.  Kobinson 
states,  renders  it,  with  more  probability,  the  sycamore  or 
plane  tree.  The  “  zukkum”*  is  little  more  than  a  shrub 
in  height,  and  its  branches  are  covered  with  thorns. 

One  of  the  land  party  brought  in  a  leaf  of  the  osher 
plant,  which  bears  the  Dead  Sea  fruit.  It  is  oval,  thick, 

*  Zukkum,  or  zaccoun  of  the  Arabs,  has  various  English  names,  as 
Jericho  plum,  Jerusalem  willow,  oleaster,  wild  olive,  &c.  It  is  the  elaeg- 
nus  angustifolius  of  botanists.  This  tree  much  resembles  the  olive,  and 
has  been  mistaken  by  many  writers  for  the  wild  variety  of  that  useful  tree. 
The  resemblance  is  close,  not  only  in  the  leaves,  hut  also  in  the  fruit ;  the 
last,  however,  is  larger  and  more  oblong.  The  oil  extracted  from  the  nut 
or  kernel  has  been  long  celebrated  in  Syria  as  very  efficacious  in  the  treat¬ 
ment  of  wounds  and  bruises,  and  is  said  to  be  preferred  to  the  balsam  of 
Mecca  for  that  purpose.  It  is  also  supposed  by  some  to  be  the  Myro- 
balanus  of  Pliny ;  and  Belen  says  that  near  the  Jordan  he  found  u  les 


SCENE  ON  THE  JORDAN. 


- -r* - -  — —  • 


' 

>  -Jr  •  _ 

/ 


, 


- 


* 

MUHAM  MEDAN  SECTS. 


235 


and  of  a  deep  green  colour,  very  much  resembling  that 
of  the  caoutchouc  or  India-rubber  plant;  the  flower  a 
delicate  purple,  growing  in  pyramidal  clusters.  The  fruit 
was  not  yet  formed.  The  centre  of  the  stalk  is  pithy, 
like  the  alder,  and  discharges  a  viscous  milky  fluid  when 
cut  or  broken. 

The  land  party  also  saw  the  nubk  or  sidr  tree,  bearing 
a  fruit  about  the  size  of  a  cherry,  but  its  colour  more 
yellow  than  red.  It  looks  very  much  like  a  withered 
crab-apple,  has  a  large  kernel  or  stone,  and  is  slightly 
acid,  but  not  juicy.  The  Arabs  are  fond  of  the  fruit  in 
its  present  state,  and  frequently  pulverize  the  meat  for 
flour.  The  nubk  is  the  “  spina  Christi”  of  Hasselquist, 
from  the  pliant,  thorny  branches  of  which,  it  is  supposed, 
was  made  the  mock  crown  of  the  Redeemer. 

At  sunset,  bathed  in  the  refreshing  waters  of  the  Jor¬ 
dan.  Sherif  says  that  the  Muhammedans  are  divided 
into  two  sects,  the  Shiahs,  believing  in  the  Koran  only, 
and  the  Sunnites,  in  both  the  Koran  and  tradition.  In 
the  strict  sense  of  the  term  they  are  all  Unitarians,  and 
hold  Christians  as  idolaters,  for  their  belief  in  and  wor¬ 
ship  of  the  divinity  of  the  Saviour  and  the  Paraclete. 
They  believe  in  the  interposition  of  angels  in  human 

arbres  qui  portent  les  Myrobalans  citrins  du  noyau  desquels  les  habitans 
font  d’  Phuile.”  Dr.  Boyle  seems  inclined  to  believe  that  this  oil  is  the 
tzeie  (translated  balm  in  our  version)  mentioned  in  Genesis,  as  it  is  there 
noticed  as  a  product  of  Gilead,  and  which  could  not  have  been  what  is 
now  called  balm  or  balsam  of  Gilead,  as  the  tree  producing  it  is  a  native 
of  Arabia  or  Abyssinia  and  not  of  Palestine ;  being  only  cultivated  in  one 
or  two  places  in  the  latter  country,  and  not  until  a  period  long  after  that 
of  Jacob.  From  this  and  the  evidence  afforded  in  many  other  parts  of  the 
Bible,  it  appears  certain  that  the  balsam  alluded  to  was  a  production  of 
Gilead,  and  also  that  it  was  used  as  a  medicine;  and  there  is  a  strong  pro¬ 
bability  that  it  was  the  oil  from  the  zukkum.  The  oil  is  extracted  first  by 
pressing  the  crushed  nuts,  and  a  further  portion  is  obtained  by  boiling 
them. —  Griffith. 


236  NOCTURNAL  APPREHENSIONS. 

affairs,  and  in  the  resurrection  and  final  judgment.  They 
are  divided  in  opinion  with  regard  to  purgatory,  or  an  in¬ 
termediate  state  after  death,  and  hold  Moses,  the  Saviour, 
and  Muhammed,  to  have  been  prophets  of  God,  the  last 
the  greatest.  And  yet  in  his  absurd  night  journey  to 
heaven,  Muhammed  makes  Moses  and  the  other  prophets 
desire  his  prayers,  but  asks  himself  for  those  of  the 
Saviour.  They  believe  that  another,  in  the  semblance 
of  the  Redeemer,  was  crucified  in  his  stead.  When  I 
asked  Sherif  if  he  did  not  think  that  a  good  Christian 
might  get  to  heaven,  he  answered, 

66  How  can  you  hope  it,  when  you  insult  the  God  you 
believe  in,  by  supposing  that  He  died  the  ignominious 
death  of  a  criminal  ?” 

This  people,  sensually  imaginative,  are  incapable  of  a 
refined,  spiritual  idea;  and  the  arch-impostor,  Muhammed, 
wrell  understood  the  nature  of  his  countrymen. 

Heretofore,  we  have  been  lulled  to  sleep  by  the  hoarse 
sound  of  a  rapid ;  all,  except  those  who,  having  to  encounter 
it,  felt  naturally  solicitous  for  the  result.  The  noise  of  a 
rapid  is  much  louder  by  night ;  and  one  a  mile  off,  sounds 
as  if  it  were  madly  rushing  through  the  camp.  We  were 
now,  however,  comparatively  quiet. 

As  the  attack  upon  the  neighbouring  village,  last 
night,  showed  that  bad  Arabs  were  about,  and  there 
had  been  many  strangers  in  the  camp  during  the 
evening;  after  all  but  the  sentries  had  retired  to  rest,  I 
went  round  to  see  that  each  one  had  his  ammunition-belt 
on  and  his  weapons  beside  him;  and  repeated  the  injunc¬ 
tion  to  rally  round  the  blunderbuss  in  the  event  of  an 
alarm.  But  the  night  passed  away  quietly. 

Late  in  the  first  watch,  an  interesting  conversation  was 
overheard  between  ’Aldl  and  the  Nassir. 

Last  year,  while  in  rebellion  against  the  government, 
Aldl,  at  the  head  of  his  Bedawin  followers,  had  swept 


ARAB  FRATERNIZATION.  237 

these  plains,  and  carried  off  a  great  many  horses,  cattle, 
and  sheep ;  among  them  the  droves  and  herds  of  the 
Nassir.  There  had,  in  consequence,  been  little  cordiality 
between  them  since  they  met  at  Tiberias ;  but,  to-night, 
Nassir  asked  ’Akil  if  he  did  not  think  that  he  had  acted 
very  badly  in  carrying  off  his  property.  The  latter  an¬ 
swered  no;  that  Nassir  was  then  his  enemy,  and  that  he, 
’Akil,  had  acted  according  to  the  usages  of  war  among 
the  tribes.  The  Nassir  then  asked  about  the  disposition 
made  of  various  animals,  and  especially  of  a  favourite 
mare.  ’Akil  said  that  he  had  killed  so  many  of  the 
sheep,  given  so  many  away,  and  sold  the  rest ;  the  same 
with  the  cattle  and  horses.  As  to  the  mare,  he  said  he 
had  taken  a  fancy  to  her,  and  that  it  was  the  one  he  now 
rode.  This  the  Emir  knew  full  well. 

After  some  further  conversation,  Nassir  proposed  that 
they  should  bury  all  wrongs  and  become  brothers.  To 
this  ’Akil  assented.  The  former,  thereupon,  plucked 
some  grass  and  earth,  and  lifting  up  the  corner  of  ’Akifs 
aba,  placed  them  beneath  it ;  and  then  the  two  Arabs  em¬ 
bracing,  with  clasped  hands,  swore  eternal  brotherhood. 

When  questioned,  immediately  after,  upon  the  subject, 
’Akil  stated  that  so  obligatory  was  the  oath  of  fraternity, 
that  should  he  hereafter  carry  off  any  thing  from  a  hos¬ 
tile  tribe,  which  had  once,  no  matter  how  far  back,  been 
taken  from  the  Emir,  he  would  be  bound  to  restore  it. 

As  an  instance,  he  mentioned  that  when  he  was  in  the 
service  of  Ibrahim  Pasha,  there  were  nine  other  tribes 
besides  his  own;  and  that  in  one  of  their  expeditions 
they  carried  off  a  number  of  sheep,  forty  of  which  were 
assigned  as  his  portion :  that  shortly  after,  an  Arab  came 
forward  and  claimed  some  of  them  on  the  ground  of  fra¬ 
ternization.  ’Akil  told  him  that  he  did  not  know  and 
had  never  seen  him  before ;  but  the  man  asserted  and 


238  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  JORDAN. 

proved  that  their  fathers  had  exchanged  vows,  and  the 
sheep  claimed  were  consequently  restored. 

These  Bedawin  are  pretty  much  in  the  same  state  as 
the  barons  of  England  and  the  robber  knights  of  Germany 
were,  some  centuries  back. 

We  have,  to-day,  descended  ten  moderate  and  six  ugly 
rapids,  and  passed  three  tributaries  to  the  Jordan,  two 
quite  small,  and  one  of  respectable  size.  Also  four  large 
and  seventeen  small  islands.  We  have  now  reached  a 
part  of  the  river  not  visited  by  Franks,  at  least  since  the 
time  of  the  crusades,  except  by  three  English  sailors, 
who  were  robbed,  and  fled  from  it,  a  short  distance  below. 
The  streams  have  all  names  given  them  by  the  Arabs, 
but  the  islands  are  nameless  and  unknown. 

The  course  of  the  river,  to-day,  has  varied  from  north¬ 
west  to  south,  and  from  thence  to  east;  but  the  prevailing 
direction  has  been  to  the  southward  and  westward.  The 
velocity  of  the  current  has  ranged  from  two  to  eight 
knots  per  hour;  the  average  about  three  and  a  half 
knots.  The  depth  has  been  in  proportion  to  the  width 
and  velocity  of  the  stream.  At  one  place  the  river  was 
eighty  yards  wide  and  only  two  feet  deep.  The  average 
width  has  been  fifty-six  yards,  and  the  average  depth  a 
little  more  than  four  feet. 

Where  the  river  was  narrow,  the  bottom  was  usually 
rock  or  hard  sand,  and  in  the  wider  parts  soft  mud.  In 
the  narrowest  parts,  also,  the  river  flowed  between  high 
banks ;  either  bald-faced  alluvial  hills,  or  conglomerate, — 
in  one  place,  fossil  rock.  Where  the  stream  was  wide 
the  banks  were  low  alluvion ;  towards  the  latter  part  of 
the  day,  resting  upon  sand  or  gravel.  Where  the  stream 
was  wide  and  sluggish,  running  between  alluvial  banks, 
the  water  was  discoloured;  in  some  places  of  a  milky 
hue.  Where  narrow,  and  flowing  between  and  over 
rocks,  it  was  comparatively  clear.  At  starting,  in  the 


AN  EASTERN  SCENE. 


239 


morning,  the  temperature  of  the  air  was  78°,  and  of  the 
water,  twelve  inches  below  the  surface,  71°.  In  the 
course  of  the  day,  the  former  rose  eight  and  the  latter 
three  degrees.  Excepting  once,  early  in  the  afternoon, 
when  a  light  air  from  the  eastward  swept  through  an 
opening,  it  was  a  perfect  calm,  and  the  heat  felt  oppres¬ 
sive  ;  yet  less  so,  than  the  dazzling  glare  of  light.  We 
have  twice,  to-day,  struck  on  rocks,  but  suffered  no  ma¬ 
terial  damage. 

Our  encampment  was  close  to  the  rivers  edge,  where 
the  banks  were  thickly  wooded  and  the  soil  sandy.  In 
front,  the  stream  was  divided  by  a  small  island,  below 
which  was  the  ford  of  Scka. 

The  scene  of  camping  for  the  night  is  ever  a  busy  one. 
The  uprearing  of  tents,  the  driving  of  the  tent-pins,  the 
wearied  camels  standing  by,  waiting  to  be  disburdened, 
all  remind  one  forcibly  of  the  graphic  descriptions  of  the 
Bible.  There  are  other  features,  too,  illustrative  of  our 
brotherhood  with  the  children  of  the  desert  —  Sherif, 
seated  beneath  a  tree,  or  under  the  shadow  of  a  rock, 
issuing  commands  to  his  immediate  followers,  and  ’Aldl 
reconnoitering  from  the  summit  of  a  hill,  or  scouring 
about  the  plain,  stationing  the  outposts. 

With  us,  too,  everything  bore  the  aspect  of  a  military 
expedition  through  a  hostile  territory.  The  boats,  when 
practicable,  were  securely  moored  in  front,  and  covered 
by  the  blunderbuss ;  the  baggage  was  piled  between  the 
tents,  and  the  sentries  paced  to  and  fro  in  front  and  rear. 

Among  the  trees  which  bordered  the  river-bank,  the 
horses  of  our  Arab  friends  were  this  evening  tethered, 
while  our  own  luxuriously  enjoyed  a  clandestine  supper 
in  the  wheat-field  near  at  hand. 

At  this  time,  our  benign  and  ever-smiling  Mustafa, 
with  his  bilious  turban  and  marvellous  pants,  wide  and 
draperied,  but  not  hiding  his  parenthetical  legs,  seemed 


240 


PICTURESQUE  GROUPS. 


almost  ubiquitous.  At  one  time,  he  was  tearing  some¬ 
thing  madly  from  his  laden  donkey;  and  the  next,  he 
was  filling  pipes,  and,  hand  on  breast,  presenting  them 
with  low  salaams ;  or,  like  a  fiend,  darting  off  after  the 
Doctor’s  horse,  which,  having  evaded  the  watchful  Has- 
san,  was  charging  upon  the  others,  and  frightening  “the 
souls  of  his  fearful  adversaries”  with  the  thunder  of  his 
nostrils. 

The  day  had  been  one  of  intense  heat,  and  the  physical 
relaxation,  caused  by  fatigue  and  exposure,  made  us  ex¬ 
tremely  sensitive  to  the  chilly  atmosphere  of  evening. 

The  pale  light  of  the  rising  moon,  and  the  red  flush  of 
sunset,  made  the  twilight  linger,  and  gave  to  the  east  and 
the  west  the  appearance  of  an  auroral  ice-light.  The 
dew  fell  early  and  heavily,  and  the  firm  white  sand  of  the 
river-bank  was  cold  to  the  feet. 

As  night  advanced,  the  blaze  of  our  watch-fires  dis¬ 
pelled,  to  a  great  extent,  the  chill  of  the  air  around  us. 
Our  Arab  scouts  were  posted  on  the  hills  which  overlooked 
the  camp,  and  our  own  guards,  with  glittering  carbines 
and  long,  keen  bayonets,  were  pacing  in  front  and  rear 
of  the  baggage  and  the  tents.  The  scene  was  wild  and 
picturesque. 

Around  the  blazing  fires,  which  shot  long,  flickering 
tongues  of  flame  into  the  night,  and  seemed  to  devour 
darkness,  were  gathered  in  circles,  groups  of  Franks  and 
wild  Bedawin,  solemnly  smoking  the  chibouque,  drinking 
coffee,  or  listening  eagerly,  as,  with  wild  gesticulations, 
one  related  an  adventure  of  the  day,  or  personal  incident 
of  times  gone  by.  Who,  in  the  desert  or  the  wilderness, 
would  not  listen  to  the  veriest  idle  legend  that  ever  bel¬ 
dame  croaked  over  the  blaze  of  “Yule,”  on  Christmas  eve? 

The  camels  were  lying  here  and  there  about  the  camp, 
silent  and  motionless,  utterly  unconscious  of  their  merit 
as  objects  in  the  picturesque. 


ARAB  MUSIC. 


241 


The  tents  were  pitched  upon  a  sandy  bank,  in  a  small 
opening,  flanked  by  groves  of  willow  and  tamarisk,  with 
an  inner  edging  of  acacia.  The  ford  ran  diagonally  from 
bank  to  bank,  across  the  most  impetuous,  but  shallow 
part  of  the  stream.  The  bright  watch-fires  threw  bars 
of  red  and  trembling  light  over  the  shadowed  waters,  and 
illuminated  the  sombre  willow  groves  beyond,  among 
which,  as  if  entangled  in  their  boughs,  hung  motionless, 
as  clouds  hang  in  the  chasms  of  mountains,  a  long  and 
silvery  film  of  unfallen  dew ;  while  the  purple  shadows 
of  the  distant  hills  mingled  with  the  cold  grey  of  the 
evening,  rendering  all  beyond  dim  and  mysterious ;  and 
the  peaked  and  jagged  outlines  of  the  lofty  range,  cut 
sharp  and  black  against  the  sky,  now  faint  and  pale,  yet 
relieved  by  the  beautiful  swell  and  regular  waving  curva¬ 
ture  of  the  lower  hills. 

Before  the  blue  tent  of  Sherif  were  gathered  our  Arab 
friends,  a  large  circle  of  swart  faces,  illuminated  by  the 
light  of  a  crackling  fire,  listening  to  ’Akil’s  bard,  who 
sang  Arabic  love-songs,  to  the  accompaniment  of  his 
rebabeh,  or  viol  of  one  string. 

As  we  drew  near  to  enjoy  this  wild  romantic  concert, 
the  Sherif  and  ’Akll,  stepping  forth  from  the  circle,  invited 
us  among  them,  with  an  urbanity  and  kindness  of  manner, 
unsurpassed  by  the  courtesy  of  highest  civilization.  Mats 
were  spread  for  us  at  the  opening  of  the  tent,  and  the 
Tourgiman  having  interpreted  their  many  expressions 
of  welcome,  the  bard  was  requested  to  continue  the  music, 
which  had  been  interrupted  by  our  approach. 

Without  affecting  a  slight  cough,  or  making  vain  ex¬ 
cuses,  he  immediately  complied.  With  his  semicircular 
bow  he  began  a  prelude,  “  fashioning  the  way  in  which 
his  voice  should  go,”  and  then  burst  forth  in  song.  The 
melody  was  as  rude  as  the  instrument  which  produced  it, 
a  music,  not  such  as  Keats  describes— ^ 

21  o 


242 


AN  ARAB  MINSTREL. 


u  Yearning  like  a  God  in  pain;” 

but  a  low,  long-drawn,  mournful  wail,  like  the  cry  of  the 
jackal  set  to  music.  He  sang  of  love,  but  had  it  been  a 
dirge,  the  wail  of  the  living  over  the  dead,  it  could  not 
have  been  more  heart-rending  and  lugubrious.  There 
was  no  passion,  no  mirthfulness,  no  expression  of  hope  or 
fear ;  but  a  species  of  despairing,  chromatic  anguish ;  and 
we  could  not  refrain  from  regarding  the  instrument  as  an 
enchanted  sexton’s  spade,  singing  of  the  graves  it  had 
dug,  and  the  bodies  it  had  covered  with  mould. 

And  yet,  these  children  of  the  desert  enjoyed  the  per¬ 
formance,  and  from  under  the  dark  brows,  made  darker 
by  the  low,  slouching  koofeeyeh,  their  eyes  glistened,  and 
the  red  light  gleamed  on  glittering  teeth  displayed  in 
smiles  of  approbation. 

These  demonstrations  of  enjoyment  appeared  strange 
to  us  5  for  the  song,  to  our  ears,  told  only  of  mattocks  and 
shrouds  and  the  grave-diggers  song  in  Hamlet ; — 

u  A  pickaxe  and  a  spade,  a  spade, 

For - ,  and  a  winding-sheet.” 

The  bard  was  not  a  true  Bedawin,  but  of  Egyptian  parent¬ 
age,  and  resembled  more  our  ideas  of  a  ghoul  than  a 
human  being.  Low  of  stature  and  lightly  built,  he  was 
thin,  even  to  attenuation ;  and  his  complexion  of  a  pale, 
waxy,  cadaverous  hue.  His  eyes  were  small,  black,  and 
piercing,  shadowed  by  thick  pent-house  brows,  which, 
like  his  straggling  beard,  was  nearly  red ;  his  lips  livid, 
his  teeth  white  and  pointed,  and  the  nails  of  his  skinny 
hands  as  long  as  talons.  His  whole  appearance  assisted 
materially  in  sustaining  the  ideas  of  coffins  and  palls,  mil¬ 
dew  and  worms,  and  other  grave-yard  garniture. 

The  costume  of  the  minstrel  was  not  materially  differ¬ 
ent  from  that  of  his  Bedawin  companions.  His  head, 
like  theirs,  was  closely  shaven  above  the  temples,  and 


THE  'MINSTREL’S  ATTIRE. 


243 


covered  with  a  small  red  skull-cap  or  tarbouch,  over 
which  was  thrown  the  koofeeyeh,  a  coarse  cotton  shawl 
or  kerchief,  triangularly  folded,  with  broad  stripes  of  white 
and  yellow,  the  ends  ornamented  with  a  plaited  fringe, 
hung  on  each  side  of  the  face  down  to  the  shoulders,  and 
was  confined  over  the  tarbouch  by  two  bands  of  the  akal, 
a  roughly  twisted,  black  cord  of  camel’s  hair.  An  aba, 
or  narrow  cloak  made  of  camel’s  hair,  of  extremely  coarse 
texture,  broadly  striped  white  and  brown,  and  fashioned 
like  the  Syrian  burnoose,  or  horseman’s  cloak,  hung  neg¬ 
ligently  about  his  person. 

Beneath  the  aba  he  wore  a  long,  loose  cotton  shirt,  of 
very  equivocal  white,  confined  at  the  waist  by  a  narrow 
leathern  belt ;  a  pair  of  faded  red  buskins, 

u  A  world  too  wide  for  his  shrunk  shanks,” 

and  fearfully  acute  at  the  toes,  where  they  curved  like  a 
sleigh-runner,  completed  his  costume. 

While  the  bard  and  his  rebabeh  discoursed  iiiost  melan¬ 
choly  music  for  our  entertainment,  the  black  and  aro¬ 
matic  kahweh*  (coffee)  was  handed  round  by  an  attendant 
of  ’Akil  Aga,  —  a  tall,  wiry-framed  Nubian,  with  keen 
white  teeth,  and  a  complexion  as  black  as  Orcus,  —  black 
even  to  the  surface  of  the  heavy  lips,  and  with  a  skin 
drawn  with  extreme  tension  over  the  angular  facial 
bones,  giving  it  the  dry  and  embalmed  appearance  of  a 
Memphian  mummy. 

Each  of  us  having  drunk  his  little  cup  of  coffee  and 
smoked  a  pipe,  the  stem  of  which  had  run  the  gauntlet 
of  every  pair  of  lips  in  that  patriarchal  group,  we  were 
about  to  retire,  when  the  Emir  Nassir,  the  wild  old  black¬ 
guard,  seizing  (he  never  took  anything)  the  “  sexton’s 

*  Kahweh  is  an  old  Arabic  term  for  wine  ;  Turkish,  kahveh  ;  Italian, 
caffe ;  English,  coffee.  Can  it  be  that  the  Muslims,  in  their  affection,  pre¬ 
served  the  name  of  the  beverage  interdicted  by  their  prophet  ? 


i 


244 


THE  EMIR’S  LOVE-SONG. 


spade  (tlie  rebabeh)  ,  to  our  unfeigned  astonishment  com¬ 
menced  a  song  as  if  be  too  were  a  ghoul  and  could  give 
us  in  character  some  church-yard  stave  in  honour  of  his 
ghostly  trade. 

Translated  by  the  Tourgiman,  and  versified  by  Mr. 
Bedlow,  his  song  ran  thus  : 

“  At  her  window,  from  afar, 

I  saw  my  love,  my  Bedawiyeh, 

Her  eyes  shone  through  her  white  kinaa, 

It  made  me  feel  quite  faint  to  see  her.” 

While  singing,  the  Ogre  Prince  looked  with  grotesque  de¬ 
votedness  and  an  inimitable  languishing  air  upon  Sherif 
Musaid,  sitting  near  him,  who  for  the  nonce  he  had  ideal¬ 
ized  into  his  “  love,”  his  “  Bedawiyeh.”  The  song  was 
evidently  a  foreign  one,  perhaps  derived  from  Persia.  An 
Arab  poet  would  have  placed  his  love  at  the  opening  of 
the  tent,  or  beside  the  fountain.  A  Bedawiyeh,  the  fawn 
of  the  desert,  and  a  window,  the  loop-hole  of  what  they 
consider  a  prison,  accord  but  ill  together. 

The  amateur  musician  surpassed  the  professional  one, 
and  the  prince  transcended  the  bard,  as  well  in  execution 
as  in  the  quality  of  his  voice.  The  music,  although  more 
varied  in  character  and  modulation,  was  essentially  the 
same  in  its  prevailing  sadness.  Truly  “  all  the  merry- 
hearted  do  sigh”  in  this  strange  land ;  a  land  from  which 
“  gladness  is  taken  away,”  and  mirth,  where  it  doth  exist, 
hath  a  dash  of  grief  and  a  tone  of  desperate  sorrow.  The 
sound  of  tabret  and  harp,  of  sackbut  and  psaltery,  the 
lute,  the  viol,  and  the  instrument  of  two  strings,  are 
heard  no  more  in  the  land ;  and  the  “  rebabeh,”  with  its 
sighing  one  string,  befits  the  wilderness  and  the  wander¬ 
ing  people  who  dwell  therein. 

Not  even  the  Emir,  although  he  threw  all  the  mirth  he 
could  command  into  his  voice,  and  touched  the  string 
with  quick,  elastic  fingers,  striking  out  notes  and  half- 


SHERIF  MAS  A' AD  —  EMIR  NASSIR-BENI  SUK’R  SHEIKH. 


— 


. 


* 


* 


■  .  I 


V 

- 

I 


DEPARTURE. 


245 


notes  with  musical  precision ;  —  although  his  dark  eyes 
flashed  and  his  white  teeth  glistened,  as  he  smiled  seduc¬ 
tively  upon  Musaid,  and  swayed  his  body  to  and  fro,  and 
nodded  his  head  to  the  measure  of  his  minstrelsy,  and 
triumphed  over  the  bard,  and  won  applause  with  every 
verse,  he  could  not  change  the  tone, — there  was  the  same 
sad  minor  running  through  the  song. 

Those  low,  complaining  tones  lingered  in  our  ears  long 
after  the  sound  had  ceased,  and  the  Arabs  were  gathered 
in  sleep  around  the  smouldering  watch-fires. 

Towards  morning,  the  wind  swept  down  upon  us  from 
the  mountain  gorges,  and  caused  some  of  us  to  dream  of 
snow-drifts  and  icicles,  and  unseasonable  baths  in  cold 
streams. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

FROM  FORD  OF  SEK’A  TO  PILGRIM’S  FORD. 

Sunday,  April  16.  A  pleasant  day — wind  light  from, 
north-east.  We  were  on  the  move  early  this  morning. 
Sherif  was  very  uneasy  about  the  boats ;  and  yet  thought 
it  advisable  for  him  to  be  with  the  caravan.  He  was 
urgent  that  the  Emir  should  accompany  us  on  the  river. 
The  latter  excused  himself  on  the  plea  of  headache. 

After  a  cup  of  coffee,  taken  standing,  started  off  with 
the  boats,  leaving  the  caravan  to  cross  over  again,  and 
proceed  down  the  right  bank. 

I  found  that  our  Arabs  were  utterly  ignorant  of  the 
course  of  the  river,  or  the  nature  of  its  current  and  its 
shores.  Heretofore,  we  had  been  enabled  to  see  the  cara- 
21  * 


246 


CHANGE  IN  THE  VEGETATION. 


van  at  least  once  in  a  day’s  journey  ;  but  yesterday,  from 
the  impossibility  of  penetrating  along  the  left  bank  and 
the  high  precipitous  character  of  the  hills  on  the  right, 
we  saw  nothing  of  them,  and  our  meeting  even  at  night, 
was,  for  a  long  time,  very  doubtful. 

The  country  presented  the  same  appearance  as  yester¬ 
day,  except  that  conglomerate  or  any  kind  of  rock  was 
rarely  seen ;  but  in  their  stead,  banks  of  semi-indurated 
clay.  The  lower  plain  was  evidently  narrower  and  the 
river  often  swept  alternately  against  the  hills,  mostly 
conical  in  their  shape,  and  with  bold  faces,  which  flank 
the  lower  and  mark  the  elevation  of  the  upper  plain. 

These  various  ramifications  of  mountain  ranges  and  in¬ 
tervening  platforms  and  valleys  afford,  according  to  Hum¬ 
boldt,  evidences  of  ancient  volcanic  eruptions  undergone 
by  the  crust  of  the  globe,  these  having  been  elevated  by 
matter  thrust  up  in  the  line  of  enormous  cracks  and 
fissures. 

The  vegetation  was  nearly  the  same  in  character,  save 
that  it  was  more  luxuriant  and  of  brighter  tint  on  the 
borders  of  the  stream ;  more  parched  and  dull  on  either 
side  beyond  it.  The  oleander  increased ;  there  was  less 
of  the  asphodel,  and  the  acacia  was  rarely  seen,  as  here¬ 
tofore,  a  short  distance  inland.  The  tamarisk  was  more 
dense  and  lofty,  and  the  canes  were  frequently  thick  and 
impenetrable.  There  were  many  drift-trees  in  the  stream, 
and  bushes  and  branches  were  lodged  high  up  in  the  trees 
which  lined  the  banks ;  and  much  above  the  latter,  con¬ 
clusive  marks  of  a  recent  freshet.  There  were  many 
trees  on  each  side,  charred  and  blackened  by  fire — caused, 
doubtless,  by  the  Arabs  having  burned  the  dried-up  grass 
to  renew  their  pastures.  The  ghurrah  was  also  becoming 
abundant;  and  we  noticed  that  whenever  the  soil  was 
dry,  the  leaves  of  this  tree  were  most  silvery. 

About  an  hour  after  starting,  we  came  to  the  place 


] 


SUSPICIOUS  NEIGHBOURHOOD.  247 

where  Molyneux’s  boat  was  attacked  while  he  was  jour¬ 
neying  down  by  land.  Stopped  to  examine.  It  is  just 
above  a  very  rapid  part  of  the  river,  where  the  boat  could 
not  have  been  stopped  if  the  crew  had  kept  her  in  the 
stream,  unless  most  of  them  had  been  killed  by  gunshots 
from  the  shore.  As  they  all  escaped,  I  concluded  that 
they  were  surprised  when  asleep,  or  loitering  on  their 
way.  We  here  saw  tracks  of  a  tiger,  and  of  other  wild 
beasts  which  we  could  not  identify. 

In  many  places  the  trees  were  drooping  to  the  water’s 
edge,  and  the  channel  sometimes  swept  us  under  the 
branches,  thereby  preventing  us  from  carrying  our  awn¬ 
ings  ;  in  consequence  of  which,  we  suffered  more  than 
heretofore  from  exposure  to  the  sun. 

At  8.30,  there  were  Arabs  in  sight  on  a  high  hill,  and 
we  heard  others  in  the  swamp ;  apprehending  a  strata¬ 
gem,  we  laid  on  the  oars  and  stood  by  our  arms ;  but  we 
were  not  molested. 

At  9.30,  saw  again  tracks  of  wild  animals  on  shore. 
At  10.38,  we  struck  upon  a  snag,  the  current  very  strong. 
At  11.20,  saw  some  of  our  scouts  on  a  hill.  11.40, 
stopped  to  take  meridian  observations.  Temperature  of 
the  air,  92° ;  of  the  water,  72°. 

At  12.05,  started  again.  At  12.28,  Arabs  hailed  from 
a  high  hill  on  the  right,  asking  whether  the  horsemen 
who  had  passed  were  friends  or  enemies.  We  supposed 
that  they  referred  to  our  scouts.  At  1  P.  M.,  again  saw 
tracks  of  wild  animals  upon  the  shore ;  also  a  great  many 
wild  pigeons,  some  of  them  very  large.  The  banks, 
hereabouts,  were  of  red  clay,  resting  on  white ;  the  last, 
semi-indurated,  and  appearing  like  stone.  There  were 
many  fissures  in  the  hills  and  much  debris  fallen  into  the 
stream.  At  a  sudden  turn,  started  up  a  flock  of  partridges. 

At  1.54,  we  saw  a  castor-bean  plant  growing  upon  the 
shore ;  and,  shortly  after,  passed  under  an  overhanging 


248  PREPARATIONS  FOR  AN  ATTACK 

tree,  with  a  bush  fifteen  feet  up  in  its  branches,  lodged 
there  by  a  recent  freshet ;  for  it  was  deciduous,  and  the 
green  leaves  of  the  early  season  were  upon  it.  The  river 
must  this  year  have  overflowed  to  the  foundations  of  the 
second  terrace.  We  saw  some  drooping  lily-plants,  long 
past  their  flowering. 

At  2.04,  the  river  running  between  high  triangular 
hills,  we  struck  in  descending  a  rapid ;  clothes,  note-book, 
and  papers,  thoroughly  wet,  but  the  boats  uninjured. 

At  2.27,  came  in  sight  of  the  encampment,  the  tents, 
as  heretofore,  already  pitched;  —  the  camping-place,  Mu- 
kutta  Damieh  (Ford  of  Damieh),  where  the  road  from 
Nabulus  to  Salt  crosses  the  river. 

We  made  but  a  short  day’s  journey,  in  consequence  of 
there  not  being  another  place  where  the  boats  and 
caravan  could  meet  between  this  and  the  bathing-place 
of  the  Christian  pilgrims. 

Soon  after  our  arrival,  both  Sherif  and  Akil,  calling 
me  aside,  expressed  their  belief  that  the  Emir  feigned  a 
headache  in  the  morning  from  fear  of  going  in  the  boats. 
The  same  idea  had  occurred  to  me  before,  but  was  dis¬ 
missed  as  an  ungenerous  one.  They,  however,  cited  cir¬ 
cumstantial  but  conclusive  proof  that  their  suspicion  was 
not  unfounded. 

In  the  early  part  of  their  march  to-day,  the  caravan 
anticipated  a  skirmish.  A  strange  Arab,  supposed  to  be¬ 
long  to  a  marauding  party,  was  seen  in  the  distance. 
The  line  was  closed  and  the  scouts  came  in,  all  but  a 
few  that  were  sent  to  reconnoitre  a  deep  ravine  in  front. 
Although  but  one  man  was  seen,  it  was  suspected  that 
many  were  concealed  in  the  ravine ;  for  directly  opposite 
was  a  large  encampment  of  black  tents. 

Our  Bedawin  felt  or  feigned  a  conviction  that  an  en¬ 
gagement  would  take  place,  and  all  due  preparations  were 
immediately  made.  The  camels  were  halted,  and  the 


AN  OLD  ROMAN  BRIDGE.  249 

horsemen,  collecting  in  front,  waited  for  the  reconnoiter- 
ing  scouts  to  return.  In  the  mean  time,  our  Arabs  went 
through  their  feats  of  horsemanship,  singing  their  war- 
song,  and  seemed  to  be  endeavouring  to  work  themselves 
into  a  state  of  phrensy.  At  their  solicitation,  Mr.  Dale 
laid  aside  his  hat  and  put  on  a  tarbouch  and  koofeeyeh. 
Guns  were  unslung  and  freshly  capped,  and  swords  were 
loosened  in  their  scabbards. 

At  a  signal  from  one  of  the  returning  scouts,  the  word 
was  given  to  advance.  With  the  rest,  Mr.  Bedlow  spurred 
his  horse  to  urge  him  forward ;  but,  less  valorous  or  more 
discreet  than  his  rider,  the  more  he  was  spurred  the  far¬ 
ther  he  backed  from  the  scene  of  anticipated  conflict. 

The  other  party  kept  aloof,  proving  neither  hostile  nor 
friendly,  and  ’Akil,  as  he  passed,  contemptuously  blew  his 
nose  at  them.  They  were  believed  to  belong  to  the  tribe 
El  Bely  or  El  Mikhail  Meshakah,  whose  territories  were 
hereabouts.  Doubtless,  they  were  the  same  who  hailed 
us,  to  know  whether  the  horsemen  who  had  passed  were 
friends  or  enemies. 

After  dinner,  some  of  the  party  crossed  the  river  to 
examine  the  ruins  of  a  bridge,  seen  by  the  land  party 
from  the  upper  terrace,  just  before  descending  to  the  river. 
They  had  to  force  their  way  through  a  tangled  thicket, 
and  found  a  Boman  bridge  spanning  a  dry  bed,  once,  per¬ 
haps,  the  main  channel  of  the  Jordan,  now  diverted  in  its 
course. 

The  bridge  was  of  Boman  construction,  with  one  arch 
entire,  except  a  longitudinal  fissure  on  the  top,  and  the 
ruins  of  two  others,  one  of  them  at  right  angles  with  the 
main  arch,  probably  for  a  mill-sluice.  The  span  of  the 
main  arch  was  fifteen  feet ;  the  height,  from  the  bed  of 
the  stream  to  the  keystone,  twenty  feet.  From  an  eleva¬ 
tion,  the  party  could  see,  towards  the  east,  three  or  four 


250 


AN  ARAB  BAKE-OVEN. 


miles  distant  from  them,  a  line  of  verdure  indicating  a 
water-course.  The  Arabs  say  that  it  is  the  Zerka  (J abok), 
which,  on  the  maps,  flows  into  the  Jordan  very  near  this 
place.  It  approaches  quite  close,  and  then  pursues  a 
parallel  course  with  the  Jordan.  To-morrowr,  we  shall 
probably  determine  the  exact  point  of  junction.  To  the 
best  of  our  knowledge,  this  bridge  has  never  before  been 
described  by  travellers. 

We  were  amused  this  evening  at  witnessing  an  Arab 
kitchen  in  full  operation.  The  burning  embers  of  a  watch- 
fire  were  scraped  aside,  and  the  heated  ground  scooped  in 
a  hollow  to  the  depth  of  six  or  eight  inches,  and  about 
two  feet  in  diameter.  Within  this  hole  was  laid,  with 
scrupulous  exactness  of  fit  and  accommodation  to  its  con¬ 
cave  surface,  a  mass  of  half-kneaded  dough,  made  of  flour 
and  water.  The  coals  were  again  raked  over  it,  and  the 
fire  replenished.  A  huge  pot  of  rice  was  then  placed 
upon  the  fire,  into  which,  from  time  to  time,  a  quantity 
of  liquid  butter  was  poured,  and  the  compound  stirred 
with  a  stout  branch  of  a  tree,  not  entirely  denuded  of  its 
leaves.  When  the  mess  was  sufficiently  cooked,  the  pot 
was  removed  from  the  fire,  the  coals  again  withdrawn, 
and  the  bread  taken  from  its  primitive  oven.  Besmeared 
with  dirt  and  ashes,  and  dotted  with  cinders,  it  bore  few 
evidences  of  being  an  article  of  food.  In  consistency,  as 
well  as  in  outward  appearance,  it  resembled  a  long-used 
blacksmith’s  apron,  rounded  off'  at  the  corners.  The 
dirtiest  ash-pone  of  the  southern  negro  would  have  been 
a  delicacy,  compared  to  it. 

The  whole  party  gathered  round  the  pot  in  the  open 
air,  and  each  one  tearing  off  a  portion  of  the  leather-bread, 
worked  it  into  a  scoop  or  spoon,  and,  dipping  pell-mell 
into  the  pilau,  made  a  voracious  meal,  treating  the  spoons 
as  the  Argonauts  served  their  tables,  eating  them  for 
dessert.  With  a  wash  in  the  Jordan,  they  were  imme  * 


MORE  BARRENNESS.  251 

diately  after  ready  for  sleep,  and  in  half  an  hour  were  as 
motionless  as  the  heaps  of  baggage  around  them. 

Monday,  April  17.  At  an  early  hour,  Mustafa,  shiver¬ 
ing  and  yawning,  was  moving  about  in  preparation  of  the 
morning  meal.  Long  before  the  sun  had  risen  over  the 
mountains  of  Gilead,  the  whole  encampment  was  astir,  and 
all  was  haste,  for  there  was  a  long  day’s  work  before  us. 

Although  the  air  was  damp  and  chilly,  we  knew,  from 
past  experience,  that  before  noon  the  sun  would  blaze 
upon  us  with  a  power  sufficient  to  carbonize  those  who 
should  be  unprotected  from  its  fierceness.  Moreover, 
from  the  plateau  behind  our  camp,  we  could  see  nothing 
towards  the  south  but  rough  and  barren  cliffs,  sweeping 
into  the  purple  haze  of  the  lower  Ghor.  And  the  rolling 
sand-hills,  which  form  the  surface  of  the  upper  plain, 
stretched  far  along  the  bases  of  the  mountains  without  a 
mark  of  cultivation,  or  the  shelter  of  a  tree.  Heretofore, 
we  had  seen  patches  of  grain,  but  there  were  none  now 
visible,  and  all  before  us  was  the  bleakness  of  desolation. 

The  banks  of  the  river,  too,  were  less  verdant,  except 
immediately  upon  the  margin,  and  the  vegetation  was 
mostly  confined  to  the  gliurrah,  the  tamarisk,  and  the 
cane ;  the  oleander  and  the  asphodel  no  longer  fringed 
the  margin,  and  the  acacia  was  nowhere  seen  upon  the 
bordering  fields. 

As  soon  as  we  were  up,  I  sent  for  the  Emir,  the  Sherif, 
and  ’Akll,  and,  in  presence  of  the  two  last,  told  the  first 
that,  as  we  were  not  now  in  his  territory,  we  no  longer 
required  his  presence.  I  then  paid  him  for  the  services 
of  the  guides  he  had  furnished,  and  for  the  extra  assist¬ 
ance  they  had  rendered  in  getting  the  boats  down  the 
rapids.  As  he  had  declined  going  in  the  boats  yesterday, 
when  his  presence  might  have  been  important,  I  refused 
to  give  him  anything  more  than  the  aba  and  koofeeyeh 
he  had  before  received.  ’Akil  accompanied  him  to  the 


252 


FLOATING  TREES. 


top  of  the  hill,  where  they  both  alighted,  and,  in  the  sight 
of  the  camp,  embraced  each  other. 

With  a  bite  and  a  sop  from  Mustafa’s  frying-pan,  we 
were  off  at  6.25  A.  M.  The  river,  forty  yards  wide  and 
seven  feet  deep,  was  flowing  at  the  rate  of  six  knots  down 
a  rapid  descent,  with  much  drift-wood  in  the  stream. 

We  soon  passed  two  large  islands,  and  at  6.57,  saw 
tracks  of  wild  beasts  on  the  shore. 

Many  large  trees  were  floating  down,  and  a  number  were 
lodged  against  the  banks,  some  of  them  recently  uprooted, 
for  they  had  their  green  leaves  upon  them,  and,  as  on  yes¬ 
terday,  there  were  some  small  ones  lodged  high  up  in  the 
branches  of  the  overhanging  trees.  The  banks  were  all 
alluvion,  and  we  began  to  see  the  cane  in  blossom.  Alto¬ 
gether,  the  vegetation  was  more  tropical  than  heretofore. 

At  9  A.  M.,  quite  warm.  Many  birds  were  singing  about 
the  banks  and  under  cover  of  the  foliage,  but  we  saw  few 
of  them ;  now  and  then  some  pigeons,  doves,  and  cranes, 
and  occasionally  a  bulbul.  At  10.04,  stopped  to  examine 
a  hill,  and  collected  specimens  of  semi-indurated  clay, 
coated  with  efflorescence  of  lime.  The  bases  of  the  ridges 
on  each  side  presented  little  evidences  of  vegetation  or 
fertility  of  soil,  notwithstanding  their  proximity  to  the 
river.  A  few  scrubby  bushes  were  scattered  here  and 
there,  exhibiting  the  utter  sterility  of  the  country 
through  which  we  were  journeying. 

Fields  of  thistles  and  briars  occasionally  varied  the 
scene  ;  and  their  sharp  projecting  thorns  bore  the  motto 
of  the  Gael,  “  Nemo  me  impune  lacessit.” 

The  hills  which  bounded  the  valley  were  immense 
masses  of  silicious  conglomerate,  which,  with  occasional 
limestone,  extended  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  show¬ 
ing  the  geological  formation  of  the  Ghor  from  Lake  Tibe¬ 
rias  to  the  Dead  Sea,  where  the  limestone  is  said  to  pre  • 
ponderate. 


SALINE  INCRUSTATION.  253 

High  up  in  the  faces  of  these  hills  were  immense 
caverns  and  excavations,  whether  natural  or  artificial  we 
could  not  tell.  The  mouths  of  these  caves  were  black¬ 
ened,  as  if  by  smoke.  They  may  be  the  haunts  of  pre¬ 
datory  robbers.  At  11.40,  stopped  for  meridian  observa¬ 
tion,  near  a  huge  conglomerate  rock. 

At  1.20,  came  to  the  River  Jabok  (Zerka),  flowing  in 
from  E.  N.  E.,  a  small  stream  trickling  down  a  deep  and 
wide  torrent  bed.  Stopped  to  examine  it.  The  water 
was  sweet,  but  the  stones  upon  the  bare  exposed  bank 
were  coated  with  salt.  There  was  another  bed,  then  dry, 
showing  that  in  times  of  freshet  there  were  two  outlets  to 
this  tributary,  which  is  incorrectly  placed  upon  the  maps. 

There  was  much  of  the  ghurrah,  which  seems  to 
delight  in  a  dry  soil  and  a  saline  atmosphere.  The  efflo¬ 
rescence  on  the  stones,  and  on  the  leaves  of  the  ghurrah, 
must  be  a  deposition  of  the  atmosphere,  when  the  wind 
blows  from  the  Dead  Sea,  about  twenty  miles  distant,  in 
a  direct  line. 

It  was  here  that  Jacob  wrestled  with  the  angel,  at 
whose  touch  the  sinew  of  his  thigh  shrunk  up.  In  com¬ 
memoration  of  that  event,  the  Jews,  to  this  day,  carefully 
exclude  that  sinew  from  animals  they  kill  for  food. 

This  river,  too,  marks  the  northern  boundary  of  the 
land  of  the  Ammonites. 

At  1.30,  started  again,  and  soon  after  saw  a  wild 
boar  swimming  across  the  river.  Gave  chase,  but  he 
escaped  us. 

At  4.32,  passed  a  dry  torrent-bed  on  the  right,  probably 
the  Wady  el  Hammam,  which  separated  the  lands  of  the 
tribe  of  Manasses  from  those  of  the  tribe  of  Ephraim. 
Still  opposite  to  us  was  the  land  of  the  tribe  of  Gad.  On 
that  side,  about  twenty  miles  distant,  was  Amman,  Rab- 
bath  Ammon,  the  capital  of  the  Ammonites.  The 
22 


254 


AN  ARAB  PRESENT. 


country  of  Ammon  derived  its  name  from  Ben-ammi,  the 
son  of  Lot. 

At  4.52,  we  passed  down  wild  and  dangerous  rapids, 
sweeping  along  the  base  of  a  lofty,  perpendicular  hill. 

At  5.14,  a  small  stream  on  the  left :  stopped  to  exa¬ 
mine  it;  found  the  water  clear  and  sweet;  tempera¬ 
ture,  76°. 

At  5.40,  heard  and  soon  after  caught  glimpses  of  an 
Arab  in  the  bushes  on  the  left ;  at  the  same  time  a  num¬ 
ber  of  Arabs  were  calling  loudly  to  us  from  a  hill  on  the 
right.  Stopped  for  the  other  boat  to  close  in,  and  prepared 
for  a  skirmish ;  at  this  moment  there  was  a  shot  from  above, 
and  concluding  that  the  other  boat  had  been  fired  upon,  I 
directed  the  men  to  shoot  the  first  objects  they  saw  in 
the  bushes.  Fortunately  the  man  we  had  first  seen  had 
now  become  alarmed  and  concealed  himself ;  and  imme¬ 
diately  after,  the  Fanny  Skinner  hove  in  sight,  having 
stopped  a  moment  to  fire  at  a  bird.  The  man  in  the 
bushes  proved  to  be  a  messenger  sent  by  the  Arabs  on  the 
hill  to  show  us  the  place  of  rendezvous  for  the  night. 
They  had  been  spoken  by  the  caravan  as  it  passed ;  and 
their  messenger,  instead  of  selecting  a  conspicuous  place 
on  the  right  bank,  had  crossed  over,  and  was  floundering 
through  the  thicket  when  we  came  upon  him. 

This  Arab  was  sent  by  the  sheikh  of  Huteim,  a  tribe 
near  Jericho,  and  brought  from  him  a  present  of  oranges, 
and  a  thin,  paste-like  cake  made  in  Damascus,  of  debs  (a 
syrup  from  grapes),  starch,  and  an  aromatic  seed,  I  think 
the  sesame.  The  oranges  were  peculiarly  grateful  after 
the  heat  and  fatigue  of  the  day.  The  cake  was  very  good 
if  you  were  very  hungry,  and,  like  the  marchioness’s 
lemonade,  excellent,  if  you  made-believe  very  hard. 

The  sun  went  down  and  night  gradually  closed  in  upon 
us,  and  the  rush  of  the  river  seemed  more  impetuous  as 
the  light  decreased.  We  twice  passed  down  rapids, 


A  NIGHT  VOYAGE. 


255 


taking  care  each  time  to  hug  the  boldest  shore.  Besides 
the  transition  from  light  to  darkness,  we  had  exchanged 
a  heated  and  stifling  for  a  chilly  atmosphere ;  and  while 
the  men,  more  fortunate,  kept  their  blood  in  circulation 
by  pulling  gently  with  the  oars,  the  sitters  in  the  stern- 
sheets  fairly  shivered  with  the  cold. 

There  had  been  such  a  break-down  in  the  bed  of  the 
stream  since  we  passed  the  Jabok,  and  such  evident  indi¬ 
cations  of  volcanic  formation,  that  we  became  exceedingly 
anxious.  In  the  obscure  gloom  we  seemed  to  be  station¬ 
ary  and  the  shores  to  be  flitting  by  us.  With  its  tumul¬ 
tuous  rush  the  river  hurried  us  onward,  and  we  knew 
not  what  the  next  moment  would  bring  forth — whether  it 
would  dash  us  upon  a  rock  or  plunge  us  down  a  cataract. 
The  friendly  Arab,  although  he  knew  the  fords  and  best 
camping-places  on  the  river,  in  his  own  district,  was,  like 
all  the  rest  we  had  met,  wholly  unacquainted  with  the 
stream  at  all  other  points. 

Under  other  circumstances  it  doubtless  would  have 
been  prudent  to  lie  by  until  morning ;  but  we  were  all 
wet,  had  neither  food  nor  change  of  clothing,  and  apart 
from  danger  of  attack  in  a  neighbourhood  represented  as 
peculiarly  bad,  sickness  would  have  been  the  inevitable 
consequence  of  a  night  spent  in  hunger,  cold  and  watch¬ 
fulness. 

At  9.30  P.  M.  we  arrived  at  “El  Meshra,”  the  bathing- 
place  of  the  Christian  pilgrims,  after  having  been  fifteen 
hours  in  the  boats.  This  ford  is  consecrated  by  tradition 
as  the  place  where  the  Israelites  passed  over  with  the 
ark  of  the  covenant;  and  where  our  blessed  Saviour  was 
baptized  by  John.  Feeling  that  it  would  be  desecration 
to  moor  the  boats  at  a  place  so  sacred,  we  passed  it,  and 
with  some  difficulty  found  a  landing  below. 

My  first  act  was  to  bathe  in  the  consecrated  stream, 
thanking  God,  first,  for  the  precious  favour  of  being  per- 


25G 


A  SACRED  SPOT. 


mitted  to  visit  such  a  spot ;  and  secondly  for  his  protect¬ 
ing  care  throughout  our  perilous  passage.  For  a  long 
time  after,  I  sat  upon  the  bank,  my  mind  oppressed  with 
awe,  as  I  mused  upon  the  great  and  wondrous  events 
which  had  here  occurred.  Perhaps  directly  before  me, 
for  this  is  near  Jericho,  “  the  waters  stood  and  rose  up 
upon  an  heap,”  and  the  multitudinous  host  of  the  Israel¬ 
ites  passed  over,  —  and  in  the  bed  of  the  stream,  a  few 
yards  distant,  may  be  the  twelve  stones,  marking  66  the 
place  where  the  feet  of  the  priests  which  bare  the  ark  of 
the  covenant  stood.” 

Tradition,  sustained  by  the  geographical  features  of  the 
country,  makes  this  also  the  scene  of  the  baptism  of  the 
Redeemer.  The  mind  of  man,  trammelled  by  sin,  cannot 
soar  in  contemplation  of  so  sublime  an  event.  On  that 
wondrous  day,  when  the  Deity  veiled  in  flesh  descended 
the  bank,  all  nature,  hushed  in  awe,  looked  on, — and  the 
impetuous  river,  in  grateful  homage,  must  have  stayed 
its  course,  and  gently  laved  the  body  of  its  Lord. 

In  such  a  place,  it  seemed  almost  desecration  to  permit 
the  mind  to  be  diverted  by  the  cares  which  pressed  upon 
it — but  it  was  wrong — for  next  to  faith,  surely  the  highest 
Christian  obligation  is  the  performance  of  duty. 

Over  against  this  was  no  doubt  the  Bethabara  of  the 
New  Testament,  whither  the  Saviour  retired  when  the 
Jews  sought  to  take  him  at  the  feast  of  the  dedication. 
The  interpretation  of  Bethabara,  is  u  a  place  of  passage 
over.”  Our  Lord  repaired  to  Bethabara,  where  John 
was  baptizing;  and  as  the  ford  probably  derived  its 
name  from  the  passage  of  the  Israelites  with  the  ark  of 
the  covenant,  the  inference  is  not  unreasonable  that  this 
spot  has  been  doubly  hallowed. 

In  ten  minutes  after  leaving  the  camping-ground  this 
morning,  the  caravan  struck  upon  the  plain  and  crossed 
the  wady  Faria,  pursuing  a  S.  by  W.  course.  Across  the 


CAPTURE  OF  A  CAMEL. 


257 


ravine,  they  saw  a  young  camel  browsing  among  the 
brown  fringe  and  stunted  bushes,  which,  in  these  plains, 
serve  to  protect  the  scanty  vegetation  from  the  intense 
heat  of  the  sun.  This  creature  had  evidently  strayed 
from  some  fellahin  encampment,  or  had  been  abandoned 
by  its  owners  when  pursued  by  the  Bedawin,  many  of 
whom  they  had  seen  the  day  previous  on  the  eastern  side 
of  the  Jordan.  The  camel  being  quite  wild,  racked  off  at 
full  speed  on  their  approach,  and  the  scouts  immediately 
started  in  pursuit.  Its  motion  in  running,  although  awk¬ 
ward,  was  exceedingly  rapid ;  dashing  ahead  at  a  long 
and  stretching  pace,  and  outstripping  most  of  the  horses 
in  pursuit.  Its  whole  body  swayed  regularly  with  its 
peculiar  racking  motion,  as  before  remarked,  exactly  like 
the  yawing  of  a  ship  before  the  wind.  Whether  it  walks 
or  runs,  the  camel  ever  throws  forward  its  hind  and  fore 
leg  on  the  same  side  and  at  the  same  time,  as  a  horse 
does  in  pacing.  The  fugitive  was  soon  caught,  and,  true 
to  its  early  teaching,  knelt  down  the  moment  a  hand  was 
placed  upon  its  neck.  ’Akll,  abandoning  his  mare,  mounted 
the  prize,  and,  without  bridle  or  halter,  dashed  off  at  full 
speed  over  the  plain  to  increase  the  number  of  our  beasts 
of  burden.  The  high  peak  of  “Kurn  Surtabeh,”  “horn 
of  the  rhinoceros,”  bore  W.  I  N.  from  this  point  of  their 
progress. 

Thence,  keeping  along  the  chalky  plain  at  the  base  of 
the  western  hills,  they  crossed  a  low  ridge  of  sand,  run¬ 
ning  E.  by  S.,  upon  which  they  discovered  two  upright 
stones,  marking  a  burial-place,  called  by  the  Arabs 
“  Gubboor.” 

At  9.30,  they  crossed  Wady  el  Aujeh,  and  pursued  a 
southerly  course  ;  the  faces  of  the  mountains  broken  here 
and  there  with  dark  precipices,  which  gradually  assumed 
a  dark  brown  and  reddish  hue,  with  occasional  strata 
resembling  red  sandstone. 

22  *  R 


258 


GAZELLES. 


Beyond  Wady  el  Aujeh,  the  soil  bore  a  scanty  crop  of 
grass,  now  much  parched;  and  to  the  right,  where  the 
mountains  receded  from  the  plain,  there  were  extensive 
fields  of  low,  scrubby  bushes,  powdered  with  the  clay-dust 
of  the  soil ;  on  the  left,  was  a  blank  desert,  with  one  or 
two  oases,  and  a  waving  line  of  green,  where  the  Jordan 
betrayed  itself,  at  times,  by  a  glitter  like  the  sheen  from 
bright  metal. 

It  was  now  mid-day,  and  the  heat  and  blinding  light 
of  the  sun  were  almost  insupportable  :  they  were  obliged 
to  stop  to  rest  the  wearied  caravan,  the  Arabs  making  a 
tent  of  their  abas,  supported  on  spears. 

At  1  P.  M.,  they  were  again  in  motion,  and,  passing 
through  a  field  of  wild  mustard,  came  to  an  open  space, 
nothing  hut  sand  and  rocks  —  a  perfect  desert — where 
were  traces  of  a  broad-paved  road,  which  they  believed  to 
be  Koman.  At  8  P.  M.,  for  the  first  time,  they  saw  some 
gazelles,  and  gave  chase  to  them.  At  a  low,  whistling 
noise  made  by  one  of  the  Arabs,  the  affrighted  creatures 
stopped,  and  looked  earnestly  towards  them ;  but,  owing 
to  an  incautious  movement,  they  took  to  flight,  and  went 
hounding  over  the  hills  beyond  the  possibility  of  pursuit. 

Crossing  Wady  el  Abyad,  they  passed  through  a  grove 
of  nubk  and  wild  olive,  and  came  upon  a  ruined  village. 
Shortly  after,  they  stopped  to  water  in  the  Wady  Na-wa- 
fimeh,  with  a  shallow  stream  of  clear,  sweet  water. 
Thence  leaving  the  Quarantania  (reported  to  be  the 
mountain  of  our  Saviour’s  fasting  and  temptation)  on  the 
right,  and  passing  east  of  the  fountain  healed  by  Elisha, 
and  of  Jericho,  they  came  to  Ain  el  Iladj  (Pilgrim’s  foun¬ 
tain),  in  the  plain  of  Gilgal.  Here  they  were  joined  by  a 
few  Bilia  (Jericho)  Arabs,  all  having  long-barrelled  guns, 
with  extraordinary  crooked  ram’s-horn  powder-flasks,  per¬ 
haps  modelled  after  the  horns  employed  by  the  Israelites  in 
toppling  down  the  walls  of  Jericho.  Of  this  city,  the  first 


A  GLIMPSE  OF  THE  DEAD  SEA.  259 

conquest  of  the  Israelites  west  of  the  Jordan,  and  where 
Herod  the  Great  died,  but  a  solitary  tower  remains  (if, 
indeed,  it  be  the  true  site).  How  truly  has  the  curse  of 
J oshua  respecting  it  been  fulfilled !  Here  the  wilder¬ 
ness  blossomed  as  the  rose.  A  broad  tract  was  covered 
with  the  olive,  the  nubk,  and  many  shrubs  and  flowers. 
From  it  they  had  the  first  view  of  the  Dead  Sea,  and  the 
grim  mountains  of  Moab  to  the  south-east.  There  were 
few  evidences  of  volcanic  agency  visible,  but  the  calcined 
and  desolate  aspect  indicated  the  theatre  of  a  fierce  con¬ 
flagration  ; — the  cliffs,  of  the  hue  of  ashes,  looking  as  if 
they  had  been  riven  by  thunderbolts,  and  scathed  by 
lightning. 

Pursuing  a  south-easterly  course,  they  passed  a  broad 
tract  of  argillaceous  soil,  rising  in  fantastic  hills,  among 
which  they  started  a  coney  from  its  form.  At  5  P.  M., 
they  came  upon  the  banks  of  the  river,  excessively  wea¬ 
ried,  having  been  eleven  hours  in  the  saddle. 

The  tents  had  been  pitched  by  the  land-party  before 
we  arrived,  directly  on  the  bank  down  which  the  pilgrims 
would,  early  in  the  morning,  descend  to  the  river.  Mr. 
Dale  had  objected  to  pitching  them  on  this  spot,  but  our 
Arabs  assured  him  that  the  pilgrims  would  not  arrive 
until  late  to-morrow.  The  night  was  already  far  ad¬ 
vanced,  and  the  men  were  so  weary,  that  I  thought  it 
best  to  postpone  moving  the  tents  until  the  morning. 

After  a  slight  and  hurried  supper,  we  stationed  sen¬ 
tries,  and  threw  ourselves,  exhausted,  upon  the  lap  of 
mother  earth,  with  the  tent  our  covering,  and  whatever 
we  could  find  for  pillows. 

During  the  night  there  was  an  alarm. — We  sprang 
from  the  tents  at  the  report  of  a  gun,  and  found  our  Arab 
scouts  on  the  right  hailing  some  one  on  the  opposite 
bank  3  upon  whom,  contrary  to  all  military  usage,  they 


260  AN  ARMY  OF  PILGRIMS. 

liad  previously  fired.  It  proved  to  be  a  fellah,  attempting 
to  cross  the  ford,  which  was  too  deep. 

The  alarm,  although  a  false  one,  had  the  good  effect 
of  showing  that  all  were  upon  the  alert.  At  this  time, 
it  is  said,  there  are  always  a  great  many  Arabs  prowling 
about,  to  cut  off  pilgrims  straying  from  the  strong  mili¬ 
tary  escort  which  accompanies  them  from  Jerusalem, 
under  the  command  of  the  Pasha,  or  an  officer  of  high 
rank. 

We  have,  to-day,  according  to  ’Akil,  passed  through  the 
territory  of  the  Beni  Adwans  and  Beni  Sukr’s,  and  into 
those  of  the  wandering  tribes  of  the  lower  Ghor.  On 
the  opposite  side  is  “  the  valley  over  against  Beth-peor,” 
where  the  Israelites  dwelt  before  they  crossed  the  Jordan. 

In  the  descent  of  the  Jordan,  we  have,  at  every 
encampment,  determined  its  astronomical  position,  and 
its  relative  level  with  the  Mediterranean ;  and  have, 
throughout,  sketched  the  topography  of  the  river  and  the 
valley.  The  many  windings  of  the  river,  and  its  nu¬ 
merous  rapids,  will  account  for  the  difference  of  level 
between  lake  Tiberias  and  the  Dead  Sea. 

Tuesday,  April  18.  At  3  A.  M.,  we  were  aroused  by 
the  intelligence  that  the  pilgrims  were  coming.  Bising 
in  haste,  we  beheld  thousands  of  torchlights,  with  a  dark 
mass  beneath,  moving  rapidly  over  the  hills.  Striking 
our  tents  with  precipitation,  we  hurriedly  removed  them 
and  all  our  effects  a  short  distance  to  the  left.  We  had 
scarce  finished,  when  they  were  upon  us  : — men,  women, 
and  children,  mounted  on  camels,  horses,  mules,  and 
donkeys,  rushed  impetuously  by  toward  the  bank.  They 
presented  the  appearance  of  fugitives  from  a  routed  army. 

Our  Bedawin  friends  here  stood  us  in  good  stead ; — 
sticking  their  tufted  spears  before  our  tents,  they  mounted 
their  steeds  and  formed  a  military  cordon  round  us.  But 
for  them  we  should  have  been  run  down,  and  most  of  our 


A  HETEROGENEOUS  MULTITUDE.  261 

effects  trampled  upon,  scattered  and  lost.  Strange  that 
we  should  have  been  shielded  from  a  Christian  throng  by 
wild  children  of  the  desert  —  Muslims  in  name,  but 
pagans  in  reality.  Nothing  but  the  spears  and  swarthy 
faces  of  the  Arabs  saved  us. 

I  had,  in  the  mean  time,  sent  the  boats  to  the  opposite 
shore,  a  little  below  the  bathing-place,  as  well  to  be  out 
of  the  way  as  to  be  in  readiness  to  render  assistance, 
should  any  of  the  crowd  be  swept  down  by  the  current, 
and  in  danger  of  drowning. 

While  the  boats  were  taking  their  position,  one  of  the 
earlier  bathers  cried  out  that  it  was  a  sacred  place ;  but 
when  the  purpose  was  explained  to  him,  he  warmly 
thanked  us.  Moored  to  the  opposite  shore,  with  their 
crews  in  them,  they  presented  an  unusual  spectacle. 

The  party  which  had  disturbed  us  was  the  advanced 
guard  of  the  great  body  of  the  pilgrims.  At  5,  just  at 
the  dawn  of  day,  the  last  made  its  appearance,  coming 
over  the  crest  of  a  high  ridge,  in  one  tumultuous  and 
eager  throng. 

In  all  the  wild  haste  of  a  disorderly  rout,  Copts  and 
Russians,  Poles,  Armenians,  Greeks  and  Syrians,  from  all 
parts  of  Asia,  from  Europe,  from  Africa  and  from  far-dis¬ 
tant  America,  on  they  came ;  men,  women  and  children,  of 
every  age  and  hue,  and  in  every  variety  of  costume ;  talk¬ 
ing,  screaming,  shouting,  in  almost  every  known  language 
under  the  sun.  Mounted  as  variously  as  those  who  had 
preceded  them,  many  of  the  women  and  children  were 
suspended  in  baskets  or  confined  in  cages;  and,  with 
their  eyes  strained  towards  the  river,  heedless  of  all  inter¬ 
vening  obstacles,  they  hurried  eagerly  forward,  and  dis¬ 
mounting  in  haste,  and  disrobing  with  precipitation, 
rushed  down  the  bank  and  threw  themselves  into  the 
stream. 

They  seemed  to  be  absorbed  by  one  impulsive  feeling, 


262  BATHING  IN  JORDAN. 

and  perfectly  regardless  of  the  observations  of  others. 
Each  one  plunged  himself,  or  was  dipped  by  another,  three 
times,  below  the  surface,  in  honour  of  the  Trinity ;  and 
then  filled  a  bottle,  or  some  other  utensil,  from  the  river. 
The  bathing-dress  of  many  of  the  pilgrims  was  a  white 
gown  with  a  black  cross  upon  it.  Most  of  them,  as  soon 
as  they  dressed,  cut  branches  either  of  the  agnus  castus, 
or  willow ;  and,  dipping  them  in  the  consecrated  stream, 
bore  them  away  as  memorials  of  their  visit. 

In  an  hour,  they  began  to  disappear ;  and  in  less  than 
three  hours  the  trodden  surface  of  the  lately  crowded 
bank  reflected  no  human  shadow.  The  pageant  disap¬ 
peared  as  rapidly  as  it  had  approached,  and  left  to  us 
once  more  the  silence  and  the  solitude  of  the  wilderness. 
It  was  like  a  dream.  An  immense  crowd  of  human  be¬ 
ings,  said  to  be  8000,  but  I  thought  not  so  many,  had 
passed  and  repassed  before  our  tents  and  left  not  a  vestige 
behind  them. 

Every  one  bathed,  a  few  Franks  excepted ;  the  greater 
number,  in  a  quiet  and  reverential  manner ;  but  some,  I 
am  sorry  to  say,  displayed  an  ill-timed  levity. 

Besides  a  party  of  English,  a  lady  among  them,  and 
three  French  naval  officers,  we  were  gladdened  by  meet¬ 
ing  two  of  our  countrymen,  who  were  gratified  in  their 
turn  at  seeing  the  stars  and  stripes  floating  above  the  con¬ 
secrated  river,  and  the  boats  which  bore  them  ready  to 
rescue,  if  necessary,  a  drowning  pilgrim. 

We  were  in  the  land  of  Benjamin;  opposite  was  that 
of  Reuben,  which  was  in  the  country  of  the  Ammonites, 
and  on  the  plain  of  Moab. 

A  short  distance  from  us  was  Jericho,  the  wralls  of 
which  fell  at  the  sound  of  trumpets  ;  and  fourteen  miles 
on  the  other  side  was  “  Heshbon,  where  Sihon  the  king 
of  the  Amorites  dwelt.” 

Upon  this  bank  are  a  few  plane  trees  and  many  willow 


FIL GRIM S  BATHING  IN  THE  JORDAN. 


■ - 


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FRESH  PROVISIONS  NEEDED.  263 

and  tamarisk,  with  some  of  the  agnus  castus.  Within 
the  bank  and  about  the  plain  are  scattered  the  acacia,  the 
niibk  (spina  Christi),  and  the  mala  insana,  or  mad  apple. 
On  the  opposite  side  are  acacia,  tamarisk,  willow,  and  a 
thicket  of  canes  lower  down. 

The  pilgrims  descended  to  the  river  where  the  bank 
gradually  slopes.  Above  and  below  it  is  precipitous. 
The  banks  must  have  been  always  high  in  places,  and 
the  water  deep ;  or  the  axe-head  would  not  have  fallen 
into  the  water,  and  Elisha’s  miracle  been  unnecessary  to 
recover  it. 

Shortly  after  the  departure  of  the  pilgrims,  a  heavy 
cloud  settled  above  the  western  hills,  and  we  had  sharp 
lightning  and  loud  thunder,  followed  by  a  refreshing 
shower  of  rain. 

We  were  all  much  wearied,  and  in  consequence  of  liv¬ 
ing  upon  salt  food  since  we  left  Tiberias,  were  much  in 
need  of  refreshment.  Disappointed  in  procuring  fresh 
provisions  from  J ericho,  we  determined  to  proceed  at  once 
to  the  Dead  Sea,  only  a  few  hours  distant. 

Dr.  Anderson  volunteered  to  go  to  Jerusalem  to  super¬ 
intend  the  transportation  of  the  bread  I  had  sent  there ; 
and  I  gladly  accepted  his  services,  instructing  him  to 
make  a  geological  reconnoissance  of  his  route.  Before 
starting,  I  made  the  following  report  to  the  Secretary  of 
the  Navy: 

u MeshrcOa ,  on  the  Jordan ,  near  Jericho ,  ) 

April  18,  1848.) 

“  Sir  : — I  have  the  honour  to  report  our  safe  arrival  at 
this  place,  within  a  few  miles  of  the  Dead  Sea.  While  at 
Tiberias,  I  purchased  for  500  piastres  ($21.25),  a  frame 
boat  to  assist  in  conveying  our  things  and  save  expense 
of  transportation.  With  a  large  and  beautiful  lake  before 
them,  filled  with  fish  and  abounding  with  wild  fowl,  the 
misgoverned  and  listless  inhabitants  had  but  the  solitary 


264 


REPORT  TO  THE  DEPARTMENT. 


boat  I  purchased,  used  only  to  bring  wood  across  from  the 
opposite  side.  On  the  10th,  at  2  P.  M.,  we  started,  and, 
proceeding  to  the  foot  of  the  lake,  commenced  our  de¬ 
scent  of  the  Jordan.  Notwithstanding  the  most  diligent 
inquiry,  I  could  procure  no  information  to  be  relied  on, 
respecting  the  river,  in  Tiberias. 

“  To  my  consternation,  I  soon  found  that  the  J ordan 
was  interrupted  in  its  course  by  frequent  and  most  fearful 
rapids.  Determined,  however,  to  persevere,  I  was  cor¬ 
dially  supported  by  every  one  under  my  command.  We 
had  to  clear  out  old  channels,  to  make  new  ones,  and 
sometimes,  placing  our  sole  trust  in  Providence,  plunged 
with  headlong  velocity  down  appalling  descents.  So 
great  were  the  difficulties,  that  on  the  second  evening  we 
were  in  a  direct  line  but  twelve  miles  distant  from  Tibe¬ 
rias.  On  the  third  morning  I  was  obliged  to  abandon  the 
frame  boat  from  her  shattered  condition.  No  other  kind 
of  boats  in  the  world  than  such  as  we  have,  combining 
great  strength  with  buoyancy,  could  have  sustained  the 
shocks  they  encountered.  As  the  passage  by  the  river 
was  considered  the  most  perilous,  alike  from  the  dangers 
of  its  channel  and  the  liability  to  an  attack,  I  felt  it  my 
duty,  as  I  have  before  advised  you,  to  undertake  it  in 
person.  With  the  c  Fanny  Mason’  I  took  the  lead,  and 
Passed  Midshipman  Aulick  followed  in  the  6  Fanny  Skin¬ 
ner.’  This  young  officer  has  throughout  evinced  so  much 
coolness  and  discretion,  in  the  most  trying  situations,  as 
to  win  my  warmest  approbation,  and  I  soon  felt  sure  that 
I  had  one  behind  me  who  would  follow  whithersoever  I 
might  lead.  I  am  happy  to  say  that  the  boats,  although 
severely  bruised,  are  not  materially  injured,  and  in  a  few 
hours  hope  to  repair  all  damages. 

“  We  reached  here  last  night  after  dark,  having  made 
about  fifty  miles  since  sunrise ;  and  I  have  stopped  here, 
in  part,  for  the  purpose  mentioned  above,  and  partly  to 


REPORT  TO  THE  DEPARTMENT.  265 

rescue  any  of  the  pilgrims  who  might  be  in  danger  of 
drowning  —  accidents,  it  is  said,  occurring  every  year. 
This  morning,  before  daylight,  they  began  to  arrive,  and 
by  five  o’clock,  there  wrere  several  thousands  on  the  bank. 
The  boats  were  moored  on  the  opposite  side,  where  they 
were  out  of  the  way,  and  yet  convenient  to  render  assist¬ 
ance,  should  it  unfortunately  be  required.  I  am  happy 
to  say  that  nothing  occurred,  and  the  pilgrims  have  all 
departed. 

“  The  great  secret  of  the  depression  between  Lake 
Tiberias  and  the  Dead  Sea,  is  solved  by  the  tortuous 
course  of  the  Jordan.  In  a  space  of  sixty  miles  of  lati¬ 
tude  and  four  or  five  miles  of  longitude,  the  Jordan  tra¬ 
verses  at  least  200  miles.  The  river  is  in  the  latter 
stage  of  a  freshet — a  few  weeks  earlier  or  later,  and  pas¬ 
sage  would  have  been  impracticable.  As  it  is,  we  have 
plunged  down  twenty-seven  threatening  rapids,  besides  a 
great  many  of  lesser  magnitude. 

“As  soon  as  leisure  permits,  I  will  send  you  a  topogra¬ 
phical  sketch  of  the  river,  when  you  will  perceive  that  its 
course  is  more  sinuous  even  than  that  of  the  Mississippi. 

“Although  the  party  has  been  very  much  exposed, 
those  in  the  boats  especially,  from  being  constantly  wet, 
we  are  perfectly  well.  Until  I  hear  from  you  on  the  sub¬ 
ject,  however,  I  deem  it  my  duty  to  retain  Dr.  Anderson, 
whose  medical  or  surgical  assistance  may  at  any  moment 
be  required. 

“We  have  met  with  no  interruption  from  the  Arabs, 
although  we  were  twice  called  upon  to  stand  to  our  arms. 
Our  Bedawin  allies  have  proved  efficient  and  faithful. 

“  I  am,  very  respectfully,  &c., 

“  W.  F.  Lynch,  Lt.  U.  S.  N. 

“Hon.  J.  Y.  Mason, 

“  Secretary  of  the  Navy. 

23 


CHAPTER  XII. 


FROM  PILGRIM’S  FORD  TO  AIN  EL  FESHKAH. 

At  1.45,  started  with  the  boats,  the  caravan  making  a 
direct  line  for  Ain  el  Feshkah,  on  the  north-west  shore  of 
the  Dead  Sea,  the  appointed  place  of  rendezvous. 

The  course  of  the  river  was  at  first  S.  W.  In  about 
half  an  hour,  we  were  hailed  from  the  right  bank,  when 
we  stopped  and  took  in  sheikh  Helu,  of  the  tribe  Huteim, 
his  name  the  same  as  that  of  the  ford. 

From  1.50  to  1.57,  course  varying  from  N.  W.  to  S. 
S.  W.  Stopped  to  fill  the  India-rubber  water-bags,  having 
passed  a  small  island  thickly  wooded.  Weather  close 
and  sultry.  At  2.22,  started  again,  course  from  N.  N.  E. 
to  S.  by  W. ;  the  right  bank  red  clay,  twenty-five  feet 
high;  left  bank  low,  with  high  canes  and  willows.  2.25, 
a  quantity  of  drift-wood ;  and  2.36,  a  camel  in  the  river, 
washed  down  by  the  current  in  attempting  to  cross  the 
ford  last  night.  Weather  cloudy  at  intervals,  river  forty 
yards  wide,  twelve  feet  deep,  bottom  blue  mud.  The 
banks  alternating  high  and  low  —  highest  at  the  bends 
and  lowest  at  the  opposite  points. 

At  2.41,  passed  another  camel  in  the  river,  the  poor 
beast  leaning  exhausted  against  the  bank,  and  his  owner 
seated  despondingly  above  him.  We  could  not  help  him! 

From  2.42  to  2.54,  course  from  S.  to  S.  E.  and  back; 
many  pigeons  flying  about.  At  this  time,  there  was  a 
nauseous  smell  on  the  left  or  eastern  shore — traced  it  to  a 

small  stream  running  down  the  Wady  Ilesbon;  the  banks 

(266) 


approach  the  dead  sea.  267 

very  low,  and  covered  with  cane  and  tamarisk.  The  river 
here  fifty  yards  wide,  eleven  feet  deep,  muddy  bottom, 
current  four  knots.  2.59,  sand  and  clay  banks,  with  some 
pebbles  on  the  right ;  everything  indicating  the  vicinity 
of  the  Dead  Sea. 

At  3,  course  S.  E.  by  S.,  water  very  smooth,  discoloured 
hut  sweet.  Saw  a  heron,  a  bulbul,  and  a  snipe.  3.04,  a 
foetid  smell,  proceeding  from  a  small  stream  on  the  right 
or  western  shore.  At  3.07,  low  and  sedgy  banks,  high 
mountains  of  the  Dead  Sea  in  sight  to  the  southward  and 
westward;  saw  many  wild  ducks.  3.09,  both  banks,  about 
twelve  feet  high,  bore  marks  of  recent  overflow.  3.10,  a 
small  round  red  clay  hill  on  the  right,  bearing  S.  W.  by  S. 
3.11,  passed  a  bare  channel,  left  by  the  freshet.  3.12, 
course  south  a  long  stretch,  river  seventy  yards  wide,  left 
bank  very  low,  covered  with  tamarisk,  willow,  and  cane ; 
right  bank  fifteen  to  eighteen  feet  high,  red  clay,  with  weeds 
and  shrubs  —  the  mala  insana,  spina  Christi,  and  some  of 
the  agnus  castus — a  few  tamarisk  at  the  water’s  edge. 

At  3.13,  the  mountains  to  the  S.  E.  over  the  Dead  Sea 
presented  a  very  rugged,  iron-like  appearance.  Water  of 
the  river  sweet.  3.15,  the  left  bank  low,  running  out  to 
a  flat  cape.  Eight  bank  low  with  thick  canes,  some  of 
them  resembling  the  sugar-cane;  twenty  feet  back  the 
hank  twelve  feet  high,  red  clay.  3.16,  water  brackish, 
hut  no  unpleasant  smell ;  hanks  red  clay  and  mud,  gradu¬ 
ally  becoming  lower  and  lower ;  river  eighty  yards  wide, 
and  fast  increasing  in  breadth,  seven  feet  deep,  muddy 
bottom,  current  three  knots.  Saw  the  Dead  Sea  over  the 
fiat,  bearing  south  —  mountains  beyond.  The  surface  of 
the  water  became  ruffled.  3.22,  a  snipe  flew  by  —  fresh 
wind  from  north-west  —  one  large  and  two  small  islands 
at  the  mouth  of  the  river ;  the  islands  of  mud  six  to  eight 
feet  high,  evidently  subject  to  overflow;  started  a  heron 
and  a  white  gull. 


268 


ENTER  THE  DEAD  SEA. 


At  3.25,  passed  by  the  extreme  western  point,  where 
the  river  is  180  yards  wide  and  three  feet  deep,  and  en¬ 
tered  upon  the  Dead  Sea;  the  water,  a  nauseous  com¬ 
pound  of  bitters  and  salts. 

The  river,  where  it  enters  the  sea,  is  inclined  towards 
the  eastern  shore,  very  much  as  is  represented  on  the 
map  of  Messrs.  Robinson  and  Smith,  which  is  the  most 
exact  of  any  we  have  seen.  There  is  a  considerable 
bay  between  the  river  and  the  mountains  of  Belka,  in 
Ammon,  on  the  eastern  shore  of  the  sea. 

A  fresh  north-west  wind  was  blowing  as  we  rounded 
the  point.  We  endeavoured  to  steer  a  little  to  the  north 
of  west,  to  make  a  true  west  course,  and  threw  the  patent 
log  overboard  to  measure  the  distance  ;  but  the  wind  rose 
so  rapidly  that  the  boats  could  not  keep  head  to  wind, 
and  we  were  obliged  to  haul  the  log  in.  The  sea  con¬ 
tinued  to  rise  with  the  increasing  wind,  which  gradually 
freshened  to  a  gale,  and  presented  an  agitated  surface  of 
foaming  brine ;  the  spray,  evaporating  as  it  fell,  left 
incrustations  of  salt  upon  our  clothes,  our  hands  and 
faces ;  and  while  it  conveyed  a  prickly  sensation  wherever 
it  touched  the  skin,  was,  above  all,  exceedingly  painful  to 
the  eyes.  The  boats,  heavily  laden,  struggled  sluggishly 
at  first ;  but  when  the  wind  freshened  in  its  fierceness, 
from  the  density  of  the  water,  it  seemed  as  if  their  bows 
were  encountering  the  sledge-hammers  of  the  Titans, 
instead  of  the  opposing  waves  of  an  angry  sea. 

At  3.50,  passed  a  piece  of  drift-wood,  and  soon  after 
saw  three  swallows  and  a  gull.  At  4.55,  the  wind  blew 
so  fiercely  that  the  boats  could  make  no  headway ;  not 
even  the  Fanny  Skinner,  which  was  nearer  to  the  weather 
shore,  and  we  drifted  rapidly  to  leeward :  threw  over 
some  of  the  fresh  water,  to  lighten  the  Fanny  Mason, 
which  laboured  very  much,  and  I  began  to  fear  that  both 
boats  would  founder. 


ENCOUNTER  A  GALE. 


269 


At  5.40,  finding  that  we  were  losing  every  moment, 
and  that,  with  the  lapse  of  each  succeeding  one,  the 
danger  increased,  kept  away  for  the  northern  shore,  in 
the  hope  of  being  yet  able  to  reach  it ;  our  arms,  our 
clothes  and  skins  coated  with  a  greasy  salt ;  and  our  eyes, 
lips,  and  nostrils,  smarting  excessively.  How  different 
was  the  scene  before  the  submerging  of  the  plain,  which 
was  “  even  as  the  garden  of  the  Lord !” 

At  times  it  seemed  as  if  the  Dread  Almighty  frowned 
upon  our  efforts  to  navigate  a  sea,  the  creation  of  his 
wrath.  There  is  a  tradition  among  the  Arabs  that  no 
one  can  venture  upon  this  sea  and  live.  Repeatedly  the 
fates  of  Costigan  and  Molyneux  had  been  cited  to  deter 
us.  The  first  one  spent  a  few  days,  the  last  about 
twenty  hours,  and  returned  to  the  place  from  whence  he 
had  embarked,  without  landing  upon  its  shores.  One 
was  found  dying  upon  the  shore  5  the  other  expired  in 
November  last,  immediately  after  his  return,  of  fever  con¬ 
tracted  upon  its  waters. 

But,  although  the  sea  had  assumed  a  threatening 
aspect,  and  the  fretted  mountains,  sharp  and  incinerated, 
loomed  terrific  on  either  side,  and  salt  and  ashes  mingled 
with  its  sands,  and  foetid  sulphurous  springs  trickled  down 
its  ravines,  we  did  not  despair  :  awe-struck,  hut  not  terri¬ 
fied  ;  fearing  the  worst,  yet  hoping  for  the  best,  we  pre¬ 
pared  to  spend  a  dreary  night  upon  the  dreariest  waste 
we  had  ever  seen. 

At  5.58,  the  wind  instantaneously  abated,  and  with  it 
the  sea  as  rapidly  fell;  the  water,  from  its  ponderous 
quality,  settling  as  soon  as  the  agitating  cause  had  ceased 
to  act.  Within  twenty  minutes  from  the  time  we  bore 
away  from  a  sea  which  threatened  to  engulf  us,  we  were 
pmlling  away,  at  a  rapid  rate,  over  a  placid  sheet  of  water, 
that  scarcely  rippled  beneath  us ;  and  a  rain-cloud,  which 
23  * 


270 


ASPECT  OF  THE  SHORES. 


had  enveloped  the  sterile  mountains  of  the  Arabian  shore, 
lifted  up,  and  left  their  rugged  outlines  basking  in  the 
light  of  the  setting  sun.  At  6.10,  a  flock  of  gulls  flew 
over,  while  we  were  passing  a  small  island  of  mud,  a 
pistol-shot  distant  from  the  northern  shore,  and  half  a 
mile  west  of  the  river’s  mouth.  At  6.20,  a  light  wind 
sprung  up  from  S.  E.,  and  huge  clouds  drifted  over,  their 
western  edges  gorgeous  with  light,  while  the  great  masses 
were  dark  and  threatening.  The  sun  went  down,  leaving 
beautiful  islands  of  rose-coloured  clouds  over  the  coast  of 
J udea ;  but  above  the  yet  more  sterile  mountains  of  Moab, 
all  was  gloomy  and  obscure. 

The  northern  shore  is  an  extensive  mud-flat,  with  a 
sandy  plain  beyond,  and  is  the  very  type  of  desolation ; 
branches  and  trunks  of  trees  lay  scattered  in  every  direc¬ 
tion  ;  some  charred  and  blackened  as  by  fire ;  others 
white  with  an  incrustation  of  salt.  These  were  collected 
at  high-water  mark,  designating  the  line  which  the  water 
had  reached  prior  to  our  arrival.  On  the  deep  sands  of 
this  shore  was  laid  the  scene  of  the  combat  between  the 
knight  of  the  leopard  and  Ilderim,  the  Saracen.  The 
north-western  shore  is  an  unmixed  bed  of  gravel,  coming 
in  a  gradual  slope  from  the  mountains  to  the  sea.  The 
eastern  coast  is  a  rugged  line  of  mountains,  bare  of  all 
vegetation, — a  continuation  of  the  Hauran  range,  coming 
from  the  north,  and  extending  south  beyond  the  scope  of 
vision,  throwing  out  three  marked  and  seemingly  equi¬ 
distant  promontories  from  its  south-eastern  extremity. 

At  6.25,  passed  a  gravelly  point,  with  many  large 
stones  upon  it.  It  is  a  peninsula,  connected  with  the 
main  by  a  low,  narrow  isthmus.  When  the  latter  is 
overflowed,  the  peninsula  must  present  the  appearance 
of  an  island,  and  is  doubtless  the  one  to  which  Stephens, 
Warburton,  and  Dr.  Wilson,  allude. 

We  were,  for  some  time,  apprehensive  of  missing  the 


NIGHT  UPON  THE  DEAD  SEA.  271 

place  of  rendezvous;  for  the  Sheikh  of  Huteim,  never 
having  been  afloat  before,  and  scarce  recovered  from  his 
fright  during  the  gale,  was  bewildered  in  his  mind,  and 
perfectly  useless  as  a  guide.  The  moon  had  not  risen ; 
and  in  the  starlight,  obscured  by  the  shadow  of  the 
mountains,  we  pulled  along  the  shore  in  some  anxiety. 
At  one  moment  we  saw  the  gleam  of  a  fire  upon  the 
beach,  to  the  southward ;  and,  firing  a  gun,  made  for  it 
with  all  expedition.  In  a  short  time  it  disappeared ;  and 
while  resting  on  the  oars,  waiting  for  some  signal  to  direct 
us,  there  were  the  flashes  and  reports  of  guns  and  sounds 
of  voices  upon  the  cliffs,  followed  by  other  flashes  and 
reports  far  back  upon  the  shore  which  we  had  passed. 
Divided  between  apprehensions  of  an  attack  upon  our 
friends  and  a  stratagem  for  ourselves,  we  were  uncertain 
where  to  land.  Determined,  however,  to  ascertain,  we 
closed  in  with  the  shore,  and  pulled  along  the  beach, 
sounding  as  we  proceeded. 

A  little  before  8  P.  M.,  we  came  up  with  our  friends, 
who  had  stopped  at  Ain  el  Feshka,  fountain  of  the  stride. 

The  shouts  and  signals  we  had  heard  had  been  from 
the  scouts  and  caravan,  which  had  been  separated  from 
each  other,  making  mutual  signals  of  recognition ;  they 
had  likewise  responded  to  ours,  which,  coming  from  two 
points  some  distance  apart,  for  a  time  disconcerted  us. 
It  was  a  wild  scene  upon  an  unknown  and  desolate  coast : 
the  mysterious  sea,  the  shadowy  mountains,  the  human 
voices  among  the  cliffs,  the  vivid  flashes  and  the  loud 
reports  reverberating  along  the  shore 

Unable  to  land  near  the  fountain,  we  were  compelled 
to  haul  the  boats  upon  the  beach,  about  a  mile  below ; 
and,  placing  some  Arabs  to  guard  them,  took  the  men  to 
the  camp,  pitched  in  a  cane-brake,  beside  a  brackish 
spring,  where,  from  necessity,  we  made  a  frugal  supper ; 
and  then,  wet  and  weary,  threw  ourselves  upon  a  bed  of 


272 


ANCIENT  CAVERNS. 


dust,  beside  a  foetid  marsh ; — the  dark,  fretted  mountains 
behind — the  sea,  like  a  huge  cauldron,  before  us — its  sur¬ 
face  shrouded  in  a  lead-coloured  mist. 

Towards  midnight,  while  the  moon  was  rising  above 
the  eastern  mountains,  and  the  shadows  of  the  clouds 
were  reflected  wild  and  fantastically  upon  the  surface  of 
the  sombre  sea ;  and  everything,  the  mountains,  the  sea, 
the  clouds,  seemed  spectre-like  and  unnatural,  the  sound 
of  the  convent-bell  of  Mar  Saba  struck  gratefully  upon 
the  ear ;  for  it  was  the  Christian  call  to  prayer,  and  told 
of  human  wants  and  human  sympathies  to  the  wayfarers 
on  the  borders  of  the  Sea  of  Death. 

The  shore  party  stated  that,  after  leaving  the  green 
banks  of  the  Jordan,  they  passed  over  a  sandy  tract  of 
damp  ravines,  where  it  was  difficult  for  the  camels  to 
march  without  slipping.  Ascending  a  slight  elevation, 
they  traversed  a  plain  encrusted  with  salt,  and  sparsely 
covered  with  sour  and  saline  bushes,  some  dead  and 
withered,  and  snapping  at  the  slightest  touch  given 
them  in  passing.  They  noticed  many  cavernous  excava¬ 
tions  in  the  liill-sides, — the  dwelling-places  of  the  Israel¬ 
ites,  of  early  Christians,  and  of  hermits  during  the  time 
of  the  Crusades.*  They  at  length  reached  a  sloping, 
dark-brown  sand,  forming  the  beach  of  the  Dead  Sea,  and 
followed  it  to  El  Feshkha.  Our  Arabs  feared  wild  beasts, 
but  there  is  nothing  for  one  to  live  on,  in  these  unte¬ 
nanted  solitudes.  The  frogs  alone  bore  vocal  testimony 
of  their  existence. 

In  descending  the  Ghor,  Mr.  Dale  sketched  the  topo¬ 
graphy  of  the  country,  and  took  compass  bearings  as  he 
proceeded.  The  route  of  the  caravan  was  on  the  bank 
of  the  upper  terrace,  on  the  west  side,  every  day,  except 

*  a  And  because  of  the  Midianites,  the  children  of  Israel  made  them  the 
dens  which  are  in  the  mountains,  and  caves,  and  strongholds.” — Judges, 
xi.  2. 


/ 


FOUNTAIN  OF  THE  STRIDE.  273 

one,  when  it  travelled  on  the  eastern  side.  That  ele¬ 
vated  plain  was  at  first  covered  with  fields  of  grain,  but 
became  more  barren  as  they  journeyed  south.  The  ter¬ 
race  was  strongly  marked,  particularly  in  the  southern 
portion,  where  there  was  a  continuous  range  of  perpen¬ 
dicular  cliffs  of  limestone  and  conglomerate.  This  terrace 
averaged  about  500  feet  above  the  flat  of  the  Jordan,  the 
latter  mostly  covered  with  trees  and  grass.  They  were 
each  day  compelled  to  descend  to  the  lower  plain,  to  meet 
the  boats. 

Wednesday,  April  19.  I  was  first  recalled  to  conscious¬ 
ness  this  morning  by  rays  of  light,  the  pencilled  mes¬ 
sengers  of  the  early  dawn,  shooting  above  the  dark  and 
fretted  mountains  which  form  the  eastern  boundary  of 
the  sea.  This  day  I  had  assigned  to  rest  and  preparation 
for  future  work,  and  intended  to  let  all  hands  sleep  late, 
after  the  great  fatigue  of  yesterday ;  but,  soon  after  day¬ 
break,  we  were  startled  with  the  intelligence  that  the 
boats  were  nearly  filled  with  water.  The  wind  had  risen 
towards  morning,  and  a  heavy  sea  was  tumbling  in.  We 
hastened  to  the  beach  to  secure  the  boats,  and  dry  our 
effects.  With  all  our  discomfort,  we  had  slept  better  than 
usual,  having  been  undisturbed  by  fleas.  The  wind  was 
fresh  from  the  south,  and  the  brawling  sound  of  the 
breakers  was  reverberated  from  the  perpendicular  face  of 
the  mountains.  We  were  encamped  just  above  the  spring, 
in  a  clearing  made  in  the  cane-break,  under  a  cliff  upwards 
of  a  thousand  feet  high — old  crumbling  limestone  and  con¬ 
glomerate  of  a  dull  ochre  colour. 

The  fountain  is  a  shallow  and  clear  stream  of  water,  at 
the  temperature  of  84°,  which  flows  from  a  cane-break, 
near  the  base  of  the  mountain.  It  is  soft  yet  brackish, 
and  there  is  no  deposit  of  silicious  or  cretaceous  matter, 
but  it  has  a  strong  smell  of  sulphur.  We  had  no  means 
of  analyzing  it.  A  short  distance  from  its  source,  it 

s 


274  BIRDS  UPON  THE  SHORE. 

spreads  over  a  considerable  space,  and  its  diagonal  course 
to  the  sea  is  marked  by  a  more  vivid  line  of  vegetation 
than  that  which  surrounds  it.  Between  the  cane-break 
and  the  sea  is  the  beach,  covered  with  minute  fragments 
of  flint.  In  the  water  of  the  sea,  near  the  shore,  are 
standing  many  dead  trees,  about  two  inches  in  diameter. 
We  could  neither  find  nor  hear  of  the  ruins  mentioned 
by  Dr.  Robinson,  and  looked  in  vain  for  sulphur.  The 
pebbles  of  bituminous  limestone  of  which  he  speaks,  are 
in  great  abundance. 

Our  Arabs  finding  it  impossible  to  sustain  their  horses 
on  the  salt  and  acrid  vegetation  of  this  place,  and  Ain 
Jidy  being  represented  as  no  better,  I  discharged  them 
and  the  camel-drivers,  and  applied  to  the  Pasha  at  Jeru¬ 
salem  for  a  few  soldiers,  to  guard  the  depot  I  intended 
forming  at  Ain  Jidy,  while  we  should  be  exploring  the 
sea  and  its  shores. 

’Aldl  and  his  followers  were  to  leave  us  here,  but  Sherif, 
with  his  servant,  would  remain.  Sent  Sherif  to  Jeru¬ 
salem,  to  assist  in  superintending  the  transportation  of 
stores,  and  to  make  arrangements  for  supplies  of  provi¬ 
sions  from  Hebron.  Sent  with  him  everything  we  could 
dispense  with  —  saddles,  bridles,  holsters,  and  all  but  a 
few  articles  of  clothing. 

At  1  P.  M.,  made  an  excursion  along  the  base  of  the 
mountain,  towards  Ras  es  Feshkhah  (cape  of  the  stride), 
and  gathered  some  specimens  of  conglomerate  and  some 
fresh-water  shells  in  the  bed  of  the  stream.  We  were  struck 
with  the  almost  total  absence  of  round  stones  and  pebbles 
upon  the  beach — the  shore  is  covered  with  small  angular 
fragments  of  flint.  Started  two  partridges  of  a  beautiful 
stone-colour,  so  much  like  the  rocks,  that  they  could 
only  be  distinguished  when  in  motion.  Heard  the  notes 
of  a  solitary  bird  in  the  cane-brake,  which  we  could  not 
identify.  The  statement  that  nothing  can  live  upon  the 


UNRELIEVED  DESOLATION.  275 

shores  of  the  sea,  is,  therefore,  disproved.  The  home 
and  the  usual  haunt  of  the  partridge  may  be  among  the 
cliffs  above,  but  the  smaller  bird  we  heard  must  have  its 
nest  in  the  thicket. 

But  the  scene  was  one  of  unmixed  desolation.  The 
air,  tainted  with  the  sulphuretted  hydrogen  of  the  stream, 
gave  a  tawny  hue  even  to  the  foliage  of  the  cane,  which 
is  elsewhere  of  so  light  a  green.  Except  the  cane- 
brakes,  clustering  along  the  marshy  stream  which  dis¬ 
figured,  while  it  sustained  them,  there  was  no  vegetation 
whatever;  barren  mountains,  fragments  of  rocks,  black¬ 
ened  by  sulphureous  deposit,  and  an  unnatural  sea,  with 
low,  dead  trees  upon  its  margin,  all  within  the  scope  of 
vision,  bore  a  sad  and  sombre  aspect.  We  had,  never 
before  beheld  such  desolate  hills,  such  calcined  barrenness. 
The  most  arid  desert  has  its  touch  of  genial  nature  : 

u  But  here,  above,  around,  below, 

In  mountain  or  in  glen, 

Nor  tree,  nor  plant,  nor  shrub,  nor  flower, 

Nor  aught  of  vegetative  power, 

The  wearied  eye  may  ken; 

But  all  its  rocks  at  random  thrown, 

Black  waves,  bare  crags,  and  banks  of  stone.” 

There  was  an  unpleasant  sulphureous  smell  in  the  air, 
which  we  attributed  to  the  impregnated  waters  of  the 
fountain  and  marsh. 

’Akil,  to  whom  we  were  all  much  attached,  came  to 
see  us  prior  to  his  departure.  To  our  surprise  and  great 
delight,  we  learned,  in  the  course  of  conversation,  that  he 
was  well  acquainted  and  on  friendly  terms  with  some  of 
the  tribes  on  the  eastern  shore.  I  therefore  prevailed 
upon  him  to  proceed  there  by  land ;  apprise  the  tribes  of 
our  coming,  and  make  arrangements  to  supply  us  with 
provisions.  In  ten  days  he  was  to  be  in  Kerak,  and  have 
a  look-out  for  us  stationed  upon  the  eastern  shore  near 
the  peninsula.  It  was  a  most  gratifying  arrangement,  fou 


276  THE  WORD  OF  OUR  ARAB. 

we  might  now  hope  to  avoid  difficulty  where  it  had  been 
most  anticipated,  and  to  visit  the  country  of  Moab,  so 
little  known  to  the  world. 

Sometime  after  the  agreement  was  made,  ’Akll  returned 
and  expressed  a  wish  to  be  released.  I  ascertained  that 
some  of  his  timid  followers  had  been  dissuading  him,  and 
held  him  to  his  obligation.  He  is  a  high-toned  savage. 
At  our  former  meeting  I  advanced  him  money  for  his  ex¬ 
penses  and  the  purchase  of  provisions,  for  which  he 
refused  to  give  a  receipt  or  append  his  seal  (an  Arab  never 
subscribes  his  name,  even  when  he  can  write)  to  the 
contract.  I  had,  therefore,  nothing  but  his  word  to  rely 
upon,  which  I  well  knew  he  would  never  break.  u  The 
bar  of  iron  may  be  broken,  but  the  word  of  an  honest 
man  never,”  and  there  is  as  much  honour  beneath  the 
yellow  skin  of  this  untutored  Arab,  as  ever  swelled  the 
breast  of  the  chivalrous  Coeur  de  Lion.  He  never  dreamed 
of  falsehood. 

During  the  early  part  of  the  day  the  weather  was  plea¬ 
sant,  with  passing  clouds ;  but  when  unobscured  the  sun 
was  warm.  Towards  the  afternoon  the  wind  subsided, 
and  the  calm  sea,  when  the  sun  shone  upon  it,  verified 
the  resemblance  which  it  has  been  said  to  bear  to  molten 
lead.  In  the  forenoon  it  had  looked  as  yesterday,  like  a 
sheet  of  foam. 

The  night  was  clear,  a  thin  mist  hung  over  the  southern 
shore,  and  the  moon  was  nearly  at  the  full.  Near  us, 
when  all  was  still,  the  sea  had  the  exact  hue  of  absinthe, 
or  that  peculiar  blue  of  the  grotto  of  “  Azzura,”  described 
in  the  “  Improvisatore.”  Until  2  A.  M.  the  night  was 
serene  and  lovely.  Although  the  earth  was  fine  and 
penetrating  as  ashes,  and  the  miasma  from  the  marsh 
anything  but  agreeable,  there  were  no  / leas ,  and  the  bites 
which  had  so  smarted  from  the  spray  yesterday,  are  now 
healing  up. 


SHORE  OE  THE  DEAD 


. 


. 

. 

> 


. 

V 


■*.  & 

*  “■  *•*  - 


AN  ARAB  MESS 


277 


To-night  our  Bedawin  had  a  farewell  feast,  character¬ 
istic  alike  of  their  habitual  waste  and  want  of  cleanliness. 
A  huge  kettle,  partly  filled  with  water,  was  laid  on  a  fire 
made  of  wood  gathered  on  the  beach  and  strongly  impreg¬ 
nated  with  salt;  when  the  water  boiled,  a  quantity  of 
flour  was  thrown  in  and  stirred  with  a  branch  of  drift¬ 
wood,  seven  feet  long,  and  nine  inches  in  circumference. 
When  the  mixture  was  about  the  consistence  of  paste,  the 
vessel  was  taken  from  the  fire  and  a  skin  of  rancid  butter, 
about  six  pounds,  in  a  fluid  state,  was  poured  in;  the 
mixture  was  again  stirred,  and  the  Bedawin  seated  round 
it  scooped  out  the  dirty,  greasy  compound,  with  the  hollow 
of  their  hands — ’Akil  not  the  least  voracious  among  them. 
He  is  a  genuine  barbarian,  and  never  sleeps  even  beneath 
the  frail  covering  of  a  tent.  In  his  green  aba,  which  he 
has  constantly  worn  since  he  joined  us,  he  is  ever  to  be 
found  at  night,  slumbering,  not  sleeping,  near  the  watch- 
fire — his  yataghan  by  his  side — his  heavy  mounted,  wide¬ 
mouthed  pistols  beneath  his  head.  Before  retiring,  the 
Arabs  took  an  impressive  leave  of  us ;  for  it  was  evident 
that  they  anticipated  encountering  some  peril  in  their 
route  along  the  eastern  shore. 

The  Arab  bard  sang  nearly  the  whole  night.  Stopping 
a  little  after  midnight,  he  commenced  again  in  less  than 
an  hour,  and  at  2  A.  M.  was  giving  forth  his  nasal  notes 
and  his  twanging  sounds  in  most  provoking  monotony ; 
the  discordant  croaking  of  the  frog  is  music  in  compari¬ 
son.  An  occasional  scream  or  yell  would  be  absolute 
relief. 

At  midnight,  again  heard  the  bell  of  the  convent  of 
Mar  Saba.  It  was  a  solace  to  know  that,  in  a  place  wild 
and  solitary  in  itself,  yet  not  remote  from  us,  there  were 
fellow  Christians  raising  their  voices  in  supplication  to 
the  Great  and  Good  Being,  before  whom,  in  different  forms, 
but  with  undivided  faith,  we  bow  ourselves  in  worship. 
24 


278 


ARABS  AT  PRAYER. 


Thursday,  April  20.  Awakened  very  early  by  one  of 
the  Arabs,  more  pious  or  more  hypocritical  than  the  rest, 
constituting  himself  a  Mueddin,*  and  calling  the  rest  to 
prayer.  But  the  summons  was  obeyed  by  very  few.  An 
Arab,  when  he  prays,  throws  his  mat  anywhere,  gene¬ 
rally,  in  obedience  to  the  injunctions  of  the  Koran,  in  the 
most  conspicuous  place.  He  puts  off  his  shoes ;  stands 
upright;  leans  forward  until  his  hands  rest  upon  his 
knees ;  bends  yet  farther  in  prostration,  and  touches  the 
earth  with  his  forehead :  he  then  rises  erect,  recites  a 
sentence  from  the  Koran,  and  goes  through  with  similar 
genuflections  and  prostrations.  In  the  intervals  of  the 
prostrations,  he  sits  back,  his  knees  to  the  ground,  and 
his  feet  under  him,  and  recites  long  passages  from  the 
Koran.  Sometimes  they  are  abstracted,  but  not  always ; 
we  have  seen  them,  in  the  intervals  between  the  prostra¬ 
tions,  comb  their  beards  and  address  others  in  conversa¬ 
tion,  and  afterwards,  with  great  gravity,  renew  their 
orisons. 

The  most  extraordinary  thing  is,  that  some  of  the 
Turkish  soldiers  we  have  seen,  who  were  seemingly  pious 
and  really  fanatical,  did  not  understand  one  word  of  the 
Arabic  passages  of  the  Koran  they  recited  with  so  much 
apparent  devotion. 

Except  those  who  accompanied  us  from  Acre,  we  have 
not  seen  a  single  Muslim  with  beads  : — there,  as  well  as 
at  Beirut,  Smyrna  and  Constantinople,  every  one  we  met, 
from  the  Pasha  down,  had  them  in  his  hands,  apparently 
as  playthings  only. 

The  morning  was  pleasant;  a  light  breeze  from  the 
southward;  temperature  of  the  air,  82°.  After  taking 
double  altitudes,  sent  Mr.  Dale  and  Mr.  Aulick  in  the 
boats  to  sound  diagonally  and  directly  across  to  the 


*In  Turkish,  Muezzin. 


MORE  BIRDS. 


279 


eastern  shore.  They  started  at  10.30;  the  wind  had  died 
away ;  the  sea  was  as  smooth  as  a  mirror  towards  either 
shore,  but  slightly  ruffled  in  the  middle,  where  there 
seemed  to  be  a  current  setting  to  the  southward.  Ther¬ 
mometer,  89°  in  the  tent,  our  only  shelter,  for  the  sun 
shone  fiercely  into  every  crevice  of  the  mountain  behind 
us.  Employed  in  making  arrangements  for  the  removal 
of  the  camp  farther  south  to-morrow. 

P.  M.  A  short  distance  from  the  camp,  saw  a  large 
brown  or  stone-coloured  hare,  and  started  a  partridge ; 
heard  another  in  the  cliffs  above,  and  a  small  bird  twit¬ 
tering  in  the  cane-brake  beneath  me.  We  discovered  that 
these  shores  can  furnish  food  for  beasts  of  prey.  Found 
some  of  the  sea-side  brache,  supposed  to  be  alluded  to  in 
Job,  and  translated  mallows  in  the  English  version.  Also 
the  sida  Asiatica. 

At  5  P.  M.,  temperature  80° ;  as  the  day  declined,  the 
wind  sprang  up  and  blew  freshly  from  the  north,  and  I 
began  to  feel  apprehensive  for  the  boats.  Towards  sun¬ 
set,  walked  along  the  base  of  the  mountains  to  the  south¬ 
ward  to  look  for,  but  could  see  nothing  of  them.  Started 
a  snipe,  and  saw,  but  could  not  catch,  a  beautiful  butter¬ 
fly,  chequered  white  and  brown.  To-day  a  duck  was  seen 
upon  the  water,  about  a  mile  from  the  shore  ; — his  home, 
doubtless,  among  the  sedges  of  the  brackish  stream. 

Soon  after  sunset,  some  Arabs  of  the  tribe  Rashayideh 
came  into  camp,  and  proffered  their  services  as  guides 
along  the  western  coast,  and  guards  to  our  effects  while 
absent  in  the  boats.  They  were  the  most  meagre,  forlorn, 
and  ragged  creatures  I  had  ever  seen.  The  habiliments 
of  Falstaff’s  recruits  would  have  been  a  court  costume 
compared  to  the  attire  of  these  attenuated  wretches, 
whose  swarthy  skins,  in  all  directions,  peered  forth 
through  the  filthy  rags,  which  hung  in  shreds  and  patches, 
rather  betraying  than  concealing  their  nudity. 


280  SOUNDINGS  OF  THE  DEAD  SEA. 

Some  of  them  would  have  answered  as  guides ;  but  it 
would  not  do  to  employ  them  in  any  other  capacity. 
Their  abject  poverty  would  tempt  them  to  steal,  and  their 
physical  weakness  prevent  them,  even  if  they  were  cou¬ 
rageous,  from  defending  our  property.  Since  the  battle 
of  Cressy,  history  does  not  tell  of  lean  and  hungry  men 
having  ever  proved  valiant. 

As  night  closed  in,  we  lighted  fires  along  the  beach  and 
around  the  camp  as  guiding  signals  to  the  boats. 

At  8  P.  M.,  went  down  to  the  beach  and  looked  long 
and  anxiously  but  could  see  nothing  of  them,  although  a 
dark  object  could  have  been  discerned  at  a  great  distance, 
for  the  surface  of  the  sea  was  one  wide  sheet  of  phospho¬ 
rescent  foam,  and  the  waves,  as  they  broke  upon  the 
shore,  threw  a  sepulchral  light  upon  the  dead  bushes  and 
scattered  fragments  of  rock.  Returned  to  the  camp  and 
placed  every  one  on  guard,  for  all  our  men  but  one  being 
absent  in  the  boats,  our  weakness,  if  coupled  with  want 
of  vigilance,  might  invite  an  attack  from  the  strange 
Arabs,  who,  we  knew,  were  upon  the  cliffs  above. 

At  9.30,  the  Fanny  Mason,  and  at  10.45,  the  Fanny 
Skinner,  returned.  They  had  been  retarded  by  the  fresh 
wind  and  corresponding  heavy  swell  of  the  sea.  The 
distance  in  a  straight  line  from  this  to  the  Arabian  shore 
measured  seven  nautical,  or  nearly  eight  statute  miles. 
The  soundings  directly  across  from  this  place  gave  116 
fathoms,  or  696  feet,  as  the  greatest  depth — ninety 
fathoms,  540  feet,  within  a  fourth  of  a  mile  from  the  Ara¬ 
bian  shore.  Mr.  Aulick  reports  a  volcanic  formation  on 
the  east  shore,  and  brought  specimens  of  lava.  Another 
line  of  soundings  running  diagonally  across  to  the  S.  E. 
Mr.  Dale  reports  a  level  plain  at  the  bottom  of  the  sea, 
extending  nearly  to  each  shore,  with  an  average  depth 
of  170  fathoms,  1020  feet,  all  across.  The  bottom,  blue 
mud  and  sand,  and  a  number  of  rectangular  crystals  of 


GROUP  OF  RAGGED  ARABS. 


281 


salt,  some  of  them  perfect  cubes.  One  cast  brought  up 
crystals  only.  Laid  them  by  for  careful  preservation. 

The  diagonal  line  of  soundings  was  run  from  this  place 
to  a  black  chasm  in  the  opposite  mountains.  The  sound¬ 
ings  deepened  gradually  to  twenty-eight  fathoms  a  short 
distance  from  the  shore;  the  next  cast  was  137,  and  the 
third  170  fathoms,  and  the  lead  brought  up,  as  mentioned, 
clear  cubical  crystals  of  salt.  The  casts  were  taken  about 
every  half  mile,  and  the  deep  soundings  were  carried 
close  to  the  Arabian  shore.  It  was  a  tedious  operation ; 
the  sun  shone  with  midsummer  fierceness,  and  the  water, 
greasy  to  the  touch,  made  the  men’s  hands  smart  and 
burn  severely. 

In  the  chasm  they  found  a  sweet  and  thermal  stream, 
coming  from  above  and  emptying  into  the  sea.  It  is, 
doubtless,  the  “  Zerka  Main,”  the  outlet  of  the  hot  springs 
of  Callirohoe.  We  trust  to  give  it  a  thorough  exami¬ 
nation. 

By  dark  the  sea  had  rolled  up  dangerously,  and  the 
boats  took  in  much  water,  the  crests  of  the  waves  curling 
over  their  sides.  It  was  a  dreadful  pull  for  the  men,  and 
when  they  arrived  their  clothes  were  stiffened  with  in¬ 
crustation. 

The  Rashayideh  were  grouped  in  a  circle  a  short  dis¬ 
tance  from  our  tents.  In  their  ragged  brown  abas,  lying 
motionless,  and  apparently  in  profound  slumber,  they 
looked  by  moonlight  like  so  many  fragments  of  rock,  and 
reminded  one  of  the  grey  geese  around  the  hut  of  Cannie 
Elshie,  the  recluse  of  Mucklestane  Muir.  They  were  not 
all  asleep,  however,  for  when  I  approached,  one  instantly 
arose  and  greeted  me.  Retired  to  rest  at  1  A.  M.,  the 
sea  brawling  and  breaking  upon  the  shore. 


i 


24* 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


PROM  AIN  EL  FESHKHAH  TO  AIN  JIDY  (ENGADDI). 

Friday,  April  21.  Allowed  all  hands  to  sleep  late  this 
morning,  in  consequence  of  the  great  fatigue  of  yesterday. 
The  sun  rose  at  5.29,  a  light  wind  from  the  westward. 

A.  M.,  busied  in  preparation  for  moving  to  the  south¬ 
ward.  The  sea  was  smooth  and  weather  clear,  and  after 
sunrise  it  became  quite  warm.  Lofty  arid  mountains  on 
both  sides ;  a  low  flat  shore  to  the  northward  and  to  the 
southward ;  the  south-eastern  and  the  south-western 
shores  converging,  with  only  water  visible  between  them. 
In  that  direction,  a  light  veil  of  mist  was  drawn  above 
the  sea. 

At  11,  broke  up  camp,  and  commenced  moving  every 
thing  to  the  boats,  excepting  a  load  for  the  only  remain¬ 
ing  camel,  to  be  conveyed  along  the  shore.  The  Rasha- 
yideh  were  very  active  in  the  labour  of  transportation 
from  the  camp  to  the  boats.  Their  astonishing  brevity 
of  shirt,  and  lack  of  all  other  covering,  save  a  dirty  and 
faded  koofeeyeh,  rendered  them  peculiarly  interesting  to 
the  anatomist.  Several  of  them  wore  sandals,  a  rude 
invention  to  protect  the  feet.  It  was  a  thick  piece  of 
hide,  confined  by  a  thong  passing  under  the  sole,  at  the 
hollow  of  the  foot,  around  the  heel,  and  between  the 
great  toe  and  the  one  which  adjoins  it. 

Our  baggage  seemed  too  heavy  for  the  boats,  but  it  was 
necessary  to  make  the  attempt  to  get  away.  Our  Jordan 
water  was  nearly  expended,  and  that  of  the  fountain  was 

not  only  exceedingly  unpalatable,  but  I  feared  unwhole- 

(282) 


THE  BROOK  KIDRON.  283 

some  also.  If  it  came  on  to  blow,  we  would  have  to 
beach  the  boats  to  save  them. 

At  11.42,  started;  alight  breeze  from  the  southward 
and  westward ;  the  sea  slightly  ruffled.  Steered  S.  i  E., 
along  the  shore  by  Has  el  Feshkhah.  The  ras  (cape) 
about  200  yards  distant  from  the  shore ;  between  it  and 
our  late  camping-place  is  a  low,  narrow  plain,  skirted  with 
cane.  The  precipitous  limestone  mountain  towering  a 
thousand  feet  above  it. 

At  1.15  P.  M.,  passed  Wady  Mahras,  or  Ravine  of  the 
Guard.  It  was  dry,  with  a  solitary  ghurrah-tree  at  its 
mouth,  larger  than  any  we  had  seen  upon  these  shores. 
It  was  about  the  size  of  a  half-grown  apple-tree. 

Half  a  mile  beyond  is  the  Wady  en  Nar  (Ravine  of  Fire), 
which  is  the  bed  of  the  brook  Kidron.  The  head  of  that 
ravine  is  the  valley  of  Jehoshaphat,  under  the  eastern  wall 
of  Jerusalem.  Midway  down  the  ravine,  the  convent  of 
Mar  Saba  is  situated.  Between  the  outlets  of  the  two 
ravines  of  Mahras  and  En  Nar,  the  debris  of  the  moun¬ 
tains  has  formed  a  plain,  or  delta,  sloping  to  the  south¬ 
east,  and  rounding  again  to  the  southward. 

At  1.36,  stopped  to  examine  where  the  Kidron  empties 
into  the  sea,  in  the  rainy  season.  The  bed,  much  worn 
and  filled  with  confused  fragments  of  rock,  was  perfectly 
dry.  It  is  a  deep  gorge,  narrow  at  the  base,  and  yawning 
wide  at  the  summit,  which  was  1200  feet  above  us. 

The  peak  of  Mukulla,  immediately  north  of  this  ravine, 
was  the  loftiest  of  the  range  we  had  thus  far  seen  on  the 
Judean  shore;  and  presented,  even  more  than  the  rest, 
the  appearance  of  having  been  scathed  by  fire.  Its  sum¬ 
mit  is  less  sharp  and  more  rounded,  and  the  rapid  disin¬ 
tegration  of  its  face  towards  the  sea  has  formed  a  sloping 
hill  of  half  its  height,  resembling  fine  dust  and  ashes. 

The  formation  of  this  mountain,  like  the  rest  of  the 
range  to  the  north,  consists  of  horizontal  strata  of  lime- 


284 


GENERAL  ASPECT. 


stone ;  the  exterior,  of  an  incinerated  brown,  is  so  regular  in 
its  stratification  as  to  present  a  scarped  and  fortified  aspect. 

The  mountain-sides  and  summits,  and  the  shores  of  this 
sea,  thus  far,  were  almost  entirely  devoid  of  vegetation ; 
and  the  solitary  tree,  of  which  I  have  spoken,  alone 
refreshed  the  eye,  while  all  else  within  the  scope  of  vision 
was  dreary  and  utter  desolation.  The  curse  of  God  is 
surely  upon  this  unhallowed  sea ! 

Picked  up  fresh-water  shells  in  the  torrenkbed,  and 
fragments  of  flesh-coloured  flint  upon  the  sea  shore,  and 
gathered  some  specimens  of  rock. 

At  2.12,  started  again;  scarce  any  wind;  weather 
warm  but  not  oppressive ;  the  sky  somewhat  clouded 
with  cumuli;  the  course,  S.  i  W.  The  curve  of  the  shore 
forms  a  bay  between  the  delta  we  have  just  left,  and  a 
point  bearing  S.  S.  E. 

At  3  P.  M.,  abreast  of  the  high  cliff  Hathurah,  and  the 
Wady  Sildeir,  immediately  north  of  it.  3.15,  under  the 
mouth  of  a  large  cave,  which  was  two-thirds  up  the  cliff. 
The  delta,  which  had  narrowed  since  leaving  the  bed  of 
the  Kidron,  began  to  spread  out  again  from  the  mountains 
towards  the  sea. 

3.25,  abreast  of  Wady  Ghuweir,  which  presented  a  sin¬ 
gular  appearance  on  its  summits;  the  northern  one  resem¬ 
bling  a  watch-tower,  and  the  southern  one  a  castle. 

3.30,  low  land  visible  to  the  southward;  a  fire  on  the 
eastern  shore.  The  face  and  sides  of  this  ravine  are  cut 
into  terraces  by  the  action  of  the  winter  rains. 

Narrow  strips  of  canes  and  tamarisks  immediately  at 
the  foot  of  the  cliff, — a  luxuriant  line  of  green ;  save  the 
solitary  ghurrah-tree,  the  only  thing  we  have  seen  to 
cheer  the  eye  since  leaving  the  tawny  cane-brake  of  Ain 
el  Feshkhah.  A  beach  of  coarse,  dark  gravel  below,  and 
barren,  brown  mountains  above,  throughout  the  whole 
intervening  space. 


DESOLATE  SCENE. 


285 

At  4.15?  half  a  mile  from  the  shore,  threw  over  the 
drag  in  ten  fathoms  water.  It  brought  up  nothing  but 
mud. 

4.30,  a  perfect  calm.  The  clouds  hung  motionless  in 
the  still  air,  and  their  shadows  chequered  the  rugged  sur¬ 
face  of  the  mountains  of  Arabia.  It  was  the  grandeur 
of  desolation;  no  being  seen  —  all  sound  unheard — we 
were  in  the  midst  of  a  profound  and  awful  solitude. 

4.41,  approaching  Ain  Turabeh.  On  a  point  stretching 
out  into  the  sea  are  a  few  ghurrah-trees  and  some  tama¬ 
risk-bushes,  and  tufts  of  cane  and  grass,  which  alone 
relieved  the  dreary  scene ;  all  besides  are  brown,  incine¬ 
rated  hills,  masses  of  conglomerate,  banks  of  sand  and 
dust,  impalpable  as  ashes,  and  innumerable  boulders, 
bleached  by  long  exposure  to  the  sun. 

4.43,  rounded  the  point,  which  was  low  and  gravelly, 
with  some  drift-wood  upon  it;  rowed  by  a  small  but 
luxuriant  cane-brake,  and  camped  a  short  distance  from 
the  fountain. 

The  clear,  shelving  beach,  the  numerous  tamarisk  and 
ghurrah-trees,  and  the  deep  green  of  the  luxuriant  cane, 
rendered  this,  by  contrast,  a  delightful  spot. 

The  indentation  of  the  coast  formed  here  a  perfect 
little  bay ;  and  the  water  of  the  fountain,  although 
warm,  is  pure  and  sweet.  Its  temperature,  75°.  It 
rather  trickles  than  gushes  from  the  north  side  of  the 
bay,  within  ten  paces  of  the  sea. 

We  found  here  a  pistachia*  in  full  bloom,  hut  its 
pretty  white  and  pink  flowers  yielded  no  fragrance.  In 
the  stream  of  the  little  fountain  were  several  lily-stalks, 
and  the  sand  was  discoloured  with  a  sulphureous  deposit, 

*  Pistachia  Terebinthus;  the  terebinth  of  Scripture.  It  is  here  a  dwarf, 
but  is  said  to  grow  larger  on  the  plains.  It  was  under  the  shade  of  a 
terebinth-tree  that  Abraham  pitched  his  tent  at  Mamre.  The  Arabs  call  it 
u  butm.” 


286 


VEGETABLE  PRODUCTS. 


as  at  Ain  el  Feshkhah.  The  Arabs  formed  a  number  of 
pools  around  by  scooping  out  the  sand  and  gravel  with 
their  hands.  They  brought  us  a  species  of  large  pea, 
growing  each  in  a  separate  pod,  a  number  of  them  clus¬ 
tering  on  a  low,  shrub-like  plant.  It  is  a  product  of  cul¬ 
tivation,  and  must  have  come  from  beyond  the  desert  of 
Judea,  which  stretches  westward,  from  the  cliffs  above, 
nearly  to  the  meridian  of  Hebron  and  Bethlehem,  and 
much  farther  south  than  the  first.  The  shell  of  the  pea  is 
coated  with  a  furze,  which  resembles  the  down  of  the  ice- 
plant  when  the  dew  is  upon  it,  and  is  salt  and  bitter  to 
the  taste,  —  hence  its  name,  “hamoos”  (sour);  when 
dipped  in  fresh  water,  the  unpleasant  taste  is  removed. 
The  pea  itself  is  like  our  large  marrow-fat  pea,  but  not  so 
luscious. 

An  Arab  brought  us  some  dhom  apples,  the  fruit  of 
the  nubk,  or  spina  Christi.  They  were  then  withered, 
and  presented  the  appearance  of  a  small,  dried  crab-apple. 
It  had  a  stone  like  the  cherry ;  but  the  stone  was  larger, 
and  there  was  less  fruit  on  it  in  proportion  to  its  size. 
It  was  sub-acid,  and  to  us  quite  palatable ;  and,  reclined 
upon  the  shelving  beach  of  pebbles,  we  took  off  the  edge 
of  appetite  while  our  cook  was  preparing  the  second  and 
last  meal  of  the  day. 

The  plants  we  found  here,  besides  the  lily,  were  the 
yellow  henbane,  with  narcotic  properties;  the  nightshade 
(anit  et  dil),  or  wolf-grape,  supposed,  by  Hasselquist,  to 
be  the  wild  grape  alluded  to  in  Isaiah ;  the  lamb’s  quar¬ 
ter,  used  in  the  manufacture  of  barilla ;  and  a  species  of 
kale  (salicornea  Europea) .  This  plant  is  found  wherever 
salt  water  or  saline  formations  occur.  It  was  here  upon 
the  shore  of  the  Dead  Sea,  and  Fremont  saw  it  on  the 
borders  of  the  Great  Salt  Lake,  west  of  the  Mississippi. 
Besides  the  single  pistachia  tree,  there  were  a  great  many 
tamarisks,  now  also  in  blossom ;  the  flowers  small  and  of 


QUIET  NIGHT  SCENE. 


287 


a  dull  white  colour  :  the  wood  of  the  tree  makes  excellent 
charcoal,  and,  in  the  season,  the  branches  bear  galls 
almost  as  acrid  as  the  oak. 

The  pebbles  on  the  beach,  to-day,  were  agglutinated 
with  salt,  and  the  stones  in  the  torrent-beds  were  coated 
with  saline  incrustations. 

At  6.10,  one  of  the  party  shot  at  a  duck,  a  short  dis¬ 
tance  from  the  shore ; — dark-grey  body,  and  black  head 
and  wings.  This  was  fully  twelve  miles  from  the  Jordan. 

The  bird,  when  fired  at,  flew  but  a  short  distance  out  to 
sea,  where  it  alighted  and  again  directed  its  course  to¬ 
wards  the  shore.  We  therefore  inferred  that  its  haunt 
was  among  the  sedges  of  the  little  fountain.  At  sunset, 
the  temperature  was  70° ;  light  and  variable  airs. 

Soon  after  us  the  camel  arrived ;  and  an  Arab  brought 
a  huge  fish,  of  the  cat-fish  species,  from  the  Jordan. 

It  was  a  strange  scene,  to-night.  The  tents  among  the 
tamarisks,  the  Arab  watch-fires,  the  dark  mountains  in 
the  rear,  the  planets  and  the  stars  above  them,  and  the 
boats  drawn  up  on  the  shore.  The  night  was  serene  and 
beautiful ;  the  moon,  now  beginning  to  wane,  shone  on  a 
placid  sea,  upon  which  there  was  not  the  slightest  ripple. 

The  profound  stillness  was  undisturbed  by  the  faintest 
sound,  except  the  tread  of  our  sentinels. 

Saturday,  April  22d.  Awakened  early,  with  the  intelli¬ 
gence  that  Dr.  Anderson  had  arrived  at  Ain  el  Feshkhah, 
with  the  provisions,  Sherif  having  neglected  to  apprise 
him  of  our  contemplated  movement.  Sent  his  tent  and 
some  of  our  Arabs  to  escort  him  to  Ain  Jidy,  yet  farther 
south  upon  this  shore. 

Early  in  the  morning  it  was  quite  cool.  At  6  A.  M., 
temperature  of  the  air  70°  and  very  pleasant.  Took  our 
breakfast  beneath  some  tamarisk  trees  in  bloom,  the 
grateful  shade  enhanced  by  their  delicious  fragrance.  An 
Arab  brought  some  specimens  of  sulphur  picked  up  on  \ 


288 


HILLS  AND  RAVINES. 


the  banks  of  the  Jordan  near  the  sea,  most  probably 
washed  down  from  the  mountains  by  the  river  torrents. 
Some  flowers  were  gathered  and  placed  in  our  herbarium 
for  preservation.  Our  arms,  instruments,  and  everything 
metallic,  were  bronzed  by  the  saline  atmosphere. 

At  7.51  A.  M.,  started  for  Ain  Jidy  (fountain  of  the 
kid) ;  wind  light  from  S.  E.,  with  a  short  troubled  swell — 
the  heavily  laden  boats  rolled  unmercifully.  A  few  clouds 
in  the  north-east ;  cumulus  stratus ;  steered  S.  by  E.  to 
clear  the  point  to  the  southward. 

The  point  is  a  projection  of  a  low,  flat  delta  of  sand 
and  pebbles,  like  the  deposit  of  a  large  water-course. 
Two  deep  wadys  in  the  rear,  Wady  Ta’amirah  and  Wady 
Deraj  eh  (ravine  of  the  step)  ;  the  mountains  withdrawn 
at  their  point  of  junction. 

At  8.20,  abreast  of  the  first  named  ravine,  at  the  head 
of  which  is  Bethlehem.  Thus  on  one  side  is  the  sea,  the 
record  of  God’s  wrath ;  on  the  other  the  birth-place  of  the 
Redeemer  of  the  world. 

From  Ain  et  Turabeh  to  this  place  is  a  range  of  con¬ 
glomerate  in  thin  horizontal  strata,  terminating  in  a  range 
of  sand-hills  half  the  height  of  the  burnt-looking  moun¬ 
tains  of  limestone.  The  hills  run  south-east  to  a  point 
with  scattering  tufts  of  grass  and  shrubs  to  their  very 
summits. 

8.30,  Wady  Hiisasah;  8.45,  abreast  of  Wady  Shukif;  a 
low  flat  plain  here  extends  half  a  mile  south-easterly  to  a 
point.  The  ravine  had  water  in  it. 

A  thin,  haze-like,  heated  vapour  over  the  southern  sea 
— appearance  of  an  island  between  the  two  shores.  Wind 
gone  down;  sun  intensely  hot.  9.35,  Wady  Muddebbeh 
Said  ’Obeideh,  a  singular  oval  chasm ;  lofty  cliffs,  light 
and  dark  brown.  9.40,  a  light  refreshing  breeze  from 
S.  W.  9.45,  Ras  Mersed,  high  and  rugged.  9.50,  passed 
through  a  line  of  foam,  curved  to  the  north,  and  coloured 


REMARKABLE  CAVES.  289 

brown  by  floating  patches  of  what  seemed  to  be  the  dust 
of  rotten  wood. 

At  10.25,  hailed  by  an  Arab  from  the  shore,  but  could 
not  understand  him.  10.40,  passed  through  a  line  of 
white  foam.  Through  the  mist  the  peninsula  looked  like 
an  island.  10.42,  abreast  of  wady  Mukaddam  (ravine  of 
the  Advanced)  ;  sand  cropping  out  near  the  summits  on 
each  side.  At  11,  under  a  high  peak  of  a  mountain,  the 
escarpment  furrowed  with  innumerable  dry  water-courses. 
The  marks  upon  the  shore  indicated  that  the  sea  had 
fallen  seven  feet  this  season. 

At  11.20,  stopped  to  examine  a  ruin  a  short  distance 
up  the  mountain  side.  It  is  an  old  wall  of  unhewn  stones 
without  cement.  The  wall  is  on  the  front  and  two  sides ; 
the  rear  is  the  mountain  side,  in  the  face  of  which  are 
several  caves,  with  apertures  cut  through  the  rock  to  the 
air  above,  most  probably  for  the  escape  of  smoke.  The 
walls  were  evidently  built  to  defend  the  entrance  of  the 
caves  long  subsequent  to  their  excavation.  The  caves 
were  filled  with  detritus,  lime,  and  a  deposit  of  salt  in 
cubes.  They  were  perfectly  dry,  without  stalactites  or 
petrifactions  of  any  kind  except  the  cubes  of  salt.  The 
largest  cave  could  contain  twenty  or  thirty  men,  and  has 
a  long,  low,  narrow  gallery  running  from  one  side,  which 
would  be  invisible  when  the  sun  does  not  shine  through 
the  entrance.  This  is  in  the  wilderness  of  Engaddi,  and 
the  fountain  is  just  beyond  the  next  ravine. 

At  11.45,  started  again,  and,  at  12.10,  stopped  at 
Wady  Sudeir,  below  Ain  Jidy  (Engaddi).  Walked  up 
the  dry  torrent  bed,  and  finding  no  suitable  place  for 
encampment,  directed  the  boats  to  be  taken  half  a  mile 
farther  south,  where  they  were  hauled  up,  and  our 
tents  pitched  near  them,  immediately  in  a  line  with,  but 
some  distance  from  where  the  fountain  stream  of  Ain 
Jidy  descends  the  mountain  side  and  is  lost  in  the  plain ; 
25  t 


290 


THE  LOTUS  TREE. 


its  course  marked  by  a  narrow  strip  of  luxuriant  green. 
The  Wady  Sudeir  has  water  in  it  some  distance  up,  but 
too  remote  for  our  purposes. 

Instead  of  the  fine  grassy  plain,  which,  from  Dr.  Robin¬ 
son’s  description,  we  had  anticipated,  we  found  here  a 
broad  sloping  delta  at  the  mouth  of  dry  gorges  in  the 
mountains.  The  surface  of  this  plain  is  dust  covered 
with  coarse  pebbles  and  minute  fragments  of  stone,  mostly 
flint,  with  here  and  there  a  niibk  and  some  osher  trees. 
The  last  were  in  blossom,  but  had  some  of  the  fruit  of 
last  year,  dry  and  fragile,  hanging  upon  them,  and  we 
collected  some  for  preservation.  The  blossom  is  a  deli¬ 
cate  purple,  small,  bell-shaped,  and  growing  in  large  clus¬ 
ters.  The  leaf  is  oblong,  about  four  inches  long  by  three 
wide,  thick,  smooth,  and  of  a  dark  green,  and  except  that 
it  is  smaller,  much  resembling  the  caoutchouc.  The 
branches  are  tortuous  like  the  locust,  and  the  light  brown 
bark  has  longitudinal  ash-coloured  ridges  upon  it,  like 
the  sassafras  at  home.  The  niibk  or  lotus  tree,  the  spina 
Christi  of  Hasselquist,  called  by  the  Arabs  the  dhom  tree, 
has  small  dark-green,  oval-shaped,  ivy-like  leaves.  Clus¬ 
tering  thick  and  irregularly  upon  the  crooked  branches, 
are  sharp  thorns,  half  an  inch  in  length.  The  smaller 
branches  are  very  pliant,  which,  in  connexion  with  the 
ivy-like  appearance  of  the  leaves,  sustain  the  legend  that 
of  them  was  made  the  mock  crown  of  the  Redeemer.  Its 
fruit,  as  I  have  before  mentioned,  is  subacid,  and  of  a 
pleasant  flavour. 

There  were  tamarisk  trees  and  much  cane  in  the  bed 
of  the  ravine,  besides  many  pink  oleanders.  About  the 
plain  we  found  the  rock-rose,  from  one  of  the  species  of 
which  the  gum  ladanum  is  procured;  also  the  common 
pink ;  the  Aleppo  senna,  which  is  used  in  medicine ;  the 
common  mallow,  and  the  scentless  yellow  mignonette. 

On  the  upper  part  of  the  plain  were  terraces,  which 


AIN  JIDY  (ENGADDI). 


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\ 

CAVERNED  MOUNTAIN.  291 

bore  marks  of  former  cultivation,  perhaps  cucumber-beds, 
such  as  seen  by  Dr.  Robinson  and  Mr.  Smith.  They  were 
owned  by  the  Ta’amirah,  and  were  destroyed  a  short 
time  before  by  a  tribe  of  hostile  Arabs.  We  found  a  few 
small  prickly  cucumbers,  or  gerkins,  in  detached  places. 
There  were  two  patches  of  barley  standing,  which  were 
scarce  above  the  ground,  perhaps,  at  the  time  of  the  hos¬ 
tile  incursion.  Yet,  although  it  could  have  been  but  a 
few  weeks  since,  the  grain  was  nearly  ready  for  the  har¬ 
vest.  The  wdiole  aspect  of  the  country,  these  few  trees 
and  patches  of  vegetation  excepted,  was  one  incinerated 
brown.  The  mountain,  with  caverns  in  its  face,  towered 
fifteen  hundred  feet  above  us ;  and  one-third  up  was  the 
fountain,  in  a  grove  of  spina  Christi.  It  was  a  spot 
familiar  to  the  imaginations  of  all, — the  “  Diamond  of 
the  Desert,”  in  the  tales  of  the  crusaders. 

Examined  the  boats  for  repairs.  Found  them  very 
much  battered,  and  their  keels,  stems,  and  stern-posts, 
fractured.  Commenced  a  series  of  barometrical  and  ther- 
mometrical  observations,  and  surveyed  the  ground  for  a 
base-line.  Observed  some  branches  of  trees  floating, 
about  a  mile  from  the  shore,  towards  the  north,  con¬ 
firming  our  impression  of  an  eddy-current.  At  6  P.  M., 
an  Arab  brought  in  a  catbird  he  had  killed ;  like  all  the 
other  birds,  and  most  of  the  insects  and  animals,  we  had 
seen,  it  was  of  a  stone  colour. 

In  the  evening,  some  of  the  tribe  Ta’amirah  came  in, — 
a  little  more  robust,  but  scarcely  better  clad,  than  the 
Rashayideh.  They  were  warm  and  hungry,  from  walk¬ 
ing  a  long  distance  to  meet  us.  They  had  no  food,  and  I 
directed  some  cooked  rice  to  be  given  to  them.  They 
had  seated  themselves  round  the  pot,  and  were  greedily 
about  to  devour  it,  when  one  of  them  suggested  that,  per¬ 
haps,  pork  had  been  cooked  in  the  same  vessel.  They 
rose,  therefore,  in  a  body,  and  came  to  the  cook  to  satisfy 


292 


ARAB  SOBRIETY. 


their  scruple.  I  never  saw  disappointment  more  strongly 
pictured  in  the  human  countenance  than  when  told  that 
the  vessel  had  often  been  used  for  that  purpose.  Although 
nearly  famished,  they  would  not  touch  the  rice,  and  we 
could  give  them  nothing  else.  Fearing  that  our  provi¬ 
sions  would  fall  short,  I  advised  them  to  return ;  not  to 
their  houses,  for  they  have  nothing  so  stable  as  to  deserve 
the  name,  but  to  their  migratory  tents. 

As  in  all  southern  nations  of  this  continent,  the  prin¬ 
cipal  food  of  the  Arab  is  rice.  Almost  all  other  nations 
extract  an  intoxicating  beverage  from  the  plant,  contain¬ 
ing  saccharine  matter,  which  constitutes  their  principal 
article  of  nourishment.  But  the  Arab  scarcely  knows 
what  strong  drink  is,  and  has  no  name  for  wine,  the 
original  Arabic  word  for  which  is  now  applied  to  coffee. 

Our  Arabs  were  such  pilferers  that  we  were  obliged  to 
keep  a  most  vigilant  watch  over  everything,  except  the 
pork,  which,  being  an  abomination  to  the  Muslim,  was 
left  about  the  camp,  in  full  confidence  that  it  would  be 
untouched. 

At  8.30,  there  was  a  light  breeze  from  the  south-west — 
no  clouds  visible — a  pale-blue  misty  appearance  over  the 
sea.  At  9,  the  wind  shifted  to  the  north  and  blew  strong; 
forced  to  strengthen  the  tent-stakes  and  pile  stones  upon 
the  canvass  eaves.  The  moon  rose  clear.  Sea,  rough. 
Weather,  cool  and  pleasant;  thermometer,  71°.  A  strong 
smell  of  sulphuretted  hydrogen,  which  surprised  us,  as  we 
knew  of  no  thermal  spring  in  this  vicinity.  At  midnight, 
sky  almost  cloudless;  thin  strata  of  cirri,  extending 
north-east  and  south-west.  Thermometer,  70°.  Wind 
ranging  from  north  to  north-east,  and  abating.  Sherif 
said  that  he  had  often  heard  of  the  tyranny  of  the  Franks 
towards  each  other,  but  never  thought  they  would  have 
sent  their  countrymen  to  so  desolate  a  place  as  this. 
Most  of  the  Arabs,  however,  suspected  that  we  came  for 


ANXIETY  AS  TO  PROVISIONS.  293 

gold ;  and  Dr.  Anderson’s  hammering  at  the  rocks  was, 
to  them,  conclusive  proof  of  this  hypothesis. 

We  had  this  afternoon  measured  a  base  line  of  3350 
feet  across  the  plain,  and  angled  upon  all  possible  points. 
An  Arab,  with  two  camels  loaded  with  salt,  came  from 
the  south  end  of  the  sea,  and  was  going  up  this  pass  to 
Gaza.  Commerce  extends  even  here,  although  her  bur¬ 
nished  keels  have  never  ploughed  this  dreary  sea. 

Our  water  was  brought  the  distance  of  a  mile  by  the 
Arabs.  There  were  about  fifty  of  them  around  the  camp, 
and  we  could  not  persuade  them  to  go  away.  They  were 
of  the  Raschayideh  and  T  a’  amir  ah  tribes — mere  bundles 
of  rags,  very  poor,  and,  so  far,  perfectly  inoffensive.  Some 
of  them  kissed  our  hands,  and,  pointing  to  their  miserable 
garments,  by  comprehensible  gestures  solicited  charity. 

Our  bread  and  rice  falling  short,  and  being  uncertain 
about  the  arrival  of  provisions  from  Jerusalem,  I  this  day 
sent  some  Arabs  to  Hebron  for  flour.  Would  that  we 
could  have  gone  there,  too,  and  visited  the  cave  of  Mac- 
pelah,  near  Mamre ! 

One  of  my  greatest  anxieties  was  the  difficulty  of  pro¬ 
curing  provisions.  Should  our  train,  coming  from  Jeru¬ 
salem  under  charge  of  Dr.  Anderson  and  the  Sherif,  be 
plundered  on  its  way,  and  the  emissary  to  Hebron  procure 
but  a  small  supply,  we  should  have  been  in  a  starving  condi¬ 
tion.  I  would  have  also  sent  either  Mr.  Dale  or  Mr.  Aulick 
to  Jerusalem,  but  that  their  presence  was  absolutely  ne¬ 
cessary.  To  sound  the  sea,  take  topographical  sketches 
of  its  shores,  and  make  astronomical  and  barometrical 
observations,  gave  full  occupation  to  every  one.  This 
was  to  be  our  depot ;  here  we  were  to  leave  our  tents, 
and  everything  we  could  dispense  with.  It  would  be 
our  home  while  upon  this  sea,  and,  in  honour  of  the 
greatest  man  the  world  has  yet  produced,  I  named  it 
“Camp  Washington.” 

25  * 


294  INACCESSIBLE  CAVERNS. 

April  23,  Easter  Sunday.  Deferred  all  work  that  we 
could  possibly  set  aside,  until  to-morrow.  At  6  A.  M., 
weather  pleasant — thermometer  standing  at  70°  in  the 
tent.  At  7,  84°;  7.30,  85°;  the  two  extremities  of  the  sea 
misty,  with  constant  evaporation ;  sky  cloudless,  a  light 
breeze  from  the  north;  the  heat  so  oppressive  in  the  tent, 
that  we  breakfasted  ual  fresco.”  A.  M.  Walking  along 
the  beach,  saw  a  hawk,  and  shortly  after  some  doves,  near 
the  tent,  all  of  the  same  colour  as  the  mountains  and  the 
shore.  Each  day,  in  the  forenoon,  the  wind  had  pre¬ 
vailed  from  the  southward,  and  in  the  afternoon,  until 
about  midnight,  from  the  northward ;  the  last  wind  quite 
fresh,  and  accompanied  with  a  smell  of  sulphur.  After 
midnight,  it  generally  fell  calm.  Although  the  nights 
were  mostly  cloudless,  there  was  scarcely  any  deposit  of 
dew,  the  ground  remaining  heated  through  the  night  from 
the  intensity  of  the  solar  rays  during  the  day. 

Four  young  wild  boars  were  brought  in  by  an  Arab; 
they  escaped  from  him  and  ran  to  the  sea,  but  were  caught, 
and,  because  we  would  not  buy  them,  they  were  killed. 

Nearly  out  of  provisions,  and,  anxiously  looking  for  Dr. 
Anderson  and  the  Sherif,  we  gladly  hailed  their  appear¬ 
ance  shortly  after  noon,  creeping  like  mites  along  the 
lofty  crags  descending  to  this  deep  chasm.  Some  of  our 
party  had  discovered  in  the  face  of  the  precipice,  near  the 
fountain,  several  apertures,  one  of  them  arched  and  faced 
with  stone.  There  was  no  perceptible  access  to  the 
caverns,  which  were  once,  perhaps,  the  abodes  of  the 
Essenes.  Our  sailors  could  not  get  to  them ;  and  where 
they  fail,  none  hut  monkeys  can  succeed.  There  must 
have  been  terraced  pathways  formerly  cut  in  the  face  of 
the  rock,  which  have  been  worn  away  by  winter  torrents. 

Although  we  saw  the  Doctor  and  Sherif  shortly  after 
noon,  they  did  not  reach  the  camp  until  3.30,  P.  M.  The 
provisions  they  brought  were  very  acceptable.  With 


AN  ARAB  DANCE.  295 

them,  came  four  Turkish  soldiers,  to  guard  our  camp 
while  we  should  be  absent. 

P.  M.  We  again  noticed  a  current,  setting  to  the  north¬ 
ward  along  the  shore,  and  one  farther  out,  setting  to  the 
southward.  The  last  was  no  doubt  the  impetus  given  by 
the  Jordan,  and  the  former  its  eddy,  deflected  by  Usdum 
and  the  southern  shore  of  the  sea. 

Arranged  with  Sherif  that  he  should  remain  here,  in 
charge  of  our  camp. 

The  scene  at  sunset  was  magnificent ; — the  wild,  mighty 
cliffs  above  us,  the  dull,  dead  sea,  and  the  shadows  climb¬ 
ing  up  the  eastern  mountains.  And  there  was  Kerak, 
castled  upon  the  loftiest  summit  of  the  range.  We  never 
looked  upon  it  but  we  deplored  the  folly  and  rapacity  of 
the  “  Lord  of  Kerak,”  which  lost  to  Christendom  the 
guardianship  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre. 

We  all  felt  a  great  oppression  about  the  head,  and  much 
drowsiness,  particularly  during  the  heat  of  the  day.  In 
the  evening,  it  was  calm  and  sultry. 

At  night  we  visited  Sherif.  A  number  of  Arabs  were 
gathered  in  front  of  the  tent,  and  they  gave  us  a  dance. 
Ten  or  twelve  of  them  were  drawn  up  in  a  line,  curved  a 
little  inwards,  and  one  of  them  stood  in  front,  with  a  naked 
sword.  A  mass  of  filthy  rags,  with  black  heads  above  and 
spindle  legs  below !  Clapping  their  hands,  and  chanting  a 
low,  monotonous  song,  bowing  and  bending,  and  swinging 
their  bodies  from  side  to  side,  they  followed  the  motions  of 
the  one  in  front.  In  a  short  time,  one  of  them  commenced 
chanting  extempore,  and  the  others  repeated  the  words 
with  monotonous  cadence;  he  with  the  sword  waving  it 
to  and  fro  in  every  direction,  and  keeping  time  and 
movement  with  the  rest.  Their  song  referred  to  us. 
“Mr.  Dale  was  strong  and  rode  a  horse  well.”  “Kobtan, 
(the  captain)  made  much  work  for  Arabs,  with  his 
head.”  The  dance  was  interrupted  by  an  old  man  sud 


296 


SULPHUREOUS  ODOUR. 


denly  darting  into  the  circle,  and,  hare-footed,  with  his 
aba  gathered  in  his  hands  behind  him,  went  jumping, 
hopping,  crouching,  and  keeping  time  to  the  strange 
sounds  of  the  others.  The  grotesque  movements,  the 
low  monotonous  tones,  and  the  seeming  ill-timed  levity 
of  the  old  Arab,  gave  to  the  whole '  affair  the  appearance 
of  a  wild  coronach,  disturbed  by  the  antics  of  a  mounte¬ 
bank.  In  the  swaying  of  the  body  and  clapping  of  the 
hands,  some  of  us  detected  a  resemblance  to  the  war- 
dance  of  the  South  Sea  Islanders. 

A  calm,  sultry  night.  At  this  hour,  last  night  (11 
o’clock),  it  blew  a  fresh  breeze  from  the  north.  In  the 
mid-watch  there  was  a  bright  meteor  from  the  zenith, 
towards  the  north-east.  The  same  sulphureous  smell,  but 
less  unpleasant  than  when  the  wind  blew  fresh.  Moly- 
neaux  detected  the  same  odour  the  night  he  spent  upon 
the  sea,  whence  he  thought  it  proceeded.  We  have 
been  twice  upon  the  sea  when  the  spray  was  driven  in 
our  faces ;  but  although  the  water  was  greasy,  acrid,  and 
disagreeable,  it  was  perfectly  inodorous.  I  am  therefore 
inclined  to  attribute  the  noxious  smell  to  the  foetid  springs 
and  marshes  along  the  shores  of  the  sea,  increased,  per¬ 
haps,  by  exhalations  from  stagnant  pools  in  the  flat  plain 
which  bounds  it  to  the  north. 

Monday,  April  24.  Called  all  hands  at  4.45  A.  M. ; 
light  wind  from  the  north ;  clouds,  cirro-stratus,  in  the 
south  and  east;  temperature,  78°.  Wrote  a  note  to  Mr. 
Finn,  H.  B.  M.  consul  at  Jerusalem,  respecting  provisions. 
This  gentleman  had  been  exceedingly  kind  and  attentive. 
He  had  received  our  money  on  deposit,  and  paid  my 
drafts  upon  him.  By  this  means  we  kept  but  little 
money  on  hand,  and  avoided  presenting  a  great  tempta¬ 
tion  to  the  Arabs. 

At  6,  breakfasted  luxuriously  on  fresh  bread,  brought, 
by  the  Doctor,  from  Jerusalem.  The  latter  reported 


THE  PENINSULA. 


297 


Hugh  Reid  (seaman),  one  of  the  crew  of  the  Fanny  Skin¬ 
ner,  as  unable  to  work  at  the  oar.  Determined  to  leave 
him  in  the  camp,  his  affection  being  a  chronic  one,  unin¬ 
fluenced  by  the  climate. 

At  6.38,  started  with  Dr.  Anderson,  in  the  Fanny  Ma¬ 
son,  for  the  peninsula,  which  had  so  long  loomed,  like 
Cape  Flyaway,  in  the  distance.  Directed  Mr.  Aulick  to 
pull  directly  across  to  Wady  Mojeb  (the  River  Arnon  of 
the  Old  Testament),  and  sound  as  he  proceeded. 

I  left  Mr.  Dale  and  the  rest  of  the  party  to  make  obser¬ 
vations  for  determining  the  position  of  the  camp,  and 
measure  angles  for  each  end  of  the  base-line.  We  steered, 
in  the  Fanny  Mason,  a  south-east  course,  directly  for  the 
north  end  of  the  peninsula,  sounding  at  short  intervals. 
The  first  cast,  near  the  shore,  brought  up  slimy  mud,  but 
further  out,  a  light-coloured  mud,  and  many  perfectly 
well  formed  cubic  crystals  of  salt.  These,  as  well  as 
the  mud,  were  carefully  put  up  in  air-tight  vessels ; 
greatest  depth,  137  fathoms.  One  of  the  deepest  casts, 
the  cup  to  Stelwagon’s  lead  brought  up  a  blade  of  grass, 
faded  in  colour,  but  of  as  firm  a  texture  as  any  plucked 
on  the  margin  of  a  brook.  It  must  have  been  washed 
down  by  one  of  the  fresh-water  streams,  in  connection 
with  a  heavier  substance. 

About  midway  across  picked  up  a  dead  bird,  which 
was  floating  upon  the  water ;  we  recognised  it  as  a  small 
quail.  At  11,  reached  the  peninsula;  the  sun  intensely 
hot.  It  is  a  bold,  broad  promontory,  from  forty  to  sixty 
feet  high,  with  a  sharp  angular  central  ridge  some  twenty 
feet  above  it,  and  a  broad  margin  of  sand  at  its  foot,  in- 
crusted  with  salt  and  bitumen ;  the  perpendicular  face 
extending  all  round  and  presenting  the  coarse  and  chalky 
appearance  of  recent  carbonate  of  lime.  There  were 
myriads  of  dead  locusts  strewed  upon  the  beach  near 
the  margin  of  the  sea.  The  summit  of  the  peninsula  is 


298  INCRUSTATIONS  ON  BUSHES. 

irregular  and  rugged ;  in  some  places  showing  the  tent- 
shape  formation,  in  others,  a  series  of  disjointed  crags. 
On  the  western  side,  the  high  peninsula  with  its  broad 
margin  extends  to  the  southward  until  it  is  lost  in  the 
misty  sea. 

Dr.  Anderson  describes  the  peninsula  as  a  loose,  calca¬ 
reous  marl,  with  incrustations  of  salt  and  indications  of 
sulphur,  nitre,  gypsum,  marly  clays,  &c. ;  and  the  northern 
extremity,  which  he  estimates  one-third  higher  than  I  do, 
as  chalky,  with  flints ;  the  texture  soft  and  crumbling. 

There  were  a  few  bushes,  their  stems  partly  buried  in 
the  water,  and  their  leafless  branches  incrusted  with  salt, 
which  sparkled  as  trees  do  at  home  when  the  sun  shines 
upon  them  after  a  heavy  sleet.  Such  an  image,  presented 
to  the  mind,  while  the  frame  was  weltering  with  the  heat, 
was  indeed  like  “  holding  a  fire  in  the  hand  and  thinking 
of  the  frosty  Caucasus.”  Near  the  immediate  base  of  the 
cliffs  was  a  line  of  drift-wood  deposited  by  the  sea  at  its 
full.  Save  the  standing  and  prostrate  dead  trees,  there 
was  not  a  vestige  of  vegetation.  The  mind  cannot  con¬ 
ceive  a  more  dreary  scene,  or  an  atmosphere  more  stifling 
and  oppressive.  The  reverberation  of  heat  and  light  from 
the  chalk-like  hills  and  the  salt  beach  was  almost  insup¬ 
portable. 

Walking  up  the  beach  we  saw  the  tracks  of  a  hyena, 
and  another  animal  which  we  did  not  recognise,  and  soon 
after  the  naked  footprints  of  a  man.  To  the  eastward 
of  the  point  is  a  deep  bay  indenting  the  peninsula  from 
the  north.  We  followed  up  an  arched  passage  worn  in 
the  bank,  and  cutting  steps  in  the  salt  on  each  side  of  the 
upper  part,  crawled  through  a  large  hole  worn  by  the 
rains,  and  clambered  up  the  steep  side  of  the  ridge  to 
gain  a  view  from  the  top.  It  presented  a  surface  of  sharp 
and  angular  points,  light  coloured,  bare  of  vegetation,  and 
blinding  to  the  eye.  We  here  collected  many  crystals  of 


ROBBERS  1 1ST  THE  WAY. 


299 


carbonate  of  lime.  During  our  absence,  the  sailors  had 
endeavoured  to  make  a  fire  of  the  drift-wood  as  a  signal 
to  the  camp,  but  it  was  so  impregnated  with  salt  that  it 
would  not  burn. 

At  1  P.  M.,  started  on  our  return,  steering  directly 
across  to  measure  the  width  of  the  strait  between  the  pe¬ 
ninsula  and  the  western  shore.  There  was  little  wind, 
the  same  faint  sulphureous  smell,  and  every  one  struggling 
against  a  sensation  of  drowsiness.  Arrived  at  the  camp 
a  little  before  6  P.  M.,  in  a  dead  calm,  very  much  wearied, 
temperature  92°.  As  we  landed  an  Arab  ran  up,  and 
gathering  an  armful  of  barley  in  the  straw,  threw  it  on 
the  fire,  and  then  husking  the  grain  by  rubbing  it  in  his 
hands,  brought  it  to  me,  and  by  gesture  invited  me  to  eat; 
it  was  excellent.  The  Fanny  Skinner  arrived  shortly 
after.  Mr.  Aulick  had  sounded  directly  across,  and  found 
the  width  of  the  sea  by  patent  log  to  be  a  little  more  than 
eight  geographical,  or  about  nine  statute  miles ;  the 
greatest  depth  188  fathoms,  1128  feet.  He  landed  at  the 
mouth  of  the  “  Amon — a  considerable  stream  of  water, 
clear,  fresh,  and  moderately  cool,  flowing  between  banks 
of  red  sandstone.  In  it  some  small  fish  were  seen. 

On  our  first  arrival  here,  I  had  despatched  a  messenger 
to  the  tribes  along  the  southern  coast  to  procure  guides. 
This  afternoon  he  returned  with  the  information  that 
they  had  been  driven  away,  and  that  the  country  was  in¬ 
habited  only  by  robbers.  Sherif  was  earnest  in  the  advice 
to  proceed  no  farther  south ;  but  we  could  not  leave  our 
work  unaccomplished.  A  sheikh  of  the  Ta’amirah  agreed 
to  walk  along  the  coast  in  sight  of  the  boats.  We  wished 
to  visit  the  ruins  of  Sebbeh  on  our  route  southward,  and 
prepared  for  several  days’  absence.  At  night  a  fresh 
breeze  sprang  up  from  the  northward  and  eastward. 
There  were  several  large  fires  on  the  peninsula.  Secured 
a  partridge  and  several  insects  for  our  collection;  and 


300 


ARAB  IMPROV IS ATORE. 


there  was  also  gathered  a  specimen  of  every  variety  of 
flower  for  our  herbarium.  In  the  evening  our  Arabs  had 
another  entertainment.  An  improvisatore  in  Arabic  poe¬ 
try  was  engaged  until  a  late  hour  reciting  warlike  narra¬ 
tives  in  verse  for  the  amusement  of  Sherif  —  some  from 
Antar,  the  celebrated  poet  of  Arabia ;  others,  unpremedi¬ 
tated,  in  praise  of  Ibrahim  Pasha.  At  the  end  of  each 
couplet,  some  one  of  the  audience  pronounced  the  final 
rhyming  word  after  him.  This  was  more  endurable  than 
the  one-stringed  rebabeh,  and  less  stupid  than  the  dance 
of  last  evening.  In  the  night,  killed  a  tarantula  and  a 
scorpion. 

Oppressively  sultry.  A  foetid,  sulphureous  odour  in  the 
night ;  felt  quite  sick.  At  daybreak,  a  fine  invigorating 
breeze  from  the  north ;  air  over  the  sea  very  misty.  Did 
not  rouse  the  camp  until  6.30,  for  the  night  had  been 
oppressive.  The  Arabs  becoming  too  numerous  in  the 
camp,  I  sent  all  away,  except  a  few  to  bring  water  to 
Sherif,  and  some  to  accompany  us  to  show  where  water 
could  be  found  along  the  shore. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


EXPEDITION  AROUND  THE  SOUTHERN  SEA. 

Tuesday,  April  25.  Completed  a  set  of  observations, 
bundled  up  the  mess  things,  and  started,  at  9.40,  for  a 
reconnoissance  of  the  southern  part  of  the  sea;  leaving 
Sherif  in  charge  of  the  camp,  with  Read  and  the  four 
Turkish  soldiers.  Steered  about  south,  from  point  to 
point,  keeping  near  the  Arabs  along  the  shore,  for  their 
protection ;  for  they  dreaded  an  attack  from  marauding 
parties.  Threw  the  patent  log  overboard ;  the  weather 
fair  but  exceedingly  hot;  thermometer,  89°;  little  air 
stirring ;  no  clouds  visible ;  the  mountains,  as  we  passed, 
seemed  terraced,  but  the  culture  was  that  of  desolation. 

At  11.05,  the  patent  log  had  marked  21  knots ;  depth,  six 
feet ;  bottom,  soft  brown  mud ;  made  for  a  current  ripple, 
a  little  farther  out,  coloured  with  decomposed  wood,  mem¬ 
branes  of  leaves,  chaff,  &c. ;  depth,  thirteen  fathoms;  hard 
bottom;  resumed  the  course  along  the  shore.  At  12.30, 
abreast  of  a  ravine,  or  wady,  not  down  on  the  maps,  with 
a  broad,  flat  delta  before  it.  These  ravines  all  have 
names,  among  the  Arabs;  but  the  deltas,  or  projecting 
plains,  are  undesignated.  The  limestone  strata  of  the 
mountain  above  it  were  horizontal.  There  was  a  line  of 
verdure  up  the  ravine,  indicating  the  presence  of  water. 
The  log  had  measured  61  nautical  miles  from  Ain  Jidy  . 
soundings,  a  musket-shot  distance  from  the  shore,  one 
fathom;  bottom,  white  sand  and  very  fine  gravel.  At 
12.40,  soundings  one  fathom;  north  end  of  the  penin- 
26  (301) 


302  ANCIENT  FORTIFICATION. 

sula  bearing  east ;  steered  towards  it,  to  try  for  ford ; 
water  deepening  to  21  fathoms  (fifteen  feet),  pulled  into 
the  shore-line  again.  A  small,  beautiful  bird,  with  yel¬ 
low  breast,  flew  along  the  shore.  Occasionally  sounded 
out  to  21  fathoms,  one  mile  from  shore,  to  look  for  ford. 
At  1.58,  abreast  of  Wady  Seyal  Sebbeh  (ravine  of  Aca¬ 
cias),  supposed  to  have  water  in  it,  very  high  up,  the  log 
having  marked  82  nautical  miles.  The  cliff  above  the 
ravine  was  that  of  Sebbeh,  or  Masada.  It  was  a  perpen¬ 
dicular  cliff,  1200  to  1500  feet  high,  with  a  deep  ravine 
breaking  down  on  each  side,  so  as  to  leave  it  isolated. 
On  the  level  summit  was  a  line  of  broken  walls,  pierced 
in  one  place  with  an  arch.  This  fortalice,  constructed  by 
Herod,  and  successfully  beleaguered  by  Silva,  had  a  com¬ 
manding  but  dreary  prospect,  overlooking  the  deep  chasm 
of  this  mysterious  sea.  Our  Arabs  could  give  no  other 
account  of  it  than  that  there  were  ruins  of  large  buildings 
on  the  cliff. 

The  cliff  of  Sebbeh  is  removed  some  distance  from  the 
margin  of  the  sea  by  an  intervening  delta  of  sand  and 
detritus,  of  more  than  two  miles  in  width.  A  mass  of 
scorched  and  calcined  rock,  regularly  laminated  at  its 
summit,  and  isolated  from  the  rugged  strip,  which  skirts 
the  western  shore,  by  deep  and  darkly-shadowed  defiles 
and  lateral  ravines,  its  aspect  from  the  sea  is  one  of  stern 
and  solemn  grandeur,  and  seems  in  harmony  with  the 
fearful  records  of  the  past. 

There  was  that  peculiar  purple  hue  of  its  weather-worn 
rock,  a  tint  so  like  that  of  coagulated  blood  that  it  forced 
the  mind  back  upon  its  early  history,  and  summoned 
images  of  the  fearful  immolation  of  Eleazar  and  the  nine 
hundred  and  sixty-seven  Sicarii,  the  blood  of  whose  self¬ 
slaughter  seemed  to  have  tinged  the  indestructible  cliff 
for  ever. 

At  3.05  P.  M.  a  fine  northerly  wind  blowing;  stopped 


GEOLOGY  OF  THE  WESTERN  SHORE.  303 

to  take  in  our  Arabs.  They  brought  a  piece  of  bitumen, 
found  on  the  shore,  near  Sebbeh,  where  we  had  intended 
to  camp;  but  the  wind  was  fair,  and  there  was  an 
uncertainty  about  water.  We  ascertained  that  there  is 
no  ford  as  laid  down  in  the  map  of  Messrs.  Robinson  and 
Smith.  One  of  the  Arabs  said  that  there  was  once  a  ford 
there,  but  all  the  others  denied  it.  Passed  two  ravines 
and  the  bluff  of  Rubtat  el  Jamus  (Tying  of  the  Buffalo), 
and  at  4.45,  stopped  for  the  night  in  a  little  cove,  imme¬ 
diately  north  of  Wady  Mubilghghik,  five  or  six  miles 
north  of  the  salt-mountain  of  Usdum,  which  looms  up, 
isolated,  to  the  south.  From  Ain  Jidy  to  this  place,  the 
patent  log  has  measured  131  nautical  miles,  which  is  less 
than  the  actual  distance,  the  log  sometimes  not  working, 
from  the  shoalness  of  the  water. 

We  this  day  paid  particular  attention  to  the  geolo¬ 
gical  construction  of  the  western  shore,  with  a  special 
regard  to  the  disposition  of  the  ancient  terraces  and  abut¬ 
ments  of  the  tertiary  limestone  and  marls.  There  may 
be  rich  ores  in  these  barren  rocks.  Nature  is  ever  provi¬ 
dent  in  her  liberality,  and  when  she  denies  fertility  of 
surface,  often  repays  man  with  her  embowelled  treasures. 
There  is  scarce  a  variety  of  rock  that  has  not  been  found 
to  contain  metals ;  and  it  is  said  that  the  richness  of  the 
veins  is  for  the  most  part  independent  of  the  nature  of 
the  beds  they  intersect. 

There  has  been  no  great  variety  in  the  scenery,  to-day ; 
the  same  bold  and  savage  cliffs ;  the  same  broad  penin¬ 
sulas,  or  deltas,  at  the  mouths  of  the  ravines, — some  of 
them  sprinkled  here  and  there  with  vegetation,  —  all 
evincing  the  recent  or  immediate  presence  of  water. 
This  part  of  the  coast  is  claimed  by  no  particular  tribe, 
but  is  common  to  roaming  bands  of  marauders. 

The  beach  was  bordered  with  innumerable  dead  locusts. 
There  was  also  bitumen  in  occasional  lumps,  and  incrus- 


\ 


tations  of  lime  and  salt.  The  bitumen  presented  a  bright, 
smooth  surface  when  fractured,  and  looked  like  a  consoli¬ 
dated  fluid.  The  Arabs  called  it  hajar  Mousa  (Moses’ 

Our  Arabs  insisted  upon  it  that  the  only  ford  was  at 
the  southern  extremity  of  the  sea.  There  were  seven  of 
them  with  us,  and  they  were  of  three  tribes,  the  Kasha- 
yideh,  Ta’amirah  and  Kabeneh.  Being  beyond  the 
limits  of  their  own  territories,  they  were  very  apprehen¬ 
sive  of  an  attack  from  hostile  tribes.  When,  this  after¬ 
noon,  under  the  impression,  which  proved  to  be  correct, 
that  there  was  water  in  the  ravine,  we  called  to  them, 
they  came  down  in  all  haste,  unslinging  their  guns  as 
they  ran,  in  the  supposition  that  we  were  attacked, — 
evincing,  thereby,  more  spirit  than  we  had  anticipated. 
They  were  very  uneasy ;  and,  immediately  after  our 
arrival,  one  of  them  was  perched,  like  a  goat,  upon  a  high 
cliff;  and  the  others  had  bivouacked  where  they  com¬ 
manded  a  full  view  into  the  mouth  of  the  ravine. 

Our  camp  was  in  a  little  cove,  on  the  north  side  of  the 
delta,  which  had  been  formed  by  the  deposition  of  the 
winter  torrents,  and  extends  half  a  mile  out,  with  a 
rounding  point  to  the  eastward.  The  ravine  comes  down 
between  two  high,  round-topped  mountains,  of  a  dark, 
burnt-brown  colour,  and  a  horizontal,  terrace-like  stratum, 
half-way  up.  In  the  plain  were  several  niibk  and  tama¬ 
risk  trees,  and  three  kinds  of  shrubs,  and  some  flowers 
which  we  gathered  for  preservation.  Near  the  ravine,  on 
a  slight  eminence,  we  discovered  the  ruins  of  a  building, 
with  square-cut  stones,  —  the  foundation-walls  alone  re¬ 
maining,  and  a  line  of  low  wall  running  down  to  the 
ravine ;  near  it  was  a  rude  canal.  There  were  many 
remains  of  terraces.  The  low  wall  was,  perhaps,  an 
aqueduct  for  the  irrigation  of  the  plain.  Here  Costigan 
thought  that  he  had  found  the  ruins  of  Gomorrah.  About 


A  SIROCCO. 


305 


half  a  mile  up,  the  faces  of  the  ravine  cut  down  perpen¬ 
dicularly  through  limestone  rock,  and  turned,  at  right 
angles,  a  short  distance  above,  with  here  and  there  a  few 
hushes  in  the  bottom.  We  found  a  little  brook  purling 
down  the  ravine,  and  soon  losing  itself  in  the  dry  plain. 
We  were  now  almost  at  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
sea.  The  boats  having  been  drawn  up  on  the  beach,  their 
awnings  were  made  to  supply  the  places  of  tents,  the 
open  side  facing  the  ravine ;  the  blunderbuss  at  our  head, 
and  the  sentries  walking  beside  it.  At  8  P.  M.,  there 
were  a  few  light  cumuli  in  the  sky,  but  no  wind.  At 
8.30,  a  hot  fresh  wind  from  north-west;  thermometer, 
82°;  at  9,  86°.  Finding  it  too  oppressive  under  the 
awning,  we  crawled  out  upon  the  open  beach,  and,  with 
our  feet  nearly  at  the  water’s  edge,  slept  ua  la  belle 
etoile.”  After  the  manner  of  the  poor  highwayman,  we 
slept  in  our  clothes,  under  arms,  and  upon  the  ground. 
It  continued  very  hot  during  the  night,  and  we  could  not 
endure  even  a  kerchief  over  our  faces,  to  screen  them 
from  the  hot  and  blistering  wind. 

This  was  doubtless  a  sirocco,  but  it  came  from  an  unu¬ 
sual  quarter.  At  midnight,  the  thermometer  stood  at 
88° ;  and  at  4,  the  temperature  of  the  air,  86° ;  of  the 
water,  80°.  Towards  daylight,  the  wind  went  down,  and 
the  thermometer  fell  to  79°.  There  were  several  light 
meteors,  from  the  zenith  towards  the  north,  seen  during 
the  night.  While  the  wind  lasted,  the  atmosphere  was 
hazy.  Notwithstanding  the  oppressive  heat,  there  was  a 
pleasure  in  our  strange  sensations,  lying  in  the  open  air, 
upon  the  pebbly  beach  of  this  desolate  and  unknown  sea, 
perhaps  near  the  sites  of  Sodom  and  Gomorrah ;  the  salt 
mountains  of  Usdum  in  close  proximity,  and  nothing  but 
bright,  familiar  stars  above  us. 

Wednesday,  April  26.  When  I  awoke  this  morning 
there  was  a  young  quail  at  my  side,  where,  in  the  night, 
26  *  u 


306 


LANDING  AT  USDUM. 


it  had  most  probably  crept  for  shelter  from  the  strong, 
hot  wind. 

We  were  up  before  sunrise;  light  variable  airs  and 
warm  weather.  At  5.30,  started  and  steered  S.  i  E.  in  a 
direct  line  for  Ras  Hish  (cape  Thicket),  the  north  point 
of  Usdum.  At  6.42,  fifty  yards  from  the  shore,  sounded, 
the  depth  one  fathom.  Wady  Mubughghik  bearing  west. 
6.51,  soundings  one  and  three-quarter  fathoms,  grey  mud. 
At  7,  two  fathoms,  black,  slimy  mud.  A  light  wind 
sprang  up  from  S.  S.  E.,  a  few  light  cirrus  clouds  in  the 
N.  E.  The  cliffs  gradually  slope  away  and  terminate  in 
Usdum.  Sounding  every  few  minutes  for  the  ford ; 
stretching  out  occasionally  from  the  shore  line,  and  re¬ 
turning  to  it  again,  when  the  water  deepened  to  two 
fathoms.  The  Fanny  Skinner  coasted  along  the  shore  to 
sketch  the  topography,  and  we  kept  further  out  to  sound 
for  the  ford.  At  8,  abreast  of  a  short,  steep,  shrubby 
ravine,  Muhariwat  (the  Surrounded)  ;  a  very  extensive 
excavation  at  its  mouth.  In  front  of  the  ravine  was  a 
beautiful  patch  of  vegetation,  extending  towards  Usdum, 
with  intervals  of  gravel  and  sand.  Many  of  these  ravines 
derive  their  names  from  incidents  in  Arab  history. 

At  8.07,  stopped  to  take  bearings.  Wady  Ez  Zuweirah, 
S.  W.  by  W. ;  the  west  end  of  Usdum,  S.  by  W. ;  marshy 
spit,  north  end  of  do.,  S.  E.  4  E.  Usdum  is  perfectly 
isolated,  but  has  no  appearance  of  being  a  mass  of  salt. 
Perhaps,  like  the  peninsula,  it  is  in  crusted  with  carbonate 
of  lime,  which  gives  it  the  tinge  of  the  eastern  and  western 
mountains. 

At  8.08,  water  shoaling  to  two  and  a  half  feet,  hauled 
off;  8.12,  stood  in  and  landed  on  the  extreme  point  of 
Usdum.  Many  dead  bushes  along  the  shore,  which  are 
incrusted  with  salt  as  at  the  peninsula.  Found  it  a  broad, 
flat,  marshy  delta,  the  soil  coated  with  salt  and  bitumen, 
and  yielding  to  the  foot. 


PILLAR  OF  SALT. 


307 


At  8.30,  started  again  and  steered  E.  S.  E.,  sounding 
every  five  minutes,  the  depth  from  one  to  one  and  three- 
quarter  fathoms ;  white  and  black  slime  and  mud.  A 
swallow  flew  by  us.  At  8.52,  stopped  to  take  compass 
bearings.  Seetzen  saw  this  salt  mountain  in  1806,  and 
says  that  he  never  before  beheld  one  so  torn  and  riven  ; 
but  neither  Costigan  nor  Molyneaux,  who  were  in  boats, 
came  farther  south  on  the  sea  than  the  peninsula.  With 
regard  to  this  part,  therefore,  which  most  probably  covers 
the  guilty  cities, — 

uWe  are  the  first 
That  ever  burst 
Into  this  silent  sea.” 

At  9,  the  water  shoaling,  hauled  more  off  shore.  Soon 
after,  to  our  astonishment,  we  saw  on  the  eastern  side  of 
Usdum,  one  third  the  distance  from  its  north  extreme,  a 
lofty,  round  pillar,  standing  apparently  detached  from  the 
general  mass,  at  the  head  of  a  deep,  narrow,  and  abrupt 
chasm.  We  immediately  pulled  in  for  the  shore,  and  Dr. 
Anderson  and  I  went  up  and  examined  it.  The  beach 
was  a  soft,  slimy  mud  encrusted  with  salt,  and  a  short 
distance  from  the  water,  covered  with  saline  fragments 
and  flakes  of  bitumen.  We  found  the  pillar  to  be  of  solid 
salt,  capped  with  carbonate  of  lime,  cylindrical  in  front 
and  pyramidal  behind.  The  upper  or  rounded  part  is 
about  forty  feet  high,  resting  on  a  kind  of  oval  pedestal, 
from  forty  to  sixty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It 
slightly  decreases  in  size  upwards,  crumbles  at  the  top, 
and  is  one  entire  mass  of  crystallization.  A  prop,  or  but¬ 
tress,  connects  it  with  the  mountain  behind,  and  the 
whole  is  covered  with  debris  of  a  light  stone  colour.  Its 
peculiar  shape  is  doubtless  attributable  to  the  action  of 
the  winter  rains.  The  Arabs  had  told  us  in  vague  terms 
that  there  was  to  be  found  a  pillar  somewhere  upon  the 
shores  of  the  sea;  but  their  statements  in  all  other 


308 


A  BITTER  MELON. 


respects  had  proved  so  unsatisfactory,  that  we  could  place 
no  reliance  upon  them.* 

At  10.10,  returned  to  the  boat  with  large  specimens. 
The  shore  was  soft  and  very  yielding  for  a  great  distance ; 
the  boats  could  not  get  within  200  yards  of  the  beach, 
and  our  foot-prints  made  on  landing,  were,  when  we  re¬ 
turned,  incrusted  with  salt. 

Some  of  the  Arabs,  when  they  came  up,  brought  a  species 
of  melon  they  had  gathered  near  the  north  spit  of  Usdum. 
It  was  oblong,  ribbed,  of  a  dark  green  colour,  much  resem¬ 
bling  a  cantelope.  When  cut,  the  meat  and  seeds  bore 
the  same  resemblance  to  that  fruit,  but  were  excessively 
bitter  to  the  taste.  A  mouthful  of  quinine  could  not 
have  been  more  distasteful,  or  adhered  longer  and  more 
tenaciously  to  the  reluctant  palate. 

Intending  to  examine  the  south  end  of  the  sea,  and 
then  proceed  over  to  the  eastern  shore  in  the  hope  of 
finding  water,  we  discharged  all  our  Arabs  but  one,  and 
sharing  our  small  store  of  water  with  them,  and  giving 
them  provisions,  we  started  again  at  10.30,  and  steered 
south. 

At  10.42,  a  large  black  and  white  bird  flew  up,  and 
lighted  again  upon  the  shore.  The  salt  on  the  face  of 


*  A  similar  pillar  is  mentioned  by  Josephus,  who  expresses  the  belief 
of  its  being  the  identical  one  into  which  Lot’s  wife  was  transformed. 
His  words  are,  u  But  Lot’s  wife  continually  turning  back  to  view  the  city 
as  she  went  from  it,  and  being  too  nicely  inquisitive  what  would  become 
of  it,  although  God  had  forbidden  her  so  to  do,  was  changed  into  a  pillar 
of  salt,  for  I  have  seen  it,  and  it  remains  at  this  day.” — 1  Josephus'  Antiq ., 
book  1,  chap.  12. 

Clement  of  Rome,  a  contemporary  of  Josephus,  also  mentions  this  pillar, 
and  likewise  Irenaeus,  a  writer  of  the  second  century,  who,  yet  more  su¬ 
perstitious  than  the  other  two,  adds  the  hypothesis,  how  it  came  to  last  so 
long  with  all  its  members  entire.  Reland  relates  an  old  tradition  that  as 
fast  as  any  part  of  this  pillar  was  washed  away,  it  was  supernaturally 
renewed. 


* 


■ 

•  ' 


V  1 

•  *  A  '  . 


■ 

,  >  ;  - 


■  ,  •  ' 


A  MUDDY  SHORE. 


309 


Usdum  appeared  in  the  form  of  spicuhe.  At  11.07,  came 
to  the  cave  in  Usdum  described  by  Dr.  Robinson;  kept 
on,  to  take  meridian  observation  at  the  extreme  south  end 
of  the  sea.  11.28,  unable  to  proceed  any  further  south 
from  shallowness  of  the  water,  having  run  into  six  inches, 
and  the  boats’  keels  stirring  up  the  mud.  The  Fanny 
Skinner  having  less  draught,  was  able  to  get  a  little  nearer 
to  the  shore,  but  grounded  300  yards  off.  Mr.  Dale  landed 
to  observe  for  the  latitude.  His  feet  sank  first  through  a 
layer  of  slimy  mud  a  foot  deep,  then  through  a  crust  of 
salt,  and  then  another  foot  of  mud,  before  reaching  a  firm 
bottom.  The  beach  was  so  hot  as  to  blister  the  feet. 
From  the  water’s  edge,  he  made  his  way  with  difficulty 
for  more  than  a  hundred  yards  over  black  mud,  coated 
with  salt  and  bitumen. 

Unfortunately,  from  the  great  depth  of  this  chasm,  and 
the  approach  of  the  sun  towards  the  tropic  of  Cancer,  the 
sextant  (one  of  Gambey’s  best)  would  not  measure  the 
altitude  with  an  artificial  horizon,  and  there  was  not  suffi¬ 
cient  natural  horizon  for  the  measurement.  We  therefore 
took  magnetic  bearings  in  every  direction,  which,  with 
observations  of  Polaris,  would  be  equally  correct,  but 
more  laborious.  We  particularly  noted  the  geographical 
position  of  the  south  end  of  Usdum,  which  was  now  a  little 
south  of  the  southern  end  of  the  sea.  The  latter  is  ever- 
varying,  extending  south  from  the  increased  flow  of  the 
Jordan  and  the  efflux  of  the  torrents  in  winter,  and 
receding  with  the  rapid  evaporation,  consequent  upon  the 
heat  of  summer. 

In  returning  to  the  boat,  one  of  the  men  attempted  to 
carry  Mr.  Dale  to  the  water,  but  sunk  down,  and  they 
were  obliged  separately  to  flounder  through.  When  they 
could,  they  ran  for  it.  They  describe  it  as  like  running 
over  burning  ashes, — the  perspiration  starting  from  every 
pore  with  the  heat.  It  was  a  delightful  sensation  when 


310 


A  MUDDY  BOTTOM. 


their  feet  touched  the  water,  even  the  salt,  slimy  water 
of  the  sea,  then  at  the  temperature  of  88°. 

The  southern  shore  presented  a  mud-flat,  which  is  ter¬ 
minated  by  the  high  hills  bounding  the  Ghor  to  the 
southward.  A  very  extensive  plain  or  delta,  low  and 
marshy  towards  the  sea,  but  rising  gently,  and,  farther 
hack,  covered  with  luxuriant  green,  is  the  outlet  of  W ady 
es  Safieh  (clear  ravine),  bearing  S.  E.  by  S.  Anxious  to 
examine  it,  we  coasted  along,  just  keeping  the  boat  afloat, 
the  in-shore  oars  stirring  up  the  mud.  The  shore  was 
full  three-fourths  of  a  mile  distant,  the  line  of  demarca¬ 
tion  scarce  perceptible,  from  the  stillness  of  the  water,  and 
the  smooth,  shining  surface  of  the  marsh.  On  the  flat 
beyond,  were  lines  of  drift-wood,  and  here  and  there,  in 
the  shallow  water,  branches  of  dead  trees,  which,  like 
those  at  the  peninsula,  were  coated  with  saline  incrusta¬ 
tion.  The  bottom  was  so  very  soft,  that  it  yielded  to 
everything,  and  at  each  cast  the  sounding-lead  sank  deep 
into  the  mud.  Thermometer,  95°.  Threw  the  drag 
over,  hut  it  brought  up  nothing  but  soft,  marshy,  light 
coloured  mud. 

It  was  indeed  a  scene  of  unmitigated  desolation.  On 
one  side,  rugged  and  worn,  was  the  salt  mountain  of 
Usdum,  with  its  conspicuous  pillar,  which  reminded  us  at 
least  of  the  catastrophe  of  the  plain ;  on  the  other  were 
the  lofty  and  barren  cliffs  of  Moab,  in  one  of  the  caves  of 
which  the  fugitive  Lot  found  shelter.  To  the  south  was 
an  extensive  flat  intersected  by  sluggish  drains,  with  the 
high  hills  of  Edom  semi-girdling  the  salt  plain  where  the 
Israelites  repeatedly  overthrew  their  enemies ;  and  to  the 
north  was  the  calm  and  motionless  sea,  curtained  with  a 
purple  mist,  while  many  fathoms  deep  in  the  slimy  mud 
beneath  it  lay  embedded  the  ruins  of  the  ill-fated  cities 
of  Sodom  and  Gomorrah.  The  glare  of  light  was  blinding 
to  the  eye,  and  the  atmosphere  difficult  of  respiration. 


1 


LOFTY  HILLS. 


311 


No  bird  fanned  with  its  wing  the  attenuated  air  through 
which  the  sun  poured  his  scorching  rays  upon  the  myste¬ 
rious  element  on  which  we  floated,  and  which,  alone,  of 
all  the  works  of  its  Maker,  contains  no  living  thing  with¬ 
in  it. 

While  in  full  view  of  the  peninsula,  I  named  its  north¬ 
ern  extremity  “  Point  Costigan,”  and  its  southern  one 
“  Point  Molyneaux,”  as  a  tribute  to  the  memories  of  the 
two  gallant  Englishmen  who  lost  their  lives  in  attempt¬ 
ing  to  explore  this  sea. 

At  11.42,  much  frothy  scum ;  picked  up  a  dead  bird 
resembling  a  quail ;  sounding  every  five  minutes,  depth 
increasing  to  four  feet,  bottom  a  little  firmer  •  the  only 
ford  must  be  about  here. 

At  12.21,  there  was  a  very  loud,  reverberating  report, 
as  of  startling  thunder,  and  a  cloud  of  smoke  and  dust  on 
the  western  shore ;  most  probably  a  huge  rock  falling 
from  a  high  cliff. 

At  2.35  P.  M.,  close  in  with  the  eastern  shore,  but  un¬ 
able  to  land  from  the  soft  bottom  and  shoalness  of  the 
water.  At  2.50,  a  light  breeze  from  W.  N.  W. ;  hauled 
to  the  north  towards  the  base  of  the  peninsula.  A  long, 
narrow,  dry  marsh,  with  a  few  scrubby  bushes,  separated 
the  water  from  a  range  of  stupendous  hills,  2000  feet  high. 
The  cliff  of  En  Nuweireh  (Little  Tiger),  lofty  and  grand, 
towered  above  us  in  horizontal  strata  of  brown  limestone, 
and  beautiful  rose-coloured  sandstone  beneath.  Clouds 
in  the  east,  nimbus,  seemed  to  be  threatening  a  gust.  At 
3.30,  steered  N.  N.  E.  along  a  low  marshy  flat,  in  shallow 
water.  The  light  wind  had  subsided,  and  it  was  oppres¬ 
sively  hot;  air  97°;  water  twelve  inches  below  the  sur¬ 
face  90°.  A  thin  purple  haze  over  the  mountains,  in¬ 
creasing  every  moment,  and  presenting  a  most  singular 
and  awful  appearance  ;  the  haze  so  thin  that  it  was  trans¬ 
parent,  and  rather  a  blush  than  a  distinct  colour.  I 


312 


ANOTHER  SIROCCO. 


apprehended  a  thunder-gust  or  an  earthquake,  and  took 
in  the  sail.  At  3.50,  a  hot,  blistering  hurricane  struck 
us  from  the  south-east,  and  for  some  moments  we  feared 
being  driven  out  to  sea.  The  thermometer  rose  immedi¬ 
ately  to  102°.  The  men,  closing  their  eyes  to  shield  them 
from  the  fiery  blast,  were  obliged  to  pull  with  all  their 
might  to  stem  the  rising  waves,  and  at  4.30,  physically 
exhausted,  but  with  grateful  hearts,  we  gained  the  shore. 
My  own  eye-lids  were  blistered  by  the  hot  wind,  being 
unable  to  protect  them,  from  the  necessity  of  steering  the 
boat. 

We  landed  on  the  south  side  of  the  peninsula,  near 
Wady  Humeir,  the  most  desolate  spot  upon  which  we 
had  yet  encamped.  Some  went  up  the  ravine  to  escape 
from  the  stifling  wind ;  others,  driven  back  by  the  glare, 
returned  to  the  boats  and  crouched  under  the  awnings. 
One  mounted  spectacles  to  protect  his  eyes,  but  the  metal 
became  so  heated  that  he  was  obliged  to  remove  them. 
Our  arms  and  the  buttons  on  our  coats  became  almost 
burning  to  the  touch  ;  and  the  inner  folds  of  our  garments 
were  cooler  than  those  exposed  to  the  immediate  contact 
of  the  wind.  We  bivouacked  without  tents,  on  a  dry 
marsh,  a  few  dead  bushes  around  us,  and  some  of  the 
thorny  nubk,  and  a  tree  bearing  a  red  berry  a  short  dis¬ 
tance  inland,  with  low  canes  on  the  margin  of  the  sea. 
A  short  distance  to  the  N.  E.,  on  the  peninsula,  we  found 
fragments  of  an  immense  and  very  old  mill-stone.  The 
mill  had,  doubtless,  been  turned  by  a  canal  from  the 
ravine,  down  which  the  water  must  flow  copiously  in  the 
rainy  season. 

At  5,  finding  the  heat  intolerable,  we  walked  up  the 
dry  torrent  bed  in  search  of  water.  Found  two  successive 
pools  rather  than  a  stream,  with  some  minnows  in  them ; 
the  water,  not  yet  stagnant,  flowing  from  the  upper  to 
the  lower  pool.  There  were  some  succulent  plants  on 


EFFECTS  OF  THE  HOT  WIND.  313 

their  margins,  and  fern  roots,  and  a  few  bushes  around 
them.  There  were  huge  boulders  of  sandstone  in  the 
bed  of  the  ravine  ;  a  dead  palm-tree  near  the  largest  pool, 
a  living  one  in  a  cleft  of  the  rock  at  the  head  of  the  gorge ; 
and  high  up,  to  the  summits  of  the  beetling  cliffs,  the 
sandstone  lay  in  horizontal  strata,  with  perpendicular 
cleavage,  and  limestone  above,  its  light  brown  colour 
richly  contrasting  with  the  deep  red  below. 

The  sandstone  below  limestone  here,  and  limestone 
without  sandstone  on  the  opposite  shore,  would  seem  to 
indicate  a  geological  fault. 

Washed  and  bathed  in  one  of  the  pools,  but  the  relief 
was  only  momentary.  In  one  instant  after  leaving  the 
water,  the  moisture  on  the  surface  evaporated,  and  left 
the  skin  dry,  parched,  and  stiff.  Except  the  minnows  in 
the  pool,  there  was  not  a  living  thing  stirring ;  but  the 
hot  wind  swept  moaning  through  the  branches  of  the 
withered  palm-tree,*  and  every  bird  and  insect,  if  any 
there  were,  had  sought  shelter  under  the  rocks. 

Coming  out  from  the  ravine,  the  sight  was  a  singular 
one.  The  wind  had  increased  to  a  tempest ;  the  two  ex¬ 
tremities  and  the  western  shore  of  the  sea  were  curtained 
by  a  mist,  on  this  side  of  a  purple  hue,  on  the  other  a 
yellow  tinge  ;  and  the  red  and  rayless  sun,  in  the  bronzed 
clouds,  had  the  appearance  it  presents  when  looked  upon 
through  smoked  glass.  Thus  may  the  heavens  have  ap¬ 
peared  just  before  the  Almighty  in  his  wrath  rained  down 
fire  upon  the  cities  of  the  plain.  Behind  were  the  rugged 
crags  of  the  mountains  of  Moab,  the  land  of  incest,  envel¬ 
oped  in  a  cloud  of  dust,  swept  by  the  simoom  from  the 
great  desert  of  Arabia. 

There  was  a  smoke  on  the  peninsula,  a  little  to  the 
north  of  us.  We  knew  not  whether  those  who  made  it 


27 


*  The  date-palm. 


f 


1 


314  WELL-FORMED  ARABS. 

might  prove  friends  or  foes ;  and  therefore  that  little 
smoke  was  not  to  be  disregarded.  We  had  brought  one 
of  the  Ta’amirah  with  us,  for  the  express  purpose  of  com¬ 
municating  with  the  natives,  but  he  was  so  fearful  of 
their  hostility  that  I  could  not  prevail  on  him  to  bear  a 
message  to  them.  With  his  back  to  the  wind,  and  his 
eyes  fixed  on  the  streaming  smoke,  he  had  squatted  him¬ 
self  down  a  short  distance  from  us.  He  thought  that  we 
would  be  attacked  in  the  night ;  I  felt  sure  that  we  would 
not,  if  we  were  vigilant.  These  people  never  attack  each 
other  but  at  advantage,  and  fifteen  well-armed  Franks 
can,  in  that  region,  bid  defiance  to  anything  but  surprise. 

We  have  not  seen  an  instance  of  deformity  among  the 
Arab  tribes.  This  man  was  magnificently  formed,  and 
when  he  walked  it  was  with  the  port  and  presence  of  a 
king.  It  has  been  remarked  that  races  with  highly 
coloured  skins  are  rarely  deformed;  and  the  exemption  is 
attributed,  perhaps  erroneously,  not  to  a  mode  of  life  dif¬ 
fering  from  that  of  a  civilized  one,  but  to  hereditary 
organization. 

The  sky  grew  more  angry  as  the  day  declined ; — 

u  The  setting  orb  in  crimson  seems  to  mourn, 

Denouncing  greater  woes  at  his  return, 

And  adds  new  horrors  to  the  present  doom 
By  certain  fear  of  evils  yet  to  come.” 

The  heat  rather  increased  than  lessened  after  the  sun 
went  down.  At  8  P.  M.,  the  thermometer  was  106°  five 
feet  from  the  ground.  At  one  foot  from  the  latter  it  was 
104°.  We  threw  ourselves  upon  the  parched,  cracked 
earth,  among  dry  stalks  and  canes,  which  would  before 
have  seemed  insupportable  from  the  heat.  Some  endea¬ 
voured  to  make  a  screen  of  one  of  the  boats’  awnings,  but 
the  fierce  wind  swept  it  over  in  an  instant.  It  was  more 
like  the  blast  of  a  furnace  than  living  air.  At  our  feet 
was  the  sea,  and  on  our  right,  through  the  thicket,  we 


V 


A.  T  A'AMIRAH, 


' 

• 


■ 

. 


. 


HEAT  AND  THIRST.  315 

could  distinguish  the  gleaming  of  the  fires  and  hear  the 
shouts  from  an  Arab  encampment. 

In  the  early  part  of  the  night,  there  was  scarce  a  mo¬ 
ment  that  some  one  was  not  at  the  water-breakers ;  but 
the  parching  thirst  could  not  be  allayed,  for,  although 
there  was  no  perceptible  perspiration,  the  fluid  was  car¬ 
ried  off  as  fast  as  it  was  received  into  the  system.  At  9, 
the  breakers  were  exhausted,  and  our  last  waking  thought 
was  water.  In  our  disturbed  and  feverish  slumbers,  we 
fancied  the  cool  beverage  purling  down  our  parched  and 
burning  throats.  The  mosquitoes,  as  if  their  stings  were 
envenomed  by  the  heat,  tormented  us  almost  to  madness, 
and  wre  spent  a  miserable  night,  throughout  which  we 
were  compelled  to  lie  encumbered  with  our  arms,  wdiile, 
by  turns,  we  kept  vigilant  watch. 

We  had  spent  the  day  in  the  glare  of  a  Syrian  sun,  by 
the  salt  mountain  of  Usdum,  in  the  hot  blast  of  the 
sirocco,  and  were  now  bivouacked  under  the  calcined 
cliffs  of  Moab.  When  the  water  was  exhausted,  all  too 
weary  to  go  for  more,  even  if  there  were  no  danger  of  a 
surprise,  we  threw  ourselves  upon  the  ground,  —  eyes 
smarting,  skin  burning,  lips,  and  tongue,  and  throat 
parched  and  dry ;  and  wrapped  the  first  garment  we  could 
find  around  our  heads  to  keep  off  the  stifling  blast;  and,  in 
our  brief  and  broken  slumbers,  drank  from  ideal  fountains. 

Those  who  have  never  felt  thirst,  never  suffered  in  a 
simoom  in  the  wilderness,  or  been  far  off  at  sea,  with 

“Water,  water  everywhere, 

Nor  any  drop  to  drink,” 

can  form  no  idea  of  our  sensations.  They  are  best  illus¬ 
trated  by  the  exclamation  of  the  victim  in  Dante’s  Inferno. 

“The  little  rills  which  down  the  grassy  side 
Of  Casentino  flow  to  Arno’s  stream, 

Filling  their  banks  with  verdure  as  they  glide, 

Are  ever  in  my  view ;  —  no  idle  dream  — 


316 


THE  HEAT  ABATES. 


For  more  that  vision  parches,  makes  me  weak, 

Than  that  disease,  which  wastes  my  pallid  cheek.” 

Our  thoughts  could  not  revert  to  home  save  in  con¬ 
nexion  with  the  precious  element ;  and  many  were  the 
imaginary  speeches  we  made  to  visionary  common  coun¬ 
cils  against  ideal  water-carts,  which  went  about  unsub¬ 
stantial  city  streets,  spouting  the  glorious  liquid  in  the 
very  wastefulness  of  abundance,  every  drop  of  which 
seemed  priceless  pearls,  as  we  lay  on  the  shore  of  the 
Dead  Sea,  in  the  feverish  sleep  of  thirst. 

The  poor,  affrighted  Arab  slept  not  a  wink; — for, 
repeatedly,  when  I  went  out,  as  was  my  custom,  to  see 
that  all  was  quiet  and  the  sentries  on  the  alert,  he  was 
ever  in  the  same  place,  looking  in  the  same  direction. 

At  midnight  the  thermometer  stood  at  98°;  shortly 
after  which  the  wind  shifted  and  blew  lightly  from  the 
north.  At  4  A.  M.,  thermometer,  82° ;  comparatively 
cool. 

Thursday,  April  27.  The  first  thing  on  waking,  at  day¬ 
break,  I  saw  a  large,  black  bird,  high  overhead,  floating 
between  us  and  the  mottled  sky.  Shortly  after,  a  large 
hock  of  birds  flew  along  the  shore,  and  a  number  of  storks 
were  noiselessly  winging  their  way  in  the  gray  and  indis¬ 
tinct  light  of  the  early  morning.  Calm  and  warm ; — 
went  up  and  bathed  in  the  ravine.  There  were  voices  in 
the  cliffs  overhead,  and  shortly  after  there  was  the  report 
of  a  gun,  the  reverberating  echoes  of  which  were  distinctly 
heard  at  the  camp.  As  I  had  come  unattended,  the  officers 
were  alarmed,  and  some  came  to  look  for  me.  Our  Arab 
was  exceedingly  nervous.  The  gun  was  doubtless  a  signal 
from  a  look-out  on  the  cliff  to  his  friends  inland,  for  these 
people  live  in  a  constant  state  of  civil  warfare,  and  station 
sentinels  on  elevated  points  to  give  notice  of  a  hostile 
approach.  I  thought  that  we  inspired  them  with  more 
fear  than  they  did  us.  Heard  a  partridge  up  in  the  cliffs, 


A  MENACED  ATTACK.  317 

and  saw  a  dove  and  a  beautiful  humming-bird  in  the 
ravine. 

There  were  some  fellahas  (female  fellahin)  on  a  plain 
to  the  northward  of  us.  They  allowed  Mustafa  to  ap¬ 
proach  within  speaking  distance,  but  no  nearer.  They 
asked  who  we  were,  how  and  why  we  came,  and  why  we 
did  not  go  away.  About  an  hour  after,  some  thirty  or 
forty  fellahin,  the  sheikh  armed  with  a  sword,  the  rest 
with  indifferent  guns,  lances,  clubs,  and  branches  of  trees, 
came  towards  us,  singing  the  song  of  their  tribe.  I  drew 
our  party  up,  the  blunderbuss  in  front,  and,  with  the 
interpreter,  advanced  to  meet  them.  When  they  came 
near,  I  drew  a  line  upon  the  ground,  and  told  them  that 
if  they  passed  it  they  would  be  fired  upon.  There¬ 
upon,  they  squatted  down,  to  hold  a  palaver.  They 
belonged  to  the  Ghaurariyeh,  and  were  as  ragged,  filthy, 
and  physically  weak,  as  the  tribe  of  Kashayideh,  on  the 
western  shore.  Finding  us  too  strong  for  a  demand, 
they  began  to  beg  for  backshish.  We  gave  them  some 
food  to  eat,  for  they  looked  famished ;  also  a  little 
tobacco  and  a  small  gratuity,  to  bear  a  letter  to  ’Akil, 
(who  must  soon  be  in  Kerak,)  appointing  when  and 
where  to  have  a  look-out  for  us. 

Before  starting,  we  took  observations,  and  angled  in 
every  direction.  Not  far  from  us  must  be  the  site  of 
Zoar ;  and  on  some  of  these  mountains  Lot  dwelt  with 
his  two  daughters.  This  country  is  called  Moab,  after 
the  son  of  the  eldest  daughter.  Moab  means  one  begotten 
by  a  father. 

At  8.45,  started;  sky  cloudless,  a  light  air  from  the 
west;  thermometer,  94°.  The  Arabs  gathered  on  the 
shore  to  see  us  depart,  earnestly  asking  Mustafa  how  the 
boats  could  move  without  legs;  he  bade  them  wait 
awhile,  and  they  would  see  very  long  legs.  The  Fanny 
Mason  sounded  directly  across  to  the  western  shore ;  the 
27* 


318 


A  SALT  BROOK. 


casts,  taken  at  short  intervals,  varying  from  one  and 
three-quarters  to  two  and  a  quarter  fathoms ;  bottom, 
light  and  dark  mud.  Threw  the  patent  log  over ;  tem¬ 
perature  of  the  air,  95°;  of  the  water,  85°. 

This  shallow  bay  is  mentioned  in  J oshua,  xv.  2.  Every¬ 
thing  said  in  the  Bible  about  the  sea  and  the  Jordan,  we 
believe  to  be  fully  verified  by  our  observations. 

At  11.20,  picked  up  a  dead  quail,  which  had  probably 
perished  in  attempting  to  fly  over  the  sea;  perhaps  caught 
in  last  night’s  sirocco.  At  11.28,  there  were  appearances 
of  sand-spits  on  the  surface  of  the  sea,  doubtless  the 
optical  delusion  which  has  so  often  led  travellers  to  mis¬ 
take  them  for  islands.  11.30,  sent  the  Fanny  Skinner  to 
Point  Molyneaux,  the  south  end  of  the  peninsula,  to  take 
meridian  observation.  12.30,  much  frothy  scum  upon 
the  water.  At  12.52,  landed  at  Wady  Muhariwat  (Sur¬ 
rounded  ravine),  on  the  western  shore,  where  a  shallow 
salt  stream,  formed  by  a  number  of  springs  oozing  from  a 
bank  covered  with  shrubs,  spread  itself  over  a  consider¬ 
able  space,  and  trickled  down  over  the  pebbles  into  the 
sea.  There  were  some  very  small  fish  in  the  stream. 
Thermometer,  96°. 

At  1.15  P.  M.,  started  again,  and  steered  parallel  with 
the  western  shore.  Keeping  about  one-tliird  the  distance 
between  the  western  shore  and  the  peninsula,  the  sound¬ 
ings  ranged  steadily  at  two  and  a  quarter  fathoms ;  first 
part  light,  the  second  part  dark  mud.  At  3.05,  a  very 
singular  swell  from  north-west,  —  an  undulation,  rather ; 
for  the  waves  were  glassy,  with  an  unbroken  surface,  and 
there  was  not  air  enough  stirring  to  move  the  gossamer 
curls  of  a  sleeping  infant.  We  knew  well  of  what  it  was 
the  precursor,  and  immediately  steered  for  the  land.  We 
had  scarcely  rowed  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  the  men  pulling 
vigorously  to  reach  the  shelter  of  the  cliffs,  when  we  were 
struck  by  a  violent  gust  of  hot  wind,  —  another  sirocco. 


' 


SCANTY  PROVISIONS. 


319 


The  surface  of  the  water  became  instantly  ruffled ;  chang¬ 
ing  in  five  minutes  from  a  slow,  sluggish,  unbroken  swell, 
to  an  angry  and  foaming  sea. 

With  eyes  smarting  from  the  spray,  we  buffeted  against 
it  for  upwards  of  an  hour,  when  the  wind  abruptly  sub¬ 
sided,  and  the  sea  as  rapidly  became  smooth  and  rippling. 
The  gust  was  from  the  north-west.  The  wind  afterwards 
became  light  and  baffling, — at  one  moment  fair,  the  next 
directly  ahead ;  the  smooth  surface  of  the  water  unbroken, 
except  a  light  ruffle  here  and  there,  as  swept  by  the 
flickering  airs. 

At  4.15  P.  M.,  stopped  for  the  night  in  a  spacious  bay,  on 
a  fine  pebbly  beach,  at  the  foot  of  Rubtat  el  J amus  (Tying 
of  the  Buffalo).  It  was  a  desolate-looking,  verdureless 
range  above  us.  There  was  no  water  to  be  found,  and 
our  provisions  were  becoming  scarce ;  we  made  a  scanty 
supper,  but  had  the  luxury  of  a  bed  of  pebbles,  which, 
although  hard  and  coarse,  was  far  preferable  to  the  mud 
and  dust  of  our  last  sleeping-place.  We  hoped,  too,  to 
have  but  a  reasonable  number  of  insect-bedfellows. 

Mr.  Dale  described  the  extreme  point  of  the  peninsula 
upon  which  he  landed  as  a  low  flat,  covered  with  incrus¬ 
tations  of  salt  and  carbonate  of  lime.  It  was  the  point 
of  the  margin :  there  was  a  corresponding  point  to  the 
high  land,  which  is  thinly  laminated  with  salt.  They 
picked  up  some  small  pieces  of  pure  sulphur.  In  a  cave, 
he  saw  tracks  of  a  panther.  After  leaving  the  point,  he 
saw  a  small  flock  of  ducks  and  a  heron,  which  were  too 
shy  to  permit  a  near  approach. 

Before  retiring,  our  Arabs,  who  had  gone  for  hours  in 
a  fruitless  search  for  water,  returned  with  some  dhom 
apples  (fruit  of  the  niibk),  which  amazingly  helped  out 
the  supper. 

I  do  not  know  what  we  should  have  done  without  these 
Arabs ;  they  brought  us  food  when  we  were  nearly  fam- 


320 


REFRACTION. 


islied,  and  water  when  parched  with  thirst.  They  acted 
as  guides  and  messengers,  and  in  our  absence  faithfully 
guarded  the  camp.  A  decided  course  tempered  with 
courtes}^  wins  at  once  their  respect  and  good  will.  Al¬ 
though  they  are  an  impetuous  race,  not  an  angry  word 
had  thus  far  passed  between  us.  With  the  blessing  of 
God,  I  hoped  to  preserve  the  existing  harmony  to  the  last. 

Took  observations  of  Polaris.  The  north-west  wind, 
hot  and  unrefreshing,  sprang  up  at  8  P.  M.,  and  blew 
through  the  night.  At  10,  thermometer  84° ;  at  mid¬ 
night,  82°. 

Friday,  April  28.  Called  all  hands  at  5.30  A.  M. ;  light 
airs  from  N.  E.,  sky  clouded,  cirro-cumulus.  Breakfasted 
a  la  hate  on  a  small  cup  of  coffee  each,  and  started  at 
5.58.  If  the  wind  should  spring  up  fair,  we  purposed  sail¬ 
ing  over  to  the  Arnon ;  in  the  mean  time  we  coasted 
along  the  shore  towards  Ain  Jidy,  for  the  water  was  ex¬ 
hausted,  and  we  must  make  for  the  camp  if  a  calm  or  a 
head  wind  should  prevail.  At  7.30,  the  wind  freshened  up 
from  N.  E.  A  little  north  of  Sebbeh  we  passed  a  long,  low, 
gravelly  island,  left  uncovered  by  the  retrocession  of  the 
water.  A  great  refraction  of  the  atmosphere.  The 
Fanny  Skinner,  round  the  point,  seemed  elevated  above  it. 
Her  whole  frame,  from  the  surface  of  the  water,  was  dis¬ 
tinctly  visible,  although  the  land  intervened.  At  12, 
wind  fresh,  air  87°,  water  82°.  Our  compass  glass  was 
incrusted  with  salt. 

Notwithstanding  the  high  wind,  the  tendency  to  drow¬ 
siness  was  almost  irresistible.  The  men  pulled  mechani¬ 
cally,  with  half-closed  lids,  and,  except  them  and  myself, 
every  one  in  the  copper  boat  was  fast  asleep.  The  neces¬ 
sity  of  steering  and  observing  all  that  transpired,  alone 
kept  me  awake.  The  drowsy  sensation,  amounting  almost 
to  stupor,  was  greatest  in  the  heat  of  the  day,  but  did  not 
disappear  at  night.  In  the  experience  of  all,  two  hours’ 


INTELLIGENCE  FROM  HOME.  321 

watch  here  seemed  longer  than  double  the  period  else¬ 
where.  At  1.30  P.  M.,  nearly  up  with  Ain  Jidy ;  the  white 
tents  of  the  camp,  the  line  of  green,  and  the  far-off  foun¬ 
tain,  speaking  of  shade,  refreshment,  and  repose.  A  camel 
was  lying  on  the  shore,  and  two  Arabs  a  little  beyond. 
Discerning  us,  the  latter  rose  quickly  and  came  towards 
the  landing,  shouting,  singing,  and  making  wild  gesticu¬ 
lations,  and  one  of  them  stooped  and  picked  up  a  handful 
of  earth  and  put  it  upon  his  head.  Here  the  Sherif  met 
us  with  a  delight  too  simple-hearted  in  its  expression  to 
be  insincere.  The  old  man  had  been  exceedingly  anxious 
for  our  safety,  and  seemed  truly  overjoyed  at  our  return. 
We  were  also  much  gratified  to  find  that  he  had  been 
unmolested. 

One  of  the  Arabs  whom  we  sent  back  from  Usdum  fell 
fainting  on  his  return,  and  nearly  famished  for  want  of 
water.  His  companions,  suffering  from  the  same  cause, 
were  compelled  to  leave  him  on  the  parched  and  arid 
shore  and  hasten  forward  to  save  themselves.  Fortunately 
there  was  a  messenger  in  the  camp,  who  had  come  on 
horseback  from  Jerusalem,  and  Sherif  was  enabled  to 
send  water  forthwith,  and  have  the  poor  man  brought  to 
the  tents. 

Found  letters  awaiting  us  from  Beirut,  forwarded  ex¬ 
press  from  Jerusalem.  Our  consul  at  the  former  place 
announced  the  death  of  John  Quincy  Adams,  Ex-Presi¬ 
dent  of  the  U.  States,  and  sent  an  extract  from  a  Malta 
paper  containing  the  annunciation.  These  were  the  first 
tidings  we  had  received  from  the  outer  world,  and  their 
burthen  was  a  sad  one.  But  on  that  sea  the  thought  of 
death  harmonized  with  the  atmosphere  and  the  scenery, 
and  when  echo  spoke  of  it,  where  all  else  was  desolation 
and  decay,  it  was  hard  to  divest  ourselves  of  the  idea 
that  there  was  nothing  but  death  in  the  world,  and  we 
the  only  living: — 


y 


322  TIDINGS  FROM  EUROPE. 

u  Death  is  here,  and  death  is  there, 

Death  is  busy  everywhere.” 

We  lowered  tlie  flag  half-mast,  and  there  was  a  gloom 
throughout  the  camp. 

Among  the  letters,  I  received  one  from  the  Mushir  of 
Saida.  After  many  compliments,  he  promised  to  repri¬ 
mand  Said  Bey  for  the  grasping  spirit  he  had  evinced, 
and  authorized  our  ally,  ’Aldl,  to  remain  with  us  as  long 
as  we  might  desire. 

The  very  friendly  letter  of  Mr.  Chasseaud  contained 
startling  news  from  Europe.  The  great  Being  who  wisely 
rules  over  all,  is  doubtless  punishing  the  nations  for  their 
sins ;  but,  as  His  justice  is  ever  tempered  with  mercy,  I 
have  not  the  smallest  doubt  that  when  the  ordeal  is 
passed,  the  result  will  be  beneficial  to  the  human  race. 
The  time  is  coming  —  the  beginning  is  even  now — when 
the  whole  worthless  tribe  of  kings,  with  all  their  myrmi¬ 
dons,  will  be  swept  from  their  places  and  made  to  bear  a 
part  in  the  toils  and  sufferings  of  the  great  human  family; 
— when,  not  in  theory  only,  but  in  fact,  every  man  will 
be  free  and  all  men  politically  equal ;  —  then,  this  world 
will  be  a  happy  one,  for  liberty,  rightly  enjoyed,  brings 
every  blessing  with  it. 

In  the  evening  we  walked  up  the  ravine  to  bathe.  It 
was  a  toilsome  walk  over  the  rough  debris  brought  down 
by  the  winter  rains.  A  short  distance  up,  we  were  sur¬ 
prised  to  see  evidences  of  former  habitations  in  the  rocks. 
Roughly  hewn  caverns  and  natural  excavations  we  had 
frequently  observed,  but  none  before  evincing  so  much  art. 
Some  of  the  apertures  were  arched  and  cased  with  sills 
of  limestone  resembling  an  inferior  kind  of  marble.  We 
were  at  a  loss  how  to  obtain  an  entrance,  for  they  were 
cut  in  the  perpendicular  face  of  the  rock,  and  the  lowest 
more  than  fifty  feet  from  the  bed  of  the  ravine.  We 
stopped  to  plan  some  mode  of  gaining  an  entrance  to  one 


A  N  EGER I AN  FOUNTAIN.  323 

of  them ;  but  the  sound  of  the  running  stream,  and  the 
cool  shadow  of  the  gorge  were  too  inviting,  and  advancing 
through  tamarisk,  oleander,  and  cane,  we  came  upon  the 
very  Egeria  of  fountains.  Far  in  among  the  cane,  em¬ 
bowered,  imbedded,  hidden  deep  in  the  shadow  of  the 
purple  rocks  and  the  soft  green  gloom  of  luxuriant  vege¬ 
tation,  lapsing  with  a  gentle  murmur  from  basin  to  basin, 
over  the  rocks,  under  the  rocks,  by  the  rocks,  and  clasp¬ 
ing  the  rocks  with  its  crystal  arms,  was  this  little 
fountain-wonder.  The  thorny  niibk  and  the  pliant  osher 
were  on  the  bank  above ;  yet  lower,  the  oleander  and  the 
tamarisk ;  while  upon  its  brink  the  lofty  cane,  bent  by 
the  weight  of  its  fringe-like  tassels,  formed  bowers  over 
the  stream  fit  for  the  haunts  of  Naiads.  Diana  herself 
could  not  have  desired  a  more  secluded  bath  than  each  of 
us  took  in  a  separate  basin. 

This,  more  probably  than  the  fountain  of  Ain  Jiddy 
(Engaddi),  high  up  the  mountain,  may  be  regarded  as 
the  realization  of  the  poet’s  dream — the  genuine  “  diamond 
of  the  desert”  —  and  in  one  of  the  vaulted  caves  above, 
the  imagination  can  dwell  upon  the  night  procession, 
Edith  Plantagenet,  and  the  flower  dropped  in  hesitation 
and  picked  up  with  avidity  ;  the  pure,  disinterested  aspi¬ 
rations  of  the  Crusader,  the  licentious  thoughts  of  the 
Saracen,  and  the  wild,  impracticable  visions  of  the  saintly 
enthusiast.  One  of  those  caverns  too,  since  fashioned  by 
the  hand  of  man,  may  have  been  the  veritable  cave  of 
“  Adullam,”  for  this  is  the  wilderness  of  Engaddi  A  Here 
too  may  have  been  the  dwellings  of  the  Essenes,  in  the 
early  days  of  Christianity,  and  subsequently  of  hermits, 
when  Palestine  was  under  Christian  sway.  Our  Arabs 
say  that  these  caves  have  been  here  from  time  immemo- 


*  u  And  David  went  up  from  thence,  and  dwelt  in  strong  holds  at  En¬ 
gaddi.” — 1  Samuel,  xxiii.  29. 


324  UNWONTED  ENJOYMENT. 

rial,  and  that  many  years  ago  some  of  the  tribe  succeeded 
in  entering  one  of  them,  and  found  vast  chambers  exca¬ 
vated  in  the  rock.  They  may  have  been  the  cells  where 
“  gibbered  and  moaned”  the  hermit  of  Engaddi. 

Having  bathed,  we  returned  much  refreshed  to  the 
camp.  The  messenger  had  brought  sugar  and  lemons, 
and,  with  abundance  of  water,  we  had  lemonade  and  cof¬ 
fee  ;  and,  sheltered  from  the  sun,  with  the  wind  blowing 
through  the  tent,  we  revelled  in  enjoyment.  This  place, 
which  at  first  seemed  so  dreary,  had  now  become  almost 
a  paradise  by  contrast.  The  breeze  blew  freshly,  but  it 
was  so  welcome  a  guest,  after  the  torrid  atmosphere  of 
noon,  that  we  even  let  it  tear  up  the  tent  stakes,  and 
knock  the  whole  apparatus  about  our  ears,  with  a  kind 
of  indulgent  fondness,  rather  disposed  to  see  something 
amusing  in  the  flutter  among  the  half-dried  linen  on  the 
thorn-bushes.  This  reckless  disregard  of  our  personal 
property  bore  ample  testimony  to  our  welcome  greeting 
of  the  wind. 

At  one  time,  to-day,  the  sea  assumed  an  aspect  pecu¬ 
liarly  sombre.  Unstirred  by  the  wind,  it  lay  smooth  and 
unruffled  as  an  inland  lake.  The  great  evaporation 
enveloped  it  in  a  thin,  transparent  vapour,  its  purple  tinge 
contrasting  strangely  with  the  extraordinary  colour  of  the 
sea  beneath,  and,  where  they  blended  in  the  distance, 
gave  it  the  appearance  of  smoke  from  burning  sulphur. 
It  seemed  a  vast  cauldron  of  metal,  fused  but  motionless. 

About  sunset,  we  tried  whether  a  horse  and  a  donkey 
could  swim  in  the  sea  without  turning  over.  The  result 
was  that,  although  the  animals  turned  a  little  on  one  side, 
they  did  not  lose  their  balance.  As  Mr.  Stephens  tried 
his  experiment  earlier  in  the  season,  and  nearer  the  north 
end  of  the  sea,  his  horse  could  not  have  turned  over  from 
the  greater  density  of  the  water  there  than  here.  His 
animal  may  have  been  weaker,  or,  at  the  time,  more 


THE  APPLE  OF  SODOM.  325 

exhausted  than  ours.  A  muscular  man  floated  nearly 
breast-high,  without  the  least  exertion. 

Pliny  says  that  some  foolish,  rich  men  of  Rome  had 
water  from  this  sea  conveyed  to  them  to  bathe  in,  under 
the  impression  that  it  possessed  medicinal  qualities. 
Galen  remarked  on  this  that  they  might  have  saved 
themselves  the  trouble,  by  dissolving,  in  fresh  water,  as 
much  salt  as  it  could  hold  in  solution ;  to  which  Reyland 
adds,  that  Galen  was  not  aware  that  the  water  of  the 
Dead  Sea  held  other  things  besides  salt  in  solution. 

We  picked  up  a  large  piece  of  bitumen  on  the  sea-shore 
to-day.  It  was  excessively  hot  to  the  touch.  This  com¬ 
bustible  mineral  is  so  great  a  recipient  of  the  solar  rays, 
that  it  must  soften  in  the  intense  heat  of  summer.  We 
gathered  also  some  of  the  blossoms  and  the  green  and 
dried  fruits  of  the  osher*  for  preservation  with  the  flowers 

*  This  fruit  is  doubtless  the  genuine  apple  of  Sodom,  for  it  is  fair  to  the 
eye  and  bitter  to  the  taste,  and  when  ripe  is  filled  with  fibre  and  dust. 
Four  jars,  containing  specimens,  together  with  a  drawing  of  the  leaf  and 
blossom,  are  placed  in  the  patent-office,  at  Washington. 

We  have  succeeded  in  bringing  safely  home  some  of  the  green  and  the 
dried  fruit,  and  also  the  leaves  and  blossoms  of  the  osher,  put  up  in  spirits 
of  wine. 

u  The  first  notice  taken  of  the  apple  of  Sodom  is  by  Josephus  :  — ‘  Which 
fruits  have  a  colour  as  if  they  were  fit  to  be  eaten ;  but  if  you  pluck  them 
with  your  hands,  they  dissolve  into  smoke  and  ashes.’  They  are  also 
spoken  of  by  Tacitus  : — ‘The  herbage  may  spring  up,  and  the  trees  may 
put  forth  their  blossoms,  they  may  even  attain  the  usual  appearance  of 
maturity,  but  with  this  florid  outside,  all  within  turns  black  and  moulders 
into  dust.’ 

De  Chartres,  who  visited  Palestine  in  1100,  speaks  of  this  fruit,  and  com¬ 
pares  its  deceitful  appearance  to  the  pleasures  of  the  world ;  and  they  are 
also  noticed  by  Baumgarten,  De  la  Valle,  Maundrell,  and  others,  as  having 
a  real  existence ;  but  Pococke  and  Shaw  deride  these  accounts  as  fabulous. 
In  the  last  century,  Amman  describes  them  as  resembling  a  small  apple, 
of  a  beautiful  colour,  and  growing  on  a  shrub  resembling  the  hawthorn. 
Hasselquist,  on  the  contrary,  is  of  opinion  that  it  is  the  fruit  of  the  sola- 
num  melongena,  or  egg-plant.  He  says  that  6  it  is  found  in  great  abun- 
28 


326 


THE  APPLE  OF  SODOM. 


collected  in  the  descent  of  the  Jordan,  and  the  various 
places  we  have  visited  on  this  sea. 

The  dried  fruit,  the  product  of  last  year,  was  extremely 
brittle,  and  crushed  with  the  slightest  pressure.  The 
green,  half-formed  fruit  of  this  year  was  soft  and  elastic 
as  a  puff-ball,  and,  like  the  leaves  and  stem,  yields  a 
viscous,  white,  milky  fluid  when  cut.  Dr.  Robinson  very 
aptly  compared  it  to  the  milk-weed.  This  viscous  fluid 
the  Arabs  call  leben-usher  (osher-milk),  and  they  con¬ 
sider  it  a  cure  for  barrenness.  Dr.  Anderson  was  enthu¬ 
siastic  in  his  searches,  and  although  he  kept  his  regular 

dance  round  Jericho,  in  the  valleys  near  the  Jordan,  and  in  the  neighbour¬ 
hood  of  the  Dead  Sea.  It  is  true  that  these  apples  are  sometimes  full  of 
dust,  but  this  appears  only  when  the  fruit  is  attacked  by  an  insect,  which 
converts  the  whole  of  the  inside  into  dust,  leaving  nothing  but  the  rind 
entire,  without  causing  it  to  lose  any  of  its  colour.’  Linnaeus  thought, 
also,  that  they  wrere  the  fruit  of  a  solanum,  and  named  a  species  having 
large  yellow  berries,  with  black  seeds,  surrounded  by  a  greenish  pulp, 
which  dries  into  a  bitter,  nauseous  powder,  solanum  Sodomeum ;  but  it 
has  been  found  that  this  plant  is  a  native  of  Southern  Africa,  and  not  of 
Palestine. 

Some  waiters,  again,  have  supposed  this  fruit  to  be  the  gall  of  the  tere¬ 
binth,  or  turpentine-tree.  Chateaubriand  speaks  of  it  as  about  the  size  and 
colour  of  a  small  lemon,  which,  before  it  is  ripe,  is  filled  with  a  corrosive 
and  saline  juice,  and  when  dried,  contains  only  numerous  blackish  seeds, 
which  may  be  compared  to  ashes,  and  in  taste  resemble  bitter  pepper.  He 
states  that  they  are  the  product  of  a  thorny  shrub,  having  taper  leaves.  In 
the  travels  of  the  Duke  of  Ragusa  (Marmont),  it  is  spoken  of  much  in  the 
same  terms.  These  descriptions  apply  to  a  species  of  solanum,  and  espe¬ 
cially  to  the  s.  sanctum ,  a  prickly,  shrub-like  plant,  very  common  in 
Palestine. 

Seetzen,  who  does  not  appear  to  have  seen  the  plant,  says,  4 1  saw, 
during  my  stay  at  Kerak,  in  the  house  of  the  Greek  clergyman  of  that 
town,  a  species  of  cotton,  resembling  silk.  This  cotton,  as  he  told  me, 
grows  in  the  plain  of  El  Ghor,  near  the  southern  extremity  of  the  Dead 
Sea,  on  a  tree  like  the  fig-tree,  called  Abesche-iz ;  it  is  found  in  a  fruit 
resembling  the  pomegranate.  It  struck  me  that  this  fruit,  which  has  no 
pulp  or  flesh  in  the  inside,  and  is  unknown  in  the  rest  of  Palestine,  might 
be  the  celebrated  apple  of  Sodom.’ 


A  NORTHERN  BREEZE. 


327 


watch,  was  ever,  when  not  on  post,  hammering  at  the 
rocks.  He  had  already  collected  many  valuable  spe¬ 
cimens. 

Through  the  night,  a  pleasant  breeze  from  the  west. 
Blowing  over  the  wilderness  of  J udea,  it  was  unaccompa¬ 
nied  with  a  nauseous  smell.  Towards  morning,  the  wind 
hauled  to  the  north  and  freshened — strange  that  the  wea¬ 
ther  should  become  warmer  as  the  wind  veered  to  the 
northern  quarter :  but  so  it  was.  Sweeping  along  the 
western  shore,  it  brought  the  foetid  odour  of  the  sul¬ 
phureous  marshes  with  it.  The  Arabs  call  this  sea  Bahr 
Lut  (Sea  of  Lot),  or  Birket  Lut  (Pool  of  Lot). 

This  description  of  Seetzen’s  agrees  very  well  with  the  fruit  described 
as  the  apple  of  Sodom,  which  occurred  in  the  same  place,  and  has  the 
same  silky  or  cotton-like  interior :  but  the  plant  which  produces  it  is  not 
like  the  fig-tree,  nor  is  it  called  Abesche-iz.  Those  we  saw,  in  various 
places  along  the  shores  of  the  Dead  Sea,  resembled  very  closely  the  milk¬ 
weed,  which  is  so  common  in  the  United  States ;  it  is,  in  fact,  a  closely 
allied  plant,  being  the  asclepias  procera  of  the  earlier  writers,  now,  how¬ 
ever,  forming  part  of  the  genus  calotropis.  This  plant  occurs  in  many 
parts  of  the  east,  and  was  known  as  early  as  the  time  of  Theophrastus. 
It  is  figured  and  described  by  Prosper  Alpinus  under  the  name,  birdet  el 
ossar;  but  it  is  now  called,  by  the  Arabs,  oscher ,  or  osher. 

It  is  a  tall,  perennial  plant,  with  thick,  dark-green,  shining,  opposite 
leaves,  on  very  short  foot-stalks;  the  flowers  are  interminal,  and  have 
axillary  umbels  of  a  purple  colour,  succeeded  by  somewhat  globose  pods, 
about  the  size  of  a  large  apple,  containing  numerous  flattened,  brown  seeds, 
each  furnished  with  a  silky  plume  or  pappus.  The  bark,  especially  at  the 
lower  part  of  the  stem,  is  cork-like  and  much  fissured.  If  it  be  cut,  or  a 
leaf  torn  off,  a  viscous,  milky  juice  exudes,  which  is  exceedingly  acrid,  and 
even  caustic,  and  is  said  to  be  used  in  Egypt  as  a  depillatory.  In  Persia, 
this  plant  is  said  to  exude  a  bitter  and  acrid  manna,  owing  to  the  puncture 
of  insects.  Chardin  says  that  it  is  poisonous.  Both  the  plant  and  its  juice 
have  been  used  in  medicine,  and  probably  are  identical  with  the  mudar,  or 
madar,  of  India,  which  has  attracted  so  much  notice  as  a  remedy  for  dis¬ 
eases  of  the  skin.” — Griffith. 


CHAPTER  XV. 


EXCURSION  TO  MASADA. 

Saturday,  April  29.  Awakened  at  daylight  by  one  of 
the  Arabs  calling  the  rest  to  prayer.  The  summons  but 
slightly  heeded.  Despatched  Mr.  Dale,  Dr.  Anderson, 
and  Mr.  Bedlow,  with  the  interpreter,  a  Turkish  soldier, 
and  some  Arab  guides,  to  Sebbeh  (Masada)  ;  they  took 
the  camel  with  them  to  carry  water.  Soon  after  break¬ 
fast,  sent  the  Fanny  Skinner  to  sound  in  a  north  and 
south  line,  between  the  peninsula  and  the  western  shore. 
A  clear,  pleasant  morning;  wind  fresh  from  the  N.  W. 
Experienced  some  difficulty  in  getting  the  boat  through 
the  surf. 

Remained  in  camp  to  write  a  report  of  proceedings  to 
the  Hon.  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  and  to  answer  the  kind 
letters  of  H.  B.  M.  Consul  at  Jerusalem,  and  Mr.  Chas- 
seaud,  U.  S.  Consul  at  Beirut.  Every  thing  quiet ;  and, 
towards  noon,  as  the  wind  subsided,  the  sea  assumed  its 
sombre  and  peculiar  hue. 

At  noon,,  fired  out  at  sea,  in  honour  of  the  illustrious 
dead,  twenty-one  minute-guns  from  the  heavy  blunderbuss 
mounted  on  the  bow  of  the  Fanny  Mason.  The  reports 
reverberated  loudly  and  strangely  amid  the  cavernous 
recesses  of  those  lofty  and  barren  mountains.  This  sea 
is  wondrous,  in  every  sense  of  the  word ;  so  sudden  are 
its  changes,  and  so  different  the  aspects  it  presents,  as  to 
make  it  seem  as  if  we  were  in  a  world  of  enchantment. 

W e  were  alternately  upon  the  brink  and  the  surface  of  a 

(328) 


ARAB  HUMANITY  TO  ANIMALS.  329 

huge,  and  sometimes  seething  cauldron.  Picked  up  a 
piece  of  scoriated  lava. 

At  1  P.  M.,  Mr.  Aulick  returned.  He  reported  a  gra¬ 
dual  decrease  of  soundings  to  thirteen  fathoms,  nearly 
up  the  slope  to  the  shallow  basin  of  the  southern  sea. 
Everything  favours  the  supposition  that  the  guilty  cities 
stood  on  the  southern  plain,  between  Usdum  and  the 
mountains  of  Moab.  The  northern  part  must  have  been 
always  water,  or  the  plain  have  sunk  at  the  time  of  the 
catastrophe. 

Protected  by  our  presence  from  the  fear  of  robbers, 
some  of  the  Ta’amirah  came  in  to  harvest  their  few 
scanty  patches  of  barley.  They  cut  the  grain,  with  their 
swords  for  reaping-hooks,  and  threw  it  upon  the  thresh¬ 
ing-floor,  —  a  circular  piece  of  hard,  trampled  ground, 
around  which  were  driven  three  donkeys,  abreast.  It 
was  a  slow  and  wasteful  process.  The  little  unmuzzled 
brutes  were,  in  their  rounds,  permitted  to  nip  the  up¬ 
turned  ears.  We  had  often  noticed  the  humanity  of 
this  people  towards  the  brute  creation.  In  a  moment  of 
excitement,  Slierif  wounded  a  stork,  but  seemed  sincerely 
sorry  for  it  afterwards.  The  Arab  who  brought  the  wild 
boar  pigs  to  sell,  cut  their  throats  rather  than  turn  them 
adrift,  when  they  would  have  perished  for  want  of  food, 
which  they  were  too  young  to  procure.  These  Arabs 
always  express  great  horror  at  anything  like  wanton 
cruelty  towards  animals.  And  yet  ’Akil  looked  upon  the 
woman  whose  husband  he  had  slain,  without  the  drooping 
of  an  eyelid,  or  the  visible  relaxation  of  a  muscle.  It  is 
for  philosophers  to  account  for  this  trait  of  humanity 
towards  animals,  in  a  race  proverbially  reckless  of  the 
lives  of  their  fellow-creatures. 

The  small  quantity  of  grain  these  people  could  spare, 
we  purchased  for  distribution  at  home.  In  the  afternoon, 
mounted  on  Sherif ’s  spirited  mare,  I  went  up  to  the  foun- 
28  * 


/ 


330  ILLUSIVE  RUINS. 

tain  of  Ain  Jidy.  It  is  a  clear,  beautiful  stream,  issuing 
from  the  rock,  skirted  by  the  cane  and  shadowed  by  the 
nubk,  four  hundred  feet  up  the  mountain.  The  view 
from  it  was  magnificent,  particularly  towards  Usdum  and 
the  southern  basin  of  the  sea. 

At  sunset,  the  party  to  Sebbeh  returned.  The  follow¬ 
ing  account  I  glean  from  the  reports  of  Mr.  Dale,  Dr. 
Anderson,  and  Mr.  Bedlow : — principally  the  last. 

Their  route,  at  first,  led  along  the  shore  of  the  sea  to 
the  south,  over  the  debris  brought  down  by  the  winter 
torrents, — a  road,  over  which  no  other  but  an  Arab  horse 
could  have  travelled  a  mile  without  breaking  his  limbs, 
or  dashing  his  rider  upon  the  sharp  rocks,  or  disappear¬ 
ing,  rider  and  all,  down  one  of  the  gulleys  which  furrowed 
the  delta  from  the  bases  of  the  cliffs  to  the  margin  of  the 
sea.  After  passing  a  projecting  headland,  which  bounded 
the  shore-line  view  from  the  encampment,  they  beheld,  in 
the  distance,  most  singular  formations,  resembling  a  plain 
covered  with  towns  and  villages,  marble  cities,  with 
columns,  temples,  domes,  and  palaces,  which,  as  they 
advanced,  faded  away,  and  finally  resolved  themselves 
into  curiously-configurated  hills,  so  marked  and  chan¬ 
nelled  by  the  weather,  that,  although  aware  of  the  forma¬ 
tion,  it  was  difficult  to  destroy  the  first  illusion.  A  little 
after  eight  o’clock,  they^  came  to  Wady  Sebbeh,  and  dis¬ 
covered  a  distinct  road,  fifteen  feet  wide  and  marked  by 
two  parallel  rows  of  stones,  which  continued,  with  inter¬ 
ruptions,  for  the  space  of  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  At  nine 
o’clock,  when  the  heat  of  the  sun  began  to  be  oppressive, 
they  reached  a  low  cave  in  the  southern  face  of  the  moun¬ 
tain,  over  Wady  Seyal,  —  a  deep  ravine,  which  separates 
the  cliff  from  the  main  ridge  on  the  north.  Here  they 
dismounted,  as  it  was  impossible  to  proceed  farther  on 
horseback.  Hence,  sometimes  upon  their  hands  and 
knees,  they  clambered  up  the  steep  and  rugged  cliff,  its 


RUINS  OF  MASADA. 


331 


perpendicular  side  pierced  with  apertures,  like  the  Rock 
of  Gibraltar.  They  were  inclined  to  believe,  that  the 
path  by  which  they  ascended  is  the  one  which  Josephus 
calls  the  “  serpent,  as  resembling  that  animal  in  its  nar¬ 
rowness  and  perpetual  windings ;  for  it  is  broken  off  at 
the  prominent  precipices  of  the  rock,  and  returns  fre¬ 
quently  into  itself,  and,  lengthening  again  by  little  and 
little,  hath  much  to  do  to  proceed  forward,  and  he  that 
would  walk  along  it,  must  first  go  on  one  leg  and  then  on 
the  other ;  there  is  also  nothing  but  destruction,  in  case 
your  feet  slip,  for  on  each  side  there  is  a  vastly  deep 
chasm  and  precipice.” 

They  crossed  the  ravine  upon  a  chalky  ridge,  which, 
although  considerably  below  the  highest  point  of  the  cliff, 
yet  connects  the  southern  steep  of  Seyal  to  the  northern 
escarpment  of  Masada,  and  reached  the  top  a  little  before 
10  A.  M.  The  whole  summit  was  surrounded  by  the 
ruins  of  a  wall,  built  on  the  brink  of  the  precipice.  Pass¬ 
ing  through  a  gateway  with  a  pointed  arch,  the  keystone 
and  voissures  of  which  were  of  hewn  stone,  curiously 
marked  with  Greek  delta-shaped  figures  A,  and  others 
resembling  the  planetary  symbol  of  Venus  some  up¬ 
right  and  some  reversed,  and  others  again  with  rude 
crosses  and  the  unfinished  letter  T,  they  came  upon  an 
area  of  about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  in  length  from  north 
to  south,  and  one-fourth  of  a  mile  from  east  to  west. 

There  was  very  little  vegetation,  except  in  the  bottoms 
of  a  few  excavations,  which  seemed  to  have  been  used  as 
cisterns  or  granaries,  and  which  were  half  filled  with  a 
rank  weed  and  a  species  of  lichen.  Elsewhere,  the  earth 
was  as  sterile  as  if  sown  with  salt;  yet  Herod  spoke  of  it 
as  being  “of  a  fat  soil,  and  better  mould  than  any  valley 
for  agriculture.”  Concerning  these  excavations,  Josephus 
says, — “  He  (Herod)  also  had  cut  many  and  great  pits,  as 
reservoirs  for  water,  out  of  the  rocks,  at  every  one  of  the 


/ 


332  RUINS  OF  MASADA. 

places  that  were  inhabited,  both  above  and  around  the 
palace  and  before  the  wall ;  and  by  this  contrivance,  he 
endeavoured  to  have  water  for  several  uses,  as  if  there 
had  been  fountains  there.” 

Towards  the  northern  and  western  edge  of  the  cliff, 
and  near  the  point  which  is  probably  the  “  White  Pro¬ 
montory,”  mentioned  by  Josephus,  they  observed  one  of 
these  excavations  of  considerable  extent,  much  choked 
with  the  ruins  and  rubbish  of  its  own  cemented  walls, 
together  with  the  decomposed  thistles  and  rank  weeds  of 
many  centuries. 

In  the  south-west  comer  of  the  rock,  they  found  one 
still  larger,  finely  stuccoed,  with  a  gallery,  a  flight  of 
forty  stone  steps,  and  lighted  by  two  windows  on  the 
southern  face  of  the  cliff.  This  large  room  was  beauti¬ 
fully  stuccoed  with  pebbles,  and  as  smooth  and  clean  as 
if  just  finished.  This  excavated  chamber  led  them  to 
infer  that  there  were  numerous  others,  lighted  by  the 
apertures  in  the  cliff  they  had  seen  outside  on  their 
ascent ;  but  they  could  find  no  access  to  them. 

At  the  distance  of  about  100  feet  below  the  northern 
summit,  on  an  inaccessible  precipitous  ledge,  they  saw  the 
ruins  of  a  round  tower ;  and  forty  or  fifty  feet  below  that, 
on  another  ledge,  the  foundation  walls  of  a  square  enclo¬ 
sure,  with  a  triangular  wall  abutting  with  the  angles  of 
its  base  upon  the  walls  of  the  circular  tower,  and  the 
west  side  of  the  square  enclosure.  They  found  it  impos¬ 
sible  to  descend  to  examine  these  ruins. 

Besides  the  remains  of  the  round  tower,  or  donjon  keep, 
there  were,  on  the  summit,  the  fragments  of  walls  with 
circular  recesses  of  tessellated  brick- work,  arched  door¬ 
ways,  and  mullioned  windows,  partly  surrounding  an  en¬ 
closure  which  was  perhaps  the  court-yard  or  quadrangle 
of  the  castle,  now  filled  with  rubbish,  fragments  of  marble, 
mosaic  and  pottery. 


MASADA. 


i 


RUINS  OF  MASADA. 


338 


The  foundations  and  lower  portions  of  the  wall  built 
around  the  entire  top  of  the  hill  by  Herod,  are  still  remain¬ 
ing  on  the  eastern  side.  The  officers  amused  themselves 
by  displacing  some  of  the  stones  and  sending  them  over 
the  cliff,  and  watching  them  as  they  whirled  and  bounded 
to  the  base,  upwards  of  1200  feet  down,  with  more  fear¬ 
ful  velocity  than  the  stones  from  the  Eoman  ballistse  when 
Silva  pressed  the  siege. 

One  of  the  windows,  apparently  a  part  of  a  chapel, 
looked  out  upon  the  sea.  It  was  the  one  appearing  as  an 
arch,  which  we  saw  when  passing  in  the  boats.  From 
thence,  the  sea  could  be  seen  throughout  its  whole  extent, 
its  northern  and  southern  extremities  clearly  defined, 
even  through  the  haze  which  overhung  them.  The  con¬ 
figuration  of  the  peninsula  lay  distinctly  before  them,  and 
bore  some  resemblence  to  an  outspread  wing. 

Immediately  below  them,  along  the  base  of  the  cliff, 
could  be  traced  the  wall  of  circumvallation  which  “  Silva 
built  on  the  outside,  round  about  the  whole  place,  and 
had  thereby  made  a  most  accurate  provision  to  prevent 
any  one  of  the  besieged  running  away.” 

Continuing  their  explorations  towards  the  southern  and 
eastern  edge  of  the  cliff,  they  followed  a  perilous  track 
along  the  face  of  the  rock,  which  could  not  have  been  less 
than  1000  feet  in  perpendicular  height  above  the  chasm, 
and  came  upon  an  extensive  shelf  or  platform  encum¬ 
bered  with  masses  of  rubbish  and  masonry,  evidently  the 
ruins  of  the  wall  which  edged  the  cliff  above.  Scram¬ 
bling  over  the  heaps,  they  reached  an  excavation  which 
the  Arab  guide  called  a  cistern,  which  is  probably  correct, 
for  in  descending  they  saw  narrow  troughs  or  aqueducts, 
the  inner  half  scooped  in  the  rock.  It  was  an  oblong 
cell,  hewn  in  the  rock,  measuring  thirty  feet  in  length, 
fifteen  in  breadth,  and  eighteen  or  twenty  in  depth, 
cemented  on  all  sides.  At  the  entrance  of  the  excavation 


334 


RUINS  OF  MASADA. 


they  saw  the  carcase  of  an  animal  recently  killed.  It  re¬ 
sembled  the  rabbit,  and  was  called  by  the  Arabs  “  webr” 
or  webeh,  the  coney  of  scripture.  To  the  left  of  the 
entrance,  and  within  the  cell,  was  a  small  flight  of  steps 
terminating  in  a  platform.  Like  the  walls,  the  steps 
were  coated  with  cement.  Above  this  was  an  aperture 
not  accessible  by  the  steps.  By  notching  the  wall,  they 
contrived  to  reach  it.  It  was  the  entrance  of  a  low  cave, 
roughly  hewn  in  the  rock,  with  a  window  looking  out 
upon  the  steep  face  of  Wady  Senin.  Around  the  rough 
and  uncemented  walls  were  rude  crosses  in  red  paint,  and 
upon  the  dust  of  the  floor  were  the  fresh  footprints  of  the 
“  whal,”  or  the  bteddin. 

They  attempted  to  explore  the  southern  face  of  the 
mountain,  by  following  a  zigzag  path  along  the  ledge  pro¬ 
jecting  a  few  feet  from  the  rough  surface  of  rock,  but 
found  it  impracticable  from  the  looseness  of  the  rocks  and 
the  fearful  dizzy  depth  below.  On  their  return,  they  ob¬ 
served  a  singular  ruin  about  the  centre  of  the  quadrangle. 
The  square  blocks  of  stone,  cemented  together  with  great 
regularity,  were  cellular  on  both  sides,  so  abraded  by  the 
weather  as  to  present  the  appearance  of  a  honey-comb. 
They  supposed  it  to  have  been  a  store-house  or  barracks 
for  soldiers.  Before  descending  they  sketched  the  sea, 
and  took  many  bearings.  On  their  return  to  the  cave, 
the  Arabs  asked  them  if  their  visit  had  been  “  acceptable.” 
These  people  believe  that  we  come  here  to  search  for 
treasure  or  to  visit  places  we  consider  holy.  In  Wady 
Seyal  (Bavine  of  Acacias)  were  many  seyal  or  acacia 
trees.* 


*  Acacia  Seyal  or  JYilotica  furnishes  gum  Arabic,  and  probably  afforded 
the  shittah  or  shittim  wood,  used  in  building  the  tabernacle.  In  Isaiah, 
the  shittah  is  joined  with  the  myrtle  and  other  fragrant  shrubs.  The 
flowers  have  an  agreeable  odour.  Almost  all  travellers  speak  of  the  acacia 
seyal  as  abounding  in  Palestine  and  the  desert  of  Arabia.  It  is  sometimes 


UNUSUAL  SYMPTOMS.  335 

On  their  return,  they  noticed  a  foetid  sulphureous  smell 
in  passing  Berket  el  Khulil  (the  u  tank  of  Khulil) . 

Their  report  seems  to  confirm  the  supposition  of 
Messrs.  Bobinson  and  Smith  that  the  ruins  of  Sebbeh  are 
those  of  Masada.  At  every  step  in  our  route,  where 
these  gentlemen  have  been,  we  found  that  accurate  and 
learned  observers  had  preceded  us,  and  in  these  precur¬ 
sors,  with  no  little  satisfaction,  we  recognised  our  own 
countrymen. 


CHAPTER  XYI. 

FROM  CAMP  TO  THE  CAPITAL  OF  MOAB. 

Sunday,  April  30.  This  morning,  like  the  land  we  are 
in,  we  enjoyed  our  Sabbath,  and  slept  until  the  sun  and 
flies  compelled  us  to  get  up.  There  were  light  airs  from 
the  west.  At  6.30  A.  M.,  thermometer  84°,  and  quite 
warm.  The  wind  had  been  fresh  in  the  night,  and  the 
boats  were  driven  by  the  surf  broadside  on  the  beach. 
The  atmosphere  of  the  tent  being  oppressive,  we  break¬ 
fasted  outside  in  its  shade.  Some  of  us  spent  the  fore¬ 
noon  in  the  quiet  recesses  of  the  ravine,  endeavouring  to 
observe  the  day.  Thus  far,  all,  with  one  exception,  had 
enjoyed  good  health,  but  there  were  symptoms  which 
caused  me  uneasiness.  The  figure  of  each  one  had 
assumed  a  dropsical  appearance.  The  lean  had  become 
stout,  and  the  stout  almost  corpulent ;  the  pale  faces  had 
become  florid,  and  those  which  were  florid,  ruddy ;  more¬ 
over,  the  slightest  scratch  festered,  and  the  bodies  of 


called  by  the  Arabs  the  talk,  and  camels  graze  on  its  leaves  and  tender 
branches. —  Griffith. 


336  EFFECTS  UPON  HEALTH. 

many  of  us  were  covered  with  small  pustules.  The  men 
complained  bitterly  of  the  irritation  of  their  sores,  when¬ 
ever  the  acrid  water  of  the  sea  touched  them.  Still,  all 
had  good  appetites,  and  I  hoped  for  the  best/1'  There 
could  be  nothing  pestilential  in  the  atmosphere  of  the  sea. 
There  is  little  verdure  upon  its  shores,  and,  by  conse¬ 
quence,  but  little  vegetable  decomposition  to  render  the 
air  impure  ;  and  the  foetid  smell  we  had  frequently 
noticed,  doubtless  proceeded  from  the  sulphur-impreg¬ 
nated  thermal  springs,  which  were  not  considered  dele¬ 
terious.  Three  times,  it  is  true,  we  had  picked  up  dead 
birds,  but  they,  doubtless,  had  perished  from  exhaustion, 
and  not  from  any  malaria  of  the  sea,  which  is  perfectly 
inodorous,  and,  more  than  any  other,  abounds  with  saline 
exhalations,  which,  I  believe,  are  considered  wholesome. 
Our  Ta’amirah  told  us  that,  in  pursuance  of  the  plan  he 
had  adopted  with  regard  to  the  settlement  of  the  Ghor, 
Ibrahim  Pasha  sent  three  thousand  Egyptians  to  the 
shores  of  this  sea,  about  ten  years  since,  and  that  every 
one  died  within  two  months.  This  is,  no  doubt,  very 
much  exaggerated. 

There  was,  most  probably,  much  mortality  among  the 
poor  wretches,  forced  from  their  fertile  plains  to  this  rug¬ 
ged  and  inhospitable  shore ;  but  dejection  of  spirits,  and 
scarcity  of  food,  must  have  been  the  great  destroyers. 

At  12.15,  started  for  the  eastern  shore,  leaving  Sherif 
again  in  charge,  with  directions  to  move  the  camp  to  Ain 
Turabeh,  on  Wednesday.  This  was  the  day  appointed  to 
meet  ’Akil,  and  I  felt  sure  that  he  would  not  fail  us. 

A  light  air  from  the  south  induced  me  to  abandon  the 
awning  and  set  the  sail,  to  spare  the  men  from  labouring 

*  Wherever  there  is  an  evil  there  is  usually  its  antidote  near  at  hand ; 
and,  perhaps,  the  remedy  for  these  cutaneous  diseases  is  to  be  found  in  the 
acrid  juices  of  the  osher,  which  grows  here  and  upon  the  southern  shores 
of  this  sea. 


HEAT  AND  DESOLATION.  337 

at  the  oars.  A  light  tapping  of  the  ripples  at  the  bow, 
and  a  faint  line  of  foam  and  bubbles  at  her  side,  were  the 
only  indications  that  the  boat  was  in  motion.  The 
Fanny  Skinner  was  a  mile  astern,  and  all  around  partook 
of  the  stillness  of  death.  The  weather  was  intensely  hot, 
and  even  the  light  air  that  urged  us  almost  insensibly  on¬ 
ward  had  something  oppressive  in  its  flaws  of  heat.  The 
sky  was  unclouded,  save  by  a  few  faint  cirri  in  the  north, 
sweeping  plume-like,  as  if  the  sun  had  consumed  the 
clouds,  and  the  light  wind  had  drifted  their  ashes.  The 
glitter  from  the  water,  with  its  multitude  of  reflectors, 
for  each  ripple  was  a  mirror,  contributed  much  to  our  dis¬ 
comfort  ;  yet  the  water  was  not  transparent,  but  of  the 
colour  of  diluted  absinthe,  or  the  prevailing  tint  of  a  Per¬ 
sian  opal.  The  sun,  we  felt,  was  glaring  upon  us,  but  the 
eye  dared  not  take  cognizance,  for  the  fierce  blaze  would 
have  blighted  the  powers  of  vision,  as  Semele  was  con¬ 
sumed  by  the  unveiled  divinity  of  Jove. 

The  black  chasms  and  rough  peaks,  embossed  with 
grimness,  were  around  and  above  us,  veiled  in  a  transpa¬ 
rent  mist,  like  visible  air,  that  made  them  seem  unreal, — 
and,  1300  feet  below,  our  sounding-lead  had  struck  upon 
the  buried  plain  of  Siddim,  shrouded  in  slime  and  salt. 

While  busied  with  such  thoughts,  my  companions  had 
yielded  to  the  oppressive  drowsiness,  and  now  lay  before 
me  in  every  attitude  of  a  sleep  that  had  more  of  stupor  in 
it  than  of  repose.  In  the  awful  aspect  which  this  sea 
presented,  when  we  first  beheld  it,  I  seemed  to  read  the 
inscription  over  the  gates  of  Dante’s  Inferno  : — 66  Ye  who 
enter  here,  leave  hope  behind.”  Since  then,  habituated 
to  mysterious  appearances  in  a  journey  so  replete  with 
them,  and  accustomed  to  scenes  of  deep  and  thrilling 
interest  at  every  step  of  our  progress,  those  feelings  of 
awe  had  been  insensibly  lessened  or  hushed  by  deep  inte¬ 
rest  in  the  investigations  we  had  pursued.  But  now,  as  I 
29  w 


338  PRESENTIMENT  OF  DISASTER. 

sat  alone  in  my  wakefulness,  the  feeling  of  awe  returned ; 
and,  as  I  looked  upon  the  sleepers,  I  felt  “  the  hair  of  my 
flesh  stand  up,”  as  Job’s  did,  when  “  a  spirit  passed  before 
his  face ;”  for,  to  my  disturbed  imagination,  there  was 
something  fearful  in  the  expression  of  their  inflamed  and 
swollen  visages.  The  fierce  angel  of  disease  seemed 
hovering  over  them,  and  I.  read  the  forerunner  of  his 
presence  in  their  flushed  and  feverish  sleep.  Some,  with 
their  bodies  bent  and  arms  dangling  over  the  abandoned 
oars,  their  hands  excoriated  with  the  acrid  water,  slept 
profoundly ; — others,  with  heads  thrown  back,  and  lips 
cracked  and  sore,  with  a  scarlet  flush  on  either  cheek, 
seemed  overpowered  by  heat  and  weariness  even  in  sleep ; 
while  some,  upon  whose  faces  shone  the  reflected  light 
from  the  water,  looked  ghastly,  and  dozed  with  a  nervous 
twitching  of  the  limbs,  and  now  and  then  starting  from 
their  sleep,  drank  deeply  from  a  breaker  and  sank  back 
again  to  lethargy.  The  solitude,  the  scene,  my  own 
thoughts,  were  too  much ;  I  felt,  as  I  sat  thus,  steering 
the  drowsily-moving  boat,  as  if  I  were  a  Charon,  ferrying, 
not  the  souls,  but  the  bodies,  of  the  departed  and  the 
damned,  over  some  infernal  lake,  and  could  endure  it  no 
longer;  but  breaking  from  my  listlessness,  ordered  the 
sails  to  be  furled  and  the  oars  resumed — action  seemed 
better  than  such  unnatural  stupor. 

Prudence  urged  us  to  proceed  no  farther,  but  to  stop, 
before  some  disaster  overtook  us;  but  the  thought  of 
leaving  any  part  of  our  work  undone  was  too  painful, 
and  I  resolved  to  persevere,  but  to  be  as  expeditious  as 
possible  without  working  the  party  too  hard. 

At  4.10  P.  M.,  reached  “Point  Costigan,”  north  end 
of  the  peninsula,  and  steered  S.  S.  E.  across  the  bay,  to 
search  for  water  and  for  signals  from  ’Akil.  The  heat 
was  still  intense,  rendered  less  endurable  by  the  bright 
glare  from  the  white  spicuke  of  the  peninsula,  and  the 


BATTLE  BETWEEN  ARABS.  339 

dazzling  reflection  from  the  surface  of  the  sea.  At  4.45, 
sounded  in  twenty-four  fathoms,  hard  bottom,  about  gun¬ 
shot  distance  from  the  land.  5.05,  saw  an  Arab  on  the 
shore  among  the  low  canes  and  bushes,  and  shortly  after 
several  others.  Preparing  for  hostilities,  yet  in  the 
hope  of  a  friendly  reception,  we  pulled  directly  in  and 
hailed  them.  To  our  great  delight,  one  of  them  proved 
to  be  J urn  ah  (Friday),  sent  by  ’Akll,  who  yesterday  ar¬ 
rived  at  Kerak.  We  immediately  landed,  and  bivouacked 
upon  the  beach,  a  short  distance  from  a  shallow  stream 
descending  the  Wady  Beni  Hamed. 

’Akll,  on  leaving  us  at  ’Ain  el  Feshkah,  endeavoured, 
according  to  agreement,  to  find  his  way  to  the  eastern 
shore  and  thence  to  Kerak.  On  his  way  he  stopped  with 
some  of  his  friends,  a  portion  of  the  tribe  of  Beni  Siikrs 
from  Salt.  In  the  night  they  were  unexpectedly  attacked 
by  a  party  of  Beni  ’Adwans.  At  first,  being  much  infe¬ 
rior  in  numbers,  they  retreated,  ’Akll  losing  his  camel 
and  all  his  baggage.  Subsequently  they  were  strongly 
reinforced,  and  became  assailants  in  their  turn.  The 
action  lasted  several  hours ;  they  had  twelve  wounded, 
including  two  of  ’Akll’s  followers,  and  twenty-two  of  the 
Adwans  were  reported  to  be  killed  and  wounded,  among 
the  former  the  son  of  the  skeikh.  ’Akll’s  Nubian  was 
twice  wounded  in  the  arm,  once  by  a  gun-shot,  and  once 
by  the  thrust  of  a  spear.  The  rifle  of  the  hostile  young 
sheikh  was  given  to  Sherif  Musaid,  nephew  of  Sherif 
Hazaa,  for  his  gallantry  in  the  action. 

We  learned  from  Jum’ah  that  there  were  two  sheikhs 
or  governors  in  Kerak,  a  Christian  one,  who  could  muster 
250  riflemen,  and  a  Muslim  one,  whose  followers  were 
mostly  mounted,  and  far  more  numerous ;  —  the  former 
wholly  subservient  to  the  latter. 

At  7.30  P.  M.,  Sulieman,  the  son  of  Abd  ’Allah,  Chris¬ 
tian  sheikh  of  Kerak,  with  four  followers,  arrived  with  a 


340 


DEBILITY  FROM  HEAT. 


welcome  and  an  invitation  from  liis  father  to  visit  him  in 
his  mountain  fortress,  seventeen  miles  distant,  saying  that 
he  would  have  come  himself  if  certain  of  meeting  us. 
They  had  been  despatched  at  Akil’s  instance  at  early 
daybreak,  and  from  the  mountains,  on  their  way  down, 
saw  us  crossing  the  sea.  An  invitation  was  also  received 
from  the  Muslim  sheikh.  I  accepted  it  with  a  full  sense 
of  the  risk  incurred ;  but  the  whole  party  was  so  much 
debilitated  by  the  sirocco  we  had  experienced  on  the 
south  side  of  the  peninsula,  and  by  the  subsequent  heat, 
that  it  became  absolutely  necessary  to  reinvigorate  it 
at  all  hazards.  I  felt  sure  that  Jum’ah  would  carefully 
guard  our  boats  in  our  absence,  and  therefore  sent  to  ’Akll, 
through  whom  alone  I  had  resolved  to  hold  transactions 
with  this  people,  for  horses  and  mules  for  the  party.  He 
had  sent  an  apology  for  not  coming  in  person  on  account 
of  his  wounded  followers,  and  in  consequence  of  all  their 
horses  being  foundered.  Mr.  Dale,  like  myself,  found  it 
difficult  to  keep  awake  to-day,  while  steering  the  boat 
across.  We  are  on  the  eastern  side,  a  little  north  of  the 
neck  of  the  peninsula.  Wady  Kerak  is  at  the  S.  E.  ex¬ 
tremity  of  the  bay.  Between  it  and  us  is  the  village  of 
Mezra’a,  and  in  the  near  vicinity  of  the  latter  are  the 
supposed  ruins  of  Zoar.  To-morrow  we  will  continue  the 
exploration  of  this  deep  and  interesting  bay. 

On  our  return  here,  in  consequence  of  the  sun  having 
been  pouring  on  my  unsheltered  back  for  some  hours 
while  steering  the  boat,  I  was  heated  excessively,  and 
sick  even  to  faintness ;  but  a  bath  wonderfully  refreshed 
me.  On  all  occasions,  when  weary,  faint,  and  almost  ex¬ 
hausted,  a  bath  has  been  the  great  restorative,  and  I 
recommended  it  to  all.  On  the  banks  of  the  stream  were 
oleanders  eighteen  feet  high,  and  in  full  bloom.  Here, 
too,  as  on  the  Jordan,  it  is  quite  fragrant.  Between  the 
camp  and  the  stream,  and  scattered  on  the  plain,  are 


THE  FELL AHIN  TRIBES. 


341 


groves  of  acacia,  and  many  osher  trees  as  large  as  half- 
grown  apple-trees,  and  with  larger  fruit  than  any  we  had 
seen.  We  gathered  some  of  the  size  of  the  largest  October 
peach,  but  green,  soft,  and  pulpy;  emitting,  like  the 
branches,  a  viscous  milky  fluid  when  cut,  which  the 
Arabs  told  us  would  be  extremely  injurious  to  the  eyes 
if  it  touched  them.  There  was  some  of  the  dried  fruit 
too,  as  brittle  as  glass  and  flying  to  pieces  on  the  slightest 
pressure.  Within  the  last  was  a  very  small  quantity  of 
a  thin,  silky  fibre,  which  is  used  by  the  Arabs  for  gun 
matches.  The  rind  is  thinner,  but  very  much  in  colour 
like  a  dried  lemon,  and  the  dried  fruit  has  the  appearance 
of  having  spontaneously  bursted. 

An  Arab  from  Mezra’a  brought  us  some  detestable  sour 
leban  and  some  milk,  but  of  which  few  could  endure  the 
smell,  caused  by  the  filthy  goat-skins  which  contained 
them,  and  which,  it  seems,  are  never  washed.  He  also 
brought  some  flour  made  of  the  dhom  apple,  dried  and 
pulverized,  which  was  very  palatable. 

The  sheikh  of  Mezra’a,  with  some  of  his  people,  also 
came  in.  Together  with  the  fellahin  tribes  at  the  south 
end  of  the  sea,  they  are  generally  denominated  Ghau- 
rariyeh.  They  are  much  darker,  and  their  hair  more 
wiry  and  disposed  to  curl  than  any  Arabs  we  have  seen. 
Their  features  as  well  as  their  complexion  are  more  of 
the  African  type,  and  they  are  short  and  spare  built,  with 
low  receding  foreheads,  and  the  expression  of  countenance 
is  half  sinister  and  half  idiotic.  Their  only  garment  is  a 
tunic  of  brief  dimensions,  open  at  the  breast  and  confined 
round  the  waist  by  a  band  or  leathern  belt.  The  sheik!) 
has  rude  sandals,  fastened  by  thongs  ;  the  rest  are  bare¬ 
footed.  The  women  are  even  more  abject-looking  than 
the  men,  and  studiously  conceal  their  faces.  They  all, 
men  and  women,  seem  to  bear  impressed  upon  their  fea¬ 
tures  the  curse  of  their  incestuous  origin. 

29* 


342 


CHRISTIAN  ARABS. 


Their  village,  Mezra’a,  is  on  the  plain,  about  half  an 
hour,  or  one  mile  and  a  half  distant.  Their  houses  are 
mere  hovels  plastered  with  mud.  They  cultivate  the 
dlioura  (millet),  tobacco,  and  some  indigo,  a  specimen  of 
which  we  procured. 

The  deputation  from  Kerak  expressed  great  delight  at 
beholding  fellow-Christians  upon  the  shores  of  this  sea, 
and  said  that  if  they  had  known  of  our  first  arrival  on 
the  western  shore,  they  would  have  gone  round  and  in¬ 
vited  us  over.  It  was  a  strange  sight  to  see  these  wild 
Arab  Christians  uniting  themselves  to  us  with  such  heart¬ 
felt  cordiality.  It  would  he  interesting  to  trace  whether 
they  are  some  of  the  lost  tribes  subsequently  converted 
to  Christianity;  or  the  descendants  of  Christians,  who, 
in  the  fastnesses  of  the  mountains,  escaped  the  Muham- 
medan  alternative  of  the  Koran  or  the  sword ;  or  a  small 
Christian  remnant  of  the  Crusades.  At  all  events  their 
gratification  at  meeting  us  was  unfeigned  and  warmly  ex¬ 
pressed.  They  felt  that  we  would  sympathize  with  them 
in  the  persecutions  to  which  they  are  subjected  by  their 
lawless  Muslim  neighbours.  They  had,  indeed,  our  warm¬ 
est  sympathies,  and  our  blood  boiled  as  we  listened  to  a 
recital  of  their  wrongs.  We  felt  more  than  ever  anxious 
to  visit  Kerak,  and  judge  for  ourselves  of  their  condition. 
Their  mode  of  salutation  approaches  nearer  to  our  own 
than  that  of  any  other  tribe  we  met ;  they  shake  hands, 
and  then  each  kisses  the  one  he  had  extended.  They 
had  never  seen  a  boat,  which,  in  the  language  of  the 
country,  is  called  u  choctura,”  and  supposing  that  ours 
must  have  feet,  examined  them  with  great  curiosity. 
They  could  not  believe  that  anything  larger  could  be 
made  to  float.  In  the  course  of  the  evening  one  of  the 
fellahin  from  Mezra’a,  when  he  first  beheld  them,  stood 
for  some  time  lost  in  contemplation,  and  then  burst  forth 
in  joyful  shouts  of  recognition.  He  was  an  Egyptian  by 


— - — 


»  : 


' 

.  . 


METEORS. 


343 


birth,  and  stolen  from  his  home  when  quite  young,  had 
forgotten  everything  connected  with  his  native  country, 
until  the  sight  of  our  boats  reminded  him  of  having  seen 
things  resembling  them ;  and  the  Nile,  and  the  boats 
upon  its  surface,  and  the  familiar  scenes  of  his  childhood, 
rushed  upon  his  memory.  It  was  interesting  to  see  the 
dull  and  clouded  intellect  gradually  lighten  up  as  the  re¬ 
membrance  of  the  past  broke  in  upon  it ;  yet  it  was  sad, 
for  the  glad  smile  of  the  Egyptian  died  away,  and  left  a 
sorrowing  expression  upon  his  features  —  for  from  the 
Nile  his  dormant  affections  had,  perhaps,  reverted  to  the 
hovel  upon  its  banks — and  he  thought  of  his  mother  and 
young  barbarian  playmates. 

These  Christian  Arabs  are  of  the  tribe  Beni  Khallas 
(Sons  of  the  Invincible),  a  name  inappropriate  to  their 
present  condition.  Their  features  are  fuller  and  more 
placid  in  expression,  and  they  seem  more  vigorous,  manly, 
and  intelligent  than  the  Baschayideh  and  Ta’amirah  of 
the  Judean  shore.  After  dinner,  partaken  by  the  light 
of  the  camp-fires,  we  set  the  watch  and  threw  ourselves 
upon  the  shelving  beach,  each  one  wrapping  up  his  head 
to  screen  it  from  the  fresh  wind.  Our  Christian  Arabs 
kept  watch  and  ward  with  us  through  the  night,  for  they 
had  reason  to  know  that  the  Mezra’a  people  were  dan¬ 
gerous  neighbours. 

Although  the  wind  was  fresh  from  the  north-west  during 
the  night,  the  thermometer,  which  was  taken  hourly, 
ranged  from  82°  down  to  70°.  At  70°  the  air  felt  uncom¬ 
fortably  cold,  so  much  had  we  been  relaxed  by  the  sirocco. 
During  the  day  the  weather  became  warmer,  not  only 
from  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun,  but  the  reflected  heat 
from  the  barren  cliffs  which  hem  in  this  sea.  There  were 
several  meteors  in  the  night,  shooting  from  the  zenith 
towards  the  north.  One  was  peculiar;  instead  of  darting 
along  the  sky,  it  seemed  to  drop  directly  down,  with  less 


344 


A  WILD  BOAR  KILLED. 


than  the  usual  velocity.  It  was  very  bright,  and  resem¬ 
bled  falling  fire-flakes  from  a  discharged  rocket. 

Monday,  May  1.  A  calm  and  warm  but  not  unpleasant 
morning;  thermometer,  83°.  At  7,  sent  Mr.  Dale  and 
Mr.  Aulick  in  the  Fanny  Skinner  to  complete  the  topo¬ 
graphical  sketch  of  the  shore-lines  of  the  hay,  to  verify 
the  position  of  the  mouth  of  Wady  Kerak,  and  to  sound 
down  the  middle  on  their  return.  About  mid-day  they 
came  back ;  the  weather  oppressively  warm. 

Overhauled  the  copper  boat,  which  wore  away  rapidly 
in  this  briny  sea.  Such  was  the  action  of  the  fluid  upon 
the  metal,  that  the  latter,  as  long  as  it  was  exposed  to  its 
immediate  friction,  was  as  bright  as  burnished  gold,  but 
whenever  it  came  in  contact  with  the  air,  it  corroded 
immediately. 

Put  up  specimens  of  the  flower  and  fruit  of  the  osher 
tree  in  spirits  of  wine,  and  procured  some  indigo,  raised 
in  the  vicinity  of  Zoar,  the  ruins  of  which,  a  short  dis¬ 
tance  hence,  I  purposed  visiting  in  the  evening.  At  9,  a 
wild  boar  was  brought  in.  A  horse,  taken  into  the  bay, 
could,  with  difficulty,  keep  himself  upright.  v  Two  fresh 
hens’  eggs  floated  up  one-third  of  their  length.  They 
would  have  sunk,  in  the  water  of  the  Mediterranean  or 
the  Atlantic. 

When  one  of  our  party  inquired  if  there  were  stores  in 
Kerak,  describing  a  place  where  articles  were  sold,  the 
Christian  Arab  replied, — “  What  we  have  we  give  :  do 
you  think  that  we  would  sell  you  any  thing  ?  You  are 
our  friends.”  While  waiting  for  the  horses,  we  made  this 
a  feast-day;  and,  anticipating  the  usual  hour,  dined 
sumptuously,  at  2  P.  M.,  on  wild  boar’s  meat,  onions,  and 
the  last  of  our  rice. 

The  stones  on  the  beach  before  me,  as  I  wrote,  were 
encrusted  with  salt,  and  looked  exactly  as  if  whitewashed. 

It  was  well  that  we  despatched  ’Aldl  in  advance  to  the 


ANCIENT  RUINS. 


345 


Arabian  tribes,  for  the  Sheikh  of  Mezra’a  told  Jum’ali 
that,  when  he  first  saw  us  coming,  he  hastened  to  col¬ 
lect  his  followers,  with  the  determination  of  attacking  us, 
and  only  changed  his  purpose  when  he  heard  him  greet 
us  as  friends.  It  would  have  been  a  matter  of  regret  had 
they  fired  upon  us ;  for,  although  we  would  most  certainly 
have  defeated  them,  there  must  have  been  blood  shed, 
and  it  was  my  most  earnest  wish  to  accomplish  the 
objects  of  the  expedition  without  injury  to  a  human 
being. 

P.  M.  Eode  out  upon  the  plain,  with  two  Arabs  on 
foot,  to  look  for  the  ruins  of  Zoar.  Pursuing  a  S.  E. 
direction,  up  the  peninsula,  passed,  first,  some  dhoura 
(millet)  fields,  the  grain  but  a  few  inches  above  the  ground 
—  many  of  the  fields  yet  wet  from  recent  irrigation. 
Thence  rode  through  many  tangled  thickets  of  cane  and 
tamarisk,  with  occasional  nubk  and  osher  trees,  and  came, 
at  length,  upon  an  open  space,  with  many  large  heaps  of 
stones  in  regular  rows,  as  if  they  had  once  formed  houses. 
They  were  uncut,  and  had  “  never  known  iron but 
there  were  no  other  vestiges  of  a  building  about  them ; — 
so  I  concluded  that  they  were  the  larger  stones  which  had 
encumbered  the  soil,  and  were  gathered  by  the  fellahin. 

Proceeding  a  little  more  to  the  south,  we  came  to  many 
more  such  mounds  or  heaps,  and,  among  them,  to  the 
foundation  of  a  building  of  some  size.  It  was  in  the  form 
of  a  main  building,  with  a  smaller  one  before  or  behind 
it ;  the  first  being  a  quadrangular  wall,  and  the  other  in 
detached  pieces,  like  the  pedestals  of  columns.  The 
stones  were  large,  some  of  them  one  and  a  half  feet  in 
diameter,  uncut,  but  roughly  hewn,  and  fitted  on  each 
other  with  exactness,  but  without  mortar.  There  were 
many  minute  fragments  of  pottery  scattered  about  on  the 
soil ;  and  among  the  rubbish  I  found  an  old  hand-mortar, 
very  much  worn,  which  I  brought  away.  The  ruined 


346  TWO  ARABIAN  SHEIKHS. 

\ 

foundation  bore  the  marks  of  great  antiquity;  and  the 
site  corresponds  to  the  one  assigned  by  Irby  and  Mangles 
as  that  of  Zoar.  But  I  could  see  no  columns  and  no  other 
vestiges  of  ruins  than  what  I  have  mentioned. 

Returning,  saw  the  horses  and  mules  for  which  we 
had  sent,  coming  down  the  mountains,  and  waited  for 
them  in  the  plain.  They  were  accompanied  by  Muham- 
med,  the  son  of  Abd’el  Kadir,  the  Muslim  Sheikh  of  the 
Kerakiyeh,  and  by  Abd’  Allah,  the  Christian  sheikh  of 
the  Beni  Khallas;  the  latter  residing  in  the  town  of 
Kerak,  the  former  living  mostly  in  black  tents,  about 
half  a  mile  distant  from  it. 

On  our  way  to  camp,  Muhammed  endeavoured  to  dis¬ 
play  his  horsemanship ;  but  the  animal,  wearied  by  the 
rough  mountain  road  he  had  travelled,  fell  to  the  ground, 
and  his  rider  was  compelled  to  jump  off  to  save  himself. 
In  mounting  again,  not  finding  any  thing  more  con¬ 
venient,  he  arrogantly  ordered  one  of  the  fellahin  to 
stoop,  and,  placing  his  foot  upon  the  abject  creature’s 
back,  sprung  upon  his  horse. 

This  Muhammed  is  about  thirty  years  of  age,  very 
short  but  compactly  built,  with  a  glossy,  very  dark- 
mahogany  skin,  long,  coarse  black  hair,  and  a  thick,  black 
beard  and  moustache.  His  eye,  fiery,  but  furtive,  was 
never  fixed  in  its  gaze,  but,  rolling  restlessly  from  one 
object  to  another,  seemed  rather  the  glare  of  a  wild 
beast  than  the  expression  of  a  human  eye.  Altogether, 
we  thought  that  he  had  the  most  insolent  and  overbearing 
countenance  and  manner  we  had  ever  seen. 

Abd’  Allah,  the  Christian  sheikh,  about  twenty  years 
his  senior,  was  a  very  different  person  ;  robust  in  frame, 
he  was  mild  even  to  meekness.  In  the  bearing  of  the 
respective  parties  towards  each  other,  we  could  read 
a  long  series  of  oppression  on  one  side  and  submissive 
endurance  on  the  other. 


AN  ARAB  LETTER.  347 

They  brought  me  a  letter  from  ’Akil,  of  which  the  fol¬ 
lowing  is  a  literal  translation  : — 

DIRECTION. 

“  By  God’s  favour.  May  it  reach  Haditheh,  and  be 
delivered  to  the  hand  of  the  Excellency  of  our  Beloved. 

“May  God  preserve  him.  Beduali,  1642.” 
inside. 

“  To  the  Excellency  of  the  most  honourable,  our  dear 
friend — may  the  Almighty  God  preserve  him. 

“We  beg,  first,  to  offer  you  our  love  and  great  desire 
to  see  the  light  of  your  happy  countenance.  We  beg, 
secondly,  to  say  that  in  the  most  happy  and  honourable 
time,  we  received  your  letter  containing  your  beautiful 
discourse.  We  thanked,  on  reading  it,  the  Almighty 
God  that  you  are  well,  and  ask  him  now,  also  (who  is 
the  most  fit  to  ask),  that  we  may  be  permitted  to  behold 
the  light  of  your  countenance  in  a  fit  and  agreeable  time. 

“  The  animals  which  you  have  ordered  will  be  brought 
down  to  you  by  the  Excellency  of  our  brother  chief,  Mu- 
hammed  Nujally,  and  the  chief  Abd’  Allah  en  Nahas; 
and  the  men  necessary  to  guard  the  boats  will  be  supplied 
by  the  said  chiefs. 

“  The  reason  of  our  delay  in  coming  to  you  was  the 
weakness  and  fatigue  of  our  horses.  The  time  will  be, 
God  willing,  short  before  we  see  you. 

“  This  being  all  that  is  necessary,  we  beg  you  will  offer 
our  compliments  (peace)  to  all  those  who  inquire  after 
us.  —  From  this  part,  the  Excellency  of  our  respected 
brother,  Sherif,  sends  you  his  best  compliments.  May 
you  be  kept  in  peace. 

“  ©  Seal  of  ’Akil  Aga  el  Ilassee. 
“Kerak,  28  Jamad  A  wall.” 

The  boats  excited  much  attention ;  and,  to  gratify  both 
the  Christian  and  the  Muslim  Arabs,  we  launched  one 


348 


ARAB  WAR-CRY. 


and  pulled  her  a  short  distance  out  and  back,  some  of  the 
Arabs  being  on  board  ;  but  Muhammed,  although  he  had 
been  the  loudest  in  expressions  of  wonder  and  incredulity, 
declined  to  go  with  them ;  and  I  was  disposed  to  think 
that  he  wras  a  very  coward  after  all.  On  returning  from 
the  beach,  they  stuck  plugs  of  onions  into  their  nostrils, 
to  counteract  the  malaria  they  had  imbibed  from  the  sea. 
They  call  it  “  the  sea  accursed  of  God and,  entertaining 
the  most  awful  fears  respecting  it,  looked  upon  us  as  mad¬ 
men  for  remaining  so  long  upon  it. 

During  the  forenoon,  the  thermometer  ranged  from  86° 
to  90°.  At  sunset,  it  stood  at  83°,  and  quite  pleasant. 
Sky  filled  writh  cumulus  and  stratus.  A  little  after  8  P. 
M.,  wre  heard  the  song  sung  by  the  tribes  when  about  to 
meet  friends  or  enemies ;  in  the  first  instance,  a  song  of 
welcome  ;  in  the  last,  a  war-cry  of  defiance.  The  wild 
coronach  was  borne  upon  the  wind,  long  before  the  party 
singing  it  were  in  sight ;  but  presently,  fourteen  mounted 
Arabs,  headed  by  the  brother  of  Muhammed,  came 
proudly  into  the  camp.  The  camp  consisted  of  two 
boats’  awnings,  stretched  over  stakes,  to  screen  us  from 
the  sun  and  wind.  All  carried  a  long  gun  and  short  car¬ 
bine,  the  last  slung  over  the  shoulders,  except  one  Arab, 
a  kinsman  of  the  sheikh,  who  bore  a  spear  eighteen  feet 
long,  with  a  large,  round  tuft  of  ostrich  feathers  just  below 
the  spear-head.  Reining  up  before  us,  they  finished  theii 
song,  prior  to  dismounting  or  exchanging  salutations. 
The  war-cry  of  the  Arabs  was  the  only  true  musical  sound 
wre  heard  among  them,  although  they  frequently  beguiled 
the  tedious  hours  of  a  march  with  what  they  termed  a 
song.  The  following  notes,  by  Mr.  Bedlow,  will  give 
some  idea  of  their  war-cry. 


-  ff  9 

£9 _ _ 

-*  - 

A 

A 

&  & 

r  „ 

r  O  m  & 

r 

~  "  \  6 

[I 

\  r~ 

r 

1 

i  i  — i 

_! - 

DOUBTFUL  APPEARANCES  349 

These  few  notes  are  uttered  in  a  high,  shrill  voice,  and 
with  a  modulation  or  peculiarity  bearing  some  affinity  to 
the  characteristic  Yoddle  of  Tyrolean  music.  The  dis¬ 
tance  at  which  this  strange,  wild  war-cry  can  be  heard,  is 
almost  incredible. 

After  nightfall  the  wind  sprang  up  fresh  from  the 
northward.  We  made  a  lee  by  stretching  one  of  the 
boat’s  awnings  across,  and  lying  upon  the  beach  with  our 
heads  towards  it.  For  myself  I  could  not  sleep.  The 
conduct  of  Muhammed,  amounting  almost  to  impudence, 
filled  me  with  distrust.  He  had  come  down  with  about 
eight  men,  his  brother  with  fourteen  more,  and  by  two 
and  three  at  a  time  they  had  been  dropping  in  ever  since, 
until,  at  9  P.  M.,  there  were  upwards  of  forty  around  us ; 
and,  if  disposed  to  treachery,  there  might  be  many  more 
concealed  within  the  thicket.  It  seemed  as  if  Muhammed 
considered  us  as  already  in  his  power,  and  it  occurred  to 
me  at  times,  that  it  was  my  duty,  in  order  to  save  the 
lives  for  which  I  was  responsible,  to  depart  at  once ;  but 
two  considerations  determined  me  not  only  to  remain, 
but,  at  all  hazards,  go  to  Kerak.  The  second  day  after 
our  arrival  upon  this  sea,  I  had  sent  ’Aldl  to  the  Arabian 
tribes  to  announce  our  coming  and  to  make  arrangements 
with  them  to  supply  us  with  provisions.  He  had,  through 
great  peril,  and  at  considerable  loss,  made  his  way  along 
the  whole  eastern  coast,  and  as  directed,  announced  the 
coming  of  a  party  of  Americans,  people  from  another 
world,  of  whom  they  had  never  heard  before.  I  therefore 
felt  that  to  retire  now  would  be  construed  into  flight,  and 
the  American  name  be  ever  after  held  in  contempt  by 
this  people,  and  all  who  might  hereafter  sojourn  among 
them.  Moreover,  to  decline  an  invitation  for  which  we 
had  made  overtures  through  ’Akll,  might  hazard  his 
safety.  In  addition  to  these  considerations,  I  felt  satisfied 
that  if  not  invigorated  by  bracing  air,  even  for  one  da}/, 
30 


350 


IIEAVY  DEW. 


many  of  the  party  would  inevitably  succumb ;  and  I  pre¬ 
ferred  the  risk  of  an  encounter  with  the  Arabs  to  certain 
sickness  upon  the  sea,  with  its  result,  unaccomplished 
work.* 

Although  the  wind  was  high,  too  high  to  take  observa¬ 
tions  of  Polaris,  the  night  was  sultry;  thermometer  81°, 
the  dew  so  heavy  as  to  filter  through  the  awning  and  drop 
upon  our  faces.  This  is  the  second  time  we  have  experi¬ 
enced  dew  upon  this  sea,  each  time  with  a  hot  wind  from 
the  north.  It  probably  betokens  some  atmospheric 
change.  Then  it  was  succeeded  by  a  sirocco.  We  shall 
see  what  to-morrow  will  bring  forth.  This  is  our  fifteenth 
night  upon  this  sea.  Towards  morning  the  wind  lulled 
and  the  sky  became  clouded  and  the  weather  cool. 

Tuesday,  May  2.  Cloudy.  Called  all  hands  at  4  A.  M., 
and  set  off  at  5.30,  after  a  hurried  and  meagre  breakfast. 
The  sailors  were  mounted  on  most  unpromising  looking 
cradles,  running  lengthwise  along  the  backs  of  their 
mules,  while  our  horses  were  but  little  better  caparisoned. 
At  his  earnest  solicitation,  I  left  behind  Henry  Loveland, 
seaman,  who  was  apparently  one  of  the  least  affected  by 


*  My  misgivings  were  not  unfounded.  Just  before  our  final  departure 
from  this  place,  the  son  of  the  Christian  sheikh  told  us  that  the  Muslims, 
with  a  concealed  party  amounting  in  all  to  sixty,  had  determined  to  attack 
us  (of  which  the  Christians  dared  not  give  us  notice  at  the  time),  hut  as 
there  was  always  an  officer  and  two  men  on  guard,  one  of  them  posted 
beside  the  blunderbuss,  and  I  so  often  came  out  to  look  around,  they  fan¬ 
cied  that  we  suspected  their  design,  and  therefore  kept  quiet.  Armed  as 
we  were,  the  odds  would  have  been  against  them.  Each  sailor  had  a  car¬ 
bine  which  loaded  at  the  breech,  and  could  be  fired  with  great  rapidity,  and 
there  was  attached  to  it  a  steel  bayonet,  three  feet  long,  that  could  be 
drawn  out  at  will ;  and  each  one  carried  in  his  belt  a  pistol  with  a  deadly 
bowie-knife  attached.  The  officers  had  severally  a  carbine,  a  revolver  pis¬ 
tol,  and  a  sword,  three  of  the  last  having  pistol-barrels  attached  to  the 
blade  near  the  handle.  I  rejoice  that  we  had  no  serious  occasion  to  use 
them. 


EXCURSION  INLAND. 


35 


the  previous  heat.*  To  him  and  our  Bedawin  friend 
Jum’ah,  who  had  several  Arabs  with  him,  I  gave  strict 
charge  of  the  boats  and  all  our  effects. 

We  were  fourteen  in  number,  besides  the  interpreter 
and  cook.  The  first  I  believed  courageous ;  the  latter  I 
knew  to  be  an  arrant  coward.  Our  escort  consisted  of 
twelve  mounted  Arabs  and  eight  footmen,  the  rest  having 
gone  in  advance. 

We  struck  directly  across  the  plain  forming  the  base 
or  root  of  the  peninsula,  towards  the  lofty  ragged  cliffs 
which  overlook  it  from  the  east,  and  passed  many  nubk 
and  osher  trees,  and  fields  of  dried  stalks,  some  resem¬ 
bling  those  of  the  maize  and  others  the  sugar-cane.  The 
Arabs  said  that  sugar  was  not  cultivated  upon  this  plain ; 
but  these  stalks  were  the  product  of  cultivation,  were  un¬ 
like  the  dhoura  stalks,  and  very  much  resembled  the 
sugar-cane.  Crossing  the  stream  which  flows  down  the 
Wady  Beni  Hamad,  and  a  number  of  patches  of  dhoura 
(millet),  artificially  irrigated,  we  passed  close  under  a 
ruin  on  an  elevated  cliff,  which  overlooks  the  plain  of 
Zoar.  It  seemed  to  be  the  remains  of  a  fortalice  not 
more  ancient  than  the  times  of  the  Crusades.  We  would 
have  given  much  to  explore  the  plain  and  visit  the  ruin 
above,  but  circumstances  forbade  it.  It  was  essential  to 
inhale  the  mountain  air  as  soon  as  possible,  and  equally 
important  that  we  should  keep  together  to  guard  against 
treachery.  We  resolved  to  make  an  exploration  on  our 
return,  if  satisfied  that  we  could  do  so  with  safety. 

We  thus  far  passed  in  succession  the  loose  tertiaries  of 
the  peninsula ;  some  ferruginous  and  friable  sandstone,  a 
yellow  and  shaly  limestone,  clay-slate,  and  argillaceous 
marls. 

From  Wady  Beni  Hamad  we  skirted  along  the  base  of 

*  This  man  eventually  suffered  more  from  sickness,  and  his  life  was 
longer  in  jeopardy,  than  any  of  the  rest. 


352 


A  THUNDER  STORM. 


the  cliffs  for  about  two  miles  in  a  south  direction,  across 
the  neck  of  the  peninsula  towards  the  S.  E.  inlet  of  the 
sea,  and  crossing  the  bed,  turned  up  Wady  Kerak,  the 
steepest  and  most  difficult  path,  with  the  wildest  and 
grandest  scenery  we  had  ever  beheld.  On  one  side  was  a 
deep  and  yawning  chasm,  which  made  the  head  dizzy  to 
look  into ;  on  the  other  beetling  crags,  blackened  by  the 
tempests  of  ages,  in  shape  exactly  resembling  the  waves 
of  a  mighty  ocean,  which,  at  the  moment  of  overleaping 
some  lofty  barrier,  were  suddenly  changed  to  stone,  re¬ 
taining,  even  in  transformation,  their  dark  and  angry  hue. 
In  most  places  the  naked  rock  dipped  down  abruptly  into 
the  deep  and  gloomy  chasm,  and  it  only  required  a  tor¬ 
rent  to  come  tumbling  headlong  over  the  rude  fragments 
fallen  from  the  cliffs  above  to  complete  the  sublimity  of 
the  scene.  Nor  was  it  wanting. 

When  we  first  started,  it  was  so  cloudy  that  we  congra¬ 
tulated  ourselves  upon  the  prospect  of  a  cool  and  pleasant 
instead  of  a  sultry  ride.  While  passing  under  the  ruin, 
it  began  to  rain  lightly  but  steadily.  Before  we  had  half 
ascended  the  pass,  however,  there  came  a  shout  of  thunder 
from  the  dense  cloud  which  had  gathered  at  the  summit 
of  the  gorge,  followed  by  a  rain,  compared  to  which,  the 
gentle  showers  of  our  more  favoured  clime  are  as  dew- 
drops  to  the  overflowing  cistern.  Except  the  slight 
shower  at  the  Pilgrim’s  Ford,  this  was  the  first  since  we 
landed  in  Syria.  The  black  and  threatening  cloud  soon 
enveloped  the  mountain-tops,  the  lightning  playing  across 
it  in  incessant  flashes,  while  the  loud  thunder  rever¬ 
berated  from  side  to  side  of  the  appalling  chasm.  Between 
the  peals  we  soon  heard  a  roaring  and  continuous  sound. 
It  was  the  torrent  from  the  rain  cloud,  sweeping  in  a  long 
line  of  foam  down  the  steep  declivity,  bearing  along  huge 
fragments  of  rocks,  which,  striking  against  each  other, 
sounded  like  mimic  thunder.  In  one  spot,  where  the 


SUBLIMITY  OF  THE  SCENE.  353 

torrent  made  its  maddest  leap,  a  single  palm-tree,  bent 
by  the  blast,  waved  its  branches  wildly  above  the  gorge, 
seeming  to  the  imagination  like  the  genius  of  the  place 
bewailing  the  devastation  of  its  favoured  haunt.  During 
the  whole  of  this  storm,  our  rugged  path  led  along  the 
face  of  a  steep  precipice  looking  into  the  dark  grandeur 
of  the  chasm  beneath.  It  was  a  wild,  a  terrific,  but  a 
glorious  sight! 

44  It  more  stirs  the  blood 
To  rouse  a  lion  than  to  start  a  hare 

and  I  rejoiced  to  witness  this  elemental  strife  amid  these 
lofty  mountains.  How  much  more  exciting  and  sublime 
than  anything  a  monotonous  plain  presents !  I  have 
skirted  the  base  of  Etna,  clothed  in  the  luxuriant  verdure 
of  a  favoured  clime,  and  looked  upon  its  summit,  wreathed 
in  a  mantle  of  perpetual  snow,  while  the  smoke  from  its 
crater  gracefully  curled  above  it.  I  have  clambered  the 
cone  of  Vesuvius  by  nightfall,  and  looked  over  its  brink 
into  the  fiery  caldron  beneath ;  and  in  a  thunder-storm,  I 
once  launched  a  boat  at  the  foot  of  Niagara,  and  rocking 
in  the  foam  of  its  cataract,  marked  with  delight  the 
myriads  of  gems,  of  every  hue  and  radiance,  reflected  in 
the  misty  vapour  at  each  successive  flash ;  but  I  never 
beheld  a  scene  in  sublimity  equal  to  the  present  one. 

A  meandering  river  and  a  fertile  plain,  with  their  ac¬ 
companiments,  luxuriant  foliage  and  fragrant  odours,  in¬ 
terspersed  with  scenes  of  domestic  peace,  captivate  the 
eye  and  delight  the  senses.  But  the  boundless  ocean  or 
sky-piercing  mountains  are  necessary  to  the  grandeur  of 
sublimity ;  to  embody,  as  it  were,  to  the  mind,  and  enable 
it  to  realize  the  presence  of  a  great  Being  —  great  in  all 
things,  • —  but  seeming  to  us  most  potent  when  either  the 
“  live  thunder”  leaps  from  cliff  to  cliff,  or  “  He  rides  upon 
the  wings  of  the  mighty  wind”  across  the  illimitable 
waste. 


30* 


x 


354 


RUGGED  SCENERY. 


The  storm  gradually  subsided ;  the  cloud  which  had 
enveloped  the  mountain-tops  and  spread  itself  far  down 
the  chasm,  gathered  its  misty  folds  and  was  swept  by 
degrees  over  the  crest  towards  the  desert  of  Arabia ;  —  to 
refresh,  perchance,  the  arid  plains  from  its  yet  copious 
store. 

At  9.15,  bending  a  little  from  the  ridge  to  the  south, 
we  passed  a  small  stream,  trickling  down  in  a  N.  E.  course 
towards  the  wady.  Like  the  torrent,  the  stream  was 
doubtless  the  creation  of  the  shower.  The  general  im¬ 
pression  that  there  is  a  perpetual  stream  down  the  Wady 
Kerak,  is  an  erroneous  one.  The  Kerakiyeh  tell  us  that 
it  has  only  water  in  the  rainy  season,  and  for  a  short 
period,  at  other  times,  after  storms  like  the  one  which 
had  just  passed  over.  When  we  crossed  the  foot  of  the 
ravine,  there  was  no  water  in  it;  but  quite  a  considerable 
stream  in  the  Wady  Beni  Hamad,  whence  the  plain 
around  Mezra’a  is  irrigated.  Except  the  lone  palm,  we 
had  not  seen  a  tree  or  shrub  since  we  turned  up  the  side 
of  the  ravine ;  but  all  along  our  zigzag  path,  the  wildest 
rocks,  bare,  black,  and  contorted,  presented  themselves  in 
detached  fragments,  and  in  wondrous  strata,  —  mountain¬ 
sides  tumbled  down,  perpendicular  crags,  and  deep  chasms. 

At  9.25,  while  passing  along  the  edge  of  a  sheer  preci¬ 
pice,  the  weather  partly  cleared  up,  and  gave  us  a  terrific 
view  down  the  ravine ;  it  pained  the  eye  to  look  into  its 
dizzy  depths. 

At  9.45,  stopped  to  rest  at  a  small  spring  of  pure  water, 
which  gushed  out  of  a  liill-side.  The  elements  were 
not  yet  entirely  hushed,  the  wind  sweeping  down  the 
ravine  in  occasional  gusts.  Here  the  Kerakiyeh  amused 
themselves  by  firing  at  a  mark.  Approaching  to  pistol- 
shot  distance,  and  taking  rest  with  their  long  guns,  they 
rarely  hit  the  mark.  Their  powder  was  so  indifferent,  that 
one  of  our  sailors  contemptuously  remarked  that  a  gazelle 


PARTIAL  CULTIVATION. 


355 


could  run  a  mile  between  the  flash  and  the  report.  They 
were  perfectly  astonished  at  the  execution  of  our  rifle. 

At  10.30,  started  again,  the  road  leading  upon  a  wide 
terrace  over  the  valley ;  the  terrace  here  and  there  was 
almost  blocked  up  by  huge  fragments,  severed  from  the 
cliffs  above,  many  of  them,  also,  lying  in  every  possible 
position  in  the  valley  beneath.  Several  of  these  blocks, 
and  many  places  in  the  mountain-side,  were  hollowed  out, 
sufficient  in  some  places  to  shelter  many  persons.  These 
old  limestone-rocks  are  worn  into  caverns,  arches,  and 
the  resemblance  of  houses ;  an  isolated  block  was  exactly 
like  a  thatched,  moss-grown  cottage.  One  of  these  may 
be  the  cave  where  Lot  and  his  two  daughters  dwelt. 
About  two-thirds  up,  we  saw  some  of  the  retem,  or  broom 
plant/*  many  purple  hollyhocks,  and,  shortly  after,  some 
oleanders.  The  last,  which  were  in  full  bloom  high  up 
the  Jordan,  and  in  the  plain  below,  were  in  this  lofty 
region  just  beginning  to  bloom.  We  saw  some  partridges, 
hawks,  and  many  doves ;  also  much  of  the  scarlet  ane¬ 
mone,  and  a  blue  flower  resembling  the  convolvulus. 

At  11.30,  the  sides  and  bottom  of  the  ravine  betokened 
some  slight  cultivation ;  here  and  there  was  a  small  patch 
of  wheat,  and  higher  up  there  were  a  few  olive-trees. 
Gradually,  these  appearances  became  more  frequent ;  the 
patches  of  wheat  were  larger,  and  the  olive  in  occasional 
groves ;  sometimes,  too,  there  was  a  fig-tree,  its  green 
more  refreshing  to  the  eye  than  the  tawny  hue  of  the 
olive.  When  we  thought  that  we  were  upon  the  town, 
we  found  that  we  had  yet  a  long,  steep  hill  to  clamber  up. 
Here  we  came  to  a  fork ;  the  main  bed  of  the  ravine 
coming  down  from  the  east,  and  another,  broad  and  steep, 


*  This  plant,  elsewhere  a  bush,  is  here  quite  large ;  and  it  is  supposed 
that  it  was  under  a  retem,  instead  of  a  juniper-tree,  that  Isaiah  took  shelter 
in  the  desert. 


356  ENTRANCE  INTO  KERAK. 

from  tlie  south-east,  with  the  walled  town  of  Kerak,  upon 
the  crown  of  the  hill,  overlooking  both.  We  skirted  the 
last  ravine,  leaving  on  the  left  a  walled-in  fountain  and 
luxuriant  olive-groves,  and  continued  ascending,  for  half 
an  hour ;  an  extensive  pile  of  ruins  in  sight  at  the  S.  W. 
extremity  of  the  town,  and  a  majestic  quadrangular 
tower  at  the  N.  W.  angle  of  its  wall.  Looking  back,  our 
cavalcade  presented  a  singular  sight,  winding  up  the  steep 
and  sinuous  path.  After  leaving  the  peninsula,  and  turn¬ 
ing  up  the  precipitous  path  along  the  Wady  Kerak,  we 
met  with  fossiliferous  limestone,  and  the  rock  continued 
calcareous  all  the  way  to  Kerak. 

At  12.40,  came  upon  the  brow  of  the  hill  (3000  feet 
above  the  Dead  Sea)  at  the  north-east  angle  of  the  town. 
Instead  of  a  richly  cultivated  country,  there  was  before 
us  a  high,  rolling  plain,  the  grass  withered,  and  the  grain 
blighted  by  the  sirocco  and  the  locust.  Turning  to  the 
north,  we  passed  along  the  wall,  then  under  the  tower, 
built  of  flesh-coloured,  consolidated  limestone,  and  along 
the  face  of  the  western  wall  for  about  150  yards,  when, 
turning  abruptly,  we  entered  an  arch  cut  through  the 
rock,  about  thirty  feet  high  and  twelve  wide.  Over  the 
gateway  was  a  partly  effaced  Arabic  inscription,  recording 
the  building,  or  repair,  of  the  walls.  The  passage  had 
two  turns,  and  was  about  eighty  feet  long.  From  it,  we 
emerged  into  the  town,  —  a  collection  of  stone  huts,  built 
without  mortar.  They  are  from  seven  to  eight  feet  high ; 
the  ground-floors  about  six  feet  below,  and  the  flat-terrace 
mud-roofs  mostly  about  two  feet  above,  the  streets ;  but 
in  many  places  there  were  short  cuts,  from  street  to  street, 
across  the  roofs  of  the  houses.  The  people  were  assem¬ 
bled  on  the  dirt-heaps  and  mud-roofs  to  see  us  pass.  We 
were  escorted  to  the  council-house,  which  is  also  the 
Christian  school-room,  the  same  in  which  Irby  and  Man¬ 
gles,  the  only  Franks  who,  as  Franks,  had  preceded  us 


DESCRIPTION  OF  KERAK. 


357 


since  the  Crusades,  were  lodged  thirty  years  ago.  Below, 
was  a  work-room,  and  ours  was  a  room  for  all  purposes. 
Opposite,  was  a  Christian  church  under  construction.  Its 
walls,  now  about  twelve  feet  high,  measured  seventy-four 
by  forty  feet,  and  there  were  pedestals  laid  for  six  pillars. 

Our  room  had  nothing  whatever,  except  the  bare  stone 
floor  beneath  ;  the  rafters  supporting  the  mud  roof  above  ; 
two  windows  without  glass  or  shutters,  and  a  crazy  door 
without  a  fastening.  Assigning  one  side  to  the  men,  and 
taking  the  adjoining  one  for  ourselves,  we  left  the  other 
two  for  the  Arabs,  who  flocked  in  crowds  to  look  upon  us. 
From  some  cause  they  did  not  furnish  a  sheep,  although 
there  were  hundreds  in  the  vicinity. 

Through  the  exertions  of  the  priest  and  Abd’  Allah,  the 
Christian  sheikh,  we  procured  some  eggs,  and,  after  a 
scanty  breakfast  and  a  hard  ride,  our  dinner  consisted  of 
three  eggs  each. 

Determined,  at  all  hazards,  to  see  the  place,  we  went 
out  by  turns.  We  found  but  one  shop,  and  the  only 
articles  for  sale  were  thin  cakes  of  dried  and  pressed 
apricots,  and  English  muslin ! 

The  houses,  or  rather  huts,  without  windows  and  with¬ 
out  chimneys,  were  blackened  inside  by  smoke ;  and  the 
women  and  children  were  squalid  and  filthy.  Kerak  con¬ 
tains  a  population  of  about  300  families,  three-fourths 
Christian.  By  paying  an  annual  tribute,  and  submitting 
to  occasional  exactions,  the  latter  live  amicably  with  the 
powerful  tribe  of  Kerakiyeh,  whose  encampment  is  a 
short  distance  without  the  walls.  The  latter  are  so 
averse  to  houses,  that  some,  then  on  a  visit  to  the  town, 
had  pitched  their  tents  in  the  yards  of  vacant  dwellings. 

The  Muslim  inhabitants  are  wild-looking  savages,  but 
the  Christians  have  a  milder  expression.  The  males 
mostly  wear  sheepskin  coats ;  the  women,  dark-coloured 
gowns ;  the  Christian  females  did  not  conceal  their  faces, 


358  REMAINS  OF  THE  CASTLE. 

which  were  tattooed  like  the  South-Sea  islanders.  The 
priest,  in  his  black  turban  and  subdued  countenance, 
acted  as  our  cicerone.  He  took  us  to  his  little  church,  a 
low,  dark,  vaulted  room,  containing  a  picture  of  St. 
George  fighting  the  Dragon ;  two  half  columns  of  red 
granite  from  the  ruins  of  the  castle,  and  a  well  of  cool 
water  in  the  centre. 

The  castle,  partly  cut  out  of,  and  partly  built  upon,  the 
mountain-top,  presents  the  remains  of  a  magnificent  struc¬ 
ture  ;  its  citadel  cut  off  from  the  town  by  a  ditch-ravine. 
It  seems  to  be  Saracenic,  although  in  various  parts  it  has 
both  the  pointed  Gothic  and  the  rounded  Roman  arch. 
A  steep  glacis-wall  skirts  the  whole.  The  walls,  now 
partly  standing,  are  composed  of  heavy,  well-cut  stones ; 
and  there  were  seven  arched  store-houses,  one  above  the 
other,  with  narrow  slits  for  defence.  The  part  used  as 
the  chapel  was  evidently  built  in  the  times  of  the  cru¬ 
sades  ;  and  the  east  end,  where  the  altar  stood,  was  least 
demolished ;  for  these  buildings  have  been  devastated  by 
the  hand  of  man.  Maundrell  has  remarked  that  in  all 
the  ruined  churches  he  saw,  the  part  appropriated  to  the 
altar  was  ever  in  the  best  state  of  preservation ; — which 
he  is  at  a  loss  whether  to  ascribe  to  bribery  on  the  part 
of  the  Christians,  to  a  lingering  reverence  in  the  minds 
of  the  Turks,  or  to  miraculous  interposition.  Against  the 
walls  were  pilasters  and  parts  of  columns  with  sculptured 
ornaments,  and  upon  the  ceiling  were  traces  of  fresco  paint¬ 
ing,  among  them  one  of  a  female  saint.  In  one  place,  the 
pavement  had  been  dug  up  by  the  present  Christian 
inhabitants  of  Kerak  for  paving-slabs  for  their  new 
church.  The  vast  extent  of  this  magnificent  castle  filled 
us  with  astonishment.  It  has  five  gates  and  seven  wells 
and  cisterns,  and  the  whole  summit  is  perforated  by  sub¬ 
terranean  passages.  From  the  narrow  embrasures  of  the 
vaulted  chambers  we  looked  down  into  the  ravine,  green 


ARAB  EXPECTATIONS.  359 

with  fields  of  grain  and  grass,  and  the  shrubbery  of  olean¬ 
ders,  and  upon  part  of  the  sea  in  the  distance. 

We  also  visited  the  structure  at  the  N.  W.  angle,  under 
which  we  had  passed  before  entering  the  arched  gateway 
of  the  town.  It  seemed,  also,  to  be  Saracenic,  with  the 
remains  of  a  handsome  cornice. 

Returning,  we  passed  through  the  burial-ground,  each 
grave  indicated  by  a  double  line  of  rude,  unsculptured 
stones. 

We  procured  here  some  of  the  wheat,  which,  it  is  said, 
retains  the  prolific  quality  attributed  to  it  in  the  Bible. 
We  saw  and  heard  nothing  of  the  immense  grapes,  “  like 
those  brought  back  by  the  Hebrew  spies,”  spoken  of  by 
Laborde.  The  harvests  had  been  swept,  the  last  seven 
years,  by  the  locusts  and  the  sirocco ;  the  last  occurring 
two  or  three  times  a  month. 

P.  M.,  held  a  long  conversation  with  ’Akil  as  to  the 
possibility  of  proceeding,  by  land,  to  Wady  es  Safieh,  and 
its  luxuriant  delta,  at  the  S.  E.  extremity  of  the  sea.  He 
thought  it  impracticable.  He  said  that  the  southern 
tribes  were  in  a  great  state  of  excitement,  and  were  all 
coming  up ;  while  those  along  the  coast  were  gathering 
together,  and  that  a  general  outbreak  might  be  expected. 
The  Beni  ’Adwans  and  Beni  Siikrs  having  already  begun 
hostilities.  He  could  assign  no  other  reason  for  this  than 
that  the  grain  would  soon  be  gathered  by  the  fellahin, 
and  the  Bedawin  were  preparing  to  sweep  it  off,  each 
tribe  from  a  district  remote  from  its  own. 

In  some  respects  ’ Akll  was  mysterious ;  and,  at  first,  I 
could  not  comprehend  the  hints  he  threw  out.  His  object 
seemed  to  be  to  ascertain  whether,  under  any  circum¬ 
stances,  we  would  aid  an  association  of  the  tribes  in  an 
avowed  object.  I  would  not  press  him  for  an  explana¬ 
tion,  but  merely  told  him  that,  if  he  had  been  captured 
and  detained  while  coming  round  in  ouj  service,  we  would 


360 


PROBABLE  DESIGNS. 


have  felt  it  our  duty  to  have  left  every  thing  else  and 
hasten  to  his  assistance ;  that  I  would  endeavour  to  have 
him  remunerated  for  what  he  had  lost  while  acting  for 
us ;  but  we  could  take  no  part  in  their  petty  wars.  I 
half  suspected  that  this  barbarian,  the  most  winning  and 
graceful  one  we  had  ever  seen,  generous,  brave,  and  uni¬ 
versally  loved  or  feared,  contemplated  a  union  of  the 
tribes  for  the  purpose  of  throwing  off  the  thraldom,  here 
almost  nominal,  of  the  Turkish  yoke,  and  establishing  a 
sovereignty  for  himself.  Exceedingly  affable  to  all,  he 
was  more  reserved  and  taciturn  than  his  noisy  country¬ 
men,  and  was  often  absorbed  in  thought.  Having  once 
reaped  profit  from  rebellion,  he  might  then  have  been 
weighing  the  chances  of  a  bolder  speculation.  He  could 
not  rely  much  on  our  party,  but  might  hope  that  if  we 
were  involved  our  country  would  sustain  us.  He  little 
knew  how  severely,  and  how  justly,  too,  we  should  be  cen¬ 
sured  at  home  if  we  became  voluntarily  embroiled  either 
with  the  tribes  or  the  Turkish  government.  If  he  had 
attempted  a  rebellion,  he  would  have  assuredly  failed. 
The  elements  were  too  discordant.  The  antipathies 
between  the  highland  Gael  and  the  southron,  of  the 
Scottish  border,  were  not  more  inveterate  than  the  hostile 
feeling  existing  between  many  of  the  tribes.  With  some 
it  is  the  feud  of  blood,  transmitted  from  generation  to 
generation  with  increasing  rancour.  Yet  their  God  is 
gold,  and  fifty  well-armed,  resolute  Franks,  with  a  large 
sum  of  money ,  could  revolutionize  the  whole  country. 
The  presence  of  ’Akll  was  of  great  service  to  us ;  and  but 
for  him  we  should  have  come  in  collision  with  this  rude 
people. 

The  Christians  were  as  kind  and  obliging  as  the  Mus¬ 
lims  were  insolent.  In  order,  as  he  told  me,  to  secure 
the  good  behaviour  of  the  Kerakiyeh,  ’Akll  brought  with 
him  the  young  prince  of  the  Beni  Sukrs,  a  powerful  tribe, 


ARAB  DISCONTENT. 


361 


of  whom  even  these  fierce  Arabs  stood  in  awe.  The 
Beni  Siikr  wore  his  hair  in  ringlets,  like  a  girl ;  but  we 
were  told  that  he  behaved  gallantly  in  the  fight. 

To  avoid  another  encounter  with  the  Beni  ’Adwans,  on 
his  return,  ’Aldl  purposed  providing  his  small  party  with 
sufficient  flour  and  water  for  five  or  six  days’  subsistence, 
and  to  strike  into  the  desert,  in  a  direct  east  course,  for 
a  ruined  khan,  on  the  Great  Hadj,  or  pilgrim  route  from 
Damascus  to  Mecca.  Thence  he  would  proceed  north, 
still  keeping  east  of  the  Jordan,  until  he  reached  the 
vicinity  of  the  Sea  of  Galilee. 

It  being  absolutely  impossible  to  ascend  the  Jordan 
with  the  boats,  I  gave  ’Akll  a  note  for  Mr.  Wiseman,  at 
Tiberias,  directing  the  trucks,  &c.,  we  had  left  in  his 
charge,  to  be  sent  to  Acre. 

Our  trip  here  exhibited  the  Arab  character  in  a  new 
light.  From  the  first,  the  manner  of  Muhammed  had  been 
imperious  and  insolent ;  and  his  father,  whom  he  seemed 
to  rule,  had  neither  invited  us  to  his  tents  nor  contri¬ 
buted,  in  the  slightest  degree,  to  our  comfort.  The  reason 
was  because  we  did  not  make  them  a  large  present. 
According  to  the  arrangement  with  ’Akil,  he  was  to  pay 
for  all  that  we  might  require ;  and  I  held  to  the  course 
we  had  heretofore  pursued,  of  making  no  presents,  except 
for  kindness  or  for  services  rendered.  Muhammed,  growl¬ 
ing,  said  that  he  wanted  cloaks,  a  double-barrelled  gun,  a 
watch,  &c.,  that  other  Franks,  coming  up  from  Egypt, 
gave  them. — Where  did  we  come  from,  thus  out  of  the 
sea?  For  the  whole  day  the  room  had  been  crowded; 
the  doorway,  sometimes,  blocked  up.  It  seemed  to  be 
regarded  by  them  in  the  light  of  a  menagerie. 

When,  at  length,  they  left  us  to  ourselves,  for  the  first 
time,  in  twenty-three  days,  we  lay  down  beneath  a  roof, 
having  first  enjoyed  the  unwonted  luxury  of  a  draught 
of  sweet  milk.  Placing  a  board  against  the  door,  that  its 
31 


362 


CHRISTIANS  OF  KERAK. 


fall  might  rouse  us  at  an  attempted  entrance,  we  lay 
down  with  our  arms  in  our  hands,  with  a  feeling  of  uncer¬ 
tainty  as  to  what  the  morrow  might  bring  forth ;  for 
although  ’Alul  was  there,  he  had  hut  four  followers,  one 
of  them  wounded ;  whereas  the  Kerakiyeh  could  muster 
700  fighting  men.  Our  belief  was,  that  although  the 
Christians  might  not  dare  to  side  with  us,  yet,  so  far 
from  acting  in  combination  against,  they  would  give  us 
timely  warning.  At  all  hazards,  we  wished  to  impress 
upon  these  people  that  we  would  do  nothing  which  could 
be  construed  into  the  appearance,  even,  of  purchasing 
forbearance.  Were  we  private  travellers,  the  case  would 
be  different;  hut  the  time  has  long  past  when,  even 
through  its  meanest  representative,  our  government  will 
consent  to  pay  for  forbearance  from  any  quarter. 

In  the  course  of  a  long  conversation,  to-night,  Abd’ 
Allah  gave  us  a  history  of  the  condition  and  prospects  of 
the  Christians  of  Kerak.  He  said  that  there  were  from 
900  to  1000  Christians  here,  comprising  three-fourths  of 
the  population.  They  could  muster  a  little  over  200 
fighting  men ;  but  are  kept  in  subjection  by  the  Muslim 
Arabs,  living  mostly  in  tents,  without  the  town.  He 
stated  that  they  are,  in  every  manner,  imposed  upon.  If 
a  Muslim  comes  to  the  town,  instead  of  going  to  the 
house  of  another  Muslim,  he  quarters  himself  upon  a 
Christian,  and  appropriates  the  best  of  every  thing : 
that  Christian  families  have  been  two  days  at  a  time 
without  food — all  that  they  had  being  consumed  by  their 
self-invited  guests.  If  a  Muslim  sheikh  buys  a  horse  for 
so  many  sheep,  he  makes  the  Christians  contribute  until 
the  number  be  made  up.  Their  property,  he  said,  is  seized 
at  will,  without  there  being  any  one  to  whom  to  appeal ; 
and  remonstrance,  on  their  part,  only  makes  it  worse. 

Already  a  great  many  have  been  driven  away ;  poverty 
alone  keeping  the  remainder.  They  have  commenced 


AN  APPEAL  FROM  KERAK.  363 

building  a  church,  in  the  hope  of  keeping  all  together,  and 
as  a  safe  place  of  refuge  for  their  wives  and  children,  in 
times  of  trouble ;  but  the  locusts  and  the  sirocco  have  for 
the  last  seven  years  blasted  the  fields,  and  nearly  all 
spared  by  them  has  been  swept  by  the  Muslims.  They 
gave  me  the  following  appeal  to  the  Christians  in  our 
more  happy  land,  which  I  promised  to  make  known. 
The  following  is  a  literal  translation  : — 

“  By  God’s  favour  ! 

“  May  it,  God  willing !  reach  America,  and  be  presented 
to  our  Christian  brothers, — whose  happiness  may  the 
Almighty  God  preserve  !  Amen  ! 

a8642.  Beduah. 

“We  are,  in  Kerak,  a  few  very  poor  Christians,  and 
are  building  a  church. 

“We  beg  your  excellency  to  help  us  in  this  under¬ 
taking,  for  we  are  very  weak. 

“  The  land  has  been  unproductive,  and  visited  by  the 
locusts,  for  the  last  seven  years. 

“  The  church  is  delayed  in  not  being  accomplished,  for 
want  of  funds,  for  we  are  a  few  Christians,  surrounded 
by  Muslims. 

“  This  being  all  that  is  necessary  to  write  to  you,  Chris¬ 
tian  brothers  of  America,  we  need  say  no  more. 

“  The  trustees  in  your  bounty, 

“Abd’  Allah  en  Nahas,  Sheikh, 
“Yakob  en  Nahas,  Sheikh’s  brother. 

“Kerak,  Jaraad  Awah,  1264.” 

Wednesday,  May  3.  It  was  exceedingly  cold  last  night, 
the  north  wind  whistling  through  the  casement  with  a 
familiar  sound  of  home.  We  all  concurred  in  the  opinion, 
that  for  comfort,  the  sea-beach  would  have  been  a  prefer¬ 
able  couch,  the  fleas  having  tormented  us  through  the 


364  DEPARTURE  FROM  KERAK. 

night.  Notwithstanding  our  disturbed  slumbers,  how¬ 
ever,  we  did  not  feel  as  debilitated  as  heretofore  on  rising 
from  sounder  sleep.  The  exercise  of  riding  and  the 
variety  of  scenery  through  which  we  yesterday  passed, 
-were  of  service,  and  the  air  was  much  cooler  and  more 
invigorating  than  below. 

We  rose  early,  and  breakfasted  on  eggs  and  rice. 
Shortly  after,  Muhammed  came  in,  very  surly ;  I  refused 
to  converse  with  him,  but  referred  him  to  ’Akil,  wThom  I 
had  commissioned  to  procure  the  horses  and  make  the 
necessary  purchases  for  us.  We  would  have  liked  to  re¬ 
main  another  day  for  the  benefit  of  the  mountain  air  and 
to  make  some  examination  of  the  neighbourhood ;  but  we 
were  unanimously  of  opinion  that  it  would  be  unsafe, 
the  prospect  of  difficulty  with  this  insolent  people  increas¬ 
ing  with  the  lapse  of  every  hour.  While  we  made  pre¬ 
parations  for  our  departure  in  the  room  above,  the  Arabs 
were  in  consultation  beneath  the  window,  Muhammed 
and  several  of  his  tribe  gesticulating  violently.  But 
’Akil  and  the  Beni  Sukr  prince  were  there,  and  we  knew 
that  they  would  stand  by  us.  After  much  difficulty,  our 
horses  were  procured.  As  we  were  about  starting,  Mu¬ 
hammed  again  demanded  a  backshish,  which  was  refused. 
He  then  said  that  he  would  not  go  down  with  us,  and 
sneeringly  asked  what  we  should  do  if  we  found  one  hun¬ 
dred  men  in  our  path.  We  replied  that  we  would  take 
care  of  ourselves.  I  longed  to  seize  him  and  carry  him 
with  us  by  force  as  a  hostage,  but  he  was  surrounded  by 
too  many  armed  and  scowling  Arabs. 

We  started  at  6.30  A.  M.,  in  battle  array,  our  carbines 
unslung,  and  everything  ready  for  immediate  use.  The 
Christian  sheikh,  the  kind  old  man,  although  he  made 
enemies  by  doing  so,  accompanied  us,  and  three  or  four 
footmen  journeyed  along,  without  absolutely  mingling 
with  us.  Muhammed,  almost  furious,  remained  behind. 


PRECAUTION  AGAINST  TREACHERY.  365 

I  had  noted  well  the  ground  the  day  before,  and  knew 
that  there  was  no  place  above  the  plain  where  an  attack 
could  be  advantageously  made.  My  greatest  fear,  con¬ 
curred  in  by  the  Christian  sheikh,  was  that  any  one  lagging 
behind  would  be  cut  off.  Giving  to  Mr.  Dale,  therefore, 
who  ably  seconded  me,  the  charge  of  the  front,  I  kept 
with  the  rear.  We  had  scarce  left  the  town  a  mile,  before 
Muliammed,  black  and  surly,  with  some  horsemen,  over¬ 
took  us.  I  was  never  more  delighted  in  my  life,  for  we 
had  now  the  game  in  our  own  hands..  Instantly  detach¬ 
ing  an  officer  and  one  of  our  most  trusty  men,  I  directed 
them  to  keep  by  him  without  regard  to  his  companions, 
and  shoot  him  at  the  first  sign  of  flight  or  treachery. 

It  was  some  time  before  Muhammed  realized  that  he 
was  a  prisoner ;  but  observing  that  whether  he  rode  ahead 
or  tarried  behind,  he  had  ever  the  same  companions,  and 
that  if  he  stopped,  the  march  was  arrested,  and  the  whole 
party  stopped  also,  the  truth  flashed  upon  him  ;  and  from 
being  insolent  and  overbearing,  he  became  first  respectful 
and  then  submissive. 

The  march  was  delayed  at  one  time  by  an  unmanage¬ 
able  mule.  He  would  not  permit  the  sailor,  who  had 
slipped  off,  to  remount,  until  the  latter  assumed  the  koo- 
feyeh  and  aba  of  a  friendly  Arab.  We  saw  a  great  many 
black  and  white  storks,  in  companies,  and  some  black 
centipedes  and  grasshoppers. 

At  10.15,  came  in  sight  of  the  sea,  its  surface  covered 
by  a  thin  mist,  the  garment  in  which  it  is  ever  wreathed 
during  the  heat  of  the  day.  The  weather  became  warmer 
and  warmer  as  we  descended,  —  the  torrent  bed  of  the 
ravine  (Wady  Kcrak)  perfectly  dry. 

As  we  approached  the  plain,  I  placed  myself  beside 
Muhammed  to  watch  him  more  narrowly.  By  this  time, 
all  but  two  or  three  of  his  followers  had  ridden  ahead 
and  left  us.  When  he  first  ioincd  us  he  had  demanded  a 
31  * 


866  ARRIVAL  AT  THE  BEACH. 

watch,  then  a  double-barrelled  gun,  and  a  number  of  arti¬ 
cles  in  succession ;  but  when  be  saw  that  we  held  him  as 
a  hostage  for  the  good  behaviour  of  his  tribe,  he  changed 
his  tone.  About  an  hour  before  reaching  the  shore,  we 
stopped  fifteen  minutes  to  breathe  the  horses.  When  we 
were  about  to  remount,  he  had  become  so  much  humbled, 
that  perceiving  my  saddle-girth  loose,  he  hastened  for¬ 
ward  and  drew  it  tight  for  me.  In  the  morning  he  would 
have  cut  my  throat  rather  than  have  performed  a  menial 
office. 

At  1.30,  issuing  from  the  thicket  upon  the  beach,  we 
were  gladdened  with  the  sight  of  our  boats,  lying  as 
secure  as  we  had  left  them.  We  launched  them  and 
made  preparations  for  immediate  departure.  There  was 
nothing  longer  to  detain  us,  and  we  surmised  that,  per¬ 
haps  the  Arab  horsemen  who  left  us  had  gone  to  join 
others  concealed  in  the  plain.  At  the  instance  of  Abd’ 
Allah,  the  Christian  sheikh,  I  wrote  to  ’Akil  by  Friday, 
requesting  him  to  protect  the  Christian  Arabs  against  the 
Kerakiyeh ;  and  in  order  to  enlist  the  Beni  Siikr  prince  in 
the  same  cause,  I  sent  him  a  richly  ornamented  aba. 

Burckliardt,  and  Irby  and  Mangles,  were  kindly  received 
in  Kerak;  but  the  first  spoke  the  language,  and  came  dis¬ 
guised  as  an  Arab,  and  the  two  last  had  a  letter  of  intro¬ 
duction  to  the  Muslim  Sheikh  of  Kerak,  given  to  them 
by  the  Sheikh  of  Hebron,  without  which,  they  intimated 
that  their  reception  would  have  been  a  cold  one.  They 
had  to  pay  down  four  hundred  piastres  (equal  to  1600 
now),  and  on  the  second  day  of  their  journey,  while  yet 
under  the  protection  of  the  Sheikh  of  Kerak,  one  hun¬ 
dred  and  fifty  (equal  to  600  piastres)  more  were  exacted. 
From  Burckliardt,  who  had  assumed  the  garb  of  a  poor 
man,  all  was  extorted  that  it  was  thought  he  could  afford 
to  pay.  Seetzen  was  robbed  by  some  of  the  tribe  before 
he  entered  Kerak. 


THE  RIVER  ARNON. 


367 


Everything  being  prepared,  I  had  taken  leave  of  Abd’ 
Allah,  after  making  him  a  present,  and  was  about  stepping 
into  the  boat  without  saying  anything  to  Muhammed, 
when  he  sprang  forward,  and,  taking  my  hand,  begged 
for  some  gun-caps.  But  I  refused ;  for  had  they  been 
given,  perhaps  the  first  use  made  of  them  would  have 
been  against  a  Christian.  Getting  into  the  boat,  there¬ 
fore,  we  shoved  off,  and  left  him  standing  upon  the  shore. 
Thus  far,  these  were  the  only  Arabs  from  whom  we  had 
experienced  rudeness. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

CRUISE  ALONG  THE  ARABIAN  SHORE. 

We  started,  at  1.55  P.  M.,  with  a  light  breeze  from  the 
south,  and  steered  down  the  bay,  along  the  coast,  towards 
Wady  Mojeb,  the  river  Arnon  of  the  Old  Testament. 
The  shore  presented  the  barren  aspect  of  lofty  perpen¬ 
dicular  cliffs  of  red  sandstone,  and  here  and  there  a  ravine 
with  patches  of  cane,  indicating  that  water  was,  or  had 
recently  been,  there. 

At  4.45,  passed  a  date-palm-tree  and  some  canes,  their 
tops  withered,  at  the  foot  of  a  dry  ravine ;  soon  after,  saw 
an  arch,  twenty  feet  from  the  water,  spanning  a  chasm 
twelve  feet  wide.  The  mountains  of  red  sandstone  were 
beautifully  variegated  with  yellow  and  capped  by  high 
cliffs  of  white  in  the  background.  At  5.25,  stopped  for 
the  night  in  a  beautiful  cove  on  the  south  side  of  the 
delta,  through  which,  its  own  formation,  the  Arnon  flows 
to  the  sea.  The  stream,  now  eighty- two  feet  wide  and 


368 


RAVINE  OF  THE  ARNON. 


four  deep,  runs  through  a  chasm  ninety-seven  feet  wide, 
formed  by  high,  perpendicular  cliffs  of  red,  brown,  and 
yellow  sandstone,  mixed  red  and  yellow  on  the  southern 
side,  and  on  the  north,  a  soft,  rich  red,  —  all  worn  by  the 
winter  rains  into  the  most  fantastic  forms,  not  unlike 
Egyptian  architecture.  It  was  difficult  to  realize  that 
some  were  not  the  work  of  art. 

The  chasm  runs  up  in  a  direct  line  for  150  yards,  then 
turns,  with  a  slow  and  graceful  curve,  to  the  south-east. 
In  the  deepest  part,  within  the  chasm,  the  river  did  not 
at  that  time  exceed  four  feet  in  depth ;  but  after  passing 
through  the  delta,  narrowing  in  its  course,  it  is  ten  feet 
deep,  but  quite  narrow  at  the  mouth.  We  saw  here 
tracks  of  camels,  and  marks  of  an  Arab  encampment. 
There  must  be  some  passage  down  the  ravine,  the  sides 
of  which  seemed  so  precipitous.  There  were  castor-beans, 
tamarisks,  and  canes,  along  the  course  of  the  stream  from 
the  chasm  to  the  sea.  Fired  a  pistol  up  the  chasm; 
the  report  reverberated  finely  against  the  perpendicular 
sides.  Walked  and  waded  up  some  distance,  and  found 
the  passage  of  the  same  uniform  width,  turning  every 
150  or  200  yards  gradually  to  the  south-east.  Observed 
a  dead  gazelle,  and  saw  the  tracks  of  gazelles  and  of  wild 
beasts,  but  could  only  identify  those  of  the  tiger.  The 
report  of  a  gun,  which  we  fired,  reverberating  like  loud 
and  long-continued  peals  of  thunder,  startled  many  birds. 
The  highest  summit  of  the  inner  cliffs,  north  of  the 
chasm,  were  yellow  limestone.  Saw  a  large  brown  vul¬ 
ture,  its  beak  strong  with  two  denticulations.  After 
bathing  in  the  cool,  refreshing  stream,  and  supping  on 
rice  and  tea,  we  spread  our  awnings  upon  the  beach,  and 
slept  soundly  under  the  bright  stars.  At  midnight,  ther¬ 
mometer  78°,  wind  N.  W.,  and  very  cold.  George  Over¬ 
stock,  one  of  the  seamen,  had  a  chill  this  day.  We  feared 
that  the  fever  which  had  heretofore  attacked  all  who  had 


X-r 


SKETCH  OF  THE  SHORE.  369 

ventured  upon  this  sea  was  about  to  make  its  appearance. 
It  was  to  a  city,  “in  the  border  of  Arnon,”  to  which 
Balak,  king  of  the  Moabites,  came  to  meet  Balaam. 
From  the  Arnon  to  the  Jabbok,  “which  is  the  border  of 
the  children  of  Ammon,”  was  the  land  given  to  the  tribes 
of  Reuben  and  Gad. 

Thursday,  May  4.  A  warm,  but  pleasant  morning. 
Overstock  better,  but  I  feared  the  recurrence  of  his  chill 
the  next  day.  Started  at  6.50,  after  filling  the  water- 
breakers.  As  we  were  shoving  off,  heard  voices  and  two 
gun-shots  in  the  cliffs  above,  but  could  see  nothing.  Sent 
Mr.  Dale,  in  the  Fanny  Skinner,  to  sound  across  to  Ain 
Tiirabeh.  Our  course  was  northwardly,  parallel  with, 
and  a  short  distance  from,  the  Arabian  shore,  sketching 
the  topography  as  we  passed.  It  presented  the  same 
lofty,  rugged,  brown  parched  hills  as  heretofore.  At  8.40, 
a  beautiful  little  stream,  along  the  banks  of  which  were 
twenty-nine  date-palm-trees,  in  groups  of  two  or  three, — 
a  grateful  relief  to  the  monotonous  and  dreary  hue  of  the 
mountains  and  the  sea. 

At  9,  we  passed  a  stream  which  was  visible,  in  a  long 
white  line,  from  the  summit  to  the  sea,  into  which  it 
plunged,  a  tiny,  but  foaming  cataract.  Its  whole  course 
was  fringed  with  shrubbery,  and  its  brawling  noise  was 
distinctly  heard. 

At  10.37,  stopped  to  examine  some  huge,  black  boul¬ 
ders,  lying  confusedly  upon  the  shore,  which  proved  to 
be  trap  interspersed  with  tufa.  The  whole  mountain, 
from  base  to  summit,  appeared  one  black  mass  of  scoriae 
and  lava,  the  superposition  of  the  layers  giving  them  a 
singular  appearance.  In  the  rocky  hollows  of  the  shore 
were  incrustations  of  salt,  of  which,  as  well  as  of  the  lava, 
we  procured  specimens. 

At  10.50,  started  again, — the  scenery  grand  and  wild; 
wherever  there  was  a  rivulet,  lines  of  green  cane  and 

Y 


370 


HOT  SPRINGS. 


tamarisk,  and  an  occasional  date-palm-tree,  marked  its 
course  :  a  fine  breeze  from  the  southward.  At  12.20, 
stopped  in  a  cove  formed  by  the  Zerka  main,  the  outlet 
of  the  hot  springs  of  Callirohoe.  The  stream,  twelve 
feet  wide  and  ten  inches  deep,  rushes,  in  a  southerly 
direction,  with  great  velocity,  into  the  sea.  Temperature 
of  the  air,  77°;  of  the  sea,  78°;  of  the  stream,  94°;  one 
mile  up  the  chasm,  95°.  It  was  a  little  sulphureous  to 
the  taste.  The  stream  has  worn  its  bed  through  the 
rock,  and  flows  between  the  perpendicular  sides  of  the 
chasm,  and  through  the  delta,  bending  to  the  south,  about 
two  furlongs,  to  the  sea.  The  banks  of  the  stream,  along 
the  delta,  are  fringed  with  canes,  tamarisks,  and  the  castor- 
bean.  The  chasm  is  122  feet  wide  at  the  mouth ;  and, 
for  one  mile  up,  as  far  as  we  traced  it,  does  not  lessen  in 
width.  The  sides  of  the  chasm  are  about  eighty  feet 
high,  where  it  opens  upon  the  delta ;  but  within  they  rise 
in  altitude  to  upwards  of  150  feet  on  each  side,  where  the 
trap  formation  is  exhibited.  In  the  bed  of  the  chasm,  there 
was  one  stream,  on  the  south  side,  eight  feet  wide  and  two 
deep,  and  two  small  streams  in  the  centre,  all  rushing 
down  at  the  rate  of  six  knots  per  hour.  There  were  no 
boulders  in  the  bed  of  the  ravine,  which,  in  the  winter, 
must,  throughout  its  width,  and  high  up  the  sides,  pour 
down  an  impetuous  flood.  The  walls  of  the  chasm  are 
lofty  and  perpendicular,  of  red  and  yellow  sandstone, 
equally  majestic  and  imposing,  but  not  worn  in  such  fan¬ 
tastic  shapes,  nor  of  so  rich  a  hue,  as  those  of  the  Arnon. 
Waded  up  about  a  mile,  and  saw  a  few  date-palm-trees, 
growing  in  the  chasm.  The  turns,  about  200  yards 
apart,  at  first  gently  rounded,  but  subsequently  sharp  and 
angular.  There  was  a  succession  of  rapids,  and  a  cascade 
of  four,  and  a  perpendicular  fall  of  five  or  six  feet.  A 
little  above  the  rapid,  trap  shows  over  sandstone.  The 
current  was  so  strong  that,  while  bathing,  I  could  not,  with 


DISCONTENT. 


371 


my  feet  against  a  rock,  keep  from  being  carried  down  the 
stream ;  and,  walking  where  it  was  but  two  feet  deep, 
could,  with  difficulty,  retain  a  foothold  with  my  shoes  off. 
There  were  many  incrustations  of  lime,  and  some  tufa.  In 
the  loneliest  part  of  the  chasm,  nearly  trod  upon  a  spar¬ 
row  before  it  flew  away.  Had  this  been  a  settled  country, 
the  wee  thing  would  not  have  been  ignorant  that,  in  mere 
wantonness,  man  is  its  greatest  enemy.  Saw  a  white 
butterfly,  some  snipes  and  brown  hawks,  and  gathered 
some  heliotrope  (heliotropum  Europeum),  which  was 
scentless,  and  a  beautiful  purple  flower,  star-shaped,  five 
petals,  calix  and  seed-stalk  a  delicate  yellow.  Pulled  up  a 
species  of  willow  by  the  roots,  in  the  hope  of  preserving  it. 

At  7  P.  M.,  bathed  first  in  the  sea  and  afterwards  in 
the  stream ;  a  most  delicious  transition  from  the  dense, 
acrid  water  of  the  sea,  which  made  our  innumerable  sores 
smart  severely — to  the  soft,  tepid  and  refreshing  waters 
of  Callirohoe. 

The  water  of  the  sea  was  very  buoyant ; — with  great 
difficulty,  I  kept  my  feet  down ;  and  when  I  laid  upon  my 
back,  and,  drawing  up  my  knees,  placed  my  hands  upon 
them,  I  rolled  immediately  over. 

At  8  P.  M.,  we  had  half  a  cup  of  tea  each,  to  which  we 
were  limited  from  scarcity  of  sugar,  and  slept  upon  the 
gravel  until  2  A.  M. 

There  was  a  large  fire  on  the  western  shore,  in  the 
direction  of  Feshkhah.  Quite  cool  in  the  night ;  ther¬ 
mometer  ranging  from  70°  to  68°.  The  great  number 
submitted  cheerfully  to  privation,  but  a  few  looked  dis¬ 
contented  at  our  scanty  fare.  This  selfishness  was  painful 
to  witness.  If  ever  there  was  an  occasion  requiring  a 
total  exemption  from  it,  this  was  surely  one.  In  low 
minds  this  trait  betrays  itself  in  matters  of  the  stomach 
and  the  purse ;  in  those  less  sordid,  but  equally  unge¬ 
nerous,  in  the  gratification  of  sensual  love ;  and,  in  minds 


372 


MACHiERUS. 


more  aspiring,  but  no  less  unrestrained  by  principle,  in 
matters  of  ambition.  Esau  sold  bis  birthright  for  a  mess 
of  pottage ;  and,  for  a  few  pieces  of  silver,  the  reprobate 
sold  his  heavenly  Master  :  Charles  II.,  instead  of  fervent 
thankfulness,  spent  the  first  hours  of  his  restoration  in 
seducing  an  unhappy  lady  of  his  court;  and  Napoleon 
never  hesitated  to  sacrifice  a  friend  on  the  altar  of  his 
ambition. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

FROM  THE  OUTLET  OF  THE  HOT  SPRINGS  OF 
CALLIROHOE  TO  AIN  TURABEH. 

Friday,  May  5.  Rose  at  2  A.  M.  Fresh  wind  from 
the  north ;  air  quite  chilly,  and  the  warmth  of  the  fire 
agreeable.  It  was  this  contrast  which  made  the  heat  of 
the  day  so  very  oppressive.  Everything  was  still  and 
quiet,  save  the  wind,  and  the  surf  breaking  upon  the 
shore.  I  had  purposed  visiting  the  ruins  of  Machaerus, 
upon  this  singular  hot-water  stream,  and  to  have  exca¬ 
vated  one  of  the  ancient  tombs  mentioned  in  the  Itinerary 
of  Irby  and  Mangles,  the  most  unpretending,  and  one  of 
the  most  accurate  narratives  I  have  ever  read ;  but  the 
increasing  heat  of  the  sun,  and  the  lassitude  of  the  party, 
warned  me  to  lose  no  time. 

In  his  description  of  the  fortress  of  Machaerus,  rebuilt 
by  Herod,  Josephus  says,  “  It  was  also  so  contrived  by 
nature  that  it  could  not  be  easily  ascended ;  for  it  is,  as  it 
were,  ditched  about  with  such  valleys  on  all  sides,  and  to 
such  a  depth  that  the  eye  cannot  reach  their  bottoms,  and 


SOUNDINGS.  373 

sucli  as  are  not  easily  to  be  passed  over,  and  even  such  as 
it  is  impossible  to  fill  up  with  earth ;  for  that  valley  which 
cuts  it  off  on  the  west  extends  to  threescore  furlongs,  and 
did  not  end  till  it  came  to  the  Lake  Asphaltites ;  on  the 
same  side  it  was,  also,  that  Machserus  had  the  tallest  top 
of  its  hill  elevated  above  the  rest.” 

Speaking  of  the  fountains,  his  words  are,  “Here  are, 
also,  fountains  of  hot  water  that  flow  out  of  this  place, 
which  have  a  very  different  taste  one  from  the  other ;  for 
some  of  them  are  bitter,  and  others  of  them  are  plainly 
sweet.  Here  are,  also,  many  eruptions  of  cold  waters ; 
and  this  not  only  in  the  places  that  lie  lower  and  have 
their  fountains  near  one  another,  but  what  is  still  more 
wonderful,  here  is  to  be  seen  a  certain  cave  hard  by, 
whose  cavity  is  not  deep,  but  it  is  covered  over  by  a  rock 
that  is  prominent ;  above  this  rock  there  stand  up  two 
(hills  or)  breasts,  as  it  were,  but  a  little  distant  from  one 
another,  the  one  of  which  sends  out  a  fountain  that  is 
very  cold,  and  the  other  sends  out  one  that  is  very  hot ; 
which  waters,  when  they  are  mingled  together,  compose 
a  most  pleasant  bath ;  they  are  medicinal,  indeed,  for 
other  maladies,  but  especially  good  for  strengthening  the 
nerves.  This  place  has  in  it,  also,  mines  of  sulphur  and 
alum.” 

At  2.45,  called  the  cook  to  prepare  our  breakfast.  At 
3.40,  called  all  hands,  and  having 

u  Broke  our  fast, 

Like  gentlemen  of  Beauce,” 

started  to  sound  across  to  Ain  Turabeh,  thus  making  a 
straight  line  to  intersect  the  diagonal  one  of  yesterday. 
Two  furlongs  from  the  land,  the  soundings  were  twenty- 
three  fathoms  (138  feet).  The  next  cast,  five  minutes 
after,  174  (1044  feet),  gradually  deepening  to  218 
fathoms  (1308  feet)  ;  the  bottom,  soft,  brown  mud,  with 
rectangular  crystals  of  salt.  At  8  A.  M.,  met  the  Fanny 
32 


374  RETURN  TO  THE  TENTS. 

Skinner.  Put  Mr.  Aulick,  with  Dr.  Anderson,  in  her ; 
also  the  cook,  and  some  provisions,  and  directed  him  to 
complete  the  topography  of  the  Arabian  shore,  and  deter¬ 
mine  the  position  of  the  mouth  of  the  J ordan •  and,  as 
he  crossed  over,  to  sound  again  in  an  indicated  spot. 
Made  a  series  of  experiments  with  the  self-registering 
thermometer,  on  our  way,  in  the  Fanny  Mason,  to  Ain 
Turabeh.  At  the  depth  of  174  fathoms  (1044  feet),  the 
temperature  of  the  water  was  62° ;  at  the  surface,  imme¬ 
diately  above  it,  76°.  There  was  an  interruption  to  the 
gradual  decrease  of  temperature,  and  at  ten  fathoms  there 
was  a  stratum  of  cold  water,  the  temperature,  59°.  With 
that  exception,  the  diminution  was  gradual.  The  increase 
of  temperature  below  ten  fathoms  may,  perhaps,  be  attri¬ 
butable  to  heat  being  evolved  in  the  process  of  crys- 
talization.  Procured  some  of  the  water  brought  up  from 
195  fathoms,  and  preserved  it  in  a  bottle.  The  morning 
intensely  hot,  not  a  breath  of  air  stirring,  and  a  mist 
over  the  surface  of  the  water,  which  looked  stagnant  and 
greasy. 

At  10.30,  we  were  greeted  with  the  sight  of  the  green 
fringe  of  Ain  Turabeh,  dotted  with  our  snow-white  tents, 
in  charge  of  the  good  old  Sherif.  Sent  two  Arabs  to  meet 
Mr.  Aulick,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Jordan.  Sherif  had 
heard  of  the  fight  between  ’Aldl  and  his  friends  with  the 
Beni  ’Adwans ;  we  learned  from  him  that  several  of  the 
Beni  Sukrs  had  since  died  of  their  wounds,  and  that  the 
whole  tribe  had  suffered  severely. 

Reconnoitred  the  pass  over  this  place,  to  see  if  it  would 
be  practicable  to  carry  up  the  level.  It  proved  very  steep 
and  difficult,  but  those  at  ’Ain  Feshkhah  and  Ain  Jidy 
are  yet  more  so ;  and,  after  consultation  with  Mr.  Dale, 
determined  to  attempt  the  present  one.  Made  arrange¬ 
ments  for  camels,  to  transport  the  boats  across  to  the 
Mediterranean.  The  weather  very  warm. 


INTENSE  HEAT. 


375 


Saturday,  May  6.  A  warm  but  not  oppressive  morning; 
the  same  mist  over  the  sea;  the  same  wild  and  awful 
aspect  of  the  overhanging  cliffs.  Commenced  taking  the 
copper  boat  apart,  and  to  level  up  this  difficult  pass.  To 
Mr.  Dale,  as  fully  competent,  I  assigned  this  task.  With 
five  men  and  an  assistant,  he  laboured  up  six  hundred 
feet,  but  with  great  difficulty. 

At  9  A.  M.,  thermometer,  in  the  shade,  100° ;  the 
sky  curtained  with  thin,  misty  clouds.  At  11  A.  M., 
Mr.  Aulick  returned,  having  completed  the  topography 
of  the  shore,  and  taken  observations  and  bearings  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Jordan.  Dr.  Anderson  had  collected  many 
specimens  in  the  geological  department.  The  exploration 
of  this  sea  was  now  complete.  Sent  Mr.  Aulick  out 
again,  in  the  iron  boat,  to  make  experiments  with  the 
self-registering  thermometer,  at  various  depths ;  the 
result  the  same  as  yesterday  and  the  day  previous,  the 
coldest  stratum  being  at  ten  fathoms.  Light,  flickering 
airs,  and  very  sultry  during  the  night. 

Sunday,  May  7.  This  day  was  given  to  rest.  The 
weather  during  the  morning  was  exceedingly  sultry  and 
oppressive.  At  8.30,  thermometer  106°.  The  clouds 
were  motionless,  the  sea  unruffled,  the  rugged  faces  of  the 
rocks  without  a  shadow,  and  the  canes  and  tamarisks 
around  the  fountain  drooped  their  heads  towards  the  only 
element  which  could  sustain  them  under  the  smiting 
heat.  The  Sherif  slept  in  his  tent,  the  Arabs  in  various 
listless  attitudes  around  him ;  and  the  mist  of  evaporation 
hung  over  the  sea,  almost  hiding  the  opposite  cliffs. 

At  6  P.  M.,  a  hot  hurricane,  another  sirocco,  blew  down 
the  tents  and  broke  the  syphon  barometer,  our  last  re¬ 
maining  one.  The  wind  shifted  in  currents  from  N.  W. 
to  S.  E. ;  excessively  hot.  In  two  hours  it  had  gradually 
subsided  to  a  sultry  calm.  All  suffered  very  much  from 
languor,  and  prudence  warned  us  to  begone.  The  tern- 


376 


INCREASING  HEAT. 


perature  of  the  night  was  pleasanter  than  that  of  the  da y, 
and  we  slept  soundly  the  sleep  of  exhaustion. 

Monday,  May  8.  A  cloudy,  sultry  morning.  At  5  A.  M., 
the  leveling  party  proceeded  up  the  pass  to  continue  the 
leveling.  At  8,  the  sun  burst  through  his  cloudy  screen, 
and  threatened  an  oppressive  day.  Constructed  a  large 
float,  with  a  flag-staff  fitted  to  it. 

In  the  morning,  a  bird  was  heard  singing  in  the  thicket 
near  the  fountain,  its  notes  resembling  those  of  the  night¬ 
ingale  of  Italy.  The  bulbul,  the  nightingale  of  this 
region,  is  like  our  kingfisher,  except  that  its  plumage  is 
brown  and  blue,  and  the  bill  a  deep  scarlet.  We  cannot 
say  that  we  ever  heard  it  sing ;  but  at  various  places  on 
the  Jordan  we  heard  a  bird  singing  at  night,  and  the 
Arabs  said  it  was  the  bulbul. 

The  heat  increased  with  the  ascending  sun,  and  at 
meridian  the  thermometer  stood  at  110°  in  the  shade. 
The  Sherif’s  tent  was  dark  and  silent,  and  we  were  com¬ 
pelled  to  discontinue  work.  The  surface  of  the  sea  was 
covered  by  an  impenetrable  mist,  which  concealed  the 
two  extremities  and  the  eastern  shore ;  and  we  had  the 
prospect  of  a  boundless  ocean  with  an  obscured  horizon. 
At  1.30  P.  M.,  a  breeze  sprang  up  from  the  S.  E.,  which 
gradually  freshened  and  hauled  to  the  north.  Towards 
sunset  went  to  Ain  Ghuweir,  a  short  distance  to  the 
north.  So  far  from  being  brackish,  we  found  the  water 
as  sweet  and  refreshing  as  that  of  Ain  Turabeh. 

At  4  P.  M.,  the  leveling  party  returned,  having  leveled 
over  the  crest  of  the  mountain  and  300  feet  on  the  desert 
of  Judea.  They  had  been  compelled  to  discontinue  work 
by  the  high  wind.  The  tent  I  sent  them  was  blown 
down,  and  they  were  forced  to  dine  under  the  “  shadow 
of  a  rock.” 

Tuesday,  May  9.  Awakened  at  early  daylight  by  the 
Muslim  call  to  prayer.  A  light  wind  from  N.  E.  Sky 


ANALYSIS  OF  WATERS. 


377 


obscured ;  a  mist  over  the  sea,  but  less  dense  than  that 
of  yesterday.  Sent  Mr.  Dale  with  the  interpreter  to 
reconnoitre  the  route  over  the  desert  towards  Jerusalem. 
Pulled  out  in  the  Fanny  Skinner,  and  moored  a  large 
float,  with  the  American  ensign  flying,  in  eighty  fathoms 
water,  abreast  of  Ain  Ghuweir,  at  too  long  a  distance 
from  the  shore  to  be  disturbed  by  the  Arabs.  Sent 
George  Overstock  and  Hugh  Read,  sick  seamen,  to  the 
convent  of  Mar  Saba.  Wind  light  throughout  the  day, 
ranging  from  N.  to  S.  E. 

Nilsrallah,  sheikh  of  the  Rashayideh,  to  whom  I  had 
refused  a  present  before  our  work  was  complete,  said  to 
Sherif  to-day  that  if  it  had  not  been  for  him  (Sherif),  he 
would  have  found  means  of  getting  what  he  wanted,  inti¬ 
mating  by  force.  On  the  matter  being  reported,  he  was 
ordered  instantly  to  leave  the  camp.  On  his  profession  of 
great  sorrow,  and  at  the  intercession  of  the  Sherif,  he  was 
permitted  to  remain,  with  the  understanding  that  another 
remark  of  the  kind  would  cause  his  immediate  expulsion. 

Sent  off  the  boats  in  sections  to  Bab  el  Hulil  (Jaffa 
gate),  Jerusalem.  Tried  the  relative  density  of  the  water 
of  this  sea  and  of  the  Atlantic  —  the  latter  from  25°  N. 
latitude  and  52°  W.  longitude;  distilled  water  being  as  1. 
The  water  of  the  Atlantic  was  1.02,  and  of  this  sea  1.13. 
The  last  dissolved  fr,  the  water  of  the  Atlantic  and 
distilled  water  t5?  of  its  weight  of  salt.  The  salt  used  was 
a  little  damp.  On  leaving  the  Jordan  we  carefully  noted 
the  draught  of  the  boats.  With  the  same  loads  they 
drew  one  inch  less  water  when  afloat  upon  this  sea  than 
in  the  river.* 

The  streams  from  the  fountains  of  Turabeh,  Ain  Jidy, 
and  the  salt  spring  near  Muhariwat,  were  almost  wholly 

*  Since  our  return,  some  of  the  water  of  the  Dead  Sea  has  been  subjected 
to  a  powerful  microscope,  and  no  animalculae  or  vestige  of  animal  matter 
could  be  detected. 

32* 


378 


SUM  OF  OUR  LABOURS. 


absorbed  in  the  plains,  as  well  as  those  running  clown  the 
ravines  of  Sudeir,  Seyal,  Mubughghik,  and  Humeir,  and 
the  torrent  between  the  Arnon  and  Callirohoe.  Taking 
the  mean  depth,  width,  and  velocity  of  its  more  constant 
tributaries,  I  had  estimated  the  quantity  of  water  which 
the  Dead  Sea  was  hourly  receiving  from  them  at  the 
time  of  our  visit,  but  the  calculation  is  one  so  liable  to 
error,  that  I  withhold  it.  It  is  scarcely  necessary  to  say, 
that  the  quantity  varies  with  the  season,  being  greater 
during  the  winter  rains,  and  much  less  in  the  heat  of 
summer. 

At  8.30,  Mr.  Dale  and  the  interpreter  returned.  Before 
retiring,  we  bathed  in  the  Dead  Sea,  preparatory  to 
spending  our  twenty-second  and  last  night  upon  it.  We 
have  carefully  sounded  this  sea,  determined  its  geogra¬ 
phical  position,  taken  the  exact  topography  of  its  shores, 
ascertained  the  temperature,  width,  depth,  and  velocity 
of  its  tributaries,  collected  specimens  of  every  kind,  and 
noted  the  winds,  currents,  changes  of  the  weather,  and 
all  atmospheric  phenomena.  These,  with  a  faithful  nar¬ 
rative  of  events,  will  give  a  correct  idea  of  this  wondrous 
body  of  water,  as  it  appeared  to  us. 

From  the  summit  of  these  cliffs,  in  a  line  a  little  north 
of  west,  about  sixteen  miles  distant,  is  Hebron,  a  short 
distance  from  which  Dr.  Robinson  found  the  dividing 
ridge  between  the  Mediterranean  and  this  sea.  From 
Beni  Naim,  the  reputed  tomb  of  Lot,  upon  that  ridge,  it 
is  supposed  that  Abraham  looked  66  toward  all  the  land  of 
the  plain,”  and  beheld  the  smoke,  u  as  the  smoke  of  a 
furnace.”  The  inference  from  the  Bible,  that  this  entire 
chasm  was  a  plain  sunk  and  66  overwhelmed ”  by  the  wrath 
of  God,  seems  to  be  sustained  by  the  extraordinary  char¬ 
acter  of  our  soundings.  The  bottom  of  this  sea  consists 
of  two  submerged  plains,  an  elevated  and  a  depressed 
one  ;  the  former  averaging  thirteen ,  the  last  about  thirteen 


V 


HYPOTHESES. 


379 

hundred  feet  below  the  surface.  Through  the  northern, 
and  largest  and  deepest  one,  in  a  line  corresponding  with 
the  bed  of  the  Jordan,  is  a  ravine,  which  again  seems  to 
correspond  with  the  Wady  el  Jeib,  or  ravine  within  a 
ravine,  at  the  south  end  of  the  sea. 

Between  the  Jabok  and  this  sea,  we  unexpectedly  found 
a  sudden  breakdown  in  the  bed  of  the  Jordan.  If  there 
be  a  similar  break  in  the  water-courses  to  the  south  of 
the  sea,  accompanied  with  like  volcanic  characters,  there 
can  scarce  be  a  doubt  that  the  whole  Ghor  has  sunk  from 
some  extraordinary  convulsion ;  preceded,  most  probably, 
by  an  eruption  of  fire,  and  a  general  conflagration  of  the 
bitumen  which  abounded  in  the  plain.  I  shall  ever 
regret  that  we  were  not  authorized  to  explore  the 
southern  Ghor  to  the  Red  Sea. 

All  our  observations  have  impressed  me  forcibly  with 
the  conviction  that  the  mountains  are  older  than  the  sea. 
Had  their  relative  levels  been  the  same  at  first,  the  tor¬ 
rents  would  have  worn  their  beds  in  a  gradual  and  cor¬ 
relative  slope ;  —  whereas,  in  the  northern  section,  the 
part  supposed  to  have  been  so  deeply  engulfed,  although 
a  soft,  bituminous  limestone  prevails,  the  torrents  plunge 
down  several  hundred  feet,  while  on  both  sides  of  the 
southern  portion,  the  ravines  come  down  without  abrupt¬ 
ness,  although  the  head  of  Wady  Kerak  is  more  than  a 
thousand  feet  higher  than  the  head  of  Wady  Ghuweir. 
Most  of  the  ravines,  too,  as  reference  to  the  map  will 
show,  have  a  southward  inclination  near  their  outlets, 
that  of  Zerka  Main  or  Callirohoe  especially,  which,  next 
to  the  Jordan,  must  pour  down  the  greatest  volume  of 
water  in  the  rainy  season.  But  even  if  they  had  not  that 
deflection,  the  argument  which  has  been  based  on  this 
supposition  would  be  untenable ;  for  tributaries,  like  all 
other  streams,  seek  the  greatest  declivities  without  regard 
to  angular  inclination.  The  Yerrnak  flows  into  the  Jor- 


380  OUR  LAST  NIGHT  ON  THE  DEAD  SEA. 

dan  at  a  right  angle,  and  the  Jabok  with  an  acute  one  to 
its  descending  course. 

There  are  many  other  things  tending  to  the  same  con¬ 
clusion,  among  them  the  isolation  of  the  mountain  of 
Usdum;  its  difference  of  contour  and  of  range,  and  its 
consisting  entirely  of  a  volcanic  product. 

But  it  is  for  the  learned  to  comment  on  the  facts  we 
have  laboriously  collected.  Upon  ourselves,  the  result  is 
a  decided  one.  We  entered  upon  this  sea  with  conflicting 
opinions.  One  of  the  party  was  skeptical,  and  another,  I 
think,  a  professed  unbeliever  of  the  Mosaic  account. 
After  twenty-two  days’  close  investigation,  if  I  am  not 
mistaken,  we  are  unanimous  in  the  conviction  of  the 
truth  of  the  Scriptural  account  of  the  destruction  of  the 
cities  of  the  plain.  I  record  with  diffidence  the  conclu¬ 
sions  we  have  reached,  simply  as  a  protest  against  the 
shallow  deductions  of  would-be  unbelievers. 

At  midnight  the  scene  was  the  same  as  at  Ain  el 
Feshkhah,  the  first  night  of  our  arrival,  save  that  the 
ground  was  more  firm  and  the  weather  warmer ;  but  the 
sea  presented  a  similar  unnatural  aspect.  There  was 
also  a  new  feature  betokening  a  coming  change;  there 
were  camels  lying  around,  which  had  been  brought  in, 
preparatory  to  to-morrow’s  movement.  Heretofore,  I  had 
always  seen  this  animal  reposing  upon  its  knees,  but  on 
this  occasion  all  not  chewing  the  cud  were  lying  down. 
The  night  passed  away  quietly,  and  a  light  wind  spring¬ 
ing  up  from  the  north,  even  the  most  anxious  were  at 
length  lulled  to  sleep  by  the  rippling  waves,  as  they 
brattled  upon  the  shore. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


FROM  THE  DEAD  SEA  TO  THE  CONVENT  OF  MAR  ' 

SABA. 

Wednesday,  May  10.  A  clear,  warm,  but  pleasant 
morning.  Soon  after  daylight,  sent  Mr.  Aulick  and  Mr. 
Bedlow  to  Jerusalem  with  the  chronometers,  to  make  ob¬ 
servations  for  ascertaining  their  rate.  At  7  A.  M.,  the 
levelling  party  started.  Made  preparations  for  finally 
breaking  up  the  camp  on  the  Dead  Sea. 

At  9.30,  struck  tents,  and  at  10,  started,  and  ascended 
the  pass  of  Ain  Turabeh.  With  us  were  Sherif,  Ibrahim 
Aga,  and  the  sheikhs  of  the  Raschayideh  and  Ta’amirah, 
and  six  camels.  Winding  slowly  up  the  steep  pass,  we 
looked  back  at  every  turn  upon  our  last  place  of  encamp¬ 
ment,  and  upon  the  silent  sea.  We  are  ever  sad  on  part¬ 
ing  with  things  for  the  last  time.  The  feeling  that  we 
are  never  to  see  them  again,  makes  us  painfully  sensible 
of  our  own  mortality. 

At  12,  overtook  the  levelling  party,  and  shortly  after 
the  camels  with  the  sections  of  the  boats.  At  1.15  P.  M., 
camped  in  Wady  Khiyam  Seyarah  (Ravine  of  the  Tents 
of  Seya’rah),  so  called  from  a  tribe  of  that  name  having 
been  surprised  and  murdered  here.  It  is  a  rocky  glen, 
over  a  steep  precipice,  a  thousand  feet  above  the  Dead 
Sea.  There  are  two  large  caves  on  the  north  side  of  the 
ravine,  in  which  we  prepared  to  take  up  our  quarters, 
but  the  Arabs  dissuaded  us  with  the  assurance  that  they 
abound  with  serpents  and  scorpions,  which  crawl  out  in 
the  night. 

Our  camp  was,  properly  speaking,  in  a  depression  of  the 

(381) 


382  HISTORY  OF  SHERIF. 

extremity  of  the  ridge  between  the  ravines  Ghuweir  and 
En  Nar. 

At  night,  we  invited  Sherif  to  our  tent,  and  prevailed 
on  him  to  tell  his  history.  His  father  was  Sherif,  or 
hereditary  governor  of  Mecca,  to  which  dignity,  at  his 
death,  the  eldest  brother  of  our  friend  succeeded.  When 
Mecca  surrendered  to  Mehemet  Ali,  his  brother  was  de¬ 
posed  ;  and  a  cousin,  inimical  to  them,  was  appointed  in 
his  stead.  The  deposed  Sherif  fled  to  Constantinople ; 
our  friend  was  carried  captive  to  Cairo,  where  he  was 
detained  ten  years  a  prisoner,  but  provided  with  a  house, 
and  an  allowance  of  3000  piastres  (125  dollars)  per  month 
for  his  support.  When  Arabia  was  overrun  by  the  Wa- 
habees,  Mehemet  Ali,  wisely  counting  on  sectarian  ani¬ 
mosity,  gave  our  Sherif  a  command,  and  sent  him  to  the 
war.  His  person  bears  many  marks  of  wounds  he  received 
in  various  actions.  When  Mehemet  Ali  was  compelled 
by  the  quintuple  alliance  to  abandon  his  conquests,  our 
Sherif  went  to  Egypt  to  claim  his  pay,  and  reimburse¬ 
ments  for  advances  he  had  made.  Put  off  with  vague 
promises,  he  proceeded  to  Stambohl  (Constantinople)  to 
sue  for  redress,  and  having  laid  his  application  before  the 
divan,  was  now  awaiting  the  decision.  His  account  of  him¬ 
self  is  sustained  by  the  information  we  received  from  our 
Eice-Consul  and  Mr.  Fingie,  H.  B.  M.  Vice-Consul  at  Acre, 
respecting  him.  He  is  intelligent  and  much  reverenced, 
and,  in  consequence,  very  influential  among  the  tribes. 
To  him  and  to  ’Akil,  coupled  with  our  own  vigilance,  we 
may  in  a  great  measure  ascribe  our  not  having  encoun¬ 
tered  difficulty  with  the  Arabs.  He  was  to  leave  us  the 
next  day,  and  would  carry  with  him  our  respect  and  fer¬ 
vent  good  wishes.  We  often  remarked  among  ourselves, 
what  should  we  have  done  without  Sherif  and  ’Aldl ;  we 
have  not  the  slightest  doubt  that  their  presence  pre¬ 
vented  bloodshed. 


A  monk  from  the  Convent  of  Mar  Saba  came  in  this 
evening,  and  brought  word  that  our  sick  sailors  were 
doing  well.  There  seemed  to  be  a  good  understanding 
between  these  religious  and  the  various  tribes ;  at  night, 
an  Arab  shared  his  aba  with  the  monk,  and  the  shaven- 
crown  of  the  Christian  and  the  scalp-lock  of  the  Muslim 
were  covered  by  the  same  garment. 

In  a  few  hours  we  had  materially  changed  our  climate, 
and  in  this  elevated  region  the  air  was  quite  cool.  We 
slept  delightfully,  drawing  our  cloaks  yet  closer  as  the 
night  advanced.  At  4  A.  M.,  thermometer  60° ;  abso¬ 
lutely  cold. 

We  were  in  a  most  dreary  country;  calcined  hills  and 
barren  valleys,  furrowed  by  torrent  beds,  all  without  a 
tree  or  shrub,  or  sign  of  vegetation.  The  stillness  of 
death  reigned  on  one  side ;  the  sea  of  death,  calm  and 
curtained  in  mist,  lay  upon  the  other;  and  yet  this  is  the 
most  interesting  country  in  the  world.  This  is  the  wil¬ 
derness  of  Judea;  near  this,  God  conversed  with  Abra¬ 
ham;  and  here,  came  John  the  Baptist,  preaching  the 
glad  tidings  of  salvation.  These  verdureless  hills  and 
arid  valleys  have  echoed  the  words  of  the  Great  Pre¬ 
cursor;  and  at  the  head  of  the.  next  ravine  lies  Bethle¬ 
hem,  the  birth-place  of  the  meek  Kedeemer, — in  full 
sight  of  the  Holy  City,  the  theatre  of  the  most  wondrous 
events  recorded  on  the  page  of  history, — where  that  self- 
sacrifice  was  offered,  which  became  thenceforth  the  seal 
of  a  perpetual  covenant  between  God  and  man ! 

Thursday,  May  11.  There  is,  perhaps,  no  greater  trial 
to  the  constitution  than  sudden  changes  of  atmospheric 
temperature;  in  other  words,  of  climate.  We  were  so 
enfeebled  by  the  heat  we  had  experienced  in  the  chasm 
beneath  us,  that,  at  the  temperature  of  60°,  the  air  here 
felt  piercingly  cold.  We  had  shivered  through  the  night  ; 
and  so  busy  had  been  the  sentinels  in  searching  for  dried 


384 


LOWER  TEMPERATURE. 


thistles  and  shrubs,  to  feed  the  watch-fires,  that,  perhaps, 
in  all  our  wanderings,  the  guard  had  never  been  so 
remiss. 

We  began,  early,  to  prepare  for  work,  and  sent  off  three 
camel-loads  of  specimens,  &c.,  to  Jerusalem.  Settled  and 
parted  with  the  good  Sherif. 

Breakfasted  in  the  rocky  glen,  with  our  backs  towards 
the  barren  hills  of  the  Desert  of  J udea ;  while  the  rays  of 
the  sun,  rising  over  the  mountains  of  Moab,  were  reflected 
from  the  glassy  surface  of  the  desolate  sea  before  us. 

We  levelled,  to-day,  over  parched  valleys,  and  sterile 
ridges,  to  the  flattened  summit  of  an  elevation,  at  the 
base  of  which  three  ravines  meet,  called  the  66  Meeting  of 
the  Tribes,” — the  Dead  Sea  concealed  by  an  intervening 
ridge.  We  were  fully  2000  feet  above  it,  and  the  wind 
was  fierce  and  cutting.  Strolling  from  the  camp,  soon 
after  we  had  pitched  the  tents,  I  felt  so  cold  as  to  be  com¬ 
pelled  to  return  to  my  tent.  The  thermometer,  at  the 
opening,  stood  at  69°;  but  7°  below  summer-heat.  This 
place  derives  its  name  from  a  gathering  of  the  tribes,  or 
council,  once  held  here.  We  saw,  to-day,  a  light-brown 
fox,  with  a  white  tail. 

Friday,  May  12.  The  morning  and  the  evening  cool ; 
the  mid-day  warm.  Levelled  into  and  up  the  Wady  en 
Nar  (Ravine  of  Fire)  to  the  Greek  Convent  of  Mar  Saba. 
The  ravine  was  shut  in,  on  each  side,  by  high,  barren 
cliffs  of  chalky  limestone,  which,  while  they  excluded  the 
air,  threw  their  reverberated  heat  upon  us,  and  made  the 
day’s  work  an  uncomfortable  one.  There  was  an  asso¬ 
ciation  connected  with  the  scene,  however,  which  sus¬ 
tained  us  under  the  blinding  light  and  oppressive  heat 
of  noon.  The  dry  torrent-bed,  interrupted  by  boulders, 
and  covered  with  fragments  of  stone,  is  the  channel  of  the 
brook  Kidron,  which,  in  its  season,  flows  by  the  walls  of 
the  Holy  City. 


CONVENT  OF  MAR  SABA. 


385 


The  approach  to  the  convent  is  striking,  from  the  lofty, 
perpendicular  cliffs  on  each  side,  perforated  with  a  great 
many  natural  and  artificial  excavations.  Immense  labour, 
sustained  by  a  fervent  though  mistaken  zeal,  must  have 
been  expended  here. 

A  perpendicular  cliff,  of  about  400  feet,  has  its  face 
covered  with  walls,  terraces,  chapels,  and  churches,  con¬ 
structed  of  solid  masonry,  all  now  in  perfect  repair.  The 
walls  of  this  convent,  with  a  semicircular-concave  sweep, 
run  along  the  western  bank  of  the  ravine,  from  the  bottom 
to  the  summit.  The  buildings  form  detached  parts,  con¬ 
structed  at  different  periods. 

At  3.30  P.  M.,  coming  up  from  the  ravine,  we  descended 
an  inclined  wady,  and  camped  outside  of  the  western  gate 
of  the  convent,  under  a  broad  ledge  of  rock,  forming  the 
head  of  a  lateral  ravine,  running  into  the  main  one.  A 
narrow  platform  was  before  us,  with  a  sheer  descent  from 
its  edge  to  the  bottom  of  the  small  ravine,  which  bore  a 
few  scattering  fig-trees.  We  were  earnestly  invited  to 
take  up  our  quarters  inside ;  but,  dreading  the  fleas,  we 
preferred  the  open  air.  There  was  a  lofty  look-out  tower 
on  the  hill  above  us,  to  the  south. 

At  the  foot  of  a  slight  descent,  about  pistol-shot  dis¬ 
tance,  was  a  low  door,  through  which  we  were  admitted 
to  visit  the  convent.  By  the  meagre  monk  who  let  us 
in,  we  were  conducted  through  a  long  passage,  and  down 
two  flights  of  stairs,  into  a  court  paved  with  flags ;  on  the 
right  centre  of  which  stood  a  small,  round  chapel,  con¬ 
taining  the  tomb  of  St.  Saba.  On  the  opposite  side  was 
the  church,  gorgeously  gilded  and  adorned  with  panel  and 
fresco  paintings ;  the  former  enshrined  in  silver,  and  some 
of  them  good;  the  latter,  mere  daubs.  The  pavement 
was  smooth,  variegated  marble ;  there  were  two  clocks, 
near  the  altar;  and  two  large,  rich,  golden  chandeliers, 
and  many  ostrich-eggs,  suspended  from  the  ceiling. 

33  z 


386  INTERIOR  OF  THE  CONVENT. 

From  the  court  we  were  led  along  a  terraced  walk, 
parallel  with  the  ravine,  with  some  pomegranate-trees 
and  a  small  garden-patch  on  each  side ;  and,  ascending  a 
few  steps,  turned  shortly  to  the  left,  and  were  ushered 
into  the  parlour,  immediately  over  the  chasm.  The 
adjoining  room  was  occupied  by  our  two  sick  men,  of 
whom  admirable  care  had  been  taken,  and  we  rejoiced  to 
find  that  they  were  convalescent.  The  parlour  was 
about  sixteen  by  twenty-four  feet,  almost  entirely  car¬ 
peted,  with  a  slightly-elevated  divan  on  two  sides.  The 
stinted  pomegranate-trees  and  the  few  peppers  growing 
in  the  mimic  garden  were  refreshing  to  the  eye ;  and, 
after  a  lapse  of  twenty-two  days,  we  enjoyed  the  luxury 
of  sitting  upon  chairs. 

From  the  flat,  terrace  roofs,  are  stairways  of  cut  stone, 
leading  to  excavations  in  the  rock,  which  are  the  habita¬ 
tions  of  the  monks.  We  visited  one  of  them,  high  up  the 
impending  cliff.  It  consisted  of  two  cells,  the  inner  one 
mostly  the  work  of  the  present  tenant.  They  were  then 
dry  and  comfortable,  but  in  the  rainy  season  must  be 
exceedingly  damp  and  unwholesome. 

Within  the  convent,  we  were  told  that  there  are  seventy 
wells,  and  numerous  cisterns,  with  abundance  of  rain¬ 
water.  There  are  many  flights  of  stairs,  corridors,  and 
cells;  among  the  last,  that  of  John  of  Damascus.  A  lofty 
tower  shoots,  shaft-like,  from  the  northern  angle,  and  a 
lone  palm-tree  rears  its  graceful  form  beside  it.  Near  the 
chapel  of  St.  Saba,  is  a  singular  cemetery,  containing  a 
great  many  skulls,  piled  against  the  walls, — a  sad  memorial 
of  an  act  of  cruelty  on  the  part  of  the  Turks  and  the  Per¬ 
sians; — Chosroes,  king  of  Persia,  having,  in  the  sixth  cen¬ 
tury,  put  to  death  a  number  of  monks,  whose  skulls  are 
collected  here.  The  room  is  excavated  in  the  rock,  and 
may  have  the  preservative  qualities  such  a  legend  would 
infer.  In  times  of  scarcity,  the  Arabs  throng  here  for 


EGRESS  FROM  THE  CONVENT.  387 

food,  which  is  given  to  them  gratuitously;  and  to  this, 
doubtless,  is  attributable  the  popularity  of  the  inmates  of 
the  convent  with  the  wandering  tribes.  The  monks  live 
solely  upon  a  vegetable  diet.  There  are  about  thirty  in 
the  convent,  including  lay-brothers,  and,  except  a  few 
from  Russia,  they  are  all  Greeks.  They  are  good-natured, 
illiterate,  and  credulous.  The  archbishop,  from  Jeru¬ 
salem,  looked  like  a  being  of  a  superior  order  among 
them,  and,  in  his  pontifical  attire,  presented  an  imposing 
appearance. 

The  interior  of  the  convent  is  far  more  extensive  than 
one  would  suppose,  looking  upon  it  from  the  western  side, 
whence  only  the  tower,  the  top  of  the  church,  and  a  part 
of  the  walls,  are  visible. 

There  is  egress  from  the  convent  to  the  ravine  by 
means  of  a  ladder,  which,  at  will,  is  let  down  from  a  low, 
arched  door.  The  sight,  from  the  bottom  of  the  ravine, 
is  one  well  calculated  to  inspire  awe.  The  chasm  is  here 
about  600  feet  wide  and  400  deep,  —  a  broad,  deep  gorge, 
or  fissure,  between  lofty  mountains,  the  steep  and  barren 
sides  of  which  are  furrowed  by  the  winter  rains.  There 
are  many  excavations  in  the  face  of  the  cliffs,  on  both 
sides  of  the  ravine,  below  the  convent.  One  of  them  has 
evidently  been  a  chapel,  and  on  its  walls  are  carved  the 
names  of  many  pilgrims,  mostly  Greeks,  from  1665  to  1674, 
and,  after  the  lapse  of  upwards  of  a  century,  from  1804  to 
1843.  A  little  above  the  convent,  on  the  west  side,  half¬ 
way  up,  on  the  abrupt  face  of  the  precipice,  are  the  ruins 
of  a  building,  a  chapel  or  a  fortress.  One  story  is  stand¬ 
ing,  with  a  tower,  pierced  with  loop-holes.  The  nume¬ 
rous  excavations  present  a  most  singular  appearance ; 
and,  looking  upon  them,  one  expects  every  moment  to 
see  the  inmates  come  forth.  It  is  a  city  of  caverns. 

We  walked  some  distance  up  the  bed  of  the  Kidron, 
and  encountered  several  precipices  from  ten  to  twelve 


388  BOTANICAL  SPECIMENS. 

feet  high,  down  which  cataracts  plunge  in  winter.  It 
will  be  difficult,  but  not  impracticable,  to  level  this  torrent 
bed.  Collected  some  fossils,  and  a  few  flowers,  for  preser¬ 
vation.  Even  at  this  early  season,  the  scanty  vegetation, 
scattered  here  and  there  in  the  ravines  of  the  desert  of 
Judea,  was  already  parched  and  withered.  There  were 
but  few  flowers  within  this  ravine ;  the  scarlet  anemone 
and  the  purple  blossom  of  the  thistle  being  the  prevailing 
ones.  We  gathered  one,  however,  which  was  star-shaped; 
the  leaves  white  near  the  stem,  but  blue  above,  and  the 
seed-stalks  yellow,  with  white  heads.  A  few  leaves 
nearest  the  flower  were  green,  but  the  rest,  with  the  stalk, 
were  parched  and  dry.  It  was  inodorous,  and,  like  beauty 
without  virtue,  fair  and  attractive  to  the  eye,  but  crum¬ 
bling  from  rottenness  in  the  hands  of  him  who  admiringly 
plucks  it.  In  this  ravine,  from  the  Dead  Sea  to  the  bor¬ 
ders  of  cultivation,  we  have,  besides,  gathered  for  our 
herbarium,  the  blue  weed,  so  well  known  in  Maryland 
and  Virginia  for  its  destructive  qualities;  the  white  hen¬ 
bane  ;  the  dyer’s  weed,  used  in  Europe  for  dyeing  green 
and  yellow ;  the  dwarf  mallow,  commonly  called  cresses, 
and  the  caper  plant,  the  unopened  flower-buds  of  which, 
preserved  in  vinegar,  are  so  much  used  as  a  condiment. 

R.  E.  Griffith,  M.  D.,  of  Philadelphia,  with  whom  our 
botanical  collection  has  been  placed  for  classification, 
cites  an  opinion,  supported  by  strong  argument,  that  the 
last-named  plant  is  the  hyssop  of  Scripture. 

During  the  night,  we  had  a  severe  thunder  storm,  with 
a  slight  shower  of  rain.  One  of  the  camels,  in  its  fright, 
fell  into  the  ravine  before  the  caverns  where  we  slept, 
and  kept  us  long  awake  with  its  discordant  cries.  The 
animal  was  unhurt;  but  the  Arabs  tortured  it,  by 
their  fruitless  endeavours  to  extricate  it  in  the  dark. 
They  were  alike  deaf  to  advice,  entreaties,  and  com¬ 
mands,  until  one  of  the  sentries  was  ordered  to  charge 


;  \  ■ 

- 

- 


■ 


, 

. 


- 


A  ROCK-HEWN  CISTERN.  389 

upon  them,  when  they  hurriedly  dispersed,  and  the  poor 
camel  and  ourselves  were  left  in  quietude. 

Saturday,  May  13.  Calm  and  cloudy.  6  A.  M.,  ther¬ 
mometer  68°.  It  had  been  53°  during  the  night,  and  79° 
at  11  A.  M.  the  preceding  day.  Deferred  levelling  any 
farther,  until  we  had  reconnoitred  the  two  routes  to  J eru- 
salem.  The  one  up  the  ravine,  although  presenting  great 
difficulties,  proved  more  practicable  than  the  route  we  had 
come.  Let  all  hands  rest  until  Monday.  Extricated  the 
camel  from  the  ravine. 

Sunday,  May  14.  A  quiet  day — wind  east;  weather 
pleasant.  Collected  some  fossils,  and  a  few  flowers,  for 
preservation.  At  meridian,  temperature  76°;  at  mid¬ 
night,  58°.  While  here,  several  of  the  bteddin,  or  coney 
of  Scripture,  were  seen  among  the  rocks. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

FROM  MAR  SABA  TO  JERUSALEM. 

Monday,  May  15.  Wind  S.  W. ;  partially  cloudy. 
Thermometer,  at  2  A.  M.,  58°;  at  Meridian,  72°.  Dis¬ 
charged  all  the  Arabs,  except  a  guide  and  the  necessary 
camel-drivers.  The  levelling  party  worked  up  the  bed 
of  the  Kidron,  while  the  camp  proceeded  along  the  edge 
of  the  western  cliff.  In  about  two  hours,  we  passed  a 
large  cistern,  hewn  in  the  rock,  twenty  feet  long,  twelve 
wide,  and  eighteen  high.  There  was  water  in  it  to  the 
depth  of  four  feet,  and  its  surface  was  coated  with  green 
slime.  In  it  two  Arabs  were  bathing.  Nevertheless,  our 
33* 


890 


A  CONTRAST. 


beasts  and  ourselves  were  compelled  to  drink  it.  Soon 
after,  isolated  tufts  of  scant  and  parched  vegetation  began 
to  appear  upon  the  hill-sides.  We  were  truly  in  a  desert. 
There  was  no  difference  of  hue  between  the  dry  torrent- 
bed  and  the  sides  and  summits  of  the  mountains.  From 
the  Great  Sea,  which  washes  the  sandy  plain  on  the  west, 
to  that  bitter  sea  on  the  east,  which  bears  no  living  thing 
within  it,  all  was  dreary  desolation !  The  very  birds 
and  animals,  as  on  the  shores  of  the  Dead  Sea,  were  of 
the  same  dull-brown  colour, — the  colour  of  ashes.  How 
literally  is  the  prophecy  of  Joel  fulfilled  !  “  That  which 

the  palmer-worm  hath  left,  hath  the  locust  eaten ;  and 
that  which  the  locust  hath  left,  hath  the  canker-worm 
eaten ;  and  that  which  the  canker-worm  hath  left,  hath 
the  caterpillar  eaten.  The  field  is  wasted,  the  land 
mourneth,  and  joy  is  withered  from  the  sons  of  men.” 

How  different  the  appearance  of  the  mountain  districts 
of  our  own  land  at  this  season  !  There,  hills  and  plains, 
as  graceful  in  their  sweep  as  the  arrested  billows  of  a 
mighty  ocean,  are  before  and  around  the  delighted  tra¬ 
veller.  Diversified  in  scenery,  luxuriant  of  foliage,  and, 
like  virgin  ore,  crumbling  from  their  own  richness,  they 
teem  with  their  abundant  products.  The  lowing  herds, 
the  bleating  flocks,  the  choral  songsters  of  the  grove, 
gratify  and  delight  the  ear ;  the  clustering  fruit-blossoms, 
the  waving  corn,  the  grain  slow  bending  to  the  breeze,  pro¬ 
claim  an  early  and  redundant  harvest.  More  boundless 
than  the  view,  that  glorious  land  is  uninterrupted  in  its 
sweep  until  the  one  extreme  is  locked  in  the  fast  embrace 
of  thick-ribbed  ice,  and  the  other  is  washed  by  the  phos¬ 
phorescent  ripple  of  the  tropic ;  while,  on  either  side,  is 
heard  the  murmuring  surge  of  a  wide-spread  and  magnifi¬ 
cent  ocean.  Who  can  look  upon  that  land  and  not  thank 
God  that  his  lot  is  cast  within  it  ?  And  yet  this  country, 
scathed  by  the  wrath  of  an  offended  Deity,  teems  with 


ARAB  AGRICULTURE. 


391 


associations  of  the  most  thrilling  events  recorded  in  the 
book  of  time.  The  patriot  may  glory  in  the  one, — the 
Christian  of  every  clime  must  weep,  hut,  even  in  weeping, 
hope  for  the  other. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  cistern,  or  pool,  we  passed  an 
Arab  burial-ground,  the  graves  indicated  by  a  double  line 
of  rude  stones,  as  at  Kerak ;  excepting  one  of  a  sheikh, 
over  which  was  a  plastered  tomb.  Before  it  our  Arab 
guide  stopped,  and,  bowing  his  head,  recited  a  short 
prayer. 

As  we  thence  advanced,  pursuing  a  north-westerly 
course,  signs  of  cultivation  began  to  exhibit  themselves. 
On  each  side  of  us  were  magnificent  rounded  and  sharp- 
crested  hills ;  and,  on  the  top  of  one,  we  soon  after  saw 
the  black  tents  of  an  Arab  encampment;  some  camels 
and  goats  browsing  along  the  sides ;  and,  upon  the  very 
summit,  the  figures  of  some  fellahas  (Arab  peasant 
women)  cut  sharp  against  the  sky. 

A  little  farther  on,  we  came  to  a  small  patch  of  tobacco, 
in  a  narrow  ravine,  the  cotyledons  just  appearing;  and, 
in  the  shadow  of  a  rock,  a  fellah  was  seated,  with  his  long 
gun,  to  guard  it.  Half  a  mile  farther,  we  met  an  Arab, 
a  genuine  Bedawy,  wearing  a  sheepskin  aba,  the  fur 
inwards,  and  driving  before  him  a  she-camel,  with  its 
foal.  A  little  after,  still  following  the  bed  of  the  Kidron, 
we  came  to  the  fork  of  the  pilgrim’s  road,  which  turns 
to  the  north,  at  the  foot  of  a  high  hill,  on  the  summit  of 
which  was  a  large  encampment  of  the  tribe  Subeih. 
Leaving  the  pilgrim’s  road  on  the  right,  we  skirted  the 
southern  base  of  the  hill,  with  patches  of  wheat  and  barley 
covering  the  surface  of  the  narrow  valley ; — the  wheat 
just  heading,  and  the  fields  of  barley  literally  “  white  for 
the  harvest.”  Standing  by  the  roadside,  was  a  fellaha, 
with  a  child  in  her  arms,  who  courteously  saluted  us. 
She  did  not  appear  to  be  more  than  sixteen. 


392  ATTEMPT  AT  EXTORTION. 

The  valley  was  here  about  two  hundred  yards  wide ; 
and  to  our  eyes,  so  long  unused  to  the  sight  of  vegetation, 
presented  a  beautiful  appearance.  The  people  of  the  vil¬ 
lage  collected  in  crowds  to  look  upon  us  as  we  passed  far 
beneath  them.  Some  of  them  came  down  and  declared 
that  they  would  not  permit  the  ’Aheidiyeh  (of  which  tribe 
were  our  camel-drivers)  to  pass  through  their  territory ; 
and  claimed  for  themselves  the  privilege  of  furnishing 
camels.  We  paid  no  attention  to  them,  but  camped  on 
the  west  side  of  the  hill,  where  the  valley  sweeps  to  the 
north. 

Tuesday,  May  16.  Weather  clear,  cool,  and  delightful. 
At  daylight,  recommenced  levelling.  Soon  after,  the 
sheikh  of  the  village  above  us,  with  fifteen  or  twenty 
followers,  armed  with  long  guns,  came  down  and  de¬ 
manded  money  for  passing  through  his  territory.  On 
our  refusal,  high  words  ensued ;  but  finding  his  efforts  at 
intimidation  unsuccessful,  he  presented  us  with  a  sheep, 
which  he  refused  to  sell,  but  gave  it,  he  said,  as  a  back¬ 
shish.  Knowing  that  an  extravagant  return  was  expected, 
and  determined  not  to  humour  him,  I  directed  the  fair 
value  of  the  sheep,  in  money,  to  be  given.  Finding  that 
no  more  was  to  be  obtained,  he  left  us. 

It  was  a  pastoral  sight,  when  we  broke  up  camp,  this 
morning.  The  sun  was  just  rising  over  the  eastern  hills; 
and,  in  every  direction,  we  heard  shepherds  calling  to 
each  other  from  height  to  height,  their  voices  mingling 
with  the  bleating  of  sheep  and  goats,  and  the  lowing  of 
numerous  cattle.  Reapers  were  harvesting  in  every  field ; 
around  the  threshing-floors  the  oxen,  three  abreast,  were 
treading  out  the  grain ;  and  women  were  passing  to  and 
fro,  bearing  huge  bundles  of  grain  in  the  straw,  or  pitchers 
of  leban  (sour  milk),  upon  their  heads.  Every  available 
part  of  this  valley  is  cultivated.  The  mode  of  harvesting 
is  primitive.  The  reaping-hook  alone  is  used ;  the  cradle 


a n  Arab’s  loye. 


393 


seemed  to  be  unknown.  The  scene  reminded  one  forcibly 
of  the  fields  of  Boaz,  and  Ruth  the  gleaner.  Rut,  with  all 
its  peaceful  aspect,  there  was  a  feature  of  insecurity.  Along 
the  bases  of  the  hills,  from  time  to  time  shifting  their 
positions,  to  keep  within  the  shade,  were  several  armed 
fellahin,  guarding  the  reapers  and  the  grain.  The  remark 
of  Y olney  yet  holds  true  : — u  the  countryman  must  sow 
with  his  musket  in  his  hand,  and  no  more  is  sown  than  is 
necessary  for  subsistence.” 

Towards  noon  it  became  very  warm,  and  we  were 
thirsty.  Meeting  an  old  Arab  woman,  we  despatched  her 
to  the  Subeih  for  some  leban.  We  noticed  that  ’Awad, 
our  Ta’amirah  guide,  was  exceedingly  polite  to  her.  But 
when  she  returned,  accompanied  by  her  daughter,  a 
young  and  pretty  fellaha,  he  became  sad,  and  scarce  said 
a  word  while  they  remained.  On  being  asked  the  reason 
of  his  sudden  sadness,  he  confessed  that  he  had  once 
spent  twelve  months  with  that  tribe,  sleeping,  according 
to  the  custom  of  Arab  courtship,  every  night  outside  of 
the  young  girl’s  tent,  in  the  hope  of  winning  her  for  his 
wife.  He  said  that  they  were  mutually  attached,  but 
that  the  mother  was  opposed  to  him,  and  the  father  de¬ 
manded  4000  piastres,  about  170  dollars.  ’Awad  had 
2000  piastres,  the  earnings  of  his  whole  life,  and  in  the 
hope  of  buying  her  (for  such  is  the  true  name  of  an  Arab 
marriage) ,  he  determined  to  sell  his  horse,  which  he  valued 
at  1000  piastres,  or  a  little  over  forty  dollars.  But, 

u  The  course  of  true  love  did  never  yet  run  smooth 

and  unfortunately  his  horse  died,  which  reduced  him  to 
despair.  Shortly  after,  the  girl’s  uncle  claimed  her  for 
his  son,  then  five  years  old,  offering  to  give  his  daughter 
to  her  brother.  According  to  an  immemorial  custom  of 
the  Arabs,  such  a  claim  took  precedence  of  all  others,  and 
the  beautiful  girl,  just  ripening  into  womanhood,  was  be- 


394 


an  Arab’s  revenge. 


trothed  to  the  child.  With  the  philosophy  of  his  race, 
however,  ’Awad  subsequently  consoled  himself  with  a 
wife;  but,  true  to  his  first  love,  never  sees  its  object  with¬ 
out  violent  emotion. 

lie  further  told  us,  that  in  the  same  camp  there  was 
another  girl  far  more  beautiful  than  the  one  we  had  seen, 
for  whom  her  father  asked  6000  piastres,  a  little  more 
than  250  dollars.  The  one  we  saw  was  lightly  and  sym¬ 
metrically  formed,  and  exceedingly  graceful  in  her  move¬ 
ments.  The  tawny  complexion,  the  cheek-bones  some¬ 
what  prominent,  the  coarse  black  hair,  and  the  dark, 
lascivious  eye,  reminded  us  of  a  female  Indian  of  our 
border. 

Leaving  the  fellahin  busy  in  their  fields,  and  still  fol¬ 
lowing  the  ravine,  we  came  to  a  narrow  ridge,  immedi¬ 
ately  on  the  other  side  of  which  were  some  thirty  or  forty 
black  tents.  Here  a  stain  upon  the  rocks  told  a  tale  of 
blood. 

An  Arab  widower  ran  off  with  a  married  woman  from 
the  encampment  before  us, — a  most  unusual  crime  among 
this  people.  In  little  more  than  a  month,  the  unhappy 
woman  died.  Knowing  that  by  the  laws  of  the  tribes  he 
could  be  put  to  death  by  the  injured  man,  or  any  of  his 
or  the  woman’s  relatives  he  might  encounter,  and  that 
they  were  on  the  watch  for  him;  and  yet  anxious  to 
return,  he  made  overtures  for  a  settlement.  After  much 
negotiation,  the  feud  was  reconciled  on  condition  that  he 
gave  his  daughter,  400  piastres,  a  camel,  and  some  sheep 
to  the  injured  man.  A  feast  was  accordingly  given,  and 
the  parties  embraced  in  seeming  amity.  But  the  son-in- 
law  brooded  over  his  wrong,  and  one  day  seeing  the 
seducer  of  his  former  wife  approaching,  concealed  himself 
in  a  cavity  of  the  rock  and  deliberately  shot  him  as  he 
passed.  Such  is  the  Arab  law  of  vengeance,  in  cases  of 
a  flagrant  breach  of  faith  like  this,  that  all  of  both  tribes, 


A  COMPROMISE.  395 

’Awad  told  us,  are  now  bound  to  put  the  murderer  to 
death. 

This  elopement  is  not  an  isolated  circumstance,  although 
a  most  unusual  one.  The  only  wonder  is  that  with  such 
a  licentious  race  as  the  Arabs,  the  marriage  contract, 
wherein  the  woman  has  no  choice,  is  not  more  frequently 
violated.  Burckhardt  relates  a  similar  case,  which  oc¬ 
curred  south  of  Kerak,  in  1810. 

A  young  man  of  Tafyle  had  eloped  with  the  wife  of 
another.  The  father  of  the  young  man  with  all  his 
family  had  been  also  obliged  to  fly,  for  the  Bedawin  law 
authorized  the  injured  husband  to  kill  any  of  the 
offenders  relations  in  retaliation  for  the  loss  of  his  wife. 
Proffers  were  made  for  a  settlement  of  the  difficulty,  and 
negotiations  were  opened.  The  husband  began  by  de¬ 
manding  from  the  young  man’s  father  two  wives  in  return 
for  the  one  carried  off,  and  the  greater  part  of  the  pro¬ 
perty  which  the  emigrant  family  possessed  in  Tafyle. 
The  father  of  the  guilty  wife,  and  her  first-cousin  also, 
demanded  compensation  for  the  insult  which  their  family 
had  received  by  the  elopement.  The  affair  was  settled 
by  the  offender’s  father  placing  four  infant  daughters,  the 
youngest  of  whom  was  not  yet  weaned,  at  the  disposal  of 
the  husband  and  his  father-in-law,  who  might  betroth 
them  to  whom  they  pleased,  and  receive  themselves  the 
money  which  is  usually  paid  for  girls.  The  four  girls 
were  estimated  at  three  thousand  piastres.  In  testimony  of 
peace  being  concluded  between  the  two  families,  and  of  the 
price  of  blood  having  been  paid,  the  young  man’s  father, 
who  had  not  yet  shown  himself  publicly,  came  to  shake 
hands  with  the  injured  husband;  a  white  flag  was  sus¬ 
pended  at  the  top  of  the  tent  in  which  they  sat,  a  sheep 
was  killed  and  the  night  spent  in  feasting.  After  that, 
the  guilty  pair  could  return  in  safety. 

Soon  after  noon,  we  passed  the  last  encampment  of 


396  FIRST  VIEW  OF  JERUSALEM. 

black  tents,  and  turning  aside  from  the  line  of  march,  I 
rode  to  the  summit  of  a  hill  on  the  left,  and  beheld  the 
Holy  City,  on  its  elevated  site  at  the  head  of  the  ravine. 
With  an  interest  never  felt  before,  I  gazed  upon  the  hal¬ 
lowed  spot  of  our  redemption.  Forgetting  myself  and 
all  around  me,  I  saw,  in  vivid  fancy,  the  route  traversed 
eighteen  centuries  before  by  the  Man  of  Sorrows.  Men 
may  say  what  they  please,  but  there  are  moments  when 
the  soul,  casting  aside  the  artificial  trammels  of  the  world, 
will  assert  its  claim  to  a  celestial  origin,  and  regardless 
of  time  and  place,  of  sneers  and  sarcasms,  pay  its  tribute 
at  the  shrine  of  faith,  and  weep  for  the  sufferings  of  its 
founder. 

I  scarce  realized  my  position.  Could  it  be,  that  with 
my  companions  I  had  been  permitted  to  explore  that 
wondrous  sea,  which  an  angry  God  threw  as  a  mantle 
over  the  cities  he  had  condemned,  and  of  which  it  had 
been  heretofore  predicted  that  no  one  could  traverse  it 
and  live.  It  was  so,  for  there,  far  below,  through  the 
descending  vista,  lay  the  sombre  sea.  Before  me,  on  its 
lofty  hill,  four  thousand  feet  above  that  sea,  was  the 
queenly  city.  I  cannot  coincide  with  most  travellers  in 
decrying  its  position.  To  my  unlettered  mind,  its  site, 
from  that  view,  seemed,  in  isolated  grandeur,  to  be  in  ad¬ 
mirable  keeping  with  the  sublimity  of  its  associations.  A 
lofty  mountain,  sloping  to  the  south,  and  precipitous  on 
the  east  and  west,  has  a  yawning  natural  fosse  on  those 
three  sides,  worn  by  the  torrents  of  ages.  The  deep  vale 
of  the  son  of  Hinnom ;  the  profound  chasm  of  the  valley 
of  Jehoshaphat,  unite  at  the  south-east  angle  of  the  base  to 
form  the  Wady  en  Nar,  the  ravine  of  fire,  down  which, 
in  the  rainy  season,  the  Kidron  precipitates  its  swollen 
flood  into  the  sea  below. 

Mellowed  by  time,  and  yet  further  softened  by  the  in¬ 
tervening  distance,  the  massive  walls,  with  their  towers 


APPROACH  TO  JERUSALEM.  397 

and  bastions,  looked  beautiful  yet  imposing  in  the  golden 
sunlight ;  and  above  them,  the  only  thing  within  their 
compass  visible  from  that  point,  rose  the  glittering  dome 
of  the  mosque  of  Omar,  crowning  Mount  Moriah,  on  the 
site  of  the  Holy  Temple.  On  the  other  side  of  the  chasm, 
commanding  the  city  and  the  surrounding  hills,  is  the 
Mount  of  Olives,  its  slopes  darkened  with  the  foliage  of 
olive-trees,  and  on  its  very  summit  the  former  Church  of 
the  Ascension,  now  converted  into  a  mosque. 

Many  writers  have  undertaken  to  describe  the  first 
sight  of  J erusalem ;  but  all  that  I  have  read  convey  but 
a  faint  idea  of  the  reality.  There  is  a  gloomy  grandeur 
in  the  scene  which  language  cannot  paint.  My  feeble  pen 
is  wholly  unworthy  of  the  effort.  With  fervent  emotions 
I  have  made  the  attempt,  but  congealed  in  the  process  of 
transmission,  the  most  glowing  thoughts  are  turned  to 
icicles. 

The  ravine  widened  as  we  approached  Jerusalem; 
fields  of  yellow  grain,  orchards  of  olives  and  figs,  and 
some  apricot-trees,  covered  all  the  land  in  sight  capable 
of  cultivation ;  but  not  a  tree,  nor  a  bush,  on  the  barren 
hill-sides.  The  young  figs,  from  the  size  of  a  currant  to  a 
plum,  were  shooting  from  the  extremities  of  the  branches, 
while  the  leaf-buds  were  just  bursting.  Indeed,  the  fruit 
of  the  fig  appears  before  the  leaves  are  formed,*  and  thus, 
when  our  Saviour  saw  a  fig-tree  in  leaf,  he  had,  humanly 
speaking,  reason  to  expect  to  find  fruit  upon  it. 

Although  the  mountain-sides  were  barren,  there  were 
vestiges  of  terraces  on  nearly  all  of  them.  On  the  slope 
of  one  there  were  twenty-four,  which  accounts  for  the 
redundant  population  this  country  once  supported. 

Ascending  the  valley,  which,  at  every  step,  presented 
more  and  more  an  increasing  luxuriance  of  vegetation, 


34 


*  Kitto’s  Palestine. 


398  VICINITY  OF  THE  HOLY  CITY. 

the  dark  hue  of  the  olive,  with  its  dull,  white  blossoms, 
relieved  by  the  light,  rich  green  of  the  apricot  and  the 
fig,  and  an  occasional  pomegranate,  thickly  studded  with 
its  scarlet  flowers,  we  came  to  En  Rogel,  the  Well  of  Job, 
or  of  Nehemiah  (where  the  fire  of  the  altar  was  reco¬ 
vered),  with  cool,  delicious  water,  118  feet  deep,  and  a 
small,  arched,  stone  building  over  it. 

On  our  right,  was  the  Mount  of  Offence,  where  Solomon 
worshipped  Ashtaroth  :  before  us,  in  the  rising  slope  of 
the  valley  of  Jehoshaphat,  had  been  the  kings’  gardens  in 
the  palmy  days  of  J erusalem :  a  little  above,  and  farther 
to  the  west,  were  the  pool  of  Siloam  and  the  fountain  of  the 
Virgin  :  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  chasm  was  the  village 
of  Siloam,  where,  it  is  said,  Solomon  kept  his  strange 
wives ;  and,  below  it,  the  great  Jewish  burial-ground, 
tessellated  with  the  flat  surfaces  of  grave-stones ;  and, 
near  by,  the  tombs  of  Absalom,  Zacharias,  and  Jehosha,- 
phat ;  and,  above  and  beyond,  and  more  dear  in  its  asso¬ 
ciations  than  all,  the  garden  of  Gethsemane. 

We  here  turned  to  the  left,  up  the  valley  of  the  son  of 
Hinnom,  where  Saul  was  anointed  king ;  and,  passing  a 
tree  on  the  right,  which,  according  to  tradition,  indicates 
the  spot  where  Isaiah  was  sawn  asunder ;  and  by  a  cave 
in  which  it  is  asserted  that  the  apostles  concealed  them¬ 
selves  when  they  forsook  their  Master;  and  under  the 
Aceldama,  bought  with  the  price  of  blood ;  and  near  the 
pool  in  the  garden  of  Urias,  where,  from  his  palace,  the 
king  saw  Bathsheba  bathing;  we  levelled  slowly  along 
the  skirts  of  Mount  Zion,  near  the  summit  of  which 
towered  a  mosque,  above  the  tomb  of  David. 

It  was  up  Mount  Zion  that  Abraham,  steadfast  in  faith, 
led  the  wondering  Isaac,  the  type  of  a  future  sacrifice. 

Centuries  after,  a  more  august  and  a  self-devoted  vic¬ 
tim,  laden  with  the  instrument  of  his  torture,  toiled  along 
the  same  acclivity;  but  there  was  then  no  miraculous 


TOMB  OF 


ABSALOM. 


LOWER  POOL  OF  GIHON.  399 

interposition ;  and  He  who  felt  for  the  anguish  of  a  human 
parent,  spared  not  Himself. 

From  this  valley  Mount  Zion  rises  high  and  preci¬ 
pitous  ;  and,  isolated  as  the  hill  was  under  the  Jebusites, 
might  well  justify  their  scornful  message,  when  summoned 
by  David  to  surrender. 

Following  the  curve  of  the  vale  of  Hinnom,  the  Ge¬ 
henna  of  the  Old  Testament,  which  rounds  gradually  to 
the  north,  with  the  Hill  of  Evil  Counsel*  on  our  left,  we 
proceeded  to  the  lower  pool  of  Gihon,  where,  at  5  P.  M., 
we  were  compelled  to  halt,  in  consequence  of  the  high 
wind  agitating  the  spirit-level. 

We  pitched  our  tents  upon  a  terrace,  just  above  where 
the  aqueduct  crosses  from  Solomon’s  pool,  with  Zion  gate 
immediately  over  us,  and,  a  quarter  of  a  mile  below  the 
tower  of  Hippacus  and  the  J affa  gate.  In  a  line  with  us, 
above  the  Jaffa  gate,  was  the  upper  pool  of  Gihon,  with 
a  number  of  Turkish  tombs  near  it.  On  the  opposite,  or 
western  side  of  the  ravine,  were  old,  gray,  barren  cliffs, 
with  excavated  tombs  and  caverns.  The  lower  pool,  be¬ 
neath  the  camp,  is  formed  by  two  huge,  thick  walls  across 
the  chasm.  The  aqueduct  is  led  along  the  upper  edge 
of  the  lower  one ;  and  the  surface  of  the  wall  serves  as  a 
bridge,  over  which  passes  the  road  to  Bethlehem, — the 
one  traversed  by  our  Saviour,  on  his  first  visit  to  Jeru¬ 
salem.  We  made  a  bench-mark  on  a  rock,  above  the 
north-west  angle  of  the  city-wall.  We  made  a  similar 
mark  in  the  Wady  en  Nar,  immediately  under  the  Con¬ 
vent  of  Mar  Saba.  The  object  of  these  bench-marks  was 
to  prevent  the  necessity  of  recommencing  the  level,  de 
novo,  in  the  event  of  an  error. 

There  was  little  evidence  of  curiosity  respecting  us  or 


*  So  called,  from  the  tradition  that  on  it  Caiaphas  dwelt  when  he  coun¬ 
selled  with  the  Jews. 


402 


JERUSALEM. 


Koman  army  under  Titus.  There  were  many  fields  of 
grain  around  us,  occasionally  separated  by  low  walls  of 
uncut  and  uncemented  stone.  There  were  few  trees,  and 
the  mountains,  from  their  summits  two-thirds  down,  were 
masses  of  brown  rock  without  soil  and  unrelieved  by  ver¬ 
dure.  South-west  from  us,  about  a  mile  distant,  was  a  large 
building,  its  towers  just  visible  over  an  intervening  ridge. 
It  was  the  Greek  convent  of  the  Holy  Cross,  where,  we 
were  told,  “is  the  earth  that  nourished  the  root,  that  bore 
the  tree,  that  yielded  the  timber,  that  made  the  cross/’  A 
most  irreverent  play  upon  words  connected  with  such  a 
theme,  for  it  reminds  one  forcibly  of  the  nursery  tale  of 
the  “house  that  Jack  built.” 

It  is  from  this  quarter  that  the  appearance  of  Jerusalem 
has  been  usually  described.  Looking  hence  upon  the  city, 
but  little  above  a  level,  it  is  certainly  less  grand  and  im¬ 
posing  than  from  the  gorge  of  the  valley  to  the  south-east, 
where  it  towers  majestically  above  the  spectator.  Yet, 
beheld  even  from  this  point,  there  is  no  other  city  in  the 
world  which  can  compare  with  it  in  position.  It  does 
not,  like  other  cities,  present  an  indefinite  mass  of  build¬ 
ings,  which  must  be  viewed  in  detail  before  the  eye  can 
be  gratified ;  but,  with  only  its  dome-roofs  swelling  above 
the  time-stained  and  lofty  walls,  Jerusalem  sits  enthroned, 
a  queen  in  the  midst  of  an  empire  of  desolation.  Apart 
from  its  associations,  we  look  upon  it  in  admiration; 
but,  connected  with  them,  the  mind  is  filled  with  reve¬ 
rential  awe,  as  it  recalls  the  wondrous  events  that  have 
occurred  within  and  around  it. 

The  city  is  nearly  in  the  form  of  a  paralellogram,  about 
three-fourths  of  a  mile  long,  from  east  to  west,  and  half  a 
mile  broad,  from  north  to  south.  The  walls  are  lofty,  pro¬ 
tected  by  an  artificial  fosse  on  the  north,  and  the  deep 
ravines  of  Jehoshaphat,  of  Gihon,  and  the  Son  of  Hinnom, 
on  the  east,  south,  and  west.  There  are  now  but  four 


VIEWS  OF  JERUSALEM. 


403 


gates  to  the  city.  The  Jaffa  gate,  the  fish-gate  of  the 
New  Testament,  on  the  west ;  the  Damascus  gate,  open¬ 
ing  on  the  great  northern  road,  along  which  our  Saviour 
travelled,  when,  at  twelve  years  of  age,  he  came  up 
with  his  mother  and  kindred;  the  gate  of  St.  Stephen, 
on  the  east,  near  the  spot  where  the  first  Christian 
martyr  fell,  and  overlooking  the  valley  of  Jehoshaphat ; 
and  the  Zion  gate,  to  the  south,  on  the  crest  of  the 
mount.  Immediately  within  the  last,  are  the  habitations 
of  the  lepers. 

On  the  18th,  sent  the  sections  of  the  boats  to  Jaffa, 
under  the  charge  of  Sherif,  whom  we  found  here.  We 
remained  in  camp  until  the  2 2d,  the  officers  and  men  by 
turns  visiting  the  city  and  its  environs.  During  that 
time  the  weather  was  clear,  cool  at  night,  and  delightful 
throughout  the  day. 

Dr.  Anderson  left  us  here,  his  business  calling  him  in 
another  direction.  Although  not  required  to  do  so,  he 
had,  while  with  us,  generously  persisted  in  bearing  his 
portion  of  watchfulness  and  fatigue ;  and  by  his  invaria¬ 
ble  cheerfulness,  his  promptitude  and  zeal  on  all  occasions, 
proved,  independently  of  his  professional  services,  a  most 
valuable  auxiliary.  He  won  our  esteem,  and  carried  with 
him  the  fervent  good  will  of  every  member  of  the  party. 
Mr.  Bedlow,  who  had  studied  medicine,  and  given  us 
satisfactory  proof  of  his  capacity,  was  appointed  to  fill 
the  place  of  Dr.  Anderson. 

The  following  account  of  his  first  day  in  Jerusalem  is 
from  the  diary  of  the  youngest  member  of  the  party,  who 
was  sent  up  from  Ain  Jidy  in  advance  of  the  camp.  I 
give  it  as  the  unvarnished  recital  of  one  who  simply 
relates  what  he  saw. 

“  Our  bones  yet  ached  from  the  effects  of  our  fatiguing 
ride ;  nevertheless,  we  determined  first  to  visit  the  holy 
places  of  Jerusalem,  and  then  to  regale  ourselves  with 


404 


MUSLIM  PILGRIMS. 


a  civilized  repast,  and  afterwards  luxuriate  upon  a  bona 
fide  bed. 

“  Our  cicerone  bad  arrived  betimes,  and  installed  him¬ 
self  in  his  office  with  that  pleasantness  of  manner  which 
the  expectation  of  a  liberal  fee  produces.  His  entreaties 
to  make  haste  roused  us  from  our  recumbent  postures, 
and  we  sallied  forth  through  miserable  apologies  for 
streets,  lined  on  each  side  by  dilapidated  bazaars. 

“  The  Yia  Dolorosa,  or  Sorrowful  Way,  first  arrested 
our  attention,  and  our  guide  pointed  out  the  spot  where 
our  Saviour  fell  under  the  burthen  of  his  cross.  A  little 
farther  on,  we  had  a  partial  view  of  the  mosque  of  Omar, 
above  the  high  walls  by  which  it  is  surrounded.  While 
we  gazed  upon  it,  a  crowd  of  Abyssinian  pilgrims  called 
out  to  us  with  such  fierce  expressions  of  fanatic  rage  that 
our  hands  instinctively  grasped  our  weapons.  The  move¬ 
ment  had  its  effect,  and  after  indulging  our  curiosity,  we 
passed  on  unmolested. 

“  Next  to  Mecca,  Jerusalem  is  the  most  holy  place  of 
Muhammedan  pilgrimage,  and  throughout  the  year,  the 
mosque  of  Omar  and  its  court  are  crowded  with  turbanned 
worshippers.  This  mosque,  built  upon  the  site  of  the 
Holy  Temple,  is  the  great  shrine  of  their  devotions.  It  is 
strictly  guarded  against  all  intruders,  and  there  is  a 
superstitious  Muslim  belief  that  if  a  Christian  were  to 
gain  access  to  it,  Allah  would  assent  to  whatever  he 
might  please  to  ask,  and  they  take  it  for  granted  that  his 
first  prayer  would  be  for  the  subversion  of  the  religion  of 
the  Prophet. 

“  In  one  of  the  streets  we  came  to  a  low  gate,  passing 
through  which  and  descending  a  long  flight  of  stairs,  we 
entered  upon  an  open  court  in  front  of  the  church  of  the 
Holy  Sepulchre,  an  ancient  and  venerable  building.  Scat¬ 
tered  about  the  court  were  motley  groups  of  Jew  pedlars, 
Turks,  beggars,  and  Christian  pilgrims.  The  appearance 


CHURCH  OF  THE  SEPULCHRE.  405 

of  a  poor  cripple  excited  my  compassion,  and  I  gave  him 
a  piastre ;  but  the  consequences  were  fearful.  The  war- 
cry  of  the  Syrian  pauper,  “  backshish !  backshish !”  in¬ 
stantly  resounded  from  all  quarters,  and  we  were  hemmed 
in,  pressed,  and  swayed  to  and  fro  by  the  rabble.  Our 
cicerone  plied  his  stick  vigorously  in  our  defence,  and  it 
truly  seemed  to  be  gifted  with  miraculous  powers,  for  the 
blind  saw,  and  the  lame  walked,  and  amid  their  impreca¬ 
tions  upon  our  Christian  heads  we  entered  the  church. 

“  Just  within  the  door,  seated  on  a  raised  divan,  two 
sedate  old  Muslims  were  regaling  themselves  with  minia¬ 
ture  cups  of  coffee  and  the  everlasting  chiboque.  Imme¬ 
diately  in  front  of  the  entrance  is  the  stone  of  unction, 
upon  which,  according  to  tradition,  the  body  of  our  Lord 
was  anointed.  It  is  a  plain  slab  of  Jerusalem  marble, 
slightly  elevated  above  the  floor  of  the  church,  and  en¬ 
closed  by  a  low  railing.  The  pilgrims,  in  their  pious 
fervour,  crowding  forward  to  kiss  it,  prevented  our  near 
approach. 

“  Turning  to  the  left,  we  saw  in  the  centre  of  the  main 
body  of  the  church  a  small  oblong  building,  which  con¬ 
tains  the  sepulchre.  There  were  different  processions 
crossing  and  recrossing  each  other  with  slow  and  mea¬ 
sured  pace,  each  pilgrim  with  a  taper  in  his  hand,  and 
the  numerous  choirs,  in  various  languages,  were  chanting 
aloud  the  service  of  the  day.  The  lights,  the  noise,  and 
the  moving  crowd  had  an  effect  for  which  the  mind  was 
not  prepared,  and  with  far  less  awe  than  the  sanctity  of 
the  place  is  calculated  to  inspire,  we  entered  the  sepul¬ 
chre.  In  the  middle  of  the  first  apartment,  for  it  is 
divided  into  two,  is  a  stone,  upon  which  the  angel  was 
seated  when  he  informed  the  two  Marys  of  the  resurrec¬ 
tion.  This  room  is  about  eight  feet  square,  and  beauti¬ 
fully  ornamented.  From  this  we  crept  through  a  narrow 
aperture  into  the  inner  apartment,  against  the  north  side 


406 


THE  MOUNT  OF  OLIVES. 


of  which  is  the  sepulchre  in  the  form  of  a  low  altar. 
It  is  about  the  same  size  as  the  first,  and  between  the 
sepulchre  and  the  southern  wall,  there  is  barely  space  to 
kneel.  It  was  brilliantly  lighted  by  rich  and  costly 
lamps. 

“  From  the  sepulchre  we  were  led  to  see  the  pillar  of 
flagellation,  visible  through  a  hole  in  the  wall,  but  we  did 
not  credit  the  pious  imposition.  Thence,  we  ascended 
to  the  altar  of  Calvary,  with  three  holes  beneath  it,  where 
were  planted  the  crosses  upon  which  the  Saviour  and  the 
two  thieves  were  crucified.  The  holes  are  cut  through 
beautifully  polished  marble.*  Near  by  is  a  fissure  in  the 
limestone  rock,  caused,  it  is  alleged,  by  the  earthquake 
which  closed  the  sad  drama  of  the  crucifixion.  This  rent 
is  certainly  not  an  artificial  one.  Before  leaving  the 
church,  we  visited  the  tomb  of  Godfrey  of  Bouillon,  and 
the  place  where  the  true  cross,  it  is  said,  was  found  by 
the  Empress  Helena. 

“  We  next  determined  to  visit  a  spot  respecting  the 
identity  of  wrhich  even  the  mind  of  the  most  skeptical 
can  have  no  room  for  doubt.  Passing  through  the 
Damascus  gate,  we  skirted  the  northern  wall,  and  de¬ 
scending  into  the  valley  of  Jehoshaphat,  and  crossing  the 
bridge  over  the  dry  bed  of  the  Kidron,  we  commenced 
the  ascent  of  the  Mount  of  Olives.  We  soon  reached  the 
summit,  but  the  scorching  heat  of  a  Syrian  sun  did  not 
permit  us  to  enjoy  long  the  magnificent  view  it  afforded. 
Parts  of  the  Dead  Sea  were  visible,  and  looking  down 
upon  it,  we  felt  proud  in  being  able  to  say  that  we  were 
the  first  thoroughly  to  explore  this  sea,  which  has  for 
ages  kept  its  mysteries  buried  in  the  deep  bosom  of  its 
sullen  waters. 


*  The  writer  was  not  aware  that  the  surface  of  the  natural  rock  had 
been  cut  awa}7-,  and  marble  placed  upon  it. 


THE  ARMENIAN  CONVENT.  407 

<£  On  our  return,  we  stopped  at  the  garden  of  Getlise- 
mane,  which  is  held  by  the  Latins,  who  have  enclosed  it 
with  a  wall.  After  repeatedly  knocking  at  the  gate,  we 
were  about  to  come  away,  when  it  was  opened  by  a  gar¬ 
rulous  old  Spaniard,  whose  visage  was  as  gnarled  as  the 
trees  we  now  saw  before  us.  The  garden  consists  of  eight 
enormous  olive-trees,  their  venerable  appearance  truly 
typical  of  old  age;  and  there  can  scarcely  be  a  reason¬ 
able  doubt  that  this  is,  indeed,  the  very  place  where  the 
Saviour  wept  and  prayed. 

u  Crossing  the  valley  of  Jehoshaphat,  and  ascending 
the  slope  of  Mount  Moriah,  we  passed  by  the  Golden 
Gate,  now  walled  up  by  the  Turks.  Why  it  is  called 
‘  golden,’  I  am  unable  to  say,  unless  from  its  rich  and  ela¬ 
borate  sculpture. 

“  We  next  came  to  the  fountain  of  the  Virgin,  which 
flows  through  a  subterranean  passage  into  the  pool  of 
Siloam,  and  is  thence  distributed  along  the  slope  of  the 
valley.  The  pool  is  near  the  foot  of  the  mount,  and  is  a 
deep  oblong  pit,  with  fragments  of  columns  in  the  centre. 
There  are  steps  leading  down  to  it  on  the  left  side,  and 
the  water  is  muddy  and  shallow.  Here  Christ  restored 
the  blind  man  to  sight. 

“  Re-entering  the  city  through  the  Jaffa  gate,  our  cice¬ 
rone  declared  ‘by  the  body  of  Bacchus’  that  he  would 
show  us  the  greatest  sight  in  the  Holy  City.  It  was  the 
Armenian  convent  near  by.  We  entered  through  the 
portal,  and  were  ushered  into  an  antechamber  by  a  sour 
looking  old  monk,  where,  in  the  midst  of  a  crowd  of 
camel-drivers,  we  waited  for  permission  from  the  patriarch 
to  see  the  riches  of  the  convent.  We  were  first  shown 
the  portraits  of  all  preceding  patriarchs,  now  canonized 
as  saints  in  their  calendar;  while  that  of  the  present  one 
was  the  most  gorgeously  framed  —  par  excellence,  the 
greatest  saint  of  them  all.  Persons  well  versed  in  the  art 


408  VISITORS  TO  JERUSALEM. 

of  discolouring  canvass  had  painted  these  miserable  daubs, 
which,  taking  the  portrait  of  the  present  patriarch  as  a 
fair  criterion,  bore  not  the  slightest  resemblance  to  their 
originals. 

u  We  then  entered  the  chapel,  the  chef-d’oeuvre  of  this 
costly  building.  The  most  tasteful  ornaments  were  the 
doors,  made  of  tortoise-shell  and  inlaid  with  mother-of- 
pearl.  The  walls  were  of  mosaic,  representing  saints  and 
devils  engaged  in  most  furious  combats ;  but  unfortu¬ 
nately,  although  our  cicerone  zealously  endeavoured  to 
point  out  which  were  the  saints  and  which  the  devils,  we 
often  fell  into  a  mistake  respecting  them.  We  were 
shown  throughout  the  convent,  which  is  constructed  in 
the  well-known  Saracenic  style  of  architecture ;  and  the 
patriarch  long  detained  us  with  an  account  of  the  im¬ 
provements  he  intended  to  make. 

“  We  returned  to  our  hotel  sorely  fatigued,  and  for  lack 
of  better  amusement,  watched  the  preparations  for  dinner 
with  more  avidity  than  would  a  hungry  citizen  of  Arkan¬ 
sas  the  like  evolutions  on  board  of  a  western  steam¬ 
boat.” 

Jerusalem,  its  narrow,  tortuous  streets,  with  its  pave¬ 
ment  of  large  round  stones,  and  its  arches  and  recesses, 
time-stained  and  ivy-grown,  and  the  walls  of  many  of  the 
houses,  like  those  of  the  pavement,  a  consolidated  lime¬ 
stone,  cream-coloured  and  streaked  with  blood-red,  has 
been  repeatedly  described. 

Visitors  to  Jerusalem  consist,  usually,  of  three  classes : — 
the  ignorant  and  credulous,  who  are  prepared  to  believe 
everything ;  the  conceited  and  intolerant,  who  are  equally 
determined  to  believe  nothing ;  and  the  weak  and  indo¬ 
lent,  who  side  with  the  last,  because  it  is  easier  to  doubt 
than  to  investigate. 

The  first  listens  with  greedy  ear,  and  assenting  mind, 
to  the  most  improbable  legends.  The  second,  stubborn 


SACRED  LOCALITIES. 


409 


and  querulous,  scoffs  openly  at  what  he  hears,  and  laughs 
in  his  sleeve  at  the  simplicity  of  those  who  differ  from 
him.  The  third,  not  sufficiently  ill-natured  to  sneer, 
adopts  the  opinions,  without  the  malevolence,  of  others, 
who,  because  they  are  more  positive,  he  concludes  must 
be  the  best  informed. 

Most  of  the  wall,  and  all  the  houses  of  J erusalem,  were 
demolished  by  Titus.  Who,  therefore,  can  believe  in  the 
assigned  localities  along  the  “Via  Dolorosa”?  Who  can 
credit  that  here  the  Virgin  Mary  was  born ;  there,  the 
Saviour  instituted  the  sacrament  of  the  last  supper ;  or 
that  yonder  is  the  house  where  Pilate  sat  in  judgment? 
Faith  does  not  require,  and  true  reverence  would  not  be 
sustained  by,  such  weak  credulity. 

But  there  is  a  place  which,  above  all  others,  should  be 
approached  with  humility,  —  the  church  of  the  Holy 
Sepulchre ;  for  even  the  greatest  cavillers  admit  that,  if 
it  do  not  cover  all  the  sacred  localities  assigned  to  it, 
some,  at  least,  may  lie  beneath  its  roof,  and  none  can  be 
very  far  distant  from  it. 

It  is  known  that  early  in  the  second  century,  the  pagan 
conquerors  of  Jerusalem  erected  a  statue  to  Jupiter,  on 
the  site  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  and  one  to  Venus,  on 
Mount  Calvary ; — thus,  the  very  means  taken  to  obliterate 
the  recollections  of  those  localities,  served,  as  has  been 
often  remarked,  to  perpetuate  them.  The  Christians 
were  never  absent  from  the  city,  except  at  its  destruction 
by  Titus,  when  they  took  refuge,  for  a  short  time,  in 
Pella.  In  less  than  two  centuries  after  the  destruction 
of  the  temple,  the  holy  places  were  restored  to  them.  So 
that  they  could  not  have  forgotten  them.  Can  the  Jews 
forget  the  site  of  the  temple  ? 

It  is  not  my  purpose  to  enter  into  an  argument.  No 
one,  however,  should  venture  to  approach  the  sacred  pre¬ 
cincts  without  learning  thus  much;  and  he  who,  with 

35 


410 


UNREASONABLE  SKEPTICISM. 


this  knowledge,  enters  them  with  a  cavilling  spirit,  is  a 
heartless  scoffer. 

Some  of  our  officers  visited  this  church  in  company 
with  a  clergyman.  While  their  minds  were  occupied 
with  the  thoughts  which  such  a  place  is  calculated  to 
inspire  in  all  but  a  perverted  heart,  the  latter  annoyed 
them  by  the  frequent  remark,  “  AW  ell,  I  hope  you  will  not 
be  offended,  but  I  am  somewhat  skeptical  on  this  point.” 
At  length  one  of  the  officers  said  to  him,  66  Please  reserve 
your  doubts  for  discussion  elsewhere ;  we  do  not  believe 
all  that  is  told  us,  but  know  that  not  far  from  this,  if  not 
here,  the  Saviour  died.” 

It  is  true  that  much  occurs  in  these  places  calculated 
to  shake  the  faith  of  the  unstable,  who  cannot  distin¬ 
guish  between  what  men  do  and  what  they  are  enjoined 
to  do.  The  Almighty  withheld  from  the  Israelites  all 
knowledge  of  the  final  resting-place  of  their  great  law¬ 
giver  :  may  not  the  same  Supreme  Wisdom  have  left  us 
in  ignorance  of  the  exact  position  of  places  infinitely  more 
sacred,  to  preserve  them  from  desecration,  whether  of 
wanton  malice  or  intemperate  zeal  ?  The  possibility  that 
any  assigned  spot  may  be  the  true  one,  and  the  certainty 
that  it  cannot  be  very  far  removed  from  it,  is  sufficient  to 
inspire  awe  in  every  feeling  breast. 

Disgusted  with  the  conduct  of  many  of  the  pilgrims,  in 
paschal  week,  without  looking  to  the  impelling  motive, 
many  come  to  the  sage  conclusion  that  the  temple  must 
be  an  imposture  because  some  of  its  visitors  are  disor¬ 
derly  ; — which  is  about  as  fair  as  to  judge  of  the  nature 
of  our  beautiful  institutions  by  the  pugilistic  combats 
which  sometimes  (thank  God,  rarely)  disgrace  our  national 
halls  of  legislation. 

Intemperate  zeal  may  be  as  reckless  as  intoxication 
from  drink ; — but  is  the  sincere  Christian  to  be,  therefore, 
classed  with  a  fanatic;  or  a  sober  citizen  with  an  ine- 


PRESUMPTUOUS  CAVILLING.  411 

briate  ?  At  all  events,  on  such  a  subject,  an  excess  of 
enthusiasm  is  preferable  to  insensibility;  and  he  who 
believes  and  bows  down  is  more  to  be  envied  than  he  that 
stands  scornfully  erect  because  unconvinced  by  so  many 
feet  and  inches.  He  who,  in  such  places,  with  tape-line 
and  rule,  employs  himself  measuring  the  sizes  of  objects, 
and  their  exact  distances  from  each  other,  thereby  endea¬ 
vouring  not  only  to  destroy  what  he  persuades  himself 
are  the  illusions,  but  absolutely  undermining  the  religious 
belief,  of  others,  is  little  better  than  a  heathen. 

There  is  nothing  which  so  perverts  the  heart  as  intel¬ 
lectual  pride.  The  calamities  which  have  most  afflicted 
and  debased  our  race  have  sprung  from  the  abuse  of  the 
free  and  gifted  intellect.  In  the  perversity  of  a  corrupt 
will,  and  in  the  excesses  of  a  presumptuous  understand¬ 
ing,  man  has  frightfully  abused  the  powers  entrusted  to 
him  for  high  and  holy  purposes.  Too  often,  the  extent 
of  human  knowledge  is  the  measure  of  human  crime. 

History,  revelation,  and  tradition,  unite  to  teach  us 
that  the  unchastened  will,  and  the  perverted  genius, 
seeking  to  snatch  the  forbidden  fruit,  have  been  man’s 
first,  greatest,  unforgiven  sin.  While  other  crimes  seem 
rather  to  excite  the  pity  than  to  provoke  the  imme¬ 
diate  wrath  of  heaven,  and,  by  degrading  the  soaring 
spirit  to  the  earth,  serve  to  humble  its  pride,  this  appears 
to  be  a  rebellion  against  Him,  who  is  a  jealous  God,  and 
who  will  avenge  his  cause.  From  the  fall  of  the  son  of 
the  morning  star,  who,  in  the  excess  of  a  presumptuous 
understanding,  dared  to  wage  war  66  against  the  throne 
and  monarchy  of  God,”  down,  through  the  deserted  paths 
of  paradise,  to  the  terrible  convulsions  of  the  last  century, 
when  an  impiety,  second  only  to  that  of  the  archangel 
ruined,  met  with  a  punishment  scarcely  less  horrible,  we 
see,  everywhere,  this  frightful  lesson  written  in  characters 
of  ruin. 


412 


HUMAN  PRIDE. 


Yet  mind  is  not  like  the  “  corporal  rind”  with  which  it 
is  “  immanacled,”  subjected  to  age,  and  decay,  and  de¬ 
crepitude.  Nor  is  it  refluent  in  its  essence,  having  a 
latent  power  within,  or  a  controlling  principle  without, 
which  proclaims,  thus  far  shalt  thou  go,  and  no  farther. 
It  is  immortal  in  its  energies  and  aspirings  —  ever  ad¬ 
vancing  and  to  advance — soaring  still  higher  and  higher 
with  untiring  wing,  and  gaining  new  scope  and  vigour 
from  every  flight  towards  Him  from  whom  it  descended, 
and  with  whose  image  it  is  stamped.  Limitless  and  free, 
its  nature  is  progressive,  its  spring  is  upward ;  no  barrier 
to  check  its  lofty  aspirations ;  no  power  to  control  its 
daring  flight ;  no  obstacle  to  stay  its  resistless  progress, 
but  its  own  wild  and  erring  presumption,  its  own  fiery 
and  impetuous  promptings,  its  own  inherent  and  rebellious 
pride.  As  long  as,  with  humble  heart  and  chastened  will, 
it  seeks  the  end  of  its  being  in  the  ocean  of  truth,  its 
stream  can  never  flow  backward. 

Such  is  the  law  of  all  intelligence.  “  The  rapt  seraph 
that  adores  and  burns,”  the  chief  of  the  hierarchy  of 
Heaven,  the  moment  he  deems  himself  sufficient  for  his 
own  support,  by  that  one  act  of  impious  self-idolatry, 
falls,  headlong,  from  his  high  estate. 

Such  is  the  awful  and  salutary  lesson  which  we  glean 
from  that  book,  which  contains  all  that  is  useful  in  time 
and  hopeful  in  the  future. 

As  if  to  impress  indelibly  upon  the  soul  of  man  the  ter¬ 
rible  consequences  of  a  presumptuous  intellect,  a  jealous 
Deity  has  enforced  the  lesson  with  special  revelations. 
He  has  not  only  bestowed  upon  us  the  godlike  capacity 
of  reason  to  collect  and  compare  the  fruits  of  experience 
in  the  ages  which  have  been  gathered  to  the  past,  but  he 
has  suspended  the  arm  of  the  cherubim,  that  we  might 
enter  the  forbidden  paths  of  paradise  to  read,  beneath  the 
tree  of  knowledge,  the  price  of  disobedience.  And  he 


FAITH  A  BLESSING. 


413 


lias  unbarred  the  gates  of  heaven  itself,  that,  in  the  fall 
of  the  angelic  hosts,  we  might  tremble  at  the  instant  and 
irremediable  ruin  which  followed  the  single  sin  of  thought. 
One  truth  we  therefore  know,  that,  unaccompanied  with 
an  upright  heart  and  a  chastened  will,  with  the  morality 
which  springs  from  religion,  the  measure  of  man’s  intel¬ 
lect  is  the  measure  of  his  ruin.  The  pride  of  wealth 
inspires  contempt,  and  the  pride  of  place  awakens  resent¬ 
ment,— they  are  human  follies,  and  are  punished  by 
human  means ;  but  the  pride  of  intellect,  wherein  the 
gifted  wars  with  the  Giver,  is  a  crime  which  the  dread 
Creator  has  reserved  for  special  retribution. 

There  is  a  remark  of  Sir  H.  Davy,  so  appropriate  to  this 
subject,  that  I  cannot  withhold  it : — “  I  envy  no  quality 
of  the  mind  or  intellect  of  others,  —  not  genius,  wit,  nor 
fancy ;  but  if  I  could  choose  what  would  be  most  delight¬ 
ful,  and,  I  believe,  most  useful  to  me,  I  prefer  a  firm 
religious  belief  to  any  other  blessing ;  for  it  makes  disci¬ 
pline  of  good,  creates  new  hopes  when  earthly  hopes 
vanish,  and  throws  over  the  decay,  the  destruction  of 
existence,  the  most  gorgeous  of  all  lights ;  awakens  life 
in  death,  and,  from  corruption  and  decay,  calls  up  beauty 
and  divinity ;  makes  an  instrument  of  misfortune  and  of 
shame  the  ladder  of  ascent  to  paradise,  and,  far  above  all 
combinations  of  earthly  hopes,  calls  up  the  most  delight¬ 
ful  visions  of  palms  and  amaranths, — the  gardens  of  the 
blest,  and  the  security  of  everlasting  joys,  where  the  sen¬ 
sualist  and  the  skeptic  view  only  gloom,  decay,  annihila¬ 
tion,  and  despair.” 

My  apology  for  touching  on  this  subject,  which  is  with¬ 
out  my  sphere  and  above  my  capacity,  is  the  pain  I  have 
felt,  with  others,  in  witnessing  the  effects  of  the  cavilling 
spirit  of  those  who  plume  themselves  on  being  considered 
the  most  literary  of  modern  travellers  to  the  Holy  Land. 
For  their  peace  of  mind  here,  I  hope  that  they  may  never 
35* 


414  THE  FEARLESSNESS  OF  TRUTH. 

know  how  much  they  have  injured  a  cause,  of  which 
some  of  them  are  the  professed  champions;  and,  for  their 
future  welfare,  every  true  Christian  will  pray  that  the 
evil  has  not  been  premeditated.  I  have  not  meant  to 
reflect  upon  those  who  honestly  doubt ;  for  faith  is  not  a 
product  of  reason,  but  a  gift,  an  inspiration  from  on  high. 
I  allude  to  those  whose  intellectual  pride  prompts  them 
to  parade  their  own  attainments  in  opposition  to,  rather 
than  in  the  search  of,  truth, — which  never  shrinks  from 
a  fair  encounter.  In  the  words  of  Milton,  u  Truth  is 
strong,  next  to  the  Almighty.”  The  mists  of  human 
prejudice  cannot  long  withstand  the  penetrating  light 
of  truth, — which  is  the  purest  ray,  reflected  from  the 
brightest  gem  in  the  diadem  of  the  Great  Jehovah. 

Thursday,  May  18.  Visited,  to-day,  the  church  of  the 
Holy  Sepulchre,  and  other  places  consecrated  by  tradi¬ 
tion.  All  these  localities  have  been  so  repeatedly  and  so 
minutely  described  by  other  writers,  as  to  be  familiar  to 
every  Sunday-school  scholar,  beyond  the  age  of  childhood, 
at  home ;  and  Jerusalem  itself  is,  geographically,  better 
known  to  the  educated  classes  in  the  United  States,  than 
Boston,  New  York,  or  Philadelphia,  to  those  who  do  not 
reside  in  and  have  not  visited  them. 

Neither  need  anything  be  said  of  the  present  condition 
and  future  prospects  of  Palestine ;  for  it  is  a  theme  too 
copious  for  this  work,  even  if  it  were  not  above  the  capa¬ 
city  of  its  author.  I  can  only  express  an  opinion,  founded 
upon  what  I  have  seen  and  heard,  that  the  fanaticism  of 
4  the  Turks  is  fast  subsiding,  with  the  rapid  diminution  of 
their  number,  while  the  Christian  and  Jewish  population 
is  increasing.  As  yet,  this  holds  good  only  of  the  capital. 
The  country  traversed  by  nomadic  tribes,  and  cultivated 
but  in  patches,  continues  to  be  as  insecure  as  it  is  unpro¬ 
ductive.  But,  like  the  swelling  of  the  waters  which  pre¬ 
cede  the  tide  of  flood,  there  are  indications  of  a  favourable 


THE  JEWS. 


415 


change.  The  Muhammedan  rule,  that  political  sirocco, 
which  withers  all  before  it,  is  fast  losing  the  fierce  energy 
which  was  its  peculiar  characteristic,  and  the  world  is 
being  gradually  prepared  for  the  final  dismemberment  of 
the  Ottoman  empire. 

It  needs  but  the  destruction  of  that  power  which,  for 
so  many  centuries,  has  rested  like  an  incubus  upon  the 
eastern  world,  to  ensure  the  restoration  of  the  Jews  to 
Palestine.  The  increase  of  toleration ;  the  assimilation 
of  creeds ;  the  unanimity  with  which  all  works  of  charity 
are  undertaken,  prove,  to  the  observing  mind,  that,  ere 
long,  with  every  other  vestige  of  bigotry,  the  prejudices 
against  this  unhappy  race  will  be  obliterated  by  a  noble 
and  a  God-like  sympathy.  u  Many  a  Thor,  with  all  his 
eddas,  must  first  be  swept  into  dimness  — but  the  time 
will  come.  All  things  are  onward ;  and,  in  God’s  provi¬ 
dence,  all  things  are  good. 

How  eventful,  yet  how  fearful,  is  the  history  of  this 
people  !  “  The  Almighty,  moved  by  their  lamentations, 

determined,  not  only  to  relieve  them  from  Egyptian 
bondage,  but  to  make  them  the  chosen  depositary  of  his 
law,  by  the  observance  of  which  men  might  be  gradually 
prepared  for  the  advent  of  the  Saviour.  Living  at  first 
under  a  theocracy,  the  most  perfect  form  of  government 
that  can  exist,  for  it  unites  infinite  wisdom  with  power 
supreme and  subsequently,  under  judges,  prophets,  and 
kings,  the  Israelites  were  led  through  wondrous  vicissi¬ 
tudes  to  the  trying  scene,  which  crowned  their  perfidy 
with  an  act  so  atrocious  that,  like  the  glimmer  of  an 
earthly  torch  before  the  lurid  glare  of  pandemonium, 
their  previous  crimes  sunk  into  insignificance  ;  and  nature 
thrilled  with  horror  as  she  looked  upon  the  deicides,  their 
hands  imbrued  in  the  blood  they  should  have  worshipped. 
Yet  even  this  sin  will  be  forgiven  them ;  and  the  fulfil¬ 
ment  of  the  prophecy  with  regard  to  the  Egyptians 


416 


GARDEN  OF  GET USE MANE. 


ensures  the  accomplishment  of  the  numerous  ones  which 
predict  the  restoration  of  the  tribes.  Besides  overwhelm¬ 
ing  Pharaoh  and  his  host,  the  Almighty  decreed,  through 
Ezekiel,  that  Egypt  should  never  obey  a  native  sceptre. 
From  Cambyses  to  the  Mamelukes ;  from  Muhammed  to 
Ali  Pasha,  how  wonderfully  has  this  judgment  been  car¬ 
ried  out ! 

From  the  15th  to  the  2 2d  of  May  was  devoted  to 
making  astronomical  observations,  and  reconnoitering  the 
country  for  the  most  eligible  route  to  level  across  to  the 
Mediterranean.  All  the  time  not  appropriated  to  duty, 
was  spent  in  visiting  over  and  over  again  the  interesting 
localities  in  and  around  Jerusalem.  Above  all  others, 
the  spot  least  doubted,  and  very  far  from  the  least  hal¬ 
lowed,  was  the  garden  of  Gethsemane.  It  is  enclosed  by 
a  high  stone  wall,  and  when  we  saw  it,  the  trees  were  in 
blossom ;  the  clover  upon  the  ground  in  bloom,  and  alto¬ 
gether,  in  its  aspect  and  its  associations,  was  better  calcu¬ 
lated  than  any  place  I  know  to  soothe  a  troubled  spirit. 

Eight  venerable  trees,  isolated  from  the  smaller  and 
less  imposing  ones  which  skirt  the  base  of  the  Mount  of 
Olives,  form  a  consecrated  grove.  High  above,  on  either 
hand,  towers  a  lofty  mountain,  with  the  deep,  yawning 
chasm  of  Jehoshaphat  between  them.  Crowning  one  of 
them  is  Jerusalem,  a  living  city;  on  the  slope  of  the 
other  is  the  great  Jewish  cemetery,  a  city  of  the  dead. 
Each  tree  in  this  grove,  cankered,  and  gnarled,  and  fur¬ 
rowed  by  age,  yet  beautiful  and  impressive  in  its  decay, 
is  a  living  monument  of  the  affecting  scenes  that  have 
taken  place  beneath  and  around  it.  The  olive  perpetuates 
itself,  and  from  the  root  of  the  dying  parent  stem,  the 
young  tree  springs  into  existence.  These  trees  are  ac¬ 
counted  1000  years  old.  Under  those  of  the  preceding 
growth,  therefore,  the  Saviour  was  wont  to  rest ;  and 
one  of  the  present  may  mark  the  very  spot  where  he 


GARDEN  OF  GETHSEMANE, 


ANCIENT  TOMBS. 


417 


knelt,  and  prayed,  and  wept.  No  cavilling  doubts  can 
find  entrance  here.  The  geographical  boundaries  are  too 
distinct  and  clear  for  an  instant’s  hesitation.  Here  the 
Christian,  forgetful  of  the  present,  and  absorbed  in  the 
past,  can  resign  himself  to  sad  yet  soothing  meditation. 
The  few  purple  and  crimson  flowers,  growing  about  the 
roots  of  the  trees,  will  give  him  ample  food  for  contem¬ 
plation,  for  they  tell  of  the  suffering  life  and  ensanguined 
death  of  the  Redeemer. 

On  the  same  slope  and  a  little  below  Gethsemane,  facing 
the  city,  are  the  reputed  tombs  of  Absalom,  Zachariah, 
St.  James,  and  Jehoshaphat,  the  last  giving  its  name  to 
the  valley.  Some  of  them  are  hewn  bodily  from  the 
rock,  and  the  whole  form  a  remarkable  group.  That  of 
Absalom  in  particular,  from  its  peculiar  tint,  as  well  as 
from  its  style  of  architecture,  reminded  us  of  the  descrip¬ 
tions  of  the  sepulchral  monuments  of  Petra.  It  is  eight 
feet  square,  surmounted  by  a  rounded  pyramid,  and  there 
are  six  semi-columns  to  each  face,  which  are  of  the  same 
mass  with  the  body  of  the  sepulchre. 

The  tomb  of  Zachariah  is  also  hewn  square  from  the 
rock,  and  its  four  sides  form  a  pyramid.  The  tomb  of  Je¬ 
hoshaphat  has  a  handsomely  carved  door ;  and  a  portico 
with  four  columns  indicates  the  sepulchre  where  St. 
James,  the  apostle,  concealed  himself. 

It  was  in  the  valley  of  Jehoshaphat  that  Melchisedec, 
king  of  Salem,  met  Abraham  on  his  return  from  defeating 
the  five  kings  in  the  vale  of  Siddim.  In  the  depths  of 
this  ravine  Moloch  was  worshipped,  beneath  the  temple 
of  the  Most  High,  which  crowned  the  summit  of  Mount 
Moriah. 

In  the  village  of  Siloam,  the  scene  of  Solomon’s  apos¬ 
tasy,  the  living  have  ejected  the  dead,  and  there  are  as 
many  dwelling  in  tombs  as  in  houses.  Beneath  it,  at  the 
base  of  the  Mount  of  Offence,  is  the  great  burial-ground, 

2b 


418  THE  GREAT  BURIAL-PLACE. 

the  desired  final  resting-place  of  Jews  all  over  the  world. 
The  flat  stones,  rudely  sculptured  with  Hebrew  characters, 
lie,  as  the  tenants  beneath  were  laid,  with  their  faces 
towards  heaven.  In  the  village  above  it  and  in  the  city 
over  against  it,  the  silence  is  almost  as  death-like  as  in 
the  grave-yard  itself.  Here  the  voice  of  hilarity  or  the 
hum  of  social  intercourse  is  never  heard,  and  when  man 
meets  his  fellow  there  is  no  social  greeting.  The  air  here 
never  vibrates  with  the  melodious  voice  of  woman,  the 
nearest  approach  to  a  celestial  sound ;  but,  shrouded  from 
head  to  foot,  she  flits  about,  abashed  and  shrinking  like 
some  guilty  thing.  This  profound  silence  is  in  keeping 
with  the  scene.  Along  the  slope  of  the  hill,  above  the 
village,  the  Master,  on  his  way  to  Bethany,  was  wont 
to  teach  his  followers  the  sublime  truths  of  the  gospel. 
On  its  acclivity,  a  little  more  to  the  north,  he  wept  for 
the  fate  of  Jerusalem.  In  the  garden  below,  he  was 
betrayed,  and  within  those  city  walls  he  was  crucified. 
Everything  is  calculated  to  inspire  with  awe,  and  it  is 
fitting  that,  except  in  prayer,  the  human  voice  should  not 
disturb  these  sepulchral  solitudes. 

From  the  slope  of  the  Mount  of  Olives  projects  a  rock, 
pointed  out  by  tradition  as  the  one  whereon  the  Saviour 
sat  when  he  predicted  and  wept  over  the  fate  of  Jerusalem. 
It  is  farther  alleged  that  upon  this  spot  Titus  pitched  his 
camp  when  besieging  the  city.  Neither  the  prediction 
nor  its  accomplishment  required  such  a  coincidence  to 
make  it  impressive.  The  main  camp  of  the  besiegers  was 
north  of  the  city,  but  as  the  sixth  legion  was  posted  on 
the  Mount  of  Olives,  the  tradition  may  not  be  wholly 
erroneous. 

A  little  higher,  were  some  grotto-like  excavations,  hypo¬ 
thetically  called  the  Tombs  of  the  Prophets ;  and  above 
them,  were  some  arches,  under  which,  it  is  said,  the 
Apostles  composed  the  creed.  Yet  above,  the  spot  is 


VALLEY  OE  JEHOS  AFHAT. 


’ 


'  . 


\ 


VIEW  FROM  THE  MOUNT  OF  OLIVES.  419 

pointed  out  where  the  Messiah  taught  his  disciples  the 
Lord’s  Prayer,  —  that  beautiful  compend  of  all  that  it  is 
necessary  for  man  to  ask,  whether  for  time  or  eternity. 

On  the  summit  of  the  mount  are  many  wheat-fields, 
and  it  is  crowned  with  a  paltry  village,  a  small  mosque, 
and  the  ruined  church  of  the  Ascension.  In  the  naked 
rock,  which  is  the  floor  of  the  mosque,  an  indentation  is 
shown  as  the  foot-print  of  the  Messiah,  when  he  ascended 
to  heaven.  Apart  from  the  sites  of  the  Temple,  of  Cal¬ 
vary,  and  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  the  assigned  localities 
within  the  city  walls,  such  as  the  Arch  of  the  Ecce  Homo, 
and  the  house  of  the  rich  man  before  whose  gate  Lazarus 
lay,  are  unworthy  of  credit.  But  those  without  the 
walls,  like  the  three  first-named  within  them,  are  geogra¬ 
phically  defined,  and  of  imperishable  materials.  While 
one,  therefore,  may  not  be  convinced  with  regard  to  all, 
he  feels  that  the  traditions  respecting  them  are  not  wholly 
improbable. 

From  the  summit,  the  view  was  magnificent.  On  the 
one  hand  lay  J erusalem,  with  its  yellow  walls,  its  towers, 
its  churches,  its  dome-roof  houses,  and  its  hills  and  valleys, 
covered  with  orchards  and  fields  of  green  and  golden  grain, 
while  beneath,  distinct  and  near,  the  mosque  of  Omar, 
the  Harem  (the  Sacred),  lay  exposed  to  our  infidel  gaze, 
with  its  verdant  carpet  and  groves  of  cypress,  beneath 
whose  holy  shade  none  but  the  faithful  can  seek  repose. 
On  the  other  hand  was  the  valley  of  Jordan,  a  barren 
plain,  with  a  line  of  verdure  marking  the  course  of  the 
sacred  river,  until  it  was  lost  in  an  expanse  of  sluggish 
water,  which  we  recognised  as  the  familiar  scene  of  our 
recent  labours.  The  rays  of  the  descending  sun  shone 
full  upon  the  Arabian  shore,  and  we  could  see  the  castle 
of  Kerak,  perched  high  up  in  the  country  of  Moab,  and 
the  black  chasm  of  Zerka,  through  which  flows  the  hot 
and  sulphureous  stream  of  Callirohoe. 


420  A  COXCOMB  OUT  OF  PLACE. 

No  other  spot  in  the  world  commands  a  view  so  deso¬ 
late,  and,  at  the  same  time,  so  interesting  and  impressive. 
The  yawning  ravine  of  Jehoshaphat,  immediately  beneath, 
was  verdant  with  vegetation,  which  became  less  and  less 
luxuriant,  until,  a  few  miles  below,  it  was  lost  in  a  huge 
torrent  bed,  its  sides  bare  precipitous  rock,  and  its  bed 
covered  with  boulders,  whitened  with  saline  deposit,  and 
calcined  by  the  heat  of  a  Syrian  sun.  Beyond  it,  south, 
stretched  the  desert  of  Judea;  and  to  the  north,  was  the 
continuous  chain  of  this  almost  barren  mountain.  These 
mountains  were  not  always  thus  barren  and  unproductive. 
The  remains  of  terraces  yet  upon  their  slopes,  prove  that 
this  country,  now  almost  depopulated,  once  maintained  a 
numerous  and  industrious  people. 

North  of  Gethsemane,  nearer  the  bed  of  the  ravine  and 
the  one-arched  bridge  which  spans  it,  is  a  subterranean 
church,  in  a  grotto  reputed  to  contain  the  tomb  of  the 
Virgin  Mary.  Having  no  faith  in  the  tradition,  which  is 
based  on  an  improbable  legend,  I  did  not  visit  it ;  but  in 
passing  by,  just  from  the  garden,  and  accoutred  in  a  soiled 
and  salt-encrusted  dress,  the  only  one  I  had,  I  saw  a  Eu¬ 
ropean  fop  ascending  the  flight  of  steps,  attired  in  a  short 
frock,  tightly-fitting  pants,  a  jockey-cap  upon  his  head,  a 
riding- whip  in  his  hand,  and  the  lines  of  his  face  wreathed 
in  a  smile  of  smirking  self-conceit, — not  one  feature  of  the 
man  or  his  dress  in  keeping  with  the  scenes  around  him. 

II.  B.  M.  Consul,  Mr.  Finn,  as  I  have  before  said, 
kindly  took  charge  of  the  money  I  sent  to  him ;  and,  fur¬ 
thermore,  put  himself  to  great  trouble  in  paying  the 
drafts  which,  from  time  to  time,  I  made  upon  it;  and, 
also,  in  forwarding  provisions  to  our  depot  at  Ain  Jidv. 
In  all  matters  of  business,  he  was  as  attentive  as  he 
could  have  been  were  he  our  own  consular  representative. 
But  from  none  of  the  foreign  residents  in  Jerusalem  did 
we  receive  the  slightest  personal  attention.  This  I  ascribe 


CIRCUIT  OF  THE  CITY. 


421 


to  the  condition  of  our  wardrobe.  Before  commencing 
the  descent  of  the  Jordan,  we  had  been  compelled  to  send 
back  from  Tiberias  everything  that  could  possibly  be  dis¬ 
pensed  with.  Each  one,  officer  and  man,  retained  only 
the  suit  he  wore,  with  a  change  of  linen ;  and,  whenever 
circumstances  permitted,  did  his  own  washing.  Some¬ 
times,  when  both  of  those  garments  required  the  process, 
we  lay  in  the  water  until  one  of  them  had  dried.  From 
an  indifferent  tailor,  we  procured  a  few  articles  of  dress  a 
short  time  previous  to  our  departure  from  Jerusalem,  but 
had  to  be  economical,  in  order  to  reserve  what  money 
remained  for  the  necessary  expenses  of  the  expedition. 
I  mention  the  circumstance,  not  as  a  matter  of  complaint, 
but  to  account  to  any  of  those  gentlemen  who  may  see 
this,  for  our  toil-worn  and  shabby  appearance. 

Returning  from  the  Mount  of  Olives,  we  passed  along 
the  hill  of  Zion,  and  made  another  circuit  of  the  city. 

A  little  below  the  gate  of  St.  Stephen  is  the  pool  of 
Bethesda,  where  our  Saviour  healed  the  paralytic.  It  is 
now  dry,  and  partly  filled  with  rubbish. 

Yet  farther  south,  in  the  face  of  the  eastern  wall,  near 
the  court  of  the  mosque  of  Omar,  is  the  Golden  gate,  now 
built  up.  Through  this  gate,  it  is  supposed,  the  Messiah  en¬ 
tered  in  triumph  on  the  Sunday  preceding  his  crucifixion. 

Some  distance  down,  is  the  Fountain  of  the  Virgin ; 
and  yet  farther  below,  the  pool  of  Siloam,  which  has  been 
mentioned  before.  The  water,  which  is  hard  and  unpa¬ 
latable  to  the  taste,  has  no  regular  current,  but  ebbs  and 
flows  at  intervals  of  a  few  minutes. 

North  of  the  city,  on  the  margin  of  the  Damascus  road, 
was  a  picturesque  scene — hundreds  of  Jews,  enjoying  the 
fresh  air,  seated  under  enormous  olive-trees — the  women 
all  in  white  shrouds,  the  men  in  various  costumes — some 
with  broad-brimmed  black  hats,  and  many  with  fur  caps. 
There  were  also  many  Turks  and  Christians  abroad, 
36 


422 


THE  CITY  WALLS. 


The  J ewesses,  while  they  enveloped  their  figures  in  loose 
and  uncomely  robes,  allowed  their  faces  to  be  seen ;  and 
the  Christian  and  the  Turkish  female  exhibited,  the  one, 
perhaps,  too  much,  the  other,  nothing  whatever  of  her 
person  and  attire.  There  was  also  a  marriage-procession, 
which  was  more  funereal  than  festive.  The  women,  as 
usual,  clothed  all  in  white,  like  so  many  spectres,  chaunted 
unintelligibly,  in  a  low,  monotonous,  wailing  tone ;  while 
some,  apparently  the  most  antique,  for  they  tottered 
most,  closed  each  bar  with  a  scream  like  a  diapason. 
The  least  natural  and  the  most  pompous  feature  of  the 
scene,  was  the  foreign  consuls,  promenading  with  their 
families,  preceded  by  Janissaries,  with  silver-mounted 
batons,  stalking  solemnly  along,  like  so  many  drum- 
majors  of  a  marching  regiment.  As  the  sun  sank  behind 
the  western  hills,  the  pedestrians  walked  faster,  and  the 
sitters  gathered  themselves  up  and  hastened  within  the 
walls. 

The  present  walls  of  the  city  were  rebuilt  in  the  16th 
century,  and  vary  from  thirty  to  sixty  or  seventy  feet  in 
height,  according  to  the  inequalities  of  the  ground.  They 
are  about  ten  feet  thick  at  the  base,  narrowing  to  the  top. 
The  stones  are  evidently  of  different  eras,  extending  back 
to  the  period  of  Koman  sway,  if  not  to  the  time  when 
Judea  was  an  independent  kingdom.  Some  massive 
pieces  near  the  south-eastern  angle,  bear  marks  of  great 
antiquity.  From  a  projecting  one,  the  Turks  have  a  pre¬ 
diction  that  Muhammed,  their  Prophet,  will  judge  his 
followers.  We  have  also  a  prediction  respecting  this 
vicinity  which  will  prove  as  true  as  the  other  is  fabulous. 
It  is  up  the  valley  of  Jehoshaphat  that  the  prophet  Joel 
declares  the  quick  and  the  dead  shall  come  to  judgment. 

On  the  third  day  after  our  arrival,  we  went  to  Bethle¬ 
hem,  two  hours  distant.  Going  out  of  the  Jaffa  gate,  and 
obliquely  descending  the  western  flank  of  Mount  Zion,  we 


AN  OUTSIDE  EXCURSION. 


423 


crossed  the  valley  of  the  son  of  Hinnom  (Wady  Gehenna, 
or  valley  of  Hell),  by  the  wall  of  the  lower  pool  of  Gihon. 
The  road  then  turned  southwardly,  and  ran  mostly  parallel 
with  the  aqueduct  from  Solomon’s  pools.  This  aqueduct 
consists  of  stones  hollowed  into  cylinders,  well  cemented 
at  the  joints,  and  supported  upon  walls  or  terraces  of  rock 
or  earth,  and  mostly  concealed  from  sight.  Here  and 
there,  a  more  than  usual  luxuriance  of  vegetation  indi¬ 
cated  places  where  water  was  drawn  from  it  to  irrigate 
the  olive  orchards  which,  for  much  of  the  way,  abounded 
on  our  left;  and  occasionally,  a  stone  drawn  aside  dis¬ 
closed  a  fracture  in  the  trough  beneath,  where  the  tra¬ 
veller  might  quench  his  thirst. 

We  soon  came  to  the  well  of  the  Magi,  assigned  by  tra¬ 
dition  as  the  spot  where  the  star  reappeared  to  the  wise 
men  from  the  east.  The  country  on  our  left  was  here 
broken  and  rough,  and  on  the  right  was  the  plain  of 
Rephaim,  with  the  convent  of  John  the  Baptist,  erected 
on  the  spot  where  the  great  precursor  was  born,  and  the 
grotto  where  the  Virgin  Mary  pronounced  that  sublime 
hymn,  beginning  “  My  soul  doth  magnify  the  Lord.” 
We  next  came  to  the  tomb  of  Rachel,  in  the  plain  of 
Ramah,  —  a  modern  Turkish  building,  but  the  locality  of 
which  is  believed  to  be  correctly  assigned.  It  is  a  small 
building,  with  two  apartments,  the  one  over  the  tomb 
being  surmounted  by  a  dome.  On  the  right  was  the  wil¬ 
derness  of  St.  John,  wherein  the  Baptist  practised  his 
austerities.  In  that  direction,  too,  is  the  valley  of  Elah, 
where  David  slew  the  giant ;  and  in  the  valley  before  us, 
it  is  said  the  army  of  Sennacherib  the  Assyrian  was  en¬ 
camped,  when 

“  The  angel  of  death  spread  his  wings  on  the  blast.” 

Ascending  the  hill  from  the  tomb,  and  for  the  second  time 
during  the  ride  recognising  the  Dead  Sea  through  gorges 


424 


BETHLEHEM. 


in  the  mountains,  we  passed  some  extensive  olive  orchards, 
and  after  turning  aside  to  the  left  to  look  at  a  nearly  dry 
cistern  called  David’s  Well,  and  admiring  the  luxuriant 
groves  of  olives  and  figs,  and  the  many  vineyards  which 
beautify  the  head  of  the  ravine  of  Ta’amirah,  we  entered 
Bethlehem,  the  66  city  of  king  David,”  and  the  birthplace 
of  the  Redeemer ;  and  went  direct  to  the  Franciscan  con¬ 
vent,  a  large,  massive,  and  ancient  building.  The  church 
within  it,  erected  by  the  Empress  Helena,  is  in  the  form 
of  a  cross.  It  is  supported  by  four  rows  of  twelve  columns 
each,  without  a  ceiling,  and  presented  the  appearance 
of  a  net-work  of  longitudinal  and  transverse  beams  of 
wood,  with  the  roof  above  them.  But  this  church,  and 
the  grotto  of  the  Nativity  within  it,  has  been  repeatedly 
and  accurately  described. 

Many  visitors  to  Bethlehem  have  persuaded  themselves 
to  use  the  words  of  a  recent  one,  “  that  the  Saviour  was 
not  born  in  a  subterraneous  cavern  like  this,  difficult  of 
access  to  cattle,  but  in  an  approachable  stable  attached  to 
the  khan,  or  inn,  in  which  the  virgin  mother  could  not  be 
accommodated.”  Without  dwelling  on  our  own  observa¬ 
tion  of  the  frequent  and  almost  universal  appropriation, 
where  practicable,  of  caverns  and  recesses  in  the  rocks  for 
sheltering  man  and  beast  from  the  heat  and  inclemency 
of  the  weather,  and  forbearing  to  quote  from  Stephens, 
whose  experience  was  similar  to  our  own,  I  extract  some 
passages  from  Calmet’s  dissertation  upon  the  habitations 
of  the  ancient  Hebrews,  to  show  that  such  places  were 
frequently  selected  as  desirable  human  dwellings. 

“  The  rocks  and  the  caverns  were  not  only  places  of 
retreat,  and  forts  against  enemies,  in  times  of  war  and 
trouble;  they  were  also  ordinary  dwelling-places,  both 
commodious  and  agreeable,  in  the  country  of  the  Israel¬ 
ites.  On  the  coasts  of  the  Red  Sea  and  the  Persian  Gulf, 
in  the  mountains  of  Armenia,  in  the  Balearic  Islands, 


PLEASING  SCENE. 


425 


and  in  the  isle  of  Malta,  we  learn  that  certain  people  had 
no  other  homes  than  the  hollows  of  the  rocks,  scooped  out 
by  their  own  labours ;  from  which  circumstance  they 
took  the  name  of  Troglodytes,  which  signifies,  in  Greek, 
those  who  hide  themselves  in  caverns. 

“  In  short,  they  were  the  ordinary  retreat  of  the  prophets 
and  the  just  in  times  of  persecution,  to  avoid  the  machi¬ 
nations  of  the  wicked ;  and  in  times  of  peace,  to  fly  from 
the  corruptions  of  the  world,  and  to  exercise  themselves 
in  practices  of  piety  and  prayer.  It  was  this  mode  of  life 
that  Elias,  St.  John  the  Baptist,  and  Jesus  Christ  adopted. 

66  The  summer  habitations  were  of  various  kinds,  or 
rather,  they  had  various  means  of  protecting  themselves 
from  the  extreme  heat  of  the  sun.  Sometimes  it  was  in 
places  deep  and  hidden,  where  its  ardour  could  not  pene¬ 
trate,  under  crypts,  subterranean  porticoes,  &c.”* 

To  the  east  of  Bethlehem  is  the  hill  where  the  shep¬ 
herds  heard  the  annunciation  of  the  birth  of  the  Messiah  ; 
and  in  the  plain  below,  the  field  where  Ruth  gleaned  after 
the  reapers.  The  country  around  was  luxuriant  with 
vegetation,  and  the  yellow  grain,  even  as  we  looked,  was 
falling  beneath  the  sickle.  Variegated  flint,  chalk  and 
limestone,  without  fossils,  cropped  out  occasionally  on  the 
hill-sides ;  but  along  the  lower  slopes,  and  in  the  bottom 
of  the  valley,  were  continuous  groves,  with  a  verdant 
carpet  beneath  them.  It  was  the  most  rural  and  the 
loveliest  spot  we  had  seen  in  Palestine.  From  among 
many  flowers  we  gathered  a  beautiful  white  one,  free 
from  all  earthly  taint,  fit  emblem  of  the  purity  of  the 
infant  Godhead. 

*  Those  who  wish  to  see  more  on  the  subject,  are  referred  to  Pliny,  lib. 
vi.  c.  29.  Strabo,  lib.  xi.  c.  26.  Diodorus  Siculus,  lib.  v.  Josephus’ 
Antiq.,lib.  xiv.  c.  27,  where  he  speaks  of  the  caverns  of  Galilee.  Genesis, 
xix.  30.  Judges,  xv.  8.  1  Kings,  x.  11;  xxiv.  4.  Judges,  vi.  2. 

1  Kings,  xiii.  6.  3  Kings,  xviii.  4.  Hebrews,  xi.  38. 

36* 


426  DEPARTURE  FROM  JERUSALEM. 

This  was  not  the  only  time  we  visited  Bethlehem ;  but, 
although  my  notes  are  copious,  I  deem  it  unnecessary  to 
say  anything  more  of  a  place  which  has  been  so  often 
and  so  well  described.  The  same  remark  holds  good  of 
the  tombs  of  the  kings,  or  of  the  Empress  Helena,  the 
grotto  of  Jeremiah,  and  other  places  within  and  without 
the  walls  of  Jerusalem. 

In  the  Latin  convent  at  Jerusalem,  poor  pilgrims  are 
allowed  to  remain  thirty  days,  with  two  meals  a-day,  free 
of  cost ;  in  the  one  at  Bethlehem,  three  days ;  and  at 
Ramleh,  one  day.  No  Frank  is  permitted  to  hold  real 
estate  in  Palestine,  or,  I  believe,  in  any  part  of  the 
Turkish  dominions.  In  the  country  around  Jerusalem, 
olives,  figs,  wheat,  barley,  dhoura,  lentils,  melons,  cucum¬ 
bers,  artichokes,  and  many  leguminous  plants  and  Irish 
potatoes  are  cultivated ;  the  last  in  small,  experimental 
patches.  The  silk-worm  is  also  reared,  and  some  little 
silk  is  made. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

FROM  JERUSALEM  TO  JAFFA. 

Monday,  May  22.  Having  completed  all  the  necessary 
arrangements,  given  the  officers  and  men  time  to  recruit, 
and  to  see  Jerusalem  and  its  vicinity,  I  settled  the 
accounts  of  the  Expedition  with  H.  B.  M.  Consul,  Mr. 
Finn,  broke  up  the  camp,  and  started  to  run  the  line  of 
level  across  to  the  Mediterranean,  thirty-three  miles  dis¬ 
tant,  in  a  direct  line.  The  desert  being  passed,  we  sub¬ 
stituted  mules  for  camels,  to  transport  our  baggage. 

1  P.  M.  We  recommenced  levelling  from  the  bench¬ 
mark  we  had  made  north-west  of  Jerusalem,  and  carried 


DESCEND  THE  MOUNTAIN. 


427 


the  line  to  the  highest  point,  but  little  less  than  four 
thousand  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  Dead  Sea,  before 
skirting  down  the  Wady  Liifte. 

The  road,  which  was  frightful,  ran  at  first  along  the 
mountain  ridge,  looking  down  into  the  beautiful  valley, 
with  a  convent  toward  the  head  of  the  gorge,  and  Ghebel 
Samwil,  the  highest  peak  in  Palestine,  towering  to  the 
north-west,  its  summit  crowned  with  a  ruined  mosque. 
It  is  supposed  to  be  the  Mozpeh  of  the  Old  Testament,  the 
reputed  birth-place  and  the  tomb  of  the  Prophet  Samuel. 

We  here  overtook  a  number  of  Jews,  of  both  sexes  and 
various  ages.  They  were  separating,  one  part  to  return 
to  the  city,  the  other  to  pursue  the  route  towards  the  sea 
coast.  Their  sobs  and  tears,  and  clinging  embraces,  were 
truly  affecting. 

The  vegetation  increased  in  luxuriance,  and  in  vivid¬ 
ness  of  colour,  as  we  descended.  The  mountain-sides 
are  cut  in  terraces,  many  of  them  but  a  few  yards  wide, 
bearing  olive,  fig,  and  apricot  trees,  and  numerous  exten¬ 
sive  vineyards. 

At  3.25,  crossed  a  massive  stone  bridge  of  one  arch, 
which  spans  the  now  dry  torrent  bed  of  Kulonieh,  and 
proceeding  half  a  mile  farther,  stopped  for  the  night  on 
the  edge  of  an  olive-grove,  a  short  distance  from  a  foun¬ 
tain.  The  tents  looked  picturesque,  pitched  upon  the 
green  sward,  with  the  highly  cultivated  valley  before, 
and  the  village  of  Kulonieh  perched  high  on  the  hill 
above  them.  Soon  after  camping,  we  caught  a  cameleon, 
six  inches  long.  It  was  deep  green,  with  dark  spots ;  but 
the  colour  became  of  a  lighter  hue,  and  turned  brown, 
when  the  animal  was  placed  upon  a  stoned 

By  a  regulation  most  necessary  for  the  security  of  tra- 

*  This  cameleon  was  brought  safely  home,  together  with  a  pheasant 
from  the  vale  of  Sharon.  Nearly  everything  else,  including  some  singular 
blue  pigeons  from  the  Dead  Sea,  perished. 


428  ACUTENESS  OF  ARAB  HEARING. 

vellers,  the  nomadic  tribes  are  not  permitted  to  pitch 
their  tents  west  of  Jerusalem.  The  only  extortion  to  be 
now  apprehended,  is  from  the  powerful  and  rapacious 
family  of  Abu  Ghiish,  the  sheikh  of  which,  Lamartine, 
with  his  usual  exaggeration,  represents  as  having  fifty 
thousand  Arabs,  subject  to  his  sway.  In  order  to  evade 
the  severe  military  conscription  under  the  Egyptian  rule, 
some  of  the  Arabs  of  this  district  put  out  one  of  their 
eyes ;  but  Ibrahim  Pasha  counteracted  their  purpose,  by 
forming  a  one-eyed  regiment. 

The  night  was  clear,  and  quite  cool;  the  dew  fell 
heavily,  and  the  morning  found  us  enveloped  in  a  mist. 

Tuesday,  May  23.  At  4  A.  M.,  very  cold.  Wishing  to 
send  to  Jaffa  some  things,  which  were  cumbersome  to 
carry  about,  and  could  be  dispensed  with,  I  roused  one  of 
the  Arab  mule-drivers,  and  bade  him  go  up  to  the  village, 
about  a  mile  distant,  and  procure  another  mule.  He 
sprang  instantly  to  his  feet,  and,  from  where  he  stood, 
called  out  in  a  stentorian  voice  to  some  one  in  the  village. 
To  my  surprise,  he  was  answered  almost  immediately,  and 
very  soon  afterwards  the  mule  was  brought.  It  is  astonish¬ 
ing  how  far,  and  how  distinctly,  the  Arabs  can  hear  and 
recognise  each  other’s  voices  in  this  hilly  country.  In 
the  descent  of  the  Jordan,  and  repeatedly  along  the  cliffs 
of  the  Dead  Sea,  when  we  could  only  hear  a  faint  halloo, 
or  inarticulate  sounds,  our  swarthy  friends  could  distin¬ 
guish  words,  and  sometimes  recognise  the  tribe  of  the 
speaker  from  his  voice.  They  seem  to  have  distinctive 
cries,  corresponding  to  the  whoops  of  our  Indians. 

We  have  often  thought  that  we  detected  a  resemblance, 
in  many  respects,  between  the  Arabs  and  our  North  Ame¬ 
rican  Indians ;  but  we  were  like  those  who,  at  a  super¬ 
ficial  glance,  pronounce  a  portrait  to  be  an  exact  simili¬ 
tude  of  the  original,  which,  on  a  close  inspection,  exhibits 
such  traits  of  difference,  that  they  are  astonished  at  their 


NORTH  AMERICAN  INDIAN.  429 

first  impression.  The  nomadic  mode  of  life,  the  colour 
of  the  skin,  the  prominent  cheek-bones,  and  the  black 
hair  and  eyes,  present  a  similarity  of  appearance  which, 
at  first,  misleads  an  observer.  By  slow  degrees,  however, 
traits  of  character  are  developed,  and  peculiarities  of 
manner  exhibited,  which  proclaim  a  marked  and  striking 
difference. 

In  his  most  repulsive  aspect,  the  North  American 
savage  is  a  being  lusty  and  ferocious,  over  whose  counte¬ 
nance  the  light  of  intelligence  casts  but  a  feeble  and  lin¬ 
gering  ray.  He  exhibits  no  trait  whatever  of  that  fore¬ 
thought  which  is  the  great  characteristic  of  the  grandeur 
of  the  human  mind.  To  gather  the  fruit,  he  fells  the 
tree ;  he  slaughters  the  oxen  bestowed  upon  him  by  the 
missionary  to  till  his  lands ;  and  with  the  fragments  of 
his  plough  he  builds  the  fire  to  roast  his  food.  From  his 
civilized  neighbour  he  seeks  nothing  but  gunpowder,  to 
destroy  his  brethren,  and  intoxicating  spirits,  to  destroy 
himself;  and,  relying  upon  the  undying  avarice  of  the  white 
man,  he  never  dreams  of  manufacturing  them.  The  son 
murders  the  father,  to  relieve  him  from  the  ennui  of  old 
age,  and  his  wife  destroys  the  fruit  of  his  passion  in  her 
womb,  to  escape  the  duties  of  a  nurse.  Fie  snatches  the 
bleeding  scalp  from  his  yet  living  foe ;  he  tears  the  flesh 
from  his  body ;  he  roasts  it  and  devours  it  amid  songs  of 
triumph  ;  and  if  he  can  procure  ardent  spirits,  he  drinks 
to  intoxication,  to  madness,  to  death,  insensible  alike  to 
the  reason  which  restrains  man  by  his  fears,  and  the 
instinct  which  repels  the  animal  by  distaste.  To  all 
human  judgment,  he  seems  a  doomed  being,  smitten  for 
his  crimes  by  an  avenging  Hand,  in  the  innermost  recesses 
of  his  moral  conformation,  so  that  he  who  regards  him 
with  an  observant  eye,  trembles  as  he  views.*  Hence  it 

*  This  view  of  the  character  of  the  North  American  Indian  has  once 
before  been  presented,  in  the  columns  of  a  periodical. 


430 


DESTINY  OF  THE  INDIAN. 


has  been  charged  that,  u  in  the  commission  of  a  crime, 
the  savage  but  follows  his  nature,  while,  by  the  same  act, 
we  violate  our  own and  it  is  therefore  inferred  that  he 
can  never  be  reclaimed.  They  who  reason  thus  are  but 
shallow  observers,  and  confound  the  bias  of  education 
with  inherent  propensities.  The  child  of  the  meekest 
Christian  of  the  land,  if  torn  from  the  parental  roof,  and 
brought  up  from  infancy  in  a  wigwam,  would  become  a 
blood-thirsty  and  ferocious  savage ;  while  the  papoose, 
exchanging  conditions,  might  be  a  zealous  missionary  of 
the  Gospel.  Instances  of  the  former  are  frequent  in  our 
border  history ;  and  an  educated  Indian,  not  very  long 
since,  died,  holding  a  commission  in  the  medical  corps  of 
the  Navy. 

Beneath  the  frightful  exterior  of  the  North  American 
savage,  there  are  noble  attributes.  Such  races  are  as 
necessary  for  the  well-being  of  the  human  family  as  the 
whirlwind  to  the  atmosphere  when  it  sweeps  through  the 
forest  and  bears  off  the  decaying  and  tainting  vegetation. 
Such  men,  or  not  far  removed  from  such,  were  the  ancient 
Northmen,  the  Goths,  and  the  Vandals.  And  now  the 
countries  overrun  and  settled  by  them  are  the  most 
polished  on  the  surface  of  the  globe.  England  occupies  the 
key-stone  of  the  arch  of  civilization;  France  has  long  been 
proverbial  for  its  refinement ;  and  in  Italy,  the  temple  of 
the  arts,  the  painter  and  the  sculptor  seek  for  the  most 
beautiful  models.  The  tide  is  now  setting  the  other  way, 
and  civilization  is  overwhelming  barbarism.  Whether  the 
Indian  is  to  be  swept  away,  or  the  red-man  become 
merged  with  the  white,  time  alone  can  determine. 

The  distinctive  trait  of  the  American  savage  is  his  vin¬ 
dictiveness  towards  an  enemy.  The  ruling  passion  of  an 
Arab  is  greediness  of  gold,  which  he  will  clutch  from  the 
unarmed  stranger,  or  filch  from  an  unsuspecting  friend. 
The  Indian,  seeking  only  a  trophy,  as  a  record  of  his 


ARAB  CONTRASTED  WITH  THE  INDIAN.  431 

achievement,  is  content  with  the  scalp  of  the  foe  he  has 
slain  in  war.  The  Arab  lurks  in  the  crevices  of  the  rock, 
and,  from  his  covert,  fires  upon  the  peaceful  traveller, 
that  he  may  rifle  his  body  of  money  and  clothes.  It  is 
the  ambition  of  an  Indian  father  to  bestow  his  daughter 
on  the  bravest  warrior  of  the  tribe  :  an  Arab  sheikh  will 
sell  his  child  to  the  meanest  fellah,  if  he  be  the  highest 
bidder.  The  Arab  is  yet  more  lascivious  than  the  Indian  ; 
and  in  no  part  of  the  world  is  the  condition  of  woman 
more  abject  than  it  is  in  the  East.  The  wandering  Arab 
does  not,  like  the  wild  Indian,  destroy  the  implements  of 
agriculture,  but  watches  and  waits,  and  sweeps  off  the 
fresh-gathered  harvest  of  the  laborious  and  timid  fellahin. 
The  Arab  will  extort  money  from  his  guest,  and  expects 
a  backshish  for  the  slightest  act  of  hospitality.  The 
Indian,  without  dreaming  of  recompense,  will  share  his 
last  morsel,  and,  with  his  life,  protect  the  stranger  who 
has  sought  the  shelter  of  his  wigwam.  To  the  noisy 
children  of  the  desert,  intoxicating  drink  is  unknown ; 
and,  in  that  respect,  their  condition  is  far  superior  to  that 
of  the  more  taciturn  but  intemperate  hunters  of  the  forest. 
But  the  greatest  distinction  of  all  is,  that  while  the  North 
American  savage,  except  in  war  or  the  chase,  evinces  no 
forethought  whatever,  the  Arabian  is  cautious  to  the 
extreme  of  timidity.  The  one  is  reckless,  the  other  cal¬ 
culating.  The  one,  when  roused,  is  implacable ;  the 
other  barters  forgiveness  of  the  deepest  injuries  for  a  new 
wife,  or  her  equivalent  in  money.  The  Arab,  therefore, 
to  the  best  of  my  judgment,  is  as  far  inferior  to  the 
North  American  Indian  as  an  insatiate  love  of  gold  is 
more  ignoble  than  a  spirit  of  revenge.  The  distinction 
drawn  by  Chateaubriand  is  as  beautiful  as  it  is  true  :  — 
“In  the  American  (Indian)  everything  proclaims  the 
savage  who  has  not  yet  arrived  at  a  state  of  civilization , 


432  SCRIPTURAL  LOCALITY. 

in  the  Arab,  everything  indicates  the  civilized  man  who 
has  returned  to  the  savage  state/’ 

Started,  after  an  early  breakfast ;  the  road,  execrable, 
leading  along  the  skirts  and  over  the  crests  of  mountains ; 
the  ravines  and  the  slopes  fertile  and  highly  cultivated ; 
the  ridges  bare  and  verdureless.  From  the  highest  peak, 
we  had  anticipated  another  and  a  last  view  of  J erusalem, 
but  it  was  concealed  by  intervening  hills.  Nebi  Samwil 
towered  above  us  to  the  north.  The  country  bordering 
the  ravine  became  more  beautiful  as  we  descended  in  the 
afternoon,  and  a  little  before  sunset  we  encamped  at  ’Ain 
Dilbeh  (Fountain  of  the  Plane-tree),  near  Beit  Nakubeh 
(House  of  Nakubeh).  There  were  some  old  ruins  about 
the  spring.  In  the  bed  of  the  ravine  there  were  fields  of 
grain ;  on  the  lower  slopes,  vineyards  and  olive-groves ; 
above  them,  dwarf  oak-trees  and  bushes ;  and  towards 
and  along  the  summits,  huge  masses  and  scattered  frag¬ 
ments  of  rock.  On  a  hill  in  the  distance,  was  a  ruin, 
pointed  out  as  the  castle  of  the  Macchabees ;  and  among 
those  hills,  it  is  supposed  that  the  Virgin  visited  the 
mother  of  the  Baptist.  In  our  route  this  day,  we  may 
have  crossed  the  dry  bed  of  the  brook  where  David 
gathered  the  pebbles,  with  one  of  which  he  slew  the 
Philistine.  In  this  neighbourhood,  it  is  supposed  was 
the  village  of  Emmaus,  on  the  road  to  which  our  Saviour 
conversed  with  two  of  his  disciples  after  his  resurrection. 

We  found  here  the  hop-trefoil,  a  small  clover,  with 
yellow  flowers  and  liop-like  heads;  also  a  pink,  with 
viscid  flower-stalks,  the  first  sometimes  seen,  the  last 
common,  at  home. 

From  the  vestiges  about  it,  this  spot  seemed  to  be  a 
favourite  camping-ground  of  travellers.  We  found  here 
some  mules  laden  with,  baggage,  marked  “  Miss  Cooper, 
by  steamer  Novelty.”  The  lady,  attended  by  an  escort, 
soon  after  made  her  appearance,  and  expressed  the  opi- 


AN  ARAB  SHEIKH.  433 

nion,  which  will  be  confirmed  as  she  advances,  that  “  the 
roads  are  very  had  in  this  country.” 

Every  preceding  camp  seems  to  have  left  its  colony 
here.  We  were  annoyed  during  the  night  by  all  kinds 
of  vermin.  The  weather  was  cool  and  damp,  and  the 
cries  of  jackals  down  in  the  ravine  were  incessant.  The 
cry  very  much  resembles  that  of  a  person  in  distress. 

Wednesday,  May  24.  Descended  the  ravine  into  the 
vale  of  Jeremiah  by  the  village  of  ’Kuryet  el  ’Enab  (vil¬ 
lage  of  grapes),  the  Kirjath-jearim  of  the  Bible,  where  it 
is  said  the  prophet  was  born.  When  passing  the  village 
the  sheikh,  with  the  evident  purpose  of  levying  tribute, 
came  out  and  forbade  us  to  level  through  his  territory ; 
but  we  paid  no  attention  to  the  terrible  Abu  Ghusli 
(father  of  lies) .  He  then  rode  within  forty  or  fifty  yards 
of  the  interpreter,  who  was  in  advance  of  the  levelling 
party,  and  called  out  in  an  imperious  tone,  a  toorgeman, 
talon !”  (interpreter,  come  here)  ;  to  which  the  latter, 
half  turning  round,  but  without  rising  from  his  position, 
replied  “  talon  !”  The  sheikh  at  length  went  up  to  him, 
and  demanded  by  what  right  we  attempted  to  pass 
through  his  territory,  stating  that  none  could  do  so  with¬ 
out  his  permission.  The  firman  was  shown  to  him. 
After  reading  it,  he  said  that  it  mentioned  nothing  about 
surveying  the  road,  and  that  one  thousand  armed  men 
could  not  pas's  against  his  will.  We  told  him  that  he  had 
better  consent  then,  for  we  had  the  sanction  of  his  supe¬ 
riors  and  were  not  to  be  bullied.  During  the  altercation, 
our  Arab  cook  was  dreadfully  alarmed,  and  reminding  us 
that  Abu  Ghush  was  a  powerful  sheikh,  implored  us  in 
his  broken  English  not  to  provoke  him. 

Great  exception  was  taken  by  this  sheikh  to  ’Awad, 
our  Ta’amirah  guide,  who,  he  swore,  should  not  pass 
through  his  territory ;  to  which  we  replied  that  his  ser¬ 
vices  were  necessary  to  us,  and  that  we  would  protect 
37  .  2c 


434 


TERRACED  HILLS. 


him.  ’Awad  said  to  him,  in  a  deprecating  tone,  that  he 
was  only  a  poor  fellah.  We  may  judge  of  his  fright  and 
feigned  humility,  from  the  supreme  contempt  in  which  it 
is  known  that  the  predatory  and  pastoral  Arabs  hold  the 
fellahin. 

The  sheikh  was  of  a  light  complexion,  with  Euro¬ 
pean  features,  and  wearing  a  red  moustache — very  much 
resembling  a  gaunt,  rough  Jew.  He  is  brother  to  the 
celebrated  Abu  Ghush,  so  long  the  terror  of  this  dis¬ 
trict,  who,  for  his  exactions,  robberies,  and  murders,  was 
sent  not  long  since  to  Constantinople,  and  is  now,  it  is 
said,  an  exile  on  the  banks  of  the  Euxine. 

When  abreast  of  the  village,  in  which  there  are  the 
ruins  of  a  Christian  church,  an  old  Arab  called  out,  66  0 
ye  Muslims,  come  forth  and  see  the  Christians  searching 
for  treasures  concealed  by  their  forefathers  in  this  coun¬ 
try.”  Great  curiosity  was  exhibited  by  the  people  with 
respect  to  our  operations.  All  desired  to  look  through 
the  telescope,  and  even  little  children  were  held  up  for  a 
peep. 

Leaving  the  village  on  the  left,  the  road  led  over  a  high 
ridge ;  the  vegetation  extremely  luxuriant,  and  the  hill¬ 
sides  terraced,  with  many  vines  and  fig-trees,  and  groves 
of  the  olive  on  each  side.  The  olive  is  only  picturesque 
in  clusters.  Individually  it  is  an  ungainly  tree.  With 
the  appearance  of  greater  strength  than  the  oak,  its 
branches  are  less  graceful,  and  its  leaves  are  smaller  and 
less  vivid  in  colour.  The  old  trunks,  gnarled  and  twisted, 
present  to  the  eye  vast  bodies  with  disproportioned  limbs. 
Those  which  are  partially  decayed  are  protected  by  stones 
piled  up  in  the  hollows. 

From  the  summit  of  the  ridge,  through  the  mist  which 
curtained  it  in  the  distance,  we  beheld  the  blue,  the  glo¬ 
rious  Mediterranean.  Not  the  soldiers  of  Xenophon 
cheered  more  heartily  than  we  did  when  we  beheld  its 


THE  YALE  OF  SHARON. 


435 


broad  expanse  stretching  towards  the  west,  where  lay  our 
country  and  our  homes. 

Crossing  over  a  rugged,  rocky  country,  we  descended 
by  a  precipitous  road,  a  slope  covered  with  bushes  and 
shrubbery,  to  a  dense  olive  grove  near  the  village  of 
Sarus,  where  we  camped  for  the  night. 

The  whole  face  of  the  country  since  leaving  Jerusalem 
bears  evidence  of  a  high  state  of  cultivation,  and  after  the 
calcined  cliffs  of  the  Dead  Sea  and  the  utter  barrenness 
of  the  desert  of  Judea,  our  senses  are  soothed  by  the  soft 
and  refreshing  green  of  these  terraced  hills. 

In  the  middle  of  the  day  the  weather  was  oppressively 
warm,  and  being  much  fatigued  we  retired  early 

uTo  sleep  —  to  dream, 

But  in  that  sleep”  —  what  bugs  may  come. 

Thursday,  May  25.  Weather  cloudy,  with  a  fine  west¬ 
erly  breeze.  Descended  the  dreadful  road  which  leads 
down  Wady  Ali,  and  through  Bab  Wady  Ali  (Gate  of 
the  Ravine  of  Ali),  issued  out  upon  the  vale  of  Sharon, 
covered  with  immense  fields  of  ripened  grain ;  the  thick, 
clustering  stems  bending  to  the  breeze,  and  their  golden 
surfaces  chequered  with  the  shadows  of  passing  clouds. 
Behind  us  were  the  rugged  mountains ;  before  us  the 
lovely  plain,  dotted  with  villages,  and  covered  with  a 
whole  population  gathering  the  harvest ;  and  beyond,  in 
the  distance,  the  pellucid  and  far-stretching  sea,  over 
which  lay  our  homeward  route.  In  the  ravine  we  saw 
in  great  profusion  the  corn  poppy,  its  bright  scarlet  flowers 
presenting  a  gorgeous  appearance.  The  acacia  was  also 
abundant. 

Camped  under  some  tamarisk  trees,  near  the  village  of 
Dier  Ayoub,  and  received  a  visit  from  its  sheikh.  10 
P.  M.,  temperature  of  the  air  78°. 

Friday,  May  26.  A  pleasant  morning;  wind  light,  with 


GAZA. 


436 

passing  clouds;  a  dense  fog  to  seaward.  The  night  passed 
with  less  annoyance  than  usual  from  fleas  and  other 
insects.  Long  before  sunrise,  the  industrious  fellahin 
were  at  work  in  the  fields.  The  scene  was  pastoral  and 
picturesque.  The  herdsmen,  with  their  flocks  of  black 
goats  on  the  hill-sides,  the  cattle  grazing  below  them ;  the 
reapers  among  the  grain,  the  women  gleaning  after  them ; 
while  the  armed  Nubian  guard  sat  under  the  shadow 
of  a  tree,  his  ample  costume  setting  off  his  jet-black 
skin.  A  light  wind  played  in  the  loose  folds  of  his 
white  aba,  and  thence  sweeping  on,  bowed  down  the 
heads  of  the  unreaped  barley,  presenting  an  appearance 
like  the  surface  of  a  still  lake,  when  clouds  are  drifting 
over  it. 

We  soon  passed  the  Bir  Dier  Ayoub,  the  road,  which 
was  yet  but  a  bridle-path,  becoming  better,  and  the  moun¬ 
tains  receding  on  each  side,  and  giving  at  once  an  almost 
uninterrupted  view  of  the  plain.  On  the  summit  of  a 
lofty  hill  before  us,  was  the  village  of  Latrun  (Thief), 
named  by  tradition  as  the  birth-place  of  the  repentant 
thief  upon  the  cross.  Instead  of  following  the  road  over 
the  hill  and  through  the  village,  we  skirted  its  southern 
base,  and  passing  the  well,  struck  first  into  the  Gaza  road, 
and  then  into  the  usual  road  to  Ramleh. 

Gaza,  the  famous  town  of  the  Philistines,  in  a  direct 
line,  was  about  thirty  miles  distant.  Once  the  residence 
of  a  king,  it  is  now  a  paltry  village.  It  was  taken  by 
Alexander  the  Great,  after  a  siege  of  two  months ;  and 
Quintus  Curtius  relates  that,  in  imitation  of  Achilles,  the 
ungenerous  conqueror,  who  was  twice  wounded  during  the 
siege,  dragged  twice  round  the  walls,  at  his  chariot-wheels, 
the  body  of  the  general  who  had  gallantly  defended  it. 

Pursuing  the  road  to  Ramleh,  we  crossed  Merj  ibn 
’Amir,  an  extensive  plain  under  high  cultivation.  Ascend¬ 
ing  a  slight  eminence,  we  passed  the  village  of  Kubab. 


LOADING  A  DONKEY. 


487 


The  scene  must  have  been  similar  to  those  of  the  days  of 
Scripture.  Below  the  village,  and  on  the  sides  of  the 
hill,  the  fields,  in  some  spots,  were  yellow  with  the  ripened 
grain ;  in  others,  large  quantities,  newly  reaped,  were 
spread  upon  the  threshing-floors,  and  the  cattle,  yoked  in 
couples,  were  treading  it  out;  the  whole  population  of 
the  village  was  at  work,  reaping,  gleaning,  tossing  in  the 
sheaves,  or  raking  aside  the  chaff.  We  encamped  in  the 
field  by  the  road-side. 

Saturday,  May  27.  A  fine  breeze  from  the  westward 
gave  us  a  delicious  temperature.  Early  in  the  morning, 
two  jackals  came  nearly  up  to  the  camp,  and  narrowly 
escaped  paying,  with  their  lives,  for  their  temerity. 
They  were  frequently  around  us  at  night,  and  their  cries 
were  the  accompaniments  of  our  slumbers  ;  but  they  had 
not,  before,  ventured  so  near  in  open  day.  Towards  mid¬ 
day,  the  wind  lulled,  and  the  heat  was  oppresssive. 

The  road  continued  over  the  almost  level  plain.  Hun¬ 
dreds  of  villagers,  men,  women  and  children,  with  camels, 
mules,  and  donkeys,  were  employed  getting  in  the  harvest. 
The  donkey  is  loaded  in  a  singular  manner :  an  immense 
heap  of  grain,  in  the  straw,  is  trussed  together,  in  the 
form  of  a  parallelogram,  and  laid  on  one  of  its  narrow 
sides ;  a  donkey  is  made  to  stand  close  against  it ;  and 
two  of  the  fellahin,  standing  on  the  opposite  side,  place 
each  a  foot  against  the  animal,  and  haul  over  on  the 
bundle  by  a  rope.  When  it  is  half  over,  they  secure  it ; 
and  there  is  nothing  of  the  donkey  to  be  seen  but  its 
little  feet,  far  beneath  the  cumbrous  load,  in  bulk  six 
times  larger  than  himself.  The  small,  square  houses  of 
the  village,  like  those  of  all  we  have  seen,  Aba  Ghush’s 
excepted,  are  of  uncut  stones,  cemented  and  plastered 
with  mud,  and  with  flat,  mud  roofs.  The  mud  floors 
are  usually  several  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  ground ; 
and  the  only  aperture  in  the  walls  is  the  low  and  narrow 
37* 


438 


RAMLEH. 


doorway.  Through  the  last,  a  stream  of  smoke  is  ever 
issuing,  tainted  with  the  foetid  odour  of  the  fuel,  the  sun- 
dried  excrement  of  the  camel ;  which  is  so  offensive  that 
the  deaf  and  the  blind  would  detect,  with  their  nostrils, 
the  impregnated  atmosphere  of  a  village.  The  habits  of 
the  people  are  as  filthy  as  their  dwellings  are  uncom¬ 
fortable  ;  and  it  is  not  surprising  that,  with  all  their  sim¬ 
plicity  of  life,  there  are  so  few  instances  of .  longevity . 

The  town  of  Ramleh,  seated  in  the  plain,  with  its 
tower,  its  minarets,  its  ruins,  and  its  palm-trees,  looked 
more  like  an  oriental  city,  than  any  we  had  seen  in 
Palestine.  In  this  plain,  according  to  tradition,  the  Vir¬ 
gin,  the  infant  Saviour,  and  St.  Joseph,  passed  a  night,  in 
their  flight  to  Egypt. 

Arriving  at  Ramleh,  we  experienced  great  difficulty  in 
getting  round  it,  owing  to  the  number  of  high  and  im¬ 
penetrable  cactus-hedges.  At  length  our  vice-consul  came 
out  in  state,  and  guided  us  round  to  the  north  side,  where 
we  struck  into  the  Jaffa  road.  This  is  the  only  place  in 
the  interior  of  Palestine  where  the  American  flag  is  per¬ 
mitted  to  fly.  There  were  fine  olive-groves,  and  many 
cypresses,  around  the  town ;  and  beyond,  a  lovely  plain, 
bounded  by  a  range  of  mountains  on  one  hand,  and  the 
Mediterranean  on  the  other. 

Ramleh  is  supposed  to  have  been  the  Rama-Ephraim 
of  the  Old  Testament,  where  Samuel  judged  the  people, 
and  where  the  elders  assembled  to  demand  a  king.  It 
has  now  a  large  convent,  rebuilt,  it  is  said,  by  Philip  the 
Good,  Duke  of  Burgundy. 

Passing  along  the  plain  of  Beth  Dagon,  we  camped,  for 
Sunday,  a  little  off  the  road,  on  a  slope  in  the  edge  of  an 
orchard  of  old  olive-trees,  near  the  village,  and  a  few 
miles  distant  from  Lyd,  the  Lydda  of  the  New  Testament, 
and  the  Diospolis  of  the  Romans,  where  St.  Peter  miracu¬ 
lously  cured  the  man  afflicted  with  the  palsy. 


.  SUCCESS  OF  OUR  LEVELLING.  439 

The  uncultivated  parts  of  the  plain  were  beautified  by 
the  violet  purple  flowers  of  the  plumbago,  which  grows 
more  luxuriantly  here  than  in  southern  Europe,  the  heads 
of  the  flowers  being  much  longer,  and  the  colours  more 
vivid. 

Monday,  May  29.  Pleasant  weather;  —  commenced 
operations  early.  At  the  village  of  Yazur,  turned  to  the 
left  and  followed  the  Frank  road,  the  one  on  which  Napo¬ 
leon  marched  to  and  from  Gaza.  There  were  a  number  of 
people  in  the  fields,  but  not  many  travellers  on  the  road. 
Some  wandering  dervishes,  bearing  banners,  and  a  few 
returning  Christian  pilgrims,  passed  us  in  the  course  of 
the  morning.  About  three  miles  from  the  town,  was  a  very 
handsome  fountain,  with  a  mosque  beside  it.  Pursuing 
thence  nearly  a  due-west  course,  we  came  out  on  the  sand¬ 
hills,  and  planted  the  level  on  the  margin  of  the  Mediter¬ 
ranean,  about  one  and  a  half  miles  south  of  Jaffa.  The 
task  was  at  length  accomplished.  We  had  carried  a  line 
of  levels,  with  the  spirit-level,  from  the  chasm  of  the 
Dead  Sea,  through  the  Desert  of  Judea,  over  precipices 
and  mountain-ridges,  and  down  and  across  yawning  ra¬ 
vines,  and  for  much  of  the  time  beneath  a  scorching  sun. 
It  had  been  considered  by  many  as  impracticable.  It  has, 
however,  been  accomplished;  and  with  as  much  accuracy 
as,  I  believe,  it  can  be  done.  The  instrument  was  a 
capital  one  of  Troughton’s,  imported  by  Blunt.  It  was 
of  the  most  recent  construction,  with  staves  to  be  read 
off  by  the  observer.  The  adjustments  of  the  instruments 
were  frequently  examined,  and  we  were  careful  to  make 
the  observations  as  nearly  mid-way  as  possible.  The 
whole  credit  of  this  is  due  to  Lieutenant  Dale,  to  whom, 
in  full  confidence  of  his  zeal  and  capacity,  I  assigned  the 
task  of  levelling.  The  result  is  confirmatory  of  the  skill 
and  extraordinary  accuracy  of  the  triangulation  of  Lieu¬ 
tenant  Symonds,  R.  N. 


440 


JAFFA. 


We  found  the  difference  of  level,  in  other  words,  the 
depression  of  the  surface  of  the  Dead  Sea,  below  that  of 
the  Mediterranean,  to  be  a  little  over  1300  feet.  The 
height  of  Jerusalem  above  the  former  sea,  is  very  nearly 
three  times  that  of  this  difference  of  level,  while,  at  the 
same  time,  it  is  almost  the  exact  multiple  of  the  depth 
of  that  sea,  of  the  height  of  its  banks,  and  of  the  depres¬ 
sion  of  its  surface. 

In  the  hollow  of  the  hills  near  Jaffa,  is  a  circular  plain, 
where  Ibrahim  Pasha  contemplated  making  a  harbour,  to 
be  connected  with  the  Mediterranean  by  a  canal.  At  the 
request  of  our  Vice-Consul,  who  had  come  to  meet  us 
early  in  the  day,  we  examined  it  carefully,  and  felt  satis¬ 
fied  that  the  work  could  be  done  at  little  cost,  compared  to 
the  immense  benefit  that  would  be  derived  from  it.  The 
duties  of  the  customs,  12  per  cent.,  amount  to  10,000 
pounds  sterling  per  annum ;  and  twice  that  sum,  or  two 
years’  duties  appropriated  to  the  purpose,  would  accom¬ 
plish  it.  Vessels  not  exceeding  160  tons  can  anchor  near 
the  town  in  summer ;  but  in  winter,  they  must  keep  in 
the  offing. 

Our  work  accomplished,  we  repaired  to  the  country- 
house  of  Mr.  Murad,  our  worthy  consular  representative, 
who  had  kindly  placed  it  at  our  disposal. 

The  town  of  Jaffa  is  situated  on  a  hill-side;  the  de¬ 
clivity  towards  the  sea,  and  sweeping  round  it,  inland, 
from  north  to  south,  is  a  plain  of  luxuriant  vegetation, 
consisting  of  gardens  and  orange  and  mulberry  groves, 
separated  by  hedges  of  cactus,  fifteen  feet  high,  then  in  full 
blossom,  bearing  a  beautiful  straw-coloured,  cup-shaped, 
wax-looking  flower.  The  roads,  numerous  but  narrow, 
and  shaded  by  the  magnificent  sycamore  fig,  wind  be¬ 
tween  these  hedges,  the  tenderest  leaves  of  which  are 
cropped  by  the  passing  camels,  though,  from  being  fretted 
with  thorns,  they  are  avoided  by  every  other  animal. 


AN  IRRIGATED  GARDEN.  441 

The  garden  in  which  we  were  quartered,  was  a  delight¬ 
ful  spot  to  recruit  in,  after  our  fatigue.  A  great  many 
swallows  were  flying  in  and  out,  and  twittering  over  our 
heads,  in  the  open  alcove  we  selected  for  our  bed-chamber. 
We  had  been  so  long  accustomed  to  camping  in  the  open 
air,  that  we  could  not  reconcile  ourselves  to  sleeping  in  a 
room ;  moreover,  we  felt  more  secure  from  insects,  away 
from  apartments  that  had  recently  been  inhabited. 

We  never  wrearied  of  the  luxuriant  and  refreshing  green 
of  the  gardens  around  and  before  us.  The  one  we  occupied, 
although  not  the  largest  in  the  vicinity,  had  in  it  2500 
orange  and  1500  lemon,  besides  a  number  of  apricot,  and 
some  apple  and  pomegranate  trees.  The  first  were  nearly 
all  laden  with  fruit,  then  near  maturity,  but  some  were 
in  blossom,  as  were  also  all  the  pomegranate  trees,  and 
the  beautiful  white  and  crimson  flowers  were  richly  inter¬ 
mingled;  while  those  of  the  orange,  the  bridal  flower, 
fairly  burthened  the  air  with  their  fragrance.  Attached 
to  the  garden  is  a  well,  a  Persian  wheel,  and  a  reservoir. 
The  wheel  is  worked  day  and  night  by  mules ;  the  water 
is  collected  in  the  reservoir,  and  thence  conducted  by 
small  canals  through  the  garden.  There  are  two  canals, 
built  of  cemented  stone,  with  apertures  in  them  at  regular 
distances.  They  were  this  evening  occupied  two  hours 
in  irrigating  one  half  of  the  garden,  which  is  done  on 
alternate  days.  A  trench  is  dug  in  the  loose  soil  from 
one  of  the  canals  to  a  tree,  and  the  earth  is  raked  aside 
from  the  roots  and  the  stem,  leaving  a  circular  basin,  ac¬ 
cording  to  the  size  of  the  tree ;  the  water  is  let  in,  the 
basin  filled,  and  in  the  mean  time  another  trench  and 
basin  are  prepared;  the  first  is  blocked  up,  the  water 
diverted  to  the  second,  and  in  this  manner  every  tree  is 
irrigated  once  in  two  days.  There  is  great  loss  of  water 
by  the  process,  and  we  endeavoured  to  persuade  our  con¬ 
sul  to  erect  a  windmill,  which,  requiring  no  food  and 


442 


THE  TOMB  OF  TABITHA. 


much  less  attendance  than  mules,  would,  in  this  region 
of  periodical  winds,  be  far  more  economical  than  the  pre¬ 
sent  mode.  But  Jaffa  is  an  antediluvian  place,  and  I 
suppose  that  the  Persian  water-wheel,  like  the  other  cus¬ 
toms  of  their  ancestors,  will  be  adhered  to  by  this  people. 
In  the  vineyard  attached  to  the  garden,  within  pistol-shot 
of  the  alcove  we  occupied,  is  the  reputed  tomb  of  Tabitha, 
who  was  restored  by  St.  Peter.  It  is  a  cave  excavated 
in  a  scaly,  friable  limestone,  and  is  about  twelve  feet 
deep,  with  a  flight  of  steps  leading  down  to  it.  The  floor 
is  level.  The  interior  is  about  eighteen  feet  long,  and  it 
has  nine  crypts,  three  fronting  the  entrance,  and  three 
on  each  side,  each  one  measuring  eight  feet  in  length, 
two  feet  in  width,  and  three  feet  in  height;  the  side 
crypts  about  eight  feet  apart. 

We  remained  in  the  quarters  so  hospitably  assigned 
to  us  until  the  6  th  of  June ;  and  found  full  occupa¬ 
tion  in  bringing  up  our  work,  particularly  the  astrono¬ 
mical  and  barometrical  observations,  and  the  measure¬ 
ments  of  the  level,  and  rebuilding  our  boats  by  putting 
their  sections  together.  The  physical  repose  was  truly 
grateful. 

On  the  main  road  between  this  and  the  town  there  is 
an  arabesque  fountain,  with  a  reservoir.  Besides  the  fruit 
and  mulberry  trees,  and  wheat,  barley,  sesame,  dhoura,  and 
lentils,*  we  noticed  within  the  gardens,  squashes,  cucum¬ 
bers,  melons,  peas,  artichokes,  egg-plants,  okra,  and  some 
Irish  potatoes,  the  last  recently  introduced.  A  little  off 
the  road,  there  was  a  very  large  tamarind  and  some  date 
trees.  In  the  near  vicinity  of  the  town  there  were  wary 
beggars,  seated  beneath  trees  by  the  road-side,  reciting 
passages  from  the  Koran  to  excite  the  sympathy  of  tra¬ 
vellers.  We  came  out  from  the  labyrinthine  road  upon 

*  Of  this  pea,  was  made  the  red  pottage  for  which  Esau  sold  his  birth¬ 
right. 


EXILED  EGYPTIANS. 


443 


a  sandy  knoll,  just  without  the  town,  and  had  the  waves 
of  the  Mediterranean  at  our  feet,  the  brawling  sound  of 
which  we  had  heard  before  we  saw  them.  Apart  from 
the  associations  of  the  sight,  we  were  exhilarated  by  the 
breeze  which  its  sister  element  rendered  so  cool  and 
refreshing.  We  had  thence  a  glorious  view  of  the  sea 
before,  and  the  plain  and  the  cloud-capped  mountains 
behind  us. 

To  the  north  of  the  town,  a  short  distance  from  the 
gate,  for  J affa  has  but  one,  and  immediately  upon  the  sea 
shore,  is  a  village  inhabited  by  Copts.  These  people  fol¬ 
lowed  Ibrahim  Pasha  from  Egypt,  but  since  the  restora¬ 
tion  of  the  country  to  Ottoman  sway  they  have  been 
driven  from  the  town,  and  live  in  their  poor  mud  village 
with  the  sea  before  and  a  graveyard  behind  them.  Possess¬ 
ing  no  means  of  transportation  over  the  first,  along  which 
they  must  often  wistfully  gaze  towards  their  native  coun¬ 
try,  the  last  remains  as  their  only  refuge  from  hunger, 
oppression,  and  unrewarded  toil.  Their  complexions  are 
dark,  but  the  dress  of  the  men  differs  in  no  respect  from 
that  of  Arabs  of  the  lowest  class.  The  women  wear  a 
triangular  piece  of  thin  dark  cloth  suspended  from  the 
forehead,  sometimes  fringed  with  coins,  and  concealing 
the  nose,  mouth,  and  chin. 

In  another  graveyard  to  the  left  was  an  Egyptian 
woman  at  her  devotions.  Eastern  women  are  rarely  seen 
to  pray  by  travellers.  Like  the  majority  of  their  sex  all 
over  the  world,  they  seem  to  shrink  from  public  exhibi¬ 
tion.  Once  before,  in  a  Turkish  burial-ground  just  with¬ 
out  St.  Stephen’s  gate,  J erusalem,  I  saw  some  black  slaves 
making  their  prostrations  before  a  tomb,  but  could  not 
tell  whether  they  were  worshipping  God,  or  paying  hom¬ 
age  to  the  shade  of  their  master.  The  real  belief  of' 
Muhammedans  with  regard  to  the  future  prospects  of 
women,  I  have  never  been  able  to  ascertain.  The  vulgar 


444  THROWING  THE  DJERID. 

idea  that  they  are  denied  the  possession  of  souls  by  the 
Koran,  is,  however,  an  incorrect  one.  Muhammed  named 
four  as  worthy  of  Paradise.  But  it  is  impossible,  for  a 
Christian  at  least,  to  obtain  satisfactory  information  from 
a  native  on  this  subject.  They  never  speak  of  their 
women  to  strangers,  and  consider  any  allusion  to  them  as 
insulting.  ’Awad,  our  guide,  was  the  only  one  who  would 
answer  our  questions  in  this  matter,  and  he  did  it  with 
perceptible  reluctance.  Indeed,  all  the  Arabs  with  whom 
we  have  been  associated,  and  they  were  many  and  of 
various  tribes,  were  very  reserved  about  their  domestic 
affairs,  and  more  evasive  even  than  our  eastern  brethren 
in  their  replies  to  questions  of  a  personal  nature.  I  have 
never  known  them  to  give  a  direct  answer  to  a  question 
pertaining  to  their  families  or  themselves.  When  asked 
how  he  is,  an  Arab  replies,  6C  Thanks  be  to  God  !”  When 
the  question  is  repeated,  he  says,  “  God  is  great !”  and  if 
asked  the  third  time,  his  reply  is,  “  God  is  bountiful !” 

On  the  sands  of  the  sea,  a  little  beyond  the  Coptic  vil¬ 
lage,  the  Pasha  of  J erusalem,  with  a  number  of  his  officers 
and  attendants,  were  jousting  and  throwing  the  djerid. 
They  were  mounted  on  spirited  horses,  drawn  up  in  two 
lines,  facing  each  other,  about  150  yards  apart.  A  single 
horseman  would  leave  his  ranks,  cross  the  intervening 
space,  and  ride  leisurely  along  in  front  of  the  opposite 
line,  when,  selecting  his  opponent,  he  quickly  threw  his 
djerid,  or  short,  blunted,  wooden  spear,  directly  at  him. 
The  latter,  generally  dodging  the  weapon,  immediately 
started  in  hot  pursuit  of  his  antagonist,  who,  now  un¬ 
armed,  spurred  his  horse  towards  his  friends,  and,  to 
avoid  the  threatened  blow,  threw  himself  nearly  from  the 
steed,  hanging  by  one  leg,  exactly  in  the  manner  of  our 
Blackfoot  Indians,  and  the  inhabitants  of  the  Pampas  of 
South  America.  If  the  assailed  were  struck  with  the 
first  cast,  one  of  his  party  pursued  the  assailant  ;  and  if 


F  U  N  E  E  A  L  CEREMONIES. 


445 


successful  in  striking  him,  it  became  his  turn  to  flee  from 
an  adversary.  It  is  a  manly  and  a  beautiful  game,  and 
excited  us  as  we  looked  upon  it.  How  much  more  so 
must  it  have  been  to  those  who  were  engaged  in  it !  The 
noble  black  charger  of  the  Pasha  seemed  to  devour  the 
wind,  and  not  one  escaped  the  unerring  aim  of  his  rider. 
There  was  no  sycophancy,  however ;  for,  less  successful 
in  retreat  than  pursuit,  the  Pasha  was  repeatedly  struck 
before  he  regained  his  place. 

Immediately  in  front  of  the  gate  were  a  number  of 
fruit-sellers,  some  bazaars,  and  a  new  khan  under  con¬ 
struction,  with  a  throng  of  people  moving  rapidly  to  and 
fro,  indicating  more  activity  of  trade  than  we  had  seen 
since  leaving  Beirut.  Just  before  entering,  we  stopped  to 
let  a  funeral  procession  pass.  It  was  quite  a  long  one, 
and  consisted  wholly  of  females.  They  were  wailing  in 
the  same  monotonous  tone  as  those  we  saw  in  a  similar 
procession  at  Jerusalem.  It  is. the  custom  for  the  rela¬ 
tives  and  friends,  for  three  consecutive  days,  to  repair  in 
procession  to,  and  weep  over,  the  grave  of  the  deceased. 

Just  within  the  gate,  on  the  right,  is  a  very  handsome 
fountain,  with  elaborate  carved-work  about  it.  Passing 
through  lines  of  bazaars,  and  by  a  mosque  with  a  large 
court,  and  handsome  fountain  on  the  right,  and  thence 
threading  narrow,  unpaved  streets,  cumbered  with  rub¬ 
bish,  which  seemed  to  have  no  precise  direction,  and  to 
lead  to  no  particular  place,  and  twice  descending  steps 
where  Putnam  might  have  hesitated,  with  a  foe  behind 
him,  but  down  which  our  horses  walked  as  carefully  as 
we  could  have  done  ourselves,  we  at  length  reached  the 
residence  of  our  consul,  immediately  overlooking  the 
harbour.  There  were  some  thirty  or  forty  small  polacre 
vessels  in  the  port,  which  is  protected  by  a  reef  of  rocks 
to  the  westward.  This  reef  is  generally  supposed  to  be 
the  remains  of  a  breakwater,  built  by  the  Emperor 
38 


446 


NOTICES  OF  JAFFA. 


Adrian ;  but  to  me  the  reef  presented  a  natural  aspect. 
I  could  detect  no  vestiges  of  an  ancient  mole,  and  have 
not  been  able  to  find  any  historical  account  of  an  artificial 
harbour  being  formed  here.  On  the  contrary,  Josephus 
speaks  of  the  dangers  of  the  anchorage,  caused  by  a 
number  of  rocks  off  the  town. 

Our  worthy  consular  representative  is  a  Syrian  by  birth 
and  an  Armenian  in  faith.  He  was  dressed  in  the 
oriental  style,  and  received  us  hospitably  and  kindly. 
For  upwards  of  twenty  years  he  has  been  in  the  service 
of  our  government ;  in  the  first  place  as  an  assistant,  and 
subsequently  as  the  successor  of  his  father. 

Jaffa  is,  perhaps,  the  oldest  city  in  the  world;  and 
Pliny  calls  it  an  antediluvian  one.  Here,  in  mythology, 
Andromache  was  chained  to  a  rock,  and  exposed  to  the 
embraces  of  a  sea-monster. 

History  fixes  upon  this  as  the  landing-place  of  the  cru¬ 
saders,  subsequently  fortified  by  St.  Louis ;  within  its 
Armenian  convent  Napoleon  touched  the  sick  infected 
with  the  plague,  and  without  its  walls  massacred  his  pri¬ 
soners  in  cold  blood;  and  here  Ibrahim  Pasha  sought 
refuge  from  the  Arab  tribes,  whom  he  had  driven  to  des¬ 
peration.  According  to  tradition,  here  Noah  built  the 
ark,  and  from  its  port  Jonas  embarked;  on  these  shores 
were  landed  the  cedars  of  Lebanon,  brought  for  the  build¬ 
ing  of  the  temple ;  and  in  it  was  the  house  of  Simon  the 
tanner,  with  whom  the  first  of  the  apostles  dwelt.  We 
visited  the  site  of  the  last,  which  is  upon  the  sea-side, 
exactly  accordant  with  the  description.  There  is  a  sar¬ 
cophagus  in  the  yard,  used  as  a  reservoir  to  the  fountain. 
It  is  said  to  have  belonged  to  the  family  of  Simon. 
Quien  sabe  ?  Who  knows  ?  Who  can  believe  ?  and  who 
can  contradict  it?  The  population  of  Jaffa  is  now  about 
13,000,  viz:  Turks,  8000;  Greeks,  2000;  Armenians, 
2000;  Maronites,  700;  and  Jews,  about  300. 


AN  ARMENIAN  LADY. 


447 


The  consul’s  dinner  was  an  extremely  plentiful  one, 
consisting  of  a  great  variety  of  dishes,  many  of  them 
unknown  to  us,  prepared  in  the  Eastern  style.  His  wife, 
in  compliment  to  us,  for  the  first  time  in  her  life,  sat 
down  to  a  table  with  strangers.  She  had  a  sweet  counte¬ 
nance,  and  her  profile  was  a  beautiful  one.  She  was 
timid,  yet  dignified  in  her  manners ;  the  wave  of  her 
hand  was  particularly  graceful,  and  her  voice,  soft  and 
gentle,  —  “  an  excellent  thing  in  woman.”  She  was 
dressed  richly,  according  to  the  fashion  of  her  country. 
Her  head  was  ornamented  with  diamonds,  in  clusters  of 
leaves  and  flowers ;  and  on  her  finger  was  a  magnificent 
ruby,  encircled  with  brilliants.  When  she  turned  to 
address  those  who  were  waiting  behind  her,  we  were  par¬ 
ticularly  struck  with  the  exquisite  contour  and  flexure 
of  her  head  and  throat.  A  master-artist  would  have 
painted  her  so,  and  called  her  the  heroine  of  some  historic 
scene.  From  time  to  time,  she  helped  us  to  morsels  from 
her  own  plate ;  a  marked  compliment,  founded  on  a  cus¬ 
tom  which,  under  other  circumstances,  we  should  have 
thought  “more  honoured  in  the  breach  than  the  ob¬ 
servance  but  her  manner  was  so  gentle  and  so  winning, 
and  her  smile  so  irresistible,  that,  had  it  been  physic 
instead  of  palatable  food,  we  should  have  swallowed  it 
without  hesitation.  For  the  first  time  within  many 
months,  we  felt  the  soothing  and  refining  influence  of  the 
society  of  the  other  sex. 

Members  of  the  family  acted  as  waiters,  it  being  the 
custom  when  it  is  intended  to  pay  the  highest  honour  to 
a  guest.  Conscious  of  not  deserving  it  in  that  sense,  we 
received  it  as  a  tribute  to  the  exalted  character  of  our 
country,  and  as  an  evidence  of  the  patriotism  of  our 
worthy  host ;  —  and  a  more  patriotic,  unassuming,  and 
truly  hospitable  representative  of  that  country  I  have 
never  seen.  He  stowed  our  boats  in  his  warehouse,  and 


448 


A  BRIDAL  PROCESSION. 


placed  his  country-house  at  our  disposal.  His  residence 
in  town  was  our  familiar  resort,  and  we  ever  found  a 
heartfelt  welcome  at  his  table.  He  spared  no  trouble ; 
hesitated  at  no  expense ;  and,  at  the  settlement  of  the 
accounts,  refused  all  compensation  whatever.  Mr.  Ste¬ 
phens  says  that  he  is  the  only  man  he  has  ever  known  to 
declare  himself  happy.  I  can  safely  add  that  he  is  the 
only  one  whom  I  thought  truly  so.  Many  there  are  who 
ought  to  be,  but  I  have  never  before  met  with  one  who 
rightly  appreciated  the  blessings  he  enjoyed. 

While  at  dinner,  we  heard  sung  in  the  street  the  same 
song  of  the  wild  Ta  amirah,  to  which  we  had  so  often 
listened  on  the  shores  of  the  Dead  Sea.  Heretofore  inva¬ 
riably  discordant,  it  now  sounded  almost  melodious. 

In  the  afternoon  there  was  a  marriage-procession ;  the 
bride  being  escorted  to  her  future  home  by  her  husband 
and  his  friends.  First  came  the  groom,  with  a  number 
of  his  male  friends,  walking  two  abreast ;  then  a  gorgeous 
silken  canopy,  beneath  which  walked  the  bride,  her  person 
entirely  screened.  On  each  side  was  a  man  with  a  drawn 
sword  in  his  hand,  suggesting  to  the  mind  thoughts  about 
a  lamb  led  to  the  sacrifice,  or  of  a  criminal  conducted  to 
execution.  Behind  the  canopy,  in  the  same  order  as  the 
men  who  preceded  it,  were  a  number  of  females  of  various 
ages.  There  were  also  many  attendants  with  musical 
instruments.  The  monotonous,  twanging  sound  of  the 
last,  mingled  with  the  shouts  of  the  men ;  the  whining 
tones  and  occasional  screams  of  the  women ;  and  the 
flourishes  of  the  swords  by  those  who  bore  them,  pre¬ 
sented  a  singular  spectacle ;  a  most  extraordinary  vocal 
and  instrumental  concert,  with  a  yet  stranger  accom¬ 
paniment. 

We  learned  from  our  Consul,  that  the  Turks  treat  their 
wives  very  badly.  In  consequence  of  the  power  vested 
in  the  husband  to  divorce  at  will,  there  is  no  community 


449 


* 


TREATMENT  OF  WOMEN. 

of  interest  between  man  and  wife.  The  latter,  not  know¬ 
ing  at  what  moment  the  dreadful  word  may  be  pro¬ 
nounced,  is  ever  laying  by  something  for  such  a  contin¬ 
gency,  of  which  her  mother  is  usually  the  depository. 
Hence,  the  husband,  in  self-defence,  rarely  provides  gro¬ 
ceries  or  food  in  any  quantity,  of  which  the  wife  would 
certainly  sell  a  portion,  and  retain  the  proceeds.  In  the 
vicinity  of  towns,  therefore,  and  we  have  frequently 
observed  it,  Turks  may  be  seen  returning  home  with  a 
little  oil,  and  a  small  quantity  of  provisions,  for  the  day’s 
consumption. 

It  is  true,  that  if  the  wife  be  divorced  for  any  other 
cause  than  infidelity,  she  can  claim  her  dower,  —  that  is, 
the  sum  paid  for  her  by  her  husband,  if  it  had  been 
returned  to  him,  which  is  rarely  the  case.  But  her 
youth,  and  with  it,  all  her  attractions,  had  probably 
passed  away ;  and,  what  is  the  most  severe  part  of  the 
infliction,  the  children,  in  such  an  event,  remain  subject 
to  the  father’s  control.  The  wife  can  also  obtain  divorce ; 
and  in  Constantinople  there  is  a  singular  female  court  to 
which  she  may  appeal,  but  its  jurisdiction,  like  the  edict 
with  regard  to  slavery,  is  nominal,  and  the  rights  of 
woman  and  the  slave  are  alike  disregarded. 

All  over  the  world,  civilized  and  savage,  women  are 
treated  as  inferior  beings.  In  what  is  esteemed  refined 
society,  we  hold  them  in  mental  thraldom,  while  we 
exempt  them  from  bodily  labour ;  and,  paying  a  sensual 
worship  to  their  persons,  treat  them  as  pretty  playthings. 

The  law  of  inheritance,  in  the  Turkish  dominions, 
recognises  no  right  whatever  in  the  female.  On  the 
death  of  the  father,  if  there  be  one  son  and  one  or  more 
daughters,  the  son  inherits  all  the  property.  If  two  or 
more  sons,  it  is  portioned  equally  among  them;  but,  in 
either  case,  the  daughters  have  no  share. 

As  illustrative  of  the  seclusion  of  the  female  in  Syria, 

38  *  2d 


450 


A  SYRIAN  LADY. 


the  Christian  as  well  as  the  Muslim,  a  circumstance  was 
related  to  us  by  our  Consul’s  brother,  which,  from  a  less 
authentic  source,  we  should  have  deemed  incredible.  A 
widower,  on  marrying  a  second  time,  enjoined  it  upon  his 
son,  then  about  half-grown,  never  to  enter  the  apartment 
occupied  by  his  step-mother  without  knocking,  in  order 
that  she  might  have  time  to  conceal  her  face.  This  form 
was  scrupulously  observed  by  the  son,  who,  after  the 
lapse  of  some  years,  also  married.  In  turn,  he  requested 
his  father  to  adopt  the  same  rule  which  had  been  applied 
to  him ;  and  we  were  assured  that  they  lived  and  died  in 
the  same  house,  without  seeing  the  faces  of  each  other’s 
wives.  I  give  this  for  what  it  is  worth. 

On  the  5th  of  June  we  dined  with  Dr.  Kayat,  H.  B.  M. 
Consul.  The  dishes  were  excellent  and  most  abundant ; 
—  among  them  a  lamb,  roasted  whole  —  and  the  attend¬ 
ance  was  a  miracle  for  Syrian  servants.  The  dress  of  the 
hostess,  a  perfect  lady  in  her  manners  and  appearance, 
was  a  singular  dovetailing  of  the  oriental  with  the  Euro¬ 
pean  costume.  Her  hair,  flowing  beneath  her  head-dress 
of  cerulean  silk,  ornamented  with  crimson  and  surmounted 
by  a  gold-embroidered  crown,  was  internetted  with  minute 
spiculae  of  gold  about  the  size  of  a  spangle,  and  fell  like 
the  fabulous  tiara  of  a  mermaid  upon  her  shoulders.  Her 
neck,  at  least  so  much  of  it  as  could  be  seen,  for  the  lady 
was  not  slightly  moulded,  was  encircled  with  a  string  of 
golden  ornaments  in  the  forms  of  claws  of  animals,  alto¬ 
gether  reminding  one  of  the  necklace  of  a  Tuscarora  belle. 
Her  fingers  sparkled  with  rings  of  emerald,  ruby  and  dia¬ 
mond,  and  an  amethystine  silk  dress,  made  in  the  Euro¬ 
pean  style,  with  neat  slippers  upon  the  feet,  completed 
her  costume.  She  presided  with  quiet  dignity  and  becom¬ 
ing  grace,  and  the  conversation  of  the  husband  gave  an 
additional  zest  to  the  repast  he  had  hospitably  prepared 
for  us. 


A  RESUSCITATION. 


451 


Dr.  K.  has  just  claims  to  be  considered  a  benefactor  to 
this  section  of  country.  He  has  encouraged  the  culture 
of  the  vine ;  has  introduced  that  of  the  mulberry  and  of 
the  Irish  potatoe ;  and  by  word  and  example  is  endea¬ 
vouring  to  prevail  on  the  people  in  the  adjacent  plain  to 
cultivate  the  sweet  potatoe,  which  in  this  warm  climate 
and  light  friable  soil  will  doubtless  succeed  admirably. 
This  section,  like  all  Syria,  has  few  nutritious  and  succu¬ 
lent  vegetables.  The  introduction  of  the  potatoe  would 
be  a  blessing,  if  only  to  supersede  the  washy  and  un¬ 
wholesome  cucumber,  which  is  now  the  vegetable  of  the 
country.  In  the  court-yard  we  observed  an  English 
plough  of  an  improved  construction,  imported  by  the  con¬ 
sul.  This  gentleman  related  two  anecdotes,  one  illustra¬ 
tive  of  the  superstition  of  the  lower  order,  the  other,  of 
the  increasing  liberality  of  spirit  among  the  Muslim 
clergy. 

Last  winter  a  boat  was  upset  in  the  harbour,  and  the  in¬ 
sensible  body  of  one  of  the  crew  was  thrown  by  the  waves 
upon  the  beach.  Dr.  K.  had  it  immediately  carried  to  his 
house,  where  he  took  instant  measures  for  its  resuscita¬ 
tion.  In  the  mean  time,  a  report  was  spread  abroad  that 
a  Giaour  was  making  incantations  over  the  body  of  one 
of  the  faithful.  A  crowd  was  very  soon  collected  before 
the  house,  and  became  clamorous  for  the  body  that  they 
might  inter  it ;  for,  as  I  have  before  stated,  it  is  an  article 
of  Muslim  belief  that  the  soul  of  a  person,  not  slain  in 
battle,  cannot  enter  the  gardens  of  Paradise  until  the 
body  is  interred.  Dr.  K.,  from  his  official  position,  suc¬ 
ceeded  in  keeping  the  doors  closed,  until,  after  several 
hours’  persevering  efforts,  he  succeeded,  and  indignation 
gave  way  to  astonishment  among  the  people,  who  declared 
that  he  had  restored  the  dead  to  life. 

A  short  time  after  the  above  occurrence,  two  Mullahs 
called  upon  him,  and  seeing  an  Arabic  translation  of  the 


452 


A  CHANGED  FRIEND. 


Bible  upon  his  table,  expressed  a  desire  to  read  it,  where¬ 
upon  he  presented  each  of  them  with  a  copy.  The 
Imaum  (head  of  the  hierarchy  in  Jaffa)  was  present,  but 
said  nothing.  A  few  days  after,  however,  he  came  alone, 
and  asked  why  a  copy  had  not  been  given  to  him.  Of 
course,  he  was  presented  with  one. 

Our  host  also  told  us  of  a  ruin,  supposed  to  be  ante¬ 
diluvian,  and  we  went  to  see  it.  It  is  covered  by  a  Sara¬ 
cenic  arch,  some  thirty  or  forty  feet  from  the  sea.  We 
could  not  tell  whether  it  had  been  a  pier  or  an  abutment 
of  a  bridge,  but  the  fragmentary  ruin  bore  evident  traces 
of  the  action  of  water,  and  we  found  some  small,  dead  sea- 
shells  in  its  crevices.  It  was  deliciously  cool  as  we 
returned  after  nightfall,  by  the  faint  light  of  the  young 
moon,  with  the  old  moon  in  her  arms.  Every  evening, 
after  sunset,  the  zodaical  lights  were  beautiful.  Can 
they,  as  has  been  suggested,  be  the  unabsorbed  rays  of 
the  sun  ? 

Monday,  June  5.  Another  night  has  passed,  which 
would  have  been  delightful,  were  it  not  for  the  harass¬ 
ing  and  incessant  annoyance  of  fleas.  The  boats  being 
complete,  I  now  chartered  a  small  Arab  brig  to  con¬ 
vey  them,  our  stores,  and  a  majority  of  the  party,  to  St. 
Jean  d’Acre.  A  short  distance  within  the  gate,  we  recog¬ 
nized  and  joyfully  accosted  Sherif  Musaid,  one  of  our 
Bedawin  allies.  To  our  mortification  his  return  greeting 
was  anything  but  a  cordial  one,  and  we  parted  from  him 
abruptly,  our  bosoms  chilled  with  such  an  unexpected 
proof  of  the  instability  of  human  friendship.  We  had  all 
become  much  attached  to  him  during  our  association,  and 
from  his  deportment  towards  us  had  believed  the  feeling 
to  be  reciprocal.  Many,  therefore,  were  the  fruitless  sur¬ 
mises  as  to  the  cause  of  his  change  of  manner. 

After  embarking  the  boats,  and  making  all  necessary 
arrangements  for  to-morrow’s  start,  among  them,  pro- 


TREATMENT  OF  SLAVES.  453 

curing  quantities  of  every  variety  of  seed,  we  returned  to 
our  quarters,  to  spend  the  last  night  in  the  spacious  but 
infested  villa  of  our  most  worthy  consul.  Great  was  our 
surprise,  and  unequalled  our  delight,  when,  shortly  after, 
the  younger  Sherif  came  in  and  explained  the  cause  of  his 
reserved  demeanour  in  the  morning.  A  valuable  slave 
had  absconded  from  him  at  Acre,  taking  with  him  his 
master’s  best  horse  and  a  highly  prized  rifle.  Following 
in  swift  pursuit,  Musaid  had  tracked  him  to  Jaffa,  and 
was,  incognito,  making  some  necessary  inquiries,  when 
we  suddenly  came  upon  him.  He  ascertained  that  the 
slave  had  continued  his  flight  to  Egypt,  and  purposed 
following  in  pursuit. 

In  reply  to  our  inquiries,  Sherif  humanely  said  that  if 
he  came  within  gun-shot  of  the  fugitive,  he  would  not 
shoot  him,  even  to  secure  his  horse  and  his  gun.  He 
expressed  his  regret  that  he  had  not  parted  with  the 
slave  some  time  before,  when  he  seemed  dissatisfied.  By 
an  imperial  edict  (which  is,  however,  disregarded  with 
respect  to  Nubians),  a  slave  cannot  remain  in  servitude 
more  than  seven  years;  and,  by  a  custom,  the  most  impe¬ 
rative  of  all  laws,  a  slave,  if  dissatisfied,  can  claim  to  be 
sold;  and  if  the  demand  be  thrice  ineffectually  made, 
before  witnesses,  he  becomes,  ipso  facto,  free.  Hence,  the 
treatment  of  slaves  is  mild  and  conciliatory. 

I  do  not  purpose  entering  into  a  description  of  Jaffa, 
or  to  give  the  statistical  facts  which  were  collected  there. 
The  first  has  been  repeatedly  done  before ;  the  last 
will,  with  more  propriety,  accompany  the  official  report. 
Moreover,  I  feel  that  my  notes  are  diminishing  in  inte¬ 
rest  as  we  recede  from  those  mysterious  shores,  where  we 
alone  were  almost  the  only  voyagers.  We  were  now,  and 
had,  since  our  departure  from  Jerusalem,  been  travelling 
a  route  repeatedly  and  graphically  described  by  others. 
Any  attempt,  on  my  part,  to  compete  with  some  of  them, 


454 


DEPARTURE  FOR  ACRE. 


would  be  like  one  endeavouring  to  rival  the  lightning  of 
heaven  with  the  artificial  fireworks  of  earth.  In  con¬ 
sideration,  therefore,  alike  of  the  patience  of  the  reader 
and  my  own  reputation,  I  will  henceforth  be  as  brief  as 
possible. 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

FROM  JAFFA  TO  NAZARETH. 

Tuesday,  June  6.  A  pleasant,  calm  morning,  with  a 
dense  fog  to  seaward.  Set  the  cook  to  work  at  4  A.  M. 
The  sun  rose  at  4.40. 

When  all  hands  were  called,  I  was  amused  with  the 
simplicity  of  an  Arab’s  toilet.  He  had  been  sleeping 
beneath  a  tree  in  the  court.  When  awakened,  he  sprang 
immediately  to  his  feet,  tightened  the  leathern  belt 
around  his  aba,  and  throwing  back  the  flaps  of  his  koo- 
feeyah,  he  was  attired  for  the  day.  Except  the  elder 
Slierif,  we  never  saw  the  Arabs  wash  anything  but  their 
feet,  and  they  regarded  our  use  of  the  tooth-brush  as  an 
absurdity. 

At  7  A.  M.,  the  land-party,  under  command  of  Mr.  Dale, 
started  for  St.  Jean  d’Acre.  In  the  evening,  I  embarked 
with  the  remainder  in  the  Arab  brig.  These  vessels  have 
no  names,  each  one  being  designated  only  by  that  of  the 
reis  or  captain.  According  to  the  custom  of  the  country, 
a  vessel  becomes  the  property  of  the  chartering  party 
for  the  time  being.  We  therefore  hoisted  our  colours, 
and  christened  the  brig  after  a  valued  friend  of  one  of 
us.  The  name,  beautiful  in  itself,  was  the  more  accepta- 


NIGHT  IN  THE  HARBOUR. 


455 


ble,  that,  although  rarely  met  with  now,  it  is  frequent  in 
songs  of  the  olden  time,  and  a  great  favourite  with  sailors. 

The  wind  drawing  too  much  ahead,  we  were,  near  sun¬ 
set,  compelled  to  anchor  again  within  the  outer  verge  of 
the  harbour.  While  thus  detained,  we  received  another 
proof  of  the  kindness  of  our  consul,  in  a  present  of  provi¬ 
sions  and  fruit. 

The  finest  view  of  Jaffa  is  from  the  harbour.  The 
houses  are  mostly  one  story,  with  flat  roofs,  and  being 
built  on  an  acclivity,  the  flat  roofs  of  those  on  one  street 
form  terraces  to  the  houses  on  the  one  above  it ;  hence, 
at  sunset,  when  the  inhabitants  were  assembled  on  the 
house-tops  to  enjoy  the  breeze,  they  presented  an  ani¬ 
mated  and  pleasing  appearance.  After  night-fall,  the 
scene  was  beautiful ;  the  town  rising  terrace  above  ter¬ 
race,  with  hundreds  of  living  and  moving  lights ;  in 
front,  stretched  the  sea,  with  a  line  of  foam  where  it 
broke  against  the  reef,  and  a  young,  but  bright,  un¬ 
clouded  moon  above  it. 

Sailed  again  at  8  P.  M. ;  the  wind  very  light.  When 
I  awoke,  at  2  A.  M.,  the  brig  was  gently  moving,  unre¬ 
strained  by  human  guidance.  The  sheets  were  hauled 
aft ;  the  helm  lashed  alee,  and  the  re  is  and  his  crew  were 
fast  asleep.  The  moon  had  gone  down,  and  the  stars 
shone  lustrous  through  the  humid  atmosphere. 

Behind  us,  but  a  few  miles  distant,  was  Jaffa,  dark  and 
still  as  a  city  of  the  dead.  To  the  left,  was  the  broad 
expanse  of  sea,  arched  over  by  an  unclouded  sky.  On 
the  right,  was  a  waving  line  of  coast,  defined  by  the  un¬ 
crested  waves,  as  they  lazily  tumbled  and  broke  against 
it  with  a  monotonous,  but  refreshing  sound.  Beyond, 
was  a  line  of  barren  sand-hills,  terminated  by  cliffs  in  the 
remote  distance.  To  the  careless  eye  and  unreflecting 
mind,  an  unattractive  and  a  dreary  scene !  But,  in  truth, 
how  teeming  with  association,  and  with  food  for  thought ! 


/ 


456 


THE  LAND  PARTY. 


Over  those  barren  sand-hills,  were  the  sites  of  Gilgal  and 
Antipatris ;  and  to  the  north,  that  seeming  line  of  cliffs 
was  Caesarea,  built  (or  rebuilt)  by  Herod,  and  named 
after  his  imperial  master.  Thence,  St.  Paul  departed  on 
his  way  to  Rome.  Some  centuries  later,  this  very  shore 
presented  another  and  a  less  quiet  scene,  —  when  the 
battle  raged  upon  its  sands,  and  Christian  and  Infidel 
hosts  rent  the  air  with  shouts  of  defiance.  To  the  west, 
across  the  sea,  lay  our  home,  the  resting-place  of  all  our 
earthly  ties;  and  to  the  east,  beyond  the  line  of  hills 
which  skirts  the  horizon,  were  the  consecrated  scenes  in 
the  life  of  Him,  in  whom  should  be  centred  all  our  future 
hopes. 

Early  in  the  morning,  the  sea-breeze  sprang  up,  and 
making  a  speedy  passage,  we  anchored  off  St.  Jean  d’Acre, 
about  an  hour  after  the  gates  were  closed,  and  had,  conse¬ 
quently,  to  remain  all  night  on  board. 

The  route  of  the  land  party  was  along  the  sea  shore, 
with  an  occasional  detour  to  the  right.  The  beach  was 
covered  with  a  profusion  of  shells,  of  a  yellow  colour 
near  the  sea,  but  blanched  white  a  short  distance  up, 
which,  with  a  harsh,  discordant  sound,  crushed  and  crum¬ 
bled  beneath  the  horses’  feet. 

Early  in  the  day,  they  passed  the  ruins  of  Apollonia, 
and,  a  short  distance  beyond,  the  village  El  Haram,  with 
a  mosque  and  minaret.  The  cliff  was  300  to  400  feet 
high,  sand  and  crumbling  sandstone,  and  the  walls  ran 
into  the  sea :  there  was  also  a  bastion  with  loop-holes, 
like  the  one  at  Kerak.  There  were  several  feluccas  here, 
lading  with  stone  from  the  ruins,  to  be  taken  to  Jaffa. 

After  leaving  Apollonia,  the  beach  was  a  heavy  sand, 
until,  early  in  the  afternoon,  they  came  to  a  stream,  El 
Paled,  which  cuts  through  a  rock;  when,  turning  inland, 
they  entered  upon  a  rolling  country,  and  crossing  a  hill, 
spurring  off  from  the  range,  they  followed  a  broad  valley 


RUINS  OF  CAESAREA. 


457 


or  plain,  and  camped  for  the  night  near  the  village  of 
Milkhalid.  The  village  Es  Skarki,  with  ruins,  was  on  a 
hill  to  the  right.  There  was  here  a  sycamore  fig-tree, 
under  which  reclined  three  Armenians,  officers  of  the 
customs,  respectively,  of  Jaffa,  Gaza,  and  Jerusalem. 
They  were  attired  in  shabby  European  costume.  But 
the  resemblance  extended  to  a  less  commendable  feature ; 
they  drank  freely  of  arrack,  a  vile,  spirituous  compound. 
At  sunset,  a  Muslim  was  seen  at  his  prayers  and  prostra¬ 
tions  on  the  extreme  end  of  the  castle  wall.  His  figure, 
cutting  against  the  clear  sky,  had  a  singular  effect,  and 
reminded  one  of  “  prayer  on  the  house-top.” 

At  sunset,  the  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats  were  driven  in. 
It  was  a  clear,  glorious  night,  but  with  a  heavy  dew ;  and 
it  was  necessary  to  keep  vigilant  watch,  for  the  fellahin 
between  Jaffa  and  Acre  are  noted  for  their  thievish  pro¬ 
pensities.  The  shepherd’s  pipe  was  heard  from  the  vil¬ 
lage  ;  there  were  many  watch-dogs  barking,  and  sheep 
bleating,  and  hundreds  of  goats  sneezing  throughout  the 
night ;  and  there  were  many,  many  fleas. 

Early  on  the  7th  they  started,  and  passing  a  number 
of  women,  some  cutting  wood,  and  others  carrying  it  in 
large  bundles  upon  their  heads,  they  recrossed  the  sand¬ 
hills,  with  scattering,  scrubby  bushes  on  them,  and  came 
again  upon  the  sea-shore.  The  coast  here  was  sand,  with 
outlying  flat  sandstone.  At  10  A.  M.,  they  crossed  the 
Nahr  Akhdar,  and  came  to  the  ruins  of  Caesarea. 

These  ruins  present  walls  and  bastions  with  a  deep 
ditch  around  them.  They  are  all  of  cut  sandstone,  which 
a  number  of  feluccas  were  taking  to  Jaffa  for  the  new 
khan.  In  like  manner  and  for  a  like  purpose,  stones 
have  doubtless  been  taken  to  Beirut,  Tripoli,  and  other 
places.  The  citadel  presents  a  striking  scene  of  great 
masses  of  masonry  overturned,  and  displaying  rows  of 
dark  granite  columns  beneath,  the  foundation  of  which 
39 


458 


THE  RIVER  ZERKA. 


was  laid  in  what  is  termed  cob-house  fashion.  All  the 
ruins  were  of  massive  sandstone.  There  were  Saracenic 
arches  and  three  very  lofty  pieces  of  masonry  standing — 
abutments,  perhaps,  of  a  church,  or  a  castle.  The  whole 
area  within  the  walls  is  full  of  pits,  where  hewn  stones 
have  been  dug  from  the  earth  accumulated  over  them  in 
the  lapse  of  ages.  There  was  an  Arab  shepherd  with 
several  hundred  goats  within  the  enclosure.  “  The  sea- 
coasts  shall  be  dwellings,  cottages  for  shepherds  and  folds 
for  flocks.” 

The  walls  were  in  good  preservation.  Along  the  bank 
are  the  remains  of  a  line  of  ancient  buildings,  and  near  the 
termination,  a  temple  fallen  into  the  sea,  its  dark  granite 
columns  lying  side  by  side  in  the  water.  How  beautiful 
once !  how  mournful  now !  Parallel  to  the  sea  are 
Roman  arches  of  an  aqueduct,  nearly  buried  in  the  fine 
white  sand.  This  aqueduct  evidently  conveyed  water 
from  the  Zerka  (Blue  River),  although  where  the  party 
came  upon  it,  it  ran  more  inland  among  the  sand-hills. 
The  whole  of  this  region  is  almost  an  entire  desert. 

The  river  Zerka  is  a  fine  stream,  with  the  remains  of  a 
stone  bridge  at  its  mouth,  on  the  very  shore  of  the  sea. 
There  is  a  mill  a  little  distance  up,  and  an  ancient  dam 
or  bridge  across  of  solid  masonry.  There  were  a  number 
of  camels,  horses,  and  donkeys  standing  around  with  their 
loads  of  grain.  This  mill  grinds  for  the  neighbouring 
villages,  and  is  represented  to  have  been  a  mill-seat  of 
ancient  Caesarea.  Throughout  the  day,  there  was  a  lofty 
spire  visible  in  the  distance,  which  they  took  for  a  mina¬ 
ret  or  a  light-house. 

At  2  P.  M.,  they  reached  Tantura,  a  populous  and 
thriving  town,  with  a  harbour  formed  by  three  or  four 
islands.  There  were  several  feluccas  taking  in  grain, 
from  huge  piles  of  it  on  the  beach ;  and  among  the  fella- 
hin  there  was  a  merchant  from  Beirut. 


AN  ACCIDENT. 


459 


Leaving  Tantura,  they  passed  some  wells  excavated  in 
the  rocks,  so  near  the  sea  that  the  latter,  when  moder¬ 
ately  agitated,  breaks  into  them.  Shortly  after,  they  came 
to  the  ruins  of  Dora,  situated  on  a  promontory ;  where  were 
the  remains  of  an  ancient  building,  very  much  resembling 
a  light-house  —  the  one  they  had  seen  all  the  morning. 
The  base  of  the  rock  was  excavated  for  a  fosse  to  the 
castle,  and  there  was  a  row  of  granite  pedestals  of  columns. 
How  magnificent  the  colonnade  upon  this  promontory 
must  have  been !  After  some  trouble  in  finding  sweet 
water,  they  pitched  the  tent  in  a  grove  of  date-palm-trees. 
There  were  a  number  of  wells  in  the  field,  and  many 
women  passing  to  and  fro  with  jars  upon  their  heads. 

On  the  8th  the  road  led  along  the  sand  beach,  passing 
by  occasional  coves  and  over  ridges  of  rock.  When  near 
Castellum  Perigrinorum,  Charles  Homer,  seaman,  was 
wounded  by  the  accidental  discharge  of  a  gun.  The  load 
of  twelve  buck-shot  entered  the  under  part  of  the  arm 
near  the  wrist,  and  came  out  on  the  upper  side  below  the 
elbow,  lacerating  the  arm  dreadfully,  and,  as  it  afterwards 
proved,  shattering  one  of  the  bones.  The  severed  artery 
discharged  dark  arterial  blood  in  frightful  jets,  and  the 
wounded  man  suffered  excruciating  agony.  With  great 
difficulty,  Mr.  Bedlow  checked  the  bleeding,  and  the  poor 
fellow  was  slowly  conveyed  to  the  ruined  castle.  Fortu¬ 
nately  there  were  some  feluccas  in  the  harbour,  and  under 
charge  of  Mr.  B.  he  was  immediately  embarked  in  one  of 
them  for  Acre.  The  wind  was  fair  and  fresh,  and  in  six 
hours  they  reached  their  destination.  Homer  was  imme¬ 
diately  taken  to  the  consul’s  house,  and  a  surgeon  in  the 
Turkish  army,  who  had  been  educated  in  Ibrahim 
Pasha’s  medical  school  in  Egypt,  dressed  the  wound.  I 
dreaded,  however,  the  heat  of  the  climate,  and  felt  it  my 
duty  to  procure  for  the  unfortunate  man  the  most  com¬ 
fortable  quarters  and  the  very  best  surgical  attendance. 


460  CASTLE  OF  THE  PILGRIMS. 

I  therefore  sent  him,  the  same  evening,  to  Beirut,  under 
charge  of  Passed  Midshipman  Aulick,  Mr.  Bedlow,  and 
three  men. 

The  carriage  trucks,  and  all  our  effects  sent  back  from 
Tiberias,  were  also  embarked  in  the  brig.  On  their  arri¬ 
val,  Homer  was  without  delay  placed  under  the  care  of 
the  Sisters  of  Charity,  and  a  French  surgeon  of  eminence 
attended  him  daily.  The  only  time  that  I  have  ever 
been  addressed  by  an  Arab  female,  was  this  day,  when 
one  inquired  about  the  condition  of  the  wounded  sailor. 
Humanity,  a  lovely  tenant,  dwell  where  it  may,  has  its 
peculiar  and  appropriate  home  in  the  female  breast. 

The  castle  of  the  Pilgrims  is  a  mountain  of  masonry, 
furnishing  an  inexhaustible  quarry  for  exportation.  A 
village  of  about  thirty  families  is  perched  upon  the  sum¬ 
mit,  and  its  inhabitants  have  spent  their  lives  in  excava¬ 
tions.  A  road,  made  by  the  excavators,  runs  over  and 
around  the  hill.  A  beautiful  arched  window,  or  door¬ 
way  was  crammed  with  bundles  of  wheat.  One  apart¬ 
ment,  with  groined  arches  and  carved-work,  presented  a 
most  imposing  appearance.  It  is  in  perfect  preservation, 
dimly  lighted  from  the  doorway,  and  the  windows  facing 
the  sea; — it  was  used  as  a  cow-yard!  The  guide  said  that 
the  castle  was  built  “for  the  king’s  daughter.”  North  of 
the  castle,  was  a  magnificent  fragment  of  a  wall,  upwards 
of  one  hundred  feet  high,  built  of  large  stones,  crossing  a 
stream  which  is  probably  the  Wady  Ajil,  but  called,  by 
the  guide,  Nahr  Dustray  (Justeriyeh  ?).  They  then 
opened,  from  a  sand-ridge,  the  beautiful  vale  of  Esdraelon, 
running  down  by  Mount  Carmel,  towards  the  outlet  of 
the  Kishon.  Sometime  after,  they  passed  Mount  Carmel, 
with  its  convent,  the  temporary  resting-place  of  so  many 
travellers;  and,  riding  through  the  walled  village  of  Haifa, 
where  there  were  many  lazy  Arabs  lounging  about  the 
doors,  they  came  out  at  the  camping-ground  of  the  31st  of 


AN  ARAB  ENTERTAINMENT.  461 

March.  There  were  the  grave-yard,  the  ruined  tomb,  the 
carob-tree,  and  the  shelving  beach,  with  its  line  of  foam. 

Winding  along  the  beach,  and  again  crossing  the 
Kishon  and  the  Belus,  the  last  our  second  camping-place, 
they  halted  on  the  glacis  of  the  outer  parapet  of  the 
eastern  wall,  a  little  north  of  the  main  gate  of  the  fortress 
of  Acre.  In  front  was  the  plain,  with  an  aqueduct,  Abd’ 
Allah  Pasha’s  garden,  and  cultivated  fields  beyond,  to  the 
verge  of  the  mountains ;  behind,  and  on  each  side,  was 
the  sea. 

On  the  morning  of  the  9th,  we  had  a  visit  from  Sherif 
and  ’Akil,  who  came  in  state,  and  we  accepted  an  invita¬ 
tion  to  breakfast  with  them.  Going  into  the  town,  we 
saw  a  man  in  the  fosse  of  the  ramparts,  digging  for  bullets 
expended  in  various  sieges  of  the  place.  He  had  found  a 
number  of  them,  two  feet  below  the  surface. 

On  repairing  to  the  Sherif ’s,  a  little  after  noon,  we  were 
ushered,  through  a  paved  court,  into  a  large  room,  with  a 
lofty,  arched  ceiling ;  Persian  mats  were  upon  the  floor ; 
a  handsome  divan  at  one  end,  and  at  the  other  a  European 
bedstead ,  with  chintz  curtains ,  and  costly  weapons  were  hang¬ 
ing  against  the  walls.  Nubian  slaves  were  in  immediate 
attendance,  with  sherbet,  pipes,  and  coffee ;  shortly  after 
which,  followed  the  repast.  It  consisted  of  a  great  many 
dishes,  of  Arab  cookery,  and  was  served  up  in  an  im¬ 
mense  circular  brazen  tray.  Among  other  things,  there 
was  a  lamb,  roasted  whole,  which  ’Akil  tore  apart  and 
distributed  with  his  hands.  We  had  learned  not  to 
consider  knives  and  forks  as  indispensable;  and,  being 
hungry,  made,  tooth  and  nail,  a  hearty  meal.  In  ten 
minutes,  the  exercises  were  over;  and,  with  a  lavation 
and  a  pipe,  the  entertainment  concluded. 

Saturday,  June  10.  After  taking  some  observations  to 
connect  with  preceding  ones,  we  started,  at  8.15  A.  M., 
for  Nazareth,  via  the  Valley  of  the  Winds,  the  first 
39  * 


462 


RAPID  GERMINATION. 


encampment  of  our  previous  march.  The  aspect  of  the 
country  was  far  more  parched  and  dry  than  when  we  first 
saw  it ;  the  plain  was  embrowned  by  the  sun,  and  the  air 
filled  with  myriads  of  insects,  the  product  of  the  already 
decaying  vegetation.  At  11.45,  reached  the  former 
camping-place,  and  stopped  to  make  renewed  observations. 
To  our  deep  regret,  we  here  discovered  the  delicate 
boiling-water  apparatus,  for  determining  elevations,  to  be 
broken,  notwithstanding  all  our  care.  The  horses  were 
exceedingly  restive  from  the  heat  and  the  bites  of  insects, 
coming  across  the  wide  plain  of  Acre,  and  to  that  I  attri¬ 
buted  the  unfortunate  accident.  We  here  gathered  a  few 
flowers,  which,  the  offspring  of  a  more  mature  season,  were 
gaudy  in  their  colouring,  but  less  redolent  of  fragrance, 
than  those  which  bloomed  around  us  on  our  previous  visit. 
From  the  heat  of  the  climate,  vegetation  germinates,  ma¬ 
tures,  decays,  and  revivifies,  with  great  rapidity.  The 
poetical  figure  is  an  approximation  to  the  truth  : — 

“The  Syrian  flower 

Buds,  and  blooms,  and  withers,  in  an  hour.” 

At  1.30  P.  M.,  started  again,  and,  diverging  from  the 
route  we  had  before  pursued,  stopped  at  Sepphori  to 
examine  the  ruins  of  a  church  with  pointed  arches,  appa¬ 
rently  of  the  time  of  the  crusades.  At  4  P.  M.,  came  in 
sight  of  Nazareth,  seated  at  the  head  of  Wady  Hadj 
(Valley  of  the  Pilgrims),  which,  through  the  Wady  el 
Kafyeh  (Ravine  of  the  Leap),  communicates  with  the 
great  valley  of  Esdraelon.  Leaving  the  Greek  Church 
of  the  Annunciation  on  our  left,  we  skirted  the  eastern 
slope  of  the  mountain,  and,  descending  through  the  out¬ 
skirts  of  the  town,  camped,  where  so  many  travellers  had 
camped  before,  in  an  olive-grove,  about  eighty  yards  from 
the  Fountain  of  the  Virgin.  There  were  a  great  many 
women  and  children  around  the  fountain ;  the  children, 
sprightly,  with  intelligent  features ;  and  the  women,  the 


— 


— 


— 


t 


' 


■ 


M 


NAZARETH.  463 

most  cleanly  in  their  attire,  and  the  most  courteous  in 
their  manners,  of  any  we  had  seen  in  Syria. 

Sunday,  June  11.  We  visited  the  Franciscan  Convent, 
and  its  church,  containing  the  grotto  of  the  Annunciation. 
We  were  also  taken  to  the  reputed  workshop  of  St.  Jo¬ 
seph  ;  to  the  place  where  our  Saviour  dined  with  his  dis¬ 
ciples,  and  to  the  precipice  whither  he  was  led  by  the 
Jews. 

The  feelings  are  inexpressible  which  overpower  one  in 
passing  to  and  fro  amid  scenes  which,  for  the  greater  por¬ 
tion  of  his  mortal  existence,  were  frequented  by  our 
Saviour.  In  Jerusalem,  the  theatre  of  his  humiliations, 
his  sufferings,  and  his  death,  the  heart  is  oppressed  with 
awe  and  anguish;  but  in  Nazareth,  where  he  spent  his 
infancy,  his  youth,  and  his  early  manhood,  we  yearn 
towards  him  unchilled  by  awe,  and  unstricken  by  horror. 

In  its  secluded  position,  with  a  narrow  valley  before  it, 
and  mountains  in  every  other  direction,  we  liked  Naza¬ 
reth  better  even  than  Bethlehem,  and  thought  it  the 
prettiest  place  we  had  seen  in  Palestine.  The  streets 
were  perfectly  quiet ;  there  was  an  air  of  comfort  about 
the  houses,  and  the  people  were  better  dressed,  and  far 
more  civil,  than  any  we  had  encountered. 

Nazareth  contains  about  5000  inhabitants,  four-fifths 
Christians,  the  remainder  Muslims.  It  has  twenty-two 
villages  in  its  district,  which  is  subordinate  to  the  Pashalic 
of  Acre.  While  here,  we  paid  a  visit  to  a  Turkish  tax- 
gatherer,  who,  from  his  books,  furnished  us  with  much 
statistical  information  with  regard  to  the  tenure  and  the 
cultivation  of  land,  and  the  land-tax,  the  poll-tax,  and  the 
“kharaje,”  or  blood-tax,  paid  by  the  Christians.  This 
tax-gatherer  was  an  Egyptian,  with  a  dark  complexion, 
and  short,  crisp,  black  hair ;  his  wife,  a  native  of  Aleppo, 
in  the  north  of  Syria,  had  a  white  skin,  and  chesnut 
ringlets;  and  their  servant  woman  was  a  Maronite  of 


464 


ESDRAELOK. 


Mount  Lebanon,  with  high  cheek-bones,  a  freckled  face, 
and  reddish-brown  hair. 

Napoleon  stopped  at  Nazareth  after  haying  rescued 
General  Kleber  in  his  desperate  engagement  with  the 
Syrian  army,  in  the  plain  of  Esdraelon,  about  two  hours 
distant. 

We  found  here  the  heliotrope,  the  pink,  the  pheasant’s 
eye,  and  the  knotty  hartswort.  The  roots  and  seeds  of 
the  latter  are  medicinal,  having  similar  properties  to 
those  of  the  carrot.  The  Turks  are  said  to  eat  the 
young  shoots  as  a  salad. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

FROM  NAZARETH  TO  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE 

JORDAN. 

Monday,  June  12.  Started  for  Mount  Tabor,  bearing 
about  E.  S.  E.,  leaving  Cana  on  the  left.  There  were  many 
oak-trees  on  the  hill-sides  and  in  the  ravines,  but  no  culti¬ 
vation  and  very  few  flowers,  except  the  purple  bloom  of 
the  thorn.  Bearing  a  little  to  the  south,  we  soon  opened 
the  extensive  and  beautiful  plain  of  Esdraelon.  Over 
the  plain  was  the  village  of  Nain,  where  the  widow’s  son 
was  restored  to  life.  Skirting  along  the  northern  edge 
of  the  lovely  plain,  nearly  hemmed  in  by  lofty  hills,  and 
cultivated  in  patches,  with  here  and  there  a  village ; 
passing  the  battle-field  of  the  French,  and  the  reputed 
spot  where  Deborah  and  Barak  discomfited  Sisera,  we 
reached  a  village  at  the  base,  and  ascended  to  the  summit 


FOUNTAIN  OF  NAZARETH. 


MOUNT  TABOR. 


465 


of  Mount  Tabor;  the  sloping  sides,  two-thirds  up,  thickly 
dotted  with  oak-trees,  and  beautified  by  many  white  and 
yellow  flowers.  Near  the  top,  were  remains  of  ancient 
walls  and  fortifications ;  and  on  the  flattened  summit 
were  six  or  eight  acres  in  wheat,  being  harvested  by 
male  and  female  fellahin,  whose  homes  were  in  the  village 
below.  All  around  were  ruins,  many  of  cut  stone,  with¬ 
out  mortar,  the  loftiest  fragment  being  part  of  a  pedestal 
with  sculptured  plinths.  There  were  several  cisterns 
and  arched  vaults  on  the  southern  side  of  the  flattened 
summit.  This  is  the  reputed  Mount  of  Transfiguration, 
and  one  of  those  vaults  answers  annually  the  purpose  of 
a  chapel. 

From  the  summit  was  a  magnificent  view  of  the  plain 
of  Esdraelon,  stretching  to  the  range  of  Carmel  in  the 
west,  and  to  Mount  Gilboa  in  the  south,  with  its  off-shoot, 
the  plain  of  Jezrael,  reaching  east  to  the  Jordan.  To  the 
north-west,  was  Nazareth,  embosomed  among  the  hills ; 
to  the  north-east,  the  Sea  of  Galilee,  with  Safed  and  the 
snowy  peak  of  Ghibel  es  Sheikh  (Great  Mount  Ilermon) . 
To  the  south-east,  in  the  plain,  was  the  village  of  Endor; 
to  the  south-west,  was  Little  Mount  Hermon,  crowned 
with  a  ruined  mosque,  which  glittered  in  the  sunlight ; 
and  there  were  two  streams  from  the  north,  and  one  from 
the  southward  and  westward,  which,  uniting  under  the 
south-east  base  of  the  mountain,  flowed  along  the  plain, 
and  fell  into  the  J ordan  near  Beisan.  A  chapter  might 
be  written  upon  the  history  and  associations  of  Mount 
Tabor,  and  its  circumjacent  plain. 

Descending  the  mount,  and  pursuing  a  north-easterly 
course,  we  passed  a  large  khan,  where  about  1000  per¬ 
sons  had,  that  morning,  been  present  at  the  usual 
weekly  fair.  Thence  the  road,  in  nearly  a  due  east 
line,  led  over  rocky  ridges,  and  across  barren  ravines, 
for  ail  hour,  when  we  came  upon  several  large  cncamp- 

2e 


466 


A  DESOLATED  HOME. 


ments  of  black  tents,  with  much  cultivation,  and  many 
cattle  and  sheep  around  them.  In  the  fields  were  dhoura, 
wheat,  (the  last  being  harvested),  and  some  patches  of 
castor-bean,  which  is  raised  for  lamp-oil.  The  unculti¬ 
vated  parts  of  the  rolling  plain  abounded  with  the  khob 
(wild  artichoke),  bearing  a  large,  round,  beautiful  purple 
flower,  resembling  the  lilac  in  its  hue,  and  partaking  of 
the  fragrance  of  the  thyme. 

Soon  after,  we  passed  two  ruined  villages.  Just  below 
the  last  one,  was  a  deserted  garden,  with  apricot  and  fig 
trees.  No  one  reclined  in  the  grateful  shade  of  the  fruit- 
trees  ;  and  the  song  of  a  mother,  and  the  mimic  shouts 
of  children,  which  once  echoed  around  them,  were  no 
longer  heard.  It  is  not  difficult  to  surmise  the  fate  of 
the  family  —  the  father  killed  —  the  mother  and  the  chil¬ 
dren  driven  forth — helpless  wanderers.  A  few  months 
back,  and  this  was  probably  the  seat  of  domestic  happi¬ 
ness  ;  but  now  the  plaintive  cooing  of  the  dove  by  day, 
and  the  mournful  whooping  of  the  owl  at  night,  are  the 
only  sounds  which  find  an  echo  in  that  desolate  spot. 

Coming  to  the  summit  overlooking  the  Sea  of  Galilee, 
and  the  Jordan,  where  it  issued  from  it,  we  descended  to 
the  bank,  and  halted  near  our  first  camping-place  on  the 
river,  beside  the  ruined  bridge  of  Semakh.  Bathed,  for 
the  last  time,  in  the  lower  Jordan,  and  gathered  some 
flowers  and  shells,  memorials  of  the  consecrated  stream 
and  its  lovely  banks.  From  the  want  of  wood,  we  went 
nearly  supperless  to  bed. 

Tuesday,  June  13.  We  had  been  compelled,  last  night, 
to  pitch  our  tents  in  a  field  of  wheat  newly  cut.  When 
about  to  start,  this  morning,  I  sent  to  some  reapers  in  the 
adjoining  field  to  pay  the  owner  of  the  one  we  had  occu¬ 
pied  for  the  slight  damage  we  had  occasioned.  He  came 
slowly  and  with  hesitation,  and  appeared  perfectly 
astonished  when  he  understood  our  object.  The  idea  of 


A  DISAPPOINTMENT.  467 

remuneration  for  waste  of  another’s  property  never 
occurring  to  this  harassed  and  misgoverned  people. 

Our  course  to-day  was  along  the  western  shore  of  the 
lake.  Passing  the  ruins  of  Tarrichsea  and  of  Kades,  we 
stopped  to  bathe  in  the  hot  bath  of  Emmaus ; — the  water 
salt  and  sulphureous,  its  temperature  as  before,  143°.  The 
shore  of  the  lake  was  in  many  places  fringed  with  the  pink 
oleander,  and  we  saw  a  beautiful  violet  coloured  flower, 
as  round  and  as  large  as  a  small  apple,  growing  on  a 
thorn-like  bush.  We  met  a  Jewish  silver-smith  going 
from  Tiberias  to  the  Hauran,  to  supply  the  wives  and 
daughters  of  the  Arabs  with  trinkets ;  thus  combining 
thrift  with  the  preservation  of  health,  he  will  spend  the 
sultry  months  of  summer  in  the  mountains. 

At  9.30,  we  passed  the  gate  of  Tiberias;  a  few  persons 
on  the  crumbled  walls.  The  ground,  except  a  few  irri¬ 
gated  patches,  was  parched  and  dry,  and  there  was  much 
grain  being  trodden  out  by  cattle  and  mules. 

When  here  in  April,  we  purchased  the  only  boat  upon 
the  lake,  with  the  condition  that  another  should  be  pro¬ 
cured  by  the  1st  of  June  —  an  arrangement  we  were  in¬ 
duced  to  make  in  the  event  of  losing  our  boats  or  being 
unable  to  return  with  them.  To  our  great  regret,  we 
now  learned  that  the  one  being  built  on  the  sea-coast 
would  not  be  delivered  for  two  weeks,  a  delay  prohibited 
by  the  advancing  season  and  our  enfeebled  condition. 
Thus  fell  our  hopes  of  thoroughly  exploring  this  inland 
sea.  It  could  not  have  been  done  when  we  were  there 
before,  without  incurring  great  risk  of  failure  in  the  main 
objects  of  the  expedition. 

We  soon  after  reached  the  fountain  Bareideh,  with 
ruins  of  baths.  The  clear  thermal  stream  gushes  from 
the  ground  and  flows  into  a  reservoir,  and  thence,  through 
another,  out  upon  the  shore  and  into  the  sea.  There 
were  many  oleanders  and  purple  flowers  growing  around, 


468  FOUNTAIN  OF  THE  FIG. 

forming  a  lovely  grove,  and  there  were  some  gardens  and 
cucumber  beds  behind  and  beside  it.  Resting  a  short 
while  near  Mejdel  (Magdala),  our  road  ran  parallel  with 
the  sea-shore,  with  the  luxuriant  hut  uncultivated  plain 
of  Chinnereth  on  our  left,  and  the  holy  city  of  Safed  and 
Mount  Hermon  towering  before  us.  Upon  this  plain  it  is 
supposed  that  Chorazin  and  other  towns  mentioned  in 
the  New  Testament  were  situated. 

A  little  south  of  the  ruins  of  Khan  Minyeh  we  came  to 
’Ain  et  Tin  (Fountain  of  the  Fig).  From  the  base  of  a 
high  cliff  at  the  north-west  angle  of  the  sea,  the  limpid 
stream  gushes  out  beneath  a  rock,  with  two  large  fig-trees 
above  it, — whence  its  name.  The  water  is  sweet  and 
cooler  than  that  of  the  lake.  For  about  twenty  paces  it 
flows  a  broad  but  shallow  stream,  which  separates  into 
two  branches,  that  enclose  a  verdant  little  island,  almost 
exactly  in  the  shape  of  a  heart,  and  thence  its  united 
streams  have  worn  a  channel  to  the  sea.  Upon  the  cliff 
above,  Dr.  Robinson  places  the  site  of  Capernaum,  where 
our  Saviour  cured  the  centurion’s  servant.  We  examined 
the  brow  of  the  hill  very  minutely,  but  could  discover  no 
traces  of  ruins.  It  is  said  that  fragments  of  pottery  have 
been  found  there,  but  we  saw  none.  We  were  repaid, 
however,  by  the  splendid  view  of  the  sea  and  its  shores. 

Ascending  from  ’Ain  et  Tin,  turning  to  the  east,  and 
leaving  the  khan  and  the  usual  route  on  our  left,  the 
road  led  along  the  face  of  the  cliff,  being  cut  through  the 
rock,  about  four  feet  wide,  with  high  perpendicular  sides. 

We  soon  after  passed  Ain  et  Tobighali,  a  brackish 
stream,  with  a  flour-mill,  ruins  of  other  mills,  canals  and 
wells,  and  thence  along  a  slope,  barren  of  verdure  except 
a  few  isolated,  thorny  shrubs,  the  surface  covered  with 
boulders  of  ferruginous  sandstone.  We  next  came  to 
Tannur  Eiyub  (Job’s  oven),  a  small  building  with  a  dome 
roof.  In  the  door-way  were  several  females,  coy  but 


curious,  gazing  at  us.  A  short  distance  beyond  was  Tell 
Hum  (Hill  of  Hum) ,  the  reputed  site  of  “  Frank’ s-town,” 
built  by  the  crusaders.  The  Arabs  call  it  “Infidel’s 
buildings.”  To  my  feeble  understanding,  this  seemed  the 
most  probable  site  of  Capernaum.  It  is  about  the  centre 
of  the  northern  shore  line  of  the  sea,  and  commands  a 
more  extensive  view  of  the  latter,  and  is  more  conspicu¬ 
ous  from  it,  than  the  cliff  over  ’Ain  et  Tin,  at  the  north¬ 
west  angle.  Next  to  Safed,  the  words  “  a  city  seated  on 
a  hill”  seem  most  applicable  to  it. 

Early  in  the  afternoon,  we  arrived  at  the  debouchure 
of  the  upper  Jordan.  Flowing  through  an  extensive 
and  fertile  plain,  the  river  pours  itself  in  a  wide  and 
shallow  stream  into  the  sea,  nearly  at  its  north-east 
extremity. 

Upon  the  western  shore,  near  the  mouth  of  the  river, 
were  many  tents  of  the  tribe  El  Batiheh.  A  number 
of  these  were  constructed  of  wattled  cane,  giving  free 
access  to  the  air,  and,  from  their  diminutive  size,  more 
resembled  cages  for  beasts  than  human  habitations. 
Much  of  the  plain  had  been  under  cultivation,  but  the 
harvest  was  over,  and  the  fields  were  blackened  from  the 
burning  of  the  stubble.  We  encamped  on  the  western 
bank,  about  half  a  mile  up  the  stream,  to  avoid  the  near 
vicinity  of  the  Arabs,  this  tribe  having  a  bad  reputation. 
Across  the  river  on  the  first  spur  of  the  hills  which  bound 
the  plain  in  that  direction,  is  a  village,  the  reputed  site 
of  Bethsaida.  The  river  ran  in  front  of  the  camp,  about 
ten  paces  distant,  and  in  the  rear  and  on  one  side,  as  well 
as  along  the  bank,  were  a  great  many  oleanders  in  full 
bloom.  This  day  there  were  very  many  oleanders  along 
the  sea-shore,  and  in  some  places  the  road  passed  through 
groves  of  them,  but  we  did  not  meet  the  aromatic  shrub 
mentioned  by  Strabo.  The  purple  flower  I  have  before 
mentioned  was  frequent.  The  day  had  been  oppressively 
40 


470 


MOUNT  HERMON. 


hot,  and  as  soon  as  the  observations  of  Polaris  were 
taken,  we  retired  —  but  not  to  sleep  —  for  we  were  dread¬ 
fully  tormented  by  mosquitoes  and  fleas ;  and  the  dis¬ 
tressing  cries  of  the  jackals  were  more  incessant  even 
than  they  were  the  night  before. 

Starting  early  on  the  14th,  the  road  led  at  first  through 
a  morass  intersected  by  several  streams  and  numerous 
ditches,  and  covered  with  a  tangled  growth  of  shrubbery. 
Bethsaida,  the  birth-place  of  Peter,  Andrew,  and  Philip, 
in  full  sight  to  the  north-east.  We  soon  began  to  ascend, 
clambering  up  the  western  hills,  the  river  becoming 
rapid,  brawling,  and  more  contracted  in  its  width  —  its 
banks  fringed  with  the  cane,  the  willow,  and  the  oleander, 
the  last  in  great  profusion,  its  delicate  pink  hue  contrast¬ 
ing  well  with  the  light  and  dark  green  of  the  other  vege¬ 
tation.  After  a  toilsome  ascent  of  an  hour,  we  reached 
the  summit  of  the  hill  overlooking  the  plain.  From  it 
was  a  fine  view  of  the  Sea  of  Galilee  and  the  Jordan,  the 
latter  rushing  down  in  one  line  of  foam  fringed  with  wil¬ 
lows,  oleanders,  and  the  ghiirrah  of  the  lower  Ghor. 
Thence  descending  and  ascending  the  sides  of  a  deep 
ravine,  we  reached  the  highest  elevation,  whence  the  face 
of  the  country  breaks  down  towards  lake  Iluleh.  Thus 
far  from  the  head  of  the  plain,  the  river  has  been  a  per¬ 
fect  torrent.  Mount  Ilermon  soon  came  into  view,  its 
brow  seamed  with  lines  of  snow,  which  were  fast  disap¬ 
pearing  beneath  the  sun  of  a  Syrian  summer.  Passing  a 
reservoir  and  a  ruined  khan,  we  came  at  noon  to  Jisr  benat 
Ya’kob  (Jacob’s  daughter’s  Bridge),  with  four  arches. 
There  was  a  toll-house  on  the  western  shore,  and  the 
ruins  of  an  extensive  khan  on  the  eastern  side.  Here 
the  river  flowed  with  great  rapidity,  being  the  first  rapid 
below  the  upper  lake.  The  last  was  visible  from  the 
bridge. 

Above  the  bridge,  the  river,  about  forty  yards  wide, 


A  FERTILE  PLAIN. 


471 


and  full  to  the  utmost  capacity  of  its  banks,  flowed  in 
nearly  a  due  south  course,  through  a  narrow  plain.  Our 
road  led  parallel  with  the  river,  until  we  opened  on  a  yet 
more  extensive  plain,  with  the  lake  on  its  eastern  side. 
This  plain  was  under  partial  cultivation ;  there  were  two 
villages  (one  in  ruins)  near  the  centre,  and  many  Arab 
encampments  scattered  about,  —  the  men  smoking  in  the 
tents,  while  the  women,  with  uncovered  heads,  were  at 
work  in  the  broiling  sun.  This  lake  is  the  Merom  of 
the  Bible,  and  upon  this  plain,  Joshua  overthrew  the 
Canaanites. 

We  stopped  to  rest  at  ’Ain  el  Mellahah  (Fountain  of 
the  Salt  Works),  with  a  primitive  grist-mill  beside  it. 
Back  of  the  mill,  was  a  beautiful  little  lake  of  cool,  pel¬ 
lucid  water.  The  lofty  hill  to  the  south  was  covered 
with  what  seemed  blocks  of  lava  and  sconce,  but  we  were 
too  much  overcome  by  heat  and  fatigue  to  visit  it. 

In  the  afternoon,  our  course  led  along  the  western  edge 
of  the  plain,  between  the  lake  and  the  mountains.  We 
passed  a  large  pond  filled  by  numerous  springs;  a  Turkish 
mausoleum  on  a  high  western  cliff,  and  a  deep  and  wide 
ravine,  with  ruins  on  its  northern  summit.  The  plain 
seemed  perfectly  level  to  the  eye ;  and  there  were  two 
streams  running  down  its  northern  end,  which,  with  the 
numerous  fountains,  render  it  very  fertile.  There  were 
many  encampments  of  the  fellahin,  who  cultivate  rice  and 
dlioura.  The  tents  were  of  cane  wicker-work,  with  up¬ 
right  sides,  and  more  comfortable  than  any  we  had  seen. 
The  hills  on  the  left  formed  a  lofty  range  of  swelling 
domes,  terminating  to  the  north  in  an  abrupt  perpen¬ 
dicular  face  of  horizontal  strata,  —  the  prevailing  rock, 
limestone.  Sweeping  round  the  head  of  the  plain  to  the 
north-east,  we  ascended  to  an  elevated  plateau,  and 
camped  on  the  banks  of  the  Golden  Stream,  a  tributary 
of  the  river  of  Banias,  one  of  the  former  supposed  sources 


472 


ANCIENT  DAN. 


of  the  Jordan.  The  castle  of  Honin,  which  was  con¬ 
cealed  from  view  when  on  the  plain,  bore  north-west. 
It  seemed  a  bold,  commanding  fortress,  on  the  extreme 
summit  of  the  western  range. 

Starting  early  on  the  15th,  our  course  led  north-east, 
along  the  brow  of  the  hill  overlooking  the  Ardh  el  Huleh 
(Lands  of  Huleh),  the  lake,  Tell  el  Kadi  (Hill  of  the 
Judge),  and  the  town  of  Banias,  with  several  villages  in 
sight.  Much  dhoura  and  rice,  but  little  wheat,  cultivated 
in  the  plain. 

In  two  hours,  we  crossed  a  fine  old  Roman  bridge,  with 
its  three  arches,  spanning  the  river  Hasbeiya  (the  true 
Jordan),  which,  far  below,  swept  through  with  great  velo¬ 
city,  its  rushing  and  tumbling  waters  darkened  with  frag¬ 
ments  of  rock  peering  above  the  eddying  whirls  of  foam ; 
the  light  spray  half  concealing  the  green  fringe,  richly 
decked  with  flowers,  which  ran  along  its  shores. 

In  one  hour  more,  we  came  to  Tell  el  Kadi  (Hill  of  the 
Judge),  the  site  of  ancient  Dan,  and  the  Laish  of  the  Ca- 
naanites,  66  the  utmost  border  northwards  of  the  land  of 
Israel,”  and  where  Jeroboam  placed  one  of  his  golden 
calves.  It  is  an  oblong  hill,  with  swelling  sides  and  a 
flattened  summit,  about  eighty  feet  above  the  plain. 
Over  the  crest  is  a  hollow,  where  the  fountain  bubbles  up. 
There  were  a  great  many  oak-trees  scattered  about ;  and 
to  the  south-west,  a  ruined  stone-house,  not  very  ancient; 
and,  in  the  same  direction,  on  a  smaller  elevation,  a 
ruined  village.  There  was  much  tufa,  and  some  quartz, 
and  the  whole  hill  bore  traces  of  volcanic  characters. 

On  the  west  side,  a  short  distance  from  the  fountain,  a 
stream,  or  rather  many  streams,  gushed  out  so  copiously 
from  the  hill-side  as,  in  an  instant,  to  form  a  river ;  the 
water  clear,  sweet  and  cool.  This  was  long  supposed  to 
be  the  highest  source  of  the  Jordan,  and  from  it  the 
name  is  said  to  have  been  derived.  The  only  objection 


r 


CESAREA  PHILIPPI.  473 

(although  unconfessed),  of  many  to  the  derivation  is 
that  it  is  too  simple.  The  Hebrew  words  Jor  and  Dan, 
as  rendered  in  our  language,  mean  Kiver  and  Judge. 
Dan,  in  Hebrew,  being  the  same  as  kadi  in  Arabic.  To 
this  place,  as  related  in  Genesis,  Abraham  pursued  the 
kings. 

Thence  to  Banias  (Cesarea  Philippi),  the  road  led,  in 
nearly  an  easterly  direction,  through  a  beautiful  country, 
with  numerous  clumps  of  trees,  mostly  oak,  and  many  coy 
flowers,  peeping  out  from  the  tufted  grass.  Ascending  a 
hill-side,  dotted  with  oaks,  we  encountered  many  streams 
rushing  down,  it  being  the  hour  of  irrigation.  Passing 
through  an  extensive  olive-orchard,  with  grain  growing 
beneath  and  around  the  trees,  we  opened  the  town,  seated 
near  the  head  of  a  narrow  valley,  with  the  ruins  of  a 

bridge,  over  a  deep  ravine,  and  a  castle  towering  high 

on  the  hill  which  overlooked  it  from  the  east.  In 

every  direction  there  were  broken  shafts  and  capitals  of 

marble  pillars  scattered  upon  the  ground,  and  an  entire 
bridge,  through  the  single  arch  of  which  rushed  a  clear, 
rapid  stream,  that  immediately  after  leaped  down  some 
twenty  feet,  and  was  lost  to  sight  in  the  deep  and  winding 
gorge.  It  was  the  Kiver  of  Banias,  one  of  the  tributaries 
of  Lake  Huleh. 

The  houses,  built  of  uncemented  stones  taken  from  the 
ruins,  were  mostly  one  story  high,  almost  every  one  sur¬ 
mounted  by  a  light,  graceful  structure  of  lithe  and  flexible 
boughs,  wattled  with  the  leaves  upon  them,  and  with  net¬ 
work-like  cane  floors,  laid  on  transverse  poles,  some  two 
or  three  feet  above  the  roof  of  the  dwelling.  There  were 
many  mulberry-trees  about,  cultivated,  we  were  told, 
more  for  the  fruit  than  for  rearing  the  silk-worm,  only  a 
small  quantity  of  silk  being  raised. 

Stopping  to  rest,  a  few  moments,  under  a  majestic  oak, 
on  a  raised  platform,  encircled  three  feet  high  by  a  wall 
40  * 


474 


AN  IMPROVED  CULTURE. 


of  fluted  and  chiselled  blocks  of  marble,  we  proceeded  to 
the  cave,  beneath  which,  it  is  said,  flows  the  stream  we 
had  crossed,  which  finds  an  outlet  farther  down.  The 
cave  was  dry,  but,  in  places,  bore  marks  of  recent  water. 
We  were  assured  that,  in  the  rainy  season,  it  is  nearly 
filled.  It  no  doubt  communicates,  through  a  fissure,  with 
one  gorge  or  more  in  the  mountain  above.  In  the  face 
of  the  rock,  above  and  beside  the  cave,  were  niches,  sup¬ 
posed  to  have  been  occupied  by  statues  of  Pan  and  the 
nymphs,  for  another  name  of  this  place  is  Paneas.  There 
is  a  fabulous  legend  of  the  true  source  of  this  stream 
being  Lake  Phiala,  a  short  distance  to  the  south-east  of 
the  town.  J osephus  states  that  “  Philip  the  Tetrarch  cast 
straw  into  this  lake,  which  came  out  again  at  Panion, 
which,  till  that  time,  was  taken  for  the  head  of  the  Jor¬ 
dan.”  To  this  place  our  Saviour  came  from  Bethsaida. 

From  Banias  we  pursued  a  north-west  course,  the 
country  rolling;  the  soil,  like  that  of  yesterday,  red 
clay,  with  a  substratum  of  limestone,  which  occasion¬ 
ally  cropped  out.  At  first  there  was  much  cultiva¬ 
tion,  and  a  great  many  people  harvesting;  their  com¬ 
plexions  were  much  lighter  than  those  of  the  dwellers  in 
the  plain.  The  women  wore  petticoats  and  aprons ;  and, 
when  first  seen,  there  was  a  general  shout  along  the  line — 
66  hurrah  for  civilization!”  We  soon  came  upon  stone 
fences,  and  other  marks  of  a  more  secure  tenure  of  pro¬ 
perty  ;  and  the  people  were  courteous ;  saluting  and 
returning  the  salutations  of  strangers.  In  saluting,  they 
placed  the  right  hand  upon  the  breast.  We  were  once 
more  among  Christians. 

The  road  led  over  two  high  mountain-ridges  and  down 
into  a  rolling  plain,  with  fields  of  dhoura,  beans,  and 
houma,  and  across  the  Hasbeiya  (Jordan),  by  a  bridge  at 
Khan  Suleil.  It  then  wound,  first  to  the  north,  and  then 
gradually  to  the  north-east,  along  the  valley,  which  nar- 


475 


TOWN  OF  HASBEIYA. 

rowed  as  we  advanced,  and  led  through  groves  of  olive 
and  some  poplars,  and  by  fields  of  grain,  in  sight  of 
several  villages.  Turning  to  the  south,  and  crossing  the 
river  again  at  a  ford,  and  then  rounding  to  the  east,  we 
clambered  the  steep  Wady  et  Teim,  along  a  most  exe¬ 
crable  road.  It  is  said  that  the  mountaineers,  to  increase 
their  security,  purposely  render  their  roads  almost  im¬ 
passable.  We  soon  opened  the  town  of  Hasbeiya,  seated 
far  up  on  the  crest  of  the  right  acclivity,  its  castle  and  a 
minaret  conspicuous,  and  camped  on  a  ledge,  in  an  olive- 
grove,  about  one-third  up  from  the  bed  of  the  ravine. 

The  town  was  two  hundred  feet  above  us,  on  the  opposite 
side,  on  the  crest  of  a  hill,  which  sweeps  from  east  round 
to  south,  and  overlooks  the  ravine  on  those  two  sides. 
The  houses  are  two  stories  high,  with  the  universal  flat 
mud  roof,  which  answers  very  well,  there  being,  even  at 
that  elevation,  but  little  frost  in  winter  to  affect  them. 
It  is  not  a  walled  town,  but  its  terraces,  and  the  horizontal 
lines  of  houses  along  the  face  of  the  hill,  give  it  quite  a 
fortified  aspect.  There  were  groves  of  olive,  mulberry, 
and  fig,  and  some  apricot  trees  on  each  side  of  the  ravine, 
from  its  head  as  far  down  as  we  could  see.  There  was  a 
large  stone  reservoir,  with  a  ruined  bridge,  at  the  head 
of  the  ravine ;  a  meagre  fountain  a  little  lower  down ; 
and,  immediately  below  us,  three  or  four  silk-mills,  con¬ 
structed  of  wattled  twigs,  like  the  summer  sleeping  apart¬ 
ments  on  the  roofs  at  Banias.  On  the  cliffs  behind  us 
were  many  scattered  oaks,  with  here  and  there  an  orchard 
and  a  dwelling.  The  rich  cultivation  extended  from  the 
head  of  the  ravine  far  up  to  a  village  on  the  mountain¬ 
side,  which  was,  in  turn,  overlooked  by  the  snow-capped 
crest  of  Mount  Ilermon,  Ghebel  es  Sheikh,  Mountain  of 
the  Aged,  or  Lord  of  the  Mountain,  as  it  is  variously 
rendered. 

From  extreme  weariness,  we  could  not  leave  the  tents 


476 


RELIGIOUS  DISCORD. 


the  day  after  our  arrival,  even  to  visit  the  town,  hut  im¬ 
patiently  awaited  intelligence  from  our  wounded  comrade ; 
intending,  if  his  life  were  in  danger,  to  hasten  to  him. 

On  the  16th,  we  received  a  great  many  visitors,  and 
obtained  much  information  from  some  of  the  most  intelli¬ 
gent.  There  are  1500  who  pay  poll-tax  in  the  town;  and 
as  it  is  only  paid  by  able-bodied  men,  over  twenty-one 
and  under  forty  years  of  age,  there  must  be  near  9000 
inhabitants  in  Hasbeiya,  of  whom  two-thirds  are  Chris¬ 
tians,  mostly  of  the  Greek  persuasion.  The  Protest¬ 
ants  number  fifty-five ;  the  Maronites,  fifty ;  the  Greek 
Catholics,  thirty;  and  there  are  a  few  Jews.  There  was 
great  religious  discord  here :  the  members  of  the  Greek 
church  being  prohibited  from  speaking  to,  or  holding  any 
communication  with  the  Protestants.  The  governor  was 
under  the  influence  of  the  Greeks,  it  was  asserted,  from 
mercenary  considerations ;  but  the  rest  of  the  Muslims, 
as  well  as  the  Druses,  were  free  from  intolerance,  and 
seemed  disposed  to  favour  the  persecuted.  Freedom  of 
religious  worship  was  denied  to  the  Protestants,  and  we 
were  indignant  witnesses  of  the  persecutions  to  which 
they  were  subjected. 

We  are,  mercifully,  so  framed  as  to  depend  upon  asso¬ 
ciation  with  each  other,  to  relieve  necessities,  to  enhance 
enjoyments,  and  to  maintain  security.  Peace,  therefore, 
and  harmony,  unity  and  benevolence,  is  the  proper  con¬ 
dition  of  the  human  family;  without  which,  man  but 
cumbers  the  earth  he  should  adorn ;  and,  in  his  abase¬ 
ment,  deeply  feels  the  abiding  curse  of  Ishmael, — “  thy 
hand  is  against  every  man,  and  every  mans  hand  against 
thee.” 

Of  all  the  embittered  feelings  of  the  human  heart,  there 
are  none  so  detestable  as  those  engendered  by  fanaticism. 
Of  all  the  human  family,  there  is  not  one  so  malevolent 
and  so  fiendish  as  the  sour  and  self-sufficient  bigot,  who, 


SOURCE  OF  THE  JORDAN. 


477 


catching  a  brand  from  the  altar  of  Moloch,  lights  the  fires 
of  persecution,  and  perverting,  with  infamous  audacity, 
the  mild  breathings  of  the  sacred  volume  into  lessons  of 
cruelty  and  proscription,  becomes  the  foe  of  his  fellow- 
man  and  the  mocker  of  his  august  Creator.  The  perse¬ 
cuted  have  our  warmest  sympathies. 

In  the  afternoon,  Prince  Ali  called  upon  us.  He  is 
of  the  family  of  Shehab,  which  came  in  with  Saladin,  and 
is  the  oldest  in  Syria.  We  accompanied  him  to  the  source 
of  the  Jordan.  Descending  the  ravine,  and  turning  to 
the  north,  we  passed  through  groves  of  olive,  fig,  and 
mulberry  trees,  and  crossed  the  river  over  a  one-arched 
bridge ;  the  banks  lined  with  willow  and  plane  trees,  and 
luxuriantly  fertile.  Thence  going  east,  in  ten  minutes 
we  came  suddenly  to  the  source,  a  bold,  perpendicular 
rock,  from  beneath  which  the  river  gushed  copious,  trans¬ 
lucent,  and  cool,  in  two  rectangular  streams,  one  to  the 
north-east,  the  other  to  the  north-west.  The  scarp  of 
the  rock  was  about  forty  feet  high ;  and  the  north-east 
branch,  being  mere  back-water,  extended  only  a  few 
hundred  yards;  but  its  banks  were  fringed  with  the 
wild  rose,  the  white  and  pink  oleander,  and  the  clematis 
orientalis,  or  oriental  virgin’s  bower.  The  north-west 
branch,  at  the  distance  of  about  a  hundred  yards, 
plunged  over  a  dam,  and  went  rushing  through  the  arch 
of  the  bridge  below.  The  hand  of  art  could  not  have 
improved  the  scene.  The  gigantic  rock,  all  majesty, 
above ;  its  banks,  enamelled  with  beauty  and  fragrance, 
all  loveliness,  beneath ;  render  it  a  fitting  fountain-head 
of  a  stream  which  was  destined  to  lave  the  immaculate 
body  of  the  Redeemer  of  the  world.  Mr.  Dale,  who  had 
the  eye  of  an  artist,  thought  that  the  scene  would  make 
a  more  beautiful  picture  than  any  he  had  ever  beheld. 
He  sketched  it,  with  Prince  Ali  in  the  foreground. 

The  costume  of  the  prince,  except  in  the  richness  of 


478 


THE  DRUSES. 


the  materials,  was  the  same  as  that  of  the  majority  of  the 
males  of  the  upper  class.  He  wore  a  low  crimson  tar- 
bouch,  with  a  flat  silver  button  on  the  crown,  a  brown 
cloth  embroidered  jacket,  with  short,  tight  sleeves,  loose 
white  trousers  gathered  at  the  ancles,  a  green  sash  round 
the  waist,  and  red  boots  and  slippers  upon  the  feet.  The 
lower  orders,  instead  of  the  jacket,  were  mostly  attired 
in  a  gown  of  some  striped  pattern,  with  slashed  sleeves, 
open  in  front,  and  confined  by  a  sash.  The  women  were 
adorned  with  ear-rings,  and  wore  the  red  cloth  cap  with 
the  button,  and  a  string  of  gold  pieces  in  front,  spanning 
from  ear  to  ear  across  the  brow,  and  a  white  veil  thrown 
over  all.  The  ear-rings  consist  of  three  or  four  gazas 
(gold  pieces)  each,  suspended  from  a  golden  loop.  Like 
the  Egyptian  women,  they  dye  their  eye-lids  with  anti¬ 
mony  and  soot,  which  gives  an  unearthly  appearance,  and 
very  much  disfigures  them. 

While  here,  our  observation  confirmed  the  accounts 
given  us  of  the  wonderful  product  of  terrace  cultivation, 
but  I  will  not  cumber  my  already  extended  narrative 
with  statistics. 

There  were  many  Druse  and  Christian  women  at  work 
with  the  men  in  the  fields.  The  former  do  not  allow 
their  faces  to  be  seen  by  strangers.  The  other  women, 
without  being  immodest,  did  not  shun  being  seen. 

There  are  supposed  to  be  ten  thousand  Druses  able  to 
bear  arms,  which  make  about  fifty  thousand  in  all,  living 
in  the  Lebanon,  from  Beirut  to  Tyre,  along  the  coast,  in 
the  Hauran,  and  near  Damascus.  Their  religion  is  little 
known.  A  catechism  of  it  which  has  been  published,  is  so 
ambiguous,  that  it  throws  little  light  upon  their  creed.  It 
originated  in  Egypt.  The  tradition  as  related  to  us,  is  this. 
In  the  600th  year  of  the  Hegira,  or  about  800  years  ago, 
there  was  a  tyrannical  ruler  of  Egypt,  who  was  persuaded 
by  an  artful  Persian  to  declare  himself  a  god.  Shortly 


LEBANON. 


479 


after  the  self-constituted  deity  disappeared,  murdered,  it 
was  supposed,  by  his  instigator,  with  the  connivance  of 
the  tyrant’s  sister.  The  Persian  then  gave  out  that  the 
missing  deity  had  left  a  book  suspended  to  the  door  of  the 
great  mosque,  where  it  was  found.  This  book  is  rever¬ 
enced  as  their  bible.  It  inculcates  the  transmigration  of 
souls,  and  enjoins  conformity  in  outward  observance  with 
the  prevailing  religion  of  the  state.  They  teach  the 
Koran  to  their  children,  and  recite  it  in  their  public 
prayers,  while  they  are  said  secretly  to  detest  it.  They 
have  houses  of  prayer,  apart  from  their  villages,  whither 
they  repair  every  Friday  evening.  Prayers  on  such  occa¬ 
sions  are  first  offered  in  open  communion,  but,  towards 
the  close  of  the  exercises  the  great  body  of  the  people 
retire,  and  only  the  initiated  remain.  They  are  taught 
to  give  no  direct  answer  to  one  of  another  persuasion.  If 
one  be  asked  his  name,  he  will  probably  say  that  he  does 
not  know.  Much  was  told  us  of  their  secret  rites,  which 
I  discard  as  being  too  horrid  to  be  true.  The  costume  of 
the  men  is  the  turban,  with  the  tarbouch  beneath,  Turkish 
trowsers  and  slippers,  and  a  spencer  or  light  frock,  open 
in  front.  With  similar  dresses,  the  married  women  wear 
the  long  hollow  horn,  its  base  resting  on  the  head  and  its 
point  protruding  forwards  or  sideways,  much  in  the  shape 
of  an  elongated  cone. 

On  the  17th,  Mr.  Dale  and  myself  visited  the  valley  of 
the  Litany  (ancient  Leontes) .  Crossing  a  cultivated  ridge, 
with  Kiilat  es  Shuldf  (castle  Belle  Forte  of  the  crusaders) 
to  the  S.  W.,  we  came  upon  a  ravine,  with  a  stream  run¬ 
ning  down  from  the  south  at  right  angles  with  the  river. 
The  torrent  of  water  pouring  down  the  ravine,  rushed 
across  the  river  and  regurgitated  loudly  in  a  large  cave 
on  the  opposite  shore. 

The  rolling  valley  of  the  Buk’ah  is  hemmed  in  by  the 
two  parallel  ridges  of  Lebanon  and  anti-Lebanon.  The 


480 


BEAUTIFUL  SCENE. 


latter  skirts  it  on  the  east,  the  former  upon  the  west. 
Like  the  waving  hacks  of  huge  monsters,  whose  bodies 
are  prostrate  but  their  heads  erect,  their  summits  stretch 
in  ascending  lines  to  the  north  till  they  terminate  in  two 
crowning  peaks,  Ghebel  es  Sheikh  and  Ghebel  Sunnin, 
each  capped  and  ribbed  with  snow.  The  Litany  ran  here 
close  against  the  Lebanon  range,  the  stream  visible  here 
and  there,  far  down  the  steep  chasm. 

Descending,  with  great  difficulty,  we  came  upon  the 
river  where  it  flowed  impetuously  beneath  a  natural 
bridge, — an  arch  excavated,  by  the  water,  through  the 
opposing  mass  of  rock.  The  reverberating  noise  beyond 
soon  told  of  its  reappearance ;  and,  clambering  along  and 
down  the  precipice,  we  saw  it  issuing  gently,  at  first,  from 
its  subterranean  chasm,  its  banks  fringed  with  the  willow 
and  the  plane  tree,  and  decked  with  flowers  of  the  richest 
hue.  The  stream  thence  flowed  with  increasing  velocity, 
for  about  200  yards,  between  a  high,  naked  rock  on  one 
side,  and  a  luxuriant  growth  of  overhanging  plane-trees 
on  the  other,  when,  whirling  suddenly  to  the  right,  and 
again  to  the  left,  it  gathered  its  tumultuous  waters,  and, 
rushing  in  a  narrow  but  impetuous  cascade  into  a  circular 
basin,  it  thence  leaped  twenty  feet  into  a  foaming  caldron. 
The  rays  of  the  sun  were  reflected  in  rain-bow  hues,  as 
they  fell  upon  the  long  line  of  foam,  which  sparkled  and 
glittered  among  the  trees,  whose  branches  almost  inter¬ 
twined  above,  and  nearly  overshadowed  the  stream  that 
rushed  so  madly  beneath.  If  the  site  of  the  grove  of 
Daphne  were  upon  this  stream  instead  of  the  Orontes, 
here,  no  doubt,  would  have  been  the  favoured  spot. 

We  here  gathered  the  altliea,  the  retem,  or  broom- 
plant,  the  dianthus,  or  pink,  and  the  snap-dragon. 

On  our  return,  we  had,  from  an  elevation,  a  full  view 
of  the  Ardh  el  Huleh  (Lands  of  Huleh),  lake  Huleh,  the 
Jordan  above  and  beyond,  and  the  Sea  of  Galilee  in  the 


WOMEN  AT  THE  FOUNTAIN.  481 

distance.  Turning  aside  from  the  road,  we  visited  some 
pits  of  bitumen.  There  were  five  of  them ;  two  then  in 
operation,  one  sixteen  and  the  other  twenty-five  feet  deep. 
The  bitumen  is  less  porous  than  that  of  the  Dead  Sea. 

With  the  exception  of  those  of  the  highest  class  among 
the  Turks,  all  the  females  of  the  town  came  indiscrimi¬ 
nately  to  the  fountain  in  the  ravine  for  water.  Each  one 
carried  a  large  jar,  some  upon  the  head,  but  most  upon 
the  back  of  the  neck,  between  the  shoulders.  While 
here,  we  saw  the  wives  and  daughters  of  Christians  (Pro¬ 
testants  and  Greeks),  Druses  and  Turks,  among  them  the 
married  daughter  of  the  richest  man  in  town,  pass,  at  all 
hours  of  the  day,  to  and  from  the  fountain. 

The  transition  from  a  severely  active  life  in  the  plains 
to  a  wholly  inactive  one  in  an  elevated  region  proved 
very  trying,  and  we  waited  impatiently  for  intelligence 
from  our  comrade.  Not  hearing  on  Sunday,  I,  that 
evening,  despatched  a  messenger  to  Beirut. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

FROM  THE  SOURCE  OF  THE  JORDAN  TO 
DAMASCUS,  B A’ALBEK,  AND  BEIRUT. 

Receiving,  on  Monday,  the  joyful  intelligence  that 
Homer  was  out  of  danger,  and  that  Mr.  Aulick  and  Mr. 
Bedlow  were  on  the  way  to  rejoin  us,  I  determined  to 
remain  no  longer  inactive;  and,  early  on  the  19th,  started 
to  lead  the  party  over  the  Anti-Lebanon  into  the  plain  of 
Damascus. 

41  2  f 


482 


EXTENSIVE  LANDSCAPE. 


Clambering  diagonally  up  the  mountain-side,  which 
was  beautifully  terraced,  and  clothed  with  vineyards  and 
olive  and  mulberry  orchards,  we  passed  two  Druse  vil¬ 
lages,  and  a  silk-mill,  near  a  cave,  which  was  filled  with 
water,  and  contained  crypts  and  sarcophagi. 

The  cultivation  gradually  disappeared  as  we  ascended, 
and  was  succeeded  by  dwarf  oaks,  with  some  large  ones 
in  the  hollows,  and  in  sheltered  places ;  there  were 
several  streams  trickling  down  the  mountain  side.  Near 
the  streams  was  some  grass,  and  on  their  banks,  and  upon 
the  mountain-slope,  we  observed  the  oleander,  the  con¬ 
volvulus,  the  pink-flowered  valerian,  and  the  retem  or 
broom-plant,  the  last  covered  with  its  straw-coloured  and 
fragrant  blossoms.  The  oak  was  succeeded  by  heath  and 
fern,  the  last  beautiful  with  its  small,  scarlet  blossom ; 
then  succeeded  lichens  and  moss,  terminating  in  masses 
of  limestone-rock,  with  boulders  of  quartz.  We  crossed, 
in  a  gorge  (the  Wistanee),  between  Mount  Hermon  and  the 
next  peak  to  the  southward.  The  two  crests  were  covered 
and  many  clefts  on  both  sides  filled  with  snow.  From 
the  summit,  the  country  below,  which  had  seemed  so 
mountainous  to  the  upward  view,  appeared  an  immense 
rolling  plain.  Far  to  the  north-west,  at  the  verge  of  the 
seeming  plain,  were  the  red  sands,  a  dazzling  line  of  gold 
separating  the  luxuriant  green  of  the  plain  from  the  light 
azure  of  the  far-stretching  sea.  Upon  that  line  of  sand, 
like  clustering  dots  upon  a  chart,  were  the  cities  of  Tyre, 
Sidon,  and  Beirut.  Another  plain  stretched,  from  the 
opposite  side,  south  to  the  Ilauran,  and  to  the  east  until 
it  was  lost  in  the  great  desert.  On  the  northern  margin 
of  that  plain,  but  yet  in  the  far  distance,  lay  the  city  of 
Damascus,  Es  Sham  (the  Holy),  embosomed  in  groves 
and  meadows.  We  made  an  attempt  to  ascertain  the 
height  of  Mount  Hermon  with  our  boiling-water  appa¬ 
ratus,  but  the  thermometer  attached  to  it  was  not  gra- 


APPROACH  TO  DAMASCUS.  483 

duated  sufficiently  low.  The  summit  is  estimated  to  be 
about  9000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  which  is,  per¬ 
haps,  but  little  more  than  the  actual  height.  As  we 
ascended,  we  suffered  from  a  stricture  about  the  temples, 
but  nearer  the  summit,  the  feeling  passed  away,  and  was 
succeeded  by  great  nervous  exhilaration. 

We  found  snow  some  distance  down  the  eastern  slope ; 
and  the  descent  was  gradual ;  but,  from  the  nature  of  the 
road,  very  slow  and  excessively  fatiguing.  As  we 
descended,  the  limestone  rock  disappeared,  giving  place 
to  sand-stone  and  trap ;  and,  lower  down,  serpentine 
occasionally  cropped  out.  At  ’Ain  Ennahad  (Copper 
Fountain),  the  water  was  deeply  impregnated  with  iron ; 
the  dry  bed  of  one  of  its  branches  was  coated  with  the 
yellow  oxide  of  the  same  metal,  and  the  rocks  around 
bore  marks  of  metallic  corrosion.  Near  the  base  of  the 
mountain,  there  was  a  profusion  of  wild  roses. 

The  next  day,  the  road  led  over  a  high,  rolling  plain, 
along  the  flank  of  the  mountain,  which,  ribbed  and  capped 
with  snow,  formed  a  bleak  barrier  to  the  west.  Ahead 
was  a  sea  of  verdure,  which  indicated  the  gardens  around 
Damascus.  There  is  an  unfounded  legend  that  Muham- 
med  refused  to  enter  that  terrestrial  paradise.  Advancing 
into  cultivation,  there  were  patches  of  wheat  and  barley 
on  the  high  ground ;  and  in  the  ravines,  groves  of  olives, 
figs,  apricots,  English  walnuts,  and  some  melons  and 
cucumbers.  The  prevailing  rock,  a  dark  basalt,  with 
metallic  veins,  and  some  quartz.  As  we  proceeded, 
the  number  of  villages  increased,  each  with  its  girdle  of 
vegetation ;  an  oasis  in  the  wide-spread  and  arid  desert. 
Occasionally  the  wind,  sweeping  down  the  gorges  of  the 
mountains,  would  whirl  the  dust  of  the  incinerated  plain 
in  circling  eddies,  high  in  air,  very  much  like  our  water¬ 
spouts  at  sea.  There  were  some  camels  moving  about  in 
search  of  food ;  but  there  were  few  people,  and  no  birds 


484 


BEAUTIFUL  GARDENS. 


or  wild  animals : — a  long,  dreary  ride  over  the  dry  plain, 
under  a  burning  sun.  I  had  brought  the  party  down 
from  the  mountain,  where  the  air  was  too  keen  for  our 
debilitated  condition ; — here  there  was  a  prospect  of  the 
other  extreme,  and  that  the  weather  would  prove  hot 
and  relaxing. 

In  the  heat  of  the  day,  the  whole  plain  seemed  to  un¬ 
dulate,  and  the  ascending  vapour  formed  a  perfect  mirage, 
through  which,  like  light-houses  above  the  sea,  the  mina¬ 
rets  of  the  villages  were  alone  visible.  We  passed  through 
the  populous  village  of  Kattana,  and  a  most  extensive 
olive  orchard — and  with  the  suburb  town  of  Saliliiyeh  on 
a  slope  of  the  mountain  to  the  left,  and  on  the  right  a 
long  line  of  vegetation  indicating  the  course  of  the  river 
until  it  was  lost  in  the  desert ;  and  Damascus,  unseen 
though  near,  before  us ;  we  pressed  forward  as  rapidly  as 
our  strength  and  that  of  our  steeds  permitted.  The  road 
led  through  avenues  of  large  English  walnut  trees,  the 
blossoms  nipped  by  frost.  For  miles  the  way  was  lined 
with  walls  composed  of  sun-dried  blocks  of  mud,  inter¬ 
mixed  with  pebbles,  each  about  three  feet  high,  four  feet 
long,  and  one  foot  thick,  larger,  but  in  every  other  respect 
very  much  like  the  adobes  of  Mexico.  This  climate  is 
said  to  be  very  cold  in  winter.  It  can  only  be  so  by  con¬ 
trast  with  the  heat  of  summer,  for  much  frost  would 
crumble  these  walls  in  a  single  season.  Within  the  lines 
of  walnut  trees  there  were  orchards  of  olives  and  apricots, 
and  patches  of  wheat,  barley,  melons,  and  leguminous 
plants.  The  road  ran  winding  among  these  delicious 
gardens,  with  a  rapid  stream  always  on  one  and  generally 
on  both  sides,  and  to  which,  through  each  garden  there 
iiowed  a  brawling  tributary.  After  the  poetic  Lamartine 
and  the  graphic  Miss  Martineau,  it  would  be  folly  to  at¬ 
tempt  a  description  of  Damascus.  I  therefore  simply 
transcribe  what  fell  under  our  observation. 


DAMASCUS. 


485 


At  4  P.  M.,  we  were  abreast  of  Bab  el  Karrawat  (Gate 
of  the  Aqueduct),  and  turning  to  the  left  along  the  Gre¬ 
cian  aqueduct,  we  came  upon  a  beautiful  green,  level  as  a 
meadow,  through  the  centre  of  which  flows  the  far-famed 
Barada,  formed  by  the  union  of  two  streams  above,  which 
are  supposed  to  have  been  the  Parphar  and  the  Abana, 
rivers  of  Damascus,  mentioned  by  Naaman  the  Syrian. 

On  our  right  was  a  collection  of  domes  and  minarets, 
and  over  the  river  on  a  slightly  ascending  slope,  was  the 
city  proper  of  Damascus.  On  the  high  ground  back  of  it 
was  a  suburb  town,  the  resort  of  wild  fanatics,  with  a 
conspicuous  tomb,  called  the  tomb  of  Nimrod,  on  a  pro¬ 
jecting  promontory.  To  our  surprise  we  found  that 
Damascus  was  situated  at  almost  the  very  base  of  Anti- 
Lebanon,  instead  of  in  the  midst  of  an  extensive  plain. 
Crossing  the  bridge  which  spanned  the  Barada,  we  turned 
to  the  east,  and  skirting  the  northern  wall,  passed  through 
a  cemetery,  many  of  the  tombs  in  which  were  enclosed 
in  wooden  lattice  work  with  bouquets  of  flowers  suspended 
within,  and  many  women  moving  about  among  them. 
We  next  passed  a  house  enclosing  the  tomb  of  a  santon, 
with  numerous  placards  affixed  to  it,  whither  the  afflicted 
or  their  friends  come  to  pray  for  recovery  from  sickness. 
V ery  soon  after  we  encountered  a  fellow-countryman,  and 
our  Vice-Consul,  a  Syrian  Jew.  By  them  we  were  con¬ 
ducted  through  Bab  es  Salem  (Gate  of  Peace),  to  the 
quarters  that  had  been  provided  for  us.  Before  entering 
the  city,  we  were  advised  to  furl  our  flag,  with  the  assu¬ 
rance  that  no  foreign  one  had  ever  been  tolerated  within 
the  walls ;  that  the  British  Consuls  had  been  torn  down 
on  the  first  attempt  to  raise  it,  and  that  the  appearance 
of  ours  would  excite  commotion,  and  perhaps  lead  to 
serious  consequences.  But  we  had  carried  it  to  every 
place  we  had  visited,  and,  determining  to  take  our  chances 
with  it,  we  kept  it  flying.  Many  angry  comments  were,  I 

41  * 


486 


A  TURKISH  CAFE. 


believe,  made  by  the  populace,  but,  as  we  did  not  under¬ 
stand  what  our  toorgeman  was  too  wary  to  interpret,  we 
passed  unmolested. 

Our  quarters  consisted  of  a  bower,  about  eighty  by 
twenty  feet,  a  small  fountain  at  one  end,  and  a  large 
reservoir  at  the  other,  with  a  miniature  canal  between ; 
a  grotto-like  recess,  with  a  divan,  which  was  assigned  to 
the  sailors,  and  a  large  room,  with  a  dais  and  a  jet  d’eau 
in  a  circular  basin  —  called,  by  the  Jews,  “a  sea”  —  for 
ourselves.  The  last  gave  us  the  first  correct  idea  of  the 
“  Brazen  Sea”  of  Solomon. 

On  our  way  around  the  walls,  we  had  seen  many  light- 
coloured  pigeons,  with  fan-tails ;  and  in  this  garden  were 
ravens  of  a  fawn  colour,  with  black  head,  wings,  tail,  and 
feet,  —  which  contradicts  mythology ;  for  we  are  there 
told  that  the  plumage  of  this  bird  was  originally  white, 
but  that  Apollo  turned  it  all  black,  because  it  misinformed 
him  of  the  infidelity  of  Coronis. 

The  windows  of  our  apartments  looked  upon  the 
Barada,  which  flowed  immediately  beneath  them,  be¬ 
tween  two  tiny  cataracts.  On  the  opposite  bank,  was  a 
large  rural  and  crowded  cafe,  perfectly  embowered  in  a 
grove  of  magnificent  plane-trees.  It  was  a  lively  and 
most  attractive  sight.  There  were  Turks,  Greeks,  Arabs, 
and  Syrians,  in  variety  of  costume,  supinely  sipping 
coffee  or  smoking,  in  groups  or  apart,  or  attending  to  the 
recital  of  a  tale ;  and  on  one  side  a  crowd  was  gathered, 
listening  to  a  musician,  and  looking  upon  the  feats  of  a 
tight-rope  dancer,  whose  figure  was  at  times  half  concealed 
from  us  by  the  intervening  branches.  As  the  day  waned, 
numerous  little  coloured  lamps,  suspended  in  every  direc¬ 
tion  about  the  trees,  were  lighted  up,  which  shone  beauti¬ 
fully  amid  the  dark  green  foliage. 

This  scene  so  excited  our  curiosity,  from  the  idea  it 

c/  y 

conveyed  of  a  social  hilarity  which  we  had  never  before 


THE  BAZAARS. 


487 


witnessed  in  our  intercourse  among  Asiatics,  that,  wearied 
as  we  were,  we  determined  to  sally  forth.  On  our  way, 
through  the  dark,  narrow,  and  crooked  streets,  we  fre¬ 
quently  stumbled  over  sleeping  dogs.  These  animals 
were  by  no  means  vicious,  but  would  howl  when  trodden 
upon,  and  lazily  get  out  of  the  way.  They  were  more 
numerous  than  in  Constantinople ;  and  we  were  told  that 
they  perform  the  office  of  scavengers,  and  are,  moreover, 
supported  by  charitable  contribution. 

While  making  our  way  through  a  crowded  bazaar,  a 
Turk,  in  passing,  elevated  his  hands  above  his  head. 
We  did  not  at  the  time  understand  it,  but  learned  after¬ 
wards,  that  formerly  it  was  an  enforced  custom  for  Chris¬ 
tians  to  keep  the  centre  of  the  street,  which  is  nothing 
more  than  a  gutter,  while  the  Muslims  passed  along  the 
elevated  side-walk.  The  Turk,  on  this  occasion,  not 
being  so  tall  as  the  member  of  our  party  next  to  him,  his 
gesture  was  intended  as  a  kind  of  assertion  of  superiority. 

The  bazaars  were  covered  in,  and  the  shops  in  those 
appropriated  to  merchandise  were  closed ;  but  there  were 
a  great  many  cafes,  not  confined  to  houses,  but  each  one 
embracing  a  considerable  space  of  the  street  before  it. 
There  were  lines  drawn  across,  some  ten  feet  above  the 
pavement,  to  which  were  suspended  hundreds  of  little 
lamps,  under  which,  on  broad  benches  and  low  stools, 
squatted  and  sat,  those  visitors  who  preferred  the  sensual 
indulgence  of  coffee  and  the  chibouque ;  while  those 
whose  tastes  were  more  intellectual,  listened  silently 
within,  as  one  read  or  related  some  tale  of  the  East. 
The  scene  brought  the  days  of  our  boyhood  back,  and  we 
remembered  the  Arabian  Nights,  —  Haroun  al  Raschid, 
and  his  excursions  in  disguise. 

Early  the  next  morning,  went  to  a  bath,  passing  on 
the  way  the  court  of  the  great  mosque,  once  the  Christian 
church  of  St.  John.  Many  of  the  streets  were  so  narrow. 


488 


A  BATH  AT  DAMASCUS. 


that  the  projecting  balconies  often  touched  the  walls  of 
the  houses  opposite.  The  bath  was  very  much  like  those 
of  Constantinople,  but  more  elaborate  in  its  decorations, 
and  the  process  of  ablution  was  more  prolonged  and 
complex.  The  building  was  ornamented  in  the  Chinese 
style.  The  interior  of  the  dome-roof  was  painted  sky- 
blue,  and  the  walls  were  in  fresco,  of  Chinese  scenery. 
There  were  pagodas  six  stories  high,  with  grotesque  orna¬ 
ments  on  the  top,  and  trees  and  flowers  nearly  as  high  as 
the  pagodas.  There  were  elevated  divans  around  the 
rotunda,  and  two  recesses,  fitted  in  like  manner,  suffi¬ 
ciently  large  to  accommodate  about  sixty  people.  These 
recesses  led  off  to  apartments  with  dome-roofs,  studded 
with  circular  glass-lights,  and  having  marble  floors  and 
fountains,  and  alabaster  reservoirs.  We  were  led  into 
one  upon  wooden  clogs,  three  or  four  inches  high, — for 
the  floors  were  heated  from  beneath,  —  and  made  to  sit 
down  by  one  of  the  fountains  which  supplied  hot  and 
cold  water  in  unlimited  profusion,  and  the  whole  apart¬ 
ment  was  filled  with  a  hot  and  almost  stifling  vapour. 
After  being  parboiled,  the  scarf-skin  of  the  whole  body  was 
scraped  off  with  horse-hair  gloves,  by  yellow  imps  with 
shaven  crowns,  nearly  as  naked  as  ourselves.  We  were 
afterwards  conducted  into  a  room  of  yet  higher  tempera¬ 
ture,  where  we  were  boiled  a  little  more,  lathered,  and 
thoroughly  washed  off.  We  were  then  enveloped  in  nap¬ 
kins,  a  capacious  turban  was  wreathed  around  our  heads, 
and,  almost  exhausted  and  panting  for  a  less  rarefied 
air,  were  slowly  supported  to  the  outer  room,  where  we 
reclined  upon  luxurious  couches,  and,  at  will,  sipped 
coffee  or  sherbet,  or  smoked  the  aromatic  chibouque. 

Friday,  June  23.  A  close,  warm  day,  but  the  air  was 
much  refreshed  by  the  play  of  the  fountains,  which 
sounded  like  gentle  rain,  and  mingling  with  the  gush  of 
the  river,  lulled  us  to  sleep  at  night. 


POPULATION  OF  DAMASCUS.  489 

In  the  course  of  the  day  we  visited  the  bazaars,  which 
are  larger,  loftier,  and  cleaner;  but  the  shops,  even  in 
Persian  goods,  were  not  so  well  supplied  as  those  of  Con¬ 
stantinople.  The  silk  for  this  market  is  brought  from 
the  Anti-Lebanon,  and  is  now  about  110,000  lbs.  per 
annum,  one-half  of  the  amount  brought  in  formerly.  The 
demand,  which  regulates  the  supply,  has  decreased,  in  con¬ 
sequence  of  the  general  introduction  of  cotton  goods, 
mostly  from  England.  There  were  a  great  many  pieces 
of  muslin  with  American  stamps,  but  they  were  the  coun¬ 
terfeits  of  English  manufacturers.  One  of  the  khans  was 
finer  than  any  we  had  seen  in  Constantinople. 

The  population  of  Damascus  was  estimated  by  Dr. 
Mashaka,  an  intelligent  Syrian  and  member  of  the  Asiatic 
Historical  Society  of  Beirut,  at  115,000,  and  he  thinks  it 
is  upon  the  increase.  This  increase,  however,  is  any¬ 
thing  but  an  evidence  of  the  prosperity  of  the  country, 
for  he  attributes  it  to  the  desertion  of  the  villages,  caused 
by  the  frequent  forays  of  the  wandering  Bedawin.  He 
considers  that  the  deaths  are  fewer  even  with  the  in¬ 
creased  population,  which  he  ascribes  to  the  more  fre¬ 
quent  inoculation  of  children : — for  the  small-pox  has  been 
at  times  a  devastating  scourge. 

In  the  evening  we  dined  with  Dr.  Paulding,  who  with 
his  brother-in-law,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Barnet,  belong  to  the 
American  Evangelical  Mission  in  Syria.  We  were  hand¬ 
somely  entertained,  and  in  many  other  respects  indebted 
to  their  kindness.  In  this  land  of  mental  indolence  and 
sensual  enjoyment,  it  was  gratifying  to  converse  with  our 
countrymen,  and  to  look  upon  books,  maps,  and  other 
marks  of  western  civilization.  We  heard  to-day  a  singu¬ 
lar  but  well  authenticated  history  of  a  ruling  family, 
which  is  indicative  alike  of  the  political  features  and  the 
peculiar  manners  of  the  country. 

Said  Jumblat  was  the  wealthiest  and  most  powerful  of 


490 


A  FAMILY  HISTORY. 


the  princes  of  Lebanon.  His  younger  brother,  the  Emir 
Beschir,  since  so  well  known  in  Syrian  history,  was  aspir¬ 
ing  and  unprincipled,  and  in  order  to  form  a  party  of  his 
own,  professed  to  be  a  convert  to  Christianity,  and  by 
degrees  won  over  the  Maronites.  As  soon  as  he  found 
himself  sufficiently  strong  he  made  war  upon  his  brother, 
and  defeating  him  in  a  pitched  battle,  drove  him  to  the 
Anti-Lebanon,  where  the  fugitive  was  received  by  one  of 
the  mountain  chiefs.  But  the  treacherous  host,  bribed 
by  the  Emir,  decoyed  his  guest  to  Damascus,  where  he 
was  put  to  death.  The  widow  of  Said  Jumblat  fled  to 
the  mountains  of  Hauran,  with  her  three  sons,  but  some 
years  after  being  sorely  pinched  by  want,  she  sent  them 
to  implore  the  mercy  of  their  uncle.  They  suddenly  and 
unannounced  appeared  before  the  Emir,  and  prostrating 
themselves  in  the  humblest  manner,  quietly  sat  down 
upon  the  divan.  Their  uncle,  not  recognising  them,  de¬ 
manded  their  business,  when  the  eldest  replied  by  asking 
if  a  child  were  responsible  for  the  debts  of  a  parent  in¬ 
curred  before  it  was  of  age.  The  Emir  said,  certainly  not. 
“  Then,”  continued  the  eldest,  (C  my  brothers  and  myself 
are  not  answerable  for  the  acts  of  our  father,”  and 
divulged  who  they  were.  Their  uncle,  moved  by  their 
appeal,  received  them  into  favour,  and  gave  them  back 
part  of  their  paternal  inheritance.  After  testing  the 
character  and  qualifications  of  the  eldest,  he  procured 
him  the  commission  of  colonel  in  the  Egyptian  army. 
When  Syria  reverted  to  the  dominion  of  the  Porte,  the 
Emir  Beschir  was  deposed,  and,  with  his  family,  impri¬ 
soned  in  Constantinople ;  while  his  nephew,  the  eldest 
son  of  the  murdered  brother,  was  invested  with  the  patri¬ 
monial  estates  of  both  families.  But  the  two  younger 
brothers  were  vicious  and  unprincipled ;  and,  combining 
together,  drove  the  elder  away,  and  seized  upon  all  his 
property.  They  had  two  cousins,  the  friends  of  that 


ANTIQUITY  OF  DAMASCUS. 


491 


brother  of  whom  they  were  jealous  and  fearful.  Coming 
unexpectedly,  one  day,  to  the  house  of  their  kinsmen, 
they  asked  for  a  draught  of  water,  but  declined  the  invi¬ 
tation  to  enter.  One  of  the  cousins  brought  the  water, 
and  the  other,  equally  unsuspecting,  came  forth  to  speak 
to  them,  when,  without  the  slightest  warning,  they  were 
both  shot  down.  The  second  brother  has  since  driven 
the  younger  one  away,  and  offers  100,000  piastres  for 
his  head.  This,  better  than  a  thousand  comments,  will 
give  an  idea  of  the  insecurity  of  life  and  property  in  this 
region. 

In  the  cool  of  the  evening,  we  went  without  the  walls. 
Passing  through  the  east  gate,  consisting  of  a  large  central 
one,  and  two  side  ones  now  blocked  up,  we  had,  from 
without,  a  fine  view  of  the  city  and  its  suburbs. 

The  walls  are  not  strong,  the  towers  having  been 
levelled  by  Ibrahim  Pasha,  and  the  materials  used  in  the 
construction  of  a  large  caserne,  or  infantry  barracks, 
which,  a  monument  of  Turkish  indolence,  is  unroofed  and 
falling  rapidly  to  decay.  We  saw  the  old  Roman  founda¬ 
tions  of  the  walls,  the  ancient  arches,  the  fosse,  and  evi¬ 
dences  of  a  wall  of  cement  between  the  outer  and  the 
inner  one.  Near  the  Jerusalem  gate,  we  were  shown  the 
place  where  St.  Paul  was  let  down  in  a  basket,  and,  on 
the  road  beyond,  the  spot  of  his  conversion ;  and,  on  our 
return,  we  passed  through  “the  street  which  is  called 
Straight.” 

This  country  is  the  cradle  of  the  human  race ;  and  Da¬ 
mascus  is  certainly  one  of  the  oldest  cities  in  the  world. 
Its  name  is  said  to  imply  “  the  blood  of  the  righteous 
derived,  it  is  supposed,  from  the  death  of  Abel.  Eleazar, 
the  steward  of  Abraham,  was  from  Damascus :  and  about 
half  an  hour  beyond  it,  is  Hobah  of  the  Old  Testament, 
whither  the  patriarch  followed,  to  rescue  Lot  from  his 
captors. 


492 


JEWISH  DWELLINGS. 


The  history  of  this  city  teems  with  vicissitudes.  Per¬ 
sians,  Greeks,  Romans,  and  Saracens,  have  been  here ; 
and  there  are  ruins,  and  vestiges  of  ruins,  which  would 
delight  an  antiquarian. 

On  Saturday,  the  Jewish  Sabbath,  we  were  taken  to 
some  houses  of  wealthy  Jews.  The  exteriors  of  the 
dwellings  were  unpretending  and  semi-dilapitated ;  and 
the  entrances  were  uncleanly,  and,  in  some  instances, 
almost  filthy.  A  narrow,  crooked  way  led  to  an  open 
court,  paved  with  marble,  with  a  marble  fountain  and 
shrubs  and  flowering  plants  in  the  centre,  and  lofty,  spa¬ 
cious,  and  elaborately-decorated  rooms  and  alcoves  around 
it.  At  the  farther  end  of  each  room,  was  the  elevated 
dais,  with  divans  of  costliest  silk  cushions  on  the  three 
sides,  and  Persian  carpets  between  them.  From  the  dais 
to  the  opposite  end  of  the  room,  was  a  floor  of  tessellated 
marble,  with  an  overflowing  reservoir,  or  “  sea,”  supplied 
by  a  jet  d’eau.  The  door  and  windows  opened  upon  the 
court;  and  the  walls,  wainscoting,  door  and  window- 
frames,  and  the  lofty  ceiling,  were  of  mosaic,  of  different 
kinds  of  costly  wood,  with  rich  gilt  edgings  and  arabesque 
figures. 

There  were  neither  tables  nor  chairs;  and,  in  the 
sleeping  apartments,  the  beds  consisted  of  thick  cushions 
piled  upon  each  other.  The  men  were  dressed  in  black 
turbans  and  gaberdines ;  the  wives  and  daughters,  in 
narrow-skirted  gowns,  usually  of  English  printed  muslin ; 
and  a  silk  boddice,  generally  yellow,  fitting  closely  to  the 
form — except  that,  opening  and  diverging  in  front,  they 
displayed  a  thin,  white  gauze  across  the  breast ;  which, 
in  consequence  of  the  pressure  beneath,  protruded  forth 
and  presented  a  most  disgusting  appearance.  The  mar¬ 
ried  women  sedulously  concealed  their  own,  but  wore  a 
quantity  of  artificial  hair,  confined  by  a  net-work  cap, 
ornamented  with  gold  coins,  pearls,  and  precious  stones. 


RULER  OF  THE  DESERT. 


493 


The  unmarried  wore  their  own  hair,  uncovered  and  una¬ 
dorned.  The  eye-brows  were  shaved ;  and  over  each  eye 
was  a  black,  curved  line,  extending  from  the  outer  corner 
and  meeting  in  the  centre,  at  the  bridge  of  the  nose. 
The  lower  eye-lid,  beneath  the  lash,  was  also  blackened, 
and  gave  to  the  whole  countenance  a  fierce  and  repulsive 
aspect,  and  the  nails  were  stained  with  henna.  They 
wore  white  stockings  and  loose,  thin,  yellow,  morocco 
slippers,  which,  when  they  left  the  dais,  were  thrust  into 
wooden  clogs,  and  in  which  they  moved  about  with  per¬ 
fect  ease.  These  clogs  were  of  wood,  inlaid  with  pearl, 
consisting  of  one  horizontal  piece,  shaped  like  the  sole  of 
a  shoe,  supported  on  two  upright  ones,  eight  inches  high. 
They  slipped  their  feet  into  them  without  stooping, 
merely  half  turning  round  in  the  evolution;  and  they 
always  left  them  at  the  foot  of  the  dais  when  they  came 
upon  it.  Their  appearance  and  their  movements  were 
unbecoming  and  ungraceful. 

In  the  evening,  the  Great  Sheikh  of  the  ’Anazeh  tribe 
(the  ruler  of  the  desert)  came  to  see  us ;  and,  also,  the 
Sherif  of  Damascus.  The  former  is  a  fine,  mild-looking 
man ;  but  his  character  belies  the  expression  of  his  fea¬ 
tures,  for  he  was  recently  concerned  in  an  outrage  upon 
some  English  travellers.  He  is  the  Sheikh  with  whom 
those  who  wish  to  visit  the  ruins  of  Palmyra,  or  cross  the 
great  desert,  must  make  their  contract. 

The  Sherif  was  a  venerable-looking  old  man,  with  a 
magnificent  turban,  of  a  fine,  white  material,  intertwined 
with  gold  thread.  He  came  in  imposing  state,  with 
numerous  attendants ;  while  the  powerful  sheikh,  who 
holds  life  and  death  at  his  disposal,  announced  himself. 

Sunday,  June  25.  The  weather  oppressively  hot,  and 
many  complaining ;  which  determined  me  to  remain  no 
longer  in  the  city,  but  to  lead  the  party  again  across  the 
mountains. 

42 


/ 


494 


LEAVE  DAMASCUS. 


Starting  a  little  before  sunset;  and  passing  through  the 
suburb  and  a  gorge  in  the  hills,  we  had,  from  an  elevation 
just  above  where  the  Barada  bursts  through  the  moun¬ 
tain,  a  full  view  of  the  city  and  the  surrounding  country. 
There  were  the  mountains,  the  desert,  and  the  forest  of 
gardens ;  the  last  intermingled  with  walls,  and  domes, 
and  minarets,  and  untold  roofs,  and  the  tops  of  trees,  and 
the  glittering  sheen  of  running  water,  all  forming  a  scene 
of  beauty  unparalleled  and  indescribable.  Damascus, 
with  its  gardens,  is  a  city  in  a  grove ;  and  conveys  the 
idea  of  art  seated  in  the  lap  of  nature, — an  island  of  archi¬ 
tecture  in  the  midst  of  a  sea  of  verdure.  A  little  after  7 
P.  M.,  we  encamped,  for  the  night,  by  the  village  of  Da- 
mur,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Barada. 

On  the  26  th  our  course  led  along  the  right  bank  of  the 
river,  now  an  impetuous  stream,  winding  frequently,  with 
many  graceful  curves  from  side  to  side  of  a  narrow  and 
luxuriant  valley.  The  country  was  highly  cultivated, 
with  barley,  dhoura,  the  walnut  (which  is  an  article  of 
food),  the  olive,  fig,  apricot,  and  mulberry,  the  pea,  and 
the  castor  bean.  As  we  advanced,  the  olive  was  suc¬ 
ceeded  by  the  mulberry  and  the  vine.  The  rocks  were 
limestone,  conglomerate,  quartz,  and  concretions,  and  in 
one  place  there  were  scattered  fragments  of  marble 
columns  on  the  plain;  and  just  below  a  Boman  bridge  a 
thick  stratum  of  incrustations  of  roots  of  trees  and  other 
vegetable  matter.  The  prevailing  flowers  were  the  wild 
white  rose ;  a  vine  resembling  the  morning-glory,  and  a 
beautiful  pink  flower.  It  is  strange  that  with  a  climate 
so  similar  to  this,  South  America  does  not  produce  the 
white  rose.  High  up  on  the  eastern  bank,  over  the  bridge, 
are  tombs  excavated  in  the  rock,  and  the  ruins  of  a 
Roman  aqueduct,  and  a  tablet  over  it  with  an  inscription 
in  Roman  characters. 

Just  before  opening  the  plain  of  Zebdany,  the  Barada 


II 


— 


— 


J  -  r  • 


-.1  ■  '  -  if; 


* 

c  s 

■  •;  ■■ 


-  ■  .  . 


■  V"'  '  ’  •  ■  ■  :  ‘ 


-  '  ■> 

' 

. 


i; , ’  .. . '  -  .  '/  .  •' 


, 

,:j  i 

IV  '' 


FRUITFUL  GARDENS. 


495 


turns  suddenly  from  west  to  south  in  its  course,  and  is 
joined  by  a  smaller  but  an  impetuous  stream  from  the 
north,  and  the  two  united  leap  a  cataract  of  twenty, 
and  thence  rush  foaming  down  a  cascade  of  thirty  feet. 
Where  the  plain  of  Zebdany  opens,  the  two  ranges  of 
mountains  nearly  meet,  leaving  but  a  passage  to  the 
great  plain. 

The  road,  heretofore,  had  been  winding  within  a  nar¬ 
row  valley,  with  mountains  on  each  side,  and  the  river 
rushing  and  tumbling  through  ;  and  wherever  joined  by 
a  tributary  there  was  a  village,  and  around  each,  in  pro¬ 
portion  to  the  size  of  the  stream,  were  irrigated  fields  and 
luxuriant  gardens.  But,  soon  after  entering  the  wide 
plain,  the  vegetation  began  to  spread  from  the  centre, 
where  ran  the  river,  towards  the  brown  and  parched 
mountains,  which,  with  their  sharp  and  rugged  outlines, 
bounded  the  horizon  on  either  side. 

As  we  approached  the  village  of  Zebdany,  the  winding 
road  was  shaded  by  the  willow,  and  confined  between 
hedges  of  the  wild  rose  and  a  fragrant  but  unknown 
shrub.  We  camped  early  just  without  the  village,  which 
is  embosomed  amid  luxuriant  gardens  enclosed  by  wattled 
hedges  with  rude  gates,  and  beautiful,  shaded  walks  be¬ 
tween.  The  enclosures,  like  those  of  Damascus,  were  a 
combination  of  patches  of  grain,  orchards,  and  gardens, 
with  a  running  stream  through  each.  Among  the  fruit 
trees  we  gladly  recognized  the  apple  and  the  quince.  The 
apples  are  celebrated  in  the  market  of  Damascus. 

Among  these  gardens,  in  the  opinion  of  some  writers, 
was  the  paradise  of  our  first  parents ;  and  tradition  deno¬ 
minates  a  spot  within  it  the  tomb  of  Adam. 

In  the  evening,  visited  a  holy  spring  above  the  town. 
It  was  a  rill  of  water  trickling  from  the  hill-side  and  fall¬ 
ing  into  a  rude  stone  trough,  with  a  banner  on  each  side, 
containing  an  inscription  from  the  Koran,  praying  God  to 


l 


496 


TURKISH  INEBRIETY. 


bless  all  Muslims  who  drank  at  that  sacred  fountain. 
Upon  the  left  was  a  lamp  in  a  recess,  which  is  lighted 
after  nightfall.  We  found  there  a  poor  old  Christian 
woman  from  Mesopotamia  beyond  the  Euphrates.  She 
had  accompanied  her  husband  on  a  pilgrimage  to  Jerusa¬ 
lem,  where  he  died,  and  she  had  only  been  able  to  get 
thus  far  towards  her  native  country.  While  conversing 
with  her,  a  proud  Kurd,  one  of  the  princes  of  the  district, 
rode  up,  and  made  her  stop  filling  her  jar  and  step  aside 
for  his  horse  to  drink.  It  was  a  splendid  cliesnut  mare, 
for  which,  he  told  us,  he  had  refused  12,000  piastres.  A 
few  moments  after  him,  a  fellah  came  up,  bearing  some¬ 
thing  in  his  bosom.  The  prince  demanded  to  see  what  it 
was,  and  the  fellah  exhibited  a  quantity  of  houma  or  pea 
of  the  country  —  of  which  the  former,  without  leave  or 
apology,  took  as  much  as  he  wanted. 

We  had  reason  to  believe  that  inebriety  prevailed 
among  the  Turks  in  Constantinople,  but  while  in  Syria 
saw  only  one  intoxicated  Arab  —  our  muleteer  on  the 
present  journey  —  who  was  rarely  sober.  On  reaching 
Zebdany,  he  had  deceived  me  about  the  best  camping- 
place,  and  on  my  return  from  the  fountain,  I  said  to  him, 
threateningly,  as  he  laid  beneath  a  tree,  “  I  have  a  great 
mind  to  pour  a  pint  of  arrack  down  your  throat  for  tell¬ 
ing  me  an  untruth when  springing  up,  he  exclaimed, 
“  do,  Howajeh,  and  I  will  kiss  your  feet !” 

Tuesday,  June  27.  The  nature  of  the  country  before 
us  rendered  a  long  ride  necessary  to-day.  We  therefore 
rose  at  3.45  A.  M.,  the  moon  just  peering  over  the  eastern 
mountains,  and  started  at  4.50,  just  as  the  first  beams  of 
the  sun  tinged  the  snowy  peak  of  Ilermon.  At  early 
daylight  a  great  many  goats  were  driven  out  to  pasture, 
by  herdsmen  dressed  in  goat-skin  jackets.  We  soon 
passed  a  holy  well,  enclosed,  on  the  left ;  with  sixteen 
banners,  bearing  inscriptions,  around  it,  and  one  sus- 


PLAIN  OF  BUK’AH. 


497 


pended  from  an  adjoining  tree ;  the  road  running  parallel 
with  the  brawling  stream ; — terraced  gardens  below,  on 
one  hand,  and  barren  mountains  above  us  on  the  other ; 
with  conglomerate  rock  cropping  out,  and  huge  boulders 
of  it  on  the  mountain-side  and  in  the  valley. 

Passing  a  small  encampment  of  black  tents,  we  ascended 
a  hill-side,  and  skirted  along  a  beautiful  ravine,  with  a 
village  at  its  head,  surrounded  by  orchards.  Here  we 
entered  upon  an  elevated  plateau,  three-fourths  of  a  mile 
wide  and  five  miles  long,  narrowing  to  the  north,  where 
a  depression  in  the  ridge  leads  to  the  great  plain  of 
Bilk’ ah.  We  then  came  upon  a  narrow,  but  highly  cul¬ 
tivated  valley,  with  a  stream  running  through  it.  There 
were  quantities  of  grain  just  reaped,  and  much  of  it  ready 
for  the  sickle.  A  village,  through  which  we  passed,  was  em¬ 
bowered  in  the  luxuriant  foliage  of  the  mulberry  and  the 
walnut.  The  houses  were  mud-plastered,  stone  huts;  the 
people  uncleanly  in  their  persons  and  attire, — the  women 
and  children  particularly  so.  The  latter  were  mostly 
employed  in  bearing  bundles  of  mulberry  twigs,  with  the 
leaves  on,  to  feed  the  silk-worms  in  their  dwelling-houses. 

Until  we  came  upon  this  valley,  the  prevailing  rock 
was  a  coarse  conglomerate ;  but  here,  the  blue  limestone, 
which  yesterday  dipped,  again  cropped  out,  and  was  suc¬ 
ceeded  by  white  calcareous  limestone,  with  some  quartz. 

The  stream  widened,  and  increased  in  velocity,  as  we 
descended,  and  the  strata  of  the  cliffs  above  us  were 
nearly  at  right  angles  to  each  other,  —  some  horizontal, 
others  perpendicular,  and  a  rock  upon  the  summit  looked 
like  a  fortification  in  ruins.  The  willow,  which  early  in 
the  morning  was  occasional,  became  afterwards  frequent ; 
and  on  the  brink  of  the  stream  were  plane-trees,  large  in 
girth,  but  stunted  and  gnarled.  Below  them  were  wild 
roses,  the  yellow  honeysuckle,  and  other  flowers :  we 
here  saw  a  beautiful  bird,  resembling  the  oriole. 

42  *  2  g 


498 


B  A’ALBEK. 


Passing  by  several  villages,  and  a  deep  ravine  with 
large  blocks  of  conglomerate  in  its  bed,  we  rode  over  the 
rolling,  but  parched  and  dreary  plain  of  Buk’ali,  with 
Ghebel  Siinnin,  crowned  with  snow,  on  our  left.  The 
Arabs  hold  that  the  ark  rested  on  Sunnin  after  the  flood, 
and  that  Noah  lived,  and  was  buried,  in  this  plain.  Of 
the  last,  which  was  part  of  the  Coelosyria  of  the  Romans, 
we  know  that  it  was  the  high  road  along  which  Egyptian, 
Syrian,  and  Roman  hosts  have  passed,  in  devastating 
progress. 

Early  in  the  afternoon,  we  came  in  sight  of  the  ruins  of 
Heliopolis,  or  the  Great  Temple  of  the  Sun,  at  Baalbek. 
While  our  eyes  were  riveted  upon  the  colossal  mass  of 
architecture,  we  were  startled  by  a  reverberating  sound, 
the  echo  of  our  horses’  tread,  as  if  there  were  caverns  or 
excavations  beneath.  We  camped  without  the  village, 
on  the  banks  of  the  small,  but  rapid  and  clear  stream, 
dignified  with  the  name  of  the  66  river  of  Baalbek.” 

Thoroughly  conscious  of  inability  to  convey  an  idea  of 
these  ruins,  even  if  our  exhausted  condition  had  permitted 
sufficient  notes  to  have  been  taken  for  the  purpose,  and 
as  we  possess  an  excellent  sketch  of  them,  taken  by  Mr. 
Aulick,  I  will  select,  from  the  description  of  Lamartine, 
some  passages  which  are  not  exaggerated,  and  correspond 
with  our  own  observation. 

After  describing  a  small  octagonal  temple,  with  a  dome- 
roof,  supported  on  granite  columns,  which  is  about  half  a 
mile  distant  from  the  great  temple,  he  says  of  the  last : — 
u  Mingled  in  confusion  around  it  were  shafts  of  columns, 
sculptured  capitals,  architraves,  cornices,  entablatures, 
and  pedestals.  Beyond,  rose  the  hill  of  Baalbek,  a  plat¬ 
form  1000  feet  long  and  700  feet  broad,  built  entirely  by 
the  hands  of  men,  of  hewn  stones,  some  of  which  are  from 
fifty  to  sixty  feet  long,  and  fifteen  to  sixteen  high,  and 
the  greatest  part  from  fifteen  to  thirty  above  the  ground. 


TEMPLE  OF  THE  SUN. 


499 


Three  pieces  of  stone  give  a  horizontal  line  of  180  feet, 
and  near  4000  feet  of  superficies.  On  this  prodigious  plat¬ 
form  the  temple  stood;  and  the  six  gigantic  columns, 
bearing  majestically  their  rich  and  colossal  entablature, 
soared  above  the  scene. 

“We  skirted  one  of  the  sides  of  this  hill  of  ruins,  on 
which  rose  a  multitude  of  graceful  columns  of  a  smaller 
temple.  There  were  some  having  their  capitals  un¬ 
touched  and  their  cornices  richly  sculptured ;  and  others 
were  leaning,  entire,  against  the  walls  which  sustained 
them.  But  the  greatest  number  were  scattered  in  im¬ 
mense  heaps  of  marble  or  stone  upon  the  slopes  of  the 
hill,  in  the  deep  ditches  which  surround  it,  and  even  in 
the  bed  of  the  river  flowing  at  its  foot.  There  were  pro¬ 
digious  walls,  built  of  enormous  stones,  and  almost  all 
bearing  traces  of  sculpture ;  the  relics  of  another  era, 
which  were  made  use  of  at  the  remote  epoch  when  they 
reared  the  temples  which  are  now  in  ruins.  From  the 
summit  of  the  breach,  all  around,  were  seen  marble  door¬ 
ways  of  a  prodigious  height  and  breadth ;  windows  or 
niches  bordered  with  most  admirable  sculpture,  arches, 
pieces  of  cornices,  entablatures  and  capitals.  We  were 
still  separated  from  the  second  scene  of  the  ruins  by  the 
interior  buildings,  which  intercepted  the  view  of  the  tem¬ 
ples.  According  to  all  appearance,  we  were  but  in  the 
abodes  of  the  priests,  or  on  the  sites  of  some  chapels,  con¬ 
secrated  to  unknown  peculiar  rites.  We  cleared  these 
monumental  constructions,  much  more  richly  worked 
than  the  outer  wall,  and  the  second  scene  of  the  ruins  was 
before  our  eyes.  Much  wider  and  longer,  more  decorated 
still  than  the  one  we  had  left,  it  presented  an  immense 
platform,  in  the  form  of  an  oblong  square,  the  level  being 
often  broken  by  the  remains  of  a  raised  pavement,  which 
appeared  to  have  belonged  to  temples  utterly  destroyed. 
All  around  this  platform  extended  a  series  of  chapels, 


500 


MAGNIFICENT  RUINS. 


decorated  with  niches  admirably  sculptured,  with  friezes, 
cornices,  and  the  most  finished  workmanship.  The  only 
failing,  is  a  superabundant  richness ;  the  stone  is  crushed 
beneath  its  own  weight  of  luxury.  Eight  or  ten  of  these 
chapels  still  remain  almost  uninjured,  and  they  seem  to 
have  always  existed  thus  open  to  the  square  they  are 
built  around,  for  the  mysteries  of  the  worship  of  Ba’al 
were  doubtless  celebrated  in  the  open  air. 

“We  then  proceeded  south,  where  the  six  gigantic 
columns  reared  their  heads  above  the  ruins.  They  are 
each  seven  feet  in  diameter  and  more  than  seventy 
high ;  they  are  composed  of  only  two  or  three  blocks,  so 
perfectly  joined  together  that  it  is  scarcely  possible  to 
distinguish  the  lines  of  j  unction ;  their  material  is  a 
stone  of  a  colour  between  marble  and  sand-stone.  These 
columns  were  either  the  remains  of  an  avenue,  or  of  an 
exterior  decoration  of  the  temple. 

“  Opposite,  on  the  south,  was  the  smaller  temple,  on 
the  edge  of  the  platform,  about  forty  paces  distant.  It  is 
of  inferior  proportions  to  that  which  the  six  colossal 
columns  recall.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  portico,  sustained 
by  columns  of  the  Corinthian  order,  each  of  them  being 
five  feet  in  diameter  and  forty-five  feet  in  shaft,  and  com¬ 
posed  of  three  cemented  blocks.  They  are  nine  feet 
distant  from  each  other,  and  the  same  space  from  the 
wall  of  the  temple.  A  rich  architrave  and  a  beautifully 
sculptured  cornice  run  around  their  capitals.  The  roof 
of  this  peristyle  is  formed  of  large  blocks  of  stone,  cut  by 
the  chisel  into  concave  hollows,  in  each  of  which  is  repre¬ 
sented  the  figure  of  a  god,  a  goddess,  or  a  hero.  Some  of 
these  blocks  had  fallen ;  they  were  sixteen  feet  wide  and 
nearly  five  feet  thick.  Not  far  from  the  entrance  of  the 
temple  were  large  openings  and  subterranean  stairs,  which 
led  to  lower  constructions,  the  use  of  which  cannot  be 
assigned  with  certainty.  They  seemed  to  extend  through 


- 


* 


.  .  ,  I 


■ 

. 

I 

■ 


* 


. 

. 


•  -  -  kp 

XI 


fi  '  ' 


SICKNESS  THREATENED.  501 

the  whole  space  of  the  hill.  The  pedestals  of  this  group 
of  monuments  are  constructed  of  stones  of  prodigious 
dimensions.  They  are  of  hewn  granite,  some  of  them 
fifty-six  feet  long,  fifteen  or  sixteen  broad,  and  of  an 
unknown  thickness,  and  are  raised  one  upon  the  other, 
twenty  or  thirty  feet  above  the  ground.  They  are  evi¬ 
dently  of  a  different  date  from  the  temple,  and  belong  to 
an  unknown  era ;  and  have,  probably,  borne  a  variety  of 
temples,  sacred  to  a  successive  variety  of  creeds.  There 
are  arched  passages,  about  thirty  feet  high,  beneath  the 
platform,  running  its  whole  length  and  breadth. 

u  The  other  ancient  edifices  of  Baalbek,  scattered 
before  us  on  the  plain,  had  no  power  to  interest  us  after 
what  we  had  just  inspected.  We  threw  a  superficial 
glance,  as  we  passed,  upon  temples  which  would  be  con¬ 
sidered  wonders  at  Rome,  but  which  are  here  like  the 
works  of  dwarfs.  One  of  them  had  served  as  a  church, 
and  the  Christian  symbols  still  remain.  It  is  now  unco¬ 
vered  and  in  ruins.  The  Arabs  despoil  it  as  they  have 
occasion  for  a  stone  to  support  their  roofs,  or  of  a  trough 
to  water  their  camels.” 

Wednesday,  June  28.  Weather,  warm  and  calm; — at 
mid-day,  the  heat  oppressive,  many  of  the  party  com¬ 
plaining,  and  some  seriously  indisposed.  I  determined, 
therefore,  to  forego  a  thorough  examination  of  the  ruins ; 
and,  abandoning  the  contemplated  journey  to  the  cedars 
of  Lebanon,  to  hasten,  with  all  practicable  speed,  to 
Beirut,  in  the  hope  of  meeting  our  ship.  We  found  here 
a  very  beautiful  species  of  the  pink  lark-spur,  and  also  a 
pale,  yellow  honeysuckle,  a  native  of  the  south  of  Europe, 
and  naturalized  as  far  north  as  Scotland,  but  which  has 
not,  before,  been  recognised  so  far  to  the  East. 

At  3.45  P.  M.,  started,  and  passed  a  quarry  where  a 
huge  block  of  granite  lay  ready,  as  it  appeared,  for  trans¬ 
portation.  We  only  stopped  a  sufficient  time  to  measure 


502 


SELF-REPROACII. 


it.  It  proved  longer  than  any  in  the  ruins  of  the  temple. 
An  intelligent  gentleman,  whom  we  afterwards  met, 
informed  us  that,  on  digging  down,  he  discovered  that  its 
bottom  was  not  detached  from  the  rock  beneath  it. 

Crossing  the  plain  towards  the  Lebanon  range,  in  an 
hour  we  passed  a  fountain  near  an  artificial  Roman 
mound.  At  the  first  were  three  fellahas,  who  expressed 
aveat  fear  of  the  ’Anazeh  Arabs.  Two  of  them  were 

u 

young,  and  one  unmarried :  their  faces  were  uncovered, 
and  their  lips  stained  blue.  They  were  timid,  but  not 
uncourteous.  Crossing  the  head-waters  of  the  Litany,  we 
were  compelled  to  continue  on  for  some  time  after  dark. 
The  mountains  in  solemn  gloom,  and  lights  here  and 
there  on  the  plain,  indicated  a  distant  village ;  the 
silence  unbroken,  but  by  the  tramp  of  the  animals  and 
the  tinkling  bells  of  the  caravan.  At  length  we  heard 
the  welcome  sound  of  dogs  barking,  succeeded  by  the 
voices  of  men;  and  at  9.45,  camped,  by  starlight,  near  a 
village,  where  three  snow-capped  mountains  overlooked 
the  plain. 

Thursday,  June  29.  Two  of  the  men  sick  last  night, 
one  of  them  very  much  so.  We  seemed  to  have  imbibed 
the  disease  which  has  heretofore  prostrated  all  who  have 
ventured  upon  the  Dead  Sea,  and  were  about  to  pass 
the  ordeal.  As  I  looked  upon  my  companions  drooping 
around  me,  many  and  bitter  were  my  self-reioroaches  for 
having  ever  proposed  the  undertaking. 

Started  at  7.10  A.  M.,  our  course  north-west  for  the  first 
half  hour,  to  regain  the  high  road,  from  which  we  last 
night  diverged  in  search  of  water.  Our  route  then  led 
along  the  flank  of  Lebanon  towards  the  south-west.  Here 
and  there  upon  the  plain  on  one  side,  and  in  every  nook 
of  the  mountain  on  the  other,  was  a  village,  through  or 
beside  which  flowed  a  rivulet,  bordered  with  trees  and 
shrubbery,  the  only  lines  of  vegetation  above  the  plain. 


TOWN  OF  ZAHLET. 


503 


The  cultivation  was  the  same  as  we  have  heretofore  seen, 
with  the  addition  of  the  kersenna,  a  round  pea  with  a 
hard  shell,  growing  two  or  three  in  a  pod,  and  resembling 
very  large  radish  seeds  in  appearance.  The  kernel  is 
saffron-coloured,  sweet  to  the  taste,  and  it  is  an  article 
of  food  for  oxen  and  camels,  the  last  particularly.  It  is 
broken  and  given  in  moistened  balls.  We  saw  very  few 
birds  in  these  mountains.  We  then  traversed  a  well- 
watered  and  highly  cultivated  country,  and  passed  through 
the  village  of  Ma’alakah  and  the  town  of  Zahley;  the 
first  seated  on  a  slope,  the  last  in  a  beautiful  hollow  of 
the  mountain ;  the  borders  of  the  streams,  tributaries  of 
the  Litany,  in  sight  below,  lined  with  willow  and  a  profu¬ 
sion  of  the  silver-leaved  poplar.  Near  the  town,  we  met 
a  fellah  on  a  donkey,  travelling  with  all  his  effects ;  they 
consisted  of  a  mat,  two  cushions,  a  pipe  and  an  aba. 
This  is  considered  the  most  flourishing  town  in  the  Leba¬ 
non,  if  not  in  all  Syria.  It  has  four  Christian  churches, 
each  with  its  bell,  which  formerly  was  not  permitted  in 
the  Turkish  dominions.  The  houses  present  a  neat  ap¬ 
pearance,  and  many  of  them  were  whitewashed.  The 
people  courteously  saluted  us  as  we  passed.  There  are 
said  to  be  some  gipsies  here. 

From  this  place  I  sent  the  interpreter  ahead  to  engage 
quarters  for  us  in  the  vicinity  of  Beirut,  if  the  ship  were 
not  there,  as  medical  attendance  would  be  required  imme¬ 
diately  upon  our  arrival.  The  horse  he  rode,  the  best 
traveller  we  had,  died  upon  the  way.  Descending  and 
skirting  along  the  root  of  Lebanon,  we  turned  and  clam¬ 
bered  up  again,  and  stopped  to  rest  at  noon  upon  a  ter¬ 
race  overlooking  the  whole  plain  of  Bilk’ ah  —  a  glorious 
sight  —  but  we  were  too  sick  to  enjoy  it. 

At  3.50  P.  M.,  started  again  —  two  of  the  party  scarce 
able  to  sit  upon  their  horses — but  we  were  obliged  to  pro¬ 
ceed  for  want  of  accommodation.-  The  road  was  a  most 


504 


UNEXPECTED  RELIEF. 


execrable  one,  leading  over  the  summit  ridges  of  the 
Lebanon  —  a  keen,  cold  wind  blowing  from  south-west. 
From  the  highest  summit  we  could  see  the  mist  above 
the  sea,  but  not  the  sea  itself.  At  6.40  P.  M.,  we  were 
compelled  to  stop,  and  camped  near  a  dirty  khan,  on  a 
little  platform  overlooking  the  lovely  valley  of  Emana, 
one  thousand  feet  below.  It  was  a  cold  night,  during 
which  Mr.  Dale  was  attacked  with  the  same  symptoms  as 
the  other  sick.  One  of  the  party,  going  out  of  the  tent  in 
the  dark,  nearly  fell  over  the  ledge  down  the  precipice. 

Friday,  June  30.  A  chilly  morning  —  misty  clouds 
sweeping  over  the  mountain-tops  and  resting  in  the 
chasms.  We  were  4000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
The  two  first  taken  sick  were  better,  but  Mr.  Dale  was 
worse.  In  company  with  Mr.  Bedlow,  I  sent  him  ahead, 
that  he  might  obtain  the  best  medical  advice  as  soon  as 
possible. 

Started  at  7.2  A.  M.,  the  road  winding  over  almost  im¬ 
passable  mountain  ridges,  in  some  places  by  steps  cut  in 
the  rock,  and  yet  it  is  the  high  road  from  Beirut  to 
Damascus  —  one,  the  principal  sea-port,  and  the  other, 
the  capital  of  all  Syria.  In  our  weak  condition,  we 
travelled  slowly ;  the  way  grew  longer  and  longer  as  the 
day  wore  on,  and  the  coolness  of  the  morning  was  suc¬ 
ceeded  by  the  scorching  heat  of  noon. 

For  a  short  distance  we  travelled  along  an  old  Bom  an 
road,  the  curb-stones  distinctly  perceptible ;  and  at  10.30, 
saw  the  ruins  of  an  aqueduct  over  the  river  of  Beirut. 
There  was  a  single  tier  of  arches  on  the  north,  and  a 
double  tier  on  the  south  side  of  the  stream.  At  11, 
Beirut  and  the  sea  in  sight,  but  the  sick  scarce  able  to 
keep  their  saddles,  when  fortunately  we  met  our  country¬ 
man,  Dr.  De  Forest,  of  the  Evangelical  Mission,  who  pre¬ 
scribed  some  medicine  to  be  administered  as  soon  as  pos¬ 
sible.  At  11.20,  stopped  at  a  khan  for  that  purpose.  In 


505 


ARRIVAL  AT  THE  SEA-SHORE. 

an  hour  started  again,  and  near  the  village  of  Bhamdun 
passed  some  deposites  of  petrified  clam  and  oyster  shells, 
with  some  ammonites.  Just  below  was  ferruginous  sand¬ 
stone,  which  dipped  towards  the  west,  next  carbonate  of 
lime  and  calcareous  limestone.  At  one  place  the  crum¬ 
bling  sandstone  presented  a  variety  of  hues,  light  brown, 
dark  brown,  maroon,  purple,  yellow,  and  pink.  Two 
miles  below,  the  sandstone  descended  to  the  plain,  and 
vegetation  increased.  The  wheat  which  grew  so  sparsely 
up  the  mountains  as  to  be  plucked  up  by  the  roots,  was 
succeeded  by  the  fig,  the  apricot,  the  vine,  dlioura,  beans, 
cucumbers  and  melons,  while  three-fourths  of  the  space 
was  covered  with  the  mulberry.  Along  the  road,  just 
where  the  mountain  sinks  into  the  plain,  were  many 
carob  trees,  resembling  the  cherry  in  its  trunk  and  limbs, 
and  the  colour  of  its  bark,  the  apple  tree  in  its  leaves, 
and  the  catalpa  in  its  fruit— a  long  narrow  bean  of  an  in¬ 
sipid  sweet  taste.  As  we  opened  the  harbour  of  Beirut, 
our  strained  eyes  sought  in  vain  for  the  ship  we  so  longed 
to  see.  My  heart  sank  within  me,  as,  after  many  alter¬ 
nations  of  hope  and  fear,  the  only  three-masted  vessel  in 
the  port  proved  not  to  be  the  Supply.  The  end  who 
could  foresee ! 

The  luxuriant  foliage  of  the  plain  intercepted  the  light 
breeze  we  had  felt  in  the  mountains,  and  it  was  exces¬ 
sively  sultry ;  but,  we  at  length  came  to  the  groves  of 
pine  planted  to  arrest  the  encroachments  of  sand  from 
the  sea-shore,  and  thence  riding  through  gardens  that 
seemed  interminable,  we  at  length  reached  our  quarters 
upon  the  sea-shore.  Some  of  us  were  unable  to  dismount, 
from  sheer  exhaustion ;  Mr.  Dale,  two  of  the  seamen, 
and  myself,  requiring  immediate  medical  attendance. 

Saturday,  July  1.  All  hands,  nearly,  sick.  Dr.  Suquet, 
a  French  physician,  sent  by  his  government  to  study  the 
diseases  of  Syria,  in  attendance ;  but,  feeling  uneasy 
43  2  n 


506 


ILLNESS  OF  MR.  DALE. 


about  two  cases,  I  sent  an  express  for  Dr.  De  Forest. 
The  weather  wTarm  and  relaxing. 

Sunday,  July  2.  The  sick  mostly  better.  Dr.  De  Forest 
arrived.  He  said  that  much  care  was  required ;  but 
that  with  care  no  danger  was  to  be  apprehended.  He  de¬ 
clined  compensation.  Weather  warm  but  not  oppressive. 

Monday,  July  3.  The  sick  much  better,  except  one 
new  case.  Our  wounded  man  came  to  see  us.  We  were 
ever  scanning  the  horizon  for  the  expected  ship. 

Tuesday,  July  4.  Sick  convalescent  with  the  exception 
of  one  of  the  seamen,  attacked  early  in  the  morning.  At 
noon,  fired  twenty-one  guns  in  honour  of  the  day. 
Weather  warm. 

On  Monday,  the  10th,  Mr.  Dale,  in  the  hope  of  being 
more  speedily  invigorated  by  the  mountain  air,  rode  to 
Bhamdun,  a  village  about  twelve  miles  distant  up  the 
mountain.  It  was  the  dreadful  Damascus  road,  which 
we  had  travelled  eleven  days  before.  He  arrived 
thoroughly  exhausted,  but  was  the  next  day  much  re¬ 
cruited.  On  the  second  day,  however,  a  sirocco  set  in, 
which  lasted  three  days,  and  completely  prostrated  him. 
On  the  17th  I  received  intelligence  that  he  was  very  ili, 
and  immediately  hastened  up,  and  found  him  partially 
delirious.  He  laboured  under  a  low,  nervous  fever,  the 
same  which  had  carried  off  Costigan  and  Molyneaux. 
He  was  in  the  house  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Smith,  of  the  Ame¬ 
rican  Presbyterian  Mission,  and  received  from  all  its 
members  there  the  kindest  and  most  assiduous  nursing. 
Dr.  De  Forest  was  in  constant  attendance  day  and  night, 
and  his  wife  was  as  a  ministering  angel  to  the  invalid. 
Dr.  Y andyke  came  some  distance  to  see  him,  and  his  case 
received  every  alleviation  that  the  warmest  sympathy 
could  afford. 

The  exhibition  of  this  sympathy  for  a  stranger,  was 
strikingly  contrasted  by  a  case  of  unfeeling  selfishness 
in  the  village.  It  is  a  custom  among  the  villagers, 


507 


DEATH  OF  MR.  DALE. 

the  Druses  excepted,  to  fly  from  any  one  supposed  to 
be  attacked  with  a  contagious  disease.  A  woman, 
who  washed  for  Dr.  De  Forest,  being  taken  sick,  her 
family  believing  that  it  was  fever,  contracted  from  his 
clothes,  in  consequence  of  his  attendance  on  Mr.  Dale, 
they  all,  her  husband  and  her  children,  immediately 
fled,  leaving  beside  her  a  cucumber  and  a  piece  of  bread. 
The  Doctor  could  onty  prevail  on  the  daughter  to  place 
medicine  within  her  mother’s  reach.  And  they  are  as 
ignorant  and  superstitious  as  they  are  selfish.  On  occa¬ 
sion  of  a  solar  eclipse  not  long  since,  they  beat  upon  tin 
pans,  &c.,  to  frighten  away  the  serpents  which  they 
imagined  were  eating  up  the  sun  and  moon. 

My  poor  friend  lingered  until  the  evening  of  the  24th, 
when  he  expired  so  gently,  that  it  was  difficult  to  tell 
the  moment  of  dissolution.  Determined  to  take  his 
remains  home,  if  possible,  I  started  immediately  with 
them  for  Beirut.  It  was  a  slow,  dreary  ride  down  the 
rugged  mountain  by  torchlight.  As  I  followed  the  body 
of  my  late  companion,  accompanied  only  by  swarthy 
Arabs,  and  thought  of  his  young  and  helpless  children,  I 
could  scarce  repress  the  wish  that  I  had  been  taken,  and 
he  been  spared.  At  times,  the  wind,  sweeping  in  fitful 
gusts,  nearly  extinguished  the  torches ;  and  again  their 
blaze  would  stream  up  with  a  lurid  glare,  as  we  made 
our  way  through  chasms  and  hollows,  enveloped  in  a 
dense  and  palpable  mist.  We  reached  the  neighbour¬ 
hood  of  the  town  at  daylight,  and  the  body  was  imme¬ 
diately  placed  in  three  coffins,  (one  metallic,  and  two 
wooden  ones,)  and  laid  in  a  vacant  building. 

In  the  gloom,  consequent  on  our  loss,  we  waited  impa¬ 
tiently  for  the  Supply ;  but  in  vain  we  hourly  scanned 
the  horizon.  On  the  30th,  one  month  after  our  return, 
the  physicians  advised  us  to  leave  at  once,  as  there  could 
be  no  hope  of  the  recovery  of  the  sick  at  Beirut.  I  there¬ 
fore  chartered  a  small  French  brig,  to  take  our  boats  and 


503 


RETURN  HOME. 


effects,  the  body  of  our  friend,  and  ourselves,  to  Malta. 
An  unhappy  accident  in  the  transportation  of  the  remains 
from  the  shore  to  the  vessel,  and  the  superstitious  fears 
of  the  French  captain  and  his  crew,  compelled  me  most 
reluctantly  to  land  them.  About  sunset,  as  the  Turkish 
batteries  were  saluting  the  first  night  of  the  Ramedan, 
we  escorted  the  body  to  the  Frank  cemetery,  and  laid  it 
beneath  a  Pride  of  India  tree.  A  few  most  appropriate 
chapters  in  the  Bible  were  read,  and  some  affecting  re¬ 
marks  made  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Thompson ;  after  which,  the 
sailors  advanced,  and  fired  three  volleys  over  the  grave ; 
and  thus,  amid  unbidden  tears  and  stifled  sobs,  closed 
the  obsequies  of  our  lamented  companion  and  friend. 

At  9  P.  M.,  we  embarked  on  board  of  La  Perle  d’ Orient; 
and,  after  a  tedious  passage  of  thirty-eight  days,  during 
which  we  suffered  much  from  sickness,  debility,  and 
scarcity  of  food  and  water,  we  reached  Malta,  and  received 
every  possible  attention  from  our  Consul,  Mr.  Winthrop. 
Coming  from  a  sickly  climate,  we  were  not  permitted  to 
enter  the  town,  or  to  associate  with  any  one,  but  were 
confined  in  a  building  apart. 

On  the  12th  of  September,  the  Supply  having  arrived, 
I  had  the  satisfaction  of  reembarking  the  Expedition, 
with  only  three  of  its  members  on  the  sick-report. 

Sailing  thence,  we  touched  at  Naples,  Marseilles,  and 
Gibraltar,  in  the  hope  of  procuring  supplies ;  but,  in  the 
two  first  places,  we  were  refused  pratique,  and  from  the 
third,  we  were  peremptorily  ordered  away.  Like  the  dove 
that  could  find  no  resting-place,  our  weary  ship  then 
winged  her  way  for  home ;  and,  early  in  December,  we 
were  greeted  with  the  heart-clieering  sight  of  our  native 
land. 


ANALYSIS  OF  DEAD  SEA  WATER. 


509 


Analysis  of  the  Dead  Sea  Water ,'  by  James  G.  Booth  and 

Alexander  Muckle. 

Specific  gravity  at  60°= .  1.22742 

Chloride  of  magnesium, .  145.8971 

“  calcium, .  31.0746 

“  sodium, .  78.5537 

“  potassium, .  6.5860 

Bromide  of  potassium, .  1.3741 

Sulphate  of  lime, . 0.7012 


264.1867 

Water, . .  735.8133 


1000.0000 

Total  amount  of  solid  matter  found  by  direct 

experiment, . 267.0000 


THE  END. 


* 

. 


. 


' 


fl 


■ 


✓ 


1  .  •  ' 

' 


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LATELY  ISSUED-MULLER’S  PHYSICS, 

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OF 

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SPECIMEN  OF  THE  WOOD  ENGRAVINGS. 


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An  excellent  work,  fully  and  elegantly  illustrated.— Silliman's  Journal. 


1 


KNAPP’S  CHEMICAL  TECHNOLOGY. 


TECHNOLOGY; 

OR,  CHEMISTRY  APPLIED  TO  THE  ARTS  AND  TO  MANUFACTURES 

BY  DR.  F.  KNAPP, 

Professor  at  the  University  of  Giessen. 

Edited,  with  numerous  Notes  and  Additions,  by 
DR.  EDMUND  RONALDS,  and  DR.  THOMAS  RICHARDSON. 
First  American  Edition,  with  Notes  and  Additions, 

BY  PROFESSOR  WALTER  R.  JOHNSON. 

In  two  handsome  octavo  volumes ,  printed  and  illustrated  in  the  highest  style  of  art. 

Volume  One,  lately  published,  with  two  hundred  and  fourteen  large  wood  engravings. 

Volume  Two,  now  ready,  with  two  hundred  and  fifty  wood  engravings. 


SPECIMEN  OF  THE  WOOD  ENGRAVINGS. 


One  of  the  best  works  of  modern  times. — New  York  Commercial. 

We  think  it  will  prove  the  most  popular,  as  it  is  decidedly  the  best  of  the  series.  Written  by  one  wh( 
has  for  many  years  studied  both  theoretically  and  practically  the  processes  which  he  describes  ;  the  de 
scriptions  are  precise,  and  conveyed  in  a  simple  unpretending  style,  so  that  they  are  easily  understood 
while  they  are  sufficiently  full  in  detail,  to  include  within  them  everything  necessary  to  the  entire  com 
prehension  of  the  operations.  The  work  is  also  carefully  brought  down  to  include  the  most  recent  im 
provements  introduced  upon  the  continent  of  Europe,  and  thus  gives  us  full  descriptions  of  processes  tc 
which  reference  is  frequently  made  in  other  works,  while  many  of  them  are,  we  believe,  now  for  the  firs 
time,  presented  in  a  complete  state  to  the  English  reader — Franklin  Institute  Journal. 

In  addition  to  the  valuable  scientific  matter  contained  in  the  original  work,  very  extensive  Americar 
additions  have  been  made  to  it  by  the  editor,  which  are  exceedingly  valuable,  and  of  much  interest  to  th( 
general  reader. 

The  publishers  have  spared  no  pains  in  bringing  out  a  work  of  superior  mechanical  execution  and  ran 
excellence,  with  numerous  skillfully  engraved  cuts,  designed  to  illustrate  the  various  subjects  treated  ii 
this  work.  We  feel  confident  that,  as  a  truly  useful  publication,  it  will  be  eagerly  sought  after  and  highlj 
appreciated. — N.  Y.  Farmer  and  Mechanic. 

We  had  the  pleasure  of  noticing,  in  a  former  number,  the  first  volume  of  this  excellent  work,  and  of  ex 
pressing  our  high  sense  of  its  value.  We  need  say  little  more,  therefore,  of  its  continuation,  than  that  i 
fully  sustains  the  character  of  its  predecessor,  both  in  regard  to  the  value  of  the  original  treatise,  and  the 
number  and  importance  of  the  additions  which  have  been  made  to  it  by  the  English  editors. —  The  British 
and  Foreign  Medico  Chirurgical  Review. 

2 


WEISBACH’S  MECHANICS. 


PRINCIPLES  OF  THE 

MECHANICS  OF  MACHINERY  AND  ENGINEERING, 

By  Professor  JULIUS  WEISBACH. 

* 

TRANSLATED  AND  EDITED  BY  PROFESSOR  GORDON,  OF  GLASGOW. 

First  American  Edition,  with  Additions, 

By  Prof.  WALTER  R.  JOHNSON. 

In  two  Octavo  Volumes,  beautifully  printed, 

Volume  One,  with  five  hundred  and  fifty  illustrations,  just  issued. 

Volume  Two,  with  three  hundred  and  thirty  illustrations,  now  ready. 


SPECIMEN  OF  THE  WOOD  ENGRAVINGS. 


The  second  volume  of  this  work  embraces  the  application  of  the  Principles  of  Mechanics  to 
Roofs,  Bridges,  Platform  Scales,  Water  Powers,  Dams,  Water  Wheels,  Turbines,  Water  En¬ 
gines,  &c.  &c. 

This  work  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  to  mathematicians  that  has  been  laid  before  us  for  some  time 
and  we  may  safely  term  it  a  scientific  gem  — The  Builder. 

From  Charles  H.  Haswell ,  Esq.,  Engineer  in  Chief,  U.  S.  N. 

The  design  of  the  author  in  supplying  the  instructor  with  a  guide  for  teaching,  and  the  student  with  an 
auxiliary  for  the  acquirement  of  the  science  of  mechanics,  has,  in  my  opinion,  been  attained  in  a  most 
successful  manner.  The  illustrations,  in  the  fullness  of  their  construction,  and  in  typographical  execu¬ 
tion,  are  without  a  parallel.  It  will  afford  me  much  pleasure  to  recommend  its  use  by  the  members  of 
the  profession  with  which  I  am  connected. 


IN  PREPARATION, 


Works  on  Chemistry,  Metallurgy,  Machines,  The  Steam  Engine,  Astronomy,  Rural  Economy, 

&c.  &c. 

3 


1 


MOHR,  REDWOOD,  AND  PROCTER’S  PHARMACY.  NOW  READY. 

PRACTICAL- PHARMACY. 

COMPRISING  THE  ARRANGEMENTS,  APPARATUS,  AND  MANIPULATIONS  OF  THE 

PHARMACEUTICAL  SHOP  AND  LABORATORY. 

BY  FRANCIS  MOHR,  Ph.  D., 

Assessor  Pharmacia  of  the  Royal  Prussian  College  of  Medicine,  Coblentz. 

AND  THEOPHILtJS  REDWOOD, 

Professor  of  Pharmacy  in  the  Pharmaceutical  Society  of  Great  Britain. 

EDITED,  WITH  EXTENSIVE  ADDITIONS, 

BY  PROFESSOR  WILLIAM  PROCTER, 

Of  the  Philadelphia  College  of  Pharmacy. 

In  one  handsomely  printed  octavo  volume,  of  570  pages,  with  over  500  engravings  on  wood. 


SPECIMEN  OF  THE  WOOD  ENGRAVINGS. 


Such  a  manual  as  the  work  before  us,  has  long  been  a  desideratum  in  this  country.  There  has  been  a 
great  want  of  a  proper  text-book  of  Pharmacy ;  and  to  this  want  may  be  attributed  much  of  the  ignorance 
which  prevails  on  this  subject,  in  places  remote  from  the  large  cities.  The  present  work  admirably  sup¬ 
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attention  of  the  apothecary  and  druggist,  as  well  as  to  the  physician  who  prepares  his  own  prescriptions, 
as  a  unique  compendium  of  valuable,  practical  knowledge  in  Pharmacy. —  Transylvania  Med.  Journal , 
August.  1849. 

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that  has  ever  been  made  to  the  literature  of  our  country.  Besides  condensing  into  a  compara¬ 
tively  narrow  compass,  the  substance  of  larger  works  of  the  same  kind  which  had  preceded  it,  it 
contains  a  vast  amount  of  information  that  is  not  elsewhere  to  be  found,  and  is  distinguished,  not 
less  for  its  admirable  arrangement,  than  for  the  variety  of  subjects  of  which  it  treats.  The  present 
volume,  which  is  edited  by  one  of  the  most  distinguished  scholars  of  our  country,  is  worthy  to 
follow  in  the  train  of  those  which  have  preceded  it.  It  is  a  remarkably  felicitous  condensation 
of  the  more  recent  improvements  in  science  and  the  arts,  besides  forming  a  very  important  addi¬ 
tion  to  the  department  of  Biography,  the  general  progress  of  society,  Ac.,  Ac.”— Albany  Argus. 


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CAMPBELL’S  LORD  CHANCELLORS. 

NOW  COMPLETE. 


LIVES  OF  THE  LORD  CHANCELLORS  AND  KEEPERS  OF  THE 
GREAT  SEAL  OF  ENGLAND, 

FROM  THE  EARLIEST  TIMES  TO  THE  REIGN  OF  KING  GEORGE  IV., 

BY  JOHN  LORD  CAMPBELL,  A.M.,  F.R.S.E. 

Complete  in  seven  neat  volumes  in  demy  octavo,  extra  cloth. 
Bringing  the  work  to  the  death  of  Lord  Eldon,  in  1838. 

“  It  is  sufficient  for  us  to  thank  Lord  Campbell  for  the  honest  industry  with  which  he  has  thus  far 
prosecuted  his  large  task,  the  general  candor  and  liberality  with  which  he  has  analyzed  the  lives 
and  characters  of  a  long  s accession  of  influential  magistrates  and  ministers,  and  the  manly  style 
of  his  narrative.  We  need  hardly  say  that  we  shall  expect  with  great  interest  the  continuation 
of  this  performance.  But  the  present  series  of  itself  is  more  than  sufficient  to  give  Lord  Campbell 
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“  The  volumes  teem  with  exciting  incidents,  abound  in  portraits,  sketches  and  anecdotes,  and  are 
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“A  work  in  three  handsome  octavo  volumes,  which  we  shall  regard  as  both  an  ornament  and  an 
honor  to  our  library.  A  History  of  the  Lord  Chancellors  of  England  from  the  institution  of  the 
office,  is  necessarily  a  History  of  the  Constitution,  the  Court,  and  the  Jurisprudence  of  the  King¬ 
dom,  and  these  volumes  teem  with  a  world  of  collateral  matter  of  the  liveliest  character  for  the 
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mind.” — Saturday  Courier. 

“  The  brilliant  success  of  this  work  in  England  is  by  no  means  greater  than  its  merits.  It  is 
certainly  the  most  brilliant  contribution  to  English  history  made  within  our  recollection ;  it  has 
the  charm  and  freedom  of  Biography  combined  with  the  elaborate  and  careful  comprehensiveness 
of  History.” — N.  Y.  Tribune. 

MURRAY’S  ENCYCLOPAEDIA  OF  GEOGRAPHY. 


THE  ENCYCLOPEDIA  OF  GEOGRAPHY, 

COMPRISING 

A  COMPLETE  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  EARTH,  PHYSICAL, 
STATISTICAL,  CIVIL  AND  POLITICAL. 

„  EXHIBITING 

ITS  RELATION  TO  THE  HEAVENLY  BODIES,  ITS  PHYSICAL  STRUCTURE,  THE 
NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  EACH  COUNTRY,  AND  THE  INDUSTRY, 
COMMERCE,  POLITICAL  INSTITUTIONS,  AND  CIVIL 
AND  SOCIAL  STATE  OF  ALL  NATIONS. 

BY  HUGH  MURRAY,  F.R.S.E.,  &c. 

Assisted  in  Botany,  by  Professor  HOOKER— Zoology,  Ac.,  by  W.  W.  SWAINSON — Astronomy,  Ac., 
by  Professor  WALLACE— Geology,  &c.,  by  Professor  JAMESON. 

REVISED,  WITH  ADDITIONS, 

BY  THOMAS  G.  BRADFORD. 

THE  WHOLE  BROUGHT  UP,  BY  A  SUPPLEMENT,  TO  1843. 

In  three  large  octavo  volumes. 

VARIOUS  STYLES  OF  BINDING. 

This  great  work,  furnished  at  a  remarkably  cheap  rate,  contains  about 
Nineteen  Hundred  large  imperial  Pages,  and  is  illustrated  by  Eighty- 
Two  small  Maps,  and  a  colored  Map  of  the  United  States,  after  Tan¬ 
ner’s,  together  with  about  Eleven  Hundred  Wood  Cuts  executed  in  the 
best  style. 


t 


vKrmx 


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STRICKLAND’S  QUEENS  OF  ENGLAND. 


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OF 

LIVES  OF  THE  QUEENS  OF  ENGLAND, 

FROM  THE  NORMAN  CONQUEST; 

WITH  ANECDOTES  OF  THEIR  COURTS,  NOW  FIRST  PUBLISHED  FROM  OFFICIAL 
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than  six  hundred  pages,  containing  Volumes  Four  and  Five  of  the  12mo., 
have  just  been  issued.  The  remainder  will  follow  rapidly,  two  volumes  in 
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tories  of  the  day.  The  publishers  have  gone  to  much  expense  in  pre¬ 
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The  execution  of  this  work  is  equal  to  the  conception.  Great  pains  have  been  taken  to  make 
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ROSCOE’S  LIVES  OF  THE  KINGS  OF  ENGLAND. 

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MEMOIRS  OF  THE  LOVES  OF  THE  POETS, 

Biographical  Sketches  of  Women  celebrated  in  Ancient  and 

Modern  Poetry. 

BY  MRS.  JAMIESON. 

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FREDERICK  THE  GREAT,  HIS  COURT  AND  TIMES. 

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HISTORY  OF  CONGRESS, 

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In  one  large  octavo  volume  of  over  700  pages,  price  only  $1.50. 

MOOSE’S  XR EX. AND  — NO W  COMPLETE. 

THE  HISTORY  OF  IRELAND, 

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In  two  octavo  volumes,  extra  cloth. 

Mr.  Moore  has  at  length  completed  his  History  of  Ireland  containing  the  most  troubled  and  inter¬ 
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far  as  the  Great  Expedition  against  Scotland  in  1545,  can  procure  the  second  volume  separate. 

HISTORY  OF  MW^FFRAkciTNoli^  IN  1815, 

CONTAINING  MINUTE  DETAILS  OF  THE  BATTLES  OF  QUATRE-BRAS,  LIGNY,  WAVRE 

AND  WATERLOO. 

BY  CAPTAIN  W.  SIBORNE. 

In  one  octavo  volume,  with  Maps  and  Plans  of  Battles,  &c.,  viz.: 

1.  Part  of  Belgium,  indicating  the  distribution  of  the  armies  on  commencing  hostilities.  2.  Field 
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at  a  quarter  past  2  o’clock,  P.  M.  5.  Field  of  Ligny,  at  half  past  8  o’clock,  P.  M.  6.  Field  of  Water¬ 
loo.  at  a  quarter  past  11  o’clock,  A.  M.  7.  Field  of  Waterloo,  at  a  quarter  before  8  o’clock,  P.  M. 
8.  Field  of  Waterloo,  at  5  minutes  past  8  o’clock,  P.  M.  9.  Field  of  Wavre,  at  4  o’clock,  P.  M.,  18th 
June.  10.  Field  of  Wavre,  at  4  o’clock,  A.  M.,  19th  June.  11.  Part  of  France,  on  which  is  shown 
the  advance  of  the  Allied  Armies  into  the  Kingdom. 

TEXT  BOOK  OP  ECCLESIASTICAL  HISTORY. 

BY  J.  C.  I.  GIESELER,  PROFESSOR  OF  THEOLOGY  IN  GOTTINGEN.  TRANSLATED 
FROM  THE  THIRD  GERMAN  EDITION,  BY  F.  CUNNINGHAM. 

In  three  octavo  volumes,  containing  over  1200  large  pages. 

ELEMENTS  OF  UNIVERSAL  HISTORY, 

ON  A  NEW  AND  SYSTEMATIC  PLAN,  FROM  THE  EARLIEST  TIMES  TO  THE  TREATY 
OF  VIENNA,  TO  WHICH  IS  ADDED  A  SUMMARY  OF  THE  LEADING 
EVENTS  SINCE  THAT  PERIOD. 

BY  H.  WHITE,  B.  A. 

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GKAHAME’S  COLONIAL  HISTORY. 


HISTORY  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

FROM  THE  PLANTATION  OF  THE  BRITISH  COLONIES 
TILL  THEIR  ASSUMPTION  OF  INDEPENDENCE. 

SECOND  AMERICAN  EDITION, 

ENLARGED  AND  AMENDED, 

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WITH  A  PORTRAIT. 

This  work  having  assumed  the  position  of  a  standard  history  of  this 
country,  the  publishers  have  been  induced  to  issue  an  edition  in  smaller  size 
and  at  a  less  cost,  that  its  circulation  may  be  commensurate  with  its  merits. 
It  is  now  considered  as  the  most  impartial  and  trustworthy  history  that  has 
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copiously  used  by  every  one  who  has,  since  its  appearance,  undertaken  the  history  of  this  country. 
In  the  course  of  the  memoir  prefixed  to  it,  it  is  vindicated  from  the  aspersions  cast  on  it  by  Mr. 
Bancroft,  who,  nevertheless,  has  derived  from  it  a  vast  amount  of  the  information  and  documentary 
material  of  his  own  ambitious,  able  and  extended  work.  It  is  issued  in  two  volumes,  and  cannot 
fail  to  find  its  way  to  every  library  of  any  pretensions. — New  York  Courier  and  Enquirer. 


COOPER’S  NAVAL  HISTORY. 


HISTORY  OF  THE  NAVY  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES  OF  AMERICA, 

BY  J.  FENIMORE  COOPER. 

THIRD  EDITION,  WITH  CORRECTIONS  AND  ADDITIONS. 

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With  a  Portrait  of  the  Author,  Two  Maps,  and  Portraits  of  Paul  Jones,  Bainbridge, 
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WRAXALL’S  HISTORICAL  MEMOIRS, 


HISTORICAL  MEMOIRS  OF  MY  OWN  TIMES, 

BY  SIR  N.  W.  WRAXALL. 

ONE  NEAT  VOLUME,  EXTRA  CLOTH. 

This  is  the  work  for  which,  in  consequence  of  too  truthful  a  portraiture  of  Catherine  II.,  the 
author  was  imprisoned  and  fined.  Taught  by  this  experience,  his  succeeding  memoirs  he  sup¬ 
pressed  until  after  his  death. 


WRAXALL’S  POSTHUMOUS  MEMOIRS. 


POSTHUMOUS  MEMOIRS  OF  HIS  OWN  TIMES, 

BY  SIR  N.  W.  WRAXALL. 

IN  ONE  VOLUME,  EXTRA  CLOTH. 

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CONTAINING  NEARLY  THREE  HUNDRED  LETTERS. 

NOW  FIRST  PUBLISHED  FROM  THE  ORIGINALS,  AND  FORMING  AN  UNINTER¬ 
RUPTED  SERIES  FROM  1735  TO  1797. 

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THE  LETTERS  OF  HORACE  WALPOLE,  EARL  OF  ORFORD, 
TO  SIR  HORACE  MANN,  FROM  1760  TO  1785. 

NOW  FIRST  PUBLISHED  FROM  THE  ORIGINAL  MSS. 

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W  A  ITqITsT^  r  d  . 

MEMOIRS  OF  THE  REIGN  OF  KING  GEORGE  THE  THIRD, 

BY  HORACE  WALPOLE. 

NOW  FIRST  PUBLISHED  FROM  THE  ORIGINAL  MSS. 

EDITED,  WITH  NOTES, 

BY  SIR  DENIS  LE  M ARCHANT. 

These  Memoirs  comprise  the  first  twelve  years  of  the  reign  of  George  III. ;  and  recommend 
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with  America.  They  form  a  sequel  to  the  “  Memoirs  of  George  the  Second,”  by  the  same  author. 

HISTORY  OF  THE  HUGUENOTS— A  NEW  EDITION, 

CONTINUED  TO  THE  PRESENT  TIME. 

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zine. 

“  Not  the  least  interesting  portion  of  the  work  has  reference  to  the  violence  and  persecutions 
of  1815.” — Times. 

INGERSOLL’S  LATE  WAR. 

HISTORICAL  SKETCH  OF  THE  SECOND  WAR  BETWEEN 
THE  UNITED  STATES  OF  AMERICA  AND  GREAT 
BRITAIN,  DECLARED  BY  ACT  OF  CONGRESS, 

JUNE  18,  1812,  AND  CONCLUDED  BY 
PEACE,  FEBRUARY  15,  1815. 

BY  CHARLES  J,  XNG-ERSOLL. 

One  volume  octavo  of  516  pages,  embracing  the  events  of  1812 — 1813. 
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R?SH^ToW 

MEMORANDA  OF  A  RESIDENCE  AT  THE  COURT  OP  LONDON, 

COMPRISING  INCIDENTS  OFFICIAL  AND  PERSONAL,  FROM  1819  TO  1825; 

INCLUDING  NEGOTIATIONS  ON  THE  OREGON  QUESTION,  AND  OTHER  UNSETTLED  RELATIONS 
BETWEEN  THE  UNITED  STATES  AND  GREAT  BRITAIN. 

BY  niCH^ZlB  RUSH, 

Envoy  Extraordinary  and  Minister  Plenipotentiary  from  the  United  States,  from  i  J17  to  1825. 

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N  I  E  B  U  HJVS  ROME. 

THE  HISTORY  OF  ROME, 

B  Y  B.  G.  NIEBUHR. 

COMPLETE  IN  TWO  LARGE  OCTAVO  VOLUMES. 

Done  up  in  extra  cloth  ;  or  five  parts,  paper,  price  $1.00  each. 

The  last  three  parts  of  this  valuable  book  have  never  before  been  published  in  this  country,  hav¬ 
ing  only  lately  been  printed  in  Germany,  and  translated  in  England.  The  two  last  of  these  com¬ 
prise  Professor  Niebuhr’s  Lectures  on  the  latter  part  of  Roman  History,  so  long  lost  to  the  world. 

“  It  is  an  unexpected  surprise  and  pleasure  to  the  admirers  of  Niebuhr — that  is,  to  all  earnest  stu¬ 
dents  of  ancient  history — to  recover,  as  from  the  grave,  the  lectures  before  us.” — Eclectic  Review. 

“  The  world  has  now  in  Niebuhr  an  imperishable  model.” — Edinburgh  Review,  Jan.  1844. 

“Here  we  close  our  remarks  upon  this  memorable  work, a  work  which,  of  all  that  have  appeared 
in  our  age,  is  the  best  fitted  to  excite  men  of  learning  to  intellectual  activity  :  from  which  the  most 
accomplished  scholar  may  gather  fresh  stores  of  knowledge,  to  which  the  most  experienced  politi¬ 
cian  may  resort  for  theoretical  and  practical  instruction,  and  which  no  person  can  read  as  it  ought 
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enlivened  and  strengthened.” — Edinburgh  Review. 

“  It  is  since  I  saw  you  that  I  have  been  devouring  with  the  most  intense  admiration  the  third 
volume  of  Niebuhr.’  The  clearness  and  comprehensiveness  of  all  his  military  details  is  a  new 
feature  in  that  wonderful  mind,  and  how  inimitably  beautiful  is  that  brief  account  of  Terni.” — Dr. 
Arnold  (Life,  vol.  ii.) 

PROFESSOR  RANKE’S  HISTORICAL  WORKS. 

HISTOSY  OF  THE  FOFES, 

THEIR  CHURCH  AND  STATE,  IN  THE  SIXTEENTPI  AND  SEVENTEENTH  CENTURIES. 

BY  LEOPOLD  RANKE. 

TRANSLATED  FROM  THE  LAST  EDITION  OF  THE  GERMAN,  BY  WALTER  K.  KELLY,  ESQ.,  B.  A. 

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THE  TURKISH  AND  SPANISH  EMPIRES, 

IN  THE  SIXTEENTH  CENTURY  AND  BEGINNING  OP  THE  SEVENTEENTH, 

BY  PROFESSOR  LEOPOLD  RANKE. 

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HISTORY  OF  THE  REFORMATION  IN  GERMANY, 

BY  PROFESSOR  LEOPOLD  RANKE. 

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TRANSLATED  FROM  THE  SECOND  EDITION,  BY  SARAH  AUSTIN. 

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brougham  on  the  french  revolution. 

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No.  1— PHILOSOPHICAL  THEORIES  AND  PHILOSOPHICAL  EXPERIENCE. 

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OF  GRACE  MDCCCXLV. 

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THE  WORKS  OF  DE  CANDOLLE,  LINDLEY,  &c. 

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taining  that  work,  the  “  Christmas  Stories,”  and  “  Pictures  from  Italy.”  Purchasers  may  thus  rely 
on  being  able  to  perfect  their  sets. 


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SELECT  WORKS  OF  FIELDING  AND  SMOLLETT, 

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taining  that  work,  the  “  Christmas  Stories,”  and  “  Pictures  from  Italy.”  Purchasers  may  thus  rely 
on  being  able  to  perfect  their  sets. 

ALSO,  AN  EDITION  PROFUSELY  ILLUSTRATED  WITH 

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HUNDRED  AND  FORTY  WOOD-CUTS. 

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53=  The  above  are  the  only  Complete  and  Uniform  Editions  of  Dickens’s  Works  now 
before  the  public. 


NOW  PUBLISHING, 

DOMBEY  AND  SON. 

FINE  EDITION. 

In  twenty  numbers,  price  8  cents  each,  with  two  illustrations  by  Hablot 

K.  Browne  in  each  number. 

This  is  the  only  edition  which  presents  the  plates  accompanying  the  text  to  which  they  refer. 


LEA  AND  BLANCHARD’S  PUBLICATIONS. 


SELECT  WORKS  OF  FIELDING  AND  SMOLLETT, 

Printed  in  a  neat  and  uniform  style,  to  match  the  cheap  edition  of  Dickens’s  Works. 

SELECT  WORKS  OF  TOBIAS  SMOLLETT, 

WITH  A  MEMOIR  OF  HIS  LIFE  AND  WRITINGS, 
BY  SIR  WALTER  SCOTT. 

THIS  EDITION  CONTAINS  I 

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THE  EXPEDITION  OF  HUMPHREY  CLINKER.  Price  twenty-five  cents. 

THE  ADVENTURES  OF  FERDINAND  COUNT  FATHOM.  Price  twenty-five  cents. 

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BY  ARTHUR  MURPHY,  ESQ. 

THIS  EDITION  CONTAINS  : 

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sold  separate. 

comprising: 

THE  SPY— THE  W ATER WITCH— HEIDENMAUER— PRECAUTION— HOMEWARD  BOUND 
—HOME  AS  FOUND— THE  LAST  OF  THE  MOHICANS— THE  HEADSMAN— THE  TWO 
ADMIRALS— THE  PIONEERS— THE  PILOT— LIONEL  LINCOLN— THE  PATHFINDER — 
THE  WISH-TON-WISH— MERCEDES  OF  CASTILE— THE  MONIKINS— ' THE  BRAVO— 
THE  DEERSLAYER— THE  PRAIRIE— THE  RED  ROVER— WING  AND  WING— WYAN¬ 
DOTTE,  OR  THE  HUTTED  KNOLL;  AND  THE  TRAVELING  BACHELOR. 

ALSO,  NED  MYERS ;  OR,  A  LIFE  BEFORE  THE  MAST, 

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BOY’S  TREASURY  OF  SPORTS. 

THE  BOY'S  TREASURY  OF  SPORTS,  PASTIMES  AND  RECREATIONS. 

WITH  FOUR  HUNDRED  ILLUSTRATIONS, 

BY  SAMUEL  WILLIAMS. 

IS  NOW  READY. 

In  one  very  neat  volume,  bound  in  extra  crimson  cloth;  handsomely  printed  and 
illustrated  with  engravings  in  the  first  style  of  art,  and  containing 
about  six  hundred  and  fifty  articles.  A  present  for  all  seasons. 


PREFACE. 

This  illustrated  Manual  of  “  Sports,  Pastimes,  and  Recreations,”  has  been  prepared  with  especial 
regard  to  the  Health,  Exercise,  and  Rational  Enjoyment  of  the  young  readers  to  whom  it  is  ad¬ 
dressed. 

Every  variety  of  commendable  Recreation  will  be  found  in  the  following  pages.  First,  you  have 
.  the  little  Toys  of  the  Nursery ;  the  Tops  and  Marbles  of  the  Play-ground  ;  and  the  Balls  of  the 
Play-room,  or  the  smooth  Lawn. 

Then,  you  have  a  number  of  Pastimes  that  serve  to  gladden  the  fireside  ;  to  light  up  many  faces 
right  joyfully,  and  make  the  parlour  re-echo  with  mirth. 

Next,  come  the  Exercising  Sports  of  the  Field,  the  Green,  and  the  Play-ground;  followed  by 
the  noble  and  truly  English  game  of  Cricket. 

Gymnastics  are  next  admitted;  then,  the  delightful  recreation  of  Swimming  ;  and  the  healthful 
sport  of  Skating. 

Archery,  once  the  pride  of  England,  is  then  detailed  ;  and  very  properly  followed  by  Instructions 
in  the  graceful  accomplishment  of  Fencing,  and  the  manly  and  enlivening  exercise  of  Riding. 

Angling,  the  pastime  of  childhood,  boyhood,  manhood,  and  old  age,  is  next  described  ;  and  by 
attention  to  the  instructions  here  laid  down,  the  lad  with  a  stick  and  a  string  may  soon  become  an 
expert  Angler. 

Keeping  Animals  is  a  favourite  pursuit  of  boyhood.  Accordingly,  we  have  described  how  to  rear 
the  Rabbit,  the  Squirrel,  ttie  Dormouse,  the  Guinea  Pig,  the  Pigeon,  and  the  Silkworm.  A  long 
chapter  is  adapted  to  the  rearing  of  Song  Birds  ;  the  several  varieties  of  which,  and  their  respective 
cages,  are  next  described.  And  here  we  may  hint,  that  kindness  to  Animals  invariably  denotes  an 
excellent  disposition  ;  for,  to  pel  a  little  creature  one  hour,  and  to  treat  it  harshly  the  next,  marks 
a  capricious  if  not  a  cruel  temper.  Humanity  is  a  jewel,  which  every  boy  should  be  proud  to  wear 
in  his  breast. 

We  now  approach  the  more  sedate  amusements— as  Draughts  and  Chess ;  two  of  the  noblest 
exercises  of  the  ingenuity  of  the  human  mind.  Dominoes  and  Bagatelle  follow.  With  a  know¬ 
ledge  of  these  four  games,  who  would  pass  a  dull  hour  in  the  dreariest  day  of  winter ;  or  who 
would  sit  idly  by  the  fire  1 

Amusements  in  Arithmetic,  harmless  Legerdemain,  or  sleight-of-hand,  and  Tricks  with  Cards, 
will  delight  many  a  family  circle,  when  the  business  of  the  day  is  over,  and  the  book  is  laid  aside. 

Although  the  present  volume  is  a  book  of  amusements,  Science  has  not  been  excluded  from  its 
pages.  And  why  should  it  be  ?  when  Science  is  as  entertaining  as  a  fairy  tale.  The  changes  we 
read  of  in  little  nursery-books  are  not  more  amusing  than  the  changes  in  Chemistry,  Optics,  Elec¬ 
tricity,  Magnetism,  &c.  By  understanding  these,  you  may  almost  become  a  little  Magician. 

Toy  Balloons  and  Paper  Fireworks,  (or  Fireworks  without  Fire,)  come  next.  Then  follow  In¬ 
structions  for  Modelling  in  Card-Board;  so  that  you  may  build  for  yourself  a  palace  or  a  carriage, 
and,  in  short,  make  for  yourself  a  little  paper  world. 

Puzzles  and  Paradoxes,  Enigmas  and  Riddles,  and  Talking  with  the  Fingers,  next  make  up  plenty 
of  exercise  for  “  Guess,”  and  “  Guess  again.”  And  as  you  have  the  “  Keys”  in  your  own  hand,  you 
may  keep  your  friends  in  suspense,  and  make  yourself  as  mysterious  as  the  Sphynx. 

A  chapter  of  Miscellanies— useful  and  amusing  secrets— winds  up  the  volume. 

The  “  Treasury”  contains  upwards  of  four  hundred  Engravings ;  so  that  it  is  not  only  a  collection 
of  “  secrets  worth  knowing,”  but  it  is  a  book  of  pictures,  as  full  of  prints  as  a  Christmas  pudding 
is  of  plums. 

It  may  be  as  well  to  mention  that  the  “  Treasury”  holds  many  new  games  that  have  never 
before  been  printed  in  a  book  of  this  kind.  The  old  games  have  been  described  afresh.  Thus  it 
is,  altogether,  a  new  book. 

And  now  we  take  leave,  wishing  you  many  hours,  and  days,  and  weeks  of  enjoyment  over  these 
pages;  and  we  hope  that  you  may  be  as  happy  as  this  book  is  brimful  of  amusement. 


LEA  AND  BLANCHARD’S  PUBLICATIONS. 


POPULAR  SCIENCE. 


PHILOSOPHY  IN  SPORT,  MADE  SCIENCE  IN  EARNEST, 

BEING  AN  ATTEMPT  TO  ILLUSTRATE  THE  FIRST  PRIN¬ 
CIPLES  OF  NATURAL  PHILOSOPHY,  BY  THE 
AID  OF  TPIE  POPULAR  TOYS  AND 
SPORTS  OF  YOUTH. 

FROM  THE  SIXTH  AND  GREATLY  IMPROVED  LONDON  EDITION. 

In  one  very  neat  royal  18mo.  volume,  with  nearly  one  hundred  illustrations  on  wood. 

Fine  extra  crimson  cloth. 

“  Messrs.  Lea  &  Blanchard  have  issued,  in  a  beautiful  manner,  a  handsome  hook,  called  ‘  Philoso¬ 
phy  in  Sport,  made  Science  in  Earnest.'  This  is  an  admirable  attempt  to  illustrate  the  first  prin¬ 
ciples  of  Natural  Philosophy,  by  the  aid  of  the  popular  toys  and  sports  of  youth.  Useful  informa¬ 
tion  is  conveyed  in  an  easy,  graceful,  yet  dignified  manner,  and  rendered  easy  to  the  simplest  under¬ 
standing.  The  book,  is  an  admirable  one,  and  must  meet  with  universal  favour.” — N.  Y.  Evening 
Mirror. 

ENDLESS  AMUSEMENT. 

JUST  ISSUED. 


ENDLESS  AMUSEMENT, 

A  COLLECTION  OF 

NEARLY  FOUR  HUNDRED  ENTERTAINING  EXPERIMENTS 
IN  VARIOUS  BRANCHES  OF  SCIENCE, 

INCLUDING 

ACOUSTICS,  ARITHMETIC,  CHEMISTRY,  ELECTRICITY,  HYDRAULICS,  HYDROSTATICS, 
MAGNETISM,  MECHANICS,  OPTICS,  WONDERS  OF  THE  AIR  PUMP,  ALL  THE 
POPULAR  TRICKS  AND  CHANGES  OF  THE  CARDS,  Ac.,  &C. 

TO  WHICH  IS  ADDED, 

A  COMPLETE  SYSTEM  OF  PYROTECHNY, 

OR  THE  ART  OF  MAKING  FIRE-WORKS: 

THE  WHOLE  SO  CLEARLY  EXPLAINED  AS  TO  BE  WITHIN  REACH 
OF  THE  MOST  LIMITED  CAPACITY. 

WITH  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

FROM  THE  SEVENTH  LONDON  EDITION. 

In  one  neat  royal  18mo.  volume,  fine  extra  crimson  cloth. 

This  work  has  long  supplied  instructive  amusement  to  the  rising  generations  in  England,  and 
will  doubtless  be  hailed  with  pleasure  by  those  of  this  country  who  like  (and  what  boy  does  not) 
the  marvellous  tricks  and  changes,  experiments  and  wonders  afforded  by  the  magic  of  science  and 
jugglery. 

CHEMISTRY  OF  THE  FOUR  SEASONS, 

SPRING,  SUMMER,  AUTUMN,  AND  WINTER. 

AN  ESSAY,  PRINCIPALLY  CONCERNING  NATURAL  PHENOMENA,  ADMITTING  OF 
INTERPRETATION  BY  CHEMICAL  SCIENCE,  AND  ILLUSTRATING 
PASSAGES  OF  SCRIPTURE. 

EY  THOMAS  GRIFFITHS, 

PROFESSOR  OF  CHEMISTRY  IN  THE  MEDICAL  COLLEGE  OF  ST.  BARTHOLOMEW’S  HOSPITAL,  ETC. 

In  one  large  royal  12mo.  volume,  with  many  Wood-Cuts,  extra  cloth. 

“  Chemistry  is  assuredly  one  of  the  most  useful  and  interesting  of  the  natural  sciences.  Chemical 
changes  meet  us  at  every  step,  and  during  every  season,  the  winds  and  the  rain,  the  heat,  and-  the 
frosts,  each  have  their  peculiar  and  appropriate  phenomena.  And  those  who  have  hitherto  re¬ 
mained  insensible  to  these  changes  and  unmoved  amid^such  remarkable,  and  often  startling  re¬ 
sults  will  lose  their  apathy  upon  reading  the  Chemistry  of  the  Four  Seasons,  and  be  prepared-  to 
enjoy  the  highest  intellectual  pleasures.  Conceived  in  a  happy  spirit,  and  written  with-  taste  and 
elegance,  the  essay  of  Mr.  Griffiths  cannot  fail  to  receive  the  admiration  of  cultivated  minds ;  and 
those  who  have  looked  less  carefully  into  nature’s  beauties,  will  find  themselves  led  on  step  by 
step,  until  they  realize  a  new  intellectual  being.  Such  works,  we  believe,  exert  a  happy  influence 
over  society,  and  hence  we  hope  that  the  present  one  may  be  extensively  read.  — Hie  Western 
Lancet. 


LEA  AND  BLANCHARD’S  PUBLICATIONS. 

POPULAR  SCIENCE. 

KIRBY  AND  SPENCE’S  ENTOMOLOGY,  FOR  POPULAR  USE. 

JkN  INTRODUCTION  TO  ENTOMOLOGY; 

OR,  ELEMENTS  OF  THE  NATURAL  HISTORY  OF  INSECTS:  COMPRISING  AN  ACCOUNT 
OF  NOXIOUS  AND  USEFUL  INSECTS,  OF  TIIEIR  METAMORPHOSES,  FOOD, 
STRATAGEMS,  HABITATIONS,  SOCIETIES,  MOTIONS,  NOISES, 
HYBERNATION,  INSTINCT,  Ac.,  Ac. 

With  Plates,  Plain  or  Colored. 

BY  WILLIAM  KIRBY,  M.A.,F.R.S.,  AND  WILLIAM  SPENCE,  ESQ.,  F.R.S. 

FROM  THE  SIXTH  LONDON  EDITION,  WHICH  WAS  CORRECTED  AND  CONSIDERABLY  ENLARGED. 

In  one  large  octavo  volume,  extra  cloth. 

“  We  have  been  greatly  interested  in  running  over  the  pages  of  this  treatise.  There  is  scarcely,  in 
the  wide  range  of  "natural  science,  a  more  interesting  or  instructive  study  than  that  of  insects,  or 
one  than  is  calculated  to  excite  more  curiosity  or  wonder. 

“  The  popular  form  of  letters  is  adopted  by  the  authors  in  imparting  a  knowledge  of  the  subject, 
which  renders  the  work  peculiarly  fitted  for  our  district  school  libraries,  which  are  open  to  all  ages 
and  classes.” — Hunt's  Merchants’  Magazine. 


ANSTEB’S 


ANCIENT 

JUST  ISSUED. 


WORLD. 


THE  ANCIENT  WORLD,  OR,  PICTURESQUE  SKETCHES  OF  CREATION. 

BY  D.  T.  ANSTED,  M.A.,  F.R.S.,  F.G.S.,  &c. 

PROFESSOR  OF  GEOLOGY  IN  KING’S  COLLEGE,  LONDON. 

In  one  very  neat  volume,  fine  extra  cloth,  with  about  One  Hundred  and  Fifty  Illustrations. 

The  object  of  this  work  is  to  present  to  the  general  reader  the  chief  results  of  Geological  investi¬ 
gation  in  a  simple  and  comprehensive  manner.  The  author  has  avoided  all  minute  details  of  geo¬ 
logical  formations  and  particular  observations,  and  has  endeavoured  as  far  as  possible  to  present 
striking  views  of  the  wonderful  results  of  the  science,  divested  of  its  mere  technicalities.  The 
work  is  got  up  in  a  handsome  manner,  with  numerous  illustrations,  and  forms  a  neat  volume  for  the 
centre  table. 

GEOLOGY  AND  MINERALOGY, 

WITH  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR  THE  QUALITATIVE  ANALYSIS  OF  MINERALS. 

BY  JOSHUA  TRIMMER,  F.  G.  S. 

With  two  Hundred  and  Twelve  Wood-Cuts,  a  handsome  octavo  volume,  bound  in  embossed  cloth. 

This  is  a  systematic  introduction  to  Mineralogy,  and  Geology,  admirably  calculated  to  instruct 
the  student  in  those  sciences.  The  organic  remains  of  the  various  formations  are  well  illustrated 
by  numerous  figures,  which  are  drawn  with  great  accuracy. 

NEW  AND  COMPLETE  MEDICAL  BOTANY. 

NOW  READY. 


MEDICAL  BOTANY, 

OR,  A  DESCRIPTION  OF  ALL  THE  MORE  IMPORTANT  PLANTS  USED  IN  MEDICINE. 
AND  OF  THEIR  PROPERTIES,  USES  AND  MODES  OF  ADMINISTRATION. 

BY  It.  EGLESPELI)  GRIFFITH,  M.D.,  &c,  &e. 

In  one  large  octavo  volume.  With  about  three  hundred  and  fifty  Illustrations  on  Wood. 

A  POPULAR  TREATISE  ON  VEGETABLE  PHYSIOLOGY; 

PUBLISHED  UNDER  THE  AUSPICES  OF  THE  SOCIETY  FOR  THE  PROMOTION  OF 
POPULAR  INSTRUCTION;  WITH  NUMEROUS  WOOD-CUTS. 

BY  W.  B.  CARPENTER. 

In  one  volume,  12mo.,  extra  cloth. 

A  TREATISE  ON  COMPARATIVE  ANATOMY  AND  PHYSIOLOGY, 

BY  W.  B.  CARPE  NT  E  R. 

REVISED  AND  MUCH  IMPROVED  BY  THE  AUTHOR.  WITH  BEAUTIFUL  STEEL  PLATES. 

(Now  preparing.) 

CAEPENTERJS  ANIMAL  PHYSIOLOGY, 

WITH  ABOUT  THREE  HUNDRED  WOOD-CUTS.  7 

(Preparing.) 


LEA  AND  BLANCHARD’S  PUBLICATIONS. 


HUMAN  HEALTH: 

OR,  THE  INFLUENCE  OF  ATMOSPHERE  AND  LOCALITY,  CHANGE  OF  AIR  AND 
CLIMATE,  SEASONS,  FOOD,  CLOTHING,  BATHING,  MINERAL  SPRINGS, 
EXERCISE,  SLEEP,  CORPOREAL  AND  MENTAL  PUR¬ 
SUITS,  &c.,  &c.,  ON  HEALTHY  MAN, 

CONSTITUTING  ELEMENTS  OF  HYGIENE. 

BY  ROBLEY  DUNGLISON,  M.  D.,  &c.,  &c. 

In  one  octavo  volume. 

%*  Persons  in  the  pursuit  of  health,  as  well  as  those  who  desire  to  retain 
it,  would  do  well  to  examine  this  work.  The  author  states  the  work  has 
been  prepared  “to  enable  the  general  reader  to  understand  the  nature  of 
the  actions  of  various  influences  on  human  health,  and  assist  him  in  adopt¬ 
ing  such  means  as  may  tend  to  its  preservation:  hence  the  author  has 
avoided  introducing  technicalities,  except  where  they  appeared  to  him  indis¬ 
pensable.” 

REMARKS  ON  THE  INFLUENCE  OF  MENTAL  EXCITEMENT, 

AND  MENTAL  CULTIVATION  UPON  HEALTH.. 

BY  A.  BRIGHAM,  3YE .  D. 

Third  edition  ;  one  volume,  18mo. 

A  TREATISE  ON 

CORNS,  BUNIONS,  THE  DISEASES  OF  THE  NiilDS, 

AND  THE  GENERAL  MANAGEMENT  OF  THE  FEET. 

BY  LEWIS  DURLACHER, 


SURGEON  CHIROPODIST  TO  THE  QUEEN. 

Iu  one  duodecimo  volume,  cloth. 


BRIDGEWATER  TREATISES. 

The  whole  complete  in  7  vols.  8vo.,  various  bindings, 

CONTAINING: 

ROGET’S  ANIMAL  AND  VEGETABLE  PHYSIOLOGY,  in  2  vols.,  with  many  cuts. 

KIRBY  ON  THE  HISTORY,  HABITS  AND  INSTINCT  OF  ANIMALS,  1  vol.,  with  plates. 

PROUT  ON  CHEMISTRY— CHALMERS  ON  THE  MORAL  CONDITION  OF  MAN— WHEWELL 
ON  ASTRONOMY— BELL  ON  1'HE  HAND— KIDD  ON  THE  PHYSICAL  CONDITION  OF 
MAN,  2  volumes. 

BUCKLAND’S  GEOLOGY,  2  vols.,  with  numerous  plates  and  maps. 

Roget,  Buckland,  and  Kirby  are  sold  separate. 

THE  DOMESTIC  MANAGEMENT  OF  THE  SICK  ROOM, 

NECESSARY,  IN  AID  OF  MEDICAL  TREATMENT,  FOR  THE  CURE  OF  DISEASES. 

BY  A.  T.  THOMSON,  M.  D.,  &c.  &c. 

First  American,  from  the  Second  London  Edition.  Edited  by  R.  E.  Griffith,  M.  D. 
In  one  royal  12mo.  volume,  extra  cloth,  with  cuts. 

“  There  is  no  interference  with  the  duties  of  the  medical  attendant,  but  sound,  sensible,  and 
clear  advice  what  to  do,  and  how  to  act,  so  as  to  meet  unforeseen  emergencies,  and  co-operate 
with  professional  skill.” — Literary  Gazette. 

THE  MILLWRIGHT  AND  MILLER’S  GUIDE. 

BY  OLIVER  EVANS. 

THE  TWELFTH  EDITION, 

WITH  ADDITIONS  AND  CORRECTIONS,  BY  THE  PROFESSOR  OF  MECHA¬ 
NICS  IN  THE  FRANKLIN  INSTITUTE  OF  PENNSYLVANIA, 

AND  A  DESCRIPTION  OF  AN  IMPROVED  MERCHANT  FLOUR  MILL. 

WITH  ENGRAVINGS. 

BY  C.  &  O.  EVANS,  ENGINEERS. 

This  is  a  practical  work,,  and  has  had  a  very  extended  sale. 


LEA  AND  BLANCHARD’S  PUBLICATIONS. 


JOHNSON  AND  LANDRETH  ON  FRUIT,  KITCHEN, 
AND  FLOWER  GARDENING. 

A  DICTIONARY  OF  MODERN  GARDENING, 

BY  GEORGE  WILLIAM  JOHNSON,  ESQ. 

Author  of  the  “  Principles  of  Practical  Gardening,”  “  The  Gardener’s  Almanac,”  Ac. 

WITH  ONE  HUNDRED  AND  EIGHTY  WOOD-CUTS. 

EDITED,  WITH  NUMEROUS  ADDITIONS,  BY  DAVID  LANDRETH,  OF  PHILADELPHIA. 

In  one  large  royal  duodecimo  volume,  extra  cloth,  of  nearly  Six  Hundred  and  Fifty 

double  columned  Pages. 

This  edition  has  been  greatly  altered  from  the  original.  Many  articles  of  little  interest  to  Ameri¬ 
cans  have  been  curtailed  or  wholly  omitted,  and  much  new  matter,  with  numerous  illustrations, 
added,  especially  with  respect  to  the  varieties  of  fruit  which  experience  has  shown  to  be  peculiarly 
adapted  to  our  climate.  Still,  the  editor  admits  that  lie  has  only  followed  in  the  path  so  admirably 
marked  out  by  Mr.  Johnson,  to  whom  the  chief  merit  of  the  work  belongs.  It  has  been  an  object 
with  the  editor  and  publishers  to  increase  its  popular  character,  thereby  adapting  it  to  the  larger 
class  of  horticultural  readers  in  this  country,  and  they  trust  it  will  prove  what  they  have  desired  it 
to  be,  an  Encyclopaedia  of  Gardening,  if  not  of  Rural  Affairs,  so  condensed  and  at  such  a  price  as  to 
be  within  reach  of  nearly  all  whom  those  subjects  interest. 

“  This  is  a  useful  compendium  of  all  that  description  of  information  which  is  valuable  to  the 
modern  gardener.  It  quotes  largely  from  the  best  standard  authors,  journals,  and  transactions  of 
societies;  and  the  labours  of  the  American  editor  have  fitted  it  for  the  United  States,  by  judicious 
additions  and  omissions.  The  volume  is  abundantly  illustrated  with  figures  in  the  text,  embracing 
a  judicious  selection  of  those  varieties  of  fruits  which  experience  has  shown  to  be  well  suited  to  the 
United  States. — Silliman’s  Journal. 

“  This  is  the  most  valuable  work  we  have  ever  seen  on  the  subject  of  gardening;  and  no  man  of 
taste  who  can  devote  even  a  quarter  of  an  acre  to  horticulture  ought  to  be  without  it.  Indeed  la¬ 
dies  who  merely  cultivate  flowers  within-doors,  will  find  this  book  an  excellent  and  convenient 
counsellor.  It  contains  one  hundred  and  eighty  wood-cut  illustrations,  which  give  a  distinct  idea 
of  the  fruits  and  garden-arrangements  they  are  intended  to  represent. 

“  Johnson’s  Dictionary  of  Gardening,  edited  bv  Landreth,  is  handsomely  printed,  well-bound,  and 
sold  at  a  price  which  puts  it  witliin  the  reach  of  all  who  would  be  likely  to  buy  it.” — Evergreen. 


THE  COMPLETE  FLORIST. 

ji.  x<EAirrr.&.x.  or  g-.&rbem’setg, 

CONTAINING  PRACTICAL  INSTRUCTION  FOR  THE  MANAGEMENT  OF  GREENHOUSE 
PLANTS,  AND  FOR  THE  CULTIVATION  OF  THE  SHRUBBERY-THE  FLOWER 
GARDEN,  AND  THE  LAWN— WITH  DESCRIPTIONS  OF  THOSE  PLANTS 
AND  TREES  MOST  WORTH  V  OF  CULTURE  IN  EACH 
DEPARTMENT. 

WITH  ADDITIONS  AND  AMEETDIsTEKTS, 

ADAPTED  TO  THE  CLIMATE  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


In  one  small  volume.  Price  only  Twenty-five  Cents. 


THE  COMPLETE  KITCHEN  AND  FRUIT  GARDENER. 

A  SELECT  MANUAL  OF  KITCHEN  GARDENING, 

AND  THE  CULTURE  OF  FRUITS, 

CONTAINING  FAM1LTAR  DIRECTIONS  FOR  THE  MOST  APPROVED  PRACTICE  IN  EACH 
DEPARTMENT,  DESCRIPTIONS  OF  MANY  VALUABLE  FRUITS,  AND  A 
CALENDAR  OF  WORK  TO  BE  PERFORMED  EACH 
MONTH  IN  THE  YEAR. 

THE  WHOLE  ADAPTED  TO  THE  CLIMATE  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

In  one  small  volume,  paper.  Price  only  Twenty-five  Cents. 

LANBRETI-FS  RURAL  REGISTER  AND  ALMANAC,  FOR  1348, 

WITH  NUMEROUS  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


STILL  ON  HAND, 

A  FEW  COPIES  OF  THE  REGISTER  FOR  1347, 

WITH  OVER  ONE  HUNDRED  WOOD-CUTS. 

This  work  has  150  large  12mo.  pages,  double  columns.  Though  published  annually,  and  contain¬ 
ing  an  almanac,  the  principal  part  of  the  matter  is  of  permanent  utility  to  the  horticulturist  and 
farmer. 


LEA  AND  BLANCHARD’S  PUBLICATIONS. 


YOUATT  AND  SKINNER’S 

STANDARD  WORK  ON  THE  MORSE. 


THE  HORSE. 

BY  WILLIAM  YOUATT. 

A  NEW  EDITION,  WITH  NUMEROUS  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

TOGETHER  WITH  A 

GENERAL  HISTORY  OF  THE  HORSE; 

.  ^  ^  \  v  •-  '  ..  V 

A  DISSERTATION  ON 

THE  AMERICAN  TROTTING  HORSE; 

HOW  TRAINED  AND  JOCKEYED. 

AN  ACCOUNT  OF  HIS  REMARKABLE  PERFORMANCES; 

AND 

AM  ESSAY  ©M  THE  AS 3  AW D  THE  MITRE, 

BY  J.  S.  SKINNER, 

Assistant  Post-Master-General,  and  Editor  of  the  Turf  Register. 

This  edition  of  Youatt’s  well-known  and  standard  work  on  the  Manage¬ 
ment,  Diseases,  and  Treatment  of  the  Horse,  has  already  obtained  such  a 
wide  circulation  throughout  the  country,  that  the  Publishers  need  say  no¬ 
thing  to  attract  to  it  the  attention  and  confidence  of  all  who  keep  Horses  or 
are  interested  in  their  improvement. 

“  In  introducing  this  very  neat  edition  of  Youatt’s  well-known  book,  on  ‘  The  Horse,’  to  our 
readers,  it  is  not  necessary,  even  if  we  had  time,  to  say  anything  to  convince  them  of  its  worth ;  it 
has  been  highly  spoken  of,  by  those  most  capable  of  appreciating  its  merits,  and  its  appearance 
under  the  patronage  of  the  ‘Society  for  the  Diffusion  of  Useful  Knowledge,’  with  Lord  Brougham 
at  its  head,  affords  a  full  guaranty  for  its  high  character.  The  book  is  a  very  valuable  one,  and  we 
endorse  the  recommendation  of  the  editor,  that  every  man  who  owns  the  ‘  hair  of  a  horse,’  should 
have  it  at  his  elbow,  to  be  consulted  like  a  family  physician,  ‘  for  mitigating  the  disorders,  and  pro¬ 
longing  the  life  of  the  most  interesting  and  useful  of  all  domestic  animals.’  ” — Farmer's  Cabinet. 

“  This  celebrated  work  has  been  completely  revised,  and  much  of  it  almost  entirely  re-written 
by  its  able  author,  who,  from  being  a  practical  veterinary  surgeon,  and  withal  a  great  lover  and 
excellent  judge  of  the  animal,  is  particularly  well  qualified  to  write  the  history  of  the  noblest  of 
quadrupeds.  Messrs.  Lea  and  Blanchard  of  Philadelphia  have  republished  the  above  work,  omitting 
a  few  of  the  first  pages,  and  have  supplied  their  place  with  matter  quite  as  valuable,  and  perhaps 
more  interesting  to  the  reader  in  this  country ;  it  being  nearly  100  pages  of  a  general  history  of  the 
horse,  a  dissertation  on  the  American  trotting  horse,  how  trained  and  jockeyed,  an  account  of  his 
remarkable  performances,  and  an  essay  on  the  Ass  and  Mule,  by  J.  S.  Skinner,  Esq.,  Assistant  Post¬ 
master-General,  and  late  editor  of  the  Turf  Register  and  American  Farmer.  Mr.  Skinner  is  one 
of  our  most  pleasing  writers,  and  has  been  familiar  with  the  subject  of  the  horse  from  childhood, 
and  we  need  not  add  that  he  has  acquitted  himself  well  of  the  task.  He  also  takes  up  the  import¬ 
ant  subject,  to  the  American  breeder,  of  the  Ass,  and  the  Mule.  This  he  treats  at  length  and  con 
amore.  The  Philadelphia  edition  of  the  Horse  is  a  handsome  octavo,  with  numerous  wood-cuts.”— 
American  Agriculturist. 


LEA  AND  BLANCHARD’S  PUBLICATIONS. 


YOUATT  ON  THE  PIG. 


THE!  PIG-; 

A  TREATISE  ON  THE  BREEDS,  MANAGEMENT,  FEEDING, 
AND  MEDICAL  TREATMENT  OF  SWINE, 

WITH  DIRECTIONS  FOR  SALTING  FORK,  AND  CURING  BACON  AND  HAMS. 

BY  WILLIAM  YOUATT,  V.S. 

Author  of  “The  Horse,”  “The  Dog,”  “Cattle,”  “  Sheep,”  &c.,  &c. 

ILLUSTRATED  WITH  ENGRAVINGS  DRAWN  FROM  LIFE  BY  WILLIAM  HARVEY. 

In  one  handsome  duodecimo  volume,  extra  eloth,  or  in  neat  paper  cover,  price  50  cents. 

This  work,  on  a  subject  comparatively  neglected,  must  prove  of  much  use  to  farmers,  especially 
in  this  country,  where  the  Pig  is  an  animal  of  more  importance  than  elsewhere.  No  work  has 
hitherto  appeared  treating  fully  of  the  various  breeds  of  swine,  their  diseases  and  cure,  breeding, 
fattening,  &c.,  and  the  preparation  of  bacon,  salt  pork,  hams,  Ac.,  while  the  name  of  the  author  of 
“  The  Horse,”  “  The  Cattle  Doctor,”  Ac.,  is  sufficient  authority  for  all  he  may  state.  To  render  it 
more  accessible  to  those  whom  it  particularly  interests,  the  publishers  have  prepared  copies  in 
neat  illustrated  paper  covers,  suitable  for  transmission  by  mail ;  and  which  will  be  sent  through 
the  post-office  on  the  receipt  of  fifty  cents,  free  of  postage. 

CLATER  AND  YOUATT’S  CATTLE  DOCTOR. 


EVERY  MAN  HIS  OWN  CATTLE  DOCTOR: 

CONTAINING  THE  CAUSES,  SYMPTOMS  AND  TREATMENT  OF  ALL 
DISEASES  INCIDENT  TO  OXEN,  SHEEP  AND  SWINE; 

AND  A  SKETCH  OF  THE 

ANATOMY  AND  PHYSIOLOGY  OF  NEAT  CATTLE. 

BY  FRANCIS  OLATER. 

EDITED,  REVISED  AND  ALMOST  RE-WRITTEN,  BY 

WILLIAM  YOUATT,  AUTHOR  OF  “THE  HORSE.” 

WITH  NUMEROUS  ADDITIONS, 

EMBRACING  AN  ESSAY  ON  THE  USE  OF  OXEN  AND  THE  IMPROVEMENT  IN  THE 

BREED  OF  SHEEP, 

BY  J.  S.  SKINNER. 

WITH  NUMEROUS  CUTS  AND  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

In  one  12mo.  volume,  cloth. 

“As  its  title  would  import,  it  is  a  most  valuable  work,  and  should  be  in  the  hands  of  every  Ame¬ 
rican  farmer;  and  we  feel  proud  in  saying,  that  the  value  of  the  work  has  been  greatly  enhanced 
by  the  contributions  of  Mr.  Skinner.  Clater  and  Youatt  are  names  treasured  by  the  farming  com¬ 
munities  of  Europe  as  household-gods  ;  nor  does  that  of  Skinner  deserve  to  be  less  esteemed  in 
America.” — American  Farmer. 


CLATER’S  FARRIER. 


EVERY  MAN  HIS  OWN  FARRIER: 

CONTAINING  THE  CAUSES,  SYMPTOMS,  AND  MOST  APPROVED  METHODS  OF  CURE 

OF  THE  DISEASES  OF  HORSES. 

BTT  FRANCIS  CLATER, 

Author  of  “  Every  Man  his  own  Cattle  Doctor,” 

AND  HIS  SON,  JOHN  CLATER. 

FIRST  AMERICAN  FROM  THE  TWENTY-EIGHTH  LONDON  EDITION. 

WITH  NOTES  AND  ADDITIONS, 

B  Y  J.  S.  SKINNER. 

In  one  I2mo.  volume,  cloth. 


( 


LEA  AND  BLANCHARD’S  PUBLICATIONS. 

HAWKER  AND  PORTER  ON  SHOOTING, 

INSTRUCTIONS  TO  YOUNG  SPORTSMEN 

IN  ALL  THAT  RELATES  TO  GUNS  AND  SHOOTING. 

BY  LIEUT.  COL.  P.  HAWKER. 

FROM  THE  ENLARGED  AND  IMPROVED  NINTH  LONDON  EDITION. 

TO  WHICH  IS  ADDED  THE  HUNTING  AND  SHOOTING  OF  NORTH  AMERICA.  WITH 
DESCRIPTIONS  OF  ANIMALS  AND  BIRDS,  CAREFULLY  COLLATED 
FROM  AUTHENTIC  SOURCES. 

BY  W.  T.  PORTER,  ESQ,. 

EDITOR  OF  THE  N.  Y.  SPIRIT  OF  THE  TIMES. 

In  one  large  octavo  volume,  rich  extra  cloth,  with  numerous  Illustrations. 

“  Here  is  a  book,  a  hand-book,  or  rather  a  text-book — one  that  contains  the  whole  routine  of  the 
science.  It  is  the  Primer,  the  Lexicon,  and  the  Homer.  Everything  is  here,  from  the  minutest 
portion  of  a  gun-lock,  to  a  dead  Buffalo.  The  sportsman  who  reads  this  book  understandingly.may 
pass  an  examination.  He  will  know  the  science,  and  may  give  advice  to  others.  Every  sportsman, 
and  sportsmen  are  plentiful,  should  own  this  work.  It  should  be  a  “  vade  mecum.”  He  should 
be  examined  on  its  contents,  and  estimated  by  his  abilities  to  answer.  We  have  not  been  without 
treatises  on  the  art,  but  hitherto  they  have  not  descended  into  all  the  minutiae  of  equipments  and 
qualifications  to  proceed  to  the  completion.  This  work  supplies  deficiencies,  and  completes  the 
sportsman’s  library.” — U.  S.  Gazette. 

“  No  man  in  the  country  that  we  wot  of  is  so  well  calculated  as  our  friend  of  the  ‘  Spirit’  for  the 
task  he  has  undertaken,  and  the  result  of  his  labours  has  been  that  he  has  turned  out  a  work  which 
should  be  in  the  hands  of  every  man  in  the  land  who  owns  a  double-barrelled  gun.” — N.  O.  Picayune. 

“  A  volume  splendidly  printed  and  bound,  and  embellished  with  numerous  beautiful  engravings, 
which  will  doubtless  be  in  great  demand.  No  sportsman,  indeed,  ought  to  be  without  it,  while  the 
general  reader  will  find  in  its  pages  a  fund  of  curious  and  useful  information.”— Richmond  Whig. 

. Y  o  uXt't  o  n  t'ijTu^iT o' 


B  Y 


TUB  BOG-, 

WILLIAM  YOUATT, 

Author  of  “  The  Horse,”  Ac. 


WITH  NUMEROUS  AND  BEAUTIFUL  ILLUSTRATIONS. 
EDITED  BY  E.  J.  LEWIS,  M.  D.  &c.  &c. 

In  one  beautifully  printed  volume,  crown  octavo. 

LIST  OF  PLATES. 

Head  of  Bloodhound— Ancient  Greyhounds — The  Thibet,  Dog — The  Dingo,  or  New  Holland  Dog — 
The  Danish  or  Dalmatian  Dog— The  Hare  Indian  Dog — The  Greyhound— The  Grecian  Greyhound 
—Blenheims  and  Cockers— The  Water  Spaniel — The  Poodle — The  Alpine  Spaniel  or  Bernardine 
Dog— The  Newfoundland  Dog — The  Esquimaux  Dog—1 The  English  Sheep  Dog — The  Scotch  Sheep 
Dog- — The  Beagle — The  Harrier — The  Foxhound — Plan  of  Goodwood  Kennel — The  Southern 
Hound — The  Setter — The  Pointer — The  Bull  Dog — The  Mastiff— The  Terrier— Skeleton  of  the 
Dog-Teeth  of  the  Dog  at  seven  different  ages. 

“  Mr.  Youatt’s  work  is  invaluable  to  the  student  of  canine  history;  it  is  full  of  entertaining  and 
instructive  matter  for  the  general  reader.  To  the  sportsman  it  commends  itself  by  the  large  amount 
of  useful  information  in  reference  to  his  peculiar  pursuits  which  it  embodies— information  which 
he  cannot  find  elsewhere  in  so  convenient  and  accessible  a  form,  and  with  so  reliable  an  authority 
to  entitle  it  to  his  consideration.  The  modest  preface  which  Dr.  Lewis  has  made  to  the  American 
edition  of  this  work  scarcely  does  justice  to  the  additional  value  he  has  imparted  to  it;  and  the 
publishers  are  entitled  to  great  credit  for  the  handsome  manner  in  which  they  have  got  it  up.” — 
North  American. _ _ _ _ _ 

T  SI  E  SPOHTsiii’S  LIBRARY, 

OR  HINTS  ON  HUNTERS,  HUNTING,  HOUNDS,  SHOOTING,  GAME,  DOGS,  GUNS, 

FISHING,  COURSING,  Ac.,  Ac. 

BY  JOHN  MILLS,  ESQ., 

Author  of  “  The  Old  English  Gentleman,”  Ac. 

In  one  well  printed  royal  duodecimo  volume,  extra  cloth. 

STABLE  TALK  AND  TABLE  TALK, 

OR  SPECTACLES  FOR  YOUNG  SPORTSMEN. 

BY  HARRY  HIEOVER. 

In  one  very  neat  duodecimo  volume,  extra  cloth. 

“These  lively  sketches  answer  to  their  title  very  well.  Wherever  Nimrod  is  welcome,  there 
should  be  cordial  greeting  for  Harry  Hieover.  His  book  is  a  very  clever  one,  and  contains  many 
instructive  hints,  as  well  as  much  light-hearted  reading.” — Examiner. 

THU  BOG  AND  THE  SPORT  SB!  AN, 

EMBRACING  THE  USES,  BREEDING,  TRAINING,  DISEASES,  ETC.,  OF  DOGS,  AND  AN 
ACCOUNT  OF  THE  DIFFERENT  KINDS  OF  GAME,  WITH  THEIR  HABITS. 

Also,  Hints  to  Shooters,  with  various  useful  Recipes,  &c., 

BY  J.  S.  SKINNER. 

With  Plates.  In  one  very  neat  12mo.  volume,  extra  cloth. 


LEA  AND  BLANCHARD’S,  PUBLICATIONS. 


FRAHCATELLTS  MODERN  FRENCH  COOKERY. 

THE  MODERN  COOK, 

A  PRACTICAL  GUIDE  TO  THE  CULINARY  ART,  IN  ALL  ITS  BRANCHES,  ADAPTED  AS 
WELL  FOR  THE  LARGEST  ESTABLISHMENTS  AS  FOR  TF1E  USE 
OF  PRIVATE  FAMILIES. 

BY  CHARLES  ELME  FRANCATELLI, 

Pupil  of  the  celebrated  Careme,  and  late  Maitre  D’Hotel  and  Chief  Cook  to  her  Majesty  the  Queen. 

In  one  large  octavo  volume,  extra  cloth,  with  numerous  illustrations. 

“  It  appears  to  be  the  book  of  books  on  cookery,  being  a  most  comprehensive  treatise  on  that  art 
preservative  and  conservative.  The  work  comprises,  in  one  large  and  elegant  octavo  volume,  1447 
recipes  for  cooking  dishes  and  desserts,  with  numerous  illustrations ;  also  bills  of  fare  and  direc¬ 
tions  for  dinners  for  every  month  in  the  year,  for  companies  of  six  persons  to  twenty-eight. — Nat. 
Intelligencer. 

“The  ladies  who  read  our  Magazine,  will  thank  us  for  calling  attention  to  this  great  work  on  the 
noble  science  of  cooking,  in  which  everybody,  who  has  any  taste,  feels  a  deep  and  abiding  interest. 
Francatelli  is  the  Plato,  the  Shakspeare,  or  the  Napoleon  of  his  department;  or  perhaps  the  La 
Place,  for  his  performance  bears  the  same  relation  to  ordinary  cook  books  that  the  Mecanique 
Celeste  does  to  Daboll’s  Arithmetic.  It  is  a  large  octavo,  profusely  illustrated,  and  contains  every¬ 
thing  on  the  philosophy  of  making  dinners,  suppers,  etc.,  that  is  worth  knowing. — Graham's  Magazine. 

Esommxr  cooxsav  ist  all  its  Enn.ircH.'ss, 

REDUCED  TO  A  SYSTEM  OF  EASY  PRACTICE.  FOR  THE  USE  OF  PRIVATE  FAMILIES. 
IN  A  SERIES  OF  PRACTICAL  PECEIPTS,  ALL  OF  WHICH  ARE  GIVEN 
WITH  THE  MOST  MINUTE  EXACTNESS. 

BY  ELIZA  ACTON. 

WITH  NUMEROUS  WOOD-CUT  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

TO  WHICH  IS  ADDED,  A  TABLE  OF  WEIGHTS  AND  MEASURES. 

THE  WHOLE  REVISED  AND  PREPARED  FOR  AMERICAN  HOUSEKEEPERS. 

BY  MRS.  SARAH  J.  HALE. 

From  the  Second  London  Edition.  In  one  large  12mo.  volume. 

“  Miss  Eliza  Acton  may  congratulate  herself  on  having  composed  a  work  of  great  utility,  and  one 
that  is  speedily  finding  its  way  to  every  ‘dresser’  in  the  kingdom.  Her  Cookery-book  is  unques¬ 
tionably  the  most  valuable  compendium  of  the  art  that  has  yet  been  published.  It  strongly  incul¬ 
cates  economical  principles,  and  points  out  how  good  things  may  be  concocted  without  that  reck¬ 
less  extravagance  which  good  cooks  have  been  wont  to  imagine  the  best  evidence  they  can  give  of 
skill  in  their  profession.” — London  Morning  Post. 

~Th7^ 

PLAIN  AND  PRACTICAL  DIRECTIONS  FOR  COOKING  AND  HOUSEKEEPING, 

WITH  UPWARDS  OF  SEVEN  HUNDRED  RECEIPTS, 

Consisting  of  Directions  for  the  Choice  of  Meat  and  Poultry,  Preparations  for  Cooking;  Making  of 
Broths  and  Soups  ;  Boiling,  Roasting,  Baking  and  Frying  of  Meats,  Fish,  &c. ;  Seasonings, 
Colorings,  Cooking  Vegetables ;  Preparing  Salads ;  Clarifying ;  Making  of  Pastry, 
Puddings,  Gruels,  Gravies,  Garnishes,  &c.,  & c.,  and  with  general 
Directions  for  making  Wines. 

WITH  ADDITIONS  AND  ALTERATIONS. 

BY  J.  M.  SANDERSON, 

OF  THE  FRANKLIN  HOUSE. 

In  one  small  volume,  paper.  Price  only  Twenty-five  Cents 

THE  C 0 1V1P L ET ECO N FECI lONE RPASTRYCO 0 K  AND  BAKER. 

PLAIN  AND  PRACTICAL  DIRECTIONS 

FOR  MAKING  CONFECTIONARY  AND  PASTRY,  AND  FOR  BAKING. 

WITH  UPWARDS  OF  FIVE  HUNDRED  RECEIPTS, 

Consisting  of  Directions  for  making  all  sorts  of  Preserves,  Sugar  Boiling,  Comfits,  Lozenges, 
Ornamental  Cakes,  Ices,  Liqueurs,  Waters,  Gum  Paste  Ornaments,  Syrups,  Jellies, 
Marmalades,  Compotes,  Bread  Baking,  Artificial  Yeasts,  Fancy 
Biscuits,  Cakes,  Rolls,  Muffins,  Tarts,  Pies,  Ac.,  &c. 

WITH  ADDITIONS  AND  ALTERATIONS. 

BY  PARKINSON, 

PRACTICAL  CONFECTIONER,  CHESTNUT  STREET. 

In  one  small  volume,  paper.  Price  only  Twenty-five  Cents. 


LEA  AND  BLANCHARD’S  PUBLICATIONS. 


SCHOOL  BOOKS. 


SCHMITZ  AND  ZUMPT’S  CLASSICAL  SERIES. 

VOLUME  I. 

C.  JULII  CiESARIS 

COMMENTARII  DE  BELLO  GALLIC  O. 

WITH  AN  INTRODUCTION,  NOTES,  AND  A  GEOGRAPHICAL  INDEX  IN  ENGLISH, 

ALSO,  A  MAP  OF  GAUL,  AND  ILLUSTRATIVE  ENGRAVINGS. 

In  one  handsome  18mo.  volume,  extra  cloth. 

This  Series  has  been  placed  under  the  editorial  management  of  two  eminent  scholars 
and  practical  teachers,  Dr.  Schmitz,  Rector  of  the  High  School,  Edinburgh,  and  Dr. 
Zumpt,  Professor  in  the  University  of  Berlin,  and  will  combine  the  following  advan- 
tages 

1.  A  gradually  ascending  series  of  School  Books  on  a  uniform  plan,  so  as  to  constitute  within  a 
definite  number,  a  complete  Latin  Curriculum. 

2.  Certain  arrangements  in  the  rudimentary  volumes,  which  will  insure  a  fair  amount  of  know¬ 
ledge  in  Roman  literature  to  those  who  are  not  designed  for  professional  life,  and  who  therefore 
will  not  require  to  extend  their  studies  to  the  advanced  portion  of  the  series. 

3.  The  text  of  each  author  will  be  such  as  has  been  constituted  bv  the  most  recent  collations  of 
manuscripts,  and  will  be  prefaced  by  biographical  and  critical  sketches  in  English,  that  pupils  may 
be  made  aware  of  the  character  and  peculiarities  of  the  work  they  are  about  to  study. 

4.  To  remove  difficulties,  and  sustain  an  interest  in  the  text,  explanatory  notes  in  English  will 
be  placed  at  the  foot  of  each  page,  and  such  comparisons  drawn  as  may  serve  to  unite  the  history 
of  the  past  with  the  realities  of  modern  times. 

5.  The  works,  generally,  will  be  embellished  with  maps  and  illustrative  engravings,— accompani¬ 
ments  which  will  greatly  assist  the  student’s  comprehension  of  the  nature  of  the  countries  and 
leading  circumstances  described. 

6.  The  respective  volumes  will  be  issued  at  a  price  considerably  less  than  that  usually  charged  ; 
and  as  the  texts  are  from  the  most  eminent  sources,  and  the  whole  series  constructed  upon  a  de¬ 
terminate  plan,  the  practice  of  issuing  new  and  altered  editions,  which  is  complained  of  alike  by 
teachers  and  pupils,  will  be  altogether  avoided. 

From  among  the  testimonials  which  the  publishers  have  received,  they  append  the 
following  to  show  that  the  design  of  the  series  has  been  fully  and  successfully  carried 
out:— 

Central  High  School,  PhUa.,  June  29, 1847. 

Gentlemen : — 

I  have  been  much  pleased  with  your  edition  of  Caisar’s  Gallic  Wars,  being  part  of  Schmitz  and 
Zumpt’s  classical  series  for  schools.  The  work  seems  happily  adapted  to  the  wants  of  learners. 
The  notes  contain  much  valuable  information,  concisely  and  accurately  expressed,  and  on  the  points 
that  really  require  elucidation,  while  at  the  same  time  the  book  is  not  rendered  tiresome  and  ex¬ 
pensive  by  a  useless  array  of  mere  learning.  The  text  is  one  in  high  repute,  and  your  reprint  of  it 
is  pleasing  to  the  eye.  I  take  great  pleasure  in  commending  the  publication  to  the  attention  of 
teachers.  It  will,  I  am  persuaded,  commend  itself  to  all  who  give  it  a  fair  examination. 

Very  Respectfully,  Your  Obt.  Servt., 

JOHN  S.  HART, 

To  Messrs.  Lea  &  Blanchard.  Principal  Phila.  High  School. 


Gentlemen: —  June  28, 1847. 

The  edition  of  "Caesar’s  Commentaries,”  embraced  in  the  Classical  Section  of  Chambers’s  Edu¬ 
cational  Course,  and  given  to  the  world  under  the  auspices  of  Drs.  Schmitz  and  Zumpt  has  re¬ 
ceived  from  me  a  candid  examination.  I  have  no  hesitation  in  saying,  that  the  design  expressed  in 
the  notice  of  the  publishers,  has  been  successfully  accomplished,  and  that  the  work  is  well  calcu¬ 
lated  to  become  popular  and  useful.  The  text  appears  to  be  unexceptionable.  The  annotations 
embrace  in  condensed  form  such  valuable  information,  as  must  not  only  facilitate  the  research  of 
the  scholar,  but  also  stimulate  to  further  inquiry,  without  encouraging  indolence.  This  is  an  im¬ 
portant  feature  in  the  right  prosecution  of  classical  studies,  which  ought  to  be  more  generally  un¬ 
derstood  and  appreciated.  H.  HAVERSTICK, 

Prof,  of  Ancient  Languages,  Central  High  School,  Phila. 

^VWWS^VWWWWVWWVWWWWWWWWVWW\ 

VOLUME  II. 

P.  VIRGILII  MARONIS  CARMINA. 

NOW  READY. 


LEA  AND  BLANCHARD’S  PUBLICATIONS. 


SCHOOL  BOOKS. 

BIRD’S  NATURAL  PHILOSOPHY. 

NOW  KEADY. 

ELEMENTS  OF  NATURAL  PHILOSOPHY, 

BEING  AN  EXPERIMENTAL  INTRODUCTION  TO  THE  PHYSICAL  SCIENCES. 

ILLUSTRATED  WITH  OVER  THREE  HUNDRED  WOOD-CUTS. 

BY  GOLDING  BIRD,  M.D., 

Assistant  Physician  to  Guy’s  Hospital. 

FROM  THE  THIRD  LONDON  EDITION. 

In  one  neat  volume. 

"  By  the  appearance  of  Dr.  Bird’s  work,  the  student  has  now  all  that  he  can  desire  in  one  neat, 
concise,  and  well-digested  volume.  The  elements  of  natural  philosophy  are  explained  in  very  sim¬ 
ple  language,  and  illustrated  by  numerous  wood-cuts.” — Medical  Gazette. 


ARNOTT’S  PHYSICS. 


ELEMENTS  OF  PHYSICS;  OR,  NATURAL  PHILOSOPHY, 

GENERAL  AND  MEDICAL. 

WRITTEN  FOR  UNIVERSAL  USE,  IN  PLAIN,  OR  N ON-TECHNICAL  LANGUAGE. 

BY  NULL  ARNOTT,  3VI.D. 

A  NEW  EDITION,  BY  ISAAC  HAYS,  M.  D. 

Complete  in  one  octavo  volume,  with  nearly  two  hundred  wood-cuts. 

This  standard  work  has  been  long  and  favourably  known  as  one  of  the  best  popular  expositions 
of  the  interesting  science  it  treats  of.  It  is  extensively  used  in  many  of  the  first  seminaries. 

ELEMENTARY  CHEMISTRY,  THEORETICAL  AND  PRACTICAL. 

BY  GEORGE  POWNES,  Ph.  D, 

Chemical  Lecturer  in  the  Middlesex  Hospital  Medical  School,  &c.,  &c. 

WITH  NUMEROUS  ILLUSTRATIONS. 

EDITED,  WITH  ADDITIONS, 

BY  ROBERT  BRIDGES,  M.D., 

Professor  of  General  and  Pharmaceutical  Chemistry  in  the  Philadelphia  College  of  Pharmacy,  &c.,  Ac. 

SECOND  AMERICAN  EDITION. 

In  one  large  duodecimo  volume,  sheep  or  extra  cloth,  with  nearly  two 

hundred  wood-cuts. 

The  character  of  this  work  is  such  as  to  recommend  it  to  all  colleges  and  academies  in  want  of  a 
text-book.  It  is  fully  brought  up  to  the  day,  containing  all  the  late  views  and  discoveries  that  have 
so  entirely  changed  the  face  of  the  science,  and  it  is  completely  illustrated  with  very  numerous 
wood  engravings,  explanatory  of  all  the  different  processes  and  forms  of  apparatus.  Though  strictly 
scientific,  it  is  written  with  great  clearness  and  simplicity  of  style,  rendering  it  easy  to  be  compre¬ 
hended  by  those  who  are  commencing  the  study. 

It  may  be  had  well  bound  in.  leather,  or  neatly  done  up  in  strong  cloth.  Its  low  price  places  it 
within  the  reach  of  all. 

_____ 


ELEMENTS  OFOFTICS, 

BY  SIR  DAVID  BREWSTER. 

WITH  NOTES  AND  ADDITIONS,  BY  A.  D.  BACHE,  LL.D. 
Superintendent  of  the  Coast  Survey,  &c. 

In  one  volume,  12mo.,  with  numerous  wood-cuts. 


N 


LEA  AND  BLANCHARD’S  PUBLICATIONS. 


SCHOOL  BOOKS. 


BOLMAR’S  FRENCH  SERIES. 

New  editions  of  the  following  works,  by  A.  Bolmar,  forming,  in  con¬ 
nection  with  “Bolmar’s  Levizac,”  a  complete  series  for  the  acquisition  of 
the  French  language. 

A  SELECTION  OF  ONE  HUNDRED  PERRIN’S  FABLES, 

ACCOMPANIED  BY  A  KEY, 

Containing  the  text,  a  literal  and  free  translation,  arranged  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
point  out  the  difference  between  the  French  and  English  idiom,  &c.,  in  1  vol.,  12mo. 

A  COLLECTION  OF  COLLOQUIAL  PHRASES, 

ON  EVERY  TOPIC  NECESSARY  TO  MAINTAIN  CONVERSATION, 
Arranged  under  different  heads,  with  numerous  remarks  on  the  peculiar  pronunciation 
and  uses  of  various  words;  the  whole  so  disposed  as  considerably  to  facilitate  the 
acquisition  of  a  correct  pronunciation  of  the  French,  in  1  vol.,  18mo. 

LES  AVENTURES  DE  TELEMAQUE  PAR  FENELON, 

In  1  vol.,  12mo.,  accompanied  by  a  Key  to  the  first  eight  books,  in  1  vol.,  12mo.,  con¬ 
taining,  like  the  Fables,  the  text,  a  literal  and  free  translation,  intended  as  a  sequel 
to  the  Fables.  Either  volume  sold  separately. 

ALL  THE  FRENCH  VERBS, 

Both  regular  and  irregular,  in  a  small  volume. 

M  U  LLE  R^  S  P  H  Y  S  I  C  S 

NOW  READY. 


PRINCIPLES  OF  PHYSICS  AND  METEOROLOGY. 

BY  J.  MULLER, 

Professor  of  Physics  at  the  University  of  Frieburg. 

ILLUSTRATED  WITH  NEARLY  FIVE  HUNDRED  AND  FIFTY  ENGRAVINGS  ON  WOOD,  AND  TWO 

COLORED  PLATES. 

In  one  octavo  volume. 

This  Edition  is  improved  by  the  addition  of  various  articles,  and  will  be  found  in 
every  respect  brought  up  to  the  time  of  publication, 

“The  Physics  of  Muller  is  a  work,  superb,  complete,  unique :  the  greatest  want  known  to  Eng¬ 
lish  Science  could  not  have  been  better  supplied.  The  work  is  of  surpassing  interest.  The  value 
of  this  contribution  to  the  scientific  records  of  this  country  may  be  duly  estimated  by  the  fact,  that 
the  cost  of  the  original  drawings  and  engravings  alone  has  exceeded  the  sum  of  2000/1.” — Lancet, 
March,  1847. 


BUTLER’S  ANCIENT  ATLAS. 

AN  ATLAS  OF  ANCIENT  GEOGRAPHY, 

BY  SAMUEL  BUTLER,  D.D., 

Late  Lord  Bishop  of  Litchfield, 

CONTAINING  TWENTY-ONE  COLOURED  MAPS,  AND  A  COMPLETE  ACCENTUATED  INDEX. 

In  one  octavo  volume,  half-bound. 

BUTLER’S  ANCIENT  GEOGRAPHY. 

GEOGRAFHIA  CLASSIC  A, 

OR,  THE  APPLICATION  OF  ANCIENT  GEOGRAPHY  TO  THE  CLASSICS, 
BY  SAMUEL  BUTLER,  D.D.,  F.R.S. 

REVISED  BY  HIS  SON. 

FIFTH  AMERICAN,  FROM  THE  LAST  LONDON  EDITION, 

WITH  QUESTIONS  ON  THE  MAPS,  BY  JOHN  FROST. 

In  one  duodecimo  volume,  half-bound,  to  match  the  Atlas. 


LEA  AND  BLANCHARD’S  PUBLICATIONS. 


SCHOOL  BOOKS. 


WHITE’S  UNIVERSAL  HISTORY. 

LATELY  PUBLISHED, 

ELEMENTS  OF  UNIVERSAL  HISTORY, 

ON  A  NEW  AND  SYSTEMATIC  PLAN; 

FROM  THE  EARLIEST  TIMES  TO  THE  TREATY  OF  VIENNA ;  TO  WHICH  IS  ADDED  A 
SUMMARY  OF  THE  LEADING  EVENTS  SINCE  THAT  PERIOD,  FOR  THE 
USE  OF  SCHOOLS  AND  PRIVATE  STUDENTS. 

BY  H.  WHITE,  B.A., 

TRINITY  COLLEGE,  CAMBRIDGE. 

WITH  ADDITIONS  AND  QUESTIONS, 

BY  JOHN  S.  HART,  A.M., 

Principal  of  the  Philadelphia  High  School,  and  Professor  of  Moral  and  Mental  Science,  <tc.,  Ac. 

In  one  volume,  large  duodecimo,  neatly  bound  with  Maroon  Backs. 

This  work  is  arranged  on  a  new  plan,  which  is  believed  to  combine  the 
advantages  of  those  formerly  in  use.  It  is  divided  into  three  parts,  corre¬ 
sponding  with  Ancient,  Middle,  and  Modern  History  ;  which  parts  are  again 
subdivided  into  centuries,  so  that  the  various  events  are  presented  in  the 
order  of  time,  while  it  is  so  arranged  that  the  annals  of  each  country  can  be 
read  consecutively,  thus  combining  the  advantages  of  both  the  plans  hitherto 
pursued  in  works  of  this  kind.  To  guide  the  researches  of  the  student, 
there  will  be  found  numerous  synoptical  tables,  with  remarks  and  sketches 
of  literature,  antiquities,  and  manners,  at  the  great  chronological  epochs. 

The  additions  of  the  American  editor  have  been  principally  confined  to 
the  chapters  on  the  history  of  this  country.  The  series  of  questions  by  him 
will  be  found  of  use  to  those  who  prefer  that  system  of  instruction.  For 
those  who  do  not,  the  publishers  have  had  an  edition  prepared  without  the 
questions. 

This  work  has  already  passed  through  several  editions,  and  has  been 
introduced  into  many  of  the  higher  Schools  and  Academies  throughout  the 
country.  From  among  numerous  recommendations  which  they  have  re¬ 
ceived,  the  publishers  annex  the  following  from  the  Deputy  Superintendent 
of  Common  Schools  for  New  York: 

Secretary’s  Office,  )  State  of  New  York. 

Department  of  Common  Schools,  i  Albany,  Oct.  14 th,  1845. 

Messrs.  Lea  4-  Blanchard : 

Gentlemen: — I  have  examined  the  copy  of  “White’s  Universal  History,”  which  you  were  so 
obliging  as  to  send  me,  and  cheerfully  and  fully  concur  in  the  commendations  of  its  value,  as  a  com¬ 
prehensive  and  enlightened  survey  of  the  Ancient  and  Modern  World  which  many  of  the  most  com¬ 
petent  judges  have,  as  I  perceive,  already  bestowed  upon  it.  It  appears  to  me  to  be  admirably 
adapted  to  the  purposes  of  our  public  schools  ;  and  I  unhesitatingly  approve  of  its  introduction  into 
those  seminaries  of  elementary  instruction.  Very  respectfully,  your  obedient  servant, 

SAMUEL  S.  RANDALL, 
Deputy  Superintendent  Common  Schools . 

This  work  is  admirably  calculated  for  District  and  other  libraries :  an  edition  for  that  pnrpose 
without  questions  has  been  prepared,  done  up  in  strong  cloth. 


HERSCHELL’S  ASTRONOMY. 


A  TREATISE  ON  ASTRONOMY, 

BY  SIR  JOHN  F.  W.  HERSCHELL,  F.  R.  S.,  &c. 

WITH  NUMEROUS  PLATES  AND  WOOD-CUTS. 

A  NEW  EDITION,  WITH  A  PREFACE  AND  A  SERIES  OF  QUESTIONS, 

BY  S.  O.  WALKER. 

In  one  volume,  12mo. 


LEA  AND  BLANCHARD’S  PUBLICATIONS. 


LAW  BOOKS. 


HILLIARD  ON  REAL  ESTATE. 

NOW  READY. 


THE  AMERICAN  LA W  OF  REAZa  PROPERTY. 

SECOND  EDITION,  REVISED,  CORRECTED,  AND  ENLARGED. 

BY  FRANCIS  HILLIARD, 

COUNSELLOR  AT  LAW. 

In  two  large  octavo  volumes,  beautifully  printed,  and  bound  in  best  law  sheep. 

This  book  is  designed  as  a  substitute  for  Cruise's  Digest,  occupying  the 
same  ground  in  American  law  which  that  work  has  long  covered  in  the 
English  law.  It  embraces  all  that  portion  of  the  English  Law  of  Real 
Estate  which  has  any  applicability  in  this  country;  and  at  the  same  time  it 
embodies  the  statutory  provisions  and  adjudged  cases  of  all  the  States  upon 
the  same  subject ;  thereby  constituting  a  complete  elementary  treatise  for 
American  students  and  practitioners.  The  plan  of  the  work  is  such  as  to 
render  it  equally  valuable  in  all  the  States,  embracing,  as  it  does,  the  pecu¬ 
liar  modifications  of  the  law  alike  in  Massachusetts  and  Missouri,  New 
York  and  Mississippi.  In  this  edition,  the  statutes  and  decisions  subse¬ 
quent  to  the  former  one,  which  are  very  numerous,  have  all  been  incorpo¬ 
rated,  thus  making  it  one-third  larger  than  the  original  work,  and  bringing 
the  view  of  the  law  upon  the  subject  treated  quite  down  to  the  present  time. 
The  book  is  recommended  in  the  highest  terms  by  distinguished  jurists  of 
different  States,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  subjoined  extracts. 

“  The  work  before  us  supplies  this  deficiency  in  a  highly  satisfactory  manner.  It  is  beyond  all 
question  the  best  work  of  the  kind  that  we  now  have,  and  although  we  doubt  whether  this  or  any 
other  work  will  be  likely  to  supplant  Cruise’s  Digest,  we  do  not  hesitate  to  say,  that  of  the  two, 
this  is  the  more  valuable  to  the  American  lawyer.  We  congratulate  the  author  upon  the  success¬ 
ful  accomplishment  of  the  arduous  task  he  undertook,  in  reducing  the  vast  body  of  the  American 
Law  of  Real  Property  to  ‘  portable  size,’  and  we  do  not  doubt  that  his  labours  will  be  duly  appre¬ 
ciated  by  the  profession.” — Law  Reporter,  Aug.,  1846. 

Judge  Story  says : — “I  think  the  work  a  very  valuable  addition  to  our  present  stock  of  juridical 
literature.  It  embraces  all  that  part  of  Mr.  Cruise’s  Digest  which  is  most  useful  to  American  law¬ 
yers.  But  its  higher  value  is,  that  it  presents  in  a  concise,  but  clear  and  exact  form,  the  substance 
of  American  Law  on  the  same  subject.  1  know  no  work  that  we  possess,  whose  practical  utility  is 
likely  to  he  so  extensively  felt."  “The  wonder  is,  that  the  author  has  been  able  to  bring  so  great  a 
mass  into  so  condensed  a  text,  at  once  comprehensive  and  lucid.” 

Chancellor  Kent  says  of  the  work  (Commentaries,  vol.  ii.,  p.  635,  note,  5th  edition) : — “  It  is  a  work 
of  great  labour  and  intrinsic  value.” 

Hon.  Rufus  Choate  says : — “  Mr.  Hilliard’s  work  has  been  for  three  or  four  years  m  use,  and  1 
think  that  Mr.  Justice  Story  and  Chancellor  Kent  express  the  general  opinion  of  the  Massachusetts 
Bar.” 

Professor  Greenleaf  says “  I  had  already  found  the  first  edition  a  very  convenient  book  of  refe¬ 
rence,  and  do  not  doubt,  from  the  appearance  of  the  second,  that  it  is  greatly  improved.” 

Professor  J.  H.  Townsend,  of  Yale  College,  says 

“  I  have  been  acquainted  for  several  years  with  the  first  edition  of  Mr.  Hilliard’s  Treatise,  and 
have  formed  a  very  favourable  opinion  of  it.  1  have  no  doubt  the  second  edition  will  be  found  even 
more  valuable  than  the  first, and  I  shall  be  happy  to  recommend  it  as  I  may  have  opportunity.  I 
know  of  no  other  work  on  the  subject  of  Real  Estate,  so  comprehensive  and  so  well  adapted  to  the 
state  of  the  law  in  this  country.” 


LEA  AND  BLANCHARD’S  PUBLICATIONS. 


LAW  BOOKS. 


ADDISON  ON  CONTRACTS. 

TREATISE  OZv  THE  LAW  OF  CONTRACTS  A2TD 
RIGHTS  AND  LIARIEITIES  EX  CONTRACTU. 

BY  C.  G.  ADDISON,  ESQ., 

Of  the  Inner  Temple,  Barrister  at  Law. 

In  one  volume,  octavo,  handsomely  bound  in  law  sheep. 

In  this  treatise  upon  the  most  constantly  and  frequently  administered 
branch  of  law,  the  author  has  collected,  arranged  and  developed  in  an  intel¬ 
ligible  and  popular  form,  the  rules  and  principles  of  the  Law  of  Contracts, 
and  has  supported,  illustrated  or  exemplified  them  by  references  to  nearly 
four  thousand  adjudged  cases.  It  comprises  the  Rights  and  Liabilities  of 
Seller  and  Purchaser ;  Landlord  and  Tenant ;  Letter  and  Hirer  of  Chattels  ; 
Borrower  and  Lender;  Workman  and  Employer;  Master,  Servant  and  Ap¬ 
prentice  ;  Principal,  Agent  and  Surety;  Husband  and  Wife;  Partners; 
Joint  Stock  Companies  ;  Corporations;  Trustees;  Provisional  Committee¬ 
men  ;  Shipowners  ;  Shipmasters ;  Innkeepers  ;  Carriers  ;  Infants  ;  Luna¬ 
tics,  &c. 

WHEATON’S  INTERNATIONAL  LAW. 


ELEMENTS  OF  INTERNATIONAL  LAW. 

BY  HENRY  WHEATON,  LL.D., 

Minister  of  the  United  States  at  the  Court  of  Russia,  &e. 

THIRD  EDITION,  REVISED  AND  CORRECTED. 

In  one  large  and  beautiful  octavo  volume  of  650  pages,  extra  cloth,  or  fine  law  sheep. 

“  Mr.  Wheaton’s  work  is  indispensable  to  every  diplomatist,  statesman  and  lawyer,  and  necessary 
indeed  to  all  public  men.  To  every  philosophic  and  liberal  mind,  the  study  must  be  an  attractive| 
and  in  the  hands  of  our  author  it  is  a  delightful  one.” — North  American. 

HILL  ON  TRUSTEES. 


A  PRACTICAL  TREATISE  ON  THE  LAW  RELATING  TO  TRUSTEES, 

THEIR  POWERS,  DUTIES,  PRIVILEGES  AND  LIABILITIES. 

BY  JAMES  HILL,  ESQ., 

Of  the  Inner  Temple,  Barrister  at  Law. 

EDITED  BY  FRANCIS  J.  TROUBAT, 

Of  the  Philadelphia  Bar. 

In  one  large  octavo  volume,  best  law  sheep,  raised  bands. 

“  The  editor  begs  leave  to  iterate  the  observation  made  by  the  author  that  the  work  is  intended 
principally  for  the  instruction  and  guidance  of  trustees.  That  single  feature  very  much  enhances 
its  practical  value." 

ON  THE  PRINCIPLES  OF  CRIMINAL  LAW. 

In  one  18mo.  volume,  paper,  price  25  cents. 

BEING  PART  10,  OF  “  SMALL  BOOKS  ON  GREAT  SUBJECTS.” 


r 


LEA  AND  BLANCHARD’S  PUBLICATIONS. 


LAW  BOOKS. 


SFE^OIS’S  RQTTXTIT  JUSISDIOTION. 


THE  EQUITABLE  JURISDICTION  OF  THE  COURT  OF  CHANCER?, 

COMPRISING- 

ITS  RISE,  PROGRESS  AND  FINAL  ESTABLISHMENT. 

TO  WHICH  IS  PREFIXED,  WITH  A  VIEW  TO  THE  ELUCIDATION  OF  THE  MAIN  SUB¬ 
JECT,  A  CONCISE  ACCOUNT  OF  THE  LEADING  DOCTRINES  OF  THE  COMMON 
LAW,  AND  OF  THE  COURSE  OF  PROCEDURE  IN  THE  COURTS  OF  COM¬ 
MON  LAW,  WITH  REGARD  TO  CIVIL  RIGHTS:  WITH  AN  ATTEMPT 
TO  TRACE  THEM  TO  THEIR  SOURCES ;  AND  IN  WHICH 
THE  VARIOUS  ALTERATIONS  MADE  BY  THE 
LEGISLATURE  DOWN  TO  THE  PRESENT 
DAY  ARE  NOTICED. 

BY  GEORGE  SPENCE,  ESQ., 

One  of  her  Majesty’s  Counsel. 

IN  TWO  OCTAVO  VOLUMES. 

Volume  I.,  embracing  the  Principles,  is  now  ready.  Volume  II.  is  rapidly  preparing  and  will 
appear  early  in  1848.  It  is  based  upon  the  work  of  Mr.  Maddock,  brought  down  to  the  present 
time,  and  embracing  so  much  of  the  practice  as  counsel  are  called  on  to  advise  upon. 


A  ItfEW  LA W  DXCTIOITARIT, 

CONTAINING  EXPLANATIONS  OF  SUCH  TECHNICAL  TERMS  AND  PHRASES  AS  OCCUR 
IN  THE  WORKS  OF  LEGAL  AUTHORS,  IN  THE  PRACTICE  OF  THE  COURTS. 

AND  IN  THE  PARLIAMENTARY  PROCEEDINGS  OF  THE  HOUSE  OF  LORDS 
AND  COMMONS,  TO  WHICH  IS  ADDED,  AN  OUTLINE  OF  AN 
ACTION  AT  LAW  AND  OF  A  SUIT  IN  EQUITY. 

BY  HENRY  J  A  IVIES  HOLT  HOUSE,  ESQ., 

Of  the  Inner  Temple,  Special  Pleader. 

EDITED  FROM  THE  SECOND  AND  ENLARGED  LONDON  EDITION, 

WITH  NUMEROUS  ADDITIONS, 

BY  HENRY  PENING-TON, 

Of  the  Philadelphia  Bar. 

In  one  large  volume,  royal  12mo.,  of  about  500  pages,  double  columns,  handsomely 

bound  in  law  sheep. 

“  This  is  a  considerable  improvement  upon  the  former  editions,  being  bound  with  the  usual  law 
binding,  and  the  general  execution  admirable — the  paper  excellent,  and  the  printing  clear  and 
beautiful.  Its  peculiar  usefulness,  however,  consists  in  the  valuable  additions  above  referred  to, 
being  intelligible  and  well  devised  definitions  of  such  phrases  and  technicalities  as  are  peculiar  to 
the  practice  in  the  Courts  of  this  country. — While,  therefore,  we  recommend  it  especially  to  the 
students  of  law,  as  a  safe  guide  through  the  intricacies  of  their  study,  it  will  nevertheless  be  found 
a  valuable  acquisition  to  the  library  of  the  practitioner  himself.” — Alex.  Gazette. 

“  This  work  is  intended  rather  for  the  general  student,  than  as  a  substitute  for  many  abridgments, 
digests,  and  dictionaries  in  use  by  the  professional  man.  Its  object  principally  is  to  impress  accu¬ 
rately  and  distinctly  upon  the  mind  rhe  meaning  of  the  technical  terms  of  the  law,  and  as  such 
can  hardly  fail  to  be  generally  useful.  There  is  much  curious  information  to  be  found  in  it  in  re¬ 
gard  to  the  peculiarities  of  the  ancient  Saxon  law.  The  additions  of  the  American  edition  give 
increased  value  to  the  work,  and  evince  much  accuracy  and  care.” — Pennsylvania  Law  Journal. 


TAYLOS’S  MEDICAL  JUBISFItUDENCE, 

m _ _  * 

A  PRACTICAL  TREATISE  ON  MEDICAL  JURISPRUDENCE. 

BY  ALFRED  S.  TAYLOR, 

Lecturer  on  Medical  Jurisprudence  and  Chemistry  at  Guy’s  Hospital,  London. 

With  numerous  Notes  and  Additions,  and  References  to  American  Law, 

BY  R.  E.  GRIFFITH,  M.D. 

In  one  volume,  octavo,  neat  law  sheep. 


TATYLOR’S  MANUAL  OF  TOXICOLOGY. 

IN  ONE  NEAT  OCTAVO  VOLUME. 

A  NEW  WORK,  NOW  READY. 

TRAILL’S 

OUTLINES  OF  A  COURSE  OF  LECTURES  ON  MEDICAL  JURISPRUDENCE. 

IN  ONE  SMALL  OCTAVO  VOLUME. 


LEA  AND  BLANCHARD’S  PUBLICATIONS* 


LAW  BOOKS. 


E  A  S  T’S  REPORTS. 


HE  PORTS  OF  CASES 

ADJUDGED  AND  DETERMINED  IN  THE  COURT 

OF  KING’S  BENCH. 

WITH  TABLES  OF  THE  NAMES  OF  THE  CASES  AND  PRINCIPAL  M  ATTERS. 

BY  EDWARD  HYDE  EAST,  ESQ., 

Of  the  Inner  Temple,  Barrister  at  Law. 

EDITED,  WITH  NOTES  AND  REFERENCES, 

BY  G-.  M.  WHARTON,  ESQ., 

Of  the  Philadelphia  Bar. 

In  eight  large  royal  octavo  volumes,  bound  in  best  law  sheep,  raised  bands  and  double 
titles.  Price,  to  subscribers,  only  twenty-five  dollars. 

In  this  edition  of  East,  the  sixteen  volumes  of  the  former  edition  have 
been  compressed  into  eight — two  volumes  in  one  throughout — but  nothing 
has  been  omitted ;  the  entire  work  will  be  found,  with  the  notes  of  Mr. 
Wharton  added  to  those  of  Mr.  Day.  The  great  reduction  of  price,  (from 
$72,  the  price  of  the  last  edition,  to  $25,  the  subscription  price  of  this,) 
together  with  the  improvement  in  appearance,  will,  it  is  trusted,  procure  for 
it  a  ready  sale. 

A  NEW  WORK  ON  COURTS-MARTIAL. 


A  TREATISE  ON  AMERICAN  MILITARY  LAW, 

AND  THE 

PRACTICE  OF  COURTS. MARTIAL, 

WITH  SUGGESTIONS  FOR  THEIR  IMPROVEMENT. 

BY  JOHN  O’BRIEN, 

lieutenant  united  states  artillery. 

In  one  octavo  volume,  extra  cloth,  or  law  sheep. 

“  This  work  stands  relatively  to  American  Military  Law  in  the  same  position  that  Blackstone’s 
Commentaries  stand  to  Common  Law.” —  U.  S.  Gazette. 

CAMPBELL’S  LORD  CHANCELLORS. 


LIVES  OF  THE  LORD  CHANCELLORS  AND  KEEPERS  OF 
THE  GREAT  SEAL  OF  ENGLAND, 

FROM  THE  EARLIEST  TIMES  TO  THE  REIGN  OF  KING  GEORGE  IV., 

BY  JOHN  LORD  CAMPBELL,  A.M.,  F.R.S.E. 

FIRST  SERIES, 

In  three  neat  demy  octavo  volumes,  extra  cloth, 

BRINGING  THE  WORK  TO  THE  TIME  OF  JAMES  II.,  JUST  ISSUED. 

PREPARING, 

SECOND  SERIES, 

In  four  volumes,  to  match, 

CONTAINING  FROM  JAMES  1L  TO  GEORGE  IV. 


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